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History I am a proud Aquila owner... or used to be. I modded its electronics, the Z-drive, the extruder, added extra part cooling and swapped out the fan duct, made the heatbreak all-metal, encased it, klipperized it, made it virtually silent (fan+electronics mods), added a BLTouch, exchanged the glass plate for powdered PEI, added better bed springs... and honestly, based on other prints I've seen both IRL and online, its print quality could put a lot of premium printers to shame now. But still I've become dissatisfied with this bedslinger. Obviously my mods solved many of its initial issues, but I still constantly fight with first-layer adhesion and can never use the whole bed. Also, some components often need maintenance every few prints. Add to this that printing ABS is still problematic, and printing anything tall is impossible at humane speeds due to the moving bed, I've decided: I'm gonna build myself a Voron The Goals My choice fell to the Trident in its 300mm size. My expectations is that when it is done, it should be much more reliable than my current printer, and I'll also get a larger build volume and better ABS printability. I guess it will also end up being faster which is certainly good, but that really is only a secondary goal for me. Let's see if I can make it. Right from the start I am planning with a bunch of mods: Galileo2 extruder TAP CAN with umbilical cable Kinematic bed mount Y-axis backers WobbleX An ultra-flat bed from MRW (without integrated magnets) BFI Magnetic acrylic panels Chamber thermistor and bed fans Nevermore filter Chamber lighting (Daylight on a stick) Voron Revo hotend About the mods Just a few days ago, the Galileo2 (well, it's public beta) was announced and a small stock even became available with instant delivery (no waiting until sometime in october) at a local store. I might have gone into over-hype mode, but I am intrigued by the G2 and since it was optimized first and foremost for extrusion consistency, I decided I'll order one and ditch my Clockwork2 even though I already ordered the parts for it a week ago. Before the G2, my plan was to mod the CW2 with Bondtech's IDGA. The G2 is also supposed to be quieter which I also welcome: I've been told that Vorons can be pretty loud to begin with, and considering that my current printer is very silent, I'm already afraid the contrast in noise levels will be uncomfortable. So any help is welcome. I'm sure a lot of people would question the inclusion of the WobbleX. Well, I fervently dug through many forums and the Voron Discord before assembling my BOM, and even though most people claim they don't have problems with Z-banding, it also doesn't seem to be an unheard phenomenon on the Trident or similar printers (like the V-Core). I decided I'd rather get rid of the problem from the get-go even if there is a good chance I might not need it. Don't judge me please. The bed stuff with the MRW bed, kinematic mounts and backers are due to my first-layer traumas from my current printer. Besides, the kinematic mount might also save a lot of time when doing smaller prints by not having to wait for the printer to warm up. Let's see if this theory holds up in practice. For the backers I ordered linear guides. This sounds like a Gucci move but not at all. Rails that serve as backers don't have the same quality requirements as the rails with the actual carriages, so these can be dirt-cheap. Hence I ordered the cheapest set I could find on Aliexpress. This way, price was not only lower than Titanium backers, but at the same time I'll even get better print results. You might not want to do this though if you're not building an umbilical toolhead, as the cable chain would be in the way. My build's umbilical though, so no problem here. The reason for the Nevermore, chamber thermistor and bed fans should be obvious: All for the sake of printing ABS. Related to this are the magnetic acrylic sheets. Being magnetic will allow me to easily remove them or snap them back in, making it a child's play to switch from ABS to PLA and back. I did not include the pinmod. This mod is so strange. It seems to be extremely popular, it is present in many kits, and if not in a kit a very large portion of users still implement it. All this despite not having seen a single post or analysis or report where it actually made things better. If experts or highly-respected members of the Voron community are asked, they unanimously claim this is a useless mod and there is no reason to include it. So I left it out based on multiple people's advice and I'm glad I did: I'm past assembling the idlers in the build process, and what I see now myself is that the pinmod should not make any difference (the screws/pins are not what the bearings directly rotate around), so it is no surprise if it doesn't. IMHO, the pinmod is basically snake-oil. Maybe not really a mod, but it might be worth noting I opted for a BTT Pi+U2C in the electronics compartment. The nice thing about this is two-fold: First, the BTT Pi can be powered by 24V directly, so you save the space and cabling for a separate 5V PSU. Second, the U2C can piggy-back on the BTT Pi, saving again space and cabling. There is enough space so it's not like you need to save it, but this will make everything much tidier, neater and even easier to wire up. I'll completely ditch the screen. My current printer has one but I still use it exclusively over the Fluidd web-UI only. I know I won't need a screen on my Voron by experience. The self-sourcing My self-sourcing experience was a mixed-bag at first. It is very time-intensive, for me it cost multiple days all things considered. I fully understand if not all people are willing to go through this process. The upside is you can control the brands and quality of the components, whereas with kits this is either unknown or at least might fluctuate. It might be tempting to think that self-sourcing is cheaper, but this depends on a lot of factors: what components you already have, what components are redundant to you in the kit due to future mods, how is component availability in stores, and even where you live (due to VAT amount or shipping costs). You also need to optimize shipments to order from as few stores as possible. Simply taking a kit's price and adding those of my components that weren't in the kit doesn't offer a full picture, and I didn't make this calculation. Of course, at first glance the completed BOM ended up being much more expensive than a kit, totaling to about 2400 EUR incl. VAT and shipping. This might sound scary compared to a kit's price that sells for around 1500 EUR, but considering all the extra stuff I ordered (PIF parts, TAP, CAN, MRW bed, Delta fans, WobbleX, Kinematic mount, twice the extruder, a quality crimping tool and allen-key set, chamber lighting, ...), I think I did pretty good. I am not sure a kit would have been cheaper, and even if it were, not by much. Unfortunately, I also used to be pretty sure that even if I saved some money by self-sourcing, I did not save much. Frankly, between all the extra time, work and headache it might not have been worth it. At least that's what I thought at first. Then yesterday, I saw Lecktor's announcement about their fully-modded all-extra 2.4 kits. Yeah, I know it's a 2.4 and not a Trident. Yeah, I see the mods list is different from my own. Still, it is a lot more comparable BOM to my build than any other kit. Their prices start at ~2200EUR (excl. VAT!), so this makes me think I have grossly underestimated the money I saved by self-sourcing. What do you think? The build I started building last weekend (16. Sept). The printed parts are PIF parts and I have nothing to complain about. They are made out of FormFutura's "Premium ABS", the accent color being "Ocean Blue". Unfortunately, the guys at Lecktor were in sleep mode apparently and they did not ship my order for a whole week. This resulted in most mechanical stuff having arrived on time except for the Lecktor parcel. Since that parcel contains all the Z-drive components and all the non-backer rails, all I could do for now is assemble the frame and the idlers. Nevertheless, the first mod is in place Squareness seems good. This is not exact but deviations between diagonals seem to be around or under 0.5mm. I built the frame on my kitchen countertop to help with that (the bench in the picture is not it), and I did not need to do any readjusting afterwards. The bed got the Keenovo heater applied but is waiting for the GraviFlex foil (also in the Lecktor parcel arrgh...). To be continued... (don't worry, the rest of the posts should be shorter, lol)

Hi, i want to build a trident with 350 to 350 mm. - I want a very strong frame and so i will use 40x40 slot 5 profiles (don't know "slot 5" is a valid translation) - I am not sure i like the cable chains, so my frame should be open for an umbilical solution (no can bus) - I plan to use a dragon standard, an orbiter 2 or LTX lite extruder and an octopus pro - no hall sensors There are still many open decisions, because I still have to gather some knowledge. This is the state of my planing.

Hi, as the title suggests, this is going to take a while. I don't have spare money laying around so a kit is out of the question. I'm going to source everything myself. This is actually something I like doing. So, the actual build state is as follows : I bought the extrusions (In Poland, great quality and price) and am now in the process of tapping and drilling. Not very exciting I'm afraid, although I did design and print a few very simple jigs for drilling holes. I have no experience in printing ABS, always having printed in PLA and PETG. I tried with an enclosure for my trusted Ender 3 but hated the smell and the results were below par. So I decided to take advantage of the Voron PIF program, but since this is a slow build anyways I'll wait till the Stealthburner is officially the goto toolhead. As soon as the screws arrive from Ali I'll start assembling the frame.

I'll add my self sourced 250 Trident build to the diaries. This is my first Voron, and second printer. I started out with a Prusa Mini+ kit and enjoyed the build so much that I started looking more seriously at the Vorons. I did look while doing initial research, but the full DIY nature was intimidating at the time; the Mini has been a great learning printer both for building and printing. In the process of researching I found the Voron Discord, this forum, and Nero & Steve's Youtube channels. Lurking, reading, and ultimately starting to ask dumb questions has taught me a lot in a short time. So I started with the Voron configurator to get my BOM, then grabbed the matching info off the sourcing guide to start finding where to buy parts. I spent quite a while learning about many of the components to determine what the best cost vs quality balance is for me. In the process, I found the popular vendors supplying the hobby. I built myself a spreadsheet to track & manage the list of parts and my often-shifting plans of what to buy and from whom. I started purchases taking advantage of sales on Aliexpress, and just accelerated the process after witnessing the Voron Hug and general supply chain issues. If something is in stock these days, you probably want to buy now rather than wait. So the list of vendors I've used are: 3D Maker Parts Amazon Aliexpress DFH Grainger KB-3D Mandala Rose Works PiHut Push Plastics Sparta 3D West 3D I tried to minimise the orders and take advantage of free shipping triggers as much as possible, so I didn't get hit too hard with that forgotten cost. A few redirected sources due to out of stock situations; PiHut most notable--had to order the board from the UK after the things became unobtanium. The last part to get is ironically the frame. I'm being picky and want the LDO blue kit which has not been available. As I was composing this I checked again, and unexpectedly got a hit on KB-3D, who now has them! So all parts are now ordered. I've spent the last week getting my Mini prepped for printing up the parts for the Trident. So I now have a full set of spare parts in PETG, which itself was a learning experience. I have to move the OctoPi from a separate case to the integrated electronics box lid. That is to help fit everything under the original box for the Mini as my cheap enclosure for ABS printing. Next step is to get some ABS test prints so I can dial that in, then start printing parts. EDIT: I should probably also list the mods I am incorporating into the initial build: hartk SexBolt Z endstop. hartk Z endstop PCB randell XY endstop PCB jeoje 4.3" Waveshare touchscreen with Steve's modified skirt. hernsl magnetic bottom panel clips Steve's no tape skirt fan mounts chrisgonzales 270° door hinges Nero's idler bearing stack in place of toothed idler change

After I have successfully completed my Voron 2.4, I would like to build another printer. I wavered VzBot and Trident. My sieger is the latter. Since my last construction diary was not really written promptly, I want to keep this step up-to-date and illustrated. I will also include my costs. Then we start the construction starting at this point with ordering the aluminum profile 20x20 Nut 6 type-i for 79Euro How to sight I have to switch to M6, but this was no problem with my 2.4.

Hello everyone, This is my second Voron printer build, my first being a Voron0 which has been a fantastic little printer. But I needed something a little larger, so I ended up buying a LDO Trident kit. I wanted to visualize the colour scheme of my new Trident a little better than I did with my V0 build. I know there are a few good web based colour configurators for Voron's out there but I needed a little more control. As I know my way around blender quite well and Fusion360 feels quite unfamiliar to me, I ended up importing the cad model (exported as stl) into blender and colouring as needed. Anyway, I have decided on quite a dark scheme with a touch of Voron red. Will post some 'real' build photo's soon.

# Overview Red 350x350x250 frame + Fire Engine Red ABS+ parts Stealthburner + Clockwork 2 + Revo Voron Manta M5P + CB1 + TMC2209 + CAN LDO Motors Tap Tap Tap! Mods! (will get to those later) # Parts list (will edit as things change) Motion POWGE VORON Trident Motion Set (AliExpress) 2 × LDO Stepper Motor (42STH48-2004MAH) (OneTwo3D) 3 × LDO Linear Stepper Motor (42STH40-1684L300E) (OneTwo3D) CNA 440C Stainless Steel Rails and Carriage (AliExpress) Misc FYSETC Voron Trident Screws Nuts Full Kit 3D Printer Screws Full Kit (AliExpress) FYSTEC Frame (AliExpress) 10*11mm Mini Energy Nylon Drag Chain (AliExpress) PET Braided Wire Sleeving (AliExpress) *MOD* Adam Hall - set of black rubber feet - 38x33 mm (Amazon) *MOD* 2 x Daylight on a stick XXL (PrintyPlease) Toolhead E3D 24V Rapid Change Revo™, Voron 1.75mm Fully Loaded Upgrade Kit (Amazon) RNC Nano Coated Gear DDB Extruder (Trianglelab) Delta 5015 (BFB0524HH) (PrintyPlease) Sunon MF40101VX-1000U-G99 (Digikey) Voron Tap 5V (PrintyPlease) *MOD* Rainbow Barf LEDs + Resin printed lens (PrintyPlease) Stealthburner RGBW LEDs (PrintyPlease) LDO-36STH20-1004AHG(XH) motor (Biqu) *MOD* BIGTREETECH EBB SB2240 CAN V1.0 for Voron StealthBurner (Biqu) Bed 8mm Thick Trident Bed 355mm (PrintyPlease) *MOD* Whoppingpochard's Maxwell Kinematic mounts for Voron Trident (PrintyPlease) VORON Full-size Bed Heater (Magicphoenix) CatBed 355mm PEI Flexplate with Magnet (PrintyPlease) Electronics bay BIGTREETECH Manta M5P Control Board with CB1 (Biqu) IEC-GS-1-100 (Digikey) MeanWell UHP-200-24 (Magicphoenix) SCHAFFNER FN2060-16-06 16A (bought new from eBay) Sensata / Crydom D24110PG (bought new from eBay) Sunon FAN AXIAL 60X20MM 24VDC (Digikey) 3 x BIGTREETECH TMC2209 V1.3 Stepper Motor Driver (Biqu) *MOD* Meanwell UHP-200-48 Power Supply (PrintyPlease) *MOD* 2 x Makerbase MKS TMC5160-PRO 8-60VDC Stepper Motor Driver (AliExpress) # The frame I'd say this Fystec frame is more magenta than red, but either way, I think it looks great. # Printing time I'm printing parts on an Ender 3 V2, in a cold garage. I started in November but had to wait till Mid-January before temperatures were above 0c. The first results weren't great... eSUN ABS+ spool was full of tangles which caused failed prints But eventually, some prints started to emerge! To be continued...