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Found 21 results

  1. Took a while of debating myself: V0 "cheaper" entry and smol, V2 popular but Trident seemed underrepresented. Really it was mostly everyone saying Trident is a bit easier as the first Voron, and I can always build the others later on. So I ordered my Trident 350 formbot kit yesterday, they don't reopen until Monday. And then however long it takes to be shipped and make it to my door. Still plenty of things to do before then. Mainly: Working my way through the printed parts list and the stl files. Currently at 8% of parts according to it. Would be further but I detoured to bed adhesion problems when I tried the a/b drive frames. Printing on a smooth pei stuck to glass. Bought some gluesticks today and going to sleep on the reprints, they look like they should make it. Hopefully wont have to add too much more to the waste pile. And then there are the mods! I'm open to suggestions but so far: Stealthburner Inverted electronics https://www.teamfdm.com/files/file/526-trident-inverted-electronics/ TAP/Metal TAP/ChaoticLab? https://github.com/Vitalii3D-xyz/MetalTap - Still looking into them, but seems like doing tap now would save disassembling and adding later. Snap Latches https://www.teamfdm.com/files/file/392-snap-latch-2020/ Internal Spool https://www.teamfdm.com/files/file/537-horseshoespoolholder/ Probably Nevermore or another filter eventually
  2. Hello again, Sorry for the delay in posting something since I did my introduction in January. < tossed longer and rambling message > The easy part is done with the frame, gantry, build plate, enclosure. Wiring is ran. The 3D printed parts kits I had ordered were missing parts. I initially bought "all the printed parts" as a kit from a vendor, to later on realize it did not have the skirts or the screen mount. Ordered the skirt kit from same vendor, only to discover it was not the screen mount for the touch display. Didn't see an option on that person's site to choose the proper screen display. And it did not have the enclosure pieces. Went with a different vendor and got my enclosure parts. Completed the enclosure to again find missing parts - the exhaust grill and hangers for the exhaust fan. Reached out to a few different vendors on etsy. Didn't get replies. I decided to improvise some temporary parts using acrylic. If I can get the printer up and running I can print the few remaining parts using models I found on this site. The 3rd and 4th pictures show the exhaust mount and the touch screen support. The display support will allow me run the printer while not shorting the display on my metal work table. The printer has the TAP option. I built the ABS mount for it. It doesn't feel right. Something with the magnets and the screws doesn't feel tight enough. I worry that when printing the print head will shift. Tried different magnets from McMaster-Carr, along with different contact screws for the magnets to latch onto. Still felt loose. Then I saw a nice aluminum frame for the TAP, bought that. Waiting for it to arrive - first "upgrade" to be installed before even using the printer. Now it is time for the part of the project I have been dreading - installing software. Already had a false start when I tried to install the wrong OS. I straighten that out and got the correct software for the BTTpi installed and running. I already erased the SSD once to start over. I am about to do the same once more as I try to find the right instructions/path. I feel like I have missed the correct path. When I assembled my Ultimaker over a decade ago there was one set of instructions to follow, and the OS and printer code was already on the controller board. Screwed everything together, loaded filament, got my first prints. This time around it has not been a straight forward path. Using the Voron instructions I was able to build the frame and the mechanical parts on the printer. When I started wiring it up I noticed the electronics parts were different from the Voron instructions. The substitutions seem to make sense, and using a few different youtube videos and other sites I am pretty sure it is wired up correctly. Bought the printer kit in mid September. Started to build it in mid October. Took a break to focus on the holidays, resumed in January. The mechanical build has been done for over a month. I think I should be done by now. The software feels more convoluted. I'll get thru this after I take a little time look around for the rosetta stone that has to be out there. Thank you for reading this far. And I hope I have posted this correctly
  3. Finally I have the parts which I self source ready. This web help you make your mind for the color. # Plan for my build: 1. 350 x 350 build 2. Octopus Pro 446 + TMC2209 3. Raspberry Pi 3B + 4. EBB36 Canbus 5. PITFT5 6. PI cam 7. Smoke detection alarm 8. Rapido 9. Octoprint 10. Klipper 11. Octodash 12. Klicky 13. Filament runout Unklicky 14. PurgeBucket & Nozzle brush 15. Sensorless Homing 16. Sexbolt 17. Nevermore filter and more filter 18. Some sort of removable panel and door with magnets. 19. Rolling Voron 20. Boot from SSD drive 21. LED LED LED and LED 22. Umbilical cord 23. Relocation chain 24. More on fire hazard prevent and protection 25. Remote monitor Since I source every part by myself so it's a waiting game. Then I started to order PIF from @Stephan (discord username). He kindly helps me find a way to deliver to me with a cheaper fee from Germany. Thanks for that. # PIF Here are the bags of the main printer part for Voron 2.4 R2 Rapido. All the parts from the bag. Accent color is orange. 1st bag base color. 2nd bag base color. 3rd bag base color. Below here you can look at the print quality from PIF.
  4. Hi All, I was encouraged to do a build diary but straight off the bat I am not a document type guy lol . Long story short I was off work for the Christmas holiday period and somehow ended up getting drawn into the Voron world. After watching a few too many youtube videos I decided to jump in at the deep end and started placing orders. Did not opt for a full kit as I wanted some control over what went into the system if I was going to spend this much on yet another "hobby" The parts have started trickling in but due to the order they are arriving I think I may have to wait till its all here to see some real progress. This may end up being a slow build depending on some order delays and how much I can stretch a day. I could not help myself though and started the basic frame ensuring it is all square. Since the rails were also in that order I cleaned them up with 91% IA (what I had at this time) and greased them. I used a grease which was readily available and closely matched the spec for Mobilux EP2 but since I do not really know the consistency(fluidity?) of the Mobilux EP2 this one has the carriage sliding down from top in lets say 2-3 secs. I compared this to a rail I have from a system I tried to build a few years ago and had never cleaned. That carriage drops almost instantly if I flip it vertically. So my question would be with the new ones greased up what kind of movement am I aiming for? Instant drop like the old rail or a consistent slide down the rail? Thanks and hopefully I can keep this thread updated with my progress...will post some parts that have arrived.
  5. Version 1.0.0


    When form meets function. I wanted to add a power switch to the side of my printer so as not to have to lean around for access. Anyone with 80's computers experience will know about the famous 'side switches' of early IBM home computers. So I took inspiration there and started looking for the original switch. Sadly, the original switch (Chili 3031) was discontinued and I'm not going to put an actual retro switch on my build so I found this one that has similar enough looks, though a bit smaller than the original: https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/c-k/D602J53S205QA/3752581 As requested by @Avalonstar , here's a version to fit the switch on the front skirt of the 2.4 r2 : front_skirt_b_350 - IBM style switch.stl
  6. Hi, i want to build a trident with 350 to 350 mm. - I want a very strong frame and so i will use 40x40 slot 5 profiles (don't know "slot 5" is a valid translation) - I am not sure i like the cable chains, so my frame should be open for an umbilical solution (no can bus) - I plan to use a dragon standard, an orbiter 2 or LTX lite extruder and an octopus pro - no hall sensors There are still many open decisions, because I still have to gather some knowledge. This is the state of my planing.
  7. Hi, as the title suggests, this is going to take a while. I don't have spare money laying around so a kit is out of the question. I'm going to source everything myself. This is actually something I like doing. So, the actual build state is as follows : I bought the extrusions (In Poland, great quality and price) and am now in the process of tapping and drilling. Not very exciting I'm afraid, although I did design and print a few very simple jigs for drilling holes. I have no experience in printing ABS, always having printed in PLA and PETG. I tried with an enclosure for my trusted Ender 3 but hated the smell and the results were below par. So I decided to take advantage of the Voron PIF program, but since this is a slow build anyways I'll wait till the Stealthburner is officially the goto toolhead. As soon as the screws arrive from Ali I'll start assembling the frame.
  8. # Overview Red 350x350x250 frame + Fire Engine Red ABS+ parts Stealthburner + Clockwork 2 + Revo Voron Manta M5P + CB1 + TMC2209 + CAN LDO Motors Tap Tap Tap! Mods! (will get to those later) # Parts list (will edit as things change) Motion POWGE VORON Trident Motion Set (AliExpress) 2 × LDO Stepper Motor (42STH48-2004MAH) (OneTwo3D) 3 × LDO Linear Stepper Motor (42STH40-1684L300E) (OneTwo3D) CNA 440C Stainless Steel Rails and Carriage (AliExpress) Misc FYSETC Voron Trident Screws Nuts Full Kit 3D Printer Screws Full Kit (AliExpress) FYSTEC Frame (AliExpress) 10*11mm Mini Energy Nylon Drag Chain (AliExpress) PET Braided Wire Sleeving (AliExpress) *MOD* Adam Hall - set of black rubber feet - 38x33 mm (Amazon) *MOD* 2 x Daylight on a stick XXL (PrintyPlease) Toolhead E3D 24V Rapid Change Revo™, Voron 1.75mm Fully Loaded Upgrade Kit (Amazon) RNC Nano Coated Gear DDB Extruder (Trianglelab) Delta 5015 (BFB0524HH) (PrintyPlease) Sunon MF40101VX-1000U-G99 (Digikey) Voron Tap 5V (PrintyPlease) *MOD* Rainbow Barf LEDs + Resin printed lens (PrintyPlease) Stealthburner RGBW LEDs (PrintyPlease) LDO-36STH20-1004AHG(XH) motor (Biqu) *MOD* BIGTREETECH EBB SB2240 CAN V1.0 for Voron StealthBurner (Biqu) Bed 8mm Thick Trident Bed 355mm (PrintyPlease) *MOD* Whoppingpochard's Maxwell Kinematic mounts for Voron Trident (PrintyPlease) VORON Full-size Bed Heater (Magicphoenix) CatBed 355mm PEI Flexplate with Magnet (PrintyPlease) Electronics bay BIGTREETECH Manta M5P Control Board with CB1 (Biqu) IEC-GS-1-100 (Digikey) MeanWell UHP-200-24 (Magicphoenix) SCHAFFNER FN2060-16-06 16A (bought new from eBay) Sensata / Crydom D24110PG (bought new from eBay) Sunon FAN AXIAL 60X20MM 24VDC (Digikey) 3 x BIGTREETECH TMC2209 V1.3 Stepper Motor Driver (Biqu) *MOD* Meanwell UHP-200-48 Power Supply (PrintyPlease) *MOD* 2 x Makerbase MKS TMC5160-PRO 8-60VDC Stepper Motor Driver (AliExpress) # The frame I'd say this Fystec frame is more magenta than red, but either way, I think it looks great. # Printing time I'm printing parts on an Ender 3 V2, in a cold garage. I started in November but had to wait till Mid-January before temperatures were above 0c. The first results weren't great... eSUN ABS+ spool was full of tangles which caused failed prints But eventually, some prints started to emerge! To be continued...
  9. Planning Phase: Hello me again. Still have the one kit that has been lying in storage for quite some time and decided to get it out and buiild the printer. Due to time constraints this may be a much slower build than the others. Will follow the same structure as the Trident build with mods incorporated into the build as I go along. Having built a 2.4r2, I hope this build will be quite straightforward - but then there are the mods: Octopus Pro v1.1 with Canboot and canbus connection Mellow Fly SB2040 Canbus toolhead PCB install Stealthburner Cover with integrated fanmount Umbilical mod Voron TAP (I just love this thing!) Orbiter 2 with filament runout sensor in Stealthburner Toolhead e3d Revo Voron Hotend VFach Filter (Thanks @Buurman) Silicone Nozzle brush with purge bucket Voron Pin Mod for A/B motors Pin mod for Z-Idlers Nero3D idler bearing stack Ramalama2 Front idlers (pinned) PTFE Bowden Tube guide for Umbilicus Dual Nevermore filters Ellis Bed fan mod Single door with Voron 2.4 hinge mod Logitech C922 Camera mount BTT PiTFT50 with Klipperscreen mount Revo Nozzle Holder skirt mod Panzer ball feet Chamber LEDs mount Extrusion Profile covers Z-Belt Cover mod Deck Panel Supports Engaged Rabbit feeder - (This one I know is going to be a b.....) I think that is it, but with me ----- you never know As some of the mods (Silicone brush holder, Orbiter 2 Mellow Fly combination for e.g) will involve some Fusion 360 work, it may take a while. Though I followed @claudermilkadvise and watched all the lessons from Paul McWorther, I still struggle with the more intriquite designs in Fusion 360. Might call on @Penatr8tor for some advice when the time comes. Next - Color decisions.
  10. I just finished my build a few weeks ago, and was keeping a log that I was showing to a few of my friends. I'm going to move that over to this forum, and add to it as I make more modifications to my printer in the future. I decided against going with a kit because I knew I'd want to change parts right out of the gate, so I started a sourcing spreadsheet to keep track of pricing and who I was ordering from: Voron Parts Tracking.xlsx My parts started to arrive, so I started making piles: My printed parts were the last to arrive. When they did I started building: I started to feel a little intimidated at this point. All of the components were installed, but I didn't fully grasp how the electronics worked, and the documentation kind of died off in the build manual. I stared at this for a few days while I did some research on the controller board and raspberry pi: Once I had a better understanding of how things were supposed to come together, I simplified the electronics and removed the 5v power supply. I decided to go with the UART connection to the spider, to make the wiring look a little cleaner: I quickly realized my Dragon SF didn't come with a thermistor or heater cartridge. So, while I waited on that to arrive, I installed Fluidd as my web interface and started to become more familiar with the software components: Once I had my software setup and ready to installed my panels: Installed my thermistor and heater cartridge as soon as they arrived and ran my first test using PLA to print a Voron cube: I was so stoked at the quality that this had right out of the gate. I'll add my adventures with upgrades over all of the stock setup in an upcoming post.
  11. Hello Everyone! I'm building my first Voron 2.4 r2 LDO 350 kit with an Octopus 1.1 board, mainsail OS. I am getting hit with this error: I've followed the LDO wiring docs for this board found here:https://docs.ldomotors.com/en/voron/voron2/wiring_guide_rev_a It seems like the motors are not getting power. Pretty sure that im doing something silly, just not experienced enough to know what yet. for what its worth, the bed heater and rapido hf hotend DID heat up (yay, small win). (screenshot of documentation, but my board is wired the exact same way, just not a clean.) Does anyone have any thoughts? Happy to provide more info if needed! Sincere thanks in advance! Shifty
  12. Hi, I'm starting my journey in the build process. What will the purpose of this printer for start : I'm producing litophanes on 4 printers (well, 3 actully, the 4th is under modification :D) These litophanes take a hell of time to be printed (3 to 4 days for the biggest 20cm diameter ones) So I want to speed up a little bit the process without loosing quality. Second purpose, I'm also doing maps of the moon 600x450 mm. having a bigger plate will enhance quality ( less joints to fill !) MARE IRIS I baught a FYSETC kit : https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005004544503501.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.4.73d67d56WGdZP9&gatewayAdapt=glo2fra Purple she will be (ship from spain, 4 days delivery to France) I jumped on this kit before knowing that FYSETC have had a ... peculiar behavior respect to the VORON project and team. sorry for that. I was looking tat LDO kit but 500€ difference is a HUGE gap (30% more whaaaaat ?!) I will use a rapido HF hotend as several people adised me, Klipper (never used it but having a VORON without klipper is like having a Ferrari without fuel no ?) I'm focusing on the preparation now : What to print, how much filament, how to organize the mess. here's how I proceeded : Download the stl on the github : https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2/releases/tag/V2.4r2 There is a shit load (sorry, language...) of pieces to print right now I see that I will need 242 hours of printing and 1.8kg of ABS. I have so decided to print EVERYTHING (or change my mind) in same ABS color : Purple (https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B01AE9EQJ2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) I have created a google sheet to have more visibility : https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1wKTEwpUDCoE5RdBIAZ99yWagr5PqbSOThR42P0DKqDA/edit?usp=sharing This is 19 plates, placed in 19 plastic bags to get things easier I have 2 prusa MK3S, it will be a full week of printing. (if everything goes well my dear, if everything goes well...) I havn't started to print, I need to finish a prusa box before... (https://www.printer-box.com/fr/) I will have to clean and treat the linear rails also as per this video from Alex Kenis : I have alrerady treated linear rails for my "ender3", unmounting the carriage is NOT simple and I don't do it anymore. So here's my process: - wash linear rails + carriage with Alccol isopropyl 99% - flush the carriage with WD 40 (flush in the little hole of the carriage) - apply grease (SUPER LUBE : https://www.amazon.fr/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI) on linear rails and in the ball way of the carriage Questions : - Right now I think it's a huge project to print, I can't stop thinking I'm printing to much pieces. Of course it's much more than the PIF programs gives you, I think maybe people prints just the necessary parts then print the rest on the Voron itself but it should be a pain to rebuild everything no ? - I'm also thinking to several stuff : I'm not an inexperienced maker, and I will go for taptaptap stuff and ADXL345. Several people told me to start basic and upgrdade AFTER. isn't it a pain to modifiy AFTER when you know you will go for a mod ? *************************************************************************** EDIT : Here's the link to my Voron printed part check list : https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1fp3H7S3F8znif39BxnOTzqTZ4fQqCVs-TIW24X1bEUU/edit#gid=0 I'm updating this version along the way. when I see pieces that are no longer in the official STl repository, I remove it.
  13. Version 1.0.0


    This is a two piece LED strip mount. It accommodates 7mm-8mm LED strips and mounts them to 2020 extrusion at a fixed 45 degree angle. BOM: Printed Male Mount Printed Male Mount - 1 Printed Female Mount - 1 3mm Socket Head Bolt - 4 3mm T-nut - 4 Strip of 7mm-8mm led lights Notes: This was specifically designed to fit my 350x350 build. It would likely need to be scaled down to fit smaller v2.4s I'll add a better wiring photo once I get it cleaned up
  14. Starting building soon, most parts are delivered or in transport now. had some delay of Formbot city lockdown, but LDO is having massive delays also (even worse). Expecting to start building in about two weeks.... to be continued! Voron Kit: Formbot 2.4 R3 350 Vulcan SF Printed Parts: ASA Carbon Black & Neon Yellow (Neon Yellow was self sources, not a default color offered) High Quality prints from Mehmet (Turkey) on Etsy 5 star rating https://www.etsy.com/nl/shop/Yacime3D?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=1188668167 Wiring: Decided to buy an all black kit + SB kit from OneTwo3D.co.uk LCD: BTT Pi TFT50 v2.0 - BigTreeTech Electronics: Need to decide to mount things normal, or vertical, see what brings best space and cooling. Ventilation/filtering: Nevermore Duo with two Delta fans. Mostly for the hot air distribution, but filtering helps. VEFACH filter outlet MOD
  15. Formbot Trident Kit (minus rails, heater ,and board) Octopus Pro v1.0 Board Orbiter 2.0 Extruder Mellow Carbon Fiber X Axis Secondary Mean Well LRS150-48 150w 3.3A 48v PSU Fystec 5160qhv Stepper Drivers x2 for A/B Motors (For 48v) LDO 42STH48-25094AC Stepper Motors 2.5A Max for A/B KvP Steller Black ABS + KvP Banana Yellow ABS Accent + Paramount Deception Purple ABS Accent Polymaker PC-ABS Filament Blend for increased heat resistance for A/B motor mounts Fabreeko Edge to Edge Heater Fabreeko HoneyBadger Rails Printedsolid ACM Panels for Trident 3x Igus EGLM-05 Bearings to replace the GE5C Triangle Labs Rapido Hotend Bondtech CHT Nozzles 0.4mm - 1.0mm Titanium Extrusion Backers from Fabreeko Fystek 355x355 0.3mm Frosted PEI for back of Formbot Flexplate Mods: Klicky, Sexbolt, Rama's Better Front Idlers, Nevermore, AB ERCF 3.2 PCB, ADXL PCB, Steathburner, 270 degree door hinges Spacelab's Orbiter 2.0 Mount PiCam v2.1, FFC Mod (once its back in stock) ERCF 9 Color MMU from BlueRolls Ikea Lack Table I'm currently through page 62 of the Trident manual. This is my first time building a printer, and I only got into 3D printing in Nov 2021 (bought an Artillery Genius Pro). Been a lot of reading, watching, and geeking out. Hello Wisconsin!!! -OneStepAhead
  16. Version 1.0.0


    Adapted from the original power_inlet_IECGS_ part to accommodate a Schaffner FN9280 Ultra Compact Filtered IEC power module. Left and Right versions provided. Modded using Sketchup Pro 2022 (skp file provided). Model is 100% watertight and easy to print. The 4mm holes accept regular M3 heat inserts to secure the power module's flange (using M3x12 cone head machine screws).
  17. Version 1.0.0


    Adapted from the original front_skirt_a_350 part to accommodate a ZF Rocker Switch WRG32F2FBREN. The cut-out for the switch is following the manufacturer's specifications, and is tapered to make removal of the switch easier. Left and Right versions provided. Modded using Sketchup Pro 2022 (skp file provided). Model is 100% watertight and easy to print.
  18. Version 1.0.0


    [Voron 2.4 350] Open grill for the side skirt. Fits in snuggly. 2 screws. Modified from the original models using Sketchup Pro 2022 Pro (SKP file also provided). STL is 100% watertight and easy to print, and easy to modify to make smaller versions. I'm sure someone else must already have made a similar one, but I couldn't find any with a lazy search.
  19. It took a while to get the nerve up to attempt this build. I have been struggling with speed on my other printers knowing that the limitations were due to the bed sliding back and forth. After a few months of of research and watching the speed benchy challenge, i was and am very sure i found the next printer that i was after. Building a printer is always intimidating no matter how many you have built. I got excited and went for it in the form of a Formbot kit. I looked to sourcing everything myself for about 5 minutes... maybe on the zero i will start next but i have plans for this printer sooner rather than later. I also wanted to build a larger volume printer. soooo friken sold on building this at this point! My counterparts want me to enroll in classes.. i guess 5 printers that are all of different flavors is too much for non-hobbyists to handle in thought. These are the same counterparts that ask for random odds and ends from antennae mounts to cup holders on their off road rigs that i happily and extatically design and print for a beer here and there. The frame was not like anything i have done in the past.. "blind fastening"... lets try it! I spent a few hours getting everything together, double/ triple checking with 2.4.6 blocks clamped in place while i added Loctite and did a final tighten corner by corner. It worked well and everything measured square. At this point i have not gone digging for how to's on YouTube or looked for forums. I got this... next step was installing the bed... i don't got this. The manual did not specify location so to the YouTube i went. Looking at other build logs i decided to wait and install the bed very late in the build closer to the wiring portion. It does not look very complex but something worth locating after the firmware is loaded and you can move the print head around. Weekend 1 in the books! Frame is solid and true...ish...i think. The kids now have a directive to say "OOHHH" whenever i hit a personal milestone in the build when i point out what i have done. The wife shakes her head, smirks, and follows suit, then shakes head again. I am satisfied.
  20. Just leaving these here for now. Details of my journey to follow soon! All the best, StalkS
  21. As Stated in the title, this will be my build dairy for my recently purchased Fysetc Kit from Aliexpress. You can see the unboxing images here... The Printed Parts While this is not my first or even 5th printer, this is me first Voron Build. I expect there to be bumps in the road, but it is a learning process. In efforts of getting started quickly, I purchased a complete set of printed parts from Discord User "joshmurrah#2391" - including all the cosmetics. Documentation Issues Last night I started the process of sorting items and thought I was missing a part - I reached out to Josh and he was super quick and helpful to indicate that the part pictured in the V2.4 manual is actually updated and was able to identify very quickly where the parts laid on my photograph of parts on my table. Kudos for the support from Josh - HIGHLY recommended! On page 23 of the current V2.4 Manual, the new part looks like this... For reference, this is a photo pf the current manuals rendition of the Motor mount... Sorting and ID After laying out all my parts, I grouped the items in 6 different bags to help with assembly ensuring that I didn't have to dig through ALL of the parts every-time I wanted to work on the printer build. Please follow this topic for updates and additional information on the build!
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