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About Me

Voron Serial #1

Voron Serial #2

Voron Serial #3

Found 13 results

  1. Hi, as the title suggests, this is going to take a while. I don't have spare money laying around so a kit is out of the question. I'm going to source everything myself. This is actually something I like doing. So, the actual build state is as follows : I bought the extrusions (In Poland, great quality and price) and am now in the process of tapping and drilling. Not very exciting I'm afraid, although I did design and print a few very simple jigs for drilling holes. I have no experience in printing ABS, always having printed in PLA and PETG. I tried with an enclosure for my trusted Ender 3 but hated the smell and the results were below par. So I decided to take advantage of the Voron PIF program, but since this is a slow build anyways I'll wait till the Stealthburner is officially the goto toolhead. As soon as the screws arrive from Ali I'll start assembling the frame.
  2. Finally I have the parts which I self source ready. This web help you make your mind for the color. # Plan for my build: 1. 350 x 350 build 2. Octopus Pro 446 + TMC2209 3. Raspberry Pi 3B + 4. EBB36 Canbus 5. PITFT5 6. PI cam 7. Smoke detection alarm 8. Rapido 9. Octoprint 10. Klipper 11. Octodash 12. Klicky 13. Filament runout Unklicky 14. PurgeBucket & Nozzle brush 15. Sensorless Homing 16. Sexbolt 17. Nevermore filter and more filter 18. Some sort of removable panel and door with magnets. 19. Rolling Voron 20. Boot from SSD drive 21. LED LED LED and LED 22. Umbilical cord 23. Relocation chain 24. More on fire hazard prevent and protection 25. Remote monitor Since I source every part by myself so it's a waiting game. Then I started to order PIF from @Stephan (discord username). He kindly helps me find a way to deliver to me with a cheaper fee from Germany. Thanks for that. # PIF Here are the bags of the main printer part for Voron 2.4 R2 Rapido. All the parts from the bag. Accent color is orange. 1st bag base color. 2nd bag base color. 3rd bag base color. Below here you can look at the print quality from PIF.
  3. Hi, i want to build a trident with 350 to 350 mm. - I want a very strong frame and so i will use 40x40 slot 5 profiles (don't know "slot 5" is a valid translation) - I am not sure i like the cable chains, so my frame should be open for an umbilical solution (no can bus) - I plan to use a dragon standard, an orbiter 2 or LTX lite extruder and an octopus pro - no hall sensors There are still many open decisions, because I still have to gather some knowledge. This is the state of my planing.
  4. Version 1.0.0


    This is a two piece LED strip mount. It accommodates 7mm-8mm LED strips and mounts them to 2020 extrusion at a fixed 45 degree angle. BOM: Printed Male Mount Printed Male Mount - 1 Printed Female Mount - 1 3mm Socket Head Bolt - 4 3mm T-nut - 4 Strip of 7mm-8mm led lights Notes: This was specifically designed to fit my 350x350 build. It would likely need to be scaled down to fit smaller v2.4s I'll add a better wiring photo once I get it cleaned up
  5. Starting building soon, most parts are delivered or in transport now. had some delay of Formbot city lockdown, but LDO is having massive delays also (even worse). Expecting to start building in about two weeks.... to be continued! Voron Kit: Formbot 2.4 R3 350 Vulcan SF Printed Parts: ASA Carbon Black & Neon Yellow (Neon Yellow was self sources, not a default color offered) High Quality prints from Mehmet (Turkey) on Etsy 5 star rating https://www.etsy.com/nl/shop/Yacime3D?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=1188668167 Wiring: Decided to buy an all black kit + SB kit from OneTwo3D.co.uk LCD: BTT Pi TFT50 v2.0 - BigTreeTech Electronics: Need to decide to mount things normal, or vertical, see what brings best space and cooling. Ventilation/filtering: Nevermore Duo with two Delta fans. Mostly for the hot air distribution, but filtering helps. VEFACH filter outlet MOD
  6. Version 1.0.0


    When form meets function. I wanted to add a power switch to the side of my printer so as not to have to lean around for access. Anyone with 80's computers experience will know about the famous 'side switches' of early IBM home computers. So I took inspiration there and started looking for the original switch. Sadly, the original switch (Chili 3031) was discontinued and I'm not going to put an actual retro switch on my build so I found this one that has similar enough looks, though a bit smaller than the original: https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/c-k/D602J53S205QA/3752581
  7. Formbot Trident Kit (minus rails, heater ,and board) Octopus Pro v1.0 Board Orbiter 2.0 Extruder Mellow Carbon Fiber X Axis Secondary Mean Well LRS150-48 150w 3.3A 48v PSU Fystec 5160qhv Stepper Drivers x2 for A/B Motors (For 48v) LDO 42STH48-25094AC Stepper Motors 2.5A Max for A/B KvP Steller Black ABS + KvP Banana Yellow ABS Accent + Paramount Deception Purple ABS Accent Polymaker PC-ABS Filament Blend for increased heat resistance for A/B motor mounts Fabreeko Edge to Edge Heater Fabreeko HoneyBadger Rails Printedsolid ACM Panels for Trident 3x Igus EGLM-05 Bearings to replace the GE5C Triangle Labs Rapido Hotend Bondtech CHT Nozzles 0.4mm - 1.0mm Titanium Extrusion Backers from Fabreeko Fystek 355x355 0.3mm Frosted PEI for back of Formbot Flexplate Mods: Klicky, Sexbolt, Rama's Better Front Idlers, Nevermore, AB ERCF 3.2 PCB, ADXL PCB, Steathburner, 270 degree door hinges Spacelab's Orbiter 2.0 Mount PiCam v2.1, FFC Mod (once its back in stock) ERCF 9 Color MMU from BlueRolls Ikea Lack Table I'm currently through page 62 of the Trident manual. This is my first time building a printer, and I only got into 3D printing in Nov 2021 (bought an Artillery Genius Pro). Been a lot of reading, watching, and geeking out. Hello Wisconsin!!! -OneStepAhead
  8. Version 1.0.0


    Adapted from the original power_inlet_IECGS_ part to accommodate a Schaffner FN9280 Ultra Compact Filtered IEC power module. Left and Right versions provided. Modded using Sketchup Pro 2022 (skp file provided). Model is 100% watertight and easy to print. The 4mm holes accept regular M3 heat inserts to secure the power module's flange (using M3x12 cone head machine screws).
  9. Version 1.0.0


    Adapted from the original front_skirt_a_350 part to accommodate a ZF Rocker Switch WRG32F2FBREN. The cut-out for the switch is following the manufacturer's specifications, and is tapered to make removal of the switch easier. Left and Right versions provided. Modded using Sketchup Pro 2022 (skp file provided). Model is 100% watertight and easy to print.
  10. Version 1.0.0


    [Voron 2.4 350] Open grill for the side skirt. Fits in snuggly. 2 screws. Modified from the original models using Sketchup Pro 2022 Pro (SKP file also provided). STL is 100% watertight and easy to print, and easy to modify to make smaller versions. I'm sure someone else must already have made a similar one, but I couldn't find any with a lazy search.
  11. It took a while to get the nerve up to attempt this build. I have been struggling with speed on my other printers knowing that the limitations were due to the bed sliding back and forth. After a few months of of research and watching the speed benchy challenge, i was and am very sure i found the next printer that i was after. Building a printer is always intimidating no matter how many you have built. I got excited and went for it in the form of a Formbot kit. I looked to sourcing everything myself for about 5 minutes... maybe on the zero i will start next but i have plans for this printer sooner rather than later. I also wanted to build a larger volume printer. soooo friken sold on building this at this point! My counterparts want me to enroll in classes.. i guess 5 printers that are all of different flavors is too much for non-hobbyists to handle in thought. These are the same counterparts that ask for random odds and ends from antennae mounts to cup holders on their off road rigs that i happily and extatically design and print for a beer here and there. The frame was not like anything i have done in the past.. "blind fastening"... lets try it! I spent a few hours getting everything together, double/ triple checking with 2.4.6 blocks clamped in place while i added Loctite and did a final tighten corner by corner. It worked well and everything measured square. At this point i have not gone digging for how to's on YouTube or looked for forums. I got this... next step was installing the bed... i don't got this. The manual did not specify location so to the YouTube i went. Looking at other build logs i decided to wait and install the bed very late in the build closer to the wiring portion. It does not look very complex but something worth locating after the firmware is loaded and you can move the print head around. Weekend 1 in the books! Frame is solid and true...ish...i think. The kids now have a directive to say "OOHHH" whenever i hit a personal milestone in the build when i point out what i have done. The wife shakes her head, smirks, and follows suit, then shakes head again. I am satisfied.
  12. I just finished my build a few weeks ago, and was keeping a log that I was showing to a few of my friends. I'm going to move that over to this forum, and add to it as I make more modifications to my printer in the future. I decided against going with a kit because I knew I'd want to change parts right out of the gate, so I started a sourcing spreadsheet to keep track of pricing and who I was ordering from: Voron Parts Tracking.xlsx My parts started to arrive, so I started making piles: My printed parts were the last to arrive. When they did I started building: I started to feel a little intimidated at this point. All of the components were installed, but I didn't fully grasp how the electronics worked, and the documentation kind of died off in the build manual. I stared at this for a few days while I did some research on the controller board and raspberry pi: Once I had a better understanding of how things were supposed to come together, I simplified the electronics and removed the 5v power supply. I decided to go with the UART connection to the spider, to make the wiring look a little cleaner: I quickly realized my Dragon SF didn't come with a thermistor or heater cartridge. So, while I waited on that to arrive, I installed Fluidd as my web interface and started to become more familiar with the software components: Once I had my software setup and ready to installed my panels: Installed my thermistor and heater cartridge as soon as they arrived and ran my first test using PLA to print a Voron cube: I was so stoked at the quality that this had right out of the gate. I'll add my adventures with upgrades over all of the stock setup in an upcoming post.
  13. As Stated in the title, this will be my build dairy for my recently purchased Fysetc Kit from Aliexpress. You can see the unboxing images here... The Printed Parts While this is not my first or even 5th printer, this is me first Voron Build. I expect there to be bumps in the road, but it is a learning process. In efforts of getting started quickly, I purchased a complete set of printed parts from Discord User "joshmurrah#2391" - including all the cosmetics. Documentation Issues Last night I started the process of sorting items and thought I was missing a part - I reached out to Josh and he was super quick and helpful to indicate that the part pictured in the V2.4 manual is actually updated and was able to identify very quickly where the parts laid on my photograph of parts on my table. Kudos for the support from Josh - HIGHLY recommended! On page 23 of the current V2.4 Manual, the new part looks like this... For reference, this is a photo pf the current manuals rendition of the Motor mount... Sorting and ID After laying out all my parts, I grouped the items in 6 different bags to help with assembly ensuring that I didn't have to dig through ALL of the parts every-time I wanted to work on the printer build. Please follow this topic for updates and additional information on the build!
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