Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'v0.2'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • TeamFDM
    • Site Updates and Announcements
    • Frequently Asked Questions
    • General Discussion
    • Voron User Mods
    • Filaments
    • Build Diaries
    • Introductions
    • Tutorials
  • Voron Build Support
    • Voron 0
    • Voron Trident
    • Voron 2
    • Voron Legacy
    • Voron Extruders
    • Voron Electronics
    • Slicers and Print Troubleshooting
  • Other FDM Printers
    • Ender 3 / Ender 3 Pro
    • Anet A8 / AM8
    • Prusa
    • Generic / Other
  • Marketplace
    • The Bazaar
  • Vendors
    • KB-3D
    • Voron Printed Parts Co.
    • Fabreeko
  • Off-Topic
    • Random
    • TeamFDM Member's Creative Collection

Categories

  • Non Printable Files
  • Printable Voron User Mods
  • Manuals and PDF Guides
  • Creative Collection
  • Tools and Calibration
  • Official Voron Releases

Categories

  • User Mod Installs
  • Build Techniques
  • Programming
  • Team FDM Site Tutorials
  • CAD / Fusion 360 Tutorials

Blogs

  • Voron General
  • Why we are the best digital marketing services in Chennai

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


About Me


Voron Serial #1


Voron Serial #2


Voron Serial #3


Voron Serial #4


Voron Serial #5


Voron Serial #6


Voron Serial #7

Found 8 results

  1. Version 1.2.5

    21,556 downloads

    The Mini Stealth v2 toolhead is up on GitHub now. I will keep these files here as the new parts are not compatible with the v1.2.5 parts. I will support both versions in the comments here. I still need to create new assembly instructions but a lot of the steps are similar to what is described here. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- This toolhead scales down the body of the Stealthburner to a size which fits into a V0.1/2. Fully assembled it weighs less than 260 grams. It is designed around the Mini Sherpa extruder and has versions for the Phaetus Dragonfly, Dragon and Rapido HF hotends as well as versions for the Mosquito, the Revo Voron and the Creality Spider Pro hotends. It incorporates a status LED as well as two for print visibility. I have also added stretched versions that should fit the Rapido UHF, Dragon UHF and the VolcoMosq hotends. The Dragon UHF and Rapido UHF hotends can fit in the same shroud. The UHF hotends will reduce Z travel by 8.5mm and the VolcoMosq by 3mm. I cannot verify the fitment so if there are any issues please leave a comment. There are now two hex pattern inlays based on the design by 3DP-MAMSIH and a tutorial on how to apply them to the shroud. The negative body feature of Prusa/Super Slicer can also be used to create a crop-top version of the shroud as described at the end of the tutorial. The shroud uses a pair of 4010 blowers which produce more airflow than a 5015 blower while also being notably less noisy and drawing less current. The depth of these fans do limit Y travel by 3mm on a V0.1 while the door is closed and tophat is on. The width of the main body at its base is also a very tight fit at the extremes of X travel. The shroud fits a 3010 hotend fan or a 3007 fan by using a clip-in adapter. This Mini Stealth - Mini Sherpa also fits well in a V2.4 or Trident and modified x-frame left and right pieces are included. There are cable chain mounts as well as strain_relief and umbilical_PCB mount for use in the V0.1. There are additional x-frame pieces that allow this Mini Stealth to be installed on a Switchwire. The nozzle is moved up by 3mm compared to the official Switchwire. The x-frame has geometry that allows a BL-Touch to fit locked between the two pieces. I have included a magnet mount and additional shroud .stl files to make this compatible with the ZeroClick mod. This toolhead also has versions that allow mounting a differential IR sensor. I have removed the mechanical Z endstop on my V0.1 and use the IR probe as an endstop and it has greatly simplified my homing sequence. There are additional x-frame pieces that allow mounting the Beacon3D probe, Euclid or Biqu MicroProbe for a V2.4, Trident or Switchwire. The included Blender file shows the entire assembly complete with screws and should answer most basic questions. Note on MGN-9 installation: The default 2mm x 10 plastic threading screw is too long for mounting the x-axis endstop. An M2 x 8 does the job fine. For mounting to the linear carriage use four M3 x 6 flat-head screws. Note: The MGN carriage shown is an MGN-9H, not the shorter MGN-9C used in the V0.1 mod. Preparation I recommend using a file to lightly remove any printing artifacts on the mating face of the shroud. Use a small file to smooth out the break-off edges of the LED PCB and make sure the LED pockets are clear of 'droopy bits' All three fans will need the wire retention piece clipped so the wires fit into the shroud channels easier. Differential IR Probe Installation The IR Probe needs to be screwed into place with two M2.5x8 FHCS before installing any of the fans, except with the VolcoMosq or UHF hotends where the probe needs to be glued on with CA glue. The Y-offset for this probe is 4mm in front of the nozzle and the X-offset is 32mm. I strongly recommend removing the 3-pin header and soldering wires directly to the probe PCB. When installed the wires will route out from the back of the IR probe cover to then join with the hotend and fan wires. I have included a cover to allow a connector at the probe but the wire management will be less than ideal.. Assembly Instructions After pressing the status LED diffuser into place, install the right part-cooling fan first by feeding the wires through the small hole at the bottom. Then feed the wires for the status LED and hotend fan through before starting to push the LED carrier into position. Carefully push the status LED carrier as far as it will go and press the fan into position while making sure not to pinch the part-cooling fan wires. Then press the remaining LEDs into their slots. (I measure out 35mm of wire to connect these LEDs together) Here is another view also showing how the hotend fan wires fit through the hole on the side of the status LED carrier. Insert the second part-cooling fan and splice the wires together with the first fan. Install the hotend with at least two M2.5x6 screws (M3x6 for the Revo Voron). The heater cartridge should be installed away from the LEDs to avoid overheating them. ( ** don't forget the PTFE tube ) Pre-assemble the extruder with your chosen cable management using M3x20 BHCS before installing into the shroud. Install the extruder with two M3x8 BHCS. Make sure that the LED and fan wires route around and exit behind the extruder. They can even fit in the gap below the extruder as shown in the picture. Gather the wires together with zip ties and secure them up to the cable management piece. Do your best to keep them tucked in close at the base of the extruder. I used a temporary zip tie at the top to keep the wires manageable until I installed the toolhead in the printer. The top of the cable door hooks under the back of the shroud and then you can use 2 - M3x6 BHCS to secure the cable door in place. Use two M3x40 BHCS to secure the toolhead to the x-carriage in a V0.1/V0.2. For installation in a Trident or V2.4 use two M3x50 BHCS. Happy Printing!
  2. Background: I was one of the many Kickstarters who bought the Creality CR-6 SE in 2020 as their first 3D printer. However, I am probably one of the rarer individuals who only unboxed and started printing with it 2 months ago. After that was upgraded with Octoprint, modded firmware, PEI, dual gear extruder, a new toolhead and various other quality of life improvements, the time came to move this new hobby obsession to the next level. £430 (£70 import tax) lighter, and two boxes arrived to the UK from China from Formbot within a week via Fedex. I am hoping to use the experiences here for a Voron v2.4r2 350mm in a few months time, as well as use this for v2.4's functional parts in ABS. The Build: Formbot V0.2r1 Kit with all ABS parts - includes Kirigami, Umbilical PCB Phaetus Dragon SF hotend with 0.4mm nozzle Siboor Steel Kirigami Bed BTT SKR Pico BTT Pi v1.2 BTT TFT35 SPI (for BTT PI) Klipper Expander - for extra fans, Neopixels and thermistors (https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Hardware/tree/master/Klipper_Expander) MFNano (https://github.com/MapleLeafMakers/MFNano) V0 No-Drop Nuts (https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/zruncho/V0_No_Drop_Nuts) Foldable spool mount (https://www.printables.com/model/542953-locking-foldable-spool-holder-for-voron-v02-0-v0-0) DIN mounted electronics (https://www.printables.com/model/586977-voron-v02-electronics-din-rail-bracket) Modesty Mesh (https://www.printables.com/model/407822-voron-v0-modesty-mesh) Cable duct (https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/ryandam/Cable_management_duct) Klipper Expander duct (https://www.printables.com/model/317519-voron-v01-v02-klipper-expander-cable-duct) V0 Stealth Handles (https://github.com/MapleLeafMakers/V0_Stealth_Handles) Kirigami PCB (https://github.com/livinhack/Kirigami-PCB) Kirigami Neopixel (https://github.com/MapleLeafMakers/Stealth_Bed_Front) Lighting - Rainbow On A Matchstick (https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Hardware/tree/master/Daylight) Chamber thermistor mount (https://github.com/MapleLeafMakers/V0_Chamber_Thermistor_Mount) ZeroClick probe (https://github.com/zruncho3d/ZeroClick) PanzerObserver camera mount (https://github.com/Slidr666/VoronUsers/tree/18599db8c29c9a272f852d1dac9ad5d014d0a496/printer_mods/Slidr/PanzerObserver2.4) Possibly - DragonBurner V8 toolhead and CAN bus (BTT) in future, depending on tinkering motivation! Preparation / Resources: I have been closely following @Perkeo's build, trying to absorb everything. Dmason's V0.1 blog has also been useful: https://3dpandme.com/category/printer-builds/v0-1/ Ballistic Tech has a vlog on this kit here: I am pretty happy with electronics, linux command line and mechanicals. Although had to purchase some crimpers and a couple of 123 blocks for the build. Additional things not included in the Formbot kit: Lithium EP2 grease, Isopropanol Alcohol 99.9%, threadlocker, various connectors (Wagos, XT60, JST). Voron Discord Profile: Lik#5169
  3. I'll get a head start on this build diary while the kit is still on the way. I've been plotting a V0 build almost from when the Trident was complete, but have been putting it off. Well, first kick was winning the printed V0 manual from the Voron holiday giveaway which arrived a while later and the latest & final kick was Fabreeko throwing a coupon at Nero commenters. Then when I "lamented" that it didn't work on the Rook and that the V0 kits in gray were out--thinking I had my out--Hector went and dug up one in stock and updated the website. I couldn't not buy the kit now, could I? I had planned a Rook build next as a father-daughter project but it looks like she gets to help build a V0.2. Darn. /s I am planning on Fusion Geomagnetic Mauve for the primary, and (with daughter & wife's input) Polymaker Galaxy Teal for the accent. Oddly this was an easier decision than the Trident build. Also, yes, it's going to be sparkly despite my membership of the GOMs. Now for a question. I do not have a Pi Zero 2W and am not willing to spend >$100 for a $15 CPU. I do have a couple of Pi 3Bs which will work. Also, the local MicroCenter has a ton of Zero 2 in stock. So, will the Zero 2 suffice (I think no)? Or, is there a mount out there somewhere for the Pi 3 on a V0? Though browsing the nice printed manual it looks like I can steal a Pi mount from the Trident files & print that DIN cleat. (now grabbing & hoarding those Pi 3s a while ago looks like a genius move) So the specs. It's the LDO V0.2-S1 kit and is coming pre-pimped-out. Top hat bumped to 100mm version LDO slide in M3 nuts Kirigami bed Pre assembled polyimide bed. 200W upgraded power supply Picobilical toolhead PCB & umbilical. LDO edition SKR Pico Revo Voron (the blue heat sink is getting swiped for the blue Trident which will donate it's red Voron edition heat sink. Because reasons). Hiwin X rail, HoneyBadger rails for the rest. Looks like a couple of plates: Honey Badger textured PEI & a dual smooth PEI/carbon fiber. I'll want to add a small-ish touch screen because the Waveshare 4.3" on the Trident running KlipperScreen is so, so nice. It will also make the printer a bit more kid friendly. Also later LEDs. Lots of LEDs. I'm tempted to try and see if I can force boop to work even though it's not supposed to.
  4. Version 1.0.0

    151 downloads

    CatPaw is the ideal toolhead for Voron Zero series with Orbiter 2.0 Extruder. I developed this toolhead as I was unhappy with the existing options. The standard Voron Zero 0.2 toolhead does not provide as much cooling as I prefer, and certainly less than the StealthBurner toolhead. My design goals were also minimum loss of print volume and maximum compatibility with toolheads and options for probe and filament sensor. CATPAW: Uses Voron Zero 0.2 toolhead cartridges, so should work with all toolheads for voron Zero 0.2 (fan saver recommended) 2x 4010 Blowers, with StealthBurner duct layout for near arctic level part cooling (2x 4010 provides more air than StealthBurner toolhead) Almost no loss in print volume. X axis should be full width, loss off a millimeter or so on X if you print with your door closed. (Magnets on my door are strong enough, so the door closes again if the toolhead bumps into it, giving me the full 120x120 mm even when printing ABS Option to add the slideswipe Probe. I shortened the probe, but all other parts can be used from https://github.com/SaltyPaws/Voron_0.1and0.2mods/SlideSwipe or original repo (https://github.com/chestwood96/SlideSwipe) Option to add under extruder filament Sensor Carriages are provided for MGN7 and MGN9 X-axis rails. It is recommended to print the provided X carriage for the appropriate rail. In order to minimize toolhead height, I lowered the screw hole for the rear mounting screw. The CATPAW toolhead will work with the stock Voron Zero 0.2 Carriage, but the screw securing the X-carriage from the rear will not fit. https://github.com/SaltyPaws/CATPAW_toolhead/raw/main/images/PXL_20240101_224037977.jpg?raw=true BOM 2x SHCS (preferred) or BHSC M3x25 bolt 3x M3 nut 2x NeoPixel 1x 3010 hotend fan 2x 4010 Blower 6x3mm magnets for probe (optional) 6mm steel ball for filament sensor (optional) Omron D2F-L micro-switch with lever for filament sensor (optional) 2x M2x12 or self-tapping screw to secure micro-switch (optional) Installation Instructions Assembly should be done in the following order: Probe Solder wires to 6x3mm magnets. In order to prevent loss of magnetism, let the magnets cool against another 6x3 magnet. Press the magnets into the slots by pushing the toolhead down on a hard object. Use a large flat soldering tip at around 230C to push the magnets deeper into the slots, you want the magnets to stick out ~0.5 to 1 mm. Again, let the magnets cool down attached to other magnets to prevent loss of magnetism. Ensure wire to magnet path has very low resistance (less than 4 ohm). route wires out trough little side window. Seal hole with red gasket maker. NeoPixels Create a chain of 2 neopixels. You do not have a lot of space to hide excess cable, so make the wires between the neopixels as short as possible, while still allowing them to slide into the slots. Test the neopixels! It will be more rework to remove the hotend fan and part cooling fans later. Fans First install 3010 part cooling fan. Be very careful to only press the edges of the fan, the fan will break when pushing the center of the fan (ask me how I know...) Then proceed with installing the blower fans. Use a knife to cut the upper right hand side of the blower fan (looking back to front). This is required for routing the majority of the wires. I used superglue to keep the fan together as you will remove a fan closing latch. I accidentally cut int the fanbox, and sealed up the hole with red gasket maker. For details - see pictures below: https://github.com/SaltyPaws/CATPAW_toolhead/raw/main/images/PXL_20231225_175242278.jpg?raw=true https://github.com/SaltyPaws/CATPAW_toolhead/raw/main/images/PXL_20231225_175256608.jpg?raw=true https://github.com/SaltyPaws/CATPAW_toolhead/raw/main/images/PXL_20231225_175325632.jpg?raw=true Toolhead Cardridge Ensure the heater wires are installed pointing towards the right hand fan that has space for wire routing. Thermistor, probe and fan wires will fit on the other side (left hand side fan). Hold off on installing the zip-ties, these are best installed after the toolhead is installed on the carriage. Filament Sensor Solder wires to filament sensor (2 outer most legs). You may want to shorten the legs somewhat for an easier fit. Trim lever, so that lever does not extend past micro-switch body Install micro-switch and ball Test sensor Install Toolhead Carefully mount toolhead, ensuring that wires are not pinched, and belt is not rubbing on gantry. The bulk of the wires will go in the gap carved out on the right hand side fan, the other side will have sufficient space for probe and fan wires. Min Probe See installation instructions in orignal repo: https://github.com/chestwood96/SlideSwipe
  5. Voron Design just announced the official release of the Voron 0.2 3D printer. This compact and portable machine has a 120x120x120 build volume and utilizes a CoreXY design. It features a low mass direct drive extruder and an enclosed chamber, as well as a 24v DC bed and Klipper firmware. One of the major highlights of the Voron 0.2 is the new Mini Stealth Burner toolhead, which supports the Revo VORON, Dragon, Dragonfly BMO, DropEffect XG, and Creality Spider Pro. The drive units have also been updated with a reduction in motor screw count and the removal of the endstop for sensorless homing. In terms of the frame, there have been no changes from the previous version. However, the tophat has undergone some significant updates, including an extrusion-based design with hinged panels and cam locks to secure it in place. All panels are 3mm thick and the side panels are now identical. The X/Y joints have also been modified, with the tops becoming 1mm smaller to accommodate the Mini Stealth Burner and the endstop block removed for sensorless homing. The bed assembly has undergone some changes as well, with the printed parts being updated and the bed position moved 3mm to the rear. Finally, the feet/skirts have been updated with the inclusion of the Trident skirt community mod, and the front idlers now have cam locks added. If you are upgrading from the V0.1 version, be sure to check out the configurator on the Voron Design website for a list of necessary parts. We hope you enjoy the new and improved Voron 0.2 3D printer! You can find a replay of the livestream here: You can download the file from the Official GitHub Voron Zero repo, or here ate TeamFDM: Highlights Compact and portable 120x120x120 build volume CoreXY Low mass direct drive extruder Enclosed chamber 24v DC bed Klipper firmware Release History V0.2 (2023 January) A majority of the printed parts have changed. The configurator will give you an idea of parts needed if you are upgrading from V0.1. Toolhead New design: Mini Stealth Burner Direct Drive Extruder with BMG gears and 20mm thick pancake motor with 10 tooth spur gear Improved part cooling ducts (fans are same as V0.1) Supports Revo VORON, Dragon, Dragonfly BMO, DropEffect XG, Creality Spider Pro Drive units Motor screw count reduction Endstop removed for sensorless homing Frame No changes Tophat All panels have changed All side panels are identical Extrusion based Tophat Hinged design Cam locks to secure tophat in place Panels/Clips All Panels are 3mm Deck panel changed, new panel is not required Split rear panel X/Y Joints Tops became 1mm smaller to accommodate MiniSB Endstop block removed for sensorless homing Bed Assembly Printed parts changed, bed position moved 3mm to the rear Feet/Skirts Trident skirt community mod folded into offical release Front Idlers Cam Locks added
  6. Version 1.0.0

    55 downloads

    I modified this v0 trident skirt file found here here on GitHub to have a sub-component that can be easily sliced into a mesh. I'm certain that the printable mount from the aforementioned page can be modified and adapted independently to attach other displays to this skirt. I made this for another user, but im posting it so that others don't have to put in as much effort as I did going forward. To make this .STL do the mesh thing, drop it into superslicer, right-click the part, hover over the "split" option in the menu, then select "split into parts". when you do this, the part will be split into two merged parts in your parts list view in the slicer. Select the flat solid skirt cover part in the list, right click the selected part and click "Perimeters & Shell" and "infill". Set the number of top and bottom solid layers to 0. I like to make the perimeter count 2. Screenshots from slicer are in the Spoiler below if you want visual help. I used Honeycomb infill at 23% density and a filament swap at layer 4 to get the result in the IRL photo here. I recommend playing around with the infill settings a bit because you can get some really cool results. Gyroid and rectilinear infills make pretty neat meshes at higher densities (30%-50%). More visual examples are in the spoiler below. The rest of the v0.2 skirts with pre-prepared meshes can be found here. One-Part side skirts with pre-prepared meshes can be found here, posted as the "closed" variants of the STLs. I followed this video tutorial to make this from the provided STEP file on the previously mentioned/linked printables page. The printables file that I modified was derived from golas's v0 trident skirt remix
  7. Version 2023.01.07

    260 downloads

    The official release of the Voron Zero 3D printer. You can find the BOM in the configurator located at the Voron Design website. The current revision is V0.2 Printed Parts Guide Highlights Compact and portable 120x120x120 build volume CoreXY Low mass direct drive extruder Enclosed chamber 24v DC bed Klipper firmware Release History V0.2 (2023 January) A majority of the printed parts have changed. The configurator will give you an idea of parts needed if you are upgrading from V0.1. Toolhead New design: Mini Stealth Burner Direct Drive Extruder with BMG gears and 20mm thick pancake motor with 10 tooth spur gear Improved part cooling ducts (fans are same as V0.1) Supports Revo VORON, Dragon, Dragonfly BMO, DropEffect XG, Creality Spider Pro Drive units Motor screw count reduction Endstop removed for sensorless homing Frame No changes Tophat All panels have changed All side panels are identical Extrusion based Tophat Hinged design Cam locks to secure tophat in place Panels/Clips All Panels are 3mm Deck panel changed, new panel is not required Split rear panel X/Y Joints Tops became 1mm smaller to accommodate MiniSB Endstop block removed for sensorless homing Bed Assembly Printed parts changed, bed position moved 3mm to the rear Feet/Skirts Trident skirt community mod folded into offical release Front Idlers Cam Locks added V0.1 Inital release (2021 April) See https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-0/releases/tag/V0.1 V0.0 Updates and fixes (2020 Sept) See https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-0/releases/tag/V0.0r1 V0.0 Initial release (2020 April) See https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-0/releases/tag/V0.0
  8. Version 2022.01.07

    62 downloads

    The official Voron0.2 Assembly Manual This file, and any archived versions was originally sourced from https://vorondesign.com/ and has not been changed or modified. You can view the GPL3 License at the official Voron GitHub Repository https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-0/blob/Voron0.2/LICENSE
×
×
  • Create New...