About This File
This toolhead scales down the body of the Stealthburner to a size which fits into a V0.1. Fully assembled it weighs about 80 grams less than the original. It is designed around the Orbiter 1.5 extruder and has versions for the Phaetus Dragonfly, Dragon and Rapido HF hotends as well as versions for the Mosquito and the Revo Voron hotends. It incorporates a status LED as well as two for print visibility.
31 Jan 2023: I have added new stretched versions that should fit the Rapido UHF, Dragon UHF and the VolcoMosq hotends. The Dragon UHF and Rapido UHF hotends can fit in the same shroud. These hotends will reduce Z travel by 8.5mm. I cannot verify the fitment so if there are any issues please leave a comment.
It uses a pair of 4010 blowers which I found to produce slightly more airflow than a 5015 blower while being notably less noisy and drawing less current. The depth of these fans do limit Y travel by 3mm on a V0.1 while the door is closed and tophat is on. The width of the main body at its base is also a very tight fit at the extremes of X travel. I have raised my tophat by 20mm which gives the cabling and filament tube plenty of room to breathe.
I have also installed this on my Trident. The included files do not address cable management on a Trident or V2.4 but do provide mounting to the MGN12 carriage. The cable chain on a Trident or V2.4 would have to be moved back at least 5mm to clear the extruder stepper motor.
The part cooling ducts of the original file act as a simple air dump similar to the mini-Afterburner. The 'alt_ducts' version is based on the Stealthburner ducts and provides a more restrictive but targeted airflow. This seems to give better cooling but I have not done any meaningful testing yet.
The included Blender file shows the entire assembly complete with screws and should answer most basic questions.
Note on MGN-9 installation:
The default 2mm x 10 plastic threading screw is too long for mounting the x-axis endstop. An M2 x 8 does the job fine. For mounting to the linear carriage use four M3 x 6 flat-head screws.
After pressing the status LED diffuser into place, install the right part-cooling fan first by feeding the wires through the small hole at the bottom. Then feed the wires for the status LED and hotend fan through before starting to push the LED carrier into position.
Carefully push the status LED carrier as far as it will go and then carefully press the fan into position while making sure not to pinch the part-cooling fan wires.
Press the remaining LEDs into their slots. (I measure out 35mm of wire to connect these LEDs together)
Here is another view also showing where the hotend fan wires fit.
Insert the second part-cooling fan and splice the wires together with the first fan.
Install the hotend with at least two M2.5x6 screws. The heater cartridge should be installed away from the LEDs to avoid overheating them.
Gather the wires together and secure them with the first zip-tie.
(it helps to insert a snipped zip-tie through the the hole and yank it through with pliers to remove printing artifacts from inside of the channels)
Loop the wire bundle back around and add in the LED and hotend fan wires. Use two more zip-ties to secure everything in place. ENSURE to leave room for the extruder by lifting the loop of wires up and out of the way as shown. More space is much better than not enough. (Don't forget the PTFE tube)
Pre-assemble the extruder pieces before installing into the shroud. Use two M3x8 BHCS to install the Orbiter 1.5 extruder. It helps to have both screws in the Orbiter before putting it in place. Start the screw by the latch and then the blind screw should be easier to align.
Close the cable door with a M3x6 screw and screw in the extruder tensioning thumb screw.