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This toolhead scales down the body of the Stealthburner to a size which fits into a V0.1/2. Fully assembled it weighs less than 260 grams. It is designed around the Mini Sherpa extruder and has versions for the Phaetus Dragonfly, Dragon and Rapido HF hotends as well as versions for the Mosquito, the Revo Voron and the Creality Spider Pro hotends. It incorporates a status LED as well as two for print visibility. I have also added stretched versions that should fit the Rapido UHF, Dragon UHF and the VolcoMosq hotends. The Dragon UHF and Rapido UHF hotends can fit in the same shroud. The UHF hotends will reduce Z travel by 8.5mm and the VolcoMosq by 3mm. I cannot verify the fitment so if there are any issues please leave a comment. There are now two hex pattern inlays based on the design by 3DP-MAMSIH and a tutorial on how to apply them to the shroud. The negative body feature of Prusa/Super Slicer can also be used to create a crop-top version of the shroud as described at the end of the tutorial. The shroud uses a pair of 4010 blowers which produce more airflow than a 5015 blower while also being notably less noisy and drawing less current. The depth of these fans do limit Y travel by 3mm on a V0.1 while the door is closed and tophat is on. The width of the main body at its base is also a very tight fit at the extremes of X travel. The shroud fits a 3010 hotend fan or a 3007 fan by using a clip-in adapter. This Mini Stealth - Mini Sherpa also fits well in a V2.4 or Trident and modified x-frame left and right pieces are included. There are cable chain mounts as well as strain_relief and umbilical_PCB mount for use in the V0.1. There are additional x-frame pieces that allow this Mini Stealth to be installed on a Switchwire. The nozzle is moved up by 3mm compared to the official Switchwire. The x-frame has geometry that allows a BL-Touch to fit locked between the two pieces. I have included a magnet mount and additional shroud .stl files to make this compatible with the ZeroClick mod. This toolhead also has versions that allow mounting a differential IR sensor. I have removed the mechanical Z endstop on my V0.1 and use the IR probe as an endstop and it has greatly simplified my homing sequence. There are additional x-frame pieces that allow mounting the Beacon3D probe, Euclid or Biqu MicroProbe for a V2.4, Trident or Switchwire. The included Blender file shows the entire assembly complete with screws and should answer most basic questions. Note on MGN-9 installation: The default 2mm x 10 plastic threading screw is too long for mounting the x-axis endstop. An M2 x 8 does the job fine. For mounting to the linear carriage use four M3 x 6 flat-head screws. Note: The MGN carriage shown is an MGN-9H, not the shorter MGN-9C used in the V0.1 mod. Preparation I recommend using a file to lightly remove any printing artifacts on the mating face of the shroud. Use a small file to smooth out the break-off edges of the LED PCB and make sure the LED pockets are clear of 'droopy bits' All three fans will need the wire retention piece clipped so the wires fit into the shroud channels easier. Differential IR Probe Installation The IR Probe needs to be screwed into place with two M2.5x8 FHCS before installing any of the fans, except with the VolcoMosq or UHF hotends where the probe needs to be glued on with CA glue. The Y-offset for this probe is 4mm in front of the nozzle and the X-offset is 32mm. I strongly recommend removing the 3-pin header and soldering wires directly to the probe PCB. When installed the wires will route out from the back of the IR probe cover to then join with the hotend and fan wires. I have included a cover to allow a connector at the probe but the wire management will be less than ideal.. Assembly Instructions After pressing the status LED diffuser into place, install the right part-cooling fan first by feeding the wires through the small hole at the bottom. Then feed the wires for the status LED and hotend fan through before starting to push the LED carrier into position. Carefully push the status LED carrier as far as it will go and press the fan into position while making sure not to pinch the part-cooling fan wires. Then press the remaining LEDs into their slots. (I measure out 35mm of wire to connect these LEDs together) Here is another view also showing how the hotend fan wires fit through the hole on the side of the status LED carrier. Insert the second part-cooling fan and splice the wires together with the first fan. Install the hotend with at least two M2.5x6 screws (M3x6 for the Revo Voron). The heater cartridge should be installed away from the LEDs to avoid overheating them. ( ** don't forget the PTFE tube ) Pre-assemble the extruder with your chosen cable management using M3x20 BHCS before installing into the shroud. Install the extruder with two M3x8 BHCS. Make sure that the LED and fan wires route around and exit behind the extruder. They can even fit in the gap below the extruder as shown in the picture. Gather the wires together with zip ties and secure them up to the cable management piece. Do your best to keep them tucked in close at the base of the extruder. I used a temporary zip tie at the top to keep the wires manageable until I installed the toolhead in the printer. The top of the cable door hooks under the back of the shroud and then you can use 2 - M3x6 BHCS to secure the cable door in place. Use two M3x40 BHCS to secure the toolhead to the x-carriage in a V0.1/V0.2. For installation in a Trident or V2.4 use two M3x50 BHCS. Happy Printing!

This toolhead scales down the body of the Stealthburner to a size which fits into a V0.1/V0.2. Fully assembled it weighs about 110 grams less than the original. It is designed around the Orbiter 2.0 extruder and has versions for the Phaetus Dragonfly, Dragon and Rapido HF hotends as well as versions for the Mosquito, the Revo Voron and the Creality Spider Pro hotends. It incorporates a status LED as well as two for print visibility. I have added new stretched versions that should fit the Rapido UHF, Dragon UHF and the VolcoMosq hotends. The Dragon UHF and Rapido UHF hotends can fit in the same shroud. The UHF hotends will reduce Z travel by 8.5mm and the VolcoMosq by 3mm. I cannot verify the fitment so if there are any issues please leave a comment. There are now two hex pattern inlays based on the design by 3DP-MAMSIH and a tutorial on how to apply them to the shroud. The negative body feature of Prusa/Super Slicer can also be used to create a crop-top version of the shroud as described at the end of the tutorial. The Mini Stealth uses a pair of 4010 blowers which produce more airflow than a 5015 blower while being notably less noisy and drawing less current. The depth of these fans do limit Y travel by 3mm on a V0.1 while the door is closed and tophat is on. The width of the main body at its base is also a very tight fit at the extremes of X travel. I have raised my tophat by 20mm which gives the cabling and filament tube plenty of room to breathe. The shroud fits a 3010 hotend fan or a 3007 fan by using a clip-in adapter. This Orbiter 2.0 Mini Stealth is a better fit than the Orbiter 1.5 Mini Stealth in a V2.4 or Trident as the motor no longer interferes with the path of the cable chain. There is a separate 'strain_relief' stl for use in the V0.1. There are also x-frame pieces that allow this Mini Stealth to be installed on a Switchwire. The nozzle is moved up by 3mm compared to the official Switchwire due to the stepper motor being so low on the Orbiter extruder but this also allows a BL-Touch to fit into the x-frame pieces. I have included a magnet mount and additional shroud .stl files to make this compatible with the ZeroClick mod. This toolhead also has versions that allow mounting a differential IR sensor. I have removed the mechanical Z endstop on my V0.1 and use the IR probe as an endstop and it has greatly simplified my homing sequence. There are additional x-frame pieces that allow mounting the Beacon3D probe, Euclid or Biqu MicroProbe for a V2.4, Trident or Switchwire. The included Blender file shows the entire assembly complete with screws and should answer most basic questions. Note on MGN-9 installation: The default 2mm x 10 plastic threading screw is too long for mounting the x-axis endstop. An M2 x 8 does the job fine. For mounting to the linear carriage use four M3 x 6 flat-head screws. Note: The MGN carriage shown is an MGN-9H, not the shorter MGN-9C used in the V0.1 mod. Preparation I recommend using a file to lightly remove any printing artifacts on the mating face of the shroud. Use a small file to smooth out the break-off edges of the LED PCB and make sure the LED pockets are clear of 'droopy bits' All three fans will need the wire retention piece clipped so the wires fit into the shroud channels easier. Differential IR Probe Installation The IR Probe needs to be screwed into place with two M2.5x8 FHCS before installing any of the fans, except with the VolcoMosq or UHF hotends where the probe needs to be glued on with CA glue. The Y-offset for this probe is 4mm in front of the nozzle and the X-offset is 32mm. I strongly recommend removing the 3-pin header and soldering wires directly to the probe PCB. When installed the wires will route out from the back of the IR probe cover to then join with the hotend and fan wires. I have included a cover to allow a connector at the probe but the wire management will be less than ideal.. Assembly Instructions After pressing the status LED diffuser into place, install the right part-cooling fan first by feeding the wires through the small hole at the bottom. Then feed the wires for the status LED and hotend fan through before starting to push the LED carrier into position. Carefully push the status LED carrier as far as it will go and press the fan into position while making sure not to pinch the part-cooling fan wires. Then press the remaining LEDs into their slots. (I measure out 35mm of wire to connect these LEDs together) Here is another view also showing where the hotend fan wires fit. Insert the second part-cooling fan and splice the wires together with the first fan. Install the hotend with at least two M2.5x6 screws (M3x6 for the Revo Voron). The heater cartridge should be installed away from the LEDs to avoid overheating them. (** don't forget the PTFE tube) Pre-assemble the extruder pieces before installing into the shroud. Use two M3x8 BHCS to install the Orbiter 2.0 extruder. It helps to have both screws in the Orbiter before putting it in place. Start the screw by the latch and then the blind screw should be easier to align. Gather all of the wires together with a zip-tie next to the base of the Orbiter latch and then use another zip-tie to secure the wires to the motor-bridge. Leave a little slack in the extruder wires. Install the strain_relief or cable_chain_mount with two M3x6/8 screws and the cable_door with a M3x10/12 screw. Close the cable door with a M3x6 BHCS and screw in the extruder tensioning thumb screw. Use two M3x40 BHCS to secure the toolhead to the x-carriage in a V0.1/V0.2. For installation in a Trident or V2.4 use two M3x50 BHCS. Happy Printing!

This toolhead scales down the body of the Stealthburner to a size which fits into a V0.1/V0.2. Fully assembled it weighs about 120 grams less than the original. It is designed around the Bondtech LGX Lite extruder and has versions for the Phaetus Dragonfly, Dragon and Rapido HF hotends as well as versions for the Mosquito, the Revo Voron and the Creality Spider Pro hotends. It incorporates a status LED as well as two for print visibility. I have added new stretched versions that should fit the Rapido UHF, Dragon UHF and the VolcoMosq hotends. The Dragon UHF and Rapido UHF hotends can fit in the same shroud. The UHF hotends will reduce Z travel by 8.5mm and the VolcoMosq by 3mm. I cannot verify the fitment so if there are any issues please leave a comment. There are now two hex pattern inlays based on the design by 3DP-MAMSIH and a tutorial on how to apply them to the shroud. The negative body feature of Prusa/Super Slicer can also be used to create a crop-top version of the shroud as described at the end of the tutorial. The shroud uses a pair of 4010 blowers which produce more airflow than a 5015 blower while also being notably less noisy and drawing less current. The depth of these fans do limit Y travel by 3mm on a V0.1 while the door is closed and tophat is on. The width of the main body at its base is also a very tight fit at the extremes of X travel. The shroud fits a 3010 hotend fan or a 3007 fan by using a clip-in adapter. The Mini Stealth LGX Lite fits well in a V2.4 or Trident and modified x-frame left and right pieces are included. There is a separate 'strain_relief' stl for use in the V0.1. There are also x-frame pieces that allow this Mini Stealth to be installed on a Switchwire. The nozzle is moved up by 3mm compared to the official Switchwire. The x-frame has geometry that allows a BL-Touch to fit locked between the two pieces. I have included a magnet mount and additional shroud .stl files to make this compatible with the ZeroClick mod. This toolhead also has versions that allow mounting a differential IR sensor. I have removed the mechanical Z endstop on my V0.1 and use the IR probe as an endstop and it has greatly simplified my homing sequence. There are additional x-frame pieces that allow mounting the Beacon3D probe, Euclid or Biqu MicroProbe for a V2.4, Trident or Switchwire. The included Blender file shows the entire assembly complete with screws and should answer most basic questions. Note on MGN-9 installation: The default 2mm x 10 plastic threading screw is too long for mounting the x-axis endstop. An M2 x 8 does the job fine. For mounting to the linear carriage use four M3 x 6 flat-head screws. Note: The MGN carriage shown is an MGN-9H, not the shorter MGN-9C used in the V0.1 mod. Preparation I recommend test fitting the extruder, LGX_lite_adapter_plate, PTFE tube and hotend into the shroud before running any wires to ensure that the PTFE tube length is correct and everything fits. It helps to chamfer the edge of the tube with a sharp blade so that it doesn't snag in the hotend. I is a good idea to use a file to lightly remove any printing artifacts on the mating face of the shroud. All three fans will need the wire retention piece clipped so the wires fit into the shroud channels easier. Use a small file to smooth out the break-off edges of the LED PCB and make sure the LED pockets are clear of 'droopy bits' Differential IR Probe Installation The IR Probe needs to be screwed into place with two M2.5x8 FHCS before installing any of the fans, except with the VolcoMosq or UHF hotends where the probe needs to be glued on with CA glue. The Y-offset for this probe is 4mm in front of the nozzle and the X-offset is 32mm. I strongly recommend removing the 3-pin header and soldering wires directly to the probe PCB. When installed the wires will route out from the back of the IR probe cover to then join with the hotend and fan wires. I have included a cover to allow a connector at the probe but the wire management will be less than ideal.. Assembly Instructions After pressing the status LED diffuser into place, install the right part-cooling fan first by feeding the wires through the small hole at the bottom. Then feed the wires for the status LED and hotend fan through before starting to push the LED carrier into position. Carefully push the status LED carrier as far as it will go and press the fan into position while making sure not to pinch the part-cooling fan wires. Then press the remaining LEDs into their slots. (I measure out 35mm of wire to connect these LEDs together) Here is another view also showing how the hotend fan wires fit through the hole on the side of the status LED carrier. Insert the second part-cooling fan and splice the wires together with the first fan. Install the hotend with at least two M2.5x6 screws (M3x6 for the Revo Voron). The heater cartridge should be installed away from the LEDs to avoid overheating them. ( ** don't forget the PTFE tube ) Pre-assemble the extruder pieces before installing into the shroud. Use M3x30 screws to attach motor_bridge. Install the extruder with an M3x6 BHCS on the back and then an M3x12 from below. Ensure the cables are routed as flat to the shroud as possible and secure them with zip ties. Install the strain_relief or cable_chain_mount with two M3x8 screws and the cable_door with another M3x8 screw. Close the cable door with an M3x6 screw. Use two M3x40 BHCS to secure the toolhead to the x-carriage in a V0.1/V0.2. For installation in a Trident or V2.4 use two M3x50 BHCS. Happy Printing!

Orbiter 2 Clockwork Module (beta) This Clockwork module allows the use of the Orbiter v2 Extruder in the Voron Afterburner. THIS IS A PRE-RELEASE - DO NOT DOWNLOAD UNLESS YOU ARE WILLING TO DEAL WITH POSSIBLE ISSUE OR TO GIVE FEEDBACK! The rear screws that hold the chain anchor on are m3x8, two of them. They use the Voron heat set inserts, m3 I was working with DoubleT on the PCB holder. Trying to build a universal tool version so we could use different holders.

I was having trouble getting my enclosure temperatures above 45C to achieve my optimum print settings. This is the solution I came up with to solve my enclosure temperature issues. I'm running a Fystec Spider v1.1, so your printer config would likely differ. I'm also using a Hartk v4.0 PCB that has an integrated chamber thermistor. I've included my settings for this as well, but you may need to change this up if you use a different thermistor for enclosure temperature readings. I hope this is helpful for someone. I couldn't find a lot of solutions out on the net that could get me up and going with a setup like this, so it was a lot of trial and error to get to this point. Let me know if you have any comments or suggestions that can help me make this thing better! How I set things up: I removed the fan from the PTC heater and inserted a 100K NTC thermistor into one of the bordering fins on the heater core. I then filled the remaining gap in the fin with thermal grease and reattached the fan. I added a thermal fuse to make sure the power would get cut if the temperatures get out of hand from a bad config or faulty piece of hardware. First I drilled a 1/8" hole next to the center ground pin, rivetted the fuse to the heater's core, and applied thermal grease between the fuse body and the heater core. I then moved the ground wire to run from the fuse rather than the tab. Once I wired this up, I ran the temperatures up past the fuse limits to verify things fail safely as expected. I then replaced the fuse after test failed as expected. I extended all of the wiring with solder connections to make sure it would be long enough reach each wire's intended destination, and capped each connection with heat shrink. I mounted the PTC heater to the printed PTC heater mount and ran the wires to the wiring compartment. I installed the Omron relay, and ran a 24v output from my controller to the relay's 5-24v input. I then routed 110v AC to the other end of the relay on the hot lead. I finished up the wiring by hooking up the 12v line for the heater fan and the heater thermistor to the controller board. (Note: my chamber thermistor was already installed on my toolhead's PCB) I updated my printer.cfg and ran a bunch of tests on the heater to make sure it was functioning properly. BOM: Electronics: - PTC Heater w/ Fan x1 - Item on Amazon - NTC 100k thermistor - Item on Amazon - 120C Thermal Fuse - Item on Amazon - Omron 5-24v Relay - Item on West3D Printed Parts: - Printed PTC Heater Mount x1 Miscellaneous: - M3x8mm SHCS x2 - M3 T-nut x2 - 18awg stranded wire ~2 meters - 22awg stranded wire ~2 meters - 1/8" Rivet x1 - Appropriate connectors for you controller board Changes to printer.cfg: ###################### ### Chamber Heater ### ###################### [heater_generic chamber_heater] heater_pin: PC8 sensor_type: Generic 3950 sensor_pin: PC2 control: watermark max_power: .5 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 110 [verify_heater chamber_heater] max_error: 120 check_gain_time: 120 hysteresis: 5 heating_gain: 2 ########################## ### Chamber Heater Fan ### ########################## [heater_fan chamber_heater_fan] pin: PB6 max_power: 1.0 heater: chamber_heater heater_temp: 40.0 # fan will turn off below this level ############################# ### Enclosure Temperature ### ############################# [thermistor chamber_thermistor] temperature1: 25 resistance1: 10000 beta: 3950 [temperature_sensor enclosure_temp] sensor_type: chamber_thermistor sensor_pin: PC1 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 80 Macro: You can run this and immediately start your print. The print wont actually start until the specified chamber temperatures are reached. [gcode_macro CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT] gcode: {% if params.MIN_TEMPERATURE and params.MAX_TEMPERATURE and params.MIN_TEMPERATURE|float > params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float %} {action_raise_error("Chamber Temp Wait: MIN_TEMPERATURE must be less than or equal to MAX_TEMPERATURE Use: - CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT MIN_TEMPERATURE=[0..80] - CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT MAX_TEMPERATURE=[0..80] - CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT MIN_TEMPERATURE=[0..80] MAX_TEMPERATURE=[0..80]")} {% elif params.MIN_TEMPERATURE and params.MIN_TEMPERATURE|float > -1 and params.MIN_TEMPERATURE|float < 81 %} {% if params.MAX_TEMPERATURE and params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float > -1 and params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float < 81 %} TEMPERATURE_WAIT SENSOR="temperature_sensor enclosure_temp" MINIMUM={params.MIN_TEMPERATURE|float} MAXIMUM={params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float} {% else %} TEMPERATURE_WAIT SENSOR="temperature_sensor enclosure_temp" MINIMUM={params.MIN_TEMPERATURE|float} {% endif %} {% elif params.MAX_TEMPERATURE and params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float > -1 and params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float < 81 %} TEMPERATURE_WAIT SENSOR="temperature_sensor enclosure_temp" MAXIMUM={params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float} {% else %} {action_raise_error("Chamber Temp Wait: invalid usage Use: - CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT MIN_TEMPERATURE=[0..80] - CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT MAX_TEMPERATURE=[0..80] - CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT MIN_TEMPERATURE=[0..80] MAX_TEMPERATURE=[0..80]")} {% endif %} Updates: - I added a photo of how this is wired up in the wiring compartment. The boxes with the text in the photo represent the components of the heater that are in the chamber of the printer. - I have included the macro to wait for chamber to reach temps before starting a print.

Angry CAM USB Please find my USB Camera Mod based on Waveshare OV5648 5MP USB Camera Module (A), which allows mounting to rear gantry or other position on a frame profile. Printing Printing succesful with standard VORON settings. Distance between mounts and camera housing set to 0.3 mm in *.stl file, which allows printing of mounts and housing in one print. Use the following two *.stl files for realization in one print: Camera_Housing Mounts.stl Rear_Cover.stl Additional Material Bill of Material: 1x Waveshare OV5648 5 MP Camera Module (A), incl. USB-A to JST SH PCB connector cable 2x M3x16 SHCS screws 2x M3 T-Nut for 2020 frame profile 1x Camera Housing Mounts and Rear Cover from the printing source of your trust. Optional/Required for frame sizes

Important Notes Hello everyone, Here is my C920 camera mod, please follow the disassembly guide below to remove the current mount off the camera. Please keep the 4 bottom screws from the mount as you will need them for my mod. Instructions For Disassembly Found Here! This mod allows you to set 2 point position for your camera, BOM Qty Item 2 M3x40mm 1 M3x10mm 2 Nuts 1 M3 Hammerhead nut https://camo.githubusercontent.com/758a4b22a5c56662c568b7ffb24373659bc0266bcc721e882b16ef4f2bb51f16/68747470733a2f2f7777772e70617970616c6f626a656374732e636f6d2f656e5f55532f692f62746e2f62746e5f646f6e6174655f4c472e676966

Tool free tensioner Name and specification Quantity SHCS M5x20 4 M4*0.7 Square nut 4 HHCS M4x16 4 D4x7x1(4x8x1)Flat washer 4 M5 Hex Nuts with Lock 4 bracket 2 tensioner 2 bracket image 2 tensioner image 2 wheel 4 PART PRINTING GUIDELINES MATERIAL ABS LAYER HEIGHT Recommended: 0.2mm EXTRUSION WIDTH Recommended: Forced 0.4mm INFILL TYPE Grid Gyroid Honeycomb Triangle Cubic SOLID TOP/BOTTOM LAYERS Recommended: 5 WALL COUNT Recommended: 4 INFILL PERCENTAGE Recommended: ≥60%

I wanted to be able to print ABS and ASA in my house without having to move my printer to a well ventilated area, so I started looking into ventilation options. I wasn't able to find anything that seemed to mount cleanly to my machine and look decent running to my window, so I designed this system for my printer. BOM: Parts to order 2.5" Hose Clamps x2 2.5" Flexible Dust Collector Hose (3ft in picture) x1 Weather Stripping (10ft in picture) M2 self-tapping screw Plastic Sheet (1.5mm-2mm) Parts to Print 60mm Fan to 2.5" Hose Adaptor x1 Hose Adaptor x1 Hose Adaptor Mount x1 One-way Valve x1 Left Link x1 Right Link x1 Center Link x? (You will need to measure your window for the proper number of links) Printing: 40% infill Supports needed 4 line walls Filament: Polymaker's Polylite ASA If you are using the stock Voron 2.4 exhaust system, you can attach the hose adaptor directly to the rear fan using the screws already holding the fan in place. All of the links snap very tightly together and may require pliers to fully seat the lock. You can also insert the one way valve into the hose adapter on the window side of the hose: Then just attach all of the other pieces according to the images below: Once you have everything hooked together your can wrap the window vent that is now sized for your window with the weather stripping to get a good seal on your window. One note, I was printing several test versions of this before I got to a full system. There are couple links you will see in the center of my image that have a smaller lip on them. I just reused these from previous test pieces so I didn't waste more plastic. Your center links should be consistent all the way across the middle section of the window vent. UPDATE: 3/9/2022 - Added a one-way valve to prevent outside air from causing a backdraft into your printer when your exhaust fan is disabled. This has made a significant impact on reducing plastic fumes in my house. After adding this, I can't smell any plastic unless the doors on the printer are open.

What are Panzerballs? Panzerballs are another type of feet using commonly available squash balls. Why do they exist? i hate sourcing of rubber compressor feet i felt that other squash ball mods do not satisfy me visually (sry) Why do i need Panzerballs? You probably don´t need them unless you got problems with sourcing the normal rubber compressor feet or you want something more squishy with maybe a better noise reduction. How do i install Panzerballs? Panzerballs are a drop in replacement for the base plate You need: 4x squash balls (super slow, double yellow dot, diameter 39.5-40.5 mm) o german source:https://www.decathlon.de/p/squashballe-sb-990-2er-pack-zwei-gelbe-punkte/_/R-p-312192 4x printed Panzerballs: o Use '01-Normal/[a]_PanzerBall_x4.stl' if you have not modded your z-Drive o If you use edwardyeeks V2.4_z_drive_tensioner_mod is also supported: install the Panzerballs from folder '02-Optional_z-Drive-Mod/*.stl' Screws as Voron Spec build Credits go to edwardyeeks.

This Remix of RyanDam's Cable Management Duct for Voron Printers includes a number of custom ducts which I am using in my Voron 2.4 build. Thanks to the original author for the excellent design of the ducts, which this remix is based on! Since these models are designed to work with electrical components, if you use these models, it is at your own risk. Included here are several customized ducts which may help with cable management in a Voron build. I am still in the process of building mine, and I chose to use the same electronics layout as the voron spec. These ducts were designed based on my FYSETC R2.4 kit (which I am building as an R2.4 V2), so some dimensions may be different in other kits. This was designed with help from the STEP file from the Voron Github. There are several ducts included, which are designed to go over the DIN rails, and these parts include “BRIDGE” in their names. These parts will need to be printed with supports. There is an integrated support in the “HALF_BRIDGE” part, but that could also be printed with supports if needed. The “HALF_BRIDGE” part also has a thin raft like integrated support which will need to be removed. The 90 degree full bridge ducts are slightly different between the right hand (RH) and left hand (LH) versions. The difference is that the RH version (Cable_Management_Duct_Remix_DUCT-FULL-BRIDGE_90DEG_RH_5B.stl) is cut off a bit short to allow the power supply stabilization bracket to pass. I set my ducts up so that the high voltage AC wires, and the low voltage DC wires, would stay in separate ducts. To do this, I used two half ducts (one for the AC, and one for DC), on the center duct which crosses the lower DIN rail in the pics, which is nearest the power supply. I also printed the AC ducts in orange so they would be distinctive as a reminder they contain the high voltage AC wires. There are also plain and logo versions of the covers. The covers for the “BRIDGE” parts have print in place hinges, so if you find they are welded together when printed, it will be helpful to calibrate flow and horizontal expansion, as well as adjust the temps for the filament used. I made some minor improvements to parts since I printed mine (either for length or printability), but I do not think there will be any issues due to the changes. I printed the ducts for my printer in ABS and PETG, but use your best judgement on the appropriate material to use. I used VHB tape to secure them, but just note that once placed, they won't likely be going anywhere soon. Parts are not oriented for printing. Feedback is welcome, and if there is a problem I will try to fix it as I have time. I'm still building my printer, so if I run into an issue with this design, I will update it further, however I don't foresee any interference issues currently. Most likely I will not be able to accommodate requests to customize these further. The STEP files can be found on Printables (since the file was too large for this site), so remixing will be simpler. If you print these, or use these, it is at your own risk. I posted some remix covers for the boxes, which have inset printed labels, as well as some single and double wire guides which I am using to secure my ground wires. If you find these models useful, please post a like or a comment with some pics of your prints. You can find some other things I am working on at my blog (https://www.mystoopidstuff.com/blog), thanks for looking! You can find some additional low profile wire guides here: https://www.printables.com/model/502345-wire-management-guides There is a remix of the small box (not included here but shown in the pics), which holds two WAGO 221-415 connectors here: https://www.printables.com/model/505826-wago-box-for-the-remix-of-ryandams-cable-managemen The AC caution covers, with inset text and warning symbols for the small box and half bridge duct, can can be found here: https://www.printables.com/model/505838-ac-caution-covers-for-remix-of-ryandams-cable-mana/files

Stealthburner Clockwork1 PCB Cover I designed a cover for users who are still rocking the CW1 with Stealthburner, with the same low-poly esthetic of stealthburner. This cover is a snug fit, so please make sure your wiring is all nice and tidy or you could have some issues.

Stealthburner (RC1) Crazy Dragon Fan Duct With special thanks to @chestwood96, sponsored by @3dmellow for the Crazy heatblock, as well as the awesome base design from the VoronDesign team, I'm able to create the Stealthburner Crazy Dragon fan duct. The fan duct is designed based on the Rapido toolhead mount (RC1), retro-fitted with Dragon styled duct allowing wind to blow towards the throat only. The duct is designed to be able to mount the Phaetus/Triangle Lab dragon heatsink with Mellow Crazy Heatblock (verified by myself and @chestwood96) Phaetus Dragon UHF mini (standard UHF version without the melt zone extender) TriangleLab T Volcano (to be verified) Print Parameters Print in standard Voron settings. Previews

Allows you to use 2040 vertical posts instead of 2020 for the Trident. I also have this for the 2.4 but these work for the Trident.

I modified the front left skirt on my Voron so I could add an hour meter. I connected the meter to the 24v side of the 110v relay so it only runs when the printer is printing. The hour meter can be found here. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XNTBGY3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

PTFE bowden tube guide and CANBUS wire support Required Hardware: M3x8 Bolt and M3 T-nut M5x10 Bolt or a M5x8 Optional 4mm drill bit for cleaning out bowden tube path About In my 350 build the PTFE tube kept getting caught so I made this arm to keep it up. The shorter arm works better so I recommend using it instead The setup has also been used by a few user to support their CANBUS wires (zip tied to the reverse bowden) Install Drill out bowden guide with 4mm drill bit for a perfect fit (optional) Bolt mount to rear frame with M3x8 and tnut putting the lip at the top Screw arm on with M5x10 (I used a M5x8mm and it works fine) into the plastic allowing the arm to still be able to swivel

Voron V2.4 Skirt Buttons Mod Switches Needed Printer Size Qty Needed 350 12 300 8 250 4 You need 12*12mm 5mm tactile switches. Make sure they are through hole, not SMD! Here are a few examples: Amazon: https://amzn.to/3788dfZ Aliexpress: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_eKCJlo Wiring Put the switches in the hexagons, bend the legs of the switches. Wire one side of the switches together, connect to the mcu or Pi (depending on your config). Connect seperate wires to the opposite sides. I recommend using hot glue to keep the wires in place. Otherwise you may disconnect the solder joints, or worse, break the legs of the switches when installing by accident. Gluing The Buttons I recommend using hot glue for attaching the printed button caps to the switches. You can also use super glue, but you may need to space the caps by putting a washer in between as hot glue is thicker. You may need to cut the elephant foot if the buttons get stuck when pressed. Config Options You have 2 choices: Using FW of your 3D printer (like Klipper), or using Octoprint's Enclosure plugin. Config for Klipper Here is the relevant config info from GitHub page of Klipper. # Execute gcode when a button is pressed or released (or when a pin # changes state). You can check the state of the button by using # QUERY_BUTTON button=my_gcode_button #[gcode_button my_gcode_button] #pin: # The pin on which the button is connected. This parameter must be # provided. #press_gcode: # A list of G-Code commands to execute when the button is pressed. # G-Code templates are supported. This parameter must be provided. #release_gcode: # A list of G-Code commands to execute when the button is released. # G-Code templates are supported. The default is to not run any # commands on a button release. Config for Octoprint Install the plugin

Magnetic Panels with Magnet Inserts There are various panel latches and magnetic clips that offer quick panel removal for swapping between enclosed- and open-chamber printing, but I wanted to fix a few of the pain points that I ran into with some of the existing mods. Does not require a lot of filament. The corner and mid-panel clips were modeled after the stock Trident panel clips and are similarly hollowed, saving filament and print time. Uses a thin strip of VHB to adhere to the panels. This should provide (1) solid adhesion without the need for drilling or extra fasteners, (2) some amount of squish for the magnets to pull against, and (3) the ability to adjust or remove them in the future. The frame magnet inserts are designed to (1) require only printed parts and no additional fasteners aside from the 6x3 magnets, (2) sit inside the frame slot flush against the aluminum frame face, (3) be easily adjustable, and (4) retain the magnets without glue and allow removal for correcting polarity or salvaging. Discord@PF VT.520 came up with the idea of using a hammerhead-style rotating nut to tighten and press against the magnet insert, holding it in place. There are two included versions of the inserts. Magnet-Insert.stl is the original design but may be slightly more difficult to print due to the bridging involved. Magnet-Insert-Side.stl is redesigned for easier printing; namely, reoriented on its side, uses 45° chamfers rather than fillets, and does not require bridging. The panel's ability to sit right up to the face of the frame allows the panels to pop on and off without any interference. The only required parts are a small amount of VHB tape and a lot of magnets (48 6x3mm magnets for each panel). Magnet inserts hold two 6x3 magnets and is held in the aluminum extrusion with an unhammer The corner and mid-panel clips hold matching 6x3 magnets Installation jig makes it easy to set the proper spacing for corner inserts

My printer weighs close to 100lbs and half of that is glass panels. I don't trust current handle designs for that kind of weight but I needed something to make my printer movable. Each one needs 2 screws: 2 x m4-18mm and 2 x m4 t-nuts. The handle is designed to load the extrusions along the inserted ridges. The screws are mostly there to keep it fully inserted; in fact, the handle clips on the frame and hold there without the screws! These handles will make it possible for two people to firmly hold the printer and carry it. STL needs to be mirrored to make a proper pair and 2 pairs needed for a full set. Hinge Clarence: Version 1 installed (v2 looks the same)

These are designed to clip into 2020 extrusions and have a 12mm trough to accommodate 11mm LED strips of the most generic kind. a set of 3 is required to cover your horizontal rails. They clip pretty hard. I suggest printing just 1; interrupt the print after the first clip is done and test on your extrusions to make sure it clips but not unreasonably hard. You can use "horizontal expansion" setting in your slicer to adjst the fit. Print them standing up and with a wall width of 0.5mm: this is required for the plastic to comply when pushed in the slot. ** This is meant as a permanent fixture: be careful when testing as I was only able to remove them by sliding off the end. It would suck to have to disassemble your frame ** New shaded version here: Shaded LED rails