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Found 6 results

  1. Version 1.2.5

    20,874 downloads

    This toolhead scales down the body of the Stealthburner to a size which fits into a V0.1/V0.2. Fully assembled it weighs about 120 grams less than the original. It is designed around the Bondtech LGX Lite extruder and has versions for the Phaetus Dragonfly, Dragon and Rapido HF hotends as well as versions for the Mosquito, the Revo Voron and the Creality Spider Pro hotends. It incorporates a status LED as well as two for print visibility. I have added new stretched versions that should fit the Rapido UHF, Dragon UHF and the VolcoMosq hotends. The Dragon UHF and Rapido UHF hotends can fit in the same shroud. The UHF hotends will reduce Z travel by 8.5mm and the VolcoMosq by 3mm. I cannot verify the fitment so if there are any issues please leave a comment. There are now two hex pattern inlays based on the design by 3DP-MAMSIH and a tutorial on how to apply them to the shroud. The negative body feature of Prusa/Super Slicer can also be used to create a crop-top version of the shroud as described at the end of the tutorial. The shroud uses a pair of 4010 blowers which produce more airflow than a 5015 blower while also being notably less noisy and drawing less current. The depth of these fans do limit Y travel by 3mm on a V0.1 while the door is closed and tophat is on. The width of the main body at its base is also a very tight fit at the extremes of X travel. The shroud fits a 3010 hotend fan or a 3007 fan by using a clip-in adapter. The Mini Stealth LGX Lite fits well in a V2.4 or Trident and modified x-frame left and right pieces are included. There is a separate 'strain_relief' stl for use in the V0.1. There are also x-frame pieces that allow this Mini Stealth to be installed on a Switchwire. The nozzle is moved up by 3mm compared to the official Switchwire. The x-frame has geometry that allows a BL-Touch to fit locked between the two pieces. I have included a magnet mount and additional shroud .stl files to make this compatible with the ZeroClick mod. This toolhead also has versions that allow mounting a differential IR sensor. I have removed the mechanical Z endstop on my V0.1 and use the IR probe as an endstop and it has greatly simplified my homing sequence. There are additional x-frame pieces that allow mounting the Beacon3D probe, Euclid or Biqu MicroProbe for a V2.4, Trident or Switchwire. The included Blender file shows the entire assembly complete with screws and should answer most basic questions. Note on MGN-9 installation: The default 2mm x 10 plastic threading screw is too long for mounting the x-axis endstop. An M2 x 8 does the job fine. For mounting to the linear carriage use four M3 x 6 flat-head screws. Note: The MGN carriage shown is an MGN-9H, not the shorter MGN-9C used in the V0.1 mod. Preparation I recommend test fitting the extruder, LGX_lite_adapter_plate, PTFE tube and hotend into the shroud before running any wires to ensure that the PTFE tube length is correct and everything fits. It helps to chamfer the edge of the tube with a sharp blade so that it doesn't snag in the hotend. I is a good idea to use a file to lightly remove any printing artifacts on the mating face of the shroud. All three fans will need the wire retention piece clipped so the wires fit into the shroud channels easier. Use a small file to smooth out the break-off edges of the LED PCB and make sure the LED pockets are clear of 'droopy bits' Differential IR Probe Installation The IR Probe needs to be screwed into place with two M2.5x8 FHCS before installing any of the fans, except with the VolcoMosq or UHF hotends where the probe needs to be glued on with CA glue. The Y-offset for this probe is 4mm in front of the nozzle and the X-offset is 32mm. I strongly recommend removing the 3-pin header and soldering wires directly to the probe PCB. When installed the wires will route out from the back of the IR probe cover to then join with the hotend and fan wires. I have included a cover to allow a connector at the probe but the wire management will be less than ideal.. Assembly Instructions After pressing the status LED diffuser into place, install the right part-cooling fan first by feeding the wires through the small hole at the bottom. Then feed the wires for the status LED and hotend fan through before starting to push the LED carrier into position. Carefully push the status LED carrier as far as it will go and press the fan into position while making sure not to pinch the part-cooling fan wires. Then press the remaining LEDs into their slots. (I measure out 35mm of wire to connect these LEDs together) Here is another view also showing how the hotend fan wires fit through the hole on the side of the status LED carrier. Insert the second part-cooling fan and splice the wires together with the first fan. Install the hotend with at least two M2.5x6 screws (M3x6 for the Revo Voron). The heater cartridge should be installed away from the LEDs to avoid overheating them. ( ** don't forget the PTFE tube ) Pre-assemble the extruder pieces before installing into the shroud. Use M3x30 screws to attach motor_bridge. Install the extruder with an M3x6 BHCS on the back and then an M3x12 from below. Ensure the cables are routed as flat to the shroud as possible and secure them with zip ties. Install the strain_relief or cable_chain_mount with two M3x8 screws and the cable_door with another M3x8 screw. Close the cable door with an M3x6 screw. Use two M3x40 BHCS to secure the toolhead to the x-carriage in a V0.1/V0.2. For installation in a Trident or V2.4 use two M3x50 BHCS. Happy Printing!
  2. Version 1.0.0

    15 downloads

    Probe Mount with ADXL for PCB Klicky Use the free space above the PCB Klicky Probe for an ADXL! This mount is a new variant of: https://github.com/tanaes/whopping_Voron_mods/tree/main/pcb_klicky ADXL345: https://amzn.eu/d/dJvU8Zh ADXL345 is attached with 2 M2.5 screws. I didn't solder the JST-XH 3 pin header to the PCB Klicky board, but soldered the cables directly to the board. There is not enough space for the header. happy printing!
  3. Version 1.0.1

    556 downloads

    This model is for the PCB Klicky probe available from Fysetc, as featured in the Whopping Voron Mods pack - whopping_Voron_mods/pcb_klicky at main · tanaes/whopping_Voron_mods · GitHub PCB Klicky is based on 2 mods - Klicky Probe by JosAr and Euclid Probe. I really didn't like the original dock that came in the mod pack, I found it to be very fiddly and ineffective for holding the probe. This replaces the dock-front_insert.stl file from the pack. This dock has an enlarged hole on the front to fit the magnet attached to the probe, it also has a space behind big enough to fit a 6x3mm magnet to help hold the probe in place. As well a this, it has tabs on the top to cover the klicky while docking and undocking. This model should be printed upright (as loaded when opened in your slicer) with Voron specs. Tested and working on one of my custom 2.4r2's I went through 2 other iterations of this design before settling on the one that's uploaded; V1 kept to the height of the original dock, however, was slightly too tight all over and didn't have the back magnet mounting. V2 saw an increase in the height of the tabs, allowing for slightly more space to rest the PCB. This proved to be a better fit, but I wasn't happy with the sizing of the front magnet hole - in this iteration I included the back magnet hole. V3 saw an increase in the hole sizing on the front, this enables the probe to dock and undock effortlessly, with no thought. **ADDED 28th JUNE 2023** I have also now made a side mount to attach probe to an adjustable docking station - I use a Volcano hotend and the standard dock isn't long enough, also the side mount doesn't fit the adjustable mount. This enables you to use a longer print head and still use things like the nozzle scrub mod
  4. I dont know the official name, guess thats the problem... But its this Klicky... https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005005023158174.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2nld Looking for some pointers on it.. EDIT: FOUND IT https://github.com/tanaes/whopping_Voron_mods/tree/main/pcb_klicky WHOPPING.. yeah... that was it..
  5. Initially setting up my Voron 2.4 build I am now at the point of checking the probe. Since I didn't get any signal from the Octopus, I checked the wiring. The config is a clicky probe on the Stealthburner with a PCB. I have now found out that the signal line seems to have its break on the board. The signal line has no connection between the three-pin JST and the 14-pin Molex. Can it be that there is an error on the PCB or is there another reason for this? As a next step, I would solder the signal line directly to the pin of the Molex connector
  6. Version 2022.03.31

    2,321 downloads

    This is an intermediate/advanced configuration, it's recommended to first build your Voron to the stock configuration That way, you will be better familiarized with the concepts that are presented here and will have a much more enjoyable experience. With an integrated mount, the bed can be fully used during printing, the bed only cannot be probed (at most) 6mm on the left side, this is due to the design of the probe, that extends below the nozzle. There are currently two other probes available to use on the V0.1, Slideswipe and Sideswipe. Above all, have fun and be excellent to one another, the instructions on how to install and setup the klicky probe for Vorondesign V0(.1) can be found [here](https://github.com/jlas1/Klicky-Probe/tree/main/Printers/Voron/v0), or below on this download For me, and for a lot of users, it is working very well, if you decide to use it, give me feedback, either here, or on discord, my discord user is JosAr#0517. By standing on the shoulders of giants, let's see if we can see further. Mounting options Probe dock mount The probe dock is mounted to the front right extrusion, where it minimizes the chance of being removed inadvertently during printing, like this: There are several mounting options, depending on your setup: It can be frustrating on the v0 to add extra m3 nuts on the 1515 extrusion after the assembly is complete, so there are several screwless probe dock options to avoid that scenario. Screwless variable Fixed Fixed extrabeef Top screws Side screws recommended for most setups, does not require extra m3 nuts on the extrusion (v0.0/1) fixed position, does not require extra m3 nuts on the extrusion (v0.1) fixed, fits X carriages that are 2mm thicker, does not require extra m3 nuts on the extrusion(v0.1) fixed, requires 2 extra m3 nuts on the top extrusion (v0.1) fixed, requires 2 extra m3 nuts on the front extrusion (v0.1) There are also some more mounting options on Usermods, like a servo powered dock. Check it out Probe toolhead mount The v0 toolhead was not designed to use a probe, so there is no inbuilt location to add one, so i designed two options for the v0.1 variant and one for the original v0. Front cowling mount (v0.1) You can install a mount the attaches to the front of the toolhead cowling, it will need 2/3mm of X space on the front right of the bed to avoid picking the probe up by accident, it is very easy to install, it's ideal to test the concept of probing on the v0.1 You will require 2x M3 x 40mm (BHSC preferably) that are not on the V0(.1) BOM, there is an included wire path with zip tie support, to keep your printer looking good. Integrated cowling (v0.1) You can replace the cowling with a version that has a cutout to allow the klicky mount to attach, it has no impact on the cooling performance of the probe, it also includes a wire path to the back of the miniAB. This method allow mounting of different probes on the V0.1, currently only klicky uses this mount, hopefully that can change in the future. It also allows to pick up the probe at X121, effectively outside the bed, incurring in a no print space lost. Fan duct mount (v0.0) On the V0.0, you do not need to reprint the entire cowlink, you only need to replace the right fan duct with a version that has a mount for klicky, it has no impact on the cooling performance of the probe, it also includes a wire path to the back of the miniAB. This version has seen little tests because of the lack of a sufficient number of v0.0 to test on. If you end up using this version, please tell me at what X do you dock and attach the probe. It is also necessary to use the Screwless variable dock mount Bill of Materials (BOM) Tools: 1.5mm Drill (optional) Multimeter to check for Continuity Super Glue (optional) Soldering Iron Probe: 1x microswitch (the omron D2F-5 or D2F-5L (removing the lever is required), other also work with reduced accuracy or repeatability (mostly anecdotal evidence, needs a proper sudy) 2x M2x10 mm self tapping 10cm of 22AWG cable (to wire the magnets to the switch) 5x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets (N35 magnets work) Probe mount: Front cowling mount (v0.1) Integrated cowling mount (v0.1) Fan duct mount (v0.0) 4x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets (N35 magnets work) 4x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets (N35 magnets work) 4x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets (N35 magnets work) 2x 20cm 22AWG cable (to connect the Klicky Probe to the umbilical termination point) 2x 20cm 22AWG cable (to connect the Klicky Probe to the umbilical termination point) 2x 20cm 22AWG cable (to connect the Klicky Probe to the umbilical termination point) two wires to connect the controller to the extruder motor vicinity two wires to connect the controller to the extruder motor vicinity two wires to connect the controller to the extruder motor vicinity 2x M3 x 40mm BHSC 1x M3x6 mm BHSC Screw 1x M3x6 mm BHSC Screw 1x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx4 mm 2x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx4 mm Probe dock: 1x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets (N35 magnets work) 2x M3x16 mm Probe dock mounts: Screwless variable (v0.0/1) Fixed (v0.1) Fixed extrabeef (v0.1) Top screws (v0.1) Side screws (v0.1) 2x m3 nut 2x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx4 mm 2x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx4 mm 2x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx4 mm 2x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx4 mm 2x m3x8 mm 2x m3x8 mm Sourcing To get the best experience, please consider purchasing from the trusted list of suppliers bellow. trusted suppliers list Parts location The probe STL's are located here. The printer specific STL's are located here. The CAD with all the parts are here. What to print Probe 2x KlickyProbe_Long_v2.stl (keeping a spare is always a good idea) The KlickyProbe_v2.stl is also compatible, but has a different Y offset and cannot probe all the bed. Helpers to pressfit the probe magnet Probe_magnet_pressfit_helper.stl Probe_magnet_holder.stl Longer_probe_pressfit_helper.stl Probe mount Front cowling mount (v0.1) Integrated cowling mount (v0.1) Fan duct mount (v0.0) Front_cowling_mount.stl MiniAB_Dragon_Cowling_wKlicky.stl V0_Fan_duct_wKlicky.stl v0.1_integrated_mount.stl v0.1_integrated_mount.stl v0_integrated_mount.stl There are also other integrated cowlings, check the [STL] folder, namely, the Serpa_Mini_Dragon_Cowling_wKlicky.stl from Kyrios and the LGX Lite cowling from Bondtech. Probe dock Probe_Dock_v2.stl Probe dock mounts Screwless variable (v0.0/1) Fixed (v0.1) Fixed extrabeef (v0.1) Top screws (v0.1) Side screws (v0.1) DockMount_variable.stl DockMount_fixed.stl DockMount_extrabeef.stl DockMount_TopScrews.stl DockMount_SideScrews.stl Printing instructions Recommended printing settings: initial layer height:0,24 layer height: 0.2mm bottom/top/perimeters: 4 infill: more than 23% infill type: Cubic Thin walls: On It was tested and printed with ABS, might work on other materials, if you try, let me know how it worked out. Typical V0.1 components (the images with the green background were provided by user SunB#1489 and are being used with permission). Assembly Step 1 - Dock mount and Probe Dock assembly In this examples, the Fixed dock will be used. 2x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx 4 mm 1x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets 2x M3x16 mm Super Glue Here we will use the Fixed dock as an example, the other docks are very similar. Install your heat set threaded inserts like you did within your Voron build. Install the magnet in the Probe dock, make sure that the magnet is fully inserted, it's top should be below the plastic. Screw the dock onto the Dock mount with the two M3x16mm screws. Secure the magnet with a dab of super glue (not a lot, just a drop). Mount the Probe Dock to the front right extrusion, snap first on the front extrusion, then on the top one (do this after assembling the probe). Step 2: Probe Assembly For the probe assembly you need the following parts: 1x microswitch 2x M2x10 mm self tapping 5x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets 10cm of 22AWG cable 1.5mm Drill (optional) Multimeter to check for Continuity Super Glue Maybe you need to clear the holes for the microswitch, a 1.5mm drill bit should work fine. Install the microswitch so that the arrow on the probe body is pointing to the little switch. The best way to install the back magnet is to attach a magnet to the probe dock and slide the probe on the dock to insert some distance and the insert he remaining with a tool, it should be slightly below the plastic. Then take your self tapping screws and screw the microswitch in place, you should also now solder the wires to the outside pins of the switch, that way making this a Normally Connected probe. You should place the wires cover outside the ducts to the magnets and install them in the space below the magnets, more like the right wire is on the image below. You want to install the magnets in the way that the ones which are connected to the microswitch, have the same polarity. Before placing the switch magnets, use some super glue on the holes (not a lot, just a drop), avoid the wires and the top of the magnets. The 3rd magnets (there are two) should have the inverse polarity, wait until the system is complete and assembled before gluing the magnets, they might need adjustment to ensure a good fit on the mount. You can use the included pressfit helpers to help in securing the probe when you are inserting the magnets. There is no need for soldering, the probe microswitch connectors are press-fit on the magnets, they should remain with the top above the probe plastic. As the last step of the probe assembly check if you have continuity between two magnets that connect to the switch. If you have a normally closed switch (as you should), then you should have a current flow, so continuity is established. When you press the switch you should lose continuity. When you have a normally open switch then the behavior is the other way around. Step 3: Probe mount Assembly In this example, the Front cowling mount will be used. For the Front cowling mount assembly you need the following parts 4x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets 2 x 20cm 22AWG cable to connect the Klicky Probe to the Mircofit Terminal two wires to connect the controller to the extruder motor vicinity some microfit or JST hardware 2x M3 x 40mm BHSC Multimeter to check for Continuity Super Glue The probe mount wires are also connected with pressure from the magnets, you can use the probe magnets as a template to insert the probe mount magnets, it is easier that way, so that the magnets are not inserted the wrong way. again, before placing the wire magnets, use some super glue on the holes (not a lot, just a drop), avoid the wires and the top of the magnets. The 3rd magnets (there are two) should have the inverse polarity, exacly like on the probe. Wait until the system is complete and assembled before gluing the 3rd magnets, they might need adjustment to ensure a good fit on the probe. (The mount has since been improved a bit to avoid cracking) After everything is assembled let's check again for continuity, this time joining the ends of the cable and testing connectivity on the two wire magnets that have a cable. Step 4: Probe Mount installation and wiring For the installation you need the following parts: 2x M3x40 mm BHSC Screws Route the probe mount cables to near the end of the V0 umbilical, install a male terminal in there. Before going further, please turn off the printer, the SKR boards are very picky with short circuits. Connect a female terminal to the wires that will run in the umbilical from the toolhead to the controller. Connect the wires from the Klicky Probe to the Zprobe port, on GND and PC14 bin (I reused the LDO kit connector) When testing the docking and attachment of the probe, make sure that the back magnet of the probe and the dock magnet do not touch, if they do, it will make attaching the probe much harder. Step 5: klipper configuration Unfortunately, I do not know how to document RRF probe configuration, so here is only Klipper configurations. As of right now, klipper and RRF have no inbuilt support for a removable probe, fortunately, it does support very robust macro programming, so you will need to add macros to be able to dock and attach the probe as necessary, as well as supporting the rest of the functions that require the usage of a probe. The macros and instructions on how to configure are located on the Macro directory, you need to check that before continuing on the build, there are also some RRF scripts that work for the Voron V2.4. For the Voron v0, these are the recommended configuration on the klicky-variables.cfg: variable_verbose: True # Enable verbose output variable_travel_speed: 100 # how fast all other travel moves will be performed when running these macros variable_dock_speed: 50 # how fast should the toolhead move when docking the probe for the final movement variable_release_speed: 55 # how fast should the toolhead move to release the hold of the magnets after docking variable_z_drop_speed: 20 # how fast the z will lower when moving to the z location to clear the probe variable_safe_z: 25 # Minimum Z for attach/dock and homing functions # if true it will move the bed away from the nozzle when Z is not homed variable_enable_z_hop: True # True v0 #Dock move Variable_dockmove_x: 0 # Final toolhead movement to release Variable_dockmove_y: 40 # the probe on the dock Variable_dockmove_z: 0 # (can be negative) #Attach move Variable_attachmove_x: 30 # Final toolhead movement to Dock Variable_attachmove_y: 0 # the probe on the dock Variable_attachmove_z: 0 # (can be negative) variable_max_bed_x: 120 # maximum Bed size avoids doing a probe_accuracy outside the bed variable_max_bed_y: 120 # maximum Bed size avoids doing a probe_accuracy outside the bed The sections below should be added to klicky-specific.cfg, that way, it will be loaded on klipper via a klicky-probe.cfg include. If you would like to use a bed mesh, this is the recommended settings: [bed_mesh] mesh_min: 15,15 mesh_max: 105,105 speed: 100 horizontal_move_z: 20 probe_count: 3,3 #if you would like more detail, use 5,5 here relative_reference_index: 4 #if you use 5,5 above, place 12 here move_check_distance: 3 algorithm: lagrange fade_start: 1 fade_end: 10 fade_target: 0 split_delta_z: 0.0125 mesh_pps: 2,2 Regarding the Screws Tilt Adjust (Klipper probes the three screws positions and recommends the number of turns to level the bed), you can use this configuration as a reference, the probe should be over the screws when you do send the nozzle to the respective coordinate: [screws_tilt_adjust] screw1: 100,115 #For Long probe screw1_name: back right screw2: 0,115 #For Long probe screw2_name: back left screw3: 60,5 #For Long probe screw3_name: front screw horizontal_move_z: 20 speed: 100 screw_thread: CW-M3 You should test this and adjust accordingly. This is probe configuration is with the default Voron v0.1 SKR mini E3 v2 configuration, with the probe connected to the PC14 pin, please update it to your specific configuration: [probe] #with Long Klicky Probe pin: ^PC14 x_offset: 8 #(9.5 with front cowling) y_offset: 0 z_offset: 14.5 speed: 7 lift_speed: 7 samples: 3 samples_result: median sample_retract_dist: 2 samples_tolerance: 0.01 samples_tolerance_retries: 10 I recommend a probing speed between 5mm/s and 10mm/s, you may experiment to see what is the better speed for your machine. Please confirm that if you are not using a endstop pin, that the pull-up is enable by using the ^ sign, normally the endstop pins have a hardware solution that does not require this configuration. Depending on your switch you may need to add a ! to invert that pin (normally open vs. normally closed). Z endstop and Probe configuration If you want to use the Klicky Probe as your Z endstop, you need to change the endstop_pin: under the [stepper_z] section to probe:z_virtual_endstop. Just comment out the old one and add a new line endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop. You will need to update the Z probing variables, set the two variables below to 0, it will probe the middle of the bed. variable_z_endstop_x: 0 variable_z_endstop_y: 0 Assembled Klicky Probe Step 6: klipper Dock/Undock configuration X max position adjustment Even in the stock X endstop with a lever, you normally can add a extra mm of X travel due to the lever extra trigger distance: [stepper_x] position_endstop: 120 position_max: 121 Adjust Probe Pickup Position One of the last things we need to do is to adjust the probe pickup position. Make sure that the x and y axis are homed and the probe is manually attached to mount. Now manually (with gcode commands) move the toolhead to the probe dock and move it so far to the back that the probe docks, note the Y-Position. Next, again manually, move the toolhead parallel to the probe dock until the probe it is perfectly aligned with the mount, note the X.Position. Open your klicky-variables.cfg and find the #dock location section and edit the following two line variable_docklocation_x: variable_docklocation_y: Test now with the ATTACH_PROBE and DOCK_PROBE if it docks and is removed correctly, some common points that can give problems are: the dock magnet is touching the back probe magnet, they cannot touch, push them further in the probe is hitting the dock arms, please move the toolhead more to the side where the probe does not hit, by 1mm at a time, until it works the probe is falling after being release, the dock is too far away, you can insert one or several 1mm spacer to move the dock and solve this WARNING when you are doing PROBE_ACCURACY, make sure that the probe is above the bed, the PROBE_ACCURACY macro does not move the toolhead in X or Y. Congratulations, your done :). Firsts tests Before starting to test klicky, and from past mistakes, please remove your PEI sheet (the probe works on the magnetic sheet) and if possible, change your printer maximum speed, acceleration and Z current, on klipper with TMC steppers, you can do this: SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_z CURRENT=0.2 SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT ACCEL=1000 SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT VELOCITY=50 Enjoy your Klicky Probe! Dock and undock video It is working very well, if you decide to use it, give me feedback, either here, or on discord, my discord user is JosAr#0517. By standing on the shoulders of giants, lets see if we can see further.
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