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  1. Well after confessing, in my intro, that amongst other sins I am lazy I have decided to pull my thumb out and get on and build my second Voron (0.1). Clearly the term "get on" is a relative one and should be viewed in context. Somewhere between the thermal heat-death of the universe and the half-life of Copernicium-235, I'll try and aim for better than Continental Drift as a good measure of progress. I spent last night inserting the heat-inserts into the necessary parts and managing to melt a couple and misalign a few others courtesy of my sausage fingers but fortunately Voron #1 came to the rescue and churned out the necessary replacement parts. For the purposes of this build, I'll be fitting the kirigami bed from the outset (much easier than a retrofit) and fitting an ADXL345 accelerometer. I have to confess that I utterly love the Resonance Compensation features of Klipper (saves printing a zillion test prints and never quite getting decently ghost free results). Clearly because I am still lazy I did not lay out all the parts for the printer
  2. Version 1.1.0

    2,431 downloads

    This toolhead scales down the body of the Stealthburner to a size which fits into a V0.1. Fully assembled it weighs about 120 grams less than the original. It is designed around the Bondtech LGX Lite extruder and has versions for the Phaetus Dragonfly, Dragon and Rapido HF hotends as well as a version to fit the Revo Voron hotend. It incorporates a status LED as well as two for print visibility. 22 Nov 2022: I have added new versions that should fit the Mosquito hotend. I cannot verify the fitment so if there are any issues please leave a comment. It uses a pair of 4010 blowers which I found to produce slightly more airflow than a 5015 blower while being notably less noisy and drawing less current. The depth of these fans do limit Y travel by 3mm on a V0.1 while the door is closed and tophat is on. The width of the main body at its base is also a very tight fit at the extremes of X travel. The shroud fits a 3007 hotend fan. The part cooling ducts of the original file act as a simple air dump similar to the mini-Afterburner. The 'alt_ducts' version is based on the Stealthburner ducts and provides a more restrictive but targeted airflow. This seems to give better cooling but I have not done any meaningful testing yet. This LGX Lite mini-stlb fits well in a V2.4 or Trident as the motor doesn't interfere with the path of the cable chain. There is a seperate 'strain_relief' stl for use in the V0.1. I have included a magnet mount and additional shroud .stl files to make this compatible with the ZeroClick mod. The included Blender file shows the entire assembly complete with screws and should answer most basic questions. Note on MGN-9 installation: The default 2mm x 10 plastic threading screw is too long for mounting the x-axis endstop. An M2 x 8 does the job fine. For mounting to the linear carriage use four M3 x 6 flat-head screws. Note: The MGN carriage shown is an MGN-9H, not the shorter MGN-9C used in the V0.1 mod. Preparation I recommend test fitting the extruder, LGX_lite_adapter_plate, PTFE tube and hotend into the shroud before running any wires to ensure that the PTFE tube length is correct and everything fits. It helps to chamfer the edge of the tube with a sharp blade so that it doesn't snag in the hotend. All three fans will need the wire retention piece clipped so the wires fit into the shroud channels easier. Use a small file to smooth out the break-off edges of the LED PCB and make sure the LED pockets are clear of 'droopy bits' Assembly Instructions After pressing the status LED diffuser into place, install the right part-cooling fan first by feeding the wires through the small hole at the bottom. Then feed the wires for the status LED and hotend fan through before starting to push the LED carrier into position. Carefully push the status LED carrier as far as it will go and then carefully press the fan into position while making sure not to pinch the part-cooling fan wires. Press the remaining LEDs into their slots. (I measure out 35mm of wire to connect these LEDs together) Here is another view also showing how the hotend fan wires fit through the hole on the side of the status LED carrier. Insert the second part-cooling fan and splice the wires together with the first fan. Install the hotend with at least two M2.5x6 screws (M3x6 for the Revo Voron). The heater cartridge should be installed away from the LEDs to avoid overheating them. Pre-assemble the extruder pieces before installing into the shroud. Use M3x30 screws to attach motor_bridge. Install the extruder with an M3x6 BHCS on the back and then an M3x12 from below. Ensure the cables are routed as flat to the shroud as possible and secure them with zip ties. Install the strain_relief or cable_chain_mount with two M3x8 screws and the cable_door with another M3x8 screw. Close the cable door with an M3x6 screw. Happy Printing!
  3. Version 1.1.5

    4,386 downloads

    This toolhead scales down the body of the Stealthburner to a size which fits into a V0.1. Fully assembled it weighs about 110 grams less than the original. It is designed around the Orbiter 2.0 extruder and has versions for the Phaetus Dragonfly, Dragon and Rapido HF hotends as well as a version to fit the Revo Voron hotend. It incorporates a status LED as well as two for print visibility. 22 Nov 2022: I have added new versions that should fit the Mosquito hotend. I cannot verify the fitment so if there are any issues please leave a comment. It uses a pair of 4010 blowers which I found to produce slightly more airflow than a 5015 blower while being notably less noisy and drawing less current. The depth of these fans do limit Y travel by 3mm on a V0.1 while the door is closed and tophat is on. The width of the main body at its base is also a very tight fit at the extremes of X travel. The part cooling ducts of the original file act as a simple air dump similar to the mini-Afterburner. The 'alt_ducts' version is based on the Stealthburner ducts and provides a more restrictive but targeted airflow. This seems to give better cooling but I have not done any meaningful testing yet. The 'minimal' version does not need the 'motor_bridge' or 'filament_lever' and gives finger access to the latch of the Orbiter 2.0. This Orbiter 2.0 m-stlb is a better fit than the Orbiter 1.5 m-stlb in a V2.4 or Trident as the motor no longer interferes with the path of the cable chain. There is a seperate 'strain_relief' stl for use in the V0.1. The included Blender file shows the entire assembly complete with screws and should answer most basic questions. Note on MGN-9 installation: The default 2mm x 10 plastic threading screw is too long for mounting the x-axis endstop. An M2 x 8 does the job fine. For mounting to the linear carriage use four M3 x 6 flat-head screws. Note: The MGN carriage shown is an MGN-9H, not the shorter MGN-9C used in the V0.1 mod. Assembly Instructions After pressing the status LED diffuser into place, install the right part-cooling fan first by feeding the wires through the small hole at the bottom. Then feed the wires for the status LED and hotend fan through before starting to push the LED carrier into position. Carefully push the status LED carrier as far as it will go and then carefully press the fan into position while making sure not to pinch the part-cooling fan wires. Press the remaining LEDs into their slots. (I measure out 35mm of wire to connect these LEDs together) Here is another view also showing where the hotend fan wires fit. Insert the second part-cooling fan and splice the wires together with the first fan. Install the hotend with at least two M2.5x6 screws. The heater cartridge should be installed away from the LEDs to avoid overheating them. (Don't forget the PTFE tube) Pre-assemble the extruder pieces before installing into the shroud. Use two M3x8 BHCS to install the Orbiter 2.0 extruder. It helps to have both screws in the Orbiter before putting it in place. Start the screw by the latch and then the blind screw should be easier to align. Gather all of the wires together with a zip-tie next to the base of the Orbiter latch and then use another zip-tie to secure the wires to the motor-bridge. Leave a little slack in the extruder wires. Install the strain_relief or cable_chain_mount with two M3x6/8 screws and the cable_door with a M3x10/12 screw. Close the cable door with a M3x6 screw and screw in the extruder tensioning thumb screw. Happy Printing!
  4. I am starting my V0.1 today (prints) but it will be the first printer I build now, my v2.4's need to wait, its my turn now... Deecided on this MOD for a raised Tophat. https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/golas/v0-extended-tophat-hinge It will probably bite me in the ass at some point, but lets see! Printing the Tophat in one piece right now, you dont have a 350 build plate just for show, right?
  5. Version 2021.08.24

    77 downloads

    Voron0 MidPanel with Hex pattern print settings: layer height: 0.2mm color change at 0.6mm / 2.2mm V0.1 hardware: 4 x M3x8 BHCS 4 x M3 nut V0.0: Compatibility: Pocketwatch Z Belt mod hardware: 8 x M3x6 BHCS 8 x M3 Threaded Insert 4 x M3x8 BHCS 4 x M3 nut
  6. Version 1.1.4

    2,012 downloads

    This toolhead scales down the body of the Stealthburner to a size which fits into a V0.1. Fully assembled it weighs about 80 grams less than the original. It is designed around the Orbiter 1.5 extruder and has versions for the Phaetus Dragonfly, Dragon and Rapido HF hotends as well as a version to fit the Revo Voron hotend. It incorporates a status LED as well as two for print visibility. 22 Nov 2022: I have added new versions that should fit the Mosquito hotend. I cannot verify the fitment so if there are any issues please leave a comment. It uses a pair of 4010 blowers which I found to produce slightly more airflow than a 5015 blower while being notably less noisy and drawing less current. The depth of these fans do limit Y travel by 3mm on a V0.1 while the door is closed and tophat is on. The width of the main body at its base is also a very tight fit at the extremes of X travel. I have raised my tophat by 20mm which gives the cabling and filament tube plenty of room to breathe. I have also installed this on my Trident. The included files do not address cable management on a Trident or V2.4 but do provide mounting to the MGN12 carriage. The cable chain on a Trident or V2.4 would have to be moved back at least 5mm to clear the extruder stepper motor. The part cooling ducts of the original file act as a simple air dump similar to the mini-Afterburner. The 'alt_ducts' version is based on the Stealthburner ducts and provides a more restrictive but targeted airflow. This seems to give better cooling but I have not done any meaningful testing yet. The included Blender file shows the entire assembly complete with screws and should answer most basic questions. Note on MGN-9 installation: The default 2mm x 10 plastic threading screw is too long for mounting the x-axis endstop. An M2 x 8 does the job fine. For mounting to the linear carriage use four M3 x 6 flat-head screws. Rapido HF Note: The MGN carriage shown is an MGN-9H, not the shorter MGN-9C used in the V0.1 mod. Assembly Instructions After pressing the status LED diffuser into place, install the right part-cooling fan first by feeding the wires through the small hole at the bottom. Then feed the wires for the status LED and hotend fan through before starting to push the LED carrier into position. Carefully push the status LED carrier as far as it will go and then carefully press the fan into position while making sure not to pinch the part-cooling fan wires. Press the remaining LEDs into their slots. (I measure out 35mm of wire to connect these LEDs together) Here is another view also showing where the hotend fan wires fit. Insert the second part-cooling fan and splice the wires together with the first fan. Install the hotend with at least two M2.5x6 screws. The heater cartridge should be installed away from the LEDs to avoid overheating them. Gather the wires together and secure them with the first zip-tie. (it helps to insert a snipped zip-tie through the the hole and yank it through with pliers to remove printing artifacts from inside of the channels) Loop the wire bundle back around and add in the LED and hotend fan wires. Use two more zip-ties to secure everything in place. ENSURE to leave room for the extruder by lifting the loop of wires up and out of the way as shown. More space is much better than not enough. (Don't forget the PTFE tube) Pre-assemble the extruder pieces before installing into the shroud. Use two M3x8 BHCS to install the Orbiter 1.5 extruder. It helps to have both screws in the Orbiter before putting it in place. Start the screw by the latch and then the blind screw should be easier to align. Gather all of the wires together and then use a zip-tie to secure them to the motor-bridge. Leave a little slack in the extruder wires. Install the strain_relief with two M3x6/8 screws and the cable_door with a M3x10/12 screw. Close the cable door with a M3x6 screw and screw in the extruder tensioning thumb screw. Happy Printing!
  7. Version 2021.10.06

    595 downloads

    Based on HeVort extruder( By MirageC with Big thanks to Him on this awesome design ) How to print supported parts to VOV0 tool-head https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkwsMm29IuA Print Setting download the pre-supported .3mf file choose for support enforce only 3 perimeters 5 solid top 5 Bottom layers BOM BMG kit 2x M3X8mm 2x M3X10mm Button head 2x M3X40mm (FanDuct) 2x M3X25mm 1x M3X20mm 2x dragon / mosquito 2.5mm screws 7x heat brass insert (BOM insert) /// LDO Nema 14 Motor https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005002900085330.html /// BMG Kit with and without motor https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005002487451377.html /// Plastic PTFE Bowden fitting https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005002487819739.html /// M3 Heat insert https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/4000761483243.html Appreciate my work ? buy me a coffee https://www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=9EL8CEDVY28DA thank you and happy printing
  8. Got the last box (for now) of parts in the post earlier in the week - a PIF kit from Slidr over on Discord, and there was some time late this week to get the build started! Spent last night cleaning and greasing the linear rails & fitting them to the required extrusions & building the bed carrier. Looked over my work this evening and 3 of the 4 Y/Z rails were in the wrong side of each extrusion... Hopefully that will teach me not to work on it late in the evening! Thought I'd have a problem getting the Z rails trammed, but a glass-ceramic stovetop was flat enough to sort that out. Hopefully it'll be accurate enough, but we'll see when I get around to tuning I suppose. I'm building with a Formbot kit - and the M3 screws are unfortunately quite soft - I've partially stripped two of them already. Both on blind joints, but tapping a T8 screwdriver into the chewed up screwhead seems to have been enough to get them to loosen off. I caution people against using ball-head hex keys too much with the formbot kit, It'll lead to headaches. Aside from that, the kit parts look great. Don't have to worry about sourcing a Pi as I've an old 3B lying around from years ago that I plan to use.
  9. Am i the only one, who didn´t want to rip the printer apart, just to "preload" another few nuts into these 1515 extrusions? Let´s open new horizons with the smallest mod ever All you need are 4-sided M3 Nuts (the flat ones) 5.5x5.5x1.8mm (like DIN 562), one standard nut and a very long M3 screw (and some kind of grinder of course). 1st screw the standard nut onto the screw (leave 2-3mm of the thread sticking out. Then mount the flat nut, don´t let the thread stick out and lock the two nuts together. What you have now is just a "tool" to securely hold the nut against a grinding tool (bench grinder, belt grinder, even a dremel will do...). Grind a bevel (around 45°) on two opposite sides of the nut, "unlock" it and you´re ready to go... Just drop it into the extrusion (bevels facing down) Maybe this saves some hours of time and keeps some printers alive
  10. Received three packages from Frombot (Voron 2.4 350mm, Trident 250mm Voron 0 ), as I decided I was going to see what it was like building a kit rather than self sourcing everything as in the previous 3 builds, and comparing the kit form to a self sourced build. The Voron 0 packaging was secure and well packaged. Happy to have received the Moons motors. The controlled board was a BTT SKR 3 mini v3. And No Raspi pi. Luckily I have some spare.
  11. Version 1.0.0

    82 downloads

    I created this as a way to prevent filament from getting into the electronics bay via the space around the z-rod. This screws in place of the two z liner rail stops so you can use the existing nuts to mount it. per design, it is a snug fit, but allows for clearance around the z-rod so as not to hinder its movement. The face of this should be printed down and I only allowed supports for the holes. Please let me know what you think about this or if you'd like to see any changes.
  12. Version 1.0.1

    340 downloads

    This mod started out as a remix of the TophatHingeV0.1 mod by Demosth. To gain extra space for the extruder, bowden tube and cables I modified the four upper corner A/B Frame/Idler pieces. This raises the upper 1515 alu-profile pieces by 20mm so installing the standard tophat (or a hinged tophat) is functionally the same as with a stock V0.1. The most notable visual difference from a stock V0.1 is the extra space above the gantry. I made up the extra height by adding 20mm tall strips of 3mm thick plexiglass at the bottom of the front and side panels. This mod would be easy to stretch and gain 10 or 20mm more if needed. I 'borrowed' the extra plexiglass from my back panel pieces. In the LDO kit, they ship two separate pieces of dark glass for the back panel. The smaller one is meant to close off the print chamber and the larger one is meant to cover the lower electronics bay. With this mod the smaller piece is no longer large enough so it is necessary to use the larger one at the top. I have included .stl files to install this with the stock tophat, as well as modified .stl files from Demosth's mod. For the hinged version of this mod, I have also included my latching solution for the front of the tophat. The left and right Tophat_Front_Clips allow one to slide a thumb screw in to secure the top in place. The tophat_nut_catch just provides somewhere to stow the thumbscrew when the top is open (as shown in the pictures). I used the no-drop nut mod to make the square nut easier to manage. NOTE: The original A/B Drive_Frame_Upper files that I uploaded had the back heat set insert hole in the wrong location. I have uploaded the correct version of these .slt files. (21 OCT 2022)
  13. Version 1.0.0

    168 downloads

    This belted-z mod is designed to be as small as possible. It uses the LDO-36STH17 geared pancake stepper from the extruder that comes with the LDO V0.1 kit. This allows it to fit completely below the printer and not take any space from the electronics area on the back of the printer. The 5:1 gearing of the 20t GT-2 pulley maintains the same 8mm rotation_distance as the stock z-leadscrew. I was able to increase my z-homing speed to 50mm/sec while lowering the current to 0.25A for the Z motor. The build plate will usually drop when the stepper enable is turned off. B.O.M. 1 - LDO-36STH17 or OMC 14HR07-1004VRN 10 tooth geared pancake stepper 1 - 50T geared 5mm shaft (from Mini Afterburner extruder kit) (alternate source) 1 - 20T GT-2 pulley (5mm bore) 2 - MR85 bearing 2 - F695 flanged bearing 1 - M5 x 1mm shim spacer 3 - M3x8 BHCS 3 - M3 square nuts 2 - M3x12 BHCS 2 - M3x35 BHCS 1 - M5x16 BHCS 5 - printed parts (required) 1 - printed part (optional) 6 - M3 threaded heat inserts When installing this mod I only had to pull out the bottom panel to access the screws holding the Z motor with lead screw. Installation of the new components was all done from the bottom and front of the printer. I have included a Blender file to show the overall assembly of this mod.
  14. I've had a Prusa MK3 for around three years and a Prusa Mini for about two years; I was going to get a an XL but saw the light (Hallelujah) and got a an LDO Voron 0.1 kit from onetwo3d instead. It was on order for about 4 weeks and arrived two days ago. The only bit I've taken out of the kit, so far, is the heat thread inserts tool. I'm going with Sunlu blue ABS and eSun black ABS+. I've printed some stuff while I've been waiting - most of the Top Hat, all the bits for the frame and am currently printing more blue stuff. I was a bit nervous of printing ABS, but I had a light tent for the MK3S so I thought I'd give it go with that, always with the fallback of buying the printed parts. I started using a Kores glue stick on a Prusa brand textured plate, which worked ok, but difficult to get the coating even. I've now moved to a diluted (2 parts water, 1 part glue) Kores liquid PVA. A scant brush tip full will usually do all the area I need. It spreads evenly and washes off fine with hot soap water. But the ABS fumes are uncomfortable, not too smelly, but throat challenging and headachy. My playroom is an upstairs bedroom, to which I keep the door shut when printing. Nonetheless the whole upstairs gets quite a dose of the ABS fumes. So, I though I'd print the Nevermore Carbon Filter V4 and have today put that in the MK3S tent on a very posh wooden mount with a piece of cardboard under it to help it keep upright I'm using a not-so-powerful 2 pin connection fan at the moment, but after just this afternoon as a trial, it does seem better, at least the upstairs feels ok now. I've got a more powerful fan on it's way from China - I'll reprint the fan cowling for it in black I think, before it moves to Mr Voron. My Prusa took me ages to build, I took it slowly and it took about a month to complete. I did start this Voron project in a rush, but have slowed down (just a bit) now - I intend to enjoy the build. I've started a spread sheet as a build and print guide, I want to be able to start each section, Prusa style, knowing I've got all the bits that I need to complete it in front of me. I also printed a bracket for a Logitech C270 camera - I'm trying to anticipate any "extra" m3 nuts required in the frame to attach bits like a camera mount, Nevermore Fan mount, maybe handles. I'd really appreciate any suggestions I'll probably finish printing all the Blue Bits tomorrow, and then next week I'll have a go at building The Frame All suggestions and encouragement welcome. This diary building feels very therapeutic, better by far than boring the whatever's off of mates down the pub, but I'll probably do that as well
  15. Hi all, Thanks for the warm welcome in the intro section! Appreciate it! just received the Formbot kit. Shipped super fast. Ordered from their website, not AliExpress. There were some surprises in the box. 1. SKR Mini E3 V3.0 board. I was expecting the 2.0 2. All Moons motors, not just the extruder. 3. No JST connector kit or wire. They included the Umbilical Mod. Threw me off. Now I need to research how to do it. There is an umbilical section on the GitHub, plus some extra STL parts I need to print. Looks interesting. Adds plugs for both part fans also, so no need to splice. inventory going on now. Will update soon.
  16. Formbot kit. (Dragon HF hotend) Planning to do the Mini AfterSherpa/Sailfin for my print head, mostly because I really want to be able to get to the large plastic gear to manually advance/retract filament when loading and unloading. I have that on my modified prusa (via a bondtech bmg) and I don't want to go back to not having it. Bought parts for the Umbilical (https://deepfriedhero.in/products/voron-v0-umbillical-and-rear-connector-boards?_pos=2&_psq=umbilical&_ss=e&_v=1.0) but not sure how to get the board pointed straight up given that the sailfin turns the extruder motor sideways. went ahead and built the extruder/hotend without the umbilical for now, since the kit has most of the wires already made, and I'd have had to redo them for the umbilical, anyway. I'll save that mod for the first time I want to change out the extruder (and get annoyed that I have to open up the whole cable bundle to do so). Bought a fan an some (supposedly non acidic) charcoal for a nevermore, so went ahead and printed the parts and put that together while waiting for my kit to arrive. Main parts printed in Fusion Filaments Geomagnetic Mauve Accent parts printed in Atomic Filament Neon Green UV Reactive ABS Black parts printed in Atomic black ABS Other mods/things I'm considering: Per https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3_A5d-1Vq4 an additional thermistor (for measuring build chamber temp) can be connected to SPI GND+MOSI pins. That seems useful enough to do. https://www.printables.com/model/146877-voron-0-voron-01-raspberry-pi-camera-mount I'm spoiled having cameras on all my octoprint instances. I'm probably going to want a camera on this printer, too. Though I'm new to klipper, I've seen mention of using cameras with it, so I'll figure it out. https://voronregistry.com/mods/quackprofit-v0adafruitneopixelledmounts Well, if I'm going to have a camera, I'm probably going to need some lights, so why not go a little extra? Kit delivered, and I got all the accent parts printed (since that filament showed up first). Went ahead and built a nevermore filter while I'm at it, since I expect to be using this printer to print ABS and whatnot. I found a link to that cable channel model somewhere in the voron community, but can't for the life of me find it now. The picture I saw was it fitting in a V0.1, so I'm hoping I can find a place to put it and help manage the cable mess that printers always become. Put the extruder/hotend together to make sure I had all the pieces I need. Not sure where I'm supposed to get a different carriage, since this one has a curve in the top that doesn't line up to where the motor actually is on the sailfin, but whatever, it doesn't obstruct anything, so I'll keep it this way for now until I find or design a different carriage. + Tip: The PEI stickers from Prusa for their Mk3 steel sheets are big enough to make exactly four PEI stickers for a bed the size of the voron 0. Since my flex plate came with textured PEI on one side, but bare metal on the other side, and I had a couple spares of these, the bare side got a PEI sticker to give me options for a print surface. Progress on the actual printer build. Having done the bed frame, i now understand why people buy the stamped metal ones. Lining up the nuts for those 8 screws was the most time consuming thing I've done so far on this thing. And more parts printing (the angle of the camera is exagerating the warp, but yes, those parts are warping. This enclosure is a little too big to heat up well, so I probably need to avoid having parts near the edge of the print bed. We'll see in an hour when this set is done if these will be usable, or if they're scrap. Other errata: The printer above is actually my second Prusa mk3 (a mk3s+ to be specific). I printed all the green parts, black parts, and the first batch of purple on my first mk3, but it's old and struggling. I was having extrusion issues (unable to tune for temp or extrusion modifier effectively) when I checked the nozzle and found it was hollowed out to about .6 by years of printing abrasives (it's hardened tool steel, but even that has limits). Then, after replacing the nozzle and getting it printing much better, it had a temperature panic and reset during a print job. I tried to run a PID tune, thinking that ABS prints hotter than the CFPETG I usually run through it, so maybe tuning was in order, when I saw fumes coming off the nozzle during the heatup/PID tune. At first I thought it was steam and the filament was wet, but then I saw the temp go from 245 to 280 in about a second and a half, and realized two things almost instantly: a. My thermistor is dying/failing/flaking. b. That wasn't steam, it was smoke, and I was burning filament. So I quickly reset the printer and opened a window to keep my smoke detectors from going nuts (the camera is close to the nozzle, so the actual amount of smoke was small, but I was definitely burning the filament. ABS doesn't smell pleasant on a good day, but I had to air out that room for a while to be comfortable going in there. So yeah, I guess my old mk3 needs some love before it's going to be doing big print jobs again. Hopefully I get the V0 up and running soon, and it can fill in for now until rebuild the hot end (I was getting annoyed at the PINDA probe, anyway, since printing at ABS temps starts to get to the point where the PINDA messes up its reading and your nozzle height gets screwy. The new generation (Super PINDA) on the mk3s+ has no trouble levelling the bed even after heating up for 20 minutes to try to get the enclosure to a decent temp. (Well, I say that, but the picture above does show the parts curling, so obviously the enclosure didn't get as warm as I'd like). Okay, that's probably enough for now. That batch is almost done on the printer, so I can check the parts and do some more assembly if they're usable.
  17. Hello everyone, I will try to share with you this big adventure of my first Voron build and self-sourcing in the same time. I had watched a lot of videos about this printer. My favorite (for the moment) are : Greg's Maker Corner Voron 0.1 Playlist ModBot : Why I Am Building A Voron 3d Printer (And Why You May Want To) 247 Printing : VORON0.1 Kits COMPAIRED: PARTS and BUILD Experience (PART 1) To find LDO resellers, I just take a look here and I had placed my first orders at Caribou3d in Germany and Lecktor in Estonia. My surprise is that European resellers are cheaper than Aliexpress for the frame for example. And with those LDO products (frame + all stepper motors), I hope I'm starting with a strong base. In return, you have to pay shipping. Other surprise, for the main board, I have choosen a BBT SKR Pico board and its price on Big Tree Tech web site is 30% less (shipping included) than in Aliexpress. To be continued ...
  18. Version 1.0.0

    327 downloads

    This is a flip down TFT50 screen mount for the Voron V0.1. It's still a work in progress but it works and allows the screen to fold down so the door can be opened.
  19. Version 1.1.0

    1,453 downloads

    Converts the current Voron v0.1 panel mounting parts into easily removeable magnetic mounts. Perfect for switching between ABS/PLA without the hassle of unscrewing everytime. Mounts using the basic m3x8 hardware that the original parts mounted with. Included are the files for a spacer to fill the gap between the frame and the panels to help with heat loss, this is not needed but will help. I have installed some 12mmx6mm adhesive draft excluder found easily on amazon. You will need to print 8 of each "part 1" and "part 2" to fit each side, they will not totally fill the gap, there is a small space left on the top and bottom to allow gripping the panel to remove it. Required hardware: 16x m3x8 (original hardware) 16x m3 nut (original hardware) 16x 8mmx2mm neodymium magnets (You can source easy enough, but here is a link to the ones i have used from UK Amazon; https://www.amazon.co.uk/Magnet-Expert%C2%AE-8mm-thick-Neodymium/dp/B007JTL25M/ref=sr_1_2?crid=VG4LDUUBDICR&keywords=8mmx2mm+magnet&qid=1647471673&sprefix=8mmx2mm+magnet%2Caps%2C48&sr=8-2 ) Optional hardware: 2m 6mm thick adhesive draft excluder 32x m3x8 32x m3 nut
  20. I recently decided to upgrade my V0.1 extruder to the LGX Lite, but I've run into a strange issue. I purchased the Bondtech mini after upgrade kit (https://www.bondtech.se/product/mini-after-lgx-lite-upgrade-kit-for-voron-v0/), but upon installation, I noticed that the hotend (Phaetus Dragon HF) positioning leaves the nozzle approx. 6mm further back than the original mini afterburner. Whenever I home the y axis, the nozzle sits behind the bed, and the nozzle cannot reach the front of the bed. I've tried to think of/find solutions for the issue, but all I can think of is changing the bed mounting system. Is this a common issue to have with the lgx lite and/or am I missing something?
  21. Version 1.0.1

    69 downloads

    I created Mount that combines the BTT Pico and Pi that mounts to the back frame using the existing holes in the back panel. Also, a lot of the wiring can be managed under the pi as I lifted it from the back panel. I added photo's of my electronics layout in my v0.1 .
  22. Version 1.0.0

    73 downloads

    This is a mod to use 30x30x10 hot end Fan. For me it's very hard to get 30x30x07 fans, I can get just in aliexpress or other china stores. Where I live its so easy get 30x30x10 fans, so I create this mods.
  23. Version 4.2.2022

    630 downloads

    DooMini This is Voron 0.1 mod that improves the insulation of the printer by using double glazed panels and minimal hardware. The New planes help you print full bed size ABS without ever worrying about warping. I get almost 60c chamber temperature with DooMini. (The temperatures are measured at the base of the chamber which is usually the coldest area). Almost forgot ... it looks way Cooler For All STL file as we as manual and instructions visit https://github.com/TigranDesigner/Voron-Mods/tree/main/DooMini or download directly here.
  24. Version 2022.03.31

    1,121 downloads

    This is an intermediate/advanced configuration, it's recommended to first build your Voron to the stock configuration That way, you will be better familiarized with the concepts that are presented here and will have a much more enjoyable experience. With an integrated mount, the bed can be fully used during printing, the bed only cannot be probed (at most) 6mm on the left side, this is due to the design of the probe, that extends below the nozzle. There are currently two other probes available to use on the V0.1, Slideswipe and Sideswipe. Above all, have fun and be excellent to one another, the instructions on how to install and setup the klicky probe for Vorondesign V0(.1) can be found [here](https://github.com/jlas1/Klicky-Probe/tree/main/Printers/Voron/v0), or below on this download For me, and for a lot of users, it is working very well, if you decide to use it, give me feedback, either here, or on discord, my discord user is JosAr#0517. By standing on the shoulders of giants, let's see if we can see further. Mounting options Probe dock mount The probe dock is mounted to the front right extrusion, where it minimizes the chance of being removed inadvertently during printing, like this: There are several mounting options, depending on your setup: It can be frustrating on the v0 to add extra m3 nuts on the 1515 extrusion after the assembly is complete, so there are several screwless probe dock options to avoid that scenario. Screwless variable Fixed Fixed extrabeef Top screws Side screws recommended for most setups, does not require extra m3 nuts on the extrusion (v0.0/1) fixed position, does not require extra m3 nuts on the extrusion (v0.1) fixed, fits X carriages that are 2mm thicker, does not require extra m3 nuts on the extrusion(v0.1) fixed, requires 2 extra m3 nuts on the top extrusion (v0.1) fixed, requires 2 extra m3 nuts on the front extrusion (v0.1) There are also some more mounting options on Usermods, like a servo powered dock. Check it out Probe toolhead mount The v0 toolhead was not designed to use a probe, so there is no inbuilt location to add one, so i designed two options for the v0.1 variant and one for the original v0. Front cowling mount (v0.1) You can install a mount the attaches to the front of the toolhead cowling, it will need 2/3mm of X space on the front right of the bed to avoid picking the probe up by accident, it is very easy to install, it's ideal to test the concept of probing on the v0.1 You will require 2x M3 x 40mm (BHSC preferably) that are not on the V0(.1) BOM, there is an included wire path with zip tie support, to keep your printer looking good. Integrated cowling (v0.1) You can replace the cowling with a version that has a cutout to allow the klicky mount to attach, it has no impact on the cooling performance of the probe, it also includes a wire path to the back of the miniAB. This method allow mounting of different probes on the V0.1, currently only klicky uses this mount, hopefully that can change in the future. It also allows to pick up the probe at X121, effectively outside the bed, incurring in a no print space lost. Fan duct mount (v0.0) On the V0.0, you do not need to reprint the entire cowlink, you only need to replace the right fan duct with a version that has a mount for klicky, it has no impact on the cooling performance of the probe, it also includes a wire path to the back of the miniAB. This version has seen little tests because of the lack of a sufficient number of v0.0 to test on. If you end up using this version, please tell me at what X do you dock and attach the probe. It is also necessary to use the Screwless variable dock mount Bill of Materials (BOM) Tools: 1.5mm Drill (optional) Multimeter to check for Continuity Super Glue (optional) Soldering Iron Probe: 1x microswitch (the omron D2F-5 or D2F-5L (removing the lever is required), other also work with reduced accuracy or repeatability (mostly anecdotal evidence, needs a proper sudy) 2x M2x10 mm self tapping 10cm of 22AWG cable (to wire the magnets to the switch) 5x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets (N35 magnets work) Probe mount: Front cowling mount (v0.1) Integrated cowling mount (v0.1) Fan duct mount (v0.0) 4x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets (N35 magnets work) 4x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets (N35 magnets work) 4x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets (N35 magnets work) 2x 20cm 22AWG cable (to connect the Klicky Probe to the umbilical termination point) 2x 20cm 22AWG cable (to connect the Klicky Probe to the umbilical termination point) 2x 20cm 22AWG cable (to connect the Klicky Probe to the umbilical termination point) two wires to connect the controller to the extruder motor vicinity two wires to connect the controller to the extruder motor vicinity two wires to connect the controller to the extruder motor vicinity 2x M3 x 40mm BHSC 1x M3x6 mm BHSC Screw 1x M3x6 mm BHSC Screw 1x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx4 mm 2x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx4 mm Probe dock: 1x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets (N35 magnets work) 2x M3x16 mm Probe dock mounts: Screwless variable (v0.0/1) Fixed (v0.1) Fixed extrabeef (v0.1) Top screws (v0.1) Side screws (v0.1) 2x m3 nut 2x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx4 mm 2x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx4 mm 2x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx4 mm 2x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx4 mm 2x m3x8 mm 2x m3x8 mm Sourcing To get the best experience, please consider purchasing from the trusted list of suppliers bellow. trusted suppliers list Parts location The probe STL's are located here. The printer specific STL's are located here. The CAD with all the parts are here. What to print Probe 2x KlickyProbe_Long_v2.stl (keeping a spare is always a good idea) The KlickyProbe_v2.stl is also compatible, but has a different Y offset and cannot probe all the bed. Helpers to pressfit the probe magnet Probe_magnet_pressfit_helper.stl Probe_magnet_holder.stl Longer_probe_pressfit_helper.stl Probe mount Front cowling mount (v0.1) Integrated cowling mount (v0.1) Fan duct mount (v0.0) Front_cowling_mount.stl MiniAB_Dragon_Cowling_wKlicky.stl V0_Fan_duct_wKlicky.stl v0.1_integrated_mount.stl v0.1_integrated_mount.stl v0_integrated_mount.stl There are also other integrated cowlings, check the [STL] folder, namely, the Serpa_Mini_Dragon_Cowling_wKlicky.stl from Kyrios and the LGX Lite cowling from Bondtech. Probe dock Probe_Dock_v2.stl Probe dock mounts Screwless variable (v0.0/1) Fixed (v0.1) Fixed extrabeef (v0.1) Top screws (v0.1) Side screws (v0.1) DockMount_variable.stl DockMount_fixed.stl DockMount_extrabeef.stl DockMount_TopScrews.stl DockMount_SideScrews.stl Printing instructions Recommended printing settings: initial layer height:0,24 layer height: 0.2mm bottom/top/perimeters: 4 infill: more than 23% infill type: Cubic Thin walls: On It was tested and printed with ABS, might work on other materials, if you try, let me know how it worked out. Typical V0.1 components (the images with the green background were provided by user SunB#1489 and are being used with permission). Assembly Step 1 - Dock mount and Probe Dock assembly In this examples, the Fixed dock will be used. 2x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx 4 mm 1x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets 2x M3x16 mm Super Glue Here we will use the Fixed dock as an example, the other docks are very similar. Install your heat set threaded inserts like you did within your Voron build. Install the magnet in the Probe dock, make sure that the magnet is fully inserted, it's top should be below the plastic. Screw the dock onto the Dock mount with the two M3x16mm screws. Secure the magnet with a dab of super glue (not a lot, just a drop). Mount the Probe Dock to the front right extrusion, snap first on the front extrusion, then on the top one (do this after assembling the probe). Step 2: Probe Assembly For the probe assembly you need the following parts: 1x microswitch 2x M2x10 mm self tapping 5x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets 10cm of 22AWG cable 1.5mm Drill (optional) Multimeter to check for Continuity Super Glue Maybe you need to clear the holes for the microswitch, a 1.5mm drill bit should work fine. Install the microswitch so that the arrow on the probe body is pointing to the little switch. The best way to install the back magnet is to attach a magnet to the probe dock and slide the probe on the dock to insert some distance and the insert he remaining with a tool, it should be slightly below the plastic. Then take your self tapping screws and screw the microswitch in place, you should also now solder the wires to the outside pins of the switch, that way making this a Normally Connected probe. You should place the wires cover outside the ducts to the magnets and install them in the space below the magnets, more like the right wire is on the image below. You want to install the magnets in the way that the ones which are connected to the microswitch, have the same polarity. Before placing the switch magnets, use some super glue on the holes (not a lot, just a drop), avoid the wires and the top of the magnets. The 3rd magnets (there are two) should have the inverse polarity, wait until the system is complete and assembled before gluing the magnets, they might need adjustment to ensure a good fit on the mount. You can use the included pressfit helpers to help in securing the probe when you are inserting the magnets. There is no need for soldering, the probe microswitch connectors are press-fit on the magnets, they should remain with the top above the probe plastic. As the last step of the probe assembly check if you have continuity between two magnets that connect to the switch. If you have a normally closed switch (as you should), then you should have a current flow, so continuity is established. When you press the switch you should lose continuity. When you have a normally open switch then the behavior is the other way around. Step 3: Probe mount Assembly In this example, the Front cowling mount will be used. For the Front cowling mount assembly you need the following parts 4x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets 2 x 20cm 22AWG cable to connect the Klicky Probe to the Mircofit Terminal two wires to connect the controller to the extruder motor vicinity some microfit or JST hardware 2x M3 x 40mm BHSC Multimeter to check for Continuity Super Glue The probe mount wires are also connected with pressure from the magnets, you can use the probe magnets as a template to insert the probe mount magnets, it is easier that way, so that the magnets are not inserted the wrong way. again, before placing the wire magnets, use some super glue on the holes (not a lot, just a drop), avoid the wires and the top of the magnets. The 3rd magnets (there are two) should have the inverse polarity, exacly like on the probe. Wait until the system is complete and assembled before gluing the 3rd magnets, they might need adjustment to ensure a good fit on the probe. (The mount has since been improved a bit to avoid cracking) After everything is assembled let's check again for continuity, this time joining the ends of the cable and testing connectivity on the two wire magnets that have a cable. Step 4: Probe Mount installation and wiring For the installation you need the following parts: 2x M3x40 mm BHSC Screws Route the probe mount cables to near the end of the V0 umbilical, install a male terminal in there. Before going further, please turn off the printer, the SKR boards are very picky with short circuits. Connect a female terminal to the wires that will run in the umbilical from the toolhead to the controller. Connect the wires from the Klicky Probe to the Zprobe port, on GND and PC14 bin (I reused the LDO kit connector) When testing the docking and attachment of the probe, make sure that the back magnet of the probe and the dock magnet do not touch, if they do, it will make attaching the probe much harder. Step 5: klipper configuration Unfortunately, I do not know how to document RRF probe configuration, so here is only Klipper configurations. As of right now, klipper and RRF have no inbuilt support for a removable probe, fortunately, it does support very robust macro programming, so you will need to add macros to be able to dock and attach the probe as necessary, as well as supporting the rest of the functions that require the usage of a probe. The macros and instructions on how to configure are located on the Macro directory, you need to check that before continuing on the build, there are also some RRF scripts that work for the Voron V2.4. For the Voron v0, these are the recommended configuration on the klicky-variables.cfg: variable_verbose: True # Enable verbose output variable_travel_speed: 100 # how fast all other travel moves will be performed when running these macros variable_dock_speed: 50 # how fast should the toolhead move when docking the probe for the final movement variable_release_speed: 55 # how fast should the toolhead move to release the hold of the magnets after docking variable_z_drop_speed: 20 # how fast the z will lower when moving to the z location to clear the probe variable_safe_z: 25 # Minimum Z for attach/dock and homing functions # if true it will move the bed away from the nozzle when Z is not homed variable_enable_z_hop: True # True v0 #Dock move Variable_dockmove_x: 0 # Final toolhead movement to release Variable_dockmove_y: 40 # the probe on the dock Variable_dockmove_z: 0 # (can be negative) #Attach move Variable_attachmove_x: 30 # Final toolhead movement to Dock Variable_attachmove_y: 0 # the probe on the dock Variable_attachmove_z: 0 # (can be negative) variable_max_bed_x: 120 # maximum Bed size avoids doing a probe_accuracy outside the bed variable_max_bed_y: 120 # maximum Bed size avoids doing a probe_accuracy outside the bed The sections below should be added to klicky-specific.cfg, that way, it will be loaded on klipper via a klicky-probe.cfg include. If you would like to use a bed mesh, this is the recommended settings: [bed_mesh] mesh_min: 15,15 mesh_max: 105,105 speed: 100 horizontal_move_z: 20 probe_count: 3,3 #if you would like more detail, use 5,5 here relative_reference_index: 4 #if you use 5,5 above, place 12 here move_check_distance: 3 algorithm: lagrange fade_start: 1 fade_end: 10 fade_target: 0 split_delta_z: 0.0125 mesh_pps: 2,2 Regarding the Screws Tilt Adjust (Klipper probes the three screws positions and recommends the number of turns to level the bed), you can use this configuration as a reference, the probe should be over the screws when you do send the nozzle to the respective coordinate: [screws_tilt_adjust] screw1: 100,115 #For Long probe screw1_name: back right screw2: 0,115 #For Long probe screw2_name: back left screw3: 60,5 #For Long probe screw3_name: front screw horizontal_move_z: 20 speed: 100 screw_thread: CW-M3 You should test this and adjust accordingly. This is probe configuration is with the default Voron v0.1 SKR mini E3 v2 configuration, with the probe connected to the PC14 pin, please update it to your specific configuration: [probe] #with Long Klicky Probe pin: ^PC14 x_offset: 8 #(9.5 with front cowling) y_offset: 0 z_offset: 14.5 speed: 7 lift_speed: 7 samples: 3 samples_result: median sample_retract_dist: 2 samples_tolerance: 0.01 samples_tolerance_retries: 10 I recommend a probing speed between 5mm/s and 10mm/s, you may experiment to see what is the better speed for your machine. Please confirm that if you are not using a endstop pin, that the pull-up is enable by using the ^ sign, normally the endstop pins have a hardware solution that does not require this configuration. Depending on your switch you may need to add a ! to invert that pin (normally open vs. normally closed). Z endstop and Probe configuration If you want to use the Klicky Probe as your Z endstop, you need to change the endstop_pin: under the [stepper_z] section to probe:z_virtual_endstop. Just comment out the old one and add a new line endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop. You will need to update the Z probing variables, set the two variables below to 0, it will probe the middle of the bed. variable_z_endstop_x: 0 variable_z_endstop_y: 0 Assembled Klicky Probe Step 6: klipper Dock/Undock configuration X max position adjustment Even in the stock X endstop with a lever, you normally can add a extra mm of X travel due to the lever extra trigger distance: [stepper_x] position_endstop: 120 position_max: 121 Adjust Probe Pickup Position One of the last things we need to do is to adjust the probe pickup position. Make sure that the x and y axis are homed and the probe is manually attached to mount. Now manually (with gcode commands) move the toolhead to the probe dock and move it so far to the back that the probe docks, note the Y-Position. Next, again manually, move the toolhead parallel to the probe dock until the probe it is perfectly aligned with the mount, note the X.Position. Open your klicky-variables.cfg and find the #dock location section and edit the following two line variable_docklocation_x: variable_docklocation_y: Test now with the ATTACH_PROBE and DOCK_PROBE if it docks and is removed correctly, some common points that can give problems are: the dock magnet is touching the back probe magnet, they cannot touch, push them further in the probe is hitting the dock arms, please move the toolhead more to the side where the probe does not hit, by 1mm at a time, until it works the probe is falling after being release, the dock is too far away, you can insert one or several 1mm spacer to move the dock and solve this WARNING when you are doing PROBE_ACCURACY, make sure that the probe is above the bed, the PROBE_ACCURACY macro does not move the toolhead in X or Y. Congratulations, your done :). Firsts tests Before starting to test klicky, and from past mistakes, please remove your PEI sheet (the probe works on the magnetic sheet) and if possible, change your printer maximum speed, acceleration and Z current, on klipper with TMC steppers, you can do this: SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_z CURRENT=0.2 SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT ACCEL=1000 SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT VELOCITY=50 Enjoy your Klicky Probe! Dock and undock video It is working very well, if you decide to use it, give me feedback, either here, or on discord, my discord user is JosAr#0517. By standing on the shoulders of giants, lets see if we can see further.
  25. Version 2021.01.21

    121 downloads

    After growing tired of my room smelling of ABS, I decided to create an exhaust and filter system that could be printed entirely on a v0. This mod utilizes 5 layers of 10mm thick activated charcoal sheets, a 60mm x 25mm fan and an optional Roomba HEPA filter. I have tested it throughly and my design almost entirely eliminates the ABS smell during and after printing. The entire assembly (With the HEPA filter attachment) sticks out about 110 mm past the rear of the printer. BOM 4x M3x6 screws 8x M3x6 or M3x10 screws 4x M3x30 or M3x35 screws 16x Heat set inserts 10mm Activated Charcoal sheets Link 24v 60mm x 25mm fan Link OPTIONAL Roomba HEPA filter Link Assembly Before printing the Fan_Cover make sure to check where the wires from your fan exit the housing and select the corresponding stl. The fan wires snake through the assembly and exit through one of the holes in the grill. You will also need to cut 5 55mm x 90mm sheets of activated charcoal to fit into the chamber Wiring and Klipper If you're using an SKR mini v1.2 then you must move the hotend fan from pin FAN0 to FAN1. This allows the exhaust fan to be controlled via PWM instead of the hotend fan since the 1.2 board only has 1 controllable fan port. If you're using the v2 then you don't have to worry about that step because both fan ports are controllable. Add this to your config assuming the exhaust fan is plugged into FAN0 (PA8) [fan_generic exhaust_fan] # Exhaust Fan pin: PA8 max_power: 1.0 shutdown_speed: 0 kick_start_time: 0.5 You can then control the fan speed with SET_FAN_SPEED fan=exhaust_fan SPEED="number between 0 and 1" For example, to put the fan speed at 30% use, SET_FAN_SPEED fan=exhaust_fan SPEED=0.3 Running the fan at 30% speed during a print has lead to a dramatic decrease in ABS fumes and pretty much made them unnoticeable. I also run the fan at 100% speed at the end of a print to fully exhaust the print chamber. Adding foam tape to seal up any gaps between panels and the top-hat will also greatly increase the reduction of fumes.
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