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  1. Version 2022.03.16

    273 downloads

    LRS Screw Terminal Cover Designed to cover the screw terminals for several LRS style PSUs. Other Meanwell PSU may work. Feel free to ping me in discord to add to the compatibility list below. Pro tip: These are very snug to the point it will bow. This is intentional as it was designed to take some effort to take off. Printing Default voron settings No supports needed Compatibility List LRS-50 LRS-200
  2. Version 1.1.0

    2,431 downloads

    This toolhead scales down the body of the Stealthburner to a size which fits into a V0.1. Fully assembled it weighs about 120 grams less than the original. It is designed around the Bondtech LGX Lite extruder and has versions for the Phaetus Dragonfly, Dragon and Rapido HF hotends as well as a version to fit the Revo Voron hotend. It incorporates a status LED as well as two for print visibility. 22 Nov 2022: I have added new versions that should fit the Mosquito hotend. I cannot verify the fitment so if there are any issues please leave a comment. It uses a pair of 4010 blowers which I found to produce slightly more airflow than a 5015 blower while being notably less noisy and drawing less current. The depth of these fans do limit Y travel by 3mm on a V0.1 while the door is closed and tophat is on. The width of the main body at its base is also a very tight fit at the extremes of X travel. The shroud fits a 3007 hotend fan. The part cooling ducts of the original file act as a simple air dump similar to the mini-Afterburner. The 'alt_ducts' version is based on the Stealthburner ducts and provides a more restrictive but targeted airflow. This seems to give better cooling but I have not done any meaningful testing yet. This LGX Lite mini-stlb fits well in a V2.4 or Trident as the motor doesn't interfere with the path of the cable chain. There is a seperate 'strain_relief' stl for use in the V0.1. I have included a magnet mount and additional shroud .stl files to make this compatible with the ZeroClick mod. The included Blender file shows the entire assembly complete with screws and should answer most basic questions. Note on MGN-9 installation: The default 2mm x 10 plastic threading screw is too long for mounting the x-axis endstop. An M2 x 8 does the job fine. For mounting to the linear carriage use four M3 x 6 flat-head screws. Note: The MGN carriage shown is an MGN-9H, not the shorter MGN-9C used in the V0.1 mod. Preparation I recommend test fitting the extruder, LGX_lite_adapter_plate, PTFE tube and hotend into the shroud before running any wires to ensure that the PTFE tube length is correct and everything fits. It helps to chamfer the edge of the tube with a sharp blade so that it doesn't snag in the hotend. All three fans will need the wire retention piece clipped so the wires fit into the shroud channels easier. Use a small file to smooth out the break-off edges of the LED PCB and make sure the LED pockets are clear of 'droopy bits' Assembly Instructions After pressing the status LED diffuser into place, install the right part-cooling fan first by feeding the wires through the small hole at the bottom. Then feed the wires for the status LED and hotend fan through before starting to push the LED carrier into position. Carefully push the status LED carrier as far as it will go and then carefully press the fan into position while making sure not to pinch the part-cooling fan wires. Press the remaining LEDs into their slots. (I measure out 35mm of wire to connect these LEDs together) Here is another view also showing how the hotend fan wires fit through the hole on the side of the status LED carrier. Insert the second part-cooling fan and splice the wires together with the first fan. Install the hotend with at least two M2.5x6 screws (M3x6 for the Revo Voron). The heater cartridge should be installed away from the LEDs to avoid overheating them. Pre-assemble the extruder pieces before installing into the shroud. Use M3x30 screws to attach motor_bridge. Install the extruder with an M3x6 BHCS on the back and then an M3x12 from below. Ensure the cables are routed as flat to the shroud as possible and secure them with zip ties. Install the strain_relief or cable_chain_mount with two M3x8 screws and the cable_door with another M3x8 screw. Close the cable door with an M3x6 screw. Happy Printing!
  3. Version 2021.12.07

    291 downloads

    Angry CAM USB Please find my USB Camera Mod based on Waveshare OV5648 5MP USB Camera Module (A), which allows mounting to rear gantry or other position on a frame profile. Printing Printing succesful with standard VORON settings. Distance between mounts and camera housing set to 0.3 mm in *.stl file, which allows printing of mounts and housing in one print. Use the following two *.stl files for realization in one print: Camera_Housing Mounts.stl Rear_Cover.stl Additional Material Bill of Material: 1x Waveshare OV5648 5 MP Camera Module (A), incl. USB-A to JST SH PCB connector cable 2x M3x16 SHCS screws 2x M3 T-Nut for 2020 frame profile 1x Camera Housing Mounts and Rear Cover from the printing source of your trust. Optional/Required for frame sizes
  4. Version 1.1.5

    4,386 downloads

    This toolhead scales down the body of the Stealthburner to a size which fits into a V0.1. Fully assembled it weighs about 110 grams less than the original. It is designed around the Orbiter 2.0 extruder and has versions for the Phaetus Dragonfly, Dragon and Rapido HF hotends as well as a version to fit the Revo Voron hotend. It incorporates a status LED as well as two for print visibility. 22 Nov 2022: I have added new versions that should fit the Mosquito hotend. I cannot verify the fitment so if there are any issues please leave a comment. It uses a pair of 4010 blowers which I found to produce slightly more airflow than a 5015 blower while being notably less noisy and drawing less current. The depth of these fans do limit Y travel by 3mm on a V0.1 while the door is closed and tophat is on. The width of the main body at its base is also a very tight fit at the extremes of X travel. The part cooling ducts of the original file act as a simple air dump similar to the mini-Afterburner. The 'alt_ducts' version is based on the Stealthburner ducts and provides a more restrictive but targeted airflow. This seems to give better cooling but I have not done any meaningful testing yet. The 'minimal' version does not need the 'motor_bridge' or 'filament_lever' and gives finger access to the latch of the Orbiter 2.0. This Orbiter 2.0 m-stlb is a better fit than the Orbiter 1.5 m-stlb in a V2.4 or Trident as the motor no longer interferes with the path of the cable chain. There is a seperate 'strain_relief' stl for use in the V0.1. The included Blender file shows the entire assembly complete with screws and should answer most basic questions. Note on MGN-9 installation: The default 2mm x 10 plastic threading screw is too long for mounting the x-axis endstop. An M2 x 8 does the job fine. For mounting to the linear carriage use four M3 x 6 flat-head screws. Note: The MGN carriage shown is an MGN-9H, not the shorter MGN-9C used in the V0.1 mod. Assembly Instructions After pressing the status LED diffuser into place, install the right part-cooling fan first by feeding the wires through the small hole at the bottom. Then feed the wires for the status LED and hotend fan through before starting to push the LED carrier into position. Carefully push the status LED carrier as far as it will go and then carefully press the fan into position while making sure not to pinch the part-cooling fan wires. Press the remaining LEDs into their slots. (I measure out 35mm of wire to connect these LEDs together) Here is another view also showing where the hotend fan wires fit. Insert the second part-cooling fan and splice the wires together with the first fan. Install the hotend with at least two M2.5x6 screws. The heater cartridge should be installed away from the LEDs to avoid overheating them. (Don't forget the PTFE tube) Pre-assemble the extruder pieces before installing into the shroud. Use two M3x8 BHCS to install the Orbiter 2.0 extruder. It helps to have both screws in the Orbiter before putting it in place. Start the screw by the latch and then the blind screw should be easier to align. Gather all of the wires together with a zip-tie next to the base of the Orbiter latch and then use another zip-tie to secure the wires to the motor-bridge. Leave a little slack in the extruder wires. Install the strain_relief or cable_chain_mount with two M3x6/8 screws and the cable_door with a M3x10/12 screw. Close the cable door with a M3x6 screw and screw in the extruder tensioning thumb screw. Happy Printing!
  5. Version 2022.10.13

    4 downloads

    Bigtreetech Manta M8P Din Mounting Brackets Designed to mount the Bigtreetech Manta M8P Controller Board. Based on the Voron Octopus Mounting Brackets Printing Standard Voron part printing guidelines to follow: 0.4 nozzle, 0.2 layer height, etc. Assembly BOM: Size Qty M3x8 4 M2 Self-tapping Screw 2 PCB Din Clip 2
  6. Version 2022.11.18

    24 downloads

    Stealthburner Rapido UHF A mod that stretches the Stealthburner Front and Rapido Toolhead Front for use with a Rapido UHF configuration. It moves the lighting and cooling to Stealthburner stock locations relative to new nozzle location. Designed from SB RC1 using this version. No additional parts required. Assembly is as per Voron Stealthburner manual. You may need to increase the length of one of the LED wire legs.
  7. Version 2022.11.18

    18 downloads

    Guide for an umbilical with top feed, no cable gland required I added a toolhead board to my Galileo extruder, and the reduced wire-count suggests to move to an umbilical instead of an energy chain. It has been thoroughly tested with my Galileo and should work with Clockwork 1/2 or any extruder that offers the common anchor point for a 2- or 3-hole drag chain. This mount guides a sleeved wire bundle. My own umbilical enters the chamber at the top, through the exhaust opening, and is supported by a gallows. What I needed and designed, is the matching steady mount on the extruder end. This has no hardware requirements. Use your old fasteners to attach the guide to the anchor, mine are M3x8. I put the wires into a standard polyethylene sleeve to protect them. For the length that runs down to the CAN-board, I used a heat-shrink, but that's general caution, not required for the mount. The key gets pushed in from the top to steady the umbilical in the guide. One end of the key is a bit thinner to allow easy insertion. If the cable is still too loose with the key, you can zip-tie it to the key, I added slots for that. Caution: When you lock the umbilical with the key, make sure the length towards the CAN-board has a bit of slack. You don't want hard kinks in the cable! Total perspective: Front view: Rear view: Side view:
  8. Version 2022.10.13

    4 downloads

    Zodiac BMO Stealthburner Toolhead A modified toolhead for use with the Zodiac BMO Hotend and compatible with RC1 of Stealthburner. It was created from the original RC1 Stealthburner Phaetus BMO Toolhead files. If changes after RC1 of Stealthburner make this mod incompatible, I will provide updated files based on the official Stealthburner CAD files. The official Zodiac3D CAD Model of their BMO Hotend was used for reference. Images Notes For optimal fit it is very important that your printer's dimensional accuracy is nearly perfect. Especially Pressure Advance has to be tuned right. Even then it is still a very tight fit, when putting in the hotend. That ensures that it cannot twist or wiggle. One handed nozzle changes should be possible, but are generally not recommended. The bowden tube length from top of the toolhead to the heatbreak of the hotend is around 31.2mm. Take that into account when calculating the total bowden length. (E.g. Clockwork2 needs 11mm above the toolhead, so that accumulates to a total bowden length of 42.2mm, when using Clockwork2.) Test prints were made with standard ABS, ABS and ASA Carbon.
  9. Version 2022.11.09

    26 downloads

    Stealthburner Clockwork2 Toolhead for HF Crazy Mozzie This is a a toolhead mount for the HF Crazy Mozzie (or other Mosquito clones), compatible with Stealthburner RC1 and Clockwork 2. Design source. The airflow pattern is designed and tested for the high-flow version. Here it is shown with the regular version: In action:
  10. Version 2021.12.07

    2,119 downloads

    Printable quick release latch for panels on 2020 extrusion This is originally inspired by a youtube video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6p7M18oPn3k Another user is creating cad and variants - https://github.com/v6cl/My-Voron2.4-Customs/tree/main/Panel_Locker So why did you do it? I wanted a variant with filament hinges I found it didn't put quite enough pressure on the panel and my attempts to moodify the cad failed Decided the best way to understand it was to design it Wanted adjustable
  11. Version 1.1.4

    2,012 downloads

    This toolhead scales down the body of the Stealthburner to a size which fits into a V0.1. Fully assembled it weighs about 80 grams less than the original. It is designed around the Orbiter 1.5 extruder and has versions for the Phaetus Dragonfly, Dragon and Rapido HF hotends as well as a version to fit the Revo Voron hotend. It incorporates a status LED as well as two for print visibility. 22 Nov 2022: I have added new versions that should fit the Mosquito hotend. I cannot verify the fitment so if there are any issues please leave a comment. It uses a pair of 4010 blowers which I found to produce slightly more airflow than a 5015 blower while being notably less noisy and drawing less current. The depth of these fans do limit Y travel by 3mm on a V0.1 while the door is closed and tophat is on. The width of the main body at its base is also a very tight fit at the extremes of X travel. I have raised my tophat by 20mm which gives the cabling and filament tube plenty of room to breathe. I have also installed this on my Trident. The included files do not address cable management on a Trident or V2.4 but do provide mounting to the MGN12 carriage. The cable chain on a Trident or V2.4 would have to be moved back at least 5mm to clear the extruder stepper motor. The part cooling ducts of the original file act as a simple air dump similar to the mini-Afterburner. The 'alt_ducts' version is based on the Stealthburner ducts and provides a more restrictive but targeted airflow. This seems to give better cooling but I have not done any meaningful testing yet. The included Blender file shows the entire assembly complete with screws and should answer most basic questions. Note on MGN-9 installation: The default 2mm x 10 plastic threading screw is too long for mounting the x-axis endstop. An M2 x 8 does the job fine. For mounting to the linear carriage use four M3 x 6 flat-head screws. Rapido HF Note: The MGN carriage shown is an MGN-9H, not the shorter MGN-9C used in the V0.1 mod. Assembly Instructions After pressing the status LED diffuser into place, install the right part-cooling fan first by feeding the wires through the small hole at the bottom. Then feed the wires for the status LED and hotend fan through before starting to push the LED carrier into position. Carefully push the status LED carrier as far as it will go and then carefully press the fan into position while making sure not to pinch the part-cooling fan wires. Press the remaining LEDs into their slots. (I measure out 35mm of wire to connect these LEDs together) Here is another view also showing where the hotend fan wires fit. Insert the second part-cooling fan and splice the wires together with the first fan. Install the hotend with at least two M2.5x6 screws. The heater cartridge should be installed away from the LEDs to avoid overheating them. Gather the wires together and secure them with the first zip-tie. (it helps to insert a snipped zip-tie through the the hole and yank it through with pliers to remove printing artifacts from inside of the channels) Loop the wire bundle back around and add in the LED and hotend fan wires. Use two more zip-ties to secure everything in place. ENSURE to leave room for the extruder by lifting the loop of wires up and out of the way as shown. More space is much better than not enough. (Don't forget the PTFE tube) Pre-assemble the extruder pieces before installing into the shroud. Use two M3x8 BHCS to install the Orbiter 1.5 extruder. It helps to have both screws in the Orbiter before putting it in place. Start the screw by the latch and then the blind screw should be easier to align. Gather all of the wires together and then use a zip-tie to secure them to the motor-bridge. Leave a little slack in the extruder wires. Install the strain_relief with two M3x6/8 screws and the cable_door with a M3x10/12 screw. Close the cable door with a M3x6 screw and screw in the extruder tensioning thumb screw. Happy Printing!
  12. Version 1.0.0

    13 downloads

    EBB36 mount for Orbiter extruder Amended version of:
  13. So this is not my first Voron but it is my first published diary so bear with me. My previous builds (1.5 -> 1.6 and V0) were all self sourced which gives choice but can be very long winded and time consuming, so this time after much reading around I plmped for the LDO Kit in it's full 350mm size. There was a wait while the boat slowly chugged around but here is some of what arrived: Amongst the stickers and card with URL links is an engraved metal stick on badge with what I assume is a unique serial number - neat! Everything came extremely well packed and many boxes within boxes - all clearly labelled.
  14. Version 2022.02.23

    514 downloads

    Voron 2.4 GE5C Z joint BOM Screws Size Qty M3x12 4 M3x16 or M3x20 SHCS 16 M5x20 4 Ge5C Bearing 4 M5x1mm spacer 4 If using Halleffect 6x3 magnet 1 First just insert GE5C bearing , it should just pop in Now if you are using the
  15. Hey all, I finished my printer a few weeks ago and just been fine tuning since. I have the afterburner printhead, Euclid probe, nozzle cleaner and auto_Z functions. My problem is everytime I finish a print that is taller than 30mm the print gets smashed by the print head. So when the print finishes the print head moves to 30mm above the bed surface then moves to home X,Y,Z. I cannot find the command causing this so I can change it. On print completion, I just need the print head to move up a little then home all regardless of the height of the print head. PLEASE HELP!
  16. Version 2021.04.03

    11,645 downloads

    These hinges allow for 270 degrees of motion, from closed 0° to 270° full open parallel with the side panels. This was developed out of an effort of running into tolerance issues with the spec hinges not allowing much room if the two panel doors are used and are slightly cut larger by only 1 mm or so. I ran into issues closing and the doors hitting and needed something that allowed more horizontal movement. So it was decided to figure a way to mount on the side of the printer. After some searching, printing, trial & error, I came to what you see below. 270 degrees wasn't the initial intention but figured if they are going to be mounted to the side, might as well take advantage of the extra flexibility. During development and testing of these I struggled with tape being sufficient with my first version of these. So went back and designed these to use hardware and remove tape from the equation. Hardware mount was heavily influenced by Randell other door hinge mod that uses hardware. The handles in this mod are a remixed version of Randell's to adjust for the altered latch developed for this setup. The latch in the mod gives as much room as possible vertically if panels are slightly too tall. Note: Un-tested but the holes should line up with Randell's hardware for the hinges if you are looking to swap for more swivel. As you can see this setup allows vertical and horizontal freedom if your panels are cut too large. BOM Hinge Hardware M3 x 35 mm SHCS [x4] M3 x 8 mm SHCS [x4] Side Mount M3 x 8 mm BHCS [x8] Backplate. SHCS can also be used here. And if you want a flush look 8 mm FHCS M3 Threaded Insert [x8] M3 T-nuts [x4] hammerhead or spring ball, your choice Latch 3 mm x 6 mm magnets [x4] M3 x 6 mm SHCS [x2] BHCS screws work better here if you have them M3 T-nuts [x2] hammerhead or spring ball, your choice Handles 3 mm x 6 mm magnets [x4] M3 x 6 mm BHCS [x8] M3 Threaded Insert [x8] Printing Use the default recommended for Voron parts. Can be done in PLA but I have not tested this. If having issues printing side mounts you may need to add a brim to those and trim before installation Layer Height : 0.2 mm Extrusion Width : 0.4 mm Infill : 40 % Walls : 4 Solid Top/Bottom : 5 There is a left (a) and right (b), you will need to print 2 for each side. There are 2 versions of each of the hinge faces if you don't want a Voron logo or want to mix and match. Multiple depths are also provided. Should you need a specific depth and no access to Fusion, feel free to reach out to me on discord chrisrgonzales#0731 The 4 mm is typical 3 mm panel and 1 mm foam , and 6 mm files are for 3 mm panel and 3 mm foam. You will need to print 4 of the side mounts, they are not side specific. Assembly These are designed to have a tight tolerance, so the 35 mm screw can be screwed into the lower portion of the face hinge, and still have some play without wiggle. You will likely have to thread it all the way down then play with the hinge and pivot it a couple of times to work it in before attaching. Do not over tighten the screw as it will bind on the upper portion. If you feel it binding, back the screw off just a lil bit. When installing back plates to hinges to protect panel from cracking be careful not to screw down too much as insert depth is shallow as you may risk of pushing through. The backplates have a chamfer for more recessed look, but can be flipped if you have longer hardware. Take it slow when installing heat inserts as it's very easy to push them through and cause deformation on the face of the hinge. Set temp on iron lower than used on most other heat inserted parts as this gives you more time not to press through. Also you may have to use the side of your iron's tip as not to puncture all the way. For placement of drilling, you can install the hinges in place, and tape or use panel clips from sides temporarily to hold front doors and tape outline of hinge. Then remove the panel and hinge, place the hinge where the tape outline is, mark the hole and drill. CAD Files The CAD files are parametric! When opened in Fusion 360, editing the thickness parameter will change the spacing and geometry to allow the hinge full 270 articulation. Enter in thickness of your panel and foam, I would recommend accounting for the compression in your foam. Example 3 mm panel with 3 mm foam, typical 6 mm would be entered, but possible that 5.8 mm might be a better choice to give some compression for a seal. If you are unsure, printing a single bracket and testing fitment and offset would be ideal. If you would like to use this with tape only you may adjust the faceThickness parameter to be thinner but wouldn't suggest going smaller than 3 mm. You will also need to remove or extrude flush the holes for the brass inserts. Also the faceWidth parameter may be adjusted to be smaller width. Would not go lower than 27 mm for this parameter. The logo can be removed if needed. If using Fusion 360 with history, step back two actions and logo will be removed. Otherwise removal of chamfer and extrude flush will be needed. thickness : panel + foam depth in mm (default 4 mm) faceThickness : depth of the face portion of hinge not including panel + foam (default 5 mm) FacePlate_width : width of facing hinge from edge of extrusion to the opposite edge. Not actual width of hinge default (34.9 mm) Taped versions use 27mm. See image below. Questions / Suggestions If you have any questions or suggestions feel free to contact me on Discord chrisrgonzales#0731
  17. Version 2022.08.16

    193 downloads

    Tool free tensioner Name and specification Quantity SHCS M5x20 4 M4*0.7 Square nut 4 HHCS M4x16 4 D4x7x1(4x8x1)Flat washer 4 M5 Hex Nuts with Lock 4 bracket 2 tensioner 2 bracket image 2 tensioner image 2 wheel 4 PART PRINTING GUIDELINES MATERIAL ABS LAYER HEIGHT Recommended: 0.2mm EXTRUSION WIDTH Recommended: Forced 0.4mm INFILL TYPE Grid Gyroid Honeycomb Triangle Cubic SOLID TOP/BOTTOM LAYERS Recommended: 5 WALL COUNT Recommended: 4 INFILL PERCENTAGE Recommended: ≥60%
  18. I have removed the Inductive probe and installed a Euclid probe. I downloaded Euclid V3 example from Github. Using Fluidd interface I uploaded euclid.cfg I then entered all the parameters required. I also updated my printer.cfg file. I have followed a detailed video from Kapman's Basement Workshop. I have checked the syntax several times. If anyone can suggest something I would be grateful. I have added the Euclid.cfg and Config.cfg as attachments. euclid.cfg printer (3).cfg
  19. Version 1.0.0

    294 downloads

    This is a two piece LED strip mount. It accommodates 7mm-8mm LED strips and mounts them to 2020 extrusion at a fixed 45 degree angle. BOM: Printed Male Mount Printed Male Mount - 1 Printed Female Mount - 1 3mm Socket Head Bolt - 4 3mm T-nut - 4 Strip of 7mm-8mm led lights Notes: This was specifically designed to fit my 350x350 build. It would likely need to be scaled down to fit smaller v2.4s I'll add a better wiring photo once I get it cleaned up
  20. Version 2021.09.12

    361 downloads

    Magnetic Panels This mod allows for the easy removal of the panels on a V2, ideal for switching between ABS and PLA printing. This mod assumes a panel depth of 6mm, either from a 6mm panel or a 3mm panel 3mm foam tape. It will not hold the panels against the frame without this thickness. BOM (for top and side panels) Material Quantity 6x3 Magnets 72 M3x8 SHCS 24 M3 Roll In or Hammerhead T Nuts 24 VHB Tape To reduce the number of magnets required, it is possible to install just two or even one per printed part. This has not been tested and the hold strength unknown. For larger builds or less rigid panels there are also midspan clips which can be used for additional support. BOM (per midspan clip) Material Quantity 6x3 Magnets 4 M3x8 SHCS 1 M3 Roll In or Hammerhead T Nuts 1 VHB Tape Assembly Mount Assembly Pressfit the magnets into the housing. Use the M3x8 SHCS and T Nuts to secure mounts to the frame. It is easiest to install using the regular panel clips to hold the panel in position, this allows the mounts to be positioned with some clearance to the panel allowing smoother attachment of the system following installation. To make full use of this added convenience, fully complete installation of a single clip before repeating the procedure for the remainder on each panel. Cap Assembly Pressfit the magnets into the housing ensuring the poles are aligned between the mount and cap. Apply the triangular section of VHB tape and with the panel in position on the frame lower the magnet side into position before pressing the tape firmly against the panel. The panel can now be pulled straight off the frame for removal, before being replaced with as much ease. Repeat previous steps as required if fitting midspan clips.
  21. Version 2021.09.14

    160 downloads

    Picam corner mount About the only place I found to mount the picam with a view low down of the bed. This was inspired by the v0 design by xbst Hardware A single m3x8 bolt and t-nut A suitable length of picam ribbon cable
  22. Version 2021.10.03

    117 downloads

    ADXL345 GY-291/Adafruit Cable chain anchor mount WARNING: Dupont connectors can foul with your z-chain when homing, solder wires directly or ensure you have clearance. This is a mod for mounting the ADXL permanently. It moves your drag chain up by 5.5mm on the motor. From testing this mount eliminates the Z component when measuring the Y resonance. Check for clearance at the limits of movement Clearance cad check for Adafruit board. Hardware DO NOT USE dupont on the ADXL boards, ensure you have clearance when homing using JST XH connectors or solder wires directly ADXL345 GY-291 board (21mm by 16mm) ADXL345 GY-291 board (21mm by 16mm) M3x6 BHCS M3 nylon/Printed washer (optional) M3 Threaded Insert * 3 or 5 (IGUS or Generic) Adafruit ADXL345 board (1in by 0.8in) Adafruit ADXL345 board (1in by 0.8in) M2.5x6 BHCS (threads into plastic) M2.5 nylon/printed washer (optional) M3 Threaded Insert * 2 or 3 (IGUS or Generic) Ideas that didn't work Dupont connectors on the ADXL board are too tall and foul the drag chain when homing. Attempting to use the three motor mounts doesn't work. Using the top hole would interfere with the drag chain as it's closer to the motor than the bolt. Using the bottom hole fouls the drag chain when X approaches 0. Using M3x8 bolts on the board moves the board closer to the back risking fouling with JST-XH connectors - would probably be ok if soldering wires directly. Attempting to not move the drag chain mounting up the motor doesn't give clearance as X approaches 0 for the board, it's too close to the bottom of the motor. Flipping the drag chain mount so it's level with the top of the motor instead of moving it up just makes the radius of the drag chain tighter and more awkward to fit. Trying to use threaded inserts for the Adafruit board would make the edges too thin
  23. Version 1.0.0

    29 downloads

    Exhaust filter housing with the G1-8" thread on the side. Can also simply be printed mirrored to have the fitting on the opposite side
  24. Version 2022.03.16

    78 downloads

    Voron 2.4 AB Plug (Microfit 1x4) This mod is to add a plug to the gantry to connect the A
  25. Version 1.0.0

    17 downloads

    Since there was no file included in the official STLs for a 1.5mm IECGS power inlet, I created one using the same tolerances the official models (1mm, 1.2mm) use. Fits perfectly.
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