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About Me

Voron Serial #1

Voron Serial #2

Voron Serial #3

  1. Version 2022.04.06


    HEPA Filter Exhaust for Voron 1.x/2.x I've designed a new exhaust which uses a 120x120x25 mm fan and HEPA filters (compatible with MELEDEN, RIGOGLIOSO, JINPUS and LTLKY air purifiers). This is a direct replacement for the stock air exhaust system. Configured in Klipper to power the fan at 50%, and coupled with the nevermore micro, this seems to add to negative air pressure in the chamber and have a noticeable impact on reducing fumes, while only reducing chamber temperature by a couple of degrees C at the exhaust port. Bill of Materials New Parts 1x 120x120x25mm fan such as Noctua NF-F12 iPPC-2000. (note that I have an adjustable voltage on my control board, but make sure your fan matches the voltage for your system.) HEPA Filter such as Nispira True HEPA Filter Replacement with Activated Carbon Parts from Voron BOM Parts here are already listed in the Voron 1.x (Trident)
  2. Version 1.0.0


    StealthOrbiter This mod aims to mount the orbiter V2.0 extruder to the stealthburner assembly. In addition, it incorporates the Orbiter filament sensor to enable support for the ERCF. In addition, it also includes a canbus toolhead mount (BTT EBB36 board for now). If you would instead prefer to use a cable chain, spacelab_2021 has developed a cable chain mount that attaches to the back of the orbiter motor here: https://www.teamfdm.com/files/file/485-orbiter-2-clockwork-beta/ Development Roadmap 1)[COMPLETE] Initial release! 2)Add cable shroud. 3)Incorporate fan into cable shroud (cooling canbus toolhead stepper). 4)Design version of orbiter mount with cable chain attachment. Installation Instructions coming soon? Acknowledgments - spacelab_2021, for providing the starting point I used in developing this mod
  3. Version 2022.05.09


    Rear Umbilical Addon and Y Endstop Relocation BOM Pieces M3 Heatinsert 4x M3x10 SCHS 4x since my a/b motor mounts are MJF single pieces i needed a way to add umbilical compatibility without the need to reprint anything. so i designed this. its however heavily based on Selliot79's Design. i just designed it to be a bit smaller, to fit a IGUS CF5.05.18 perfectly and moved the mountings to the rear, so theres space for a Y Endstop relocation
  4. Version 2022.05.09


    Horseshoe Spool Holder This is a method to mount the filament spool inside the enclosure of a Voron Trident 3d printer, or outside a V0, V1 or V2 printer. It works with 200mm, 1kg spools only. For mounting internally in the Trident, the ptfe tube is installed as shown: up through the gap in the side of the rear extrusion. Alternately you could drill a 4mm hole though the B stepper mount top and bottom parts. To install the spool: Feed the filament through the ptfe first, then align the spool into the front and top bearing rings, and pull forward to spring the frame and drop into the rear bearing ring. BOM: 3 608 bearings (any type) 2 M5-8mm (pan/socket) head bolts and 2 M5-Tnuts for 2020 extrusion only OR 4 M3-8mm (pan/socket) head bolts and 4 M3-Tnuts for 1515 extrusion 3 - M3-8mm bolts (pan/socket) Internal Version for Trident only Print PlasticBolt(x3) and use a m3-8mm PH or SH bolt to secure the pin in place. External version for V0, V1, V2 Print ShortPlasticBolt(3x) and use a m3-8mm PH or SH bolt to secure the pin in place. Please provide feedback for issues/suggestions to #Logan2225 on VoronDesign Discord. Thanks!
  5. Version 2021.10.01


    Orbiter Clockwork Module This Clockwork module allows the use of the Orbiter v1.5 Extruder in the Voron Afterburner. Features One of the main issues I observed when using the orbiter was a lack of a quick filament release in addition to a lack of a suitable clockwork adapter that would swap an orbiter directly into the Afterburner ecosystem. Many of the issues observed were addressed with this Clockwork Module. This version provides a chain anchor for the Voron 2.4 and the Switchwire, a Cable Cover, and a quick filament release lever. Bill of Materials (BOM) Quantity Name Type 1 Orbiter v1.5 Extruder Orbiter Thingiverse link Hardware 9 M3 Heat Set Inserts McMaster Link Hardware 94180A331 or suitable inserts (Thread Pitch 0.5, Installed Length 3.8mm, Diameter ~5mm) 1 M3x8mm SHCS Hardware 1 M3x16 SHCS Hardware 2 M3x20 SHCS Hardware 1 PTFE 45mm (Dragon) Hardware 1 Clockwork Adaptor - Front Printable 1 Clockwork Adaptor - Back Printable 1 Cable/Connector Cover Printable 1 Filament Quick Release Printable 1 Chain Anchor (Version for Voron 1.8/Trident/2.4 and Switchwire) Printable Assembly Guide Orbiter Clockwork Assembly Guide Orbiter Clockwork Module Images Release History Version 1.0 Orbiter Clockwork Adaptor has been verified to fit and function on a Voron 2.4 and a Switchwire. Additional testing may be required to fix any minor or major issues that are identified in the future. If you observed any issues, please create an issue so it can be tracked.
  6. Version 2021.10.09


    Afterburner LGX Useful links, info, and models for using the The LGX™ Large Gears eXtruder with Afterburner... Afterburner LGX Mounts Klipper config Extra LGX Models LGX Cable Cover LGX Gear Cover LGX Lever Cover Afterburner LGX Mounts Mounting the LXG to AfterBurner requires some additional mounting plates. You will need both of @Nemgrea's mounts from Discord: lgx_AftB_Mount_Front.STL (Discord file link) lgx_AftB_Mount_Rear.STL (Discord file link) These models are pinned in the #voronuser_mods channel on Discord, and can be found in this message. Thanks to @Nemgrea V2.199 V0.000 and the crew for their efforts designing and testing the mounts, and offering them to the community. Aside: For my own build, I found that my third-party M3x20 screws had a large enough head that the toolhead couldn't mount to the X Carriage assembly properly without a bit more clearance. If you find yourself in this situation, this mod of @Nemgrea's mount is nearly identical to the one on Discord but with slightly more clearance for the bottom screws. Please try the (semi)official one first before using this mod Klipper config Bondtech has some official documentation for configuring Klipper here. Below is the configuration I am currently running. rotation_distance: 8 microsteps: 16 full_steps_per_rotation: 200 # use either # gear_ratio: 44:14, 37:17 # rotation_distance: 55 # or # rotation_distance: 8 # but not both! The either...or warning is not from Bondtech, but provided here to honor the memory and sacrifice of my first hotend and save those that may come after from suffering the same fate... Extra LGX Models LGX Cable Cover Besides the mounting parts, most people end up asking about a cable cover. There are a few posted around Discord, but after seeing Craxoor's PCB cover I designed a similar cover from scratch for use with the LGX. Note that this cover does not work with the toolhead PCB - it just looks similar. lgx-cable-cover.stl (Cereal not included) LGX Gear Cover A little cover for the Large Gears on the LGX so it doesn't chew through the fan wires. lgx-gear-cover.stl LGX Lever Cover Drop-in replacement for the filament pre-tension lever, in case you want a different color: lgx-lever-cover.stl
  7. Version 2022.03.31


    Orbiter 2 Clockwork Module (beta) This Clockwork module allows the use of the Orbiter v2 Extruder in the Voron Afterburner. THIS IS A PRE-RELEASE - DO NOT DOWNLOAD UNLESS YOU ARE WILLING TO DEAL WITH POSSIBLE ISSUE OR TO GIVE FEEDBACK! The rear screws that hold the chain anchor on are m3x8, two of them. They use the Voron heat set inserts, m3 I was working with DoubleT on the PCB holder. Trying to build a universal tool version so we could use different holders.
  8. I am not affiliated with SchmidtProto in any way and am giving my honest feedback and review. FFC stands for "Flexible Flat Cables" I just received my Voron FFC Mod parts in the mail 4 days after ordering it, and I am excited to get use this on my Fystec kit opposed to using the included drag chains. The PCB appear to be super high quality and came package neatly and safely in separate packaging in a sturdy shipping box. I am really interested in how this works for a few reasons, obviously weight and wear will be different opposed to the standard umbilical, but also because I have a Dremel3D45 that has over 500 hours and it too uses FFC. Seller's FAQ With the recent release of Voron Trident, will this kit be compatible? Yes, this kit will work with the Trident just as well as the 2.4. Does this kit come with a 'Toolhead' PCB? Yes, this is intrinsic to the mod. There are 3 PCBs total. One at the Z/Y axis junction, one at the X/Y axis and one at the Toolhead. The toolhead PCB can be directly soldered to or used with 0.1" header pins/connectors. Do I need reflow or special soldering equipment? No, soldering is all through hole and any standard iron with a conical tip will work great. If you are interested, I was able t purchase the item straight from SchmidtProto. https://www.schmidtproto.com/shop
  9. Version 2021.09.22


    AB-BN-30 This mod is my latest iteration on improving the afterburner hotend. The naming convention is not hard: AfterBurner BadNoob version 30 Disclaimer: It is your printer. If you do this and something breaks or if someone gets hurt, it is fully your responsibility. I take no responsibility. Special thanks I want to say Thank You to the Voron design team. I've really enjoyed learning from you. Thank you for sharing your files, criticism, advice, and support. Additional thanks to Yellowfish, Long, Greg3D and all the fearless people that took time to help me along the way. BOM This is replacement to the stock afterburner, the required screws are ones you will just reuse from your existing afterburner. The main thing you will need to purchase is a 5015 blower fan. You will then have to mutilate the fan by cutting off the mounting ears. If this seems daunting to you, stop now. *Optional de-earing tool ("dearing tool") 1 M3x0.5 heat set insert 1 M3x0.5x16 SHCS For the mod itself: 4x M3x0.5 heat set inserts The usual screws used in Afterburner 2.4 1 5015 blower fan (Sunon's 12volt MF50151VX-B00U-A99, SanAce B52, or Delta BFB0524HH 24v fan are recommended) Note that sunon specifically states to NOT PWM this fan. I have been doing so for months and 10's of kilograms of pushed plastic without issue, but its important to state here. for fan advice, look for a fan with a high static head (above .7 inches H2O) and a high max flow (5 CFM ) The SoundOriginal 24v fans from Amazon also appear to do well. The following fans have been tested but are not as good in this application. they may work OK for abs, but not PLA or high speed abs: Sunon MF50152V1 (the last digit here is "speed" and 1 is a much lower speed than the MF50151VX Winsinn Hondaly Mechatronics What does it do, and why should I do this mod? This version of the afterburner fan and duct is a drop in replacement to the spec 2.4 and 1.8 afterburners. It replaces the 4020 blower with a far more powerful 5015 blower. Compared to the spec 2.4 afterburner, v24 improves the following: * Better part cooling for both ABS and PLA filaments * Fewer jams caused by heat creep * Very resistant to melting ducts * Better left-right balance * Cleaner airflow for better overhangs CHANGE Log Added support for Zodiac BMO and BMS Removed support for Slice. Added step file for AB-BN-30 Added support for Phaetus BMS and Phaetus BMO hotend Release to VoronUsers In AB BN 28 and 29, we moved to a single piece front. This has a few advantages, but it appears there may be an issue causing hotend fan failures by stressing the 4010 fan at a weak point in its housing. The issue is fixed in AB-BN-30_fan_front.stl\ I also made some slight changes to focus the part cooling flow for the dragon toolhead only. I didn't see much difference from this, so I did not migrate these changes to Mosquito or E3DV6. I just did AB-BN-xx!...why should I move to the current version? If you are using AB-BN-28 or 29, I recommend you update the fan front piece. Performance wise, ab-bn-25 is nearly identical to -30, but there are some changes. Compared to the version (AB-BN-25): Better wire management Single piece front is stiffer 4010 moved slightly to make it easier to remove hotend without removing fans Better fit (fixed the spacer to 6.6 mm) Fixed the back of the mosquito hotend. Changes made since -25 by part: Fan_front- 100%redo from -25. improved printability, standardized walls at 1.2 mm or greater. visually redone to eliminate "intake duct" or "kenny" appearance. Incorporated 4010 fan into a single piece unit. lower half matched to the hotend-front profile. fixed issue in 28,29 with 4010 fan carrier. Fan_back- 100% redo from -25. changed tabs to fit with the front. Spring- reduced size to fit Spacer-reduced thickness to 6.6mm Hotend-E3Dv6-front, Hotend-Dragon-front, Hotend-Mos-front: Reduced and adjusted stator to flow better with relocated 4010 fan, thickened walls at important points. Hotend-E3D-Dragon-back- NO CHANGES FROM -25 Hotend-Mos-back- adjusted to line up with Mos-front better. Print Settings: I use the standard Voron print settings, but with 30% infill. I have gone as low as 0% on the hotend_front, these parts don't get a lot of stress. I also use Hilbert curve for top and bottom patterns. ABS is recommended, but these have been printed in ABS+ and PETG as well: 0.4 mm Nozzle 0.2 mm layer height 30% infill no supports 4 vertical shells 5 solid layers top and bottom What files need to be printed? Everyone will need: AB-BN-30_fan_front.stl AB-BN-30_fan_back.stl AB-BN-28_spring.stl AB-BN-28_spacer.stl Depending on your hotend you will need: Phaetus BMS: AB-BN-30_Hotend-Phaetus_BMS-front.stl AB-BN-30_Hotend-Phaetus_BMS-back.stl Phaetus BMO: AB-BN-30_Hotend-Phaetus_BMO-front.stl AB-BN-30_Hotend-Phaetus_BMO-back.stl Zodiac BMS: AB-BN-30_Hotend-Zodiac_BMS-front.stl AB-BN-30_Hotend-Zodiac_BMS-back.stl Zodiac BMO: AB-BN-30_Hotend-Zodiac_BMO-front.stl AB-BN-30_Hotend-Zodiac_BMO-back.stl E3DV6: AB-BN-28_Hotend-E3Dv6-front.stl AB-BN-28_Hotend-E3Dv6-back.stl Dragon (high flow and regular): AB-BN-30_Hotend-Dragon-front.stl AB-BN-28_Hotend-Dragon-back.stl Mosquito (high flow and regular): ANNOUNCEMENT I no longer support the hotends from Slice Engineering. I find their business practices to be inconsistent with my philosophy. It makes no sense for me to put time and effort into designing a toolhead so that they can get a better price for their overreaching patent claims. My designs are all open source. Slice is free to take them and adapt them their own damn selves, but I'm not lifting another finger to help them. Assembly: This is the fan after modification Step 1: Cut the ears off the 5015 fan. In order to fit, you must cut the ears (mounting tabs) off the 5015 fan, and take off the top cover. The ears can be cut with diagonal clippers, hacksaw, bread knife, belt sander...whatever you have at hand. Just make it look like the image above. If you cut too much it's probably fine, as long as you don't damage the turbine. I have included stls for an optional de-earing tool (5015-deearing-tool and 5015-deearing-tool-b). The tool is meant as a handle and guide to saw off the ears. The tool fits around the ear and its edge can be used as a saw guide to cut the mounting ear off. Step 2: Fan test fit. The fan fits into AB-BN-30_fan_front. We have learned that different "5015" fans have very different shapes. AB-BN is designed to allow for adjustment for your fan. Here's how: Test fit the fan in AB-BN-30_fan_front. Looking at it from the front, move the fan around to center the turbine blades. You may need to trim your fan housing a little more. Once the fan is centered, turn this over and note where you need to add shims between AB-BN-30_fan_front and the fan. To shim this I recommend vhb tape. Step 3: Spring THEN Fan Once you have your shims in the right spots, remove the fan and install the printed leaf spring (AB-BN-28_spring) into fan front. The little circle tab should be cut off, it's an integral print support only. Don't forget to remove the integral print support Insert fan into 5015 front and secure with fan spring. The spring bends back to hold the fan in place. Step 4: Insert the 4010 fan in the AB-BN-30_fan_front. This is a tight fit by design. Step 5: Carefully route the wires, they will exit the 5015 back. tip: use a dab of hotglue on the fan housing to secure the wires to the fan housing fans wiring Step 6: Insert the tabs from the AB-BN-30_fan_back into the front and take the wires out through the cutout. mounting the fan spacer between extruder and fan assy Step 7: Assemble with the spacer as shown and secure to the extruder body. excess wire may be stored in the spacer Assemble the hotend as usual. ENJOY! Please drop me a DM if you find this mod useful or you have an idea to change.
  10. Version 2022.05.19


    Toolhead PCB To CAN Mounting Adaptor Simple mount to convert Afterburner Toolhead Board mount spacing to the spacing for popular CAN toolhead boards like Huvud and FLY-SHT42. The assumption is that you have created an evenly spaced pair of holes to mount to with spacing for the afterburner toolhead PCB (version 4.0 and below). For example, on my 2.4 with a Galileo Stealthburner I am using hartk's Galileo Body. If you need spacers, they should be easy enough to create in Tinkercad or just by overlaying cylinders in your slicer. BOM 4x M3 Heat Sets (Standard Voron Spec) 2x M3x6 BHCS to mount through to PCB holes 4x M3x6 SHCS for board mounting (or whatever is suitable for your board)
  11. Version 2022.05.23


    20x20mm, slot 6 Profile Covers Please find here my mod for variable profile covers for 20x20 construction profiles with 6mm slot. Printing Printing successful with standard VORON settings. For adjusting the length of the profiles you can scale the *.stl file in your slicer in y-direction after import and before positioning (rotating/placement) on your print bed. Please find the following example on how to do so for SuperSlicer: Sequence: Deactivate linked scaling with click on lock symbol, Lock symbol status (
  12. Version 2022.05.21


    MKS CANable Pro DIN rail mount This mod is to mount the MKS CANable Pro to a standard 35mm DIN rail. The CANable Pro is held from moving along its longest axis by the 4 locating pins and held onto the mount by a clip over the CAN transceiver holding it in place. The board can only mount one way due to the header pins and for any doubt the output directions are labelled on the mount. To print you need canable_pro_clip.stl canable_pro_mount.stl pcb_din_clip.stl (credits to the Voron team for making this) And 2*M2x10 self tapping screws or if you don't want one of the screws poking out a shorter one (5-7mm) or just cut the end off with snips. To assemble, screw the mount onto the PCB DIN clip and then place the board on the mount with the outputs aligned in direction shown on the mount. It should sit flush as shown below and then the clip slips over the top and locates into 2 small indents. Enjoy! Thanks to @Micko SE
  13. Version 2022.06.05


    LGX Lite CAN Side Mount (Huvud/SHT42) Side mount for CAN toolhead boards with NEMA 17 sizes such as Huvud and FLY-SHT42. You will need two M3 square nuts that should have come with the LGX Lite to put into the side holes for mounting. I am using this on my Voron 2.4 with Mrgl-Mrgl's LGX Lite Mount for the extruder. BOM 4x M3 Square Nuts (Included with LGX Lite) 4x M3 Heat Sets (Standard Voron Spec) 2x M3x6 BHCS to mount through to LGX Lite holes 4x M3x6 SHCS for board mounting (or whatever is suitable for your board)
  14. Version 2022.05.03


    Stealthburner Clockwork1 PCB Cover I designed a cover for users who are still rocking the CW1 with Stealthburner, with the same low-poly esthetic of stealthburner. This cover is a snug fit, so please make sure your wiring is all nice and tidy or you could have some issues.
  15. Version 2022.04.03


    Important Notes Hello everyone, Here is my C920 camera mod, please follow the disassembly guide below to remove the current mount off the camera. Please keep the 4 bottom screws from the mount as you will need them for my mod. Instructions For Disassembly Found Here! This mod allows you to set 2 point position for your camera, BOM Qty Item 2 M3x40mm 1 M3x10mm 2 Nuts 1 M3 Hammerhead nut https://camo.githubusercontent.com/758a4b22a5c56662c568b7ffb24373659bc0266bcc721e882b16ef4f2bb51f16/68747470733a2f2f7777772e70617970616c6f626a656374732e636f6d2f656e5f55532f692f62746e2f62746e5f646f6e6174655f4c472e676966
  16. Version 2022.04.03


    Voron Afterburner Turbo Mod This is a purely cosmetic mod for the Afterburner to bring it's appearance closer to Stealthburner. After having seen Stealthburner, Afterburner's design started to look a little dated to me. So I designed this mod. It simply replaces both of Afterburner's front parts with a single part. The only new hardware required are two shorter screws. BOM Item Qty. Note SHCS M3x20 2 Replace two SHCS M3x30 Images
  17. Version 2022.04.07


    Voron-Mods Mounting tray for the Klipper Expander Board. I didn't care for the other 2 mounts i tried. Requires 2 M3 x 6mm screws. There are 2 versions of this mount. 1: Only has a logo on the back for use with VHB tape 2: Has logo and 4 M3 countersunk holes for bhcs for mounting on rails
  18. Version 2022.04.04


    Overview Scrubby is a filament dust scrubber that prevents any dust from reaching your nozzle and burning, causing partial clogs. My nozzle was clogging regularly and I decided to test a dust scrubber, and I have not had another clog for a very long time, so I thought I would make this design public in case someone else can benefit. Materials needed 8x 6x3 Neodynium Magnets Any cheap, sponge-like material (I cut up part of a scotchbrite kitchen sponge) 2x Scrubby.stl Note: I tested the tolerances in ABS. Due to shrinkage, other filament may make a slightly larger hole. Assembly Assembly is quite simple; press fit or super glue the magnets into each hole, carefully paying attention to polarity. Cut up your chosen spongy material and fit it into each scrubby half. Place your scrubby halves together, sandwiching the filament between the halves. You want enough sponge to get a nice drag on the filament to make sure it cleans it as best as possible. I put mine right against the bowden retainer, shown in the picture above. Notes I included the solidworks part file and the step file in case anyone wants to modify. Make sure to clean the dust it filters off somewhat regularly. It pulls a suprising amount off. Please message me on discord if you have any questions. Happy clog-free printing!
  19. Version 2022.04.06


    Just another DIN Rail bracket for BTT Octopus board This is an alternative DIN Rail bracket for Bigtreetech Octopus boards (Normal and Pro-HV), posted this way back in Voron Discord just never uploaded it to VoronUser Mods Use either 2 of the old style Voron 2.4(r1) r1_pcb_din_clips. or 2of the new trident/r2 ones r2_pcb_din_clips. Octopus board can be secured to those bracket with M3 screw, without nuts, just gently screw them in as its ah just plastic fitting! I've also made ah simple Version of the bracket, initially even before the octopus limbs Version, as there where no bracketavailable as i got my Octopus board... There are also the SVG Files of the Octopus Logo i created, from what i used to extrude the Bracket in Fusion360 STL: Octopus limb bracket STL Simple bracket STL
  20. Version 2022.04.08


    Why? If you are building Voron 300mm2 or 350mm2, V2.4 or Trident, you will soon discover you need a larger/deeper desk to accomodate your new machine, also if you have 5.5 or larger display mod you will end up with the printer being backed up against the wall and not enough space for the spool holder. After encountering the problem i've started messing with different designns that would provide stable, easily accessible place for the filament spool while keeping the filament path as short as possible. Print All parts are printed without supports. Recommended material is ABS/ASA but PETG or even PLA can be used as well. Frame extrusions get hot during long prints under enclosure so be carefull with PLA. Recommended perimeter count is 4 and 5 top/bottom layers with infil from 20% . All parts in STL already have correct orientation, just import and print. STL File naming: Classic__part_name.stl - Parts for Classic Voron spool holder design BB__part_name.stl - Ball Bearing Version parts Versions: 1. Ball Bearing Version 2. Classic Voron type spool holder Ball Bearing Version This version uses 100mm x 8mm rod for spool core mounting. Provides very smooth motion and virtually no resitatnce to the spool motion. The downside of this design is that the spool can free sping and cause the filament to jump off the spool and entangle.Since my printer is very close to the wall the wall itself servers as a resistance to the filament and prevents any free spinning and filament slipping off the spool. Ball Bearing version - BOM S-F-608-ZZ Bearings 1x 10mm x 8mm steel rod with cut internal M4 threads on both ends (easy to find on any mechatronics shop and easy to DIY) 10 M5x10 BHCS 4x M5x16 BHCS 4x M5 Hex Nut Classic Voron type spool holder This version uses classic Voron spool holder design adopted to fit the spool holder arm. This design is recommended as it greatly reduces/eliminates the risk of free spinning of the spool and filament slipping over the spool. This version is also simpler/easier and cheaper to make. Ball Bearing version - BOM 8 M5x10 BHCS 4x M5x16 BHCS 5x M5 Hex Nut 1x M5x30 BHCS 2x 105mm PTFE (4mm OD)
  21. Version 2022.04.01


    MKS Mosfet Mount A mount for a BIQU116-A2 MKS Mosfet based on the Trident Raspberry Pi mount. Use an extra pcb_din_clip_v2 to fix it to the DIN rail.
  22. Version 2022.03.31


    Microswitch probe with magnetic attachment, primarily aimed at CoreXY 3d printers with a focus on the Voron printers, should work on other printers with the variable mount. The objectives for this project are: drop in replacement for Omron TL-Q5MC2 or PL-08N2 (you don't need to replace the toolhead) easier and faster to build than similar probe types does not require soldering fixed probe dock mount (for the printers that are suported), less variables to adjust be able to detect all the print surfaces be as close to the hotend tip as possible highly repeatable and accurate probes less temperature variations no melting of its parts cheap to build It can also be used with the new automatic Z calibration klipper plugin to effectively calculate the Z offset from the probe and from the Z endstop. The inspiration for the Klicky Probe comes from the Annex magprobe and the Euclid probe, it uses some concepts from each of the projects. There is no need for supports, recommended settings are 4 perimeters/top/bottom, 13% infill. The probe dock is mounted on the gantry, allowing it to be used as a Z endstop if desired (I use it that way). There are three gantry extrusion mounts possible: one fixed to be used on the Voron V2.4 or V1.8 AB with MGN12 or MGN9 - one that has some variance for other toolheads - one fixed sidemount dock to allow a purge/scrub bucket on the left side of the bed The fixed gantry extrusion mounts have been confirmed to work on the Voron V2.4 and V1.8 The normal magnet installation is that the two magnets that attach to the microswitch are installed with the same polarity, the 3rd magnet should have the inverse polarity. There is however the possibility that the magnets will demagnetize over time due to the alternating magnetic fields thay may result in a slow but sure demagnetization of the magnets, the magnets are so strong that may take a long time to show the effects of demagnetization YMMV. No soldering is necessary, the probe microswitch connectors are also press-fit on the magnets. The AB mount wires are also connected with pressure from the magnets, you can use the probe magnets as a template to insert the AB mount magnets, it is easier that way to don't insert the magnets the wrong way. You will not lose Y travel on any configuration in the tests that were done. It is also recommended to glue the magnets in place, superglue is good. You will need to add macros to Klipper to be able to dock and undock the probe as necessary to do the Endstop (if necessary) and Quad Gantry Level, it is in the Klipper Macro directory. Probe BOM: 1x microswitch (the omron D2F-5 or D2F-5L (removing the lever) is recommended) 2x M2x10 self tapping 4x 6x3 magnets AB mount BOM: 3x 6x3 magnets Probe Dock: 1x 6x3 magnets 2x M3x20 Fixed Dock mount: 2x M3 threaded insert M3x5x4 2x M5x10 2x M5 t-nut or equivalent or variable Dock mount: 10x M3 threaded insert M3x5x4 8x M3x8 2x M5x10 2x M5 t-nut or equivalent If you would like to check a possibly more uptodate repository, check here The macro is based on a version provided by the user garrettwp on Discord, many thanks to him. I have tweaked it a lot. It is also originally based on the great Annex magnet dockable probe macros "#Originally developed by Mental, modified for better use on K-series printers by RyanG and Trails" and can be found here Would also like to thank the Voron discord community and VoronDesign for all the work that was and still is being made to maintain the Voron ecosystem. The probe accuracy output is something like this: probe accuracy results: maximum 6.430000, minimum 6.426250, range 0.003750, average 6.428750, median 6.428750, standard deviation 0.000791 There is now an arrow on the probe telling you where should the switch pole be to have the correct offset. The probe offsets are: z_offset = 6.42 x_offset: 0 y_offset: 19.75 Assembled Klicky Probe Dock and undock video It is working very well, if you decide to use it, give me feedback, either here, or on discord, my discord user is JosAr#0517. By standing on the shoulders of giants, let's see if we can see further.
  23. Version 2022.03.16


    LRS Screw Terminal Cover Designed to cover the screw terminals for several LRS style PSUs. Other Meanwell PSU may work. Feel free to ping me in discord to add to the compatibility list below. Pro tip: These are very snug to the point it will bow. This is intentional as it was designed to take some effort to take off. Printing Default voron settings No supports needed Compatibility List LRS-50 LRS-200
  24. Version 2021.12.16


    RefillPlease Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to build a simple yet cool looking filament runout sensor for your Voron printer. As always, should you or any of your printers be hurt in the process, the Secretary and myself will disavow any knowledge of your actions. This readme will not self-destruct in five seconds, cause we're not on TV. Good luck. BOM This part is designed to replace the stock bowden tube holder, so you can reuse the M3x8 SHCS and the M3 Hammer Head T nut. You will need : 1 x micro switch (body : 20x6x10mm) with a lever (search for 'SPDT 5A, 125V 250V 29mm') 1 x JST 2 pins female connector 4 x M2x10 self tapping screws two piece of wire (30mm length each) And some tools : pair of pliers small Philips screwdriver soldering iron a multimeter (optional, but it makes you look smart when using it) What does it do, and why should I do this mod? It is a drop in replacement for the stock bowden tube holder with the benefits of being a filament runout sensor. So you know, it will mainly tell you when your printer need a refill (hence the name). Print Settings: Standard Voron print settings are fine, ABS (but PLA or PETG are fine too since it will not stand in the enclosure). 0.4 mm Nozzle 0.2 mm layer height 30% infill no supports 4 vertical shells 5 solid layers top and bottom What files need to be printed? Select the _right parts if you want to put the filament sensor on the right of the printer, _left parts otherwise (when you stand in front of the printer). You'll need: [a]_core__(left/right).stl cover_(left/right).stl Assembly: Step 1: Take a refill of coffee Step 2: Bring out your inner artist\ Using your pliers, try to form the lever to look like the picture (cut the lever if needed).\ You may have to adjust the lever shape and length after trying to insert the filament so the switch is depressed each time the filament is inserted. Step 3: Prepare the electronics\ Put the micro switch and the JST connector in the Core part Be careful: the switch lever must go UP / in the oposite direction of the JST connector location. the JST connector notched face should go directly on the core part (you should see a matching notch) Use this as a template to cut the piece of wires to the correct length.\ Strip the wire with pliers. Step 4: Soldering\ Tin plate the JST pins and the wires.\ You could use the printed part as a support when soldering the wires, but be carefull not to go too close to the plastic parts\ Solder according to the picture Step 5: Testing\ Using the multimeter in continuity mode, be sure that the current is going through when the switch is depressed. Step 6: Close everything\ Put the cover on using the M2x10 self tapping screws, but let the top ones loose.\ Insert the PTFE tubes on each sides, and tighten the screws to block everything in place. Software Sample configuration for Klipper can be found in the /klipper directory. To use it, add the file filament_runout_detection.cfg from your UI and load it in your printer.cfg file using the following directive : [include filament_runout_detection.cfg]. Adapt the switch_pin according to your mcu configuration (sample file is for an Octopus mcu). The sample config come with a M600 filament change macro provided by VintageGriffin on Discord.
  25. Version 2022.03.19


    RGB LED grid for the Stealthburner (a.k.a. Rainbow Barf Logo LED) This PCB, created in KiCad 6.0, is a collaboration between me and tanaes (a.k.a. whoppingpochard). It's a RBG 8× LED grid to be used on the logo of the Voron Stealthburner, to give the user more animation options than a single, boring RGB LED. Important note: this PCB uses 2.0mm × 2.0mm WS2812B RGB LEDs, they should not be used with RGBW LEDs in the same chain unless you know what are you doing, as they use different data protocols. The usage is possible, but it isn't straightforward. There is information that a workaround for mixing RGB and RGBW LEDs is being developed at the Klipper-led_effect repository, which is what whoppingpochard and I recommend for controlling this board. Updates January 16th, 2022: Initial release. February 18th, 2022: added link for whoppingpochard's Rainbow Barf's repository, and info about Klipper-led-effect developing a solution for mixing RGB and RGBW LEDs. There are little cosmetic differences between that version and the one I've uploaded here, nothing that will change the way it works. Choose whatever suits you better. March 17th, 2022: added the KiCad version that was used to design the PCB.
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