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TeamFDM.com is an UNOFFICIAL companion site for the DIY Voron 3D printer community. For official docs and final source of truth, visit the Official Voron Discord or the Voron Github
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Welcome to TeamFDM.com
Welcome to TeamFDM.com, your premier destination for dedicated Voron support, guides, and discussions focused on the highly popular Voron 3D printers. As the largest Voron forum on the internet, we pride ourselves on being an independent resource for comprehensive tutorials and guides, providing an alternative to the Official Voron Discord or Official Voron Reddit.
Please note that we are not officially affiliated with or endorsed by the Voron Design team.TeamFDM.com is the perfect place for enthusiasts of all ages and skill levels to come together and explore the world of Voron Designed 3D Printers and accessories. Our thriving community, now over a year old, invites you to join us in welcoming fellow hobbyists as we work together to build, troubleshoot, and celebrate the incredible capabilities of Voron 3D printers.
Begin your Voron journey by visiting our forum (or bulletin board), where you can search for answers, ask questions, and receive support for your build. Discover the value of TeamFDM.com and the vibrant Voron community today!
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Latest Activities
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269
Milo V1.5 CNC Bench Mill - Water Cooled - Casa Enclosure
Jake England just posted a video of the ATC for the Milo.- selfsourced
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3
Control Multiple Printer From Klipperscreen
Hmm... That could be handy for my "headless" V0.2- 1
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2
Artillery X1s to Voron Franken-Trident
I found these two links for wiring and component mounting of the electronic bay. With this system, I can leave the bottom panel off! Grid System Wire Chase and Component Mounts -
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G_T's build log - trials of an insulated hotter Trident
Finally got back to this printer after a long absense. I got the preheater bed installed and it works. It doesn't put out as much heat as I'd wanted, though it does improve how long it takes this printer to get up to temp. But only by perhaps 20%. I think it will be more useful for adjusting chamber temp when running hot, and keeping less of a vertical temperature gradient in that situation. I have added the final layer of insulation into the top but only there. I wanted to see how much difference it made. The top used to get very hot but it is noticably cooler now. Less heat loss. I need to add insulation further down now. Tonight's testing I had the chamber temperature up to slightly over 85C then turned up the print head. I walked away for a bit and came back to find it had crashed. I had the bed near the max I'd set; ditto the print head. I suspect one tripped the shutdown. I bumped the temps a few degrees after this test. I had the printer hot for a couple hours, gradually ramping up the temp once above 80C since that's the highest I'd run it previously. Motion seems fine at the elevated temps. Next step is to add a little more insulation. I expect to get 90C chamber at least. It's about time for me to get some filament to test this range with. I'm not quite up to where I want to be to print CF-PEKK which I have, and above where I want to print anything else that I have on hand! Gerald PS - The modified Bento Box I posted about previously works extremely well as an internal filter. It will circulate the air and move it through the filter and filter media just fine. It is loud though. It has had a whole lot of use.- 1
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3
Control Multiple Printer From Klipperscreen
Yeah, my V2 and Trident are beside each other but I'm be I'm building a second Trident which only has the mini display so this will be handy for that printer.- 1
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