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Found 17 results

  1. Version 1.0.0


    I've made a mount for the Beacon3D probe for a CW2 Switchwire I used the normal version beacon probe Mount has been tested and works great, here is a youtube short of it in action *** I've added a second mount as that moved the probe 2mm further away I wasn't happy with the original mount because as soon as the carriage got a bit melted the probe would start touching the heat block. I also believe because the probe is so close to the heater it causes the mount the deform.
  2. Version 0.7.1


    This x-carriage is designed as a nozzle probing option for mounting a Mini Stealth in a Voron Trident or V2.4. It uses a simple linear compliant mechanism to allow minimal Z travel while being quite rigid in the other five degrees of movement. Completely assembled including Z and X endstops it weighs in at 18g. It should require the same Print_Start preparations as the Voron TAP to ensure a clean nozzle and accurate probing. On my Vorpal 180 printer I got sub 0.002mm probe_accuracy results while testing but this design does require a rigid gantry and print bed. While probing with a scale on top of the bed, it was reading up to 800g of force but this is not a very reliable measurement. The Vorpal printer has a PCB style bed and no 2020 profile for the gantry. I am working to rebuild the toolhead on my Trident to test the DAB but that uses a Prusa PCB bed as well. There are breakable supports and bed adhesion aids (shown in green in the last picture) built into the .stl file. After printing, the flexure feature will need to be pried slightly to separate the center section from the bridge that the toolhead mounts to and allow movement. This is easier to do while the part is still warm from printing and a thin spudger can be useful. I have added two sample flexures to demonstrate how the length of the web pieces effect the stiffness of the mechanism. Parts Required: Mini_Stealth_DAB_ver0.6 DAB_Z_Stop_Boss(X_Stop) 2 - M3 x 4 grub screws (not pointed) 4 - M2 x 10 self tapping screws (5 if X endstop) 1 - microswitch with lever removed 2 - M3 square nuts 4 - M3 x 12 BHCS Assembly: After ensuring that the flexure moves freely, install one of the grub screws in the top and screw it in just enough to remove the looseness in the flexure. This provides a known lower limit of travel. Install the Z_Stop_Boss with two M2 x 10 screws from the front. Then install the Z micro-switch with the red trigger on the left (viewed from the back). The wires can be fed to the front through the lower gap in the flexure. Install the other M3 grub screw on the bottom of the DAB_Z_Boss. Screw it in until you hear the micro-switch trigger and then turn it back out until the trigger releases. This makes the trigger travel distance less than 0.5mm. Mount the x-carriage to the MGN12C carriage with four M3x12 BHCS. There is room to pull the four belt ends through and trim them at the front face of the DAB. This design will now fit all of the Mini Stealth v2 variations. The extruders have each been raised as needed to avoid the prior collisions with the top of the flexure frame. Stealthburner Version: This version of the DAB is a drop-in replacement for the Stealthburner x-frame pieces. It uses slightly different hardware than the official Stealthburner assembly, as shown in the picture below. Please leave comments, questions and feedback.
  3. Version 1.0.0


    I've made some alternative beacon mounts for myself that i'll share I wasn't happy with the original mount because as soon as the carriage got a bit melted the probe would start touching the heat block (see attached photo). I also believe because the probe is so close to the heater it causes the mount the deform. I've made a mount that sits the probe back 2mm from the original but I have not tested this one, this brings me the other other mount I made. The second mount is specific to a Dragon hotend that is rotated 180°. I did this to be able to see the nozzle better and it's now possible as there is no more probe in the way of achieving this. So far it's working well for me I've printed my parts out of PCCF so if anyone can report their findings with an ABS mount that would be great but moving the probe should have done the trick. The original beacon mount from annex can be found here if you were looking for that: https://github.com/Annex-Engineering/Annex-Engineering_User_Mods/tree/main/Printers/Non_Annex_Printers/VORON_Printers/VORON_V2dot4/annex_dev-stealthburner_beacon_x_carriage
  4. Hey everyone my name is Tim. So this my first venture into the Voron ecosystem! I had one of the original MakerBot Replicator 2x machines when they were brand new. It was cool but I had so much issues with bed adhesion and heat break clogging that I never really got to enjoy it much. That printer didn't even have a down draft fan oiy! Anyway I have been watching allot of you tube all about Vorons and dying to build one. I am also a stay at home Dad with a 3 and 5 year old. So finding an engineering project to chip away at is nice! I also always wished I had built a rep rap back in the day to learn every part of the machine. I coach our Local high school First Robotics team with my friend Joe. (We are team #4546 and my last name is like the duck. One of my students used to watch CSI and the name stuck) Joe bought a CR6-SE last season and has been running those printers not stop and making some pretty nice prints for a $350 printer. I after giving up on the old Rep2x hardware I picked up my own CR6 and installed a PEI sheet. It has the integrated nozzle probe via a strain gauge and it resets its Z just like the Voron printers. I was really happy how reliable it has been. Back to back 24hr prints with no complaints. I wipe the bed with alcohol and hit go. I barley watch the first layer with my current settings. But it is dang slow and I would like to print with more exotic materials (Green Duramatic PLA+ has been great for now) I found a kit for a Voron M4 extruder and printed the parts out super rough. I thought it was going to stink but a few cleaned up holes and it is butter smooth. That got me excited and back on the trident gantry I had printed over the summer when the printer was new. I got my butt in gear and ordered up the parts I was missing have begun mocking up how this thing is going to sit in this Maker Bot Replicator 2 chassis. I Currently have a mini stealth burner and Rapido hot and orbiter v2.0. I also had a Wifi Duet board I had purchased a while ago. So I might as well use the parts I have! Now I just have to decide how I'm going to mount the gantry and make a new cross bar or suspend it from the stock sheet metal. I am kind of treating it like an over grown V0 and It should look like a Replicator 2 from a distance when done but way more cool and fast! I have a bi metal heat break and enclosure ready to install to reprint the parts in ABS. It has been a lot of fun so far. I do want to build a 2.4 x 300 in the near future Its cool to see this wacky idea taking shape!
  5. Version 1.0.0


    I have made modifications to use M3 DIN7380 screws. Much less random than if you use filament as pins.
  6. So I decided to self source Voron 2.4 R2 back in August I bought most of the parts so far I am going with 350x350x350 generic cable chains with SB and Rapido 2 HF with BTT Octopus and raspbery Pi 4 Extrusions from Aliexpress Motion kit from Aliexpress Pi 4 B2 2GB from Pi Hut BTT LDO motor kit from Aliexpress
  7. Version 1.0.1


    This model is for the PCB Klicky probe available from Fysetc, as featured in the Whopping Voron Mods pack - whopping_Voron_mods/pcb_klicky at main · tanaes/whopping_Voron_mods · GitHub PCB Klicky is based on 2 mods - Klicky Probe by JosAr and Euclid Probe. I really didn't like the original dock that came in the mod pack, I found it to be very fiddly and ineffective for holding the probe. This replaces the dock-front_insert.stl file from the pack. This dock has an enlarged hole on the front to fit the magnet attached to the probe, it also has a space behind big enough to fit a 6x3mm magnet to help hold the probe in place. As well a this, it has tabs on the top to cover the klicky while docking and undocking. This model should be printed upright (as loaded when opened in your slicer) with Voron specs. Tested and working on one of my custom 2.4r2's I went through 2 other iterations of this design before settling on the one that's uploaded; V1 kept to the height of the original dock, however, was slightly too tight all over and didn't have the back magnet mounting. V2 saw an increase in the height of the tabs, allowing for slightly more space to rest the PCB. This proved to be a better fit, but I wasn't happy with the sizing of the front magnet hole - in this iteration I included the back magnet hole. V3 saw an increase in the hole sizing on the front, this enables the probe to dock and undock effortlessly, with no thought. **ADDED 28th JUNE 2023** I have also now made a side mount to attach probe to an adjustable docking station - I use a Volcano hotend and the standard dock isn't long enough, also the side mount doesn't fit the adjustable mount. This enables you to use a longer print head and still use things like the nozzle scrub mod
  8. Version 1.0.0


    This Remix of RyanDam's Cable Management Duct for Voron Printers includes a number of custom ducts which I am using in my Voron 2.4 build. Thanks to the original author for the excellent design of the ducts, which this remix is based on! Since these models are designed to work with electrical components, if you use these models, it is at your own risk. Included here are several customized ducts which may help with cable management in a Voron build. I am still in the process of building mine, and I chose to use the same electronics layout as the voron spec. These ducts were designed based on my FYSETC R2.4 kit (which I am building as an R2.4 V2), so some dimensions may be different in other kits. This was designed with help from the STEP file from the Voron Github. There are several ducts included, which are designed to go over the DIN rails, and these parts include “BRIDGE” in their names. These parts will need to be printed with supports. There is an integrated support in the “HALF_BRIDGE” part, but that could also be printed with supports if needed. The “HALF_BRIDGE” part also has a thin raft like integrated support which will need to be removed. The 90 degree full bridge ducts are slightly different between the right hand (RH) and left hand (LH) versions. The difference is that the RH version (Cable_Management_Duct_Remix_DUCT-FULL-BRIDGE_90DEG_RH_5B.stl) is cut off a bit short to allow the power supply stabilization bracket to pass. I set my ducts up so that the high voltage AC wires, and the low voltage DC wires, would stay in separate ducts. To do this, I used two half ducts (one for the AC, and one for DC), on the center duct which crosses the lower DIN rail in the pics, which is nearest the power supply. I also printed the AC ducts in orange so they would be distinctive as a reminder they contain the high voltage AC wires. There are also plain and logo versions of the covers. The covers for the “BRIDGE” parts have print in place hinges, so if you find they are welded together when printed, it will be helpful to calibrate flow and horizontal expansion, as well as adjust the temps for the filament used. I made some minor improvements to parts since I printed mine (either for length or printability), but I do not think there will be any issues due to the changes. I printed the ducts for my printer in ABS and PETG, but use your best judgement on the appropriate material to use. I used VHB tape to secure them, but just note that once placed, they won't likely be going anywhere soon. Parts are not oriented for printing. Feedback is welcome, and if there is a problem I will try to fix it as I have time. I'm still building my printer, so if I run into an issue with this design, I will update it further, however I don't foresee any interference issues currently. Most likely I will not be able to accommodate requests to customize these further. The STEP files can be found on Printables (since the file was too large for this site), so remixing will be simpler. If you print these, or use these, it is at your own risk. I posted some remix covers for the boxes, which have inset printed labels, as well as some single and double wire guides which I am using to secure my ground wires. If you find these models useful, please post a like or a comment with some pics of your prints. You can find some other things I am working on at my blog (https://www.mystoopidstuff.com/blog), thanks for looking! You can find some additional low profile wire guides here: https://www.printables.com/model/502345-wire-management-guides There is a remix of the small box (not included here but shown in the pics), which holds two WAGO 221-415 connectors here: https://www.printables.com/model/505826-wago-box-for-the-remix-of-ryandams-cable-managemen The AC caution covers, with inset text and warning symbols for the small box and half bridge duct, can can be found here: https://www.printables.com/model/505838-ac-caution-covers-for-remix-of-ryandams-cable-mana/files
  9. Version 2.0.0


    Hey guys, So! I'm going dual (and triple) extrusion on my printers and didn't want to fuss with the ERCF for my smaller ones, so I bring to you the Mobius M4 dual extruder mount for the Voron 2.4 / Voron Trident. Tested as working - All fits together, all fits on to the voron, extruders attach easily. This is (kind of) a remix of the following: Elegoo Neptune 2-2S-2D Dual M4 Extruder Mount by mlee12382 | Download free STL model | Printables.com I got the original idea from the linked file above, I imported it into fusion 360 and sketched around it (getting rid of the unnecessary holes where they've obviously used tinkercad and the M4 baseplate. Instead of the silly (weak looking) cylinders that have been merged to some other blocks, I sketched out a stronger join and inserted the holes through that - also got rid of the stupid hole sizes that were used and made these 3.2mm in diameter for the M3 screws and 5.2 for the M5 screws - this means your screws should slide in nicely even if your settings are off. With the Filament Runout Sensor mounts, so far I have just copied the original, but again made the joints stronger and the holes a decent size - I'm not sure if this will work with the sensors I want to use so will report back later - the way these are designed means you can print them flat instead of upright, saving time! On top of this, I have added fillets to any stress points I considered to be weak - this should improve longevity of the mount. To mount it on to the printer I have just used the Voron spool holder mounting technique - it is designed to sit into the 2020 extrusion and grip over the top panel.
  10. Ever wondered why DIY 3D printing enthusiasts are so passionate about their hobby? Perhaps you've heard about the Voron series of printers, renowned for their high performance and dedicated community support. Whether you're a seasoned professional or an enthusiastic hobbyist, this article aims to highlight why you might choose to build a Voron DIY printer over a commercially available one. Get ready for an in-depth exploration into the world of learning, innovation, and camaraderie that is Voron DIY 3D printing. 1. Unparalleled Learning Opportunities Learning by Doing One of the most significant benefits of building a Voron printer yourself is the incredible hands-on learning experience it offers. There's an undeniable sense of satisfaction that comes from building something with your own hands, and a DIY 3D printer is no different. The experience is not just about piecing together a machine; it's about understanding the intricate mechanisms, learning the nuances of 3D printing, and acquiring a new skill set. This learning-by-doing approach is a proven method for improving the understanding and retention of information. Education for Everyone TeamFDM caters to all levels of DIY enthusiasts. If you're a beginner in the 3D printing world, our extensive collection of instructive tutorials guides you through every step of the assembly process. For intermediate and advanced users, there are resources to delve deeper into the nuances of your Voron DIY printer. Explore our tutorials here and start learning today. Table: Learning Opportunities Commercial Printer Voron DIY Printer Plug-and-play model - Limited learning Hands-on assembly – Rich learning opportunities Dependence on manufacturer support Skills to troubleshoot and fix issues independently Limited knowledge transfer – primarily operational instructions Wide range of tutorials for assembly, operation, maintenance, and more 2. Unlimited Personal Customization Making It Your Own Commercial printers are designed for mass production. They follow a one-size-fits-all approach that often doesn't cater to specific user needs. On the other hand, a Voron DIY printer offers the opportunity for personal customization at every step. You can adjust the build volume to suit your projects, add a dual extrusion setup, or even modify the frame for increased stability. The possibilities are endless. Access to Mods What's even better is that you're not alone in this customization journey. Our UserMod/Downloads section at TeamFDM is a treasure trove of over 600 community-created mods. These mods can help enhance your printer's performance, aesthetics, and functionality. Check out the mods here and start making your Voron printer truly your own. Table: Customization Comparison Commercial Printer Voron DIY Printer Limited to manufacturer's design and functionality Freedom to modify the design to suit personal needs Modifications can void the warranty The community encourages and supports modifications Lacks unique or personalized features Access to thousands of FREE community-created mods 3. Vibrant Community Support A Global Family of Enthusiasts The Voron community is one of the most vibrant and supportive 3D printing communities worldwide. It's a group of like-minded enthusiasts who come together to share knowledge, solve problems, and innovate. At TeamFDM, we're proud to facilitate this community's growth and foster a spirit of collaboration and support. Connecting Through Forums Our forum, the largest Voron community forum, is the go-to place for anything and everything Voron. Here, you can ask questions, share your successes, discuss mods, or simply connect with other Voron builders. Being part of this community means you have the collective wisdom and experience of thousands of Voron enthusiasts at your fingertips. Check out our forum here. Real-Time Chat and Support on Discord For more immediate support and conversation, the Voron community also has an active presence on Discord. The VoronDesign public Discord server offers real-time chat where you can engage with other Voron users, get instant feedback, and even share your live build or print progress. It’s a fantastic resource for both new and experienced builders alike. Table: Community Comparison Commercial Printer Voron DIY Printer Customer service is often slow and impersonal Real-time support from enthusiastic community members Limited shared knowledge and resources Access to our forum - the largest Voron community forum Limited user interactions and support Regular community interactions foster collaboration, learning, and innovation 4. Continuous Innovation The Power of Mods Voron printers are known for their superior performance. However, that doesn't mean there's no room for improvement. The Voron community is always pushing the boundaries of what's possible with their printers. The result is a constant stream of innovative mods that enhance functionality, improve print quality, and offer new features. Evolving with the Community At TeamFDM, we believe in the power of community-driven innovation. We host and share these innovative mods in our UserMod/Downloads section, providing a platform for users to share their creativity with the global Voron community. This ongoing innovation ensures that your Voron printer can evolve and improve alongside the community. Explore the innovative mods here. Table: Innovation Comparison Commercial Printer Voron DIY Printer Limited scope for upgrades - most require buying a new model Continuous improvements and updates from the community Proprietary parts can be costly to replace Can use cost-effective, standard parts or innovative mods Relies on manufacturer's R&D for improvements Benefits from the collective creativity and experimentation of a global community 5. Cost-Effectiveness Building your Voron DIY printer can be significantly more cost-effective than buying a commercial 3D printer of equivalent performance. This cost-effectiveness comes from two factors - the affordability of parts and savings from self-assembly. Affordable Parts One of the principles of the Voron design is to use easily available, standard parts wherever possible. This approach means that Voron printer parts are typically more affordable than their proprietary counterparts in commercial printers. It also means that you have a range of suppliers to choose from, ensuring competitive pricing. Savings from Self-Assembly Commercial printers come pre-assembled, and the cost of this assembly is built into the price. By choosing to assemble your Voron printer yourself, you can save significantly on these assembly costs. Not only does self-assembly provide a rich learning experience, but it also makes high-performance 3D printing more accessible to those on a tight budget. Table: Cost Comparison Commercial Printer Voron DIY Printer Higher upfront costs due to assembly and proprietary parts Lower cost due to self-assembly and standard parts Replacement parts can be costly and hard to find Replacement parts are affordable and easily available Upgrades often involve buying new models Cost-effective upgrades through mods and parts replacement 6. The Building Process: Step-by-Step Satisfaction Building your Voron printer is a step-by-step process that invites curiosity, problem-solving, and innovation. The process of seeing your printer come to life as you assemble it piece by piece is incredibly rewarding. Plus, the knowledge you gain from building your printer from scratch is invaluable when it comes to maintenance, troubleshooting, and upgrades. At TeamFDM, we're here to support you through this journey. Our comprehensive tutorials guide you through the process, from unboxing your parts to your first print. Along the way, you'll learn about the functions of each component, how they fit together, and how to optimize your setup for the best printing results. By building your Voron printer, you're not just creating a machine; you're developing a deep understanding of 3D printing technology. It's an educational journey that culminates in a tool you can use to bring your creative ideas to life. 7. Explore the World of Mods One of the most exciting aspects of the Voron community is the sheer variety and ingenuity of the mods available. These mods, created and shared by community members, offer ways to improve, customize, and personalize your Voron printer. In our UserMod/Downloads section, you'll find over 600 mods spanning a wide range of purposes. From practical enhancements like filament guides and tool holders to aesthetic mods that add a personal touch to your printer, the possibilities are endless. You can even find mods that add entirely new functions to your printer, like laser engraving or CNC milling capabilities! What's more, if you have an idea for a new mod, you can bring it to life and share it with the community. In this way, you're not just a consumer of mods – you can be a creator too. 8. Environmental Benefits of DIY 3D Printing Choosing to build a Voron DIY printer isn't just a win for your wallet and your skillset – it's also a win for the environment. Here's why: Less Waste When you build a printer yourself, you create less waste. Commercial printers often come with excessive packaging and can be over-engineered with unnecessary parts. With a DIY printer, you purchase only what you need, reducing waste. Longer Lifespan Commercial printers often become obsolete quickly, as manufacturers release new models and stop supporting older ones. With a Voron printer, you can easily upgrade and maintain your printer to keep it running for many years. Recyclable Materials Many of the parts used in Voron printers are made from recyclable materials. When parts need replacing, you can often recycle the old ones, reducing the environmental impact. Choosing to build a Voron DIY printer is choosing to be part of a global community of 3D printing enthusiasts. It's about embracing the spirit of learning, innovation, and camaraderie. It's about taking control of your 3D printing experience and making it truly your own. And at TeamFDM, we're here to support you every step of the way. Join us in this exciting DIY 3D printing journey today.
  11. Version 1.0.0


    I was shocked to see a significant difference between the results measured with the built-in accelerometer on the EBB36 board and those obtained using this nozzle mount. Here are the results: the sensor built into the EBB36 board X-axis shaper type: mzv, frequency: 62.4 Y-axis shaper type: mzv, frequency: 43.6 with this nozzle mount X-axis shaper type: 2hump_ei, frequency: 99.4 Y-axis shaper type: 2hump_ei, frequency: 87.8 What are your thoughts on this? Are these measured values really necessary for my printer? Required Qty 1 - M3 insert nuts Qty 1 - M3 x 10 socket head screw Qty 2 - M3 x 6 socket/button head screw
  12. Version 1.1.0


    I wanted to use Tap instead of Klicky/euclid probe on my V2.4 but i only had CW1 with Stealthburner so i set about seeing if it was possible to modify CW1 to fit TAP as CW1 motor mount fixes from the rear which TAP can't do. I managed to find a solution so now this CW1 mod fixes from the front instead of the rear. The left side mounting screw now fixes the CW1 Extruder Motor Plate from the front with an M3x8 SHCS screw going through to the heatset in the Tap Upper as in Pic1, the same as designed for CW2. The right side screw now goes through the font of the CW1 Extruder Body with an M3x30 SHCH screw going through to the heatset in the Tap Upper as in Pic2, again the same as designed for CW2 Once the two parts of CW1 are mounted to the TAP then the Printhead Rear/Front can be mounted on the Tap as per Tap instructions for CW2 printhead mounting, the CW1 Extruder Body has access cut outs in the front for alen keys to be able to tighten those little screws that hold the printhead in place, the rest of the build is as per TAP SB fitting instructions. I have had this mod on my V2.4 with SB and CW1 for a couple of months now and it works great....
  13. Version 3.1.3


    This is the Super Stealth Orbiter, a super low profile mount/housing for your Orbiter 1.5 with easy access for servicing the Orbiter without removing it from the printer/housing. After using 3dPmamsih 'Orbiter 1.5 for StealthBurner' for a few months I knew there were a few things I wanted to change. 1) To have an unbroken PTFE path from the exit of the orbiter directly down to the hot end. 3dPmamsih version had a break and required two pieces of PTFE with a bit of housing between. There were a few times my filament hung up in this section, so I wanted to remove it. 2) To break the full loop in front of the Orbiter that prevented the idler door from fully opening. This further prevented easy access to clean the gears and thus service or clean the extruder. 3) To have a proper Bowden tube coupler. 4) Various tweaks to the design to add additional reinforcement, rigidity, ease of assembly, and overall long term durability. 5) A sleek look that gives little to no indication of the extruder being used. This includes removing the thumb wheel from the idler tensioner and instead simply using an m3 bolt. In my case I find I can still tension to the desired amount with just my fingers and the bolt. I also don't tend to adjust this much once its set. PTFE path BOM: (Ill add this soon, but nothing special. If you have some m3 hardware and heat sets from your build you are probably good to go. Compatibility: Super Stealth Orbiter works with Orbiter 1.5 (I think that means the 1.0 should work too. Not sure.), the new MGN 12 based X-carriage (bolts go in from the front) and StealthBurner of course. Please do leave a comment and let me know how its working for you. If anyone wants to see a version for 2.0, send me one! Ill model it up and test it out. Don't need the motor, just extruder Finally, Ill try get a GitHub repo up for this as well. Thanks to 3dPmamsih. His design is the foundation for the Super Stealth Orbiter. I believe he adapted his design from Eytecz LGX lite mount, so big thanks to him too. (https://github.com/Eytecz/LGX_Lite_Stealthburner_CW2_style_mount/ ) "for his mount of lgx lite on SB to inspire me to complete this orbiter 1.5" .
  14. Version 2022.11.26


    Tap is a nozzle-based z-probe for the V2 and Trident printer designs. The entire toolhead moves to trigger an optical switch. Tap offers many advantages over other z-probes; Tap is a drop in replacement for the X carriage which includes a nozzle probe mechanism. For Voron Trident and V2 printers
  15. Version 2022.11.26


    Tap is a drop in replacement for the X carriage which includes a nozzle probe mechanism. For Voron Trident and V2 printers Bill of Materials Category Qty Description Notes Hardware 1 50 mm MGN9 Rail see cutting guide, Ends deburred, overall length +/- 1 mm Hardware 1 MGN-9H Carriage Medium preload (Z1) is preferred, but regular preload will work. Carriage must be removable from rail. Hardware 2 6 mm x 3 mm magnet 6 mm diameter, 3 mm tall cylinders. N52 strength preferred, N35 or higher strength required. Hardware 11 M3 Heatset Insert Standard Voron spec 4.7 mm diameter inserts Hardware 1 H3 Hex Nut ISO 4032 Hardware 6 M3 Washer DIN 125, 7mm outer diameter, 0.5 mm thickness Hardware 2 M3 x 20 SHCS Socket head cap screw Hardware 2 M3 x 16 SHCS Socket head cap screw Hardware 1 M3 x 12 SHCS Socket head cap screw Hardware 3 M3 x 8 SHCS Socket head cap screw Hardware 1 M3 x 6 SHCS Socket head cap screw Hardware 2 M3 x 6 FHCS Flat head cap screw. MUST BE MAGNETIC. No stainless, may be black oxide or zinc coated. Hardware 2 M3 x 10 BHCS Button Head Cap Screw Hardware 10 M3 x 6 BHCS Button Head Cap Screw Sensor Options: Select either “Wired Sensor” or “PCB Sensor" Wired Category Qty Description Notes Links Electronics 1 220 Ohm resistor ¼ Watt, +/- 10% tolerance resistor Electronics 1 OPB Wired Sensor Optek sensor, wired. OPB991 OPB991P51Z OPB991L51Z OPB991T51Z OPB991T11Z https://www.digikey.com/short/rrjtmvwm OPB991L11 https://www.digikey.com/short/cnnhjr5n PCB Sensor Category Qty Description Notes Links Electronics 1 OptoTap v2 PCB Electronics 1 OPB PCB Sensor Optek sensor: OPB666N or OPB971N51 OPB666N https://www.digikey.com/short/f2mzw5rm OPB971N51 https://www.digikey.com/short/m9rz73fp
  16. I recently created a group on Facebook to serve as an alternative to the Voron COREXY 3D Printer group. Some people feel that the aforementioned group is too much of a "walled garden" and controlled by people who are too closely linked to the Voron Devs and that this leads unpopular moderation decisions. Others are fine with it, but I think there is room for an independently run group. When I created the group I made some poor choices in how it was set up. After some discussion and a vote, we decided to delete that group and start again. The new group at https://www.facebook.com/groups/voron3dprinter. The group is run by me (hopefully with some help later if it gets to a significant size). I have nothing to do with Voron except that I built one of the printers. The group explicitly allows criticism of the Voron design and the developers, the group admins and expressions of opinion that are against the popular narrative. We have a very "hands off" approach to moderation and will rely on members reporting problem posts to trigger automated moderation actions. Please join us, we'd love to have you on board. Tim Long - proud Voron owner and group admin
  17. Formbot Trident Kit (minus rails, heater ,and board) Octopus Pro v1.0 Board Orbiter 2.0 Extruder Mellow Carbon Fiber X Axis Secondary Mean Well LRS150-48 150w 3.3A 48v PSU Fystec 5160qhv Stepper Drivers x2 for A/B Motors (For 48v) LDO 42STH48-25094AC Stepper Motors 2.5A Max for A/B KvP Steller Black ABS + KvP Banana Yellow ABS Accent + Paramount Deception Purple ABS Accent Polymaker PC-ABS Filament Blend for increased heat resistance for A/B motor mounts Fabreeko Edge to Edge Heater Fabreeko HoneyBadger Rails Printedsolid ACM Panels for Trident 3x Igus EGLM-05 Bearings to replace the GE5C Triangle Labs Rapido Hotend Bondtech CHT Nozzles 0.4mm - 1.0mm Titanium Extrusion Backers from Fabreeko Fystek 355x355 0.3mm Frosted PEI for back of Formbot Flexplate Mods: Klicky, Sexbolt, Rama's Better Front Idlers, Nevermore, AB ERCF 3.2 PCB, ADXL PCB, Steathburner, 270 degree door hinges Spacelab's Orbiter 2.0 Mount PiCam v2.1, FFC Mod (once its back in stock) ERCF 9 Color MMU from BlueRolls Ikea Lack Table I'm currently through page 62 of the Trident manual. This is my first time building a printer, and I only got into 3D printing in Nov 2021 (bought an Artillery Genius Pro). Been a lot of reading, watching, and geeking out. Hello Wisconsin!!! -OneStepAhead
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