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Printable Voron User Mods

Voron User Mods, or "UserMods", are a collection of community created and Team FDM curated modification for Voron Printers. All of these mods are available on the VoronUsers Github repo and unless otherwise specified follow the Voron communities GPL3.0 Licensing. Use any Mods at your own risk, if you make modification please share them on the VoronUsers repo.

Mod Authors: Have a Voron mod? Upload it at TeamFDM.com and let us know you're the author. We will ensure you can update and curate your files for more feedback! Please include tags for what Voron, or extruder your mod is compatible with. 

640 files

  1. Trident Chamber Heater Mount

    I wanted to reach ABS/ASA temperatures faster, and be able to maintain 55-60°C for those larger warp-prone prints, so I designed this chamber heater mount.
    If you're going to attempt this, make sure to use a temperature fuse to protect your printer (and your house) from burning down in the event of failure/over-heating.
    I used 2x 3mmx5mm long heatserts inserted from the front, and 3mmx12mm screws to attach the heater.
    4x 3mm t-nuts and 4x 3mmx10mm screws are required for mounting the bracket.
    I used this 120VAC 250W heater (with 12VDC fan): https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07NYX5DKD?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
    I used this SSR: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06WLNHPWK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
    I loosely followed the chamber heater post from @ahough, and this would've been way harder (nigh impossible) without their post and the comments section. Notable mention goes out to @Dousi as well, since I copied and modified their config example to use as my own.
    I hope the configs below help someone else along their way.
    ********
    ********  Here is my chamber heater section within my printer.cfg file:
    ********
     
     
    #####################################################################
    #   CHAMBER HEATER
    #####################################################################
    [thermistor chamber_thermistor] #define "chamber_thermistor" characteristics
    temperature1: 25
    resistance1: 100000
    beta: 3950
    [thermistor heater_thermistor] #define "heater_thermistor" characteristics
    temperature1: 0.0
    resistance1: 32116.0
    temperature2: 40.0
    resistance2: 5309.0
    temperature3: 80.0
    resistance3: 1228.0
    [temperature_sensor heater_temp] #this is the temp sensor for the 10K probe inserted in the heater core
    sensor_type: heater_thermistor   #use temp sensor characteristics as defined in "heater_thermistor"
    sensor_pin: PA2                  #Manta 8P temp sensor input pin. This temp probe is glued to the heater core with UV resin
    min_temp: -100                   #set minimum temp before error/shutdown
    max_temp: 140                    #SAFETY max heater core temperature, printer will shutdown above this temp
    [heater_generic chamber_heater]  #setup chamber heater
    heater_pin: PE3                  #Manta 8P heater output pin to SSR. This temp probe is mounted near the top of my chamber
    sensor_type: chamber_thermistor  #use temp sensor characteristics as defined in "chamber_thermistor"
    sensor_pin: PA1                  #Manta *P temp sensor input pin
    control: watermark               #use watermark control method (on/off)
    max_delta: 0.1                   #set the delta temp to energize/deenergize chamber heater
    max_power: 1.0                   #set maximum power of heater 1.0 = 100%
    min_temp: -100                   #set minimum temp before error/shutdown
    max_temp: 70                     #SAFETY max chamber temperature, printer will shutdown above this temp
    pwm_cycle_time: 0.01666          #Set this to avoid room lights flickering on higher power heaters. This value works well for 60Hz power. 0.1 is 10Hz
    [verify_heater chamber_heater]   #setup chamber heater verification parameters
    max_error: 120
    check_gain_time: 240
    hysteresis: 5
    heating_gain: 1
    [heater_fan heater_fan]         #setup fan attached to back of chamber heater
    pin: PE4                        #Manta 8P fan output pin. Jumper selected for 12V
    max_power: 1.0                  #set maximum power of fan 1.0 = 100%
    heater: chamber_heater          #when "chamber_heater" is ON fan will  be ON
    heater_temp: 30                 #fan will turn off below this level
     
    #####################################################################
    #   MACROS
    #####################################################################
    [gcode_macro M191]
    gcode:
      {% set S = params.S | default(0) | float %}
      SET_HEATER_TEMPERATURE HEATER=chamber_heater TARGET={S}
      M118 Chamber heating to {S}C
      M118 Waiting for chamber heating...
      TEMPERATURE_WAIT SENSOR="heater_generic chamber_heater" MINIMUM={S}
      M118 Chamber heating {S}C is done.
     
     
     
    ********
    ********  I also run Ellis' bedfans, and modified bedfans.cfg, "Command overrides" section to the below:
    ********
    ############ Command overrides ############
    # Override, set fan speeds to low and start monitoring loop.
    [gcode_macro SET_HEATER_TEMPERATURE]
    rename_existing: _SET_HEATER_TEMPERATURE
    gcode:
        # Parameters
        {% set HEATER = params.HEATER|default("None") %}
        {% set TARGET = params.TARGET|default(0)|int %}
        # Vars
        {% set THRESHOLD = printer["gcode_macro _BEDFANVARS"].threshold|int %}
        
        {% if HEATER|lower == "extruder" %}
            M104 S{TARGET}
        {% elif HEATER|lower == "heater_bed" %}
            M99140 S{TARGET}
        {% elif HEATER|lower == "chamber_heater" %}
          _SET_HEATER_TEMPERATURE HEATER=chamber_heater TARGET={TARGET}
        {% else %}
            {action_respond_info("Heater %s not supported" % HEATER)}
        {% endif %}
        # Set fans to low if heater_bed temp is requested above threshold temp, and kick off monitoring loop.
        {% if HEATER|lower == "heater_bed" %}
            {% if TARGET >= THRESHOLD %}
                BEDFANSSLOW
                UPDATE_DELAYED_GCODE ID=bedfanloop DURATION=1
            {% else %}
                BEDFANSOFF
                UPDATE_DELAYED_GCODE ID=bedfanloop DURATION=0 #    Cancel bed fan loop if it's running
            {% endif %}
        {% endif %}
     
    ********
    ********  II then modified my PRINT_START macro to include the chamber heater stuff as seen below:
    ********
     
    [gcode_macro PRINT_START]
    #   Use PRINT_START for the slicer starting script - PLEASE CUSTOMISE THE SCRIPT
    gcode:
        EXCLUDE_OBJECT_DEFINE
        BED_MESH_PROFILE load=default
        # Load variables
        {% set bed_temp = params.BED|default(60)|int %}
        {% set extruder_temp = params.EXTRUDER|default(230)|int %}
        {% set CHAMBER_TEMP = params.CHAMBER|default(20)|float %}    
        M104 S150 #start nozzle heating, keep below oozing temp
        M117 Extruder Heating...
        M140 S{bed_temp} #set bed temp to "bed_temp" and move on
        M117 Bed Heating....
        M190 S{bed_temp} #allow bed to get up to temperature
        M117 Heating Chamber...
        M191 S{CHAMBER_TEMP}

        G90 #Use absolute coordinates
        M117 Homing...
        G28
        M117 Adjusting Z Tilt...
        Z_TILT_ADJUST
        G28
        M117 Calibrating Bed Mesh...
        BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
        M117 Waiting for Extruder to Reach Printing Temperature...
        M109 S{extruder_temp}
        G92 E0 #Reset exruder
        M117 Purging Filament...
        ADAPTIVE_PURGE
        M117
     
    ********
    ********  I use CURA and this is my Start Gcode as defined within Cura:
    ********
     
     
    ;Nozzle diameter = {machine_nozzle_size}
    ;Filament type = {material_type}
    ;Filament name = {material_name}
     
    M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration
    M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate
    M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate
     
    M117
    PRINT_START EXTRUDER={material_print_temperature_layer_0} BED={material_bed_temperature_layer_0} CHAMBER={build_volume_temperature}
     
     
     
     
     
     

    6 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  2. MKS TS35 Screen Front Panel

    A front mount for MKS TS35 screen for the Voron Trident machine. It was designed as drop in replacement of Mini 12864 holder and has only one single printed part.
    The MKS TS35 is larger than the Mini 12864 one, so the panel is 4mm taller and slightly sloped. This should not be a problem neither for bottom panel sheet nor for doors.
    There are two versions:
    a 117 mm width which is default Voron Trident size a 122 mm width which help me to reduce gaps between front panel components. Please choose whichever option suits you best.
    The part should be printed with Voron recommended settings. Before installing the display, please remove two small supports near the bottom clip and check the size of the window cut (the display has a fairly tight fit). The display is secured with two M3 bolts/nut of suitable length (e.g. M3x8).
     

    0 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  3. Chamber Heater

    I was having trouble getting my enclosure temperatures above 45C to achieve my optimum print settings. This is the solution I came up with to solve my enclosure temperature issues. I'm running a Fystec Spider v1.1, so your printer config would likely differ. I'm also using a Hartk v4.0 PCB that has an integrated chamber thermistor. I've included my settings for this as well, but you may need to change this up if you use a different thermistor for enclosure temperature readings.

    I hope this is helpful for someone. I couldn't find a lot of solutions out on the net that could get me up and going with a setup like this, so it was a lot of trial and error to get to this point. Let me know if you have any comments or suggestions that can help me make this thing better!

    How I set things up:
    I removed the fan from the PTC heater and inserted a 100K NTC thermistor into one of the bordering fins on the heater core. I then filled the remaining gap in the fin with thermal grease and reattached the fan.  I added a thermal fuse to make sure the power would get cut if the temperatures get out of hand from a bad config or faulty piece of hardware. First I drilled a 1/8" hole next to the center ground pin, rivetted the fuse to the heater's core, and applied thermal grease between the fuse body and the heater core. I then moved the ground wire to run from the fuse rather than the tab. Once I wired this up, I ran the temperatures up past the fuse limits to verify things fail safely as expected. I then replaced the fuse after test failed as expected. I extended all of the wiring with solder connections to make sure it would be long enough reach each wire's intended destination, and capped each connection with heat shrink. I mounted the PTC heater to the printed PTC heater mount and ran the wires to the wiring compartment. I installed the Omron relay, and ran a 24v output from my controller to the relay's 5-24v input. I then routed 110v AC to the other end of the relay on the hot lead. I finished up the wiring by hooking up the 12v line for the heater fan and the heater thermistor to the controller board. (Note: my chamber thermistor was already installed on my toolhead's PCB) I updated my printer.cfg and ran a bunch of tests on the heater to make sure it was functioning properly. BOM:
        Electronics:
            - PTC Heater w/ Fan x1  - Item on Amazon
            - NTC 100k thermistor - Item on Amazon        
            - 120C Thermal Fuse - Item on Amazon
            - Omron 5-24v Relay - Item on West3D
        Printed Parts:
            - Printed PTC Heater Mount x1
        Miscellaneous:        
            - M3x8mm SHCS x2
            - M3 T-nut x2
            - 18awg stranded wire ~2 meters 
            - 22awg stranded wire ~2 meters
            - 1/8" Rivet x1
            - Appropriate connectors for you controller board
        
    Changes to printer.cfg:
    ###################### ### Chamber Heater ### ###################### [heater_generic chamber_heater] heater_pin: PC8 sensor_type: Generic 3950 sensor_pin: PC2 control: watermark max_power: .5 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 110 [verify_heater chamber_heater] max_error: 120 check_gain_time: 120 hysteresis: 5 heating_gain: 2 ########################## ### Chamber Heater Fan ### ########################## [heater_fan chamber_heater_fan] pin: PB6 max_power: 1.0 heater: chamber_heater heater_temp: 40.0 # fan will turn off below this level ############################# ### Enclosure Temperature ### ############################# [thermistor chamber_thermistor] temperature1: 25 resistance1: 10000 beta: 3950 [temperature_sensor enclosure_temp] sensor_type: chamber_thermistor sensor_pin: PC1 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 80
    Macro:
    You can run this and immediately start your print. The print wont actually start until the specified chamber temperatures are reached.
    [gcode_macro CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT] gcode:   {% if params.MIN_TEMPERATURE and params.MAX_TEMPERATURE and params.MIN_TEMPERATURE|float > params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float %}     {action_raise_error("Chamber Temp Wait: MIN_TEMPERATURE must be less than or equal to MAX_TEMPERATURE                          Use:                           - CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT MIN_TEMPERATURE=[0..80]                          - CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT MAX_TEMPERATURE=[0..80]                          - CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT MIN_TEMPERATURE=[0..80] MAX_TEMPERATURE=[0..80]")}   {% elif params.MIN_TEMPERATURE and params.MIN_TEMPERATURE|float > -1 and params.MIN_TEMPERATURE|float < 81 %}     {% if params.MAX_TEMPERATURE and params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float > -1 and params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float < 81 %}       TEMPERATURE_WAIT SENSOR="temperature_sensor enclosure_temp" MINIMUM={params.MIN_TEMPERATURE|float} MAXIMUM={params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float}     {% else %}       TEMPERATURE_WAIT SENSOR="temperature_sensor enclosure_temp" MINIMUM={params.MIN_TEMPERATURE|float}     {% endif %}   {% elif params.MAX_TEMPERATURE and params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float > -1 and params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float < 81 %}       TEMPERATURE_WAIT SENSOR="temperature_sensor enclosure_temp" MAXIMUM={params.MAX_TEMPERATURE|float}   {% else %}     {action_raise_error("Chamber Temp Wait: invalid usage                          Use:                           - CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT MIN_TEMPERATURE=[0..80]                          - CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT MAX_TEMPERATURE=[0..80]                          - CHAMBER_TEMP_WAIT MIN_TEMPERATURE=[0..80] MAX_TEMPERATURE=[0..80]")}   {% endif %}
    Updates:
    - I added a photo of how this is wired up in the wiring compartment. The boxes with the text in the photo represent the components of the heater that are in the chamber of the printer.
    - I have included the macro to wait for chamber to reach temps before starting a print.
    - I have attached the heater mount's fusion 360 file for others to be able to easily make edits to the chamber heater mount
    Chamber Heater Mount v2.f3d

    521 downloads

       (1 review)

    79 comments

    Updated

  4. Mini Stealth DAB - Beta Release

    This x-carriage is designed as a nozzle probing option for mounting a Mini Stealth in a Voron Trident or V2.4. It uses a simple linear compliant mechanism to allow minimal Z travel while being quite rigid in the other five degrees of movement. Completely assembled including Z and X endstops it weighs in at 18g. It should require the same Print_Start preparations as the Voron TAP to ensure a clean nozzle and accurate probing.
    On my Vorpal 180 printer I got sub 0.002mm probe_accuracy results while testing but this design does require a rigid gantry and print bed. While probing with a scale on top of the bed, it was reading up to 800g of force but this is not a very reliable measurement. The Vorpal printer has a PCB style bed and no 2020 profile for the gantry. I am working to rebuild the toolhead on my Trident to test the DAB but that uses a Prusa PCB bed as well.
    There are breakable supports and bed adhesion aids (shown in green in the last picture) built into the .stl file. After printing, the flexure feature will need to be pried slightly to separate the center section from the bridge that the toolhead mounts to and allow movement. This is easier to do while the part is still warm from printing and a thin spudger can be useful.
    I have added two sample flexures to demonstrate how the length of the web pieces effect the stiffness of the mechanism.
    Parts Required:
        Mini_Stealth_DAB_ver0.5
        DAB_Z_Stop_Boss(X_Stop)
        2 - M3 x 4 grub screws (not pointed)
        4 - M2 x 10 self tapping screws (5 if X endstop)
        1 - microswitch with lever removed
        2 - M3 square nuts
        4 - M3 x 12 BHCS
    Assembly:
    After ensuring that the flexure moves freely, install one of the grub screws in the top and screw it in just enough to remove the looseness in the flexure. This provides a known lower limit of travel. Install the Z_Stop_Boss with two M2 x 10 screws from the front. Then install the Z micro-switch with the red trigger on the left (viewed from the back). The wires can be fed to the front through the lower gap in the flexure. Install the other M3 grub screw on the bottom of the DAB_Z_Boss. Screw it in until you hear the micro-switch trigger and then turn it back out until the trigger releases. This makes the trigger travel distance less than 0.5mm. Mount the x-carriage to the MGN12C carriage with four M3x12 BHCS. There is room to pull the four belt ends through and trim them at the front face of the DAB. For now, this design will only fit the Mini Sherpa and the LGX Lite versions of the Mini Stealth. The other extruders have stepper motors that sit too low and collide with the top of the flexure frame.
    Please leave comments, questions and feedback.
     

    72 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    3 comments

    Updated

  5. Voron BTT Pi v1.2 Din Rail Mount

    This is a design based off the Voron Pi mount for the BTT Pi v1.2 to use on Voron printers where you want to use the BTT Pi instead of the regular Pi boards.

    23 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  6. Plug panel generic rectangular

    Main plug panel skirt for rectangular switch from Fysetc

    3 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  7. Sherpa Micro Vz RIDGA + CW2 Module

    This remix of the Sherpa Micro extruder uses the RIDGA gears from a Vz Hextrudort. Other than using 'twirl' gears, they are also 5mm shorter than the standard Bondtech gears which solves the collision that a stock Sherpa has with the 5015 blower in a Stealthburner.

    I mirrored the extruder about the Y axis to put the tensioning screw on the left side and added a filament release lever since the idler_arm is not accessible when installed in a Steathburner. This requires a modified idler_arm for ridgidity. I have also added a shield over the 50t gear to protect the toolhead wiring.
    This design fits the official Stealthburner_main_body as well as the official cable_door. The cable chain mounts were adjusted to clear the stepper motor but otherwise remain stock. Below is a list of the hardware that differs from a standard Stealthburner CW2 install.
         1 - Mellow CNC Vz HextrudORT drive gears Set 7
         2 - M3x25 screws below extruder (from the front)
         1 - M2x10 self tapping screw at the top (from behind)
         2 - M3x12 screws to secure extruder
         1 - M3x10 screw to attach filament release lever
    The Sherpa Micro Vz RIDGA will need some basic components from a BMG Dual Drive kit.
         2 - MR85 bearings
         1 - Thumbscrew with tensioning spring and washer
         2 - 3mm steel pins for idler_arm pivot and idler gear
    The included .blend file shows the complete CW2 assembly with hardware. You can select any part and press [H] to hide it. Pressing [Alt] + [H] shows everything again. Pressing [F2] while a part is selected brings up the Rename dialog so you can see the name of each component i.e. "M3x25_BHCS".
    I have included .stl files for building a standard Sherpa Micro, with standard BMG gears, but adding the filament_release_lever. The files added here are mirrored to put the tension screw on the left but can each be mirrored back in the slicer to match the official orientation. Below is a list of the parts required:
         1 - Sherpa_Micro_VzRIDGA_Back_v1.1.stl
         1 - Sherpa_Micro_Core_mirrored.stl  (official geometry mirrored)
         1 - Sherpa_Micro_VzRIDGA_Front.stl  (official geometry mirrored)
         1 - Sherpa_Micro_Idler_Arm_FR-Lever_mirrored.stl
         1 - Sherpa_Micro_VzRIDGA_Filament_Release_Lever.stl
    The extruder parts are licensed under the Annex Engineering License and the Clockwork 2 parts are licensed under the GPL v3 License.

    140 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    3 comments

    Updated

  8. CATPAW Voron ZERO toolhead Orbiter 2.0 - CAN - Neopixel - Probe - Filament Sensor - 2x4010 - 1x3010

    CatPaw is the ideal toolhead for Voron Zero series with Orbiter 2.0 Extruder. I developed this toolhead as I was unhappy with the existing options. The standard Voron Zero 0.2 toolhead does not provide as much cooling as I prefer, and certainly less than the StealthBurner toolhead. My design goals were also minimum loss of print volume and maximum compatibility with toolheads and options for probe and filament sensor.
    CATPAW:
    Uses Voron Zero 0.2 toolhead cartridges, so should work with all toolheads for voron Zero 0.2 (fan saver recommended) 2x 4010 Blowers, with StealthBurner duct layout for near arctic level part cooling (2x 4010 provides more air than StealthBurner toolhead) Almost no loss in print volume. X axis should be full width, loss off a millimeter or so on X if you print with your door closed. (Magnets on my door are strong enough, so the door closes again if the toolhead bumps into it, giving me the full 120x120 mm even when printing ABS Option to add the slideswipe Probe. I shortened the probe, but all other parts can be used from https://github.com/SaltyPaws/Voron_0.1and0.2mods/SlideSwipe or original repo (https://github.com/chestwood96/SlideSwipe) Option to add under extruder filament Sensor Carriages are provided for MGN7 and MGN9 X-axis rails. It is recommended to print the provided X carriage for the appropriate rail. In order to minimize toolhead height, I lowered the screw hole for the rear mounting screw. The CATPAW toolhead will work with the stock Voron Zero 0.2 Carriage, but the screw securing the X-carriage from the rear will not fit. https://github.com/SaltyPaws/CATPAW_toolhead/raw/main/images/PXL_20240101_224037977.jpg?raw=true
    BOM
    2x SHCS (preferred) or BHSC M3x25 bolt 3x M3 nut 2x NeoPixel 1x 3010 hotend fan 2x 4010 Blower 6x3mm magnets for probe (optional) 6mm steel ball for filament sensor (optional) Omron D2F-L micro-switch with lever for filament sensor (optional) 2x M2x12 or self-tapping screw to secure micro-switch (optional) Installation Instructions
    Assembly should be done in the following order: Probe
    Solder wires to 6x3mm magnets. In order to prevent loss of magnetism, let the magnets cool against another 6x3 magnet. Press the magnets into the slots by pushing the toolhead down on a hard object. Use a large flat soldering tip at around 230C to push the magnets deeper into the slots, you want the magnets to stick out ~0.5 to 1 mm. Again, let the magnets cool down attached to other magnets to prevent loss of magnetism. Ensure wire to magnet path has very low resistance (less than 4 ohm). route wires out trough little side window. Seal hole with red gasket maker. NeoPixels
    Create a chain of 2 neopixels. You do not have a lot of space to hide excess cable, so make the wires between the neopixels as short as possible, while still allowing them to slide into the slots. Test the neopixels! It will be more rework to remove the hotend fan and part cooling fans later. Fans
    First install 3010 part cooling fan. Be very careful to only press the edges of the fan, the fan will break when pushing the center of the fan (ask me how I know...) Then proceed with installing the blower fans. Use a knife to cut the upper right hand side of the blower fan (looking back to front). This is required for routing the majority of the wires. I used superglue to keep the fan together as you will remove a fan closing latch. I accidentally cut int the fanbox, and sealed up the hole with red gasket maker. For details - see pictures below: https://github.com/SaltyPaws/CATPAW_toolhead/raw/main/images/PXL_20231225_175242278.jpg?raw=true
    https://github.com/SaltyPaws/CATPAW_toolhead/raw/main/images/PXL_20231225_175256608.jpg?raw=true
    https://github.com/SaltyPaws/CATPAW_toolhead/raw/main/images/PXL_20231225_175325632.jpg?raw=true
    Toolhead Cardridge
    Ensure the heater wires are installed pointing towards the right hand fan that has space for wire routing. Thermistor, probe and fan wires will fit on the other side (left hand side fan). Hold off on installing the zip-ties, these are best installed after the toolhead is installed on the carriage. Filament Sensor
    Solder wires to filament sensor (2 outer most legs). You may want to shorten the legs somewhat for an easier fit. Trim lever, so that lever does not extend past micro-switch body Install micro-switch and ball Test sensor Install Toolhead
    Carefully mount toolhead, ensuring that wires are not pinched, and belt is not rubbing on gantry. The bulk of the wires will go in the gap carved out on the right hand side fan, the other side will have sufficient space for probe and fan wires.   Min Probe
    See installation instructions in orignal repo: https://github.com/chestwood96/SlideSwipe  

    112 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  9. PC4-M10 Push to Connect for Orbiter Sensor

    I created this file, because the original Orbiter Sensor light guide does not hold the PTFE in place sufficiently to my taste.
    PC4-M10 connector for Orbiter Sensor.
    Print upside down, no suports needed. I used transparent ABS, but light colored ABS will also work. Use M10x1.25 tap to clean up threads Plug in and enjoy!  

    4 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    1 comment

    Updated

  10. Voron 0.1 / 0.2 - Light Bar Clip (LDO Frame 1515)

    I remixed a Voron 2.4 Version of LED bar clips I found on Voron Github.
    https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/eddie/LED_Bar_Clip
     
    Modded it for my Voron V0.2 with smaller clips for the 1515 extrusion, and added a corner clip, and also a NoLed Clip, where the cables can be routed inside.
    It's a bit difficult to manage tha cable from the top to the electronics bay you can see in the picture how i managed it.

    https://www.printables.com/de/model/694693-voron-01-02-light-bar-clip-ldo-frame-1515

    12 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  11. Alternativ DragonBurner Switchwire mount

    This is a alternativ DragonBurner mount for Switchwire. This version uses heatset inserts instead of hexnuts.

    15 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  12. A-Drive Spacer with Chainanchor

    I couldn't find an elegant way to attach the Z-Chain with a aluminium AB drive upgrade, so i remixed a original spacer...
    I have the Alu AB Drive Set from Funssor

    27 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  13. XY Joint Cable Bridge for CF/CNC

    This Cable Bridge has been redesigned to fit a carbon or CNC aluminum XY joint where the screws are not flush with the top surface of the XY joint. This bridge also provides a little more distance from the cable chain.

    29 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  14. EBB36 CAN cable strain relief gland

    I designed this part to be printed in TPU.  You could potentially use a rigid material if you didn't have a termination on your CAN cable and could thread it first.  There are holes for the zip tie slots, but I didn't find them necessary to use.  Hope it helps someone else!

    22 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  15. Probe Mount with ADXL for PCB Klicky

    Probe Mount with ADXL for PCB Klicky

    Use the free space above the PCB Klicky Probe for an ADXL!

    This mount is a new variant of: https://github.com/tanaes/whopping_Voron_mods/tree/main/pcb_klicky
    ADXL345: https://amzn.eu/d/dJvU8Zh
    ADXL345 is attached with 2 M2.5 screws.
    I didn't solder the JST-XH 3 pin header to the PCB Klicky board, but soldered the cables directly to the board. There is not enough space for the header.
     
    happy printing!
     

    15 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    1 comment

    Submitted

  16. Voron v0.2 quad cam lock mod

    Voron v0.2 upper drive frames with cam locks instead of hinges
    Credit
    Voron team
    Print settings
    Print according to official Voron print settings.
    Bom
    No extra hardware needed
    Description
    This mod replaces the tophat hinges on the AB drive frames with cam locks (like the front idlers). It is intended to be combined with full height panels.

    8 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  17. Voron 2.4 z belt cover mod with cable routing

    This mod is a combiniation of the official Voron 2.4 and Voron 2.2 z belt covers. It also incorporates the hidden cable routing from the mod by Akio.
    * There are two versions of the covers. One with and one without the Voron logo.
    * The covers are 5 mm tall so you need a gap of at least 5 mm between the z-rails and the extrusions for this cover to fit.
    * Please take care when routing the cables in the electronics bay to make sure they do not rub against the belts.
    Freecad and step files are in the github repo.
     

    315 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  18. Tweaked Stealthburner Clockwork (CW2) for improved TPU Printing

    Dear All,
    This is a very simple modification to the Main Body of the Stealthburner Clockwork 2, to improve performance when printing TPU. 
    I found that when printing TPU, particularly the softer Shore hardnesses, the extruder would frequently skip, stutter and misbehave, causing poor quality prints.  After studying the CAD files, I reasoned that as the direct drive outputs the filament into a bore in the Main Body, before the PTFE tube, the filament might be compressing at this point, and jamming up in the higher friction printed plastic.
    To remove this issue, I continued the 4.2mm bore for the PTFE tube all the way up into the direct drive chamber.  This allows the PTFE tube to be extended, and carefully cut (with a scalpel, or craft knife), to exactly match the direct drive gear.  With this change, the filament outputs from the direct drive gear directly into the PTFE tube, with no opportunity to touch the higher friction printed plastic, and no space to jam up in.
    I have found that this simple modification dramatically improves performance with printing TPU on my printer.  Hopefully it'll do the same for you.
    Note that getting the length of the PTFE tube exactly right with this arrangement is a little bit tricky.  Cut the tube too short, and you'll be left with a gap that the TPU can compress into (giving you the same problem), but too long will cause it to foul/drag on the direct drive gear.  Easiest thing to do is to sort this out first, before you build the rest of the Clockwork.
    Fit a length of PTFE tube to the Toolhead & holder of your choice, and cut it so that ~25mm is extending from the top.  Slot this into the CW Main Body, and the tube should end approximately half way across the direct drive gear chamber.  You can then use the sharp scalpel/craft knife to follow the contour of the chamber, as shown in the photograph attached.
    Hope this is helpful!
    Best regards,
     

    85 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    1 comment

    Submitted

  19. Quick Release Latch

    I have made modifications to use M3 DIN7380 screws. Much less random than if you use filament as pins.

    227 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    12 comments

    Updated

  20. I have remixed this locks so there is a 5.5 mm version

    I really liked these panel locks, they look very pretty and have less moving parts than panel clips.
    My Formbot kit came with unusual acrylic panel thickness of 2.5, so adding a sealing foam of 3mm, my total depth should be 5.5. I've also increased the horizontal tolerance between knobs and main body.
    I've also uploaded the .step and .f3d files, so you can modify those for your thickness through changing parameters.
     

    279 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  21. Cleaning Brush Holder

    For Trident, metal spike brush holder from those sold on Aliexpress (Fysetc sells this kind of brush). Attaches to Trident's bottom bed rail.
     
     

    50 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  22. Nozzle_Side_Skirt_250.step

    250mm version with room for 2 spare nozzles and 2 cleaning bits, plus the 7mm 1/4" socket which I use to remove nozzles.

    This is a remix of:
    https://www.printables.com/model/451864-voron-hotend-skirt-nozzle-caseholder-door-350
    Which is a remix of:
    https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/Daten/Voron_2.4_Revo_Nozzle_Holder
    And
    A version with 3 nozzles is possible, but very frustrating to use unless you have tiny fingers.

    3 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  23. Din Mounts - Low Profile - Electronics Voron

    I ran into these on Printables, I hope its ok to post them here and help out others.
    Lower profile, more space for airflow or/and fans.
    Seem very solid, will be default in my builds from now on!
    Thanks to the original poster - Frogree - https://www.printables.com/@Frogree_371528

    139 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    1 comment

    Submitted

  24. Voron 2.4 Roomba 800/900 HEPA Filter Box

    A proper filter box for using Roomba 800/900 series HEPA filter in your Voron 2.4 Exhaust.
    Unlike the other HEPA box posted here, this one fits the original exhaust housing and should use less material.
    Print with Filter insert side on bed with support on build plate only.
    To install it in the exhaust box, insert it at 90C angle and rotate it as you insert (last pic). The last push to lock it in place might require you to push from inside the printer. You might have to temporarely remove the fan for installation!
     

    77 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  25. Voron2.4 GE5C Z Joint Remix

    This is a remix of Hartk1213's Voron2.4 GE5C Z Joint.  
    https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/hartk1213/Voron2.4_GE5C
    Update 5/27/2023: Thanks to the comments and concerns regarding this from reddit, especially the strength of the split joint, I redesigned this so it should be stronger (certainly feels stronger).  To strengthen the split part, I moved the split up towards the top (instead of along the center of the bearing.  I suggest using some superglue and it should be very strong (I had to cut the bearing out of one).
    Update 6/16/2023: After thinking about this a bit, I am not sure if this is an ideal solution since the joints need some x-y play in order to operate (think of it like a door swinging through it's arc, if you held the door at the door handle you would be pulled as it opened).  
    Update 8/11/2023:  My first idea to make a remix was not very good, so I'm looking to see if I can make a Z joint that won't use the GE5C bearings at all.  That idea may or may not ever see the light of day, so if you like the idea of the GE5C mod, then this model is an option.
     
    The original design from Hartk1213 is great, and this is just a different take on it.  The primary difference is that the bearing is moved up (higher than the MGN9 carriage), and back just a fraction of a mm (which would otherwise interfere with the carriage).  The reason for moving it up and back was to keep it in alignment with the lower belt clip from Voron CAD file.  With this design, I was also hoping to hold the bearing in place in all directions, and it seems to be very well held in the parts I printed (there is no play).  But to allow for a printable part, I had to split the joint.  The split is designed with a lot of surface area where glue can be applied, to better hold it together.  
    This design is an almost ground up remix, so some dimensions are changed from the original model.  I used the STEP file from the Voron Github to assist with setting up the alignment of the parts.  
    There are two versions provided:
    The basic version has no locking tabs and can be assembled using glue.  This version is named “Voron_GE5C Z joint_REMIX-4H.stl”. The other version is designed with locking clips (this is the version I used).  It is named “Voron_GE5C Z joint_REMIX-4H-CLIPS.stl”, and is also designed to be glued.  I feel this version will be a bit stronger, since it has a mechanical connection as well.  The clip version will need a bit of persuasion to snap together (I just gave it a good couple of hits on the desktop, but closing it in a vice may also work).  If you don't have luck snapping it together, try the basic version.  BOM (for each z-joint)
    (1) M5x25mm BHCS (though other lengths will work with different spacers) (4) M3x16 SHCS to mount the joint to the Z-carriages (1) GE5C bearing (see note below about the cheap ones) (2-3) M5 1mm spacers (or washers if they are similar in size) Optionally you can use some M5 aluminum spacers instead of the washers, and different length M5 screws. In the parts pictured, I used M5x25mm screws, and some M5x8x5mm spacers (though I plan to swap them for M5x8x3mm spacers).  Note that the number of spacers and length of screws will depend on the stack height of your lower belt clips + the thickness of the AB joints and the tensioners.  So YMMV, and I recommend measuring your parts before deciding on a proper length of M5 screw, and how many spacers or washers will work in your particular application.  
    I recommend printing these in ABS with 100% infill and supports touching the build plate.  You may be able to get away with no supports if you have your settings tuned and your printer can print bridges without issues.  Additionally, (in Cura) I used Slicing Tolerance “Exclusive” and set the Wall Ordering to “Outside to Inside", which helps to produce parts which are closer to the designed size.  It is a good idea to run a flow calibration and horizontal expansion calibration prior to printing these, which will also help if you find the parts do not fit the bearing well.  The parts should be oriented as shown.  After printing, poke out the single layer of bridge material in the mounting holes to clear them for the M3 screws.
    The parts are not oriented for printing.
    As pictured, I am using M5x25 BHCS, as well as a 5mm M5 spacer (which I plan to swap for a 3mm M5 spacer).  I also ordered some IGUS GE5C bearings since I found that more than half the bearings in the pack of no-spec GE5C bearings I got from Ali, have very noticeable play.  I found 4 that were OK enough to install, but they will be replaced with the IGUS bearings at some point (the IGUS bearings have zero noticeable play).  You can also find ABEC-7 rated GE5C bearings a bit cheaper on West3d.com (but for the price difference I'd just get the IGUS bearings).  I'm still in the process of building my Voron 2.4 R2, which is slow going since I keep finding things to make or remix for it (that is not a complaint :D).  So I have not fully tested this, but I did re-align the gantry after installing these and found no issues with interference.
    If you like this, please post a make over on Printables, which will get me a bit closer to my first spool of Prusament.  Please also provide feedback which may help to improve the design if I have time to revisit it in the future. There is currently no hall effect (magnet) version of this model.
    The STEP file is included for easy remixing.
    You can see what other projects I have going on by checking out my blog here.  I'm also documenting my Voron 2.4 R2 build here (but it's been a slow going process).
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    214 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    2 comments

    Updated

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