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Found 8 results

  1. Version 1.2.5


    The Mini Stealth v2 toolhead is up on GitHub now. I will keep these files here as the new parts are not compatible with the v1.2.5 parts. I will support both versions in the comments here. I still need to create new assembly instructions but a lot of the steps are similar to what is described here. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- This toolhead scales down the body of the Stealthburner to a size which fits into a V0.1/V0.2. Fully assembled it weighs about 120 grams less than the original. It is designed around the Bondtech LGX Lite extruder and has versions for the Phaetus Dragonfly, Dragon and Rapido HF hotends as well as versions for the Mosquito, the Revo Voron and the Creality Spider Pro hotends. It incorporates a status LED as well as two for print visibility. I have added new stretched versions that should fit the Rapido UHF, Dragon UHF and the VolcoMosq hotends. The Dragon UHF and Rapido UHF hotends can fit in the same shroud. The UHF hotends will reduce Z travel by 8.5mm and the VolcoMosq by 3mm. I cannot verify the fitment so if there are any issues please leave a comment. There are now two hex pattern inlays based on the design by 3DP-MAMSIH and a tutorial on how to apply them to the shroud. The negative body feature of Prusa/Super Slicer can also be used to create a crop-top version of the shroud as described at the end of the tutorial. The shroud uses a pair of 4010 blowers which produce more airflow than a 5015 blower while also being notably less noisy and drawing less current. The depth of these fans do limit Y travel by 3mm on a V0.1 while the door is closed and tophat is on. The width of the main body at its base is also a very tight fit at the extremes of X travel. The shroud fits a 3010 hotend fan or a 3007 fan by using a clip-in adapter. The Mini Stealth LGX Lite fits well in a V2.4 or Trident and modified x-frame left and right pieces are included. There is a separate 'strain_relief' stl for use in the V0.1. There are also x-frame pieces that allow this Mini Stealth to be installed on a Switchwire. The nozzle is moved up by 3mm compared to the official Switchwire. The x-frame has geometry that allows a BL-Touch to fit locked between the two pieces. I have included a magnet mount and additional shroud .stl files to make this compatible with the ZeroClick mod. This toolhead also has versions that allow mounting a differential IR sensor. I have removed the mechanical Z endstop on my V0.1 and use the IR probe as an endstop and it has greatly simplified my homing sequence. There are additional x-frame pieces that allow mounting the Beacon3D probe, Euclid or Biqu MicroProbe for a V2.4, Trident or Switchwire. The included Blender file shows the entire assembly complete with screws and should answer most basic questions. Note on MGN-9 installation: The default 2mm x 10 plastic threading screw is too long for mounting the x-axis endstop. An M2 x 8 does the job fine. For mounting to the linear carriage use four M3 x 6 flat-head screws. Note: The MGN carriage shown is an MGN-9H, not the shorter MGN-9C used in the V0.1 mod. Preparation I recommend test fitting the extruder, LGX_lite_adapter_plate, PTFE tube and hotend into the shroud before running any wires to ensure that the PTFE tube length is correct and everything fits. It helps to chamfer the edge of the tube with a sharp blade so that it doesn't snag in the hotend. I is a good idea to use a file to lightly remove any printing artifacts on the mating face of the shroud. All three fans will need the wire retention piece clipped so the wires fit into the shroud channels easier. Use a small file to smooth out the break-off edges of the LED PCB and make sure the LED pockets are clear of 'droopy bits' Differential IR Probe Installation The IR Probe needs to be screwed into place with two M2.5x8 FHCS before installing any of the fans, except with the VolcoMosq or UHF hotends where the probe needs to be glued on with CA glue. The Y-offset for this probe is 4mm in front of the nozzle and the X-offset is 32mm. I strongly recommend removing the 3-pin header and soldering wires directly to the probe PCB. When installed the wires will route out from the back of the IR probe cover to then join with the hotend and fan wires. I have included a cover to allow a connector at the probe but the wire management will be less than ideal.. Assembly Instructions After pressing the status LED diffuser into place, install the right part-cooling fan first by feeding the wires through the small hole at the bottom. Then feed the wires for the status LED and hotend fan through before starting to push the LED carrier into position. Carefully push the status LED carrier as far as it will go and press the fan into position while making sure not to pinch the part-cooling fan wires. Then press the remaining LEDs into their slots. (I measure out 35mm of wire to connect these LEDs together) Here is another view also showing how the hotend fan wires fit through the hole on the side of the status LED carrier. Insert the second part-cooling fan and splice the wires together with the first fan. Install the hotend with at least two M2.5x6 screws (M3x6 for the Revo Voron). The heater cartridge should be installed away from the LEDs to avoid overheating them. ( ** don't forget the PTFE tube ) Pre-assemble the extruder pieces before installing into the shroud. Use M3x30 screws to attach motor_bridge. Install the extruder with an M3x6 BHCS on the back and then an M3x12 from below. Ensure the cables are routed as flat to the shroud as possible and secure them with zip ties. Install the strain_relief or cable_chain_mount with two M3x8 screws and the cable_door with another M3x8 screw. Close the cable door with an M3x6 screw. Use two M3x40 BHCS to secure the toolhead to the x-carriage in a V0.1/V0.2. For installation in a Trident or V2.4 use two M3x50 BHCS. Happy Printing!
  2. hey guys i am trying to install a lgx lite on a stealthburner and i cant seem to find a good source of video to help me out. can someone point me in the right direction?
  3. Version 1.0.0


    LGX_Lite_Stealthburner_CW2_style_mount LGX Lite extruder mount for the Voron Stealthburner. The standard bowden clip delivered with the LGX Lite is to be removed, and a standard UM2 connector has to be inserted in the top printed part. This style clip is to be used: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32896103430.html. If you're lucky you might have some laying around already. LGX Lite mount ERCF The ERCF version is made to accomodate the LGX Lite with the stealthburner and the new carriage, including the toolhead sensor as it is being used for the ERCF. The housing style is matching with the original CW2 design. I recommend to insert a 3mm long 4x2mm bowden tube on the bottom of the LGX Lite to guide the filament properly. The cover and cable carrier mount can be re-used from the original version. The top of the front body is made to insert the bowden tube until it reaches into the LGX Lite, through a standard bowden tube clip with retainer ring. A lever latch is designed to change the pretension on the filament. The toolhead sensor is a standard hall effect switch (AH3364Q-P-B), which can be soldered to some wires with a connector. This sensor enters in between both halves of the support body and can be fixed using an angled M3x8 DIN912 bolt. Please be careful not to overtighten this bolt as it clamps directly onto the sensor housing. A standard washer M3 is to be inserted in the slot centered with the filament path. The magnet can be inserted in the front. Be sure to check the correct polarity. To mount the LGX Lite to the body, use the 4 screws DIN912 M3x16mm, too long screws will damage the gears within the LGX! M3 Threaded insert locations In the front housing there are 2 threaded inserts M3 which needs to be placed on the 'inside' to fixate the actual Stealthburner cover to. In the rear housing there are 4 threaded inserts M3 to be placed on the back as shown in the image below. Cable hatch and cable carrier The standard cable door hatch and cable carrier support can be re-used from the original CW2. Be sure to mount the cable door before mounting the LGX Lite into the housing. You won't be able to reach the fastener once the LGX Lite is placed. I am not responsible in any way on how this impacts your printer. Use at your own risk.
  4. just found out about TEAM FDM Forums and Build diary. so this is day number 3 of my trident build. trident 300 x 300, voronkits.com, PIF, Fabreeko, HoneyBadger, BTT, Bondtech so as of tonight i have finished the frame, linear rail mounting, feet, steppers, x-gantry, and belts. motion system is in effect. i have checked racking, squared up every joint, squared the gantry, and tightened the belts. did want to mention that all the printed parts i received from Will @ PIF. the blue and black colors actually look pretty good together. im still in quite a bit of shock about how much the Voron community works together. i am off to continue my build , tonight is bed i believe. after this trident is done i will be building a Voron 0.1 so stay tuned. Ya'll Print Like a Pro
  5. Version 1.0.0


    Huvud cover for ABBN-30 with LGX Lite. You will need this Huvud mount
  6. Building my third voron 2.4 and won’t go into details but am trying out some mods, that I will write up my experiences about. lets start with the best part: Stealthburner with LGX Lite extruder I will send the link to the mod for this later, it’s not perfect but you can make it work without too much hassle. will describe the things that are not mentioned on GitHub so it may help someone. let me start by saying, if it prints as good as it feels, my future builds will all have this extruder.
  7. I recently decided to upgrade my V0.1 extruder to the LGX Lite, but I've run into a strange issue. I purchased the Bondtech mini after upgrade kit (https://www.bondtech.se/product/mini-after-lgx-lite-upgrade-kit-for-voron-v0/), but upon installation, I noticed that the hotend (Phaetus Dragon HF) positioning leaves the nozzle approx. 6mm further back than the original mini afterburner. Whenever I home the y axis, the nozzle sits behind the bed, and the nozzle cannot reach the front of the bed. I've tried to think of/find solutions for the issue, but all I can think of is changing the bed mounting system. Is this a common issue to have with the lgx lite and/or am I missing something?
  8. Formbot Trident Kit (minus rails, heater ,and board) Octopus Pro v1.0 Board Orbiter 2.0 Extruder Mellow Carbon Fiber X Axis Secondary Mean Well LRS150-48 150w 3.3A 48v PSU Fystec 5160qhv Stepper Drivers x2 for A/B Motors (For 48v) LDO 42STH48-25094AC Stepper Motors 2.5A Max for A/B KvP Steller Black ABS + KvP Banana Yellow ABS Accent + Paramount Deception Purple ABS Accent Polymaker PC-ABS Filament Blend for increased heat resistance for A/B motor mounts Fabreeko Edge to Edge Heater Fabreeko HoneyBadger Rails Printedsolid ACM Panels for Trident 3x Igus EGLM-05 Bearings to replace the GE5C Triangle Labs Rapido Hotend Bondtech CHT Nozzles 0.4mm - 1.0mm Titanium Extrusion Backers from Fabreeko Fystek 355x355 0.3mm Frosted PEI for back of Formbot Flexplate Mods: Klicky, Sexbolt, Rama's Better Front Idlers, Nevermore, AB ERCF 3.2 PCB, ADXL PCB, Steathburner, 270 degree door hinges Spacelab's Orbiter 2.0 Mount PiCam v2.1, FFC Mod (once its back in stock) ERCF 9 Color MMU from BlueRolls Ikea Lack Table I'm currently through page 62 of the Trident manual. This is my first time building a printer, and I only got into 3D printing in Nov 2021 (bought an Artillery Genius Pro). Been a lot of reading, watching, and geeking out. Hello Wisconsin!!! -OneStepAhead
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