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  1. Version 1.2.5

    21,564 downloads

    The Mini Stealth v2 toolhead is up on GitHub now. I will keep these files here as the new parts are not compatible with the v1.2.5 parts. I will support both versions in the comments here. I still need to create new assembly instructions but a lot of the steps are similar to what is described here. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- This toolhead scales down the body of the Stealthburner to a size which fits into a V0.1/V0.2. Fully assembled it weighs about 120 grams less than the original. It is designed around the Bondtech LGX Lite extruder and has versions for the Phaetus Dragonfly, Dragon and Rapido HF hotends as well as versions for the Mosquito, the Revo Voron and the Creality Spider Pro hotends. It incorporates a status LED as well as two for print visibility. I have added new stretched versions that should fit the Rapido UHF, Dragon UHF and the VolcoMosq hotends. The Dragon UHF and Rapido UHF hotends can fit in the same shroud. The UHF hotends will reduce Z travel by 8.5mm and the VolcoMosq by 3mm. I cannot verify the fitment so if there are any issues please leave a comment. There are now two hex pattern inlays based on the design by 3DP-MAMSIH and a tutorial on how to apply them to the shroud. The negative body feature of Prusa/Super Slicer can also be used to create a crop-top version of the shroud as described at the end of the tutorial. The shroud uses a pair of 4010 blowers which produce more airflow than a 5015 blower while also being notably less noisy and drawing less current. The depth of these fans do limit Y travel by 3mm on a V0.1 while the door is closed and tophat is on. The width of the main body at its base is also a very tight fit at the extremes of X travel. The shroud fits a 3010 hotend fan or a 3007 fan by using a clip-in adapter. The Mini Stealth LGX Lite fits well in a V2.4 or Trident and modified x-frame left and right pieces are included. There is a separate 'strain_relief' stl for use in the V0.1. There are also x-frame pieces that allow this Mini Stealth to be installed on a Switchwire. The nozzle is moved up by 3mm compared to the official Switchwire. The x-frame has geometry that allows a BL-Touch to fit locked between the two pieces. I have included a magnet mount and additional shroud .stl files to make this compatible with the ZeroClick mod. This toolhead also has versions that allow mounting a differential IR sensor. I have removed the mechanical Z endstop on my V0.1 and use the IR probe as an endstop and it has greatly simplified my homing sequence. There are additional x-frame pieces that allow mounting the Beacon3D probe, Euclid or Biqu MicroProbe for a V2.4, Trident or Switchwire. The included Blender file shows the entire assembly complete with screws and should answer most basic questions. Note on MGN-9 installation: The default 2mm x 10 plastic threading screw is too long for mounting the x-axis endstop. An M2 x 8 does the job fine. For mounting to the linear carriage use four M3 x 6 flat-head screws. Note: The MGN carriage shown is an MGN-9H, not the shorter MGN-9C used in the V0.1 mod. Preparation I recommend test fitting the extruder, LGX_lite_adapter_plate, PTFE tube and hotend into the shroud before running any wires to ensure that the PTFE tube length is correct and everything fits. It helps to chamfer the edge of the tube with a sharp blade so that it doesn't snag in the hotend. I is a good idea to use a file to lightly remove any printing artifacts on the mating face of the shroud. All three fans will need the wire retention piece clipped so the wires fit into the shroud channels easier. Use a small file to smooth out the break-off edges of the LED PCB and make sure the LED pockets are clear of 'droopy bits' Differential IR Probe Installation The IR Probe needs to be screwed into place with two M2.5x8 FHCS before installing any of the fans, except with the VolcoMosq or UHF hotends where the probe needs to be glued on with CA glue. The Y-offset for this probe is 4mm in front of the nozzle and the X-offset is 32mm. I strongly recommend removing the 3-pin header and soldering wires directly to the probe PCB. When installed the wires will route out from the back of the IR probe cover to then join with the hotend and fan wires. I have included a cover to allow a connector at the probe but the wire management will be less than ideal.. Assembly Instructions After pressing the status LED diffuser into place, install the right part-cooling fan first by feeding the wires through the small hole at the bottom. Then feed the wires for the status LED and hotend fan through before starting to push the LED carrier into position. Carefully push the status LED carrier as far as it will go and press the fan into position while making sure not to pinch the part-cooling fan wires. Then press the remaining LEDs into their slots. (I measure out 35mm of wire to connect these LEDs together) Here is another view also showing how the hotend fan wires fit through the hole on the side of the status LED carrier. Insert the second part-cooling fan and splice the wires together with the first fan. Install the hotend with at least two M2.5x6 screws (M3x6 for the Revo Voron). The heater cartridge should be installed away from the LEDs to avoid overheating them. ( ** don't forget the PTFE tube ) Pre-assemble the extruder pieces before installing into the shroud. Use M3x30 screws to attach motor_bridge. Install the extruder with an M3x6 BHCS on the back and then an M3x12 from below. Ensure the cables are routed as flat to the shroud as possible and secure them with zip ties. Install the strain_relief or cable_chain_mount with two M3x8 screws and the cable_door with another M3x8 screw. Close the cable door with an M3x6 screw. Use two M3x40 BHCS to secure the toolhead to the x-carriage in a V0.1/V0.2. For installation in a Trident or V2.4 use two M3x50 BHCS. Happy Printing!
  2. Version 1.2.5

    13,137 downloads

    The Mini Stealth v2 toolhead is up on GitHub now. I will keep these files here as the new parts are not compatible with the v1.2.5 parts. I will support both versions in the comments here. I still need to create new assembly instructions but a lot of the steps are similar to what is described here. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- This toolhead scales down the body of the Stealthburner to a size which fits into a V0.1/V0.2. Fully assembled it weighs about 80 grams less than the original. It is designed around the Orbiter 1.5 extruder and has versions for the Phaetus Dragonfly, Dragon and Rapido HF hotends as well as versions for the Mosquito and the Revo Voron hotends. It incorporates a status LED as well as two for print visibility. There are now two hex pattern inlays based on the design by 3DP-MAMSIH and a tutorial on how to apply them to the shroud. The negative body feature of Prusa/Super Slicer can also be used to create a crop-top version of the shroud as described at the end of the tutorial. I have added new stretched versions that should fit the Rapido UHF, Dragon UHF and the VolcoMosq hotends. The Dragon UHF and Rapido UHF hotends can fit in the same shroud. The UHF hotends will reduce Z travel by 8.5mm and the VolcoMosq by 3mm. I cannot verify the fitment so if there are any issues please leave a comment. It uses a pair of 4010 blowers which I found to produce more airflow than a 5015 blower while being notably less noisy and drawing less current. The depth of these fans do limit Y travel by 3mm on a V0.1 while the door is closed and tophat is on. The width of the main body at its base is also a very tight fit at the extremes of X travel. I have raised my tophat by 20mm which gives the cabling and filament tube plenty of room to breathe. The shroud fits a 3010 hotend fan or a 3007 fan by using a clip-in adapter. I have also installed this on my Trident. The included files do not address cable management on a Trident or V2.4 but do provide mounting to the MGN12 carriage. The cable chain on a Trident or V2.4 would have to be moved back at least 5mm to clear the extruder stepper motor. There is a separate 'strain_relief' stl for use in the V0.1. There are also x-frame pieces that allow this Mini Stealth to be installed on a Switchwire. The nozzle is moved up by 3mm compared to the official Switchwire due to the stepper motor being so low on the Orbiter extruder but this also allows a BL-Touch to fit into the x-frame pieces. I have included a magnet mount and additional shroud .stl files to make this compatible with the ZeroClick mod. This toolhead also has versions that allow mounting a differential IR sensor. I have removed the mechanical Z endstop on my V0.1 and use the IR probe as an endstop and it has greatly simplified my homing sequence. There are additional x-frame pieces that allow mounting the Beacon3D probe, Euclid or Biqu MicroProbe for a V2.4, Trident or Switchwire. The included Blender file shows the entire assembly complete with screws and should answer most basic questions. Note on MGN-9 installation: The default 2mm x 10 plastic threading screw is too long for mounting the x-axis endstop. An M2 x 8 does the job fine. For mounting to the linear carriage use four M3 x 6 flat-head screws. Note: The MGN carriage shown is an MGN-9H, not the shorter MGN-9C used in the V0.1 mod. Preparation I recommend using a file to lightly remove any printing artifacts on the mating face of the shroud. Use a small file to smooth out the break-off edges of the LED PCB and make sure the LED pockets are clear of 'droopy bits' All three fans will need the wire retention piece clipped so the wires fit into the shroud channels easier. Differential IR Probe Installation The IR Probe needs to be screwed into place with two M2.5x8 FHCS before installing any of the fans, except with the VolcoMosq or UHF hotends where the probe needs to be glued on with CA glue. The Y-offset for this probe is 4mm in front of the nozzle and the X-offset is 32mm. I strongly recommend removing the 3-pin header and soldering wires directly to the probe PCB. When installed the wires will route out from the back of the IR probe cover to then join with the hotend and fan wires. I have included a cover to allow a connector at the probe but the wire management will be less than ideal.. Assembly Instructions After pressing the status LED diffuser into place, install the right part-cooling fan first by feeding the wires through the small hole at the bottom. Then feed the wires for the status LED and hotend fan through before starting to push the LED carrier into position. Carefully push the status LED carrier as far as it will go and press the fan into position while making sure not to pinch the part-cooling fan wires. Then press the remaining LEDs into their slots. (I measure out 35mm of wire to connect these LEDs together) Here is another view also showing where the hotend fan wires fit. Insert the second part-cooling fan and splice the wires together with the first fan. Install the hotend with at least two M2.5x6 screws (M3x6 for the Revo Voron). The heater cartridge should be installed away from the LEDs to avoid overheating them. ( ** don't forget the PTFE tube ) Gather the wires together and secure them with the first zip-tie. (it helps to insert a snipped zip-tie through the the hole and yank it through with pliers to remove printing artifacts from inside of the channels) Loop the wire bundle back around and add in the LED and hotend fan wires. Use two more zip-ties to secure everything in place. ENSURE to leave room for the extruder by lifting the loop of wires up and out of the way as shown. More space is much better than not enough. (Don't forget the PTFE tube) Pre-assemble the extruder pieces before installing into the shroud. Use two M3x8 BHCS to install the Orbiter 1.5 extruder. It helps to have both screws in the Orbiter before putting it in place. Start the screw by the latch and then the blind screw should be easier to align. Gather all of the wires together and then use a zip-tie to secure them to the motor-bridge. Leave a little slack in the extruder wires. Install the strain_relief with two M3x6/8 screws and the cable_door with a M3x10/12 screw. Close the cable door with a M3x6 screw and screw in the extruder tensioning thumb screw. Use two M3x40 BHCS to secure the toolhead to the x-carriage in a V0.1/V0.2. For installation in a Trident or V2.4 use two M3x50 BHCS. Happy Printing!
  3. Version 1.2.5

    21,435 downloads

    The Mini Stealth v2 toolhead is up on GitHub now. I will keep these files here as the new parts are not compatible with the v1.2.5 parts. I will support both versions in the comments here. I still need to create new assembly instructions but a lot of the steps are similar to what is described here. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- This toolhead scales down the body of the Stealthburner to a size which fits into a V0.1/2. Fully assembled it weighs less than 260 grams. It is designed around the Mini Sherpa extruder and has versions for the Phaetus Dragonfly, Dragon and Rapido HF hotends as well as versions for the Mosquito, the Revo Voron and the Creality Spider Pro hotends. It incorporates a status LED as well as two for print visibility. I have also added stretched versions that should fit the Rapido UHF, Dragon UHF and the VolcoMosq hotends. The Dragon UHF and Rapido UHF hotends can fit in the same shroud. The UHF hotends will reduce Z travel by 8.5mm and the VolcoMosq by 3mm. I cannot verify the fitment so if there are any issues please leave a comment. There are now two hex pattern inlays based on the design by 3DP-MAMSIH and a tutorial on how to apply them to the shroud. The negative body feature of Prusa/Super Slicer can also be used to create a crop-top version of the shroud as described at the end of the tutorial. The shroud uses a pair of 4010 blowers which produce more airflow than a 5015 blower while also being notably less noisy and drawing less current. The depth of these fans do limit Y travel by 3mm on a V0.1 while the door is closed and tophat is on. The width of the main body at its base is also a very tight fit at the extremes of X travel. The shroud fits a 3010 hotend fan or a 3007 fan by using a clip-in adapter. This Mini Stealth - Mini Sherpa also fits well in a V2.4 or Trident and modified x-frame left and right pieces are included. There are cable chain mounts as well as strain_relief and umbilical_PCB mount for use in the V0.1. There are additional x-frame pieces that allow this Mini Stealth to be installed on a Switchwire. The nozzle is moved up by 3mm compared to the official Switchwire. The x-frame has geometry that allows a BL-Touch to fit locked between the two pieces. I have included a magnet mount and additional shroud .stl files to make this compatible with the ZeroClick mod. This toolhead also has versions that allow mounting a differential IR sensor. I have removed the mechanical Z endstop on my V0.1 and use the IR probe as an endstop and it has greatly simplified my homing sequence. There are additional x-frame pieces that allow mounting the Beacon3D probe, Euclid or Biqu MicroProbe for a V2.4, Trident or Switchwire. The included Blender file shows the entire assembly complete with screws and should answer most basic questions. Note on MGN-9 installation: The default 2mm x 10 plastic threading screw is too long for mounting the x-axis endstop. An M2 x 8 does the job fine. For mounting to the linear carriage use four M3 x 6 flat-head screws. Note: The MGN carriage shown is an MGN-9H, not the shorter MGN-9C used in the V0.1 mod. Preparation I recommend using a file to lightly remove any printing artifacts on the mating face of the shroud. Use a small file to smooth out the break-off edges of the LED PCB and make sure the LED pockets are clear of 'droopy bits' All three fans will need the wire retention piece clipped so the wires fit into the shroud channels easier. Differential IR Probe Installation The IR Probe needs to be screwed into place with two M2.5x8 FHCS before installing any of the fans, except with the VolcoMosq or UHF hotends where the probe needs to be glued on with CA glue. The Y-offset for this probe is 4mm in front of the nozzle and the X-offset is 32mm. I strongly recommend removing the 3-pin header and soldering wires directly to the probe PCB. When installed the wires will route out from the back of the IR probe cover to then join with the hotend and fan wires. I have included a cover to allow a connector at the probe but the wire management will be less than ideal.. Assembly Instructions After pressing the status LED diffuser into place, install the right part-cooling fan first by feeding the wires through the small hole at the bottom. Then feed the wires for the status LED and hotend fan through before starting to push the LED carrier into position. Carefully push the status LED carrier as far as it will go and press the fan into position while making sure not to pinch the part-cooling fan wires. Then press the remaining LEDs into their slots. (I measure out 35mm of wire to connect these LEDs together) Here is another view also showing how the hotend fan wires fit through the hole on the side of the status LED carrier. Insert the second part-cooling fan and splice the wires together with the first fan. Install the hotend with at least two M2.5x6 screws (M3x6 for the Revo Voron). The heater cartridge should be installed away from the LEDs to avoid overheating them. ( ** don't forget the PTFE tube ) Pre-assemble the extruder with your chosen cable management using M3x20 BHCS before installing into the shroud. Install the extruder with two M3x8 BHCS. Make sure that the LED and fan wires route around and exit behind the extruder. They can even fit in the gap below the extruder as shown in the picture. Gather the wires together with zip ties and secure them up to the cable management piece. Do your best to keep them tucked in close at the base of the extruder. I used a temporary zip tie at the top to keep the wires manageable until I installed the toolhead in the printer. The top of the cable door hooks under the back of the shroud and then you can use 2 - M3x6 BHCS to secure the cable door in place. Use two M3x40 BHCS to secure the toolhead to the x-carriage in a V0.1/V0.2. For installation in a Trident or V2.4 use two M3x50 BHCS. Happy Printing!
  4. Version 1.2.5

    44,958 downloads

    The Mini Stealth v2 toolhead is up on GitHub now. I will keep these files here as the new parts are not compatible with the v1.2.5 parts. I will support both versions in the comments here. I still need to create new assembly instructions but a lot of the steps are similar to what is described here. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- This toolhead scales down the body of the Stealthburner to a size which fits into a V0.1/V0.2. Fully assembled it weighs about 110 grams less than the original. It is designed around the Orbiter 2.0 extruder and has versions for the Phaetus Dragonfly, Dragon and Rapido HF hotends as well as versions for the Mosquito, the Revo Voron and the Creality Spider Pro hotends. It incorporates a status LED as well as two for print visibility. I have added new stretched versions that should fit the Rapido UHF, Dragon UHF and the VolcoMosq hotends. The Dragon UHF and Rapido UHF hotends can fit in the same shroud. The UHF hotends will reduce Z travel by 8.5mm and the VolcoMosq by 3mm. I cannot verify the fitment so if there are any issues please leave a comment. There are now two hex pattern inlays based on the design by 3DP-MAMSIH and a tutorial on how to apply them to the shroud. The negative body feature of Prusa/Super Slicer can also be used to create a crop-top version of the shroud as described at the end of the tutorial. The Mini Stealth uses a pair of 4010 blowers which produce more airflow than a 5015 blower while being notably less noisy and drawing less current. The depth of these fans do limit Y travel by 3mm on a V0.1 while the door is closed and tophat is on. The width of the main body at its base is also a very tight fit at the extremes of X travel. I have raised my tophat by 20mm which gives the cabling and filament tube plenty of room to breathe. The shroud fits a 3010 hotend fan or a 3007 fan by using a clip-in adapter. This Orbiter 2.0 Mini Stealth is a better fit than the Orbiter 1.5 Mini Stealth in a V2.4 or Trident as the motor no longer interferes with the path of the cable chain. There is a separate 'strain_relief' stl for use in the V0.1. There are also x-frame pieces that allow this Mini Stealth to be installed on a Switchwire. The nozzle is moved up by 3mm compared to the official Switchwire due to the stepper motor being so low on the Orbiter extruder but this also allows a BL-Touch to fit into the x-frame pieces. I have included a magnet mount and additional shroud .stl files to make this compatible with the ZeroClick mod. This toolhead also has versions that allow mounting a differential IR sensor. I have removed the mechanical Z endstop on my V0.1 and use the IR probe as an endstop and it has greatly simplified my homing sequence. There are additional x-frame pieces that allow mounting the Beacon3D probe, Euclid or Biqu MicroProbe for a V2.4, Trident or Switchwire. The included Blender file shows the entire assembly complete with screws and should answer most basic questions. Note on MGN-9 installation: The default 2mm x 10 plastic threading screw is too long for mounting the x-axis endstop. An M2 x 8 does the job fine. For mounting to the linear carriage use four M3 x 6 flat-head screws. Note: The MGN carriage shown is an MGN-9H, not the shorter MGN-9C used in the V0.1 mod. Preparation I recommend using a file to lightly remove any printing artifacts on the mating face of the shroud. Use a small file to smooth out the break-off edges of the LED PCB and make sure the LED pockets are clear of 'droopy bits' All three fans will need the wire retention piece clipped so the wires fit into the shroud channels easier. Differential IR Probe Installation The IR Probe needs to be screwed into place with two M2.5x8 FHCS before installing any of the fans, except with the VolcoMosq or UHF hotends where the probe needs to be glued on with CA glue. The Y-offset for this probe is 4mm in front of the nozzle and the X-offset is 32mm. I strongly recommend removing the 3-pin header and soldering wires directly to the probe PCB. When installed the wires will route out from the back of the IR probe cover to then join with the hotend and fan wires. I have included a cover to allow a connector at the probe but the wire management will be less than ideal.. Assembly Instructions After pressing the status LED diffuser into place, install the right part-cooling fan first by feeding the wires through the small hole at the bottom. Then feed the wires for the status LED and hotend fan through before starting to push the LED carrier into position. Carefully push the status LED carrier as far as it will go and press the fan into position while making sure not to pinch the part-cooling fan wires. Then press the remaining LEDs into their slots. (I measure out 35mm of wire to connect these LEDs together) Here is another view also showing where the hotend fan wires fit. Insert the second part-cooling fan and splice the wires together with the first fan. Install the hotend with at least two M2.5x6 screws (M3x6 for the Revo Voron). The heater cartridge should be installed away from the LEDs to avoid overheating them. (** don't forget the PTFE tube) Pre-assemble the extruder pieces before installing into the shroud. Use two M3x8 BHCS to install the Orbiter 2.0 extruder. It helps to have both screws in the Orbiter before putting it in place. Start the screw by the latch and then the blind screw should be easier to align. Gather all of the wires together with a zip-tie next to the base of the Orbiter latch and then use another zip-tie to secure the wires to the motor-bridge. Leave a little slack in the extruder wires. Install the strain_relief or cable_chain_mount with two M3x6/8 screws and the cable_door with a M3x10/12 screw. Close the cable door with a M3x6 BHCS and screw in the extruder tensioning thumb screw. Use two M3x40 BHCS to secure the toolhead to the x-carriage in a V0.1/V0.2. For installation in a Trident or V2.4 use two M3x50 BHCS. Happy Printing!
  5. Version 1.0.0

    148 downloads

    CatPaw is the ideal toolhead for Voron Zero series with Orbiter 2.0 Extruder. I developed this toolhead as I was unhappy with the existing options. The standard Voron Zero 0.2 toolhead does not provide as much cooling as I prefer, and certainly less than the StealthBurner toolhead. My design goals were also minimum loss of print volume and maximum compatibility with toolheads and options for probe and filament sensor. CATPAW: Uses Voron Zero 0.2 toolhead cartridges, so should work with all toolheads for voron Zero 0.2 (fan saver recommended) 2x 4010 Blowers, with StealthBurner duct layout for near arctic level part cooling (2x 4010 provides more air than StealthBurner toolhead) Almost no loss in print volume. X axis should be full width, loss off a millimeter or so on X if you print with your door closed. (Magnets on my door are strong enough, so the door closes again if the toolhead bumps into it, giving me the full 120x120 mm even when printing ABS Option to add the slideswipe Probe. I shortened the probe, but all other parts can be used from https://github.com/SaltyPaws/Voron_0.1and0.2mods/SlideSwipe or original repo (https://github.com/chestwood96/SlideSwipe) Option to add under extruder filament Sensor Carriages are provided for MGN7 and MGN9 X-axis rails. It is recommended to print the provided X carriage for the appropriate rail. In order to minimize toolhead height, I lowered the screw hole for the rear mounting screw. The CATPAW toolhead will work with the stock Voron Zero 0.2 Carriage, but the screw securing the X-carriage from the rear will not fit. https://github.com/SaltyPaws/CATPAW_toolhead/raw/main/images/PXL_20240101_224037977.jpg?raw=true BOM 2x SHCS (preferred) or BHSC M3x25 bolt 3x M3 nut 2x NeoPixel 1x 3010 hotend fan 2x 4010 Blower 6x3mm magnets for probe (optional) 6mm steel ball for filament sensor (optional) Omron D2F-L micro-switch with lever for filament sensor (optional) 2x M2x12 or self-tapping screw to secure micro-switch (optional) Installation Instructions Assembly should be done in the following order: Probe Solder wires to 6x3mm magnets. In order to prevent loss of magnetism, let the magnets cool against another 6x3 magnet. Press the magnets into the slots by pushing the toolhead down on a hard object. Use a large flat soldering tip at around 230C to push the magnets deeper into the slots, you want the magnets to stick out ~0.5 to 1 mm. Again, let the magnets cool down attached to other magnets to prevent loss of magnetism. Ensure wire to magnet path has very low resistance (less than 4 ohm). route wires out trough little side window. Seal hole with red gasket maker. NeoPixels Create a chain of 2 neopixels. You do not have a lot of space to hide excess cable, so make the wires between the neopixels as short as possible, while still allowing them to slide into the slots. Test the neopixels! It will be more rework to remove the hotend fan and part cooling fans later. Fans First install 3010 part cooling fan. Be very careful to only press the edges of the fan, the fan will break when pushing the center of the fan (ask me how I know...) Then proceed with installing the blower fans. Use a knife to cut the upper right hand side of the blower fan (looking back to front). This is required for routing the majority of the wires. I used superglue to keep the fan together as you will remove a fan closing latch. I accidentally cut int the fanbox, and sealed up the hole with red gasket maker. For details - see pictures below: https://github.com/SaltyPaws/CATPAW_toolhead/raw/main/images/PXL_20231225_175242278.jpg?raw=true https://github.com/SaltyPaws/CATPAW_toolhead/raw/main/images/PXL_20231225_175256608.jpg?raw=true https://github.com/SaltyPaws/CATPAW_toolhead/raw/main/images/PXL_20231225_175325632.jpg?raw=true Toolhead Cardridge Ensure the heater wires are installed pointing towards the right hand fan that has space for wire routing. Thermistor, probe and fan wires will fit on the other side (left hand side fan). Hold off on installing the zip-ties, these are best installed after the toolhead is installed on the carriage. Filament Sensor Solder wires to filament sensor (2 outer most legs). You may want to shorten the legs somewhat for an easier fit. Trim lever, so that lever does not extend past micro-switch body Install micro-switch and ball Test sensor Install Toolhead Carefully mount toolhead, ensuring that wires are not pinched, and belt is not rubbing on gantry. The bulk of the wires will go in the gap carved out on the right hand side fan, the other side will have sufficient space for probe and fan wires. Min Probe See installation instructions in orignal repo: https://github.com/chestwood96/SlideSwipe
  6. Version 1.1.0

    3,159 downloads

    Converts the current Voron v0.1 panel mounting parts into easily removeable magnetic mounts. Perfect for switching between ABS/PLA without the hassle of unscrewing everytime. Mounts using the basic m3x8 hardware that the original parts mounted with. Included are the files for a spacer to fill the gap between the frame and the panels to help with heat loss, this is not needed but will help. I have installed some 12mmx6mm adhesive draft excluder found easily on amazon. You will need to print 8 of each "part 1" and "part 2" to fit each side, they will not totally fill the gap, there is a small space left on the top and bottom to allow gripping the panel to remove it. Required hardware: 16x m3x8 (original hardware) 16x m3 nut (original hardware) 16x 8mmx2mm neodymium magnets (You can source easy enough, but here is a link to the ones i have used from UK Amazon; https://www.amazon.co.uk/Magnet-Expert%C2%AE-8mm-thick-Neodymium/dp/B007JTL25M/ref=sr_1_2?crid=VG4LDUUBDICR&keywords=8mmx2mm+magnet&qid=1647471673&sprefix=8mmx2mm+magnet%2Caps%2C48&sr=8-2 ) Optional hardware: 2m 6mm thick adhesive draft excluder 32x m3x8 32x m3 nut
  7. Version 1.0.0

    545 downloads

    This belted-z mod is designed to be as small as possible. It uses the LDO-36STH17 geared pancake stepper from the extruder that comes with the LDO V0.1 kit. This allows it to fit completely below the printer and not take any space from the electronics area on the back of the printer. The 5:1 gearing of the 20t GT-2 pulley maintains the same 8mm rotation_distance as the stock z-leadscrew. I was able to increase my z-homing speed to 50mm/sec while lowering the current to 0.25A for the Z motor. The build plate will usually drop when the stepper enable is turned off. B.O.M. 1 - LDO-36STH17 or OMC 14HR07-1004VRN 10 tooth geared pancake stepper 1 - 50T geared 5mm shaft (from Mini Afterburner extruder kit) (alternate source) 1 - 20T GT-2 pulley (5mm bore) 2 - MR85 bearing 2 - F695 flanged bearing 1 - M5 x 1mm shim spacer 3 - M3x8 BHCS 3 - M3 square nuts 2 - M3x12 BHCS 2 - M3x35 BHCS 1 - M5x16 BHCS 5 - printed parts (required) 1 - printed part (optional) 6 - M3 threaded heat inserts When installing this mod I only had to pull out the bottom panel to access the screws holding the Z motor with lead screw. Installation of the new components was all done from the bottom and front of the printer. I have included a Blender file to show the overall assembly of this mod.
  8. Version 1.0.0

    171 downloads

    I created this as a way to prevent filament from getting into the electronics bay via the space around the z-rod. This screws in place of the two z liner rail stops so you can use the existing nuts to mount it. per design, it is a snug fit, but allows for clearance around the z-rod so as not to hinder its movement. The face of this should be printed down and I only allowed supports for the holes. Please let me know what you think about this or if you'd like to see any changes.
  9. Version 2021.09.01

    264 downloads

    V0.1 Movable Pulley Z Drive Mod There already are belt-driven mods like theFPVGeek's V0 Z Belt mod and MathematicalPotato's adapted version for V0.1. This is my attempt to combine the timing belt with a movable pulley system. M4-like driving gear(1:4) with movable pulley on Z bed(1:2), resulting in a 1:8 speed ratio, provides higher torque and step resolution. The bed doesn't drop when the Z motor is disabled. Using a NEMA14 stepper motor (no tight restriction in length) provides another path for V0 to V0.1 upgrade by reusing the Z motor. BOM (Some can be obtained from the original setup) Fasteners 1 x M2x10 Self Tapping Screw 2 x M3x6 BHCS 11 x M3x8 BHCS 2 x M3x10 BHCS 4 x M3x12 BHCS 5 x M3x16 BHCS 2 x M3x20 BHCS 3 x M3 Washer 4 x M3 Threaded Insert 4 x M3 Hex Nut 3 x M5x20 BHCS/SHCS 3 x M5 Hex Nut 1 x M5 Washer (about 1mm thick, doesn't have to be accurate) Motion 3 x GT2 20T Pulley (6mm wide / 5mm bore) 1 x GT2 Belt Loop (6mm wide) - 188mm GT2 Open Belt (6mm wide) - about 650mm 8 x F695 2RS Bearing 1 x 5x60mm Shaft 1 x NEMA14 Stepper Motor (LDO-35STH42-0504AH, others might also work) Mechanism As shown in the following figure, the belt drive on the motor is a 20T:80T system. The driven belt path with constant belt length is a movable pulley system with the two belt ends fixed at the upper and lower parts of the frame. Instructions Assembly of Each Component Note the places that need threaded inserts. You can pre-apply them. M4-like driving gear This is very similar to Voron M4 extruder. Just mind the placement of the F695 bearings. You can refer to Nero's video guide for details about assembling Voron M4. The 80T_gear_7mm.stl provided is a thinner version of the M4 toothed gear with 7mm of tooth width instead of 9mm to save a little weight and space. Both should work here. Bed Holder Top Idler Top Endstop Mount Use the stock Z endstop and the two M2 self tapping screws. Assembly Preload 2 M3 nuts at the marked slot on page 32 of the manual. (Note: If you don't want to take the frame apart, it can be mounted without these two nuts but it may be less rigid. Don't tighten the belt too much then. NOT TESTED!) Make a loop on one end of the belt and press it into the printed part. Then mount the printed part to the frame with 2 M3x8 screws. Mount each component to the frame (don't fully tighten up yet). There should be preloaded nuts if you followed the V0.1 manual. The two upper components and their nuts can be slid in from the top. Route the belt path as shown in the mechanism figure. Slightly adjust the position of each component so the bed holder is at the middle of the extrusion and the four marked segments of the belt are as parallel to the Z rails as possible. Belt tensioning. First mount the top endstop holder about 2-4mm lower from the top horizontal aluminum extrusion. Then route the belt end through. While holding the belt end, press the printed cover on and lock it with two M3x6 BHCS. Make sure the belt doesn't slip out. If the belt is still loose, pull the endstop holder upward to adjust the belt tension. (Note: As marked in the figure, keep the top idler mount and endstop mount below the bottom of the horizontal aluminum extrusion, or the mini-AB might crash into the screw heads or printed parts.) Klipper Settings Old format (1.8 degree motor and 16 microsteps): [stepper_z] step_distance: 0.0015625 New format: [stepper_z] rotation_distance: 40 gear_ratio: 80:20, 2:1 Photos Here's a video of testing the bed motion: Changelog 2021-08-26 Initial release
  10. Version 1.0.0

    53 downloads

    I modified this v0 trident skirt file found here here on GitHub to have a sub-component that can be easily sliced into a mesh. I'm certain that the printable mount from the aforementioned page can be modified and adapted independently to attach other displays to this skirt. I made this for another user, but im posting it so that others don't have to put in as much effort as I did going forward. To make this .STL do the mesh thing, drop it into superslicer, right-click the part, hover over the "split" option in the menu, then select "split into parts". when you do this, the part will be split into two merged parts in your parts list view in the slicer. Select the flat solid skirt cover part in the list, right click the selected part and click "Perimeters & Shell" and "infill". Set the number of top and bottom solid layers to 0. I like to make the perimeter count 2. Screenshots from slicer are in the Spoiler below if you want visual help. I used Honeycomb infill at 23% density and a filament swap at layer 4 to get the result in the IRL photo here. I recommend playing around with the infill settings a bit because you can get some really cool results. Gyroid and rectilinear infills make pretty neat meshes at higher densities (30%-50%). More visual examples are in the spoiler below. The rest of the v0.2 skirts with pre-prepared meshes can be found here. One-Part side skirts with pre-prepared meshes can be found here, posted as the "closed" variants of the STLs. I followed this video tutorial to make this from the provided STEP file on the previously mentioned/linked printables page. The printables file that I modified was derived from golas's v0 trident skirt remix
  11. Well despite the tempting from certain members (you know who you are!) I decided to rebuild my partially buggered V0.1 rather than build my secret V2.4. I was never 100% happy with my first V0. Then the hot-end blocked (or so I thought) but on stripping down the mini-AB I discovered the gear is loose on the main drive shaft/gear: Sadly I cannot remove (or tighten) the grub screw holding the gear so I'm buggered. If I'd known that before destroying the upper section of the mini-AB I could have bodged it by supergluing the gear onto the shaft. I don't think I was so daft as to use superglue in the first place but I must've been overly generous with the locktite. None of the solvents I have on had seem to have any affect. Clearly a combination of masochism and stubbornness means the "only" option is to rebuild the machine, it would only niggle at me otherwise. All the wonderful experience I've gained from the first two V0 builds will make this time around a breeze.........(or possibly an icy-blast from the bowels of hell) Here's what the poor thing looks like at the moment since I've decapitated it: So in terms of mods.... Magnetic Panels. Klicky Probe. Orbiter 2 extruder. Belted Z. I will also replace the linear rails - when originally building this (and after throughly reading the manunal several times) I still managed to allow some of the carriages to slip off the rails (so I "think" I lost some balls). I will probably replace the acrylic panels with ACM ones. As I type this I realise it'll be a complete rebuild of the frame! The other thing I'm intrigued in is the Kirigami bed. I retrofitted the Kirigami bed to this machine and I do not remember the same level of hassle as I had with the "direct" fit on my second V0. Either this bed was better manufacturered or it's just not fitted properly (and I've not noticed?!) Last but not least I'm thinking about CANBUS, I definitely like fewer wires than more. The zillion wires makes the hotend messy. The reservations I have about the CANBUS is the implementation of the toolhead (especially the extruder motor driver) and how it will handle heat. Motor drivers (especially cheaply implemented ones) are extremely prone to overheating. Guess if it does not work out I can go for a toolhead PCB instead of having to splice wires. That's the rough plan. Beyond disassembly not a lot will happen until February as everything else is on a slow-boat from China.
  12. Received by Formbot3d Voron V0.1 BOM in a box today which I had ordered on January 14th. Other than assembling a Creality CR-10 I have no other 3d printer experience. I was so eagerly wanting a Voron I bought two kits the V0.1 and the V2.4. I think I have bitten off more than I can chew..... I'll be lucky if I get the V0.1 built and working. Though I suspect I will learn lots along the way. I am still waiting on my printed parts so in the meantime I did the unboxing to just document what I got from Formbot and how it matched up to their website advertisement. I welcome any words of wisdom or guidance to help me along with this build.
  13. Hi! I'm a happy 2.4r2 user and was thinking about building a 0.1 (because, why not?) and I think it will use far less electricity than my 300mm 2.4 build. I think most of the things I'll print will fit within the 100mm limit, so that would be good as well. Plus, of course, it'll be fun! I'm debating on sourcing my own parts or buying a formbot kit. I'm comparing pricing and such. I have *some* parts left over from my 2.4 build but I'm not totally sure what I can reuse on the 0.1. Here's a breakdown of things I am pretty sure I'd like to do, and I'm open to ideas of other things that everyone would recommend. I like the idea of a better top-hat, like this thing I also think I'd like to use a metal under bed frame, like this Kirigami One thing I definitely want to try and figure out is how to use a BTT TFT43 touch screen with Klipperscreen with this, which would include trying to find a front angled mount for it. I took a quick look around and didn't find much in the way of making it work but I'm sure I can find something or model one in Blender. I'm also open to using a TFT50 but that might be too big for this printer. Maybe an externally mounted one in an enclosure? I have a TFT50 on my 2.4 and consider it very helpful when using the printer. The formbot kit includes Moon motors, which I've been happy with on my 2.4 build. Are there options for better part cooling? The two 3010s seem like they'd have troubles cooling during faster printing I'm probably going to get another DHF hotend (since that's what I'm using now and have parts) unless there's something better. Not looking for super high speed printing, I just like the flow rate of the DHF unit on my 2.4. Speaking of hot ends, is the stock printhead good enough or are there upgraded versions I should consider (esp. with the DHF hotend)? I used the ABBN modified AB head for my DHF on the 2.4 and it works well, even with PLA. I'm working on the SB/taptap upgrade for the 2.4 at the moment. Is that tiny SSR that comes standard OK for this setup? I would assume the bed heater is very low wattage so probably, but I've seen upgrades for the larger SSR like I use on the Voron 2.4, and I'd be happy with upgrading to that. I will make sure whatever I use is off by default, not on upon power up. I'm definitely going to use an umbilical with PCBs between the printhead and back of the printer, and the formbot kit includes that. Are there ACM panel upgrades I should do (rather than just acrylic) like I did for my 2.4? I don't want to deal with warping. I understand it's manual leveling, which I'm not a fan of, but if that's how it is and it's so small that it's easy I'll deal. But if there's a klicky/euclid or even TAPTAP option I'll explore that as I'm super happy with my Euclid setup on the 2.4 printer. And I'm sure some folks will ask what materials I am going to use it for -- so I'll say that I'm primarily going to use this printer for PLA, but also ABS and ASA. I don't print with PETG. And I'm going to get some sort of smooth buildplate for it as I'm not a fan of the textured PEI stuff that's commonly used. Thanks in advance for your time in reading over this and for any tips and advice you can recommend before I dive on in! Dennis
  14. Hi everyone, Having never owned a bowden printer I am wanting to know the pro's and con's of bowden over direct drive, and if there would be much of a difference between the two when installed in a V0.1 I ask as I have a customer who is very particular about the exterior surface quality on a 150mm tall abs box enclosure I print for them. I use my V0.1 (direct drive) as I normally like to print them one at a time and only ever have a few to do each job. My V0.1 suffers from the 'inconsistent extrusion' issue and I have never been able to reduce or fix the problem. I am very tempted to try going to a bowden setup, the default V0.0 setup with pocketwatch. I'm interested to know what issues or difficulties I might be getting myself into with going this route. Thanks!
  15. Well after confessing, in my intro, that amongst other sins I am lazy I have decided to pull my thumb out and get on and build my second Voron (0.1). Clearly the term "get on" is a relative one and should be viewed in context. Somewhere between the thermal heat-death of the universe and the half-life of Copernicium-235, I'll try and aim for better than Continental Drift as a good measure of progress. I spent last night inserting the heat-inserts into the necessary parts and managing to melt a couple and misalign a few others courtesy of my sausage fingers but fortunately Voron #1 came to the rescue and churned out the necessary replacement parts. For the purposes of this build, I'll be fitting the kirigami bed from the outset (much easier than a retrofit) and fitting an ADXL345 accelerometer. I have to confess that I utterly love the Resonance Compensation features of Klipper (saves printing a zillion test prints and never quite getting decently ghost free results). Clearly because I am still lazy I did not lay out all the parts for the printer
  16. Version 1.0.0

    942 downloads

    This is a flip down TFT50 screen mount for the Voron V0.1. It's still a work in progress but it works and allows the screen to fold down so the door can be opened.
  17. Version 4.2.2022

    1,713 downloads

    DooMini This is Voron 0.1 mod that improves the insulation of the printer by using double glazed panels and minimal hardware. The New planes help you print full bed size ABS without ever worrying about warping. I get almost 60c chamber temperature with DooMini. (The temperatures are measured at the base of the chamber which is usually the coldest area). Almost forgot ... it looks way Cooler For All STL file as we as manual and instructions visit https://github.com/TigranDesigner/Voron-Mods/tree/main/DooMini or download directly here.
  18. I am starting my V0.1 today (prints) but it will be the first printer I build now, my v2.4's need to wait, its my turn now... Deecided on this MOD for a raised Tophat. https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/golas/v0-extended-tophat-hinge It will probably bite me in the ass at some point, but lets see! Printing the Tophat in one piece right now, you dont have a 350 build plate just for show, right?
  19. Version 2021.08.24

    237 downloads

    Voron0 MidPanel with Hex pattern print settings: layer height: 0.2mm color change at 0.6mm / 2.2mm V0.1 hardware: 4 x M3x8 BHCS 4 x M3 nut V0.0: Compatibility: Pocketwatch Z Belt mod hardware: 8 x M3x6 BHCS 8 x M3 Threaded Insert 4 x M3x8 BHCS 4 x M3 nut
  20. Version 2021.10.06

    1,624 downloads

    Based on HeVort extruder( By MirageC with Big thanks to Him on this awesome design ) How to print supported parts to VOV0 tool-head https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkwsMm29IuA Print Setting download the pre-supported .3mf file choose for support enforce only 3 perimeters 5 solid top 5 Bottom layers BOM BMG kit 2x M3X8mm 2x M3X10mm Button head 2x M3X40mm (FanDuct) 2x M3X25mm 1x M3X20mm 2x dragon / mosquito 2.5mm screws 7x heat brass insert (BOM insert) /// LDO Nema 14 Motor https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005002900085330.html /// BMG Kit with and without motor https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005002487451377.html /// Plastic PTFE Bowden fitting https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005002487819739.html /// M3 Heat insert https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/4000761483243.html Appreciate my work ? buy me a coffee https://www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=9EL8CEDVY28DA thank you and happy printing
  21. Got the last box (for now) of parts in the post earlier in the week - a PIF kit from Slidr over on Discord, and there was some time late this week to get the build started! Spent last night cleaning and greasing the linear rails & fitting them to the required extrusions & building the bed carrier. Looked over my work this evening and 3 of the 4 Y/Z rails were in the wrong side of each extrusion... Hopefully that will teach me not to work on it late in the evening! Thought I'd have a problem getting the Z rails trammed, but a glass-ceramic stovetop was flat enough to sort that out. Hopefully it'll be accurate enough, but we'll see when I get around to tuning I suppose. I'm building with a Formbot kit - and the M3 screws are unfortunately quite soft - I've partially stripped two of them already. Both on blind joints, but tapping a T8 screwdriver into the chewed up screwhead seems to have been enough to get them to loosen off. I caution people against using ball-head hex keys too much with the formbot kit, It'll lead to headaches. Aside from that, the kit parts look great. Don't have to worry about sourcing a Pi as I've an old 3B lying around from years ago that I plan to use.
  22. Am i the only one, who didn´t want to rip the printer apart, just to "preload" another few nuts into these 1515 extrusions? Let´s open new horizons with the smallest mod ever All you need are 4-sided M3 Nuts (the flat ones) 5.5x5.5x1.8mm (like DIN 562), one standard nut and a very long M3 screw (and some kind of grinder of course). 1st screw the standard nut onto the screw (leave 2-3mm of the thread sticking out. Then mount the flat nut, don´t let the thread stick out and lock the two nuts together. What you have now is just a "tool" to securely hold the nut against a grinding tool (bench grinder, belt grinder, even a dremel will do...). Grind a bevel (around 45°) on two opposite sides of the nut, "unlock" it and you´re ready to go... Just drop it into the extrusion (bevels facing down) Maybe this saves some hours of time and keeps some printers alive
  23. Received three packages from Frombot (Voron 2.4 350mm, Trident 250mm Voron 0 ), as I decided I was going to see what it was like building a kit rather than self sourcing everything as in the previous 3 builds, and comparing the kit form to a self sourced build. The Voron 0 packaging was secure and well packaged. Happy to have received the Moons motors. The controlled board was a BTT SKR 3 mini v3. And No Raspi pi. Luckily I have some spare.
  24. Version 1.0.1

    650 downloads

    This mod started out as a remix of the TophatHingeV0.1 mod by Demosth. To gain extra space for the extruder, bowden tube and cables I modified the four upper corner A/B Frame/Idler pieces. This raises the upper 1515 alu-profile pieces by 20mm so installing the standard tophat (or a hinged tophat) is functionally the same as with a stock V0.1. The most notable visual difference from a stock V0.1 is the extra space above the gantry. I made up the extra height by adding 20mm tall strips of 3mm thick plexiglass at the bottom of the front and side panels. This mod would be easy to stretch and gain 10 or 20mm more if needed. I 'borrowed' the extra plexiglass from my back panel pieces. In the LDO kit, they ship two separate pieces of dark glass for the back panel. The smaller one is meant to close off the print chamber and the larger one is meant to cover the lower electronics bay. With this mod the smaller piece is no longer large enough so it is necessary to use the larger one at the top. I have included .stl files to install this with the stock tophat, as well as modified .stl files from Demosth's mod. For the hinged version of this mod, I have also included my latching solution for the front of the tophat. The left and right Tophat_Front_Clips allow one to slide a thumb screw in to secure the top in place. The tophat_nut_catch just provides somewhere to stow the thumbscrew when the top is open (as shown in the pictures). I used the no-drop nut mod to make the square nut easier to manage. NOTE: The original A/B Drive_Frame_Upper files that I uploaded had the back heat set insert hole in the wrong location. I have uploaded the correct version of these .slt files. (21 OCT 2022)
  25. I've had a Prusa MK3 for around three years and a Prusa Mini for about two years; I was going to get a an XL but saw the light (Hallelujah) and got a an LDO Voron 0.1 kit from onetwo3d instead. It was on order for about 4 weeks and arrived two days ago. The only bit I've taken out of the kit, so far, is the heat thread inserts tool. I'm going with Sunlu blue ABS and eSun black ABS+. I've printed some stuff while I've been waiting - most of the Top Hat, all the bits for the frame and am currently printing more blue stuff. I was a bit nervous of printing ABS, but I had a light tent for the MK3S so I thought I'd give it go with that, always with the fallback of buying the printed parts. I started using a Kores glue stick on a Prusa brand textured plate, which worked ok, but difficult to get the coating even. I've now moved to a diluted (2 parts water, 1 part glue) Kores liquid PVA. A scant brush tip full will usually do all the area I need. It spreads evenly and washes off fine with hot soap water. But the ABS fumes are uncomfortable, not too smelly, but throat challenging and headachy. My playroom is an upstairs bedroom, to which I keep the door shut when printing. Nonetheless the whole upstairs gets quite a dose of the ABS fumes. So, I though I'd print the Nevermore Carbon Filter V4 and have today put that in the MK3S tent on a very posh wooden mount with a piece of cardboard under it to help it keep upright I'm using a not-so-powerful 2 pin connection fan at the moment, but after just this afternoon as a trial, it does seem better, at least the upstairs feels ok now. I've got a more powerful fan on it's way from China - I'll reprint the fan cowling for it in black I think, before it moves to Mr Voron. My Prusa took me ages to build, I took it slowly and it took about a month to complete. I did start this Voron project in a rush, but have slowed down (just a bit) now - I intend to enjoy the build. I've started a spread sheet as a build and print guide, I want to be able to start each section, Prusa style, knowing I've got all the bits that I need to complete it in front of me. I also printed a bracket for a Logitech C270 camera - I'm trying to anticipate any "extra" m3 nuts required in the frame to attach bits like a camera mount, Nevermore Fan mount, maybe handles. I'd really appreciate any suggestions I'll probably finish printing all the Blue Bits tomorrow, and then next week I'll have a go at building The Frame All suggestions and encouragement welcome. This diary building feels very therapeutic, better by far than boring the whatever's off of mates down the pub, but I'll probably do that as well
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