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Found 5 results

  1. Version 1.1.4

    2,012 downloads

    This toolhead scales down the body of the Stealthburner to a size which fits into a V0.1. Fully assembled it weighs about 80 grams less than the original. It is designed around the Orbiter 1.5 extruder and has versions for the Phaetus Dragonfly, Dragon and Rapido HF hotends as well as a version to fit the Revo Voron hotend. It incorporates a status LED as well as two for print visibility. 22 Nov 2022: I have added new versions that should fit the Mosquito hotend. I cannot verify the fitment so if there are any issues please leave a comment. It uses a pair of 4010 blowers which I found to produce slightly more airflow than a 5015 blower while being notably less noisy and drawing less current. The depth of these fans do limit Y travel by 3mm on a V0.1 while the door is closed and tophat is on. The width of the main body at its base is also a very tight fit at the extremes of X travel. I have raised my tophat by 20mm which gives the cabling and filament tube plenty of room to breathe. I have also installed this on my Trident. The included files do not address cable management on a Trident or V2.4 but do provide mounting to the MGN12 carriage. The cable chain on a Trident or V2.4 would have to be moved back at least 5mm to clear the extruder stepper motor. The part cooling ducts of the original file act as a simple air dump similar to the mini-Afterburner. The 'alt_ducts' version is based on the Stealthburner ducts and provides a more restrictive but targeted airflow. This seems to give better cooling but I have not done any meaningful testing yet. The included Blender file shows the entire assembly complete with screws and should answer most basic questions. Note on MGN-9 installation: The default 2mm x 10 plastic threading screw is too long for mounting the x-axis endstop. An M2 x 8 does the job fine. For mounting to the linear carriage use four M3 x 6 flat-head screws. Rapido HF Note: The MGN carriage shown is an MGN-9H, not the shorter MGN-9C used in the V0.1 mod. Assembly Instructions After pressing the status LED diffuser into place, install the right part-cooling fan first by feeding the wires through the small hole at the bottom. Then feed the wires for the status LED and hotend fan through before starting to push the LED carrier into position. Carefully push the status LED carrier as far as it will go and then carefully press the fan into position while making sure not to pinch the part-cooling fan wires. Press the remaining LEDs into their slots. (I measure out 35mm of wire to connect these LEDs together) Here is another view also showing where the hotend fan wires fit. Insert the second part-cooling fan and splice the wires together with the first fan. Install the hotend with at least two M2.5x6 screws. The heater cartridge should be installed away from the LEDs to avoid overheating them. Gather the wires together and secure them with the first zip-tie. (it helps to insert a snipped zip-tie through the the hole and yank it through with pliers to remove printing artifacts from inside of the channels) Loop the wire bundle back around and add in the LED and hotend fan wires. Use two more zip-ties to secure everything in place. ENSURE to leave room for the extruder by lifting the loop of wires up and out of the way as shown. More space is much better than not enough. (Don't forget the PTFE tube) Pre-assemble the extruder pieces before installing into the shroud. Use two M3x8 BHCS to install the Orbiter 1.5 extruder. It helps to have both screws in the Orbiter before putting it in place. Start the screw by the latch and then the blind screw should be easier to align. Gather all of the wires together and then use a zip-tie to secure them to the motor-bridge. Leave a little slack in the extruder wires. Install the strain_relief with two M3x6/8 screws and the cable_door with a M3x10/12 screw. Close the cable door with a M3x6 screw and screw in the extruder tensioning thumb screw. Happy Printing!
  2. Version 1.0.0

    13 downloads

    EBB36 mount for Orbiter extruder Amended version of:
  3. Version 1.0.0

    1,826 downloads

    Orbiter 1.5 on SB 20/04/2022 .step available my config rotation_distance: 35.1 gear_ratio: 75:10 microsteps: 32 full_steps_per_rotation: 200 #200 for 1.8 degree, 400 for 0.9 degree nozzle_diameter: 0.400 filament_diameter: 1.75 max_extrude_only_velocity: 60 thanks to Eytecz (https://github.com/Eytecz/LGX_Lite_Stealthburner_CW2_style_mount/ ) for his mount of lgx lite on SB to inspire me to complet this orbiter 1.5 . i hope you like it
  4. Version 1.0.0

    328 downloads

    StealthOrbiter This mod aims to mount the orbiter V2.0 extruder to the stealthburner assembly. In addition, it incorporates the Orbiter filament sensor to enable support for the ERCF. In addition, it also includes a canbus toolhead mount (BTT EBB36 board for now). If you would instead prefer to use a cable chain, spacelab_2021 has developed a cable chain mount that attaches to the back of the orbiter motor here: https://www.teamfdm.com/files/file/485-orbiter-2-clockwork-beta/ Development Roadmap 1)[COMPLETE] Initial release! 2)Add cable shroud. 3)Incorporate fan into cable shroud (cooling canbus toolhead stepper). 4)Design version of orbiter mount with cable chain attachment. Installation Instructions coming soon? Acknowledgments - spacelab_2021, for providing the starting point I used in developing this mod
  5. My Voron 2.4 running Klipper had been running great for a while but the afterburner assembly was starting to show weakness. I thought it was a good time for an upgrade so I installed a new Orbiter 2.0 with filament detector on my Voron 2.4 and the problems began...... witht he Orbiter 2.0 installed i have not been able to get my rotation distance anything like close to accurate. last print had massive over extrusion with lots of noise from the extruder. To statrt isolating the problem /as an experiment I ran 50mm (requested) filament through the extruder body only (no lower nozzle assempbly) and got about 250mm of filament instead. Fortunately the awful noise stopped. Ergo i think my initial problem is that the over extrusion i jsut discovered was overwhelming the nozzle and jamming. easy so far. On to the print config..... And incredible frustration as any and all changes to the print config file make no measurable difference in the amount of over feed. here is the code after a lot of trial and error and no change (i suspect there are a number of settings that i have turned off or on to see what if anything would happen- no change.). here is the code- ##################################################################### # Extruder ##################################################################### ## Connected to MOTOR_6 ## Heater - HE0 ## Thermistor - T0 [extruder] step_pin: PE2 dir_pin: PE3 enable_pin: !PD4 ## Update value below when you perform extruder calibration ## If you ask for 100mm of filament, but in reality it is 98mm: ## rotation_distance = <previous_rotation_distance> * <actual_extrude_distance> / 100 ## 22.6789511 is a good starting point #Bondtech 5mm Drive Gears AfterBurner ## 34.37086 for Bondtech 8mm gears (Galileo ## rotation_distance: 4.637 for Orbiter 2.0 rotation_distance: 4.637 ## Update Gear Ratio depending on your Extruder Type ## Use 50:17 for Afterburner/Clockwork (BMG Gear Ratio) ## Use 80:20 for M4, M3.1 # orbiter motor LDO-36STH20-1004AHG(XH) # gear_ratio: 7:1 microsteps: 16 full_steps_per_rotation: 200 #200 for 1.8 degree, 400 for 0.9 degree # max_extrude_only_distance: 500 # max_extrude_only_velocity: 120 # <- for orbiter motor LDO-36STH20-1004AHG(XH) # max_extrude_only_accel: 800 # <- for orbiter motor LDO-36STH20-1004AHG(XH) nozzle_diameter: 0.400 filament_diameter: 1.75 heater_pin: PA2 ## Validate the following thermistor type to make sure it is correct ## See https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html#common-thermistors for additional options sensor_type: SliceEngineering 450 sensor_pin: PF4 min_temp: 10 max_temp: 270 max_power: 1.0 min_extrude_temp: 170 # control = pid # pid_kp = 26.213 # pid_ki = 1.304 # pid_kd = 131.721 ## Try to keep pressure_advance below 1.0 pressure_advance: 0.025 ## Default is 0.040, leave stock pressure_advance_smooth_time: 0.030 ## E0 on MOTOR6 ## Make sure to update below for your relevant driver (2208 or 2209) [tmc2209 extruder] uart_pin: PE1 interpolate: False run_current: 0.85 hold_current: 0.100 sense_resistor: 0.11 stealthchop_threshold: 0 # driver_TBL: 0 # driver_HEND: 6 # driver_HSTRT: 7 # driver_TOFF: 4 ###################################################################################################### ## I haven't made any changes above or below these lines so i the problem MAY be in here################################## ###################################################################################################### All of which leads me to my theory - incorrect wiring of the ldo-36st17-1004ahg to the tcm2209. Now i am very new to electronics and the instructions for wiring the Orbiter 2.0 to the V2.4 are yet to be found by me (if anybody has them, please share) so it would be an easy mistake. i feel like this is some sort of reversed polarity issue and leaves me with no idea where to begin with figuring this out. anybody got any ideas?
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