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  1. Hi, as the title suggests, this is going to take a while. I don't have spare money laying around so a kit is out of the question. I'm going to source everything myself. This is actually something I like doing. So, the actual build state is as follows : I bought the extrusions (In Poland, great quality and price) and am now in the process of tapping and drilling. Not very exciting I'm afraid, although I did design and print a few very simple jigs for drilling holes. I have no experience in printing ABS, always having printed in PLA and PETG. I tried with an enclosure for my trusted Ender 3 but hated the smell and the results were below par. So I decided to take advantage of the Voron PIF program, but since this is a slow build anyways I'll wait till the Stealthburner is officially the goto toolhead. As soon as the screws arrive from Ali I'll start assembling the frame.
  2. Version 2022.03.16

    269 downloads

    LRS Screw Terminal Cover Designed to cover the screw terminals for several LRS style PSUs. Other Meanwell PSU may work. Feel free to ping me in discord to add to the compatibility list below. Pro tip: These are very snug to the point it will bow. This is intentional as it was designed to take some effort to take off. Printing Default voron settings No supports needed Compatibility List LRS-50 LRS-200
  3. Version 1.1.0

    2,431 downloads

    This toolhead scales down the body of the Stealthburner to a size which fits into a V0.1. Fully assembled it weighs about 120 grams less than the original. It is designed around the Bondtech LGX Lite extruder and has versions for the Phaetus Dragonfly, Dragon and Rapido HF hotends as well as a version to fit the Revo Voron hotend. It incorporates a status LED as well as two for print visibility. 22 Nov 2022: I have added new versions that should fit the Mosquito hotend. I cannot verify the fitment so if there are any issues please leave a comment. It uses a pair of 4010 blowers which I found to produce slightly more airflow than a 5015 blower while being notably less noisy and drawing less current. The depth of these fans do limit Y travel by 3mm on a V0.1 while the door is closed and tophat is on. The width of the main body at its base is also a very tight fit at the extremes of X travel. The shroud fits a 3007 hotend fan. The part cooling ducts of the original file act as a simple air dump similar to the mini-Afterburner. The 'alt_ducts' version is based on the Stealthburner ducts and provides a more restrictive but targeted airflow. This seems to give better cooling but I have not done any meaningful testing yet. This LGX Lite mini-stlb fits well in a V2.4 or Trident as the motor doesn't interfere with the path of the cable chain. There is a seperate 'strain_relief' stl for use in the V0.1. I have included a magnet mount and additional shroud .stl files to make this compatible with the ZeroClick mod. The included Blender file shows the entire assembly complete with screws and should answer most basic questions. Note on MGN-9 installation: The default 2mm x 10 plastic threading screw is too long for mounting the x-axis endstop. An M2 x 8 does the job fine. For mounting to the linear carriage use four M3 x 6 flat-head screws. Note: The MGN carriage shown is an MGN-9H, not the shorter MGN-9C used in the V0.1 mod. Preparation I recommend test fitting the extruder, LGX_lite_adapter_plate, PTFE tube and hotend into the shroud before running any wires to ensure that the PTFE tube length is correct and everything fits. It helps to chamfer the edge of the tube with a sharp blade so that it doesn't snag in the hotend. All three fans will need the wire retention piece clipped so the wires fit into the shroud channels easier. Use a small file to smooth out the break-off edges of the LED PCB and make sure the LED pockets are clear of 'droopy bits' Assembly Instructions After pressing the status LED diffuser into place, install the right part-cooling fan first by feeding the wires through the small hole at the bottom. Then feed the wires for the status LED and hotend fan through before starting to push the LED carrier into position. Carefully push the status LED carrier as far as it will go and then carefully press the fan into position while making sure not to pinch the part-cooling fan wires. Press the remaining LEDs into their slots. (I measure out 35mm of wire to connect these LEDs together) Here is another view also showing how the hotend fan wires fit through the hole on the side of the status LED carrier. Insert the second part-cooling fan and splice the wires together with the first fan. Install the hotend with at least two M2.5x6 screws (M3x6 for the Revo Voron). The heater cartridge should be installed away from the LEDs to avoid overheating them. Pre-assemble the extruder pieces before installing into the shroud. Use M3x30 screws to attach motor_bridge. Install the extruder with an M3x6 BHCS on the back and then an M3x12 from below. Ensure the cables are routed as flat to the shroud as possible and secure them with zip ties. Install the strain_relief or cable_chain_mount with two M3x8 screws and the cable_door with another M3x8 screw. Close the cable door with an M3x6 screw. Happy Printing!
  4. Hello everyone, This is my second Voron printer build, my first being a Voron0 which has been a fantastic little printer. But I needed something a little larger, so I ended up buying a LDO Trident kit. I wanted to visualize the colour scheme of my new Trident a little better than I did with my V0 build. I know there are a few good web based colour configurators for Voron's out there but I needed a little more control. As I know my way around blender quite well and Fusion360 feels quite unfamiliar to me, I ended up importing the cad model (exported as stl) into blender and colouring as needed. Anyway, I have decided on quite a dark scheme with a touch of Voron red. Will post some 'real' build photo's soon.
  5. Version 1.1.5

    4,386 downloads

    This toolhead scales down the body of the Stealthburner to a size which fits into a V0.1. Fully assembled it weighs about 110 grams less than the original. It is designed around the Orbiter 2.0 extruder and has versions for the Phaetus Dragonfly, Dragon and Rapido HF hotends as well as a version to fit the Revo Voron hotend. It incorporates a status LED as well as two for print visibility. 22 Nov 2022: I have added new versions that should fit the Mosquito hotend. I cannot verify the fitment so if there are any issues please leave a comment. It uses a pair of 4010 blowers which I found to produce slightly more airflow than a 5015 blower while being notably less noisy and drawing less current. The depth of these fans do limit Y travel by 3mm on a V0.1 while the door is closed and tophat is on. The width of the main body at its base is also a very tight fit at the extremes of X travel. The part cooling ducts of the original file act as a simple air dump similar to the mini-Afterburner. The 'alt_ducts' version is based on the Stealthburner ducts and provides a more restrictive but targeted airflow. This seems to give better cooling but I have not done any meaningful testing yet. The 'minimal' version does not need the 'motor_bridge' or 'filament_lever' and gives finger access to the latch of the Orbiter 2.0. This Orbiter 2.0 m-stlb is a better fit than the Orbiter 1.5 m-stlb in a V2.4 or Trident as the motor no longer interferes with the path of the cable chain. There is a seperate 'strain_relief' stl for use in the V0.1. The included Blender file shows the entire assembly complete with screws and should answer most basic questions. Note on MGN-9 installation: The default 2mm x 10 plastic threading screw is too long for mounting the x-axis endstop. An M2 x 8 does the job fine. For mounting to the linear carriage use four M3 x 6 flat-head screws. Note: The MGN carriage shown is an MGN-9H, not the shorter MGN-9C used in the V0.1 mod. Assembly Instructions After pressing the status LED diffuser into place, install the right part-cooling fan first by feeding the wires through the small hole at the bottom. Then feed the wires for the status LED and hotend fan through before starting to push the LED carrier into position. Carefully push the status LED carrier as far as it will go and then carefully press the fan into position while making sure not to pinch the part-cooling fan wires. Press the remaining LEDs into their slots. (I measure out 35mm of wire to connect these LEDs together) Here is another view also showing where the hotend fan wires fit. Insert the second part-cooling fan and splice the wires together with the first fan. Install the hotend with at least two M2.5x6 screws. The heater cartridge should be installed away from the LEDs to avoid overheating them. (Don't forget the PTFE tube) Pre-assemble the extruder pieces before installing into the shroud. Use two M3x8 BHCS to install the Orbiter 2.0 extruder. It helps to have both screws in the Orbiter before putting it in place. Start the screw by the latch and then the blind screw should be easier to align. Gather all of the wires together with a zip-tie next to the base of the Orbiter latch and then use another zip-tie to secure the wires to the motor-bridge. Leave a little slack in the extruder wires. Install the strain_relief or cable_chain_mount with two M3x6/8 screws and the cable_door with a M3x10/12 screw. Close the cable door with a M3x6 screw and screw in the extruder tensioning thumb screw. Happy Printing!
  6. Version 2022.11.18

    3 downloads

    Trident dual power switch This is a simple mod to allow mounting two switches along side the filtered inlet, rather than one. The intention is to wire this so that the Raspberry Pi remains powered, even when the rest of the system is off Hardware This mod only works with the filtered inlet from the sourcing guide, not any of the all-in-one options. It should work with any switch that works in the stock skirt, you just need 2 of them now.
  7. Version 2022.10.13

    4 downloads

    Bigtreetech Manta M8P Din Mounting Brackets Designed to mount the Bigtreetech Manta M8P Controller Board. Based on the Voron Octopus Mounting Brackets Printing Standard Voron part printing guidelines to follow: 0.4 nozzle, 0.2 layer height, etc. Assembly BOM: Size Qty M3x8 4 M2 Self-tapping Screw 2 PCB Din Clip 2
  8. Version 2022.11.18

    24 downloads

    Stealthburner Rapido UHF A mod that stretches the Stealthburner Front and Rapido Toolhead Front for use with a Rapido UHF configuration. It moves the lighting and cooling to Stealthburner stock locations relative to new nozzle location. Designed from SB RC1 using this version. No additional parts required. Assembly is as per Voron Stealthburner manual. You may need to increase the length of one of the LED wire legs.
  9. Version 2022.10.13

    0 downloads

    Zodiac BMO Stealthburner Toolhead A modified toolhead for use with the Zodiac BMO Hotend and compatible with RC1 of Stealthburner. It was created from the original RC1 Stealthburner Phaetus BMO Toolhead files. If changes after RC1 of Stealthburner make this mod incompatible, I will provide updated files based on the official Stealthburner CAD files. The official Zodiac3D CAD Model of their BMO Hotend was used for reference. Images Notes For optimal fit it is very important that your printer's dimensional accuracy is nearly perfect. Especially Pressure Advance has to be tuned right. Even then it is still a very tight fit, when putting in the hotend. That ensures that it cannot twist or wiggle. One handed nozzle changes should be possible, but are generally not recommended. The bowden tube length from top of the toolhead to the heatbreak of the hotend is around 31.2mm. Take that into account when calculating the total bowden length. (E.g. Clockwork2 needs 11mm above the toolhead, so that accumulates to a total bowden length of 42.2mm, when using Clockwork2.) Test prints were made with standard ABS, ABS and ASA Carbon.
  10. Version 2022.11.09

    26 downloads

    Stealthburner Clockwork2 Toolhead for HF Crazy Mozzie This is a a toolhead mount for the HF Crazy Mozzie (or other Mosquito clones), compatible with Stealthburner RC1 and Clockwork 2. Design source. The airflow pattern is designed and tested for the high-flow version. Here it is shown with the regular version: In action:
  11. Version 1.1.4

    2,012 downloads

    This toolhead scales down the body of the Stealthburner to a size which fits into a V0.1. Fully assembled it weighs about 80 grams less than the original. It is designed around the Orbiter 1.5 extruder and has versions for the Phaetus Dragonfly, Dragon and Rapido HF hotends as well as a version to fit the Revo Voron hotend. It incorporates a status LED as well as two for print visibility. 22 Nov 2022: I have added new versions that should fit the Mosquito hotend. I cannot verify the fitment so if there are any issues please leave a comment. It uses a pair of 4010 blowers which I found to produce slightly more airflow than a 5015 blower while being notably less noisy and drawing less current. The depth of these fans do limit Y travel by 3mm on a V0.1 while the door is closed and tophat is on. The width of the main body at its base is also a very tight fit at the extremes of X travel. I have raised my tophat by 20mm which gives the cabling and filament tube plenty of room to breathe. I have also installed this on my Trident. The included files do not address cable management on a Trident or V2.4 but do provide mounting to the MGN12 carriage. The cable chain on a Trident or V2.4 would have to be moved back at least 5mm to clear the extruder stepper motor. The part cooling ducts of the original file act as a simple air dump similar to the mini-Afterburner. The 'alt_ducts' version is based on the Stealthburner ducts and provides a more restrictive but targeted airflow. This seems to give better cooling but I have not done any meaningful testing yet. The included Blender file shows the entire assembly complete with screws and should answer most basic questions. Note on MGN-9 installation: The default 2mm x 10 plastic threading screw is too long for mounting the x-axis endstop. An M2 x 8 does the job fine. For mounting to the linear carriage use four M3 x 6 flat-head screws. Rapido HF Note: The MGN carriage shown is an MGN-9H, not the shorter MGN-9C used in the V0.1 mod. Assembly Instructions After pressing the status LED diffuser into place, install the right part-cooling fan first by feeding the wires through the small hole at the bottom. Then feed the wires for the status LED and hotend fan through before starting to push the LED carrier into position. Carefully push the status LED carrier as far as it will go and then carefully press the fan into position while making sure not to pinch the part-cooling fan wires. Press the remaining LEDs into their slots. (I measure out 35mm of wire to connect these LEDs together) Here is another view also showing where the hotend fan wires fit. Insert the second part-cooling fan and splice the wires together with the first fan. Install the hotend with at least two M2.5x6 screws. The heater cartridge should be installed away from the LEDs to avoid overheating them. Gather the wires together and secure them with the first zip-tie. (it helps to insert a snipped zip-tie through the the hole and yank it through with pliers to remove printing artifacts from inside of the channels) Loop the wire bundle back around and add in the LED and hotend fan wires. Use two more zip-ties to secure everything in place. ENSURE to leave room for the extruder by lifting the loop of wires up and out of the way as shown. More space is much better than not enough. (Don't forget the PTFE tube) Pre-assemble the extruder pieces before installing into the shroud. Use two M3x8 BHCS to install the Orbiter 1.5 extruder. It helps to have both screws in the Orbiter before putting it in place. Start the screw by the latch and then the blind screw should be easier to align. Gather all of the wires together and then use a zip-tie to secure them to the motor-bridge. Leave a little slack in the extruder wires. Install the strain_relief with two M3x6/8 screws and the cable_door with a M3x10/12 screw. Close the cable door with a M3x6 screw and screw in the extruder tensioning thumb screw. Happy Printing!
  12. Version 1.0.0

    13 downloads

    EBB36 mount for Orbiter extruder Amended version of:
  13. Hi, i want to build a trident with 350 to 350 mm. - I want a very strong frame and so i will use 40x40 slot 5 profiles (don't know "slot 5" is a valid translation) - I am not sure i like the cable chains, so my frame should be open for an umbilical solution (no can bus) - I plan to use a dragon standard, an orbiter 2 or LTX lite extruder and an octopus pro - no hall sensors There are still many open decisions, because I still have to gather some knowledge. This is the state of my planing.
  14. Version 1.0.0

    15 downloads

    One of my goal was to print Polycarbonate (PC) as smoothly as possible. Unfortunately, PC is notorious for heavy warping. A possible countermeasure is to raise the chamber temp - in my case to around 60°C. (Be sure, that every component within your chamber can take the heat.) Around that temperature I found that the magnetic probe and the regular Micro-Switch probe aren't reliable anymore. So, I switched to a SSG-5P Micro-Switch, which is heat-resistant up to 120°C. The magnetic probe is a bit wider than the regular probe. Therefore, you have to reprint the X-Carriage. As of now, I redesigned the X-Carriage for CW1 - not CW2. Original probe made by Annex: https://github.com/Annex-Engineering/Quickdraw_Probe
  15. Version 1.0.0

    31 downloads

    My first Voron becomes ready part by part, by the mods i already have done it nearly wouldn't had been neccessary to buy the printed parts, but anyway... I'm a fan of the Horseshoe Spool Holder from Logan Fraser, but it has the disadvantage that it only fits Spools with 20cm rims! So I decided to create an extrusion mounted simple Universal Holder to the back using the standard extrusion frame holder that came with the printed parts. It can be used standalone or as in my case in addition to logans horseshoe. As both the horseshoe and the simple are extrusion mounted I can easy remove the bottom plate as I also use Logans Inverted Electronics (as well as his Pi Plate I also modified). To be able to have the Filament inserted from Horseshoe or my universal version I also made a curved Bowden Guide angled at 60 degrees to the extrusion. The curved outlet up to the toolhead is angled to guide the bowden to the extrusion to prevent the bowden touching the cabling of the stepper motor. The Bowden Guide needs a support (see pic below) Parts needed: SIS: M5 x 20mm, M5-Nut (pull the nut into the holder with the M5x20 first), M5 x 10mm, M5 extrusion nut Bowden Guide: M3 x 8, M3 Hammerhead Many thanks Logan for your incredible Mods! As always, have fun
  16. Version 1.0.0

    13 downloads

    One of my goal was to print Polycarbonate (PC) as smoothly as possible. Unfortunately, PC is notorious for heavy warping. A possible countermeasure is to raise the chamber temp - in my case to around 60°C. (Be sure, that every component within your chamber can take the heat.) Around that temperature I found that the magnetic probe and the regular Micro-Switch probe aren't reliable anymore. So, I switched to a SSG-5P Micro-Switch, which is heat-resistant up to 120°C. BOM: SSG-5P GT2 20T 6mm JST 3Pin
  17. Version 1.0.0

    57 downloads

    I've created a Trident mounting bracket for Decontaminator... As it's designed to be mounted on the right side of the extrusion the Purge bucket needs to be mirrored so the small bucket shows to the Z-axis end stop. Pls. add 2 small supports for the 2 guides on the extrusion side. It needs 1 pc. M5 x 10 + Extrusion Nut and 2 pc. M3 Heat-Inserts Have fun, Wick!
  18. Version 1.0.0

    23 downloads

    The Clearview Infinity mod for the Voron 2.4r2 and Trident is an upgraded enclosure system that offers both better performance with a commercial grade design aesthetic. The name "Clearview Infinity" correlates to the visual aesthetic of the transparent panels. 1/4" HD polycarbonate panels and oversized hardware are designed to take give this a commercial grade fit and finish. More so, the added function that this enclosure set adds is better heat retention for advanced printing, reduced noise while printing, and a strong sturdy enclosure that feels like a professional piece of lab equipment. All due respect to the Voron team for making an amazing printer, but we thought the enclosure portion needed some help. Open Source mode: We want to offer a way to open source this mod for those who DIY. At the same time, we build these enclosures to make a living and we put a lot of work into the design, function, and finish of the enclosures we make. That said, we will give you alternative open source parts that you can use to complete your own Clearview Infinity enclosure or it is available for purchase through our website. In the spirit of being a maker, we'll happy to share our idea and the work it takes to make a great product. What is included (BOM) 5 Polycarbonate panels (5.5mm or 6mm) (Front, sides, rear, and top) 52 m5 x10mm flanged screws 52 m5 half round extrusion nuts 16 m4 x10mm flanged screws 12 m4 Rivet nuts 4 5mm x 10mmx 5mm magnets 1 - 256mm pull handle 1 press fit bowden holder 1/4" wide weather seal Printed parts 3 - 270 degree hinges 2 - Magnetic brackets 1 - combination rubber grommet Panel 1 Front 421mm wide x 435.5mm tall Panel 2 + 3 Sides 410mm wide x 430mm tall Panel 4 Rear 421mm wide x 430mm tall Panel 5 Top 421mm wide x 415.5 deep Hinges 1/4" x 1/8 Gasket Material Interactive model https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue2bc5d44/g/shares/SH9285eQTcf875d3c53959473f32555af79b
  19. I'll add my self sourced 250 Trident build to the diaries. This is my first Voron, and second printer. I started out with a Prusa Mini+ kit and enjoyed the build so much that I started looking more seriously at the Vorons. I did look while doing initial research, but the full DIY nature was intimidating at the time; the Mini has been a great learning printer both for building and printing. In the process of researching I found the Voron Discord, this forum, and Nero & Steve's Youtube channels. Lurking, reading, and ultimately starting to ask dumb questions has taught me a lot in a short time. So I started with the Voron configurator to get my BOM, then grabbed the matching info off the sourcing guide to start finding where to buy parts. I spent quite a while learning about many of the components to determine what the best cost vs quality balance is for me. In the process, I found the popular vendors supplying the hobby. I built myself a spreadsheet to track & manage the list of parts and my often-shifting plans of what to buy and from whom. I started purchases taking advantage of sales on Aliexpress, and just accelerated the process after witnessing the Voron Hug and general supply chain issues. If something is in stock these days, you probably want to buy now rather than wait. So the list of vendors I've used are: 3D Maker Parts Amazon Aliexpress DFH Grainger KB-3D Mandala Rose Works PiHut Push Plastics Sparta 3D West 3D I tried to minimise the orders and take advantage of free shipping triggers as much as possible, so I didn't get hit too hard with that forgotten cost. A few redirected sources due to out of stock situations; PiHut most notable--had to order the board from the UK after the things became unobtanium. The last part to get is ironically the frame. I'm being picky and want the LDO blue kit which has not been available. As I was composing this I checked again, and unexpectedly got a hit on KB-3D, who now has them! So all parts are now ordered. I've spent the last week getting my Mini prepped for printing up the parts for the Trident. So I now have a full set of spare parts in PETG, which itself was a learning experience. I have to move the OctoPi from a separate case to the integrated electronics box lid. That is to help fit everything under the original box for the Mini as my cheap enclosure for ABS printing. Next step is to get some ABS test prints so I can dial that in, then start printing parts. EDIT: I should probably also list the mods I am incorporating into the initial build: hartk SexBolt Z endstop. hartk Z endstop PCB randell XY endstop PCB jeoje 4.3" Waveshare touchscreen with Steve's modified skirt. hernsl magnetic bottom panel clips Steve's no tape skirt fan mounts chrisgonzales 270° door hinges Nero's idler bearing stack in place of toothed idler change
  20. Big box at my door with Chinese all over it , what could it be ? I've been planning this build since I discovered Voron shortly after being gifted a very old Ender 3 which led to purchasing a CR6se which in turn led to modding the crap out of it so it could print the parts for the big box at my door. 4 months ago I'd never even seen an fdm printer in person and today I'm building what is quite possibly the coolest robot around. Mistakes coming , lessons to be learned, thank God for discord. Here goes everything....
  21. Version 2021.12.21

    103 downloads

    C270 mount Top-front mount for a Logitech C270 camera, based on https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/Koios/C920_Mount The mount uses the pin and screw from the stock camera's arm, and the front of the camera is removed in order to use the focusing ring. Fiction#5826 on Discord
  22. Version 2022.08.25

    21 downloads

    ssd_bracket bracket to mount a ssd-drive to the din rail under a voron printer This bracket is designed to mount a ssd drive in the electronic bay of a voron 2.4 or Trident. The following part has to be printed x1: pcb_din_clip_x3 Bom: 1x ssd_bracket 1x pcb_din_clip 2x M2x10 self tapping screw 4x M3x12 SHCS Instructions: Use the M2x10 self tapping screws to mount the ssd_bracket to the pcb_din_clip. Then mount your ssd drive with the M3x12 SHCS to the ssd_bracket. Then snap the assembly in place on the din rail. It mounts similar to the Raspberry Pi on page 178 to 179 on the Voron 2.4r2 manual.
  23. Version 2022.03.31

    6,629 downloads

    Orbiter 2 Clockwork Module (beta) This Clockwork module allows the use of the Orbiter v2 Extruder in the Voron Afterburner. THIS IS A PRE-RELEASE - DO NOT DOWNLOAD UNLESS YOU ARE WILLING TO DEAL WITH POSSIBLE ISSUE OR TO GIVE FEEDBACK! The rear screws that hold the chain anchor on are m3x8, two of them. They use the Voron heat set inserts, m3 I was working with DoubleT on the PCB holder. Trying to build a universal tool version so we could use different holders.
  24. Version 2022.04.06

    85 downloads

    HEPA Filter Exhaust for Voron 1.x/2.x I've designed a new exhaust which uses a 120x120x25 mm fan and HEPA filters (compatible with MELEDEN, RIGOGLIOSO, JINPUS and LTLKY air purifiers). This is a direct replacement for the stock air exhaust system. Configured in Klipper to power the fan at 50%, and coupled with the nevermore micro, this seems to add to negative air pressure in the chamber and have a noticeable impact on reducing fumes, while only reducing chamber temperature by a couple of degrees C at the exhaust port. Bill of Materials New Parts 1x 120x120x25mm fan such as Noctua NF-F12 iPPC-2000. (note that I have an adjustable voltage on my control board, but make sure your fan matches the voltage for your system.) HEPA Filter such as Nispira True HEPA Filter Replacement with Activated Carbon Parts from Voron BOM Parts here are already listed in the Voron 1.x (Trident)
  25. Day one Finally got off my butt and got my kit build started. Didn't get really far. Working on it while trying to get some other projects done, so you'll have to pardon the mess. Got frame done. Only had to take it apart 3 times. Had one extrusion facing the wrong way, forgot to install Y rails, and forgot to install nutbars. Everything checked out square in the end though. Following the manual and Steve Builds YouTube series. First build, so I'm doing it step by step. Trying to make sure I miss as much as possible, that worked out well the first day, lol. Had to stop, because I forgot to clean and prep linear rails ahead of time. I'll work some more on it tomorrow hopefully. Will try to take pics when I remember.
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