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  1. First week of Knocking my head of with fusion and the Try to Extrude some Item Profiles and doing Math on where to place what to make the Printer 100mm greater in all dimensions. Looking where i need to put how much To LEft Right and Up and Down. Oder List so far for Components : Frame Check , Holes to Drill ( i need to wait for the Cenvention Machines to get free :P) Electronics : Mainboard , PSu 24 Volt , Some stuff for Heatbed and Hotend , Cabel missing in PTFE Mechanic : all stuff together but the Rails got Delivered in MGN9 instead of 12 ( i can Curse like a Sailor in such Cases) , so need to wait till they are Delivered Things to do : STL in the Right Dimensions ( Front and Rear Grill left and Right , Some Holders for the Fly Mainboard and ather little tings) I will post if i got something ready with STL and Pictures
  2. Formbot kit. (Dragon HF hotend) Planning to do the Mini AfterSherpa/Sailfin for my print head, mostly because I really want to be able to get to the large plastic gear to manually advance/retract filament when loading and unloading. I have that on my modified prusa (via a bondtech bmg) and I don't want to go back to not having it. Bought parts for the Umbilical (https://deepfriedhero.in/products/voron-v0-umbillical-and-rear-connector-boards?_pos=2&_psq=umbilical&_ss=e&_v=1.0) but not sure how to get the board pointed straight up given that the sailfin turns the extruder motor sideways. went ahead and built the extruder/hotend without the umbilical for now, since the kit has most of the wires already made, and I'd have had to redo them for the umbilical, anyway. I'll save that mod for the first time I want to change out the extruder (and get annoyed that I have to open up the whole cable bundle to do so). Bought a fan an some (supposedly non acidic) charcoal for a nevermore, so went ahead and printed the parts and put that together while waiting for my kit to arrive. Main parts printed in Fusion Filaments Geomagnetic Mauve Accent parts printed in Atomic Filament Neon Green UV Reactive ABS Black parts printed in Atomic black ABS Other mods/things I'm considering: Per https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3_A5d-1Vq4 an additional thermistor (for measuring build chamber temp) can be connected to SPI GND+MOSI pins. That seems useful enough to do. https://www.printables.com/model/146877-voron-0-voron-01-raspberry-pi-camera-mount I'm spoiled having cameras on all my octoprint instances. I'm probably going to want a camera on this printer, too. Though I'm new to klipper, I've seen mention of using cameras with it, so I'll figure it out. https://voronregistry.com/mods/quackprofit-v0adafruitneopixelledmounts Well, if I'm going to have a camera, I'm probably going to need some lights, so why not go a little extra? Kit delivered, and I got all the accent parts printed (since that filament showed up first). Went ahead and built a nevermore filter while I'm at it, since I expect to be using this printer to print ABS and whatnot. I found a link to that cable channel model somewhere in the voron community, but can't for the life of me find it now. The picture I saw was it fitting in a V0.1, so I'm hoping I can find a place to put it and help manage the cable mess that printers always become. Put the extruder/hotend together to make sure I had all the pieces I need. Not sure where I'm supposed to get a different carriage, since this one has a curve in the top that doesn't line up to where the motor actually is on the sailfin, but whatever, it doesn't obstruct anything, so I'll keep it this way for now until I find or design a different carriage. + Tip: The PEI stickers from Prusa for their Mk3 steel sheets are big enough to make exactly four PEI stickers for a bed the size of the voron 0. Since my flex plate came with textured PEI on one side, but bare metal on the other side, and I had a couple spares of these, the bare side got a PEI sticker to give me options for a print surface. Progress on the actual printer build. Having done the bed frame, i now understand why people buy the stamped metal ones. Lining up the nuts for those 8 screws was the most time consuming thing I've done so far on this thing. And more parts printing (the angle of the camera is exagerating the warp, but yes, those parts are warping. This enclosure is a little too big to heat up well, so I probably need to avoid having parts near the edge of the print bed. We'll see in an hour when this set is done if these will be usable, or if they're scrap. Other errata: The printer above is actually my second Prusa mk3 (a mk3s+ to be specific). I printed all the green parts, black parts, and the first batch of purple on my first mk3, but it's old and struggling. I was having extrusion issues (unable to tune for temp or extrusion modifier effectively) when I checked the nozzle and found it was hollowed out to about .6 by years of printing abrasives (it's hardened tool steel, but even that has limits). Then, after replacing the nozzle and getting it printing much better, it had a temperature panic and reset during a print job. I tried to run a PID tune, thinking that ABS prints hotter than the CFPETG I usually run through it, so maybe tuning was in order, when I saw fumes coming off the nozzle during the heatup/PID tune. At first I thought it was steam and the filament was wet, but then I saw the temp go from 245 to 280 in about a second and a half, and realized two things almost instantly: a. My thermistor is dying/failing/flaking. b. That wasn't steam, it was smoke, and I was burning filament. So I quickly reset the printer and opened a window to keep my smoke detectors from going nuts (the camera is close to the nozzle, so the actual amount of smoke was small, but I was definitely burning the filament. ABS doesn't smell pleasant on a good day, but I had to air out that room for a while to be comfortable going in there. So yeah, I guess my old mk3 needs some love before it's going to be doing big print jobs again. Hopefully I get the V0 up and running soon, and it can fill in for now until rebuild the hot end (I was getting annoyed at the PINDA probe, anyway, since printing at ABS temps starts to get to the point where the PINDA messes up its reading and your nozzle height gets screwy. The new generation (Super PINDA) on the mk3s+ has no trouble levelling the bed even after heating up for 20 minutes to try to get the enclosure to a decent temp. (Well, I say that, but the picture above does show the parts curling, so obviously the enclosure didn't get as warm as I'd like). Okay, that's probably enough for now. That batch is almost done on the printer, so I can check the parts and do some more assembly if they're usable.
  3. Hi, as the title suggests, this is going to take a while. I don't have spare money laying around so a kit is out of the question. I'm going to source everything myself. This is actually something I like doing. So, the actual build state is as follows : I bought the extrusions (In Poland, great quality and price) and am now in the process of tapping and drilling. Not very exciting I'm afraid, although I did design and print a few very simple jigs for drilling holes. I have no experience in printing ABS, always having printed in PLA and PETG. I tried with an enclosure for my trusted Ender 3 but hated the smell and the results were below par. So I decided to take advantage of the Voron PIF program, but since this is a slow build anyways I'll wait till the Stealthburner is officially the goto toolhead. As soon as the screws arrive from Ali I'll start assembling the frame.
  4. Got the last box (for now) of parts in the post earlier in the week - a PIF kit from Slidr over on Discord, and there was some time late this week to get the build started! Spent last night cleaning and greasing the linear rails & fitting them to the required extrusions & building the bed carrier. Looked over my work this evening and 3 of the 4 Y/Z rails were in the wrong side of each extrusion... Hopefully that will teach me not to work on it late in the evening! Thought I'd have a problem getting the Z rails trammed, but a glass-ceramic stovetop was flat enough to sort that out. Hopefully it'll be accurate enough, but we'll see when I get around to tuning I suppose. I'm building with a Formbot kit - and the M3 screws are unfortunately quite soft - I've partially stripped two of them already. Both on blind joints, but tapping a T8 screwdriver into the chewed up screwhead seems to have been enough to get them to loosen off. I caution people against using ball-head hex keys too much with the formbot kit, It'll lead to headaches. Aside from that, the kit parts look great. Don't have to worry about sourcing a Pi as I've an old 3B lying around from years ago that I plan to use.
  5. Big box at my door with Chinese all over it , what could it be ? I've been planning this build since I discovered Voron shortly after being gifted a very old Ender 3 which led to purchasing a CR6se which in turn led to modding the crap out of it so it could print the parts for the big box at my door. 4 months ago I'd never even seen an fdm printer in person and today I'm building what is quite possibly the coolest robot around. Mistakes coming , lessons to be learned, thank God for discord. Here goes everything....
  6. Printed all the parts for the Voron 2.4r1 (red and black) and as I was about to begin ---the 2.4r2 was released. Question was, do I build the printer with the parts already printed, just print the new parts, or.......? Well I decided to build a Voron 0 instead. (V0.1632) and started reprinting the parts for the 2.4r2 in a totally new colour scheme (Red and yellow) Also printed the parts in PC-ABS rather than just ABS for additional strength. Also gave me time to learn from the experiences of others, especially @Buurman. And just when I thought I was ready to start, I saw the front idlers mod which I just had to print. Like @PFDennis, I just can't resist a good mod. Finishing printing this now on my VZBot: ) Building on a mirror 600x900x8mm - should be pretty flat. Not as nice as the granite slab that @EricD got but it will do. I built my Voron 0 on a glass bed from a Tronxy X5sa with excellent results. (I converted the Tronxy to a VZBot as seen above) So let the journey begin: Voron 2.4r2 300x300 here I come!!
  7. Have had my MK3s for a couple years now and while waiting for their next product decided to try my hand at a Vorn, just couldn't pass up the opportunity after seeing so many videos demonstrating the print quality and the speed... oh the speed. Chose the Trident mainly because I saw someone was tinkering with idex. Did a lot of looking (searching) for kits and ended up ordering the kit from Fabreeko, communication before even considering the purchase was awesome and very refreshing... hopefully the rest of the Voron community is just as nice. No experience printing ABS on my current printer so decided to order printed parts, this in itself was an experience because the options on the Trident are wide and I had no idea what "configuration" I needed to order for the printed parts (direct drive vs bowden, CW1 or CW2, AB or SB, PCB, control board... you know the drill. Luckily this is one of the areas where Fabreeko shined and basically listed out what options I needed to select. Started watching build videos on the day I ordered, initial thought was WTH am I doing, but after revisiting videos the picture got much clearer. Have had printer kit for a week-ish now so built the frame and started loading software on my raspberri pi. Did I say I built the frame? Did I say how I love the blind joints? I'm glad I built the frame before getting printed parts or I feel I would have rushed things a bit... those darn blind joints are a PITA.... get things to what appear to be just right, tighten it down and crap.. it shifted. Loosen a bit, get things re-aligned, tighten down... crap... it shifted. I probably revisited the frame 4 times over a week's time, but the result is nice. I keep having dreams (not really) of whether or not my screws are tight enough for the long hall and have to catch myself periodically to not touch it.... so we'll see how long I can last. Printed parts are supposed to be in tomorrow so this weekend will be a fun one. Didn't take many pics initially, but here is a taste.
  8. Hello everyone, I will try to share with you this big adventure of my first Voron build and self-sourcing in the same time. I had watched a lot of videos about this printer. My favorite (for the moment) are : Greg's Maker Corner Voron 0.1 Playlist ModBot : Why I Am Building A Voron 3d Printer (And Why You May Want To) 247 Printing : VORON0.1 Kits COMPAIRED: PARTS and BUILD Experience (PART 1) To find LDO resellers, I just take a look here and I had placed my first orders at Caribou3d in Germany and Lecktor in Estonia. My surprise is that European resellers are cheaper than Aliexpress for the frame for example. And with those LDO products (frame + all stepper motors), I hope I'm starting with a strong base. In return, you have to pay shipping. Other surprise, for the main board, I have choosen a BBT SKR Pico board and its price on Big Tree Tech web site is 30% less (shipping included) than in Aliexpress. To be continued ...
  9. Starting building soon, most parts are delivered or in transport now. had some delay of Formbot city lockdown, but LDO is having massive delays also (even worse). Expecting to start building in about two weeks.... to be continued! Voron Kit: Formbot 2.4 R3 350 Vulcan SF Printed Parts: ASA Carbon Black & Neon Yellow (Neon Yellow was self sources, not a default color offered) High Quality prints from Mehmet (Turkey) on Etsy 5 star rating https://www.etsy.com/nl/shop/Yacime3D?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=1188668167 Wiring: Decided to buy an all black kit + SB kit from OneTwo3D.co.uk LCD: BTT Pi TFT50 v2.0 - BigTreeTech Electronics: Need to decide to mount things normal, or vertical, see what brings best space and cooling. Ventilation/filtering: Nevermore Duo with two Delta fans. Mostly for the hot air distribution, but filtering helps. VEFACH filter outlet MOD
  10. Well after confessing, in my intro, that amongst other sins I am lazy I have decided to pull my thumb out and get on and build my second Voron (0.1). Clearly the term "get on" is a relative one and should be viewed in context. Somewhere between the thermal heat-death of the universe and the half-life of Copernicium-235, I'll try and aim for better than Continental Drift as a good measure of progress. I spent last night inserting the heat-inserts into the necessary parts and managing to melt a couple and misalign a few others courtesy of my sausage fingers but fortunately Voron #1 came to the rescue and churned out the necessary replacement parts. For the purposes of this build, I'll be fitting the kirigami bed from the outset (much easier than a retrofit) and fitting an ADXL345 accelerometer. I have to confess that I utterly love the Resonance Compensation features of Klipper (saves printing a zillion test prints and never quite getting decently ghost free results). Clearly because I am still lazy I did not lay out all the parts for the printer
  11. I've been accumulating parts over the last few months for the new Trident, choosing every part myself. I went with a Formbot kit for my 1st, the 300 Voron2.4. Needless to say, buying the kit required all the cash up front. I was so excited to build another, I began buying parts a little at a time. It was much easier on the wallet. Shortly after I had purchased the most expensive parts, I decided to retire. Now I have plenty of time to build it. As of this post, I am short one important component. I ordered a wire harness from KB3D 6 weeks ago. It has not yet shipped. I was informed last week that I am #10 in the queue at Linneo, so it should be shipping from Spain soon...-ish. Anyway, the first part I ordered was the frame. I got it from a FYSETC store on AliExpress for about $65. The price is higher now, especially for shipping, but I happened to catch a pre-sale deal. All extrusions were the correct length, holes pre-drilled and tapped, and came individually wrapped in a thin foam. They also came with hardware for assembly, which I did use. That became step one this morning. I have avoided AliExpress when possible, but some things are either very hard to find or the price difference is hard to ignore. T-nuts were one of those items. I mostly followed the sourcing guide on the Voron Configurator. All the motors are LDO from KB3D. Day 1 is over. The frame is together and squared up completely. Over the past few months, I have printed several sets of parts in ABS and ASA in a few different colors. I'm having trouble deciding. lol. I'm going to sleep on it. Wish me luck. (To Be Continued)
  12. After deciding to make the move a week ago, I looked around on google to find a supplier and settled on three choices: Bluerolls Store or FYSETC 1th Store on Aliexpress or formbot3d.com. All from China since I could not find anyone in the rest of the world with kits ready to roll off and marks as 'in stock' **more on that later but one of my main requirements is that the kit arrives quickly Formbot3d - https://www.formbot3d.com/ - 1120 usd with courrier lottery (DHL/TNT/FedEx/UPS) FYSETC 1th Store - pronounced "Fizetk Firth Store" ; ) - https://www.aliexpress.com/store/2498059?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000007.1.349c34b2EKkljr - 1065 usd with DHL Bluerolls Store - https://www.aliexpress.com/store/2808029?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000007.1.14763867V7eQbU - 1225 usd with DHL Because of my past experience with Aliexpress, being too often frustrating, my choice was biased towards Formbot since they are the one with a standalone website; they had the kit marked "in stock", credible reviews and no indication of problems. I ordered on Jan 9th and got the box on the 20th I'm glad to report that everything arrived as expected, in good shape and well packaged in EPP foam like you've seen for others on youtube. ********* My build is a custom size: i'm going for 350 x 350 x 730. I simply added 400mm to the z axis swapping the 400mm rails for 800mm ones. Here's the list of stuff I got for this mod: 4 main vertical extrusions, 930mm with blind corners: MISUMI Part No:HFSB5-2020-930-LCP-RCP 4 800mm linear rails from Robotdigg: part No: GS_MGN9-1H-B800 : https://www.robotdigg.com/product/1314/Black-anodized-linear-rail-7,-9,-12-and-15 10meters of GT2-9 belt and a 1meter piece of DC1015 drag chain also From robotdigg Apart from the enclosure panels, that's all you need.
  13. Building a bed slinger this time around. Kit is in transit. I went with Frombot3D, they did me right with my 2.4R2 build so I'm going with them again. Would have like to try the LDO kit but price and availability turned me away. I guess I will see if the savings ends up being worth it or not. So far I'm printing parts. Base parts are Prusament Galaxy Black ASA, Accent parts will be FilamentOne ASA Sky Blue.
  14. I'll add my self sourced 250 Trident build to the diaries. This is my first Voron, and second printer. I started out with a Prusa Mini+ kit and enjoyed the build so much that I started looking more seriously at the Vorons. I did look while doing initial research, but the full DIY nature was intimidating at the time; the Mini has been a great learning printer both for building and printing. In the process of researching I found the Voron Discord, this forum, and Nero & Steve's Youtube channels. Lurking, reading, and ultimately starting to ask dumb questions has taught me a lot in a short time. So I started with the Voron configurator to get my BOM, then grabbed the matching info off the sourcing guide to start finding where to buy parts. I spent quite a while learning about many of the components to determine what the best cost vs quality balance is for me. In the process, I found the popular vendors supplying the hobby. I built myself a spreadsheet to track & manage the list of parts and my often-shifting plans of what to buy and from whom. I started purchases taking advantage of sales on Aliexpress, and just accelerated the process after witnessing the Voron Hug and general supply chain issues. If something is in stock these days, you probably want to buy now rather than wait. So the list of vendors I've used are: 3D Maker Parts Amazon Aliexpress DFH Grainger KB-3D Mandala Rose Works PiHut Push Plastics Sparta 3D West 3D I tried to minimise the orders and take advantage of free shipping triggers as much as possible, so I didn't get hit too hard with that forgotten cost. A few redirected sources due to out of stock situations; PiHut most notable--had to order the board from the UK after the things became unobtanium. The last part to get is ironically the frame. I'm being picky and want the LDO blue kit which has not been available. As I was composing this I checked again, and unexpectedly got a hit on KB-3D, who now has them! So all parts are now ordered. I've spent the last week getting my Mini prepped for printing up the parts for the Trident. So I now have a full set of spare parts in PETG, which itself was a learning experience. I have to move the OctoPi from a separate case to the integrated electronics box lid. That is to help fit everything under the original box for the Mini as my cheap enclosure for ABS printing. Next step is to get some ABS test prints so I can dial that in, then start printing parts. EDIT: I should probably also list the mods I am incorporating into the initial build: hartk SexBolt Z endstop. hartk Z endstop PCB randell XY endstop PCB jeoje 4.3" Waveshare touchscreen with Steve's modified skirt. hernsl magnetic bottom panel clips Steve's no tape skirt fan mounts chrisgonzales 270° door hinges Nero's idler bearing stack in place of toothed idler change
  15. I guess about two months after building my first Voron for myself I am starting to build a second one. This kit is slightly different than the first build, this one will be all Formbot default, no custom wiring, Klicky or Stealthburner... all default R2/Formbot build. EDIT1: I realise the only thing I am adding to this build is the VEFACH filter inserts, default doesnt work, this mod is absolutely amazing, good filter functionality. Kits and parts are getting more expensive, self sourcing has gotten more expensive than buying a kit. (yes, I did compare) So with this build I just want to see IF the default kit is good enough, what are the down and upsides from it. I am based in Amsterdam, so I ordered it from Formbot directly and had it shipped from Szech, this prevents extra import costs, but the kit is more expensive than from China, yet you still save about 100 euro. The kist price was 1000 DOLLAR, excluding Raspberry Pi, (you get 45 dollar back if they dont have it) I found a Raspberry Pi 4 in stock for 45 euro. You get the Dragon hotend send from China, if you dont choose the default hotend. In this kit the Extruder cable was missing, but it was added to the hotend from China by default. They will fix this in future kits I am sure, but this was no issue for me. I have printed all the parts on my Voron, same color scheme as the first ASA, black and NeonYellow. (Holy crap thats a lot of prints) NEXT POST: Unpacking the Formbot KIT.
  16. First build and I must say I'm pretty darned impressed with the Formbot kit. I only had a few issues with the kit. The supplied probe was for the older versions and with the r2 the probe sits level with the nozzle. No power wire supplied for the exhaust fan. One of the BTT TMC2209 quit working while tuning the printer for the first time but thats not really a Formbot issue. Other then that its been great... Lots of extra hardware and I even got lucky with a Raspberry pi4! I'll post some more pics as I finish things up a bit.
  17. Been recommended to start a build diary for others that want to do the same. I'm not good at keeping document so will try my best. All start early late 2020 to early 2021 at the time there are no recommended kit available, to ensure the build quality is good I went with PIF and self sourcing parts. Sign up the PIF to wait for the queue and start to using the voron sourcing guide to order parts not all ships to my country(New Zealand) PIF printed parts showed up first the print is very good worth the wait. Parts I've order did not show up till mid May due to Covid and shipping is very slow, some parts were wrong or was not up to standard I would use in the printer. So had to order replacements from other vender on aliexpress. More parts show up around mid June now I've got enough parts to start the build and wait for more parts to come in.(sorry did not take any photo during the build) This is how far I've got cable chain were not good so have order igus cable chain as show in photo. Also the extrusions kit I got were short of the rear extrusion for the AB drive its on the way to me now should have it next week if tracking is right. I found the extrusion from my mendelmax 1.5 is the right length so used for now. Will start the wiring soon as I finish this post and hope to get it to print by next weekend. Parts I've got on hand to install - Linneo wiring harness, BTT Octopus v1.1, tool head PCB, all electronics parts, heat bed and panels. Not too happy about the heat bed may order a new one if not great once heated. Have been looking at the kits on offer now and the quality is fairly good I would recommend anyone if you are not patient enough try not to self source. Also I've notice more and more vender are showing up that carrying quality parts for the Voron its making things easier for me to order parts to finish and upgrade at the same time.
  18. It took a while to get the nerve up to attempt this build. I have been struggling with speed on my other printers knowing that the limitations were due to the bed sliding back and forth. After a few months of of research and watching the speed benchy challenge, i was and am very sure i found the next printer that i was after. Building a printer is always intimidating no matter how many you have built. I got excited and went for it in the form of a Formbot kit. I looked to sourcing everything myself for about 5 minutes... maybe on the zero i will start next but i have plans for this printer sooner rather than later. I also wanted to build a larger volume printer. soooo friken sold on building this at this point! My counterparts want me to enroll in classes.. i guess 5 printers that are all of different flavors is too much for non-hobbyists to handle in thought. These are the same counterparts that ask for random odds and ends from antennae mounts to cup holders on their off road rigs that i happily and extatically design and print for a beer here and there. The frame was not like anything i have done in the past.. "blind fastening"... lets try it! I spent a few hours getting everything together, double/ triple checking with 2.4.6 blocks clamped in place while i added Loctite and did a final tighten corner by corner. It worked well and everything measured square. At this point i have not gone digging for how to's on YouTube or looked for forums. I got this... next step was installing the bed... i don't got this. The manual did not specify location so to the YouTube i went. Looking at other build logs i decided to wait and install the bed very late in the build closer to the wiring portion. It does not look very complex but something worth locating after the firmware is loaded and you can move the print head around. Weekend 1 in the books! Frame is solid and true...ish...i think. The kids now have a directive to say "OOHHH" whenever i hit a personal milestone in the build when i point out what i have done. The wife shakes her head, smirks, and follows suit, then shakes head again. I am satisfied.
  19. As Stated in the title, this will be my build dairy for my recently purchased Fysetc Kit from Aliexpress. You can see the unboxing images here... The Printed Parts While this is not my first or even 5th printer, this is me first Voron Build. I expect there to be bumps in the road, but it is a learning process. In efforts of getting started quickly, I purchased a complete set of printed parts from Discord User "joshmurrah#2391" - including all the cosmetics. Documentation Issues Last night I started the process of sorting items and thought I was missing a part - I reached out to Josh and he was super quick and helpful to indicate that the part pictured in the V2.4 manual is actually updated and was able to identify very quickly where the parts laid on my photograph of parts on my table. Kudos for the support from Josh - HIGHLY recommended! On page 23 of the current V2.4 Manual, the new part looks like this... For reference, this is a photo pf the current manuals rendition of the Motor mount... Sorting and ID After laying out all my parts, I grouped the items in 6 different bags to help with assembly ensuring that I didn't have to dig through ALL of the parts every-time I wanted to work on the printer build. Please follow this topic for updates and additional information on the build!
  20. Hi, all I have purchased most of my parts for my Voron 2.4 Build. I have PIF parts in hand. I have bought "sub-kits" from different Vendors on the Voron discord channel and then bought the parts that were missing directly from the vendors that the Voron 2.4 BOM recommended. I probably now have enough parts to build two Voron 2.4 3D printers. I wanted a great ABS printer, so I decided to build a 250mm³ build because I did not want to worry about heating up the additional air space if I went with the 300mm³ build. But I also wanted to use the Bigtreetech Octopus Pro board that runs at 48V for the motors. I want my Voron 2.4 to be the BEST 3D printer I own and I am putting only quality parts into her. So I finally decided to sit down and figure out the power requirements for my Voron. You can find my discussion on the power requirements located on my GitHub page : https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log#how-i-calculated-the-power-requirements-for-my-voron-24-build I then sat down to do a wiring diagram for my Voron. So I decided to work on the wiring harness diagram. While doing this I discovered that the Octopus Pro needed a better PIN Diagram. Here is the PIN diagram I did for the Octopus Pro (I worked with Bigtreetech on this). My PIN diagram for the Octopus Pro can be found at https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log#the-pdf-file-of-the-color-pin-diagram-for-the-octopus-pro-v10 After spending two weeks on the Color PIN Diagram. I finally started the work on the wiring harness diagram. I am using a mod (tool head board) and found that information was lacking on the wiring of this type. You can find my wiring harness diagram at https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log#wiring_harness_diagram-for-queen After doing the wiring harness diagram, I am now working on adding the electronics case wiring diagram. But I came across another issue. All the four power supplies I want to use will not fit into the bottom electronic compartment for a 250mm³ Voron! So to get enough space for all my electronics and the 4 PSU, I needed to design my own mod. I am calling this mod the "Litter Box". It is where you put all your good "shit"!. This "Litter Box" is designed to be added to any Voron 2.4 build. It will not require you to buy replacement parts. You will need to buy additional parts. I wanted something that would not require me to purchase a new rear panel. I know about the DOOM mod and that places the "non AC" electronic case on the top of the printer. My "Litter Box" places the "non AC electronics" on the back of the printer. This way the wiring harness does not need to change. Instead of the wiring from the Z chain going to the bottom it will go up the back of the printer (same distance as going underneath the heated bed). I have been through more than 5 revisions of the "Litter Box" mod. I am using Fusion 360 to model the "Litter Box". This litter box will sit on top of the Voron’s rear panel ( I am designing for rear panel widths of 3mm, 4mm and 6mm). You will not be able to use the standard Voron exhaust filter with this mod. I plan on using the nevermore filter system. I am trying to design a mounting system for the mod that uses two DIN rails that are hung on that back but are also used to keep the rear panel attached to the machine. I found the Voron 1.8 electronics case and started this mod based on the work done by the Voron Design Team. Instead of using the feet from the Voron 1.8 case I decided to mirror the support brackets to use as the bottom brackets in the Litter box. Another requirement I want for this mod is that it is hidden from view when looking at the front of the Voron 2.4. I do not want to take away from the beautiful design of the Voron 2.4. To accomplish this requirement I had to move the side panels so they would be in line with the vertical extrusions. This mean offsetting the support brackets to be between the two back vertical extrusions. Another requirement I wanted was that the two side panels for the litter box would not require any holes be cut out. So I designed the brackets to be a solid block so that no additional holes would need to be cut and it give the DIN mount a solid support. Here is a picture of the design so far:
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