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Printable Voron User Mods

Voron User Mods, or "UserMods", are a collection of community created and Team FDM curated modification for Voron Printers. All of these mods are available on the VoronUsers Github repo and unless otherwise specified follow the Voron communities GPL3.0 Licensing. Use any Mods at your own risk, if you make modification please share them on the VoronUsers repo.

Mod Authors: Have a Voron mod? Upload it at TeamFDM.com and let us know you're the author. We will ensure you can update and curate your files for more feedback! Please include tags for what Voron, or extruder your mod is compatible with. 

468 files

  1. V0 BTT PI TFT50 Mount

    This is a flip down TFT50 screen mount for the Voron V0.1. It's still a work in progress but it works and allows the screen to fold down so the door can be opened.

    47 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    2 comments

    Submitted

  2. An Idea for a chamber heater

    This is a sketch of an Idea that I had for a chamber heater. Its an V6 Hotend and an radial 5015 blower... There should be no gap between the heater block and the heat sink. 
    I need help / time to test it...  what temperatur is acceptable, flow..... 

    10 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    7 comments

    Updated

  3. Air Filter HEPA + Activated Carbon + CanBus ERCF wiring + Stealth

    Burst from Discord Voron asked my if I can do an update of my old "HEPA + activated carbon Air filter mod" for his new machine: 
    he wanted wiring for CanBus and ERCF 
    I made it and added some "stealth" to it. 
    Work in progress...
    This is based on Fanny Pack Air Filter. I dont know who made it originally.

    42 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    3 comments

    Updated

  4. Revo Nozzle Skirt Trident

    Revo_Nozzle_Skirt
    A Revo nozzle box hidden in a Voron Trident skirt.

    Compatible with 250/300/350 Tridents.
    250 - 2 Nozzles each 300 - 4 Nozzles each 350 - 5 Nozzles each Bill Of Materials
    2x 6mm x 3mm Round Magnet 2x M3 Heat-set insert 2x M3x8 BHCS Instructions
    Print a Skirt and Nozzle Holder the appropriate size for your printer. the A version is for the front-left and back-right corners. and the B version is for the other 2 corners. install the 2 heat-set inserts into the ends of nozzle-holder part. install 1 magnet in the skirt, and one in the nozzle-holder such that they attract eachother when the door is installed. insert the nozzle holder into the skirt and fasten with 2 M3x8 BHCS Remove the stock skirt piece from your trident and install the new one in it's place.

    26 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  5. C17 EXT CARTRIDGE

    C17 -EXT-CARTRIDGE, HEPA Carbon filter


    The C17-EXT-CARTRIDGE is designed to be used with the C17-EXT HEPA Carbon filter.
    This is a first publication, although all parts has been tested, there may be errors do not hesitate to contact me.
    Assembly Manual

    BOMs
    The list of parts is described in the manual.
    HEPA 13 Filter
    Use HEPA 13 filters from 10mm to 18mm thick. The best is to find a HEPA 13 filter for vacuum cleaner and cut it with a cutter. The references change according to the country.
    I tested this one after cutting:
    The best but I do not find the reference in other countries: Amazon.fr
    Aliexpress 1
    Aliexpress 2
    Carbon
    WARNING : Although the C17-EXT does not return treated air to the printer enclosure, use Acid-free Activated Carbon (Coconuts for example : amazon) !
    Credits
    The C17-EXT Activated Carbon Filter was modelled in Fusion 360.
    Contributing
    A complaint is a gift. Please, help me to improve the C17-EXT-CARTRIDGE !
    License
    Distributed under GNU General Public License version 3.0 (GPLv3)
    Contact
    Discord: OboMaker3D#0669 - ()
    Acknowledgements
    The Voron Dev Team

    3 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  6. C17 EXT

    C17 -EXT, External HEPA Carbon filter

    The C17-EXT filter replaces the standard filter of the Voron 2.4 and to add one on the Switchwire . It has a 120mm fan and can use the C17-EXT-Cartridge filter (HEPA 13 and Carbon) or commercial HEPA Carbon filters.
    This is a first publication, although all parts has been tested, there may be errors do not hesitate to contact me.
    2 configurations
    With adapter for standard back panel Voron

    With specific back panel

    For the Switchwire model only configuration 2 is possible.
    2 options to replace the grid

    Assembly Manual

    BOMs
    The list of parts is described in the manual according to the chosen configuration.
    Fan
    For the 120mm fan, follow the recommendations in the documentation. 3 models:
    Efficient but noisy, the best choice (4000 rpm) : Aquatuning Alphacool 24810 ES (tested) Less powerful but quieter (3000 rpm) : Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 3000 PWM (tested, acceptable for commercial cartridges) Less powerful but quieter (3000 rpm) : Sunon MEC0251V1-000U-A99 (Not tested) If you find other models at 4000 rpm, please send me the references.
    Filter cartridge
    Two possibilities :
    Using the C17-EXT-CARTRIDGE Use a commercial cartridge : Alveo3D Credits
    The C17-EXT Activated Carbon Filter was modelled in Fusion 360.
    Contributing
    A complaint is a gift. Please, help me to improve the C17-EXT filter !
    License
    Distributed under GNU General Public License version 3.0 (GPLv3)
    Contact
    Discord: OboMaker3D#0669 - ()
    Acknowledgements
    The Voron Dev Team

    22 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  7. TipTophat

    TipTophat
    TipTophat is an alternative Tophat for the Voron v0.1 which uses the BOM panels. It provides 30mm in additional height as well as better access via the additional door. It places the side panels fully virtically to make the tophat square. It also comes with hinges that can be used with the Tophat hinge mod.
    For the bleeding edge releases, see my development repo



    Printing:
    Use the Voron defaults and print in ABS. I have successfully printed the main body part(s) using 0.5mm layer width and 0.25mm layer height with 25% infill. This reduces both the time to print and the amount of filament used The parts are orientated correctly in the STLs If using the rear hing, print the appropriate Hinge_panel_left and Hinge_panel_right from Tophat hinge mod There is the choice of printing the whole body using the Unibody if you have a printer with a print bed of at least 238x238mm. Otherwise, you can print the separate quarters on a printer with at least 119x119mm printer bed. So they can be printed on a Voron v0, but it will be tight!
    BOM:
    Original BOM panels (panels of 2.5mm and 3.0mm have been tested) 28x M3x8mm** SHCS/BHCS (2x door frame hinge, 4x rear hinge (optional), 18x panel connectors, 4x tophat pins (optional)) 1x M3x12mm SHCS/BHCS (door hinge) 1x M3x25mm SHCS/BHCS (door hinge) 28x Brass heat inserts (2x door frame hinge, 4x rear hinge (optional), 18x panel connectors, 4x tophat pins (optional)) 2x 6x3mm Neodymium magnets VHB tape ** If your panels are 3mm in depth you will need to substitute 4x M3x8mm screws for 4x M3x(10 or 12)mm screws for the four mid connectors
    Assembly:
    Note: These instructions use directions based on the tophat in front of you being upside down with the back facing away from you and the front in front of you. Once you place the tophat on the printer, instruction directions are as you look at the printer from the front.
    Building the frame and inserting the panels:
    Place brass heat inserts into all the holes you are going to use. This is likely to be everything apart from the top 4 holes. Those top 4 holes are if you use the stock style pins to locate the tophat on the printer instead of using hinges at the back.

    If you are building using the unibody instead of the four quadrants, you need to arrange the four quadrants with Q1 at the back left, Q2 back right, Q3 front left, Q4 front right. They need to be aligned correctly.
    Place the top panel into the center of the bed and attach four connectors being very careful not to overtighten them, otherwise you can easily crack the print or the panels. It's better to have the connectors loose initially and tighten slightly until the panel doesn't move.

    Now work from the left, to the back, to the right, using the side and bottom connectors for each panel.

    Building the door:
    The door connector takes a single 6x3mm Neodymium magnet. You should be able to press fit the magnet into the hole. If it's too loose, use a bit of superglue. If it's too tight, use a file of drill bit to widen it a little. Attach this to the frame.

    Take the two door hinge parts and assemble. The screws go into plastic, so do not tighten. The hinges should be a little bit loose so that it moves cleanly without binding. This can be adjusted later.

    Put VHB tape on the panel hinge.

    With the hinge open, put the panel into place abutting the panel into the hinge and centered. Press the panel to the hinge with some pressure to ensure a good seal.

    Screw the hinge to the side of the tophat frame. There is adjustment available here for later if there are issues with the door opening/closing or being askew.


    If you are going to use the hinged tophat, screw the hinge parts to the back of the tophat frame. You should also fit the hinge parts to the printer.
    If you are using the standard locator pins, screw those in.
    Put the tophat onto the printer and screw the rear hinges together if you are using them. Note: The hinge holes are deliberately oversized to allow for different tolerances and spacing for the tophat to sit well on the printer.
    Hanging the door:
    Open the tophat door and close the main printer door. Now close the tophat door and check that it does not hit the main door. If it does there are a few adjustments that can be made later:

    Adding the handle:
    Take the door handle and the second magnet. With the tophat door closed, put the magnet against the frame magnet to get the correct orientation (use a marker pen on the magnet if it helps).

    Maintaining the correct orientation place the magnet into one of the holes in the foot of the handle:

    Place VHB tape over both of the handles feet:

    With the tophat door closed, align the handle with the magnet at the top opposite the magnet in the frame and keeping the handle straight press it onto the door. If it's not quite right, it should be fairly easy to carefully, and slowly, remove the handle and do it again.

    You can adjust the frame mount from the inside screws to change the fitting of the hinge. You can also tighten and loosen the hinge screws to lower and raise the door panel. If none of that works, unscrew the door hinge and take the hinge tophat door off. You can usually remove the hinge from the door, by very slowly pulling the hinge from the door panel, being careful not to snap the hinge or crack the panel. You can then redo the hanging steps for a better fit.
    Changelog:
    2022-07-22 Updated Body Quarters and STEP file

    18 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  8. Handle

    V2.4 Handle
    Carrying handle for Voron 2.4 with 6mm clearance for panel clamping. The design was heavily inspired by https://github.com/yanyixiang/Voron/tree/main/舒服坚固的手把BY_路易斯亚细亚.
    The handle is mounted on 2020 aluminium extrusions with 5 T-nuts. It should also fit on Trident and Voron 1.8.

    Printing
    default Voron print settings no supports needed use accent color for middle part
    BOM
    Size Qty M3x12 SHCS 3 M5x16 BHCS 5 M5 T-Nut 5 M3 heat set inserts 3
    Assembly instructions
    put heat set inserts in inner handle part
    put T-nuts in aluminium extrusion (2 T-nuts in top slot, 3 T-nuts in side slot, coarsely adjust hole distances)
    attach inner handle part to top side of the extrusion
    attach middle and outer handle part to the side of the extrusion; do not tighten M5 screws yet
    align parts and put in M3 screws; tighten all screws

    72 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  9. SideSkirtPowerSwitch

    Side Skirt Power Switch
    A mount for the GSW-42 rocker switch in the skirt element to allow easy access to a power switch without reaching behind the printer and trying to find it by touch. Can be substituted with GSW-41 if you don't want it to glow red when turned on.
    Parts Required
    (1) GSW-42 illuminated rocker switch Some mains wire Spade crimp connectors Butt crimp connectors Printing
    Print as is for the

    12 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  10. Side Skirt Power Switch - Retro Style IBM Computer Power Switch

    When form meets function.
    I wanted to add a power switch to the side of my printer so as not to have to lean around for access. Anyone with 80's computers experience will know about the famous 'side switches' of early IBM home computers. So I took inspiration there and started looking for the original switch.
    Sadly, the original switch (Chili 3031) was discontinued and I'm not going to put an actual retro switch on my build so I found this one that has similar enough looks, though a bit smaller than the original:

    https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/c-k/D602J53S205QA/3752581
     


    22 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    3 comments

    Updated

  11. DRO Style, Side-Mounting, Housing for Official Raspberry Pi 7 inch Touchscreen

    This is an "expert mod" and should only be attempted if you understand the risks involved, which include:
    -ruining your printer's frame, which means starting over your project... The mod requires you to drill through your frame. I suppose the cable could be routed outside but, hey, in for a penny...
    -dealing with RF interference on the usb lines which may produce hard to detect issues: The Raspberry Pi is going to be housed with the screen so the USB lines need to be passed back down in the cable to connect the main board and the webcam: care needs to be taken here to reduce RF interference so it involves wrapping wires in foil tape.
    also, the actual print is challenging because it includes aspects of 'print-in-place' that require good temperature tuning to succeed: the cover is printed in place with the main case and need to be broken out with tools after printing. If you are good enough to drill your frame, I'm sure you'll figure out the print...
    I doubt anyone will try this one but I'm putting it out there given the amount of work this was to perfect. So I could go on with details but I'll stop here. PM me if you want build this and have questions.
    So for the uninitiated, a DRO is a computer you add to a machine tool to make it partly CNC and generally looks like this:

    It is typically hanging around on the sides and most importantly, at eye level !
     

    40mm x 10mm fan in fashionable brown 😉 snaps in tight



     
     
    ADDITIONAL NOTES:
     
    Wow, that's an honor, I hope you like it. Here is a bunch of extra info on that. did you look at the STL's ? what do you think of the print-in-place cover?
    As it is now, the base piece is sized for my thick enclosure at 7mm. This can be adjusted:

    Also, I did not test it yet because I'm waiting on parts to finish a bunch of peripheral stuff all at once when I put the printer out of commission. It should be next weekend. I'm pretty sure the Rpi will fit ok but I have a little doubt about the clearance between the fan and the pi's pins. I used drawings to figure out clearances but I may have did it a bit tight. The cover may need modifications but all the other parts are tested and working fine.
    to separate the cover from the main body, you need to pry it from the inside from under the screw posts. if your print settings are just right, it pops off with moderate force. to do this, I placed the part in an open vice and pried with one of these:

    drill size is 9/32" or 7mm or 7.5mm max. drill at high speed and low pressure to prevent sudden biting, take breaks to prevent melting of the drill guide
    The cable I used is a leftover from industrial worksites. the passages are for a 7mm cable so anything smaller than that will work. you will need to splice usb cables somewhere in there so take care of adding shielding, especially where the cables pass near the z motors at the corner of the base
    for the base: 2 x m3 t-nuts and 2 x m3-12 screws
    for the arm and main body joints, 2 x m3-30 and 2 x m3-12
    for the face: 4 x m3-8 and for the cover 2 x m3-12
    also, the screen's included m2.5 brass posts are too long by almost 2mm and need to be replaced. -->testing needed but I got an assortment box:
    https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06XX28ZZR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
     
    Finally got the time to get it working:
    power management:  I soldered on the monitor's PCB cause I had no space to plug on the header. I added 2 pairs of wires for the Pi and for the fan :

    USB:
     
    For cables, I just used 2 spare USB A-B cables from a dusty box. Try to get the thinnest possible wires that are shielded.
    Since the cable needed a splice in any case, I bought 'Type-A' USB connectors to make my own cable termination:
     

     
    https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/adam-tech/USB-AP-S-RA-SMT/9832307


    Keep the wires as short as possible. I used a ferrule to join up the sheathings from both cables, which includes stainless steel, aluminum, copper, cotton and mylar... It can't be soldered !
    Hot-Snot for that extra Chineseum touch also, I soldered a solid copper rod between the two connectors for strength. you can see it through the snot on the right side

     
    As for the other ends of the cables, I just did a simple soldered splice with heat shrink: made them as short as possible, as straight as possible, and I introduced 1 turn between the data lines in the joint and shielded with foil tape.
    RF shielding and hot-snot hider: it's just aluminum foil tape:
     

    All working! looks awesome!

    20 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    3 comments

    Updated

  12. Doomcube Slotted Skirts with Fan Mount

    Doomcube Slotted Skirts with Fan Mount.

    9 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  13. V0.1 Magnetic Panel conversion

    Converts the current Voron v0.1 panel mounting parts into easily removeable magnetic mounts. Perfect for switching between ABS/PLA without the hassle of unscrewing everytime.
    Mounts using the basic m3x8 hardware that the original parts mounted with.
    Included are the files for a spacer to fill the gap between the frame and the panels to help with heat loss, this is not needed but will help. I have installed some 12mmx6mm adhesive draft excluder found easily on amazon. You will need to print 8 of each "part 1" and "part 2" to fit each side, they will not totally fill the gap, there is a small space left on the top and bottom to allow gripping the panel to remove it.
    Required hardware:
    16x m3x8 (original hardware)
    16x m3 nut (original hardware)
    16x 8mmx2mm neodymium magnets (You can source easy enough, but here is a link to the ones i have used from UK Amazon; https://www.amazon.co.uk/Magnet-Expert%C2%AE-8mm-thick-Neodymium/dp/B007JTL25M/ref=sr_1_2?crid=VG4LDUUBDICR&keywords=8mmx2mm+magnet&qid=1647471673&sprefix=8mmx2mm+magnet%2Caps%2C48&sr=8-2 )
    Optional hardware:
    2m 6mm thick adhesive draft excluder
    32x m3x8
    32x m3 nut
     

    632 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    4 comments

    Updated

  14. Handle and Nevermore mount to magnetic panels by bravefruitcake

    Here's some modified inserts to the V0.1 magnetic panels design by bravefruitcake, I've made a single filler piece with option for single screw mounting, optionally a filler that has built in handles, and a filler that lets a nevermore filter be magnetically mounted with a magnet power connector. Turn it on/off by snapping it on / off.
    Also a strong magnetic rear panel mount.
    Magnetic electric connector was from aliexpress 'Magnetic Connector 2 Pole Pogopin Male Female 2A Spring Loaded Pogo Pin Waterproof Pad DC Power Charging Connector'

    166 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    1 comment

    Updated

  15. Trident Skirt Lights

    BOM
    Part NO. Qty LCSC Conn_01x03 2 C131339 WS2812-2020 12 C965555 Assembly
    Order the pcb at e.g. pcbway or jlcpcb (you need two for one printer) Order the parts at e.g. lcsc Print the new skirts (You WILL need supports) Print the new logo inserts (You WILL need supports) in the meantime, assemble the pcb Push in the new logo inserts in your skirts Push the PCB into the logo insert, no additional fastening required Wire up the pcbs to your controller Add them as normal neopixels to your config [neopixel my_skirts] pin: YOUR_NEOPIXEL_PIN chain_count: 24 initial_RED: 1.0 https://github.com/Gi7mo/TridentSkirtLights/raw/main/Images/Assembly.png https://github.com/Gi7mo/TridentSkirtLights/raw/main/Images/trident-skirt-lights.gif Notes
    This project does not come with any warranty, if you choose to build/use one, you are doing this at your own risk!  

    26 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    5 comments

    Updated

  16. EBB42-Stealthburner-CW1-Mount

    ebb42 mount for cw1 nema17 pancake with umbilical strain relief
    Decided to go to canbus umbilical for my stealthburner on cw1 and remove both x and y cable chains. As the ebb42 is a new product there had been no mounts that have been released at that time so i came up with this design. The mount sits comfortably on the rear of my extruder nema17 pancake motor and spaces the ebb42 nicely away from the rear of the motor, the m3 motor screws i have are slightly to long so i used spacers on top of the ebb42 to counteract this, also i used a cable strain relief to protect the 4 wires to the ebb42 which the dimentions are 5mm hole, 28mm length, diameter 11.8mm, slot diameter 7.55mm x2.1mm which goes into a little slide in wedge to hold into place and also used expandable braided sleeving size 3-9mm which protects the wires and sits nice and snug in the strain relief.
    i also modified the original stealthburner cw1 pcb cover by Demosth to fit with this mount (https://www.teamfdm.com/files/file/535-stealthburner-cw1-pcb-cover).
     

    71 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  17. Y Endstop Adjustable Gantry Mount

    After installing the btt ebb42 canbus and removing the x y cable chains i tried the ab motor mount y endstop mod but found it moved y max forward about 1mm which affected my euclid gantry mount deploy and stowing so i designed an adjustable gantry mounted y endstop with jst 2 pin socket connection and the wires go easily through the z cable chain to the electronics compartment, the mount fixes to the rear gantry via 2x M5 screws with T nuts and has 2 M3 heatsets installed to mount the endstop holder which uses the normal omron endstop switch fitted with standard bom 2x M2x10 self tapping screws.
    Printed using standard voron print spec

    26 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  18. Galileo extruder for stealthBurner

    https://github.com/JaredC01/Galileo
     
    BOM
    Galileo componants 4x M3X25 3x M3X16mm 8x heat brass insert (BOM insert)  
    Appreciate my work ?
    buy me a coffee https://www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=9EL8CEDVY28DA thank you and happy printing
     
     
     

    325 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    13 comments

    Updated

  19. Stealtburner with LGX PCB mount

    Fitted the Bondtech LGX extruder to the Stealthburner. Could not find a mount and designed this. Use at your own discretion. Change and mod as you wish and pay back to the community. Hope someone finds this useful.   Step file included in zip. Uses M3 x D5 x L4 brass inserts for attaching the PCB. Printed in ABS 0.2mm resolution 18% infill. Print with supports enabled.

    32 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  20. Monster8 Heatsert Mount

    Monster8 DIN clips (with heatset inserts)
    There's a DIN clip mount from Makerbase but I don't like it because it's too big to print on the bed of a V0 and I hate threading small bolts into plastic.
    So I made this version. It works!


    10 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  21. Enlongated Bowden Retainer (for use with longer spool holders)

    Simply elongated the stock bowden retainer to be more inline with the roller spool holders like the one below.
     
    This adds 35mm to the overall length of the retainer.

    27 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  22. StealthOrbiter

    StealthOrbiter
    This mod aims to mount the orbiter V2.0 extruder to the stealthburner assembly. In addition, it incorporates the Orbiter filament sensor to enable support for the ERCF.
    In addition, it also includes a canbus toolhead mount (BTT EBB36 board for now). If you would instead prefer to use a cable chain, spacelab_2021 has developed a cable chain mount that attaches to the back of the orbiter motor here: https://www.teamfdm.com/files/file/485-orbiter-2-clockwork-beta/
    Development Roadmap
    1)[COMPLETE] Initial release!
    2)Add cable shroud.
    3)Incorporate fan into cable shroud (cooling canbus toolhead stepper).
    4)Design version of orbiter mount with cable chain attachment.

    Installation
    Instructions coming soon?
    Acknowledgments
    - spacelab_2021, for providing the starting point I used in developing this mod
     

    129 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    4 comments

    Updated

  23. Z-Motor cover Trident

    2 Parts 
    Mounts snap in place 
    0.2 layer Height 20% infil  i hope this help 

    98 downloads

       (1 review)

    1 comment

    Submitted

  24. SB X-carriage Euclid probe 2.4/Trident MGN 12

    Stealth Burner X-carriage Euclid probe 2.4/Trident  / MGN 12
    left  Right mounting the EUCLID probe with self taping m3x8mm screws
    this X-carriage is remixed from 
    https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Afterburner/tree/sb-beta/STLs/X_Carriage
    I hope this helps
     
     

    140 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    9 comments

    Submitted

  25. V6 Bowden Head fan shroud

    I was dealing with serious jamming in the hotend every print. 
    On my research I noticed almost every picture of the V6 hotend shows a fan shroud that forces the air to get pushed trough the cooling fins. 

    It seems not necessary on the Voron design because there is not a lot of space where the air can go, but rememeber: air is like any other fluid, getting forced it always wants to get the way wich has less resistance and in this case it is beside the cooler and nothing of them will go inside the cooling fins. especialy that tiny amount of air from an 30mm fan. 

    For me it works well, getting rid of the jamming by this little mod 🙂  

    + getting sure you have added thermal compound paste on heatbreak/cooler 

    0 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

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