homing.cfg

@mvingtargt I use sensorless homing on both of my printers 2.4 and Trident. Little tricky to set up the sensitivity, but it works flawlessly once set up properly. Attached is my printer.cfg for my Trident connected to BTT Octopus I used the jumper as indicated in the manual. Hope this helps. printer.cfg

Some more info from AI: ############################################################################## One additional point that often gets overlooked is motor current. Before spending too much time tuning driver_SGTHRS, make sure your motor currents are set correctly. StallGuard is directly influenced by motor current, so changing the current after you’ve tuned sensorless homing will usually require you to retune the threshold. For a typical Voron 2.4 with TMC2209 drivers, I’d suggest starting with: [tmc2209 stepper_x] run_current: 0.85 stealthchop_threshold: 0 [tmc2209 stepper_y] run_current: 0.85 stealthchop_threshold: 0 If you’re running Kalico (which supports dedicated homing current settings), I’d also recommend reducing the motor current during homing: run_current: 0.85 home_current: 0.55 Using a lower homing current generally produces cleaner, more repeatable StallGuard detection. If you’re running standard Klipper, the Voron homing macros achieve a similar result by temporarily reducing the run current during the homing sequence before restoring it afterwards. The key point is to set your motor currents first, then tune driver_SGTHRS. If you change the current later, expect to retune your sensorless homing thresholds. If using LDO motors Many R2 kits use LDO 42STH48 motors. A good starting point is: Setting Value run_current 0.80–0.90 A homing_speed 40 mm/s SGTHRS 105–120 If using Moons motors Moons motors generally need slightly less sensitivity. Typical range: driver_SGTHRS = 90–110 Tuning guide If it crashes into the frame Increase sensitivity. Example: 110,115,120,125........ If it stops before touching the frame Sensitivity is too high. Decrease: 110, 105, 100, 95 If it homes inconsistently Usually not the SGTHRS. Check: belt tension carriage preload rail lubrication motor current pulley alignment Mechanical friction causes more sensorless homing issues than electronics. Homing current Many experienced Voron builders reduce current during homing. Typical values: Run current: 0.80A Home current: 0.50–0.60A Lower current makes the motor stall more cleanly and consistently. The Voron documentation’s homing macros reduce current during homing for this reason. Homing speed Avoid very fast homing. Values between 40 - 80 mm/s is commonly used. Faster isn’t more reliable StealthChop For sensorless homing: stealthchop_threshold: 0 ##################################################################################

I do not use sensorless homing myself, but I do use AI a lot. I formulated a question to AI and pasted your question as a quote. This is the answer I received. Hope this helps. PLEASE NOTE - THE ANSWER IS AI GENERATED, from the question posed. ################################################################################### I think the confusion comes from comparing two different sets of recommendations that were written with different assumptions. The Nitehawk configuration isn’t trying to override the Voron guide. The Nitehawk cfg provides working defaults for the hardware, whereas the Voron sensorless homing guide is a generic tuning procedure intended to work across a wide range of printers and driver configurations. A few points that may help: 1. driver_SGTHRS: 60 vs 255 This is probably the biggest source of confusion. The Voron guide starts with a very high driver_SGTHRS value (255) so that almost every machine will detect a stall. You then reduce the value until the axis homes reliably and finally settle on a value roughly in the middle of the reliable range. The Nitehawk configuration uses 60 as a reasonable default, not as a tuned value for every printer. It’s simply a starting point chosen by the configuration author. Neither value is “correct” for your printer. The correct value is the one you determine by tuning your machine. 2. homing_speed The Voron guide recommends reducing the homing speed (typically around 40 mm/s) because slower homing generally gives more consistent StallGuard detection. The Nitehawk example uses 100 mm/s, which may work perfectly on some machines, but it gives you less margin while you’re tuning. If you’re setting up sensorless homing for the first time, I’d follow the Voron recommendation and use a slower speed until everything is working reliably. You can always increase it later if you want. 3. homing_retract_dist For sensorless homing this should normally be: homing_retract_dist: 0 A second bump against the frame doesn’t improve accuracy and can actually make sensorless homing less reliable. I’d follow the Voron recommendation here. 4. diag_pin This one is hardware-specific and unrelated to tuning. Whether you use: diag_pin: ^PG6 or diag_pin: PG6 depends on the electrical design of the board. The Nitehawk configuration removes the pull-up (^) because that’s how the hardware is designed. This isn’t something I’d change just because another guide uses a different board. In general, use the board manufacturer’s recommended diag_pin configuration unless you have a specific reason to do otherwise. So which instructions should you follow? I’d combine them: Keep the Nitehawk hardware-specific settings (such as diag_pin). Follow the Voron sensorless homing tuning procedure. Treat driver_SGTHRS as something to tune, not something to copy. The exact number isn’t important. Whether your printer ends up at 48, 67, 105 or 118 depends on your motors, belt tension, rail preload, carriage friction, motor current and even ambient temperature. The goal isn’t to match someone else’s number—it’s to find the range where your printer homes reliably and consistently. One final point: make sure your motor current is set appropriately before tuning driver_SGTHRS. StallGuard behaviour changes with motor current, so if you tune the threshold and later change the run current, you’ll often need to retune the threshold as well. In short: Keep the Nitehawk-specific diag_pin. Set homing_retract_dist: 0. Start with a conservative homing speed (around 40 mm/s) while tuning. Don’t worry about matching someone else’s driver_SGTHRS value. The tuning process is far more important than the starting number. ###################################################################################

I've been through the discord, and searched through the forums, but couldn't find an answer, so here we go. I am working on getting my voron 2.4r2 up and running for the first time and trying to configure for sensorless homing while using the nitehawk SB. I started by using the guide for the nitehawk straight from LDO found here, which leads to the GitHub repository here. Those instructions involve creating a file called nitehawk-sb.cfg and then an [include] in the orignial printer.cfg file that points to it. The nitehawk-sb.cfg file makes some changes to the printer.cfg file for proper operation (which I'm all for!) However, when researching where to put the jumpers on my octopus to allow sensorless homing I came across this article on the Vorondesign.com page. That article clearly led me to which jumpers to use, but it also indicated that I have to make changes to the printer.cfg file or "..YOU WILL BE SAD." These change are "mostly" already put in by the nitehawk-sb.cfg file, but there are some notable differences. For example. The VoronDesign page says to: If you have a [safe_z_home] section, find it and comment it out as we will be using homing override as found in homing.cfg. Which I did, because the nitehawk instructions don't inherently cover sensorless homing, but then I get to the Stepper_X instructions in the VoronDesign (I'm using 2209 drivers) it says: Updating stepper_x Locate the [stepper_x] section Record the current value for endstop_pin (PG6 for example) Change the endstop_pin to tmc2209_stepper_x:virtual_endstop Change homing_speed to 80 Change homing_retract_dist to 0 Locate the [tmc2209 stepper_x] section (usually right below where you just edited) Add diag_pin to match what you recorded from step 2, but add a ^ before it. Example: diag_pin: ^PG6 Add this below the diag_pin entry: driver_SGTHRS: 255 pretty straight forward it would seem, except the nitehawk-sb.cfg already made some changes (basically steps 1-3) but it had set homing_speed to 100 and the homing_retract_dist to 5 (I updated my file to follow the vorondesign instructions). The nitehawk-sb.cfg file had already found and moved the diag_pin to read " diag_pin: PG6 " instead of " diag_pin: ^PG6 " and it has the value for driver_SGTHRS: 60 instead of 255 as in the VoronDesign instructions. Looking ahead to the rest of the instructions there are similar disparities. So..... now I've stopped. Does anyone have advice on which settings to use and why? Anyone that has a similar build/setup please move to the front of the line, but anyone that has good advice is welcome.