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Printable Voron User Mods

Voron User Mods, or "UserMods", are a collection of community created and Team FDM curated modification for Voron Printers. All of these mods are available on the VoronUsers Github repo and unless otherwise specified follow the Voron communities GPL3.0 Licensing. Use any Mods at your own risk, if you make modification please share them on the VoronUsers repo.

Mod Authors: Have a Voron mod? Upload it at TeamFDM.com and let us know you're the author. We will ensure you can update and curate your files for more feedback! Please include tags for what Voron, or extruder your mod is compatible with. 

528 files

  1. Stealthburner for Mosquito Magnum with Phaetus UHF Adapter

    This is a modified Stealthburner to fit a Mosquito Magnum hotend with a Phaetus UHF Adapter/nozzle. Fan duct to Nozzle Clearance is 1mm. Included are files for 2 mounting options. and the front cover that will fit. The usual side by side mounting, and the probably not very used at all diagonal mounting. Requires 2 heatset inserts. Then you install the screw from the bottom. Let me know if it works for you, or if it needs adjusting.

    0 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  2. Exhaust Fan Cover

    I didn't like the open design of the fan, it looked even more stupid with the beige Noctua fan. So I created a cover for it, maybe you like it too and you want to dress up the fan. I uploaded a 20mm variant for the standard fans and a 25mm variant for Noctua

    13 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  3. Holder for gantry camera

    Since the camera perspective at the front above offers a good overview but you cannot see what is happening at the nozzle, I looked for a solution for a second camera. Since the Voron is designed to be quite space-saving, it wasn't easy to find a free corner. I then found a camera circuit board with a USB connection on Amazon that can also be extended.
    Here's a link to the camera, hope it's OK here: Link
    Make sure that longer cables are shielded, otherwise you will have connection problems.
    I used self-tapping screws to screw it on

    6 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  4. Voron Tap R1

    Tap is a drop in replacement for the X carriage which includes a nozzle probe mechanism. For Voron Trident and V2 printers
     
    Bill of Materials
    Category Qty Description Notes Hardware 1 50 mm MGN9 Rail see cutting guide, Ends deburred, overall length +/- 1 mm Hardware 1 MGN-9H Carriage Medium preload (Z1) is preferred, but regular preload will work. Carriage must be removable from rail. Hardware 2 6 mm x 3 mm magnet 6 mm diameter, 3 mm tall cylinders. N52 strength preferred, N35 or higher strength required. Hardware 11 M3 Heatset Insert Standard Voron spec 4.7 mm diameter inserts Hardware 1 H3 Hex Nut ISO 4032 Hardware 6 M3 Washer DIN 125, 7mm outer diameter, 0.5 mm thickness Hardware 2 M3 x 20 SHCS Socket head cap screw Hardware 2 M3 x 16 SHCS Socket head cap screw Hardware 1 M3 x 12 SHCS Socket head cap screw Hardware 3 M3 x 8 SHCS Socket head cap screw Hardware 1 M3 x 6 SHCS Socket head cap screw Hardware 2 M3 x 6 FHCS Flat head cap screw. MUST BE MAGNETIC. No stainless, may be black oxide or zinc coated. Hardware 2 M3 x 10 BHCS Button Head Cap Screw Hardware 10 M3 x 6 BHCS Button Head Cap Screw Sensor Options: Select either “Wired Sensor” or “PCB Sensor"
    Wired
    Category Qty Description Notes Links Electronics 1 220 Ohm resistor ¼ Watt, +/- 10% tolerance resistor   Electronics 1 OPB Wired Sensor Optek sensor, wired. OPB991         OPB991P51Z         OPB991L51Z         OPB991T51Z         OPB991T11Z https://www.digikey.com/short/rrjtmvwm       OPB991L11 https://www.digikey.com/short/cnnhjr5n PCB Sensor
    Category Qty Description Notes Links Electronics 1 OptoTap v2 PCB     Electronics 1 OPB PCB Sensor Optek sensor: OPB666N or OPB971N51         OPB666N https://www.digikey.com/short/f2mzw5rm       OPB971N51 https://www.digikey.com/short/m9rz73fp  
     

    292 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  5. Manta M8p Bracket

    Bigtreetech Manta M8P Din Mounting Brackets
    Designed to mount the Bigtreetech Manta M8P Controller Board.
    Based on the Voron Octopus Mounting Brackets
    Printing
    Standard Voron part printing guidelines to follow: 0.4 nozzle, 0.2 layer height, etc.
    Assembly
    BOM: Size Qty M3x8 4 M2 Self-tapping Screw 2 PCB Din Clip 2

    4 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  6. TophatExtractor

    Voron V0.1 Tophat Extractor
    Tophat Exhaust Fan with activated carbon and HEPA filters.

    BOM
    (the BOM is for upgrading from an existing Tophat)
    1 pc. 60x60x25 Fan (preferably without

    19 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  7. Trident Dual Power Switch

    Trident dual power switch

    This is a simple mod to allow mounting two switches along side the filtered inlet, rather than one.
    The intention is to wire this so that the Raspberry Pi remains powered, even when the rest of the system is off
    Hardware
    This mod only works with the filtered inlet from the sourcing guide, not any of the all-in-one options.
    It should work with any switch that works in the stock skirt, you just need 2 of them now.

    3 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  8. Stealthburner Rapido Uhf

    Stealthburner Rapido UHF
    A mod that stretches the Stealthburner Front and Rapido Toolhead Front for use with a Rapido UHF configuration. It moves the lighting and cooling to Stealthburner stock locations relative to new nozzle location. Designed from SB RC1 using this version.
    No additional parts required. Assembly is as per Voron Stealthburner manual. You may need to increase the length of one of the LED wire legs.

    24 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  9. V2.4r2 Z Drive Motor Tensioner Mod Rear Skirts

    V2.4 Rear Skirt Mod for Z-Drive Motor Tensioner Mod
    Credit for the Mod goes to Edward Yeeks for the orginal design and Skohls for updating the mod for the R2 changes. https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/orphaned_mods/printer_mods/edwardyeeks/V2.4_z_drive_motor_tensioner_mod
    This mod enables the you to utilize the rear skirts, power and keystone, in your V2.4R2 while still being able to use the Motor Tensioner Mod. NOTE: heat set insert holes are in a new location so you will have to reposition your bottom panel clips and hinges.
    Printing
    Default voron settings No supports needed BOM
    Same hardware for mounting skirts for Voron V2.4r2.



    23 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  10. V0 Long Thumb Nut

    Longer Thumb Nuts for Voron V0
    After installing a Kirigami mount for my V0 bed, I found that the stock thumb nuts were too short, which made them very hard to adjust. I have also never been particularly fond of the shape of them and found them uncomfortable to adjust.

    Usage
    Print it, the standard Voron settings worked fine for me. Install 3mm heat set inserts to the bottom of the thumb nut (so that the tension will pull the heat set insert into the part, not out of it) Replace your stock thumb nuts Redo your bed leveling

    2 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  11. Mount For Umbilical

    Guide for an umbilical with top feed, no cable gland required
    I added a toolhead board to my Galileo extruder, and the reduced wire-count suggests to move to an umbilical instead of an energy chain. It has been thoroughly tested with my Galileo and should work with Clockwork 1/2 or any extruder that offers the common anchor point for a 2- or 3-hole drag chain.
    This mount guides a sleeved wire bundle. My own umbilical enters the chamber at the top, through the exhaust opening, and is supported by a gallows. What I needed and designed, is the matching steady mount on the extruder end.
    This has no hardware requirements. Use your old fasteners to attach the guide to the anchor, mine are M3x8.
    I put the wires into a standard polyethylene sleeve to protect them. For the length that runs down to the CAN-board, I used a heat-shrink, but that's general caution, not required for the mount.
    The key gets pushed in from the top to steady the umbilical in the guide. One end of the key is a bit thinner to allow easy insertion. If the cable is still too loose with the key, you can zip-tie it to the key, I added slots for that.
    Caution:
    When you lock the umbilical with the key, make sure the length towards the CAN-board has a bit of slack. You don't want hard kinks in the cable!
    Total perspective:
    Front view:
    Rear view:
    Side view:

    18 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  12. 1515 Led Mount

    Snap in 1515 LED mount for WS2812B led strips.
    BOM:
    WS2812BECO Black PCB - 5m 60 IP30 Some cables A soldering iron and some solder JST-XH Crimps Notes about the WS2812: 30 leds per meter fits, but you will only have a led in every second diffuser. 60leds per meter is the perfect fit. Print guide:
    Print 9 left and 9 right.
    Preparation:
    I use 9 led's on each side. Solder the cables. Now it's a good idea to test and configure the neopixels too, so you don't have to take it out again after you've mounted it, in case something is wrong. Just hang them over the spool holder and make sure nothing can short circuit while testing.
    Mounting:
    Guide the cables through the 1515 extrusion over the mid-panel. Push one diffuser in. (Do this in the front with the led strip as far back as possible) Slide the diffuser back while guiding the led strip through it. One by one. When you get to the last diffuser on either side, you have to partially insert the strip into the diffuser. Then carefully try to bend/align it with the 1515 slot and carefully pop it into place. Having it all the way to the front gives you more leeway to bend without damaging the strip. Do the same on the other side. After you can wire them in parallel and connect them to the BTT SKR Mini E3 V2 neopixel slot. Klipper config for BTT SKR Mini E3 V2:
    [neopixel case_lights] ## Chamber Lighting - In 5V-RGB Position pin: PA8 chain_count: 9 initial_RED: 1 initial_GREEN: 1 initial_BLUE: 1 If this looks familiar contact me so i can credit you. This is based on some other 1515 mount. I just remade the rest. Heavily based on eddie's misumi holders.

    28 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  13. V0.1 Z Cover

    Z Cover for v0.1
    A cover to stop things from dropping down the Z motor and disappearing forever.
    BOM:
    2x M3x6 FHCS (Creative users might get away with sandwitching the deck panel inbetween using M3x8 SHCS/BHCS from the bottom) Print guide:
    Print the 3 measuring tools to figure out what spacing suits your printer. Then print the

    36 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  14. Zodiac BMO Stealthburner Toolhead

    Zodiac BMO Stealthburner Toolhead
    A modified toolhead for use with the Zodiac BMO Hotend and compatible with RC1 of Stealthburner. It was created from the original RC1 Stealthburner Phaetus BMO Toolhead files. If changes after RC1 of Stealthburner make this mod incompatible, I will provide updated files based on the official Stealthburner CAD files. The official Zodiac3D CAD Model of their BMO Hotend was used for reference.
    Images

    Notes
    For optimal fit it is very important that your printer's dimensional accuracy is nearly perfect. Especially Pressure Advance has to be tuned right. Even then it is still a very tight fit, when putting in the hotend. That ensures that it cannot twist or wiggle. One handed nozzle changes should be possible, but are generally not recommended.
    The bowden tube length from top of the toolhead to the heatbreak of the hotend is around 31.2mm. Take that into account when calculating the total bowden length. (E.g. Clockwork2 needs 11mm above the toolhead, so that accumulates to a total bowden length of 42.2mm, when using Clockwork2.)
    Test prints were made with standard ABS, ABS and ASA Carbon.

    4 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  15. SW SB CRTouch

    Voron Switchwire StealthBurner CR Touch Mod
    This repo contains the STL for Voron SW SB CR Touch Mod.
    I used the SB 1.05Beta during development. But it should work on the SB v1 release as it's only X rail carriage.
    The STL is only for MGN12 Carriage for SW No supports are needed during the print No tools are needed to fit the CR Touch, it's a press fit I used Dragon Standard hotend for deciding height of CR touch and it's 2mm above the nozzle when pin is up It should work with other hotends as well (Hotends of same form factor as Dragon) Preview of how CR Touch Fits in the SB X rail carriage:


    Thanks to Voron Developers for building rocket making tools

    31 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  16. Crazy Mozzie Cw2

    Stealthburner Clockwork2 Toolhead for HF Crazy Mozzie
    This is a a toolhead mount for the HF Crazy Mozzie (or other Mosquito clones), compatible with Stealthburner RC1 and Clockwork 2. Design source.

    The airflow pattern is designed and tested for the high-flow version. Here it is shown with the regular version:
    In action:

    26 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  17. Mini Stealth - Orbiter 2.0

    This toolhead scales down the body of the Stealthburner to a size which fits into a V0.1. Fully assembled it weighs about 110 grams less than the original. It is designed around the Orbiter 2.0 extruder and has versions for the Phaetus Dragonfly, Dragon and Rapido HF hotends as well as a version to fit the Revo Voron hotend. It incorporates a status LED as well as two for print visibility.
    22 Nov 2022:   I have added new versions that should fit the Mosquito hotend. I cannot verify the fitment so if there are any issues please leave a comment.
    It uses a pair of 4010 blowers which I found to produce slightly more airflow than a 5015 blower while being notably less noisy and drawing less current. The depth of these fans do limit Y travel by 3mm on a V0.1 while the door is closed and tophat is on. The width of the main body at its base is also a very tight fit at the extremes of X travel.
    The part cooling ducts of the original file act as a simple air dump similar to the mini-Afterburner. The 'alt_ducts' version is based on the Stealthburner ducts and provides a more restrictive but targeted airflow. This seems to give better cooling but I have not done any meaningful testing yet.
    The 'minimal' version does not need the 'motor_bridge' or 'filament_lever' and gives finger access to the latch of the Orbiter 2.0.
    This Orbiter 2.0 m-stlb is a better fit than the Orbiter 1.5 m-stlb in a V2.4 or Trident as the motor no longer interferes with the path of the cable chain. There is a seperate 'strain_relief' stl for use in the V0.1.
    The included Blender file shows the entire assembly complete with screws and should answer most basic questions.
     
    Note on MGN-9 installation:
    The default 2mm x 10 plastic threading screw is too long for mounting the x-axis endstop. An M2 x 8 does the job fine. For mounting to the linear carriage use four M3 x 6 flat-head screws.

     Note: The MGN carriage shown is an MGN-9H, not the shorter MGN-9C used in the V0.1 mod.
     
    Assembly Instructions
    After pressing the status LED diffuser into place, install the right part-cooling fan first by feeding the wires through the small hole at the bottom. Then feed the wires for the status LED and hotend fan through before starting to push the LED carrier into position.

    Carefully push the status LED carrier as far as it will go and then carefully press the fan into position while making sure not to pinch the part-cooling fan wires.

    Press the remaining LEDs into their slots. (I measure out 35mm of wire to connect these LEDs together)

    Here is another view also showing where the hotend fan wires fit.

    Insert the second part-cooling fan and splice the wires together with the first fan.

    Install the hotend with at least two M2.5x6 screws. The heater cartridge should be installed away from the LEDs to avoid overheating them. (Don't forget the PTFE tube)

    Pre-assemble the extruder pieces before installing into the shroud. Use two M3x8 BHCS to install the Orbiter 2.0 extruder. It helps to have both screws in the Orbiter before putting it in place. Start the screw by the latch and then the blind screw should be easier to align.

    Gather all of the wires together with a zip-tie next to the base of the Orbiter latch and then use another zip-tie to secure the wires to the motor-bridge. Leave a little slack in the extruder wires.

    Install the strain_relief or cable_chain_mount with two M3x6/8 screws and the cable_door with a M3x10/12 screw. Close the cable door with a M3x6 screw and screw in the extruder tensioning thumb screw.

    Happy Printing!
     

    4,386 downloads

       (1 review)

    115 comments

    Updated

  18. Mini Stealth - LGX Lite

    This toolhead scales down the body of the Stealthburner to a size which fits into a V0.1. Fully assembled it weighs about 120 grams less than the original. It is designed around the Bondtech LGX Lite extruder and has versions for the Phaetus Dragonfly, Dragon and Rapido HF hotends as well as a version to fit the Revo Voron hotend. It incorporates a status LED as well as two for print visibility.
    22 Nov 2022:   I have added new versions that should fit the Mosquito hotend. I cannot verify the fitment so if there are any issues please leave a comment.
    It uses a pair of 4010 blowers which I found to produce slightly more airflow than a 5015 blower while being notably less noisy and drawing less current. The depth of these fans do limit Y travel by 3mm on a V0.1 while the door is closed and tophat is on. The width of the main body at its base is also a very tight fit at the extremes of X travel. The shroud fits a 3007 hotend fan.
    The part cooling ducts of the original file act as a simple air dump similar to the mini-Afterburner. The 'alt_ducts' version is based on the Stealthburner ducts and provides a more restrictive but targeted airflow. This seems to give better cooling but I have not done any meaningful testing yet.
    This LGX Lite mini-stlb fits well in a V2.4 or Trident as the motor doesn't interfere with the path of the cable chain. There is a seperate 'strain_relief' stl for use in the V0.1.
    I have included a magnet mount and additional shroud .stl files to make this compatible with the ZeroClick mod.
    The included Blender file shows the entire assembly complete with screws and should answer most basic questions.
     
    Note on MGN-9 installation:
    The default 2mm x 10 plastic threading screw is too long for mounting the x-axis endstop. An M2 x 8 does the job fine. For mounting to the linear carriage use four M3 x 6 flat-head screws.

     Note: The MGN carriage shown is an MGN-9H, not the shorter MGN-9C used in the V0.1 mod.
     
    Preparation
    I recommend test fitting the extruder, LGX_lite_adapter_plate, PTFE tube and hotend into the shroud before running any wires to ensure that the PTFE tube length is correct and everything fits. It helps to chamfer the edge of the tube with a sharp blade so that it doesn't snag in the hotend.

     
    All three fans will need the wire retention piece clipped so the wires fit into the shroud channels easier.

    Use a small file to smooth out the break-off edges of the LED PCB and make sure the LED pockets are clear of 'droopy bits'

     
    Assembly Instructions
    After pressing the status LED diffuser into place, install the right part-cooling fan first by feeding the wires through the small hole at the bottom. Then feed the wires for the status LED and hotend fan through before starting to push the LED carrier into position.

    Carefully push the status LED carrier as far as it will go and then carefully press the fan into position while making sure not to pinch the part-cooling fan wires.

    Press the remaining LEDs into their slots. (I measure out 35mm of wire to connect these LEDs together)

    Here is another view also showing how the hotend fan wires fit through the hole on the side of the status LED carrier.

    Insert the second part-cooling fan and splice the wires together with the first fan.

    Install the hotend with at least two M2.5x6 screws (M3x6 for the Revo Voron). The heater cartridge should be installed away from the LEDs to avoid overheating them.

    Pre-assemble the extruder pieces before installing into the shroud. Use M3x30 screws to attach motor_bridge.

    Install the extruder with an M3x6 BHCS on the back and then an M3x12 from below.

    Ensure the cables are routed as flat to the shroud as possible and secure them with zip ties.

    Install the strain_relief or cable_chain_mount with two M3x8 screws and the cable_door with another M3x8 screw. Close the cable door with an M3x6 screw.

    Happy Printing!

    2,431 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    21 comments

    Updated

  19. Mini Stealth - Orbiter 1.5

    This toolhead scales down the body of the Stealthburner to a size which fits into a V0.1. Fully assembled it weighs about 80 grams less than the original. It is designed around the Orbiter 1.5 extruder and has versions for the Phaetus Dragonfly, Dragon and Rapido HF hotends as well as a version to fit the Revo Voron hotend. It incorporates a status LED as well as two for print visibility.
    22 Nov 2022:   I have added new versions that should fit the Mosquito hotend. I cannot verify the fitment so if there are any issues please leave a comment.
    It uses a pair of 4010 blowers which I found to produce slightly more airflow than a 5015 blower while being notably less noisy and drawing less current. The depth of these fans do limit Y travel by 3mm on a V0.1 while the door is closed and tophat is on. The width of the main body at its base is also a very tight fit at the extremes of X travel. I have raised my tophat by 20mm which gives the cabling and filament tube plenty of room to breathe.
    I have also installed this on my Trident. The included files do not address cable management on a Trident or V2.4 but do provide mounting to the MGN12 carriage. The cable chain on a Trident or V2.4 would have to be moved back at least 5mm to clear the extruder stepper motor.
    The part cooling ducts of the original file act as a simple air dump similar to the mini-Afterburner. The 'alt_ducts' version is based on the Stealthburner ducts and provides a more restrictive but targeted airflow. This seems to give better cooling but I have not done any meaningful testing yet.
    The included Blender file shows the entire assembly complete with screws and should answer most basic questions.
    Note on MGN-9 installation:
    The default 2mm x 10 plastic threading screw is too long for mounting the x-axis endstop. An M2 x 8 does the job fine. For mounting to the linear carriage use four M3 x 6 flat-head screws.
    Rapido HF
     Note: The MGN carriage shown is an MGN-9H, not the shorter MGN-9C used in the V0.1 mod.
    Assembly Instructions
    After pressing the status LED diffuser into place, install the right part-cooling fan first by feeding the wires through the small hole at the bottom. Then feed the wires for the status LED and hotend fan through before starting to push the LED carrier into position.

    Carefully push the status LED carrier as far as it will go and then carefully press the fan into position while making sure not to pinch the part-cooling fan wires.

    Press the remaining LEDs into their slots. (I measure out 35mm of wire to connect these LEDs together)

    Here is another view also showing where the hotend fan wires fit.

    Insert the second part-cooling fan and splice the wires together with the first fan.

    Install the hotend with at least two M2.5x6 screws. The heater cartridge should be installed away from the LEDs to avoid overheating them.

    Gather the wires together and secure them with the first zip-tie.
    (it helps to insert a snipped zip-tie through the the hole and yank it through with pliers to remove printing artifacts from inside of the channels)

    Loop the wire bundle back around and add in the LED and hotend fan wires. Use two more zip-ties to secure everything in place. ENSURE to leave room for the extruder by lifting the loop of wires up and out of the way as shown. More space is much better than not enough. (Don't forget the PTFE tube)

    Pre-assemble the extruder pieces before installing into the shroud. Use two M3x8 BHCS to install the Orbiter 1.5 extruder. It helps to have both screws in the Orbiter before putting it in place. Start the screw by the latch and then the blind screw should be easier to align.

    Gather all of the wires together and then use a zip-tie to secure them to the motor-bridge. Leave a little slack in the extruder wires.
    Install the strain_relief with two M3x6/8 screws and the cable_door with a M3x10/12 screw.
    Close the cable door with a M3x6 screw and screw in the extruder tensioning thumb screw.

     
    Happy Printing!

    2,012 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    35 comments

    Updated

  20. EBB36 mount for Orbiter extruder

    EBB36 mount for Orbiter extruder
    Amended version of: 
     

    13 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  21. Power Inlet for FN 283/FN 284 Switch-Filter with LR Wings

    This is my first functional 3d printer part remix, I used https://www.teamfdm.com/files/file/205-powerskirt-fn284-10-06/ and inset it into the power inlet part.

    3 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  22. Alternative MagProbe for heat-resistant SSG Micro-Switch

    One of my goal was to print Polycarbonate (PC) as smoothly as possible.
    Unfortunately, PC is notorious for heavy warping. A possible countermeasure is to raise the chamber temp - in my case to around 60°C.
    (Be sure, that every component within your chamber can take the heat.)
    Around that temperature I found that the magnetic probe and the regular Micro-Switch probe aren't reliable anymore. 
    So, I switched to a SSG-5P Micro-Switch, which is heat-resistant up to 120°C. 
    The magnetic probe is a bit wider than the regular probe. Therefore, you have to reprint the X-Carriage. As of now, I redesigned the X-Carriage for CW1 - not CW2.
    Original probe made by Annex: https://github.com/Annex-Engineering/Quickdraw_Probe

    15 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  23. Trident Simple Internal Spool Holder + Bowden Guide 60degrees curved

    My first Voron becomes ready part by part, by the mods i already have done it nearly wouldn't had been neccessary to buy the printed parts, but anyway...
     I'm a fan of the Horseshoe Spool Holder from Logan Fraser, but it has the disadvantage that it only fits Spools with 20cm rims!
    So I decided to create an extrusion mounted simple Universal Holder to the back using the standard extrusion frame holder that came with the printed parts. It can be used standalone or as in my case in addition to logans horseshoe. As both the horseshoe and the simple are extrusion mounted I can easy remove the bottom plate as I also use Logans Inverted Electronics (as well as his Pi Plate I also modified). To be able to have the Filament inserted from Horseshoe or my universal version I also made a curved Bowden Guide angled at 60 degrees to the extrusion. The curved outlet up to the toolhead is angled to guide the bowden to the extrusion to prevent the bowden touching the cabling of the stepper motor. The Bowden Guide needs a support (see pic below)
     
    Parts needed:
    SIS:
    M5 x 20mm, M5-Nut (pull the nut into the holder with the M5x20 first), M5 x 10mm, M5 extrusion nut
    Bowden Guide:
    M3 x 8, M3 Hammerhead
     
     
    Many thanks Logan for your incredible Mods!
     
    As always, have fun






    31 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  24. Crown Cooler - CPAP Ring Cooler for Trident, V2.4

    This mod originally was developed to
    mount a Rapido HF and UHF hot end. improve overall cooling performance by increasing airflow using a CPAP tube provide uniform cooling with airflow directed downwards be lightweight and easy to maintain be compatible with standard voron carriage and extruder mounting parts work with klickyprobe  
    Installation Instructions / compatibility
     
    This mod uses the standard X carriage parts. This mod should work with all types of extruder mounting parts, including CW2 (however, I have not yet tested it). I use the orbiter V2 extruder mount found here. Print the cooling duct with no supports (if your printer can handle the overhang at the top) or build plate only supports, file in STL folder. Print the front toolhead part with supports. The rear toolhead part is the standard rapido voron part. Print the offset klickyprobe mount, file in STL folder.
      Planned features
    Rapido HF support [DONE!] Mounting location for ADXL gyro Euclid probe support  
     

    29 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  25. Mount for BIGTREETECH HDMI5 screen Trident / Voron 2.xxx

    Thanks to sttts for his Bracket which allowed me to do this mount !! 
    https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/sttts/Waveshare-5.5-inch-HDMI-AMOLED
    Disclaimer 
    may you needs to raise the Feets couple of mm , in my situation on trident i have to use 6mm raiser with longer M5 screws , maybe on the V2.4 not needed but i uploaded the raiser just in case .
    Bom 
    Screen housing    |  3x m3x6mm -- 3x M3 heast set inserts (voron BOM inserts ) Bracket      |  3x m3x8mm    -- 3x m3 2020 T-Nut .  
    BIGTREETECH HDMI5
     
    i use Flexible Angled 90° HDMI / USB-C  
    angled Hdmi cable 1 angled USB-C  
    i Hope this help - and happy 3d printing 

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