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Found 13 results

  1. Finally I have the parts which I self source ready. This web help you make your mind for the color. # Plan for my build: 1. 350 x 350 build 2. Octopus Pro 446 + TMC2209 3. Raspberry Pi 3B + 4. EBB36 Canbus 5. PITFT5 6. PI cam 7. Smoke detection alarm 8. Rapido 9. Octoprint 10. Klipper 11. Octodash 12. Klicky 13. Filament runout Unklicky 14. PurgeBucket & Nozzle brush 15. Sensorless Homing 16. Sexbolt 17. Nevermore filter and more filter 18. Some sort of removable panel and door with magnets. 19. Rolling Voron 20. Boot from SSD drive 21. LED LED LED and LED 22. Umbilical cord 23. Relocation chain 24. More on fire hazard prevent and protection 25. Remote monitor Since I source every part by myself so it's a waiting game. Then I started to order PIF from @Stephan (discord username). He kindly helps me find a way to deliver to me with a cheaper fee from Germany. Thanks for that. # PIF Here are the bags of the main printer part for Voron 2.4 R2 Rapido. All the parts from the bag. Accent color is orange. 1st bag base color. 2nd bag base color. 3rd bag base color. Below here you can look at the print quality from PIF.
  2. I'll add my self sourced 250 Trident build to the diaries. This is my first Voron, and second printer. I started out with a Prusa Mini+ kit and enjoyed the build so much that I started looking more seriously at the Vorons. I did look while doing initial research, but the full DIY nature was intimidating at the time; the Mini has been a great learning printer both for building and printing. In the process of researching I found the Voron Discord, this forum, and Nero & Steve's Youtube channels. Lurking, reading, and ultimately starting to ask dumb questions has taught me a lot in a short time. So I started with the Voron configurator to get my BOM, then grabbed the matching info off the sourcing guide to start finding where to buy parts. I spent quite a while learning about many of the components to determine what the best cost vs quality balance is for me. In the process, I found the popular vendors supplying the hobby. I built myself a spreadsheet to track & manage the list of parts and my often-shifting plans of what to buy and from whom. I started purchases taking advantage of sales on Aliexpress, and just accelerated the process after witnessing the Voron Hug and general supply chain issues. If something is in stock these days, you probably want to buy now rather than wait. So the list of vendors I've used are: 3D Maker Parts Amazon Aliexpress DFH Grainger KB-3D Mandala Rose Works PiHut Push Plastics Sparta 3D West 3D I tried to minimise the orders and take advantage of free shipping triggers as much as possible, so I didn't get hit too hard with that forgotten cost. A few redirected sources due to out of stock situations; PiHut most notable--had to order the board from the UK after the things became unobtanium. The last part to get is ironically the frame. I'm being picky and want the LDO blue kit which has not been available. As I was composing this I checked again, and unexpectedly got a hit on KB-3D, who now has them! So all parts are now ordered. I've spent the last week getting my Mini prepped for printing up the parts for the Trident. So I now have a full set of spare parts in PETG, which itself was a learning experience. I have to move the OctoPi from a separate case to the integrated electronics box lid. That is to help fit everything under the original box for the Mini as my cheap enclosure for ABS printing. Next step is to get some ABS test prints so I can dial that in, then start printing parts. EDIT: I should probably also list the mods I am incorporating into the initial build: hartk SexBolt Z endstop. hartk Z endstop PCB randell XY endstop PCB jeoje 4.3" Waveshare touchscreen with Steve's modified skirt. hernsl magnetic bottom panel clips Steve's no tape skirt fan mounts chrisgonzales 270° door hinges Nero's idler bearing stack in place of toothed idler change
  3. Hi All, I was encouraged to do a build diary but straight off the bat I am not a document type guy lol . Long story short I was off work for the Christmas holiday period and somehow ended up getting drawn into the Voron world. After watching a few too many youtube videos I decided to jump in at the deep end and started placing orders. Did not opt for a full kit as I wanted some control over what went into the system if I was going to spend this much on yet another "hobby" The parts have started trickling in but due to the order they are arriving I think I may have to wait till its all here to see some real progress. This may end up being a slow build depending on some order delays and how much I can stretch a day. I could not help myself though and started the basic frame ensuring it is all square. Since the rails were also in that order I cleaned them up with 91% IA (what I had at this time) and greased them. I used a grease which was readily available and closely matched the spec for Mobilux EP2 but since I do not really know the consistency(fluidity?) of the Mobilux EP2 this one has the carriage sliding down from top in lets say 2-3 secs. I compared this to a rail I have from a system I tried to build a few years ago and had never cleaned. That carriage drops almost instantly if I flip it vertically. So my question would be with the new ones greased up what kind of movement am I aiming for? Instant drop like the old rail or a consistent slide down the rail? Thanks and hopefully I can keep this thread updated with my progress...will post some parts that have arrived.
  4. History I am a proud Aquila owner... or used to be. I modded its electronics, the Z-drive, the extruder, added extra part cooling and swapped out the fan duct, made the heatbreak all-metal, encased it, klipperized it, made it virtually silent (fan+electronics mods), added a BLTouch, exchanged the glass plate for powdered PEI, added better bed springs... and honestly, based on other prints I've seen both IRL and online, its print quality could put a lot of premium printers to shame now. But still I've become dissatisfied with this bedslinger. Obviously my mods solved many of its initial issues, but I still constantly fight with first-layer adhesion and can never use the whole bed. Also, some components often need maintenance every few prints. Add to this that printing ABS is still problematic, and printing anything tall is impossible at humane speeds due to the moving bed, I've decided: I'm gonna build myself a Voron The Goals My choice fell to the Trident in its 300mm size. My expectations is that when it is done, it should be much more reliable than my current printer, and I'll also get a larger build volume and better ABS printability. I guess it will also end up being faster which is certainly good, but that really is only a secondary goal for me. Let's see if I can make it. Right from the start I am planning with a bunch of mods (checkmark indicates finished installation): ✓ Galileo2 extruder ✓ TAP ✓ CAN with umbilical cable ✓ Kinematic bed mount ✓ Y-axis backers ✓ WobbleX ✓ An ultra-flat bed from MRW (without integrated magnets) ✓ BFI ✓ Magnetic acrylic panels ✓ Chamber thermistor ✓ Nevermore filter (also acting as bed fans) ✓ Chamber lighting ✓ Voron Revo hotend ✓ Nozzle brush and purge bucket About the mods Just a few days ago, the Galileo2 (well, it's public beta) was announced and a small stock even became available with instant delivery (no waiting until sometime in october) at a local store. I might have gone into over-hype mode, but I am intrigued by the G2 and since it was optimized first and foremost for extrusion consistency, I decided I'll order one and ditch my Clockwork2 even though I already ordered the parts for it a week ago. Before the G2, my plan was to mod the CW2 with Bondtech's IDGA. The G2 is also supposed to be quieter which I also welcome: I've been told that Vorons can be pretty loud to begin with, and considering that my current printer is very silent, I'm already afraid the contrast in noise levels will be uncomfortable. So any help is welcome. I'm sure a lot of people would question the inclusion of the WobbleX. Well, I fervently dug through many forums and the Voron Discord before assembling my BOM, and even though most people claim they don't have problems with Z-banding, it also doesn't seem to be an unheard phenomenon on the Trident or similar printers (like the V-Core). I decided I'd rather get rid of the problem from the get-go even if there is a good chance I might not need it. Don't judge me please. The bed stuff with the MRW bed, kinematic mounts and backers are due to my first-layer traumas from my current printer. Besides, the kinematic mount might also save a lot of time when doing smaller prints by not having to wait for the printer to warm up. Let's see if this theory holds up in practice. For the backers I ordered linear guides. This sounds like a Gucci move but not at all. Rails that serve as backers don't have the same quality requirements as the rails with the actual carriages, so these can be dirt-cheap. Hence I ordered the cheapest set I could find on Aliexpress. This way, price was not only lower than Titanium backers, but at the same time I'll even get better print results. You might not want to do this though if you're not building an umbilical toolhead, as the cable chain would be in the way. My build's umbilical though, so no problem here. The reason for the Nevermore, chamber thermistor and bed fans should be obvious: All for the sake of printing ABS. Related to this are the magnetic acrylic sheets. Being magnetic will allow me to easily remove them or snap them back in, making it a child's play to switch from ABS to PLA and back. I did not include the pinmod. This mod is so strange. It seems to be extremely popular, it is present in many kits, and if not in a kit a very large portion of users still implement it. All this despite not having seen a single post or analysis or report where it actually made things better. If experts or highly-respected members of the Voron community are asked, they unanimously claim this is a useless mod and there is no reason to include it. So I left it out based on multiple people's advice and I'm glad I did: I'm past assembling the idlers in the build process, and what I see now myself is that the pinmod should not make any difference (the screws/pins are not what the bearings directly rotate around), so it is no surprise if it doesn't. IMHO, the pinmod is basically snake-oil. Maybe not really a mod, but it might be worth noting I opted for a BTT Pi+U2C in the electronics compartment. The nice thing about this is two-fold: First, the BTT Pi can be powered by 24V directly, so you save the space and cabling for a separate 5V PSU. Second, the U2C can piggy-back on the BTT Pi, saving again space and cabling. There is enough space so it's not like you need to save it, but this will make everything much tidier, neater and even easier to wire up. I'll completely ditch the screen. My current printer has one but I still use it exclusively over the Fluidd web-UI only. I know I won't need a screen on my Voron by experience. The self-sourcing My self-sourcing experience was a mixed-bag at first. It is very time-intensive, for me it cost multiple days all things considered. I fully understand if not all people are willing to go through this process. The upside is you can control the brands and quality of the components, whereas with kits this is either unknown or at least might fluctuate. It might be tempting to think that self-sourcing is cheaper, but this depends on a lot of factors: what components you already have, what components are redundant to you in the kit due to future mods, how is component availability in stores, and even where you live (due to VAT amount or shipping costs). You also need to optimize shipments to order from as few stores as possible. Simply taking a kit's price and adding those of my components that weren't in the kit doesn't offer a full picture, and I didn't make this calculation. Of course, at first glance the completed BOM ended up being much more expensive than a kit, totaling to about 2400 EUR incl. VAT and shipping. This might sound scary compared to a kit's price that sells for around 1500 EUR, but considering all the extra stuff I ordered (PIF parts, TAP, CAN, MRW bed, Delta fans, WobbleX, Kinematic mount, twice the extruder, a quality crimping tool and allen-key set, chamber lighting, ...), I think I did pretty good. I am not sure a kit would have been cheaper, and even if it were, not by much. Unfortunately, I also used to be pretty sure that even if I saved some money by self-sourcing, I did not save much. Frankly, between all the extra time, work and headache it might not have been worth it. At least that's what I thought at first. Then yesterday, I saw Lecktor's announcement about their fully-modded all-extra 2.4 kits. Yeah, I know it's a 2.4 and not a Trident. Yeah, I see the mods list is different from my own. Still, it is a lot more comparable BOM to my build than any other kit. Their prices start at ~2200EUR (excl. VAT!), so this makes me think I have grossly underestimated the money I saved by self-sourcing. What do you think? The build I started building last weekend (16. Sept). The printed parts are PIF parts and I have nothing to complain about. They are made out of FormFutura's "Premium ABS", the accent color being "Ocean Blue". Unfortunately, the guys at Lecktor were in sleep mode apparently and they did not ship my order for a whole week. This resulted in most mechanical stuff having arrived on time except for the Lecktor parcel. Since that parcel contains all the Z-drive components and all the non-backer rails, all I could do for now is assemble the frame and the idlers. Nevertheless, the first mod is in place Squareness seems good. This is not exact but deviations between diagonals seem to be around or under 0.5mm. I built the frame on my kitchen countertop to help with that (the bench in the picture is not it), and I did not need to do any readjusting afterwards. The bed got the Keenovo heater applied but is waiting for the GraviFlex foil (also in the Lecktor parcel arrgh...). To be continued... (don't worry, the rest of the posts should be shorter, lol)
  5. Hello all, As suggested to me in my intro thread I guess I will start this one as a place to document my Voron 2.4 build. I have had a Voxelab Aquila for the last couple years and have modded and worked that poor thing into the ground and have decided that I enjoy this hobby enough to make a big upgrade. Here is what I am planning and where I am as of today: Voron 2.4 350x350 direct drive CW2, E3D Revo all sourced parts with some smaller kits thrown in where it makes sense. I have a LDO frame kit in space grey on the way from KB-3D, along with a Tensor hardware kit. ACM deck, back and top panels coming from print solid. I ordered my 440C sus linear rails from Robotdig and Din 3 rail from Digikey. I attempted to start printing the ABS parts on my printer but its been problematic at best so I went ahead and ordered the functional parts from 3D pros Etsy shop in black and grey. I think that about covers it for now and figure this should get me started. I will update with pics after I get the first round of parts in and get started. Tim
  6. # Overview Red 350x350x250 frame + Fire Engine Red ABS+ parts Stealthburner + Clockwork 2 + Revo Voron Manta M5P + CB1 + TMC2209 + CAN LDO Motors Tap Tap Tap! Mods! (will get to those later) # Parts list (will edit as things change) Motion POWGE VORON Trident Motion Set (AliExpress) 2 × LDO Stepper Motor (42STH48-2004MAH) (OneTwo3D) 3 × LDO Linear Stepper Motor (42STH40-1684L300E) (OneTwo3D) CNA 440C Stainless Steel Rails and Carriage (AliExpress) Misc FYSETC Voron Trident Screws Nuts Full Kit 3D Printer Screws Full Kit (AliExpress) FYSTEC Frame (AliExpress) 10*11mm Mini Energy Nylon Drag Chain (AliExpress) PET Braided Wire Sleeving (AliExpress) *MOD* Adam Hall - set of black rubber feet - 38x33 mm (Amazon) *MOD* 2 x Daylight on a stick XXL (PrintyPlease) Toolhead E3D 24V Rapid Change Revo™, Voron 1.75mm Fully Loaded Upgrade Kit (Amazon) RNC Nano Coated Gear DDB Extruder (Trianglelab) Delta 5015 (BFB0524HH) (PrintyPlease) Sunon MF40101VX-1000U-G99 (Digikey) Voron Tap 5V (PrintyPlease) *MOD* Rainbow Barf LEDs + Resin printed lens (PrintyPlease) Stealthburner RGBW LEDs (PrintyPlease) LDO-36STH20-1004AHG(XH) motor (Biqu) *MOD* BIGTREETECH EBB SB2240 CAN V1.0 for Voron StealthBurner (Biqu) Bed 8mm Thick Trident Bed 355mm (PrintyPlease) *MOD* Whoppingpochard's Maxwell Kinematic mounts for Voron Trident (PrintyPlease) VORON Full-size Bed Heater (Magicphoenix) CatBed 355mm PEI Flexplate with Magnet (PrintyPlease) Electronics bay BIGTREETECH Manta M5P Control Board with CB1 (Biqu) IEC-GS-1-100 (Digikey) MeanWell UHP-200-24 (Magicphoenix) SCHAFFNER FN2060-16-06 16A (bought new from eBay) Sensata / Crydom D24110PG (bought new from eBay) Sunon FAN AXIAL 60X20MM 24VDC (Digikey) 3 x BIGTREETECH TMC2209 V1.3 Stepper Motor Driver (Biqu) *MOD* Meanwell UHP-200-48 Power Supply (PrintyPlease) *MOD* 2 x Makerbase MKS TMC5160-PRO 8-60VDC Stepper Motor Driver (AliExpress) # The frame I'd say this Fystec frame is more magenta than red, but either way, I think it looks great. # Printing time I'm printing parts on an Ender 3 V2, in a cold garage. I started in November but had to wait till Mid-January before temperatures were above 0c. The first results weren't great... eSUN ABS+ spool was full of tangles which caused failed prints But eventually, some prints started to emerge! To be continued...
  7. Hi guys, here is the current status of my build, im waiting for the cable chains to proceed with the eletronic wiring. The plan is also to use a octopus v1.1 + ebb36 for the toolhead, while crimping i decided to remove most of the cables and can is the way to go. Self sourced parts, and a fermio enclosure.
  8. Hi All So I've been planning to build a Trident for the last year and I now have all the non-printed parts. I bought some from via BOM links or comparable sources and eventually purchased a partial Magic Phoenix kit to fill-out parts I was missing. I printed the parts in the image around 10 months ago, so some of the parts are out of date. I'm also not 100% sure about the colour. This is a ABS filament available in Australia from a company called 3dFillies. I have some Fillamentum ASA Extrafill in traffic red and black which I could use instead. Comments?
  9. Have all the hardware for the build - self sourced late last year. Looking at options and the escalation in postage costs, this I feel is no longer a viable way to go. Kits in the end work out much cheaper and that is the way I will go in future. Looking at kits on Formbot's Aliexpress store, the delivery times to Australia is within 6 weeks. And the kits are approximately 500AUD cheaper than locally sourced kits from Formbot. Enough of this and on to the build. Frame done and parts printing. As @Buurman, planning a few mods with the build and even though the Switchwire is not meant to be enclosed, it will be. Will be a slow build but definitely not as drawn out, as was the 2.4r2 build. Lets start: -Individually self sourced parts Parts being printed on the newly build V2.4008. Color scheme will be Blue, White and Black. Frame assembled: (Build on a mirror) And yes, I have a Raspi Pi4 and some spare: @smirk I am not a hoarder - just plan ahead - you know for those rainy days.
  10. Hello everyone, I will try to share with you this big adventure of my first Voron build and self-sourcing in the same time. I had watched a lot of videos about this printer. My favorite (for the moment) are : Greg's Maker Corner Voron 0.1 Playlist ModBot : Why I Am Building A Voron 3d Printer (And Why You May Want To) 247 Printing : VORON0.1 Kits COMPAIRED: PARTS and BUILD Experience (PART 1) To find LDO resellers, I just take a look here and I had placed my first orders at Caribou3d in Germany and Lecktor in Estonia. My surprise is that European resellers are cheaper than Aliexpress for the frame for example. And with those LDO products (frame + all stepper motors), I hope I'm starting with a strong base. In return, you have to pay shipping. Other surprise, for the main board, I have choosen a BBT SKR Pico board and its price on Big Tree Tech web site is 30% less (shipping included) than in Aliexpress. To be continued ...
  11. Printed all the parts for the Voron 2.4r1 (red and black) and as I was about to begin ---the 2.4r2 was released. Question was, do I build the printer with the parts already printed, just print the new parts, or.......? Well I decided to build a Voron 0 instead. (V0.1632) and started reprinting the parts for the 2.4r2 in a totally new colour scheme (Red and yellow) Also printed the parts in PC-ABS rather than just ABS for additional strength. Also gave me time to learn from the experiences of others, especially @Buurman. And just when I thought I was ready to start, I saw the front idlers mod which I just had to print. Like @PFDennis, I just can't resist a good mod. Finishing printing this now on my VZBot: ) Building on a mirror 600x900x8mm - should be pretty flat. Not as nice as the granite slab that @EricD got but it will do. I built my Voron 0 on a glass bed from a Tronxy X5sa with excellent results. (I converted the Tronxy to a VZBot as seen above) So let the journey begin: Voron 2.4r2 300x300 here I come!!
  12. I've been accumulating parts over the last few months for the new Trident, choosing every part myself. I went with a Formbot kit for my 1st, the 300 Voron2.4. Needless to say, buying the kit required all the cash up front. I was so excited to build another, I began buying parts a little at a time. It was much easier on the wallet. Shortly after I had purchased the most expensive parts, I decided to retire. Now I have plenty of time to build it. As of this post, I am short one important component. I ordered a wire harness from KB3D 6 weeks ago. It has not yet shipped. I was informed last week that I am #10 in the queue at Linneo, so it should be shipping from Spain soon...-ish. Anyway, the first part I ordered was the frame. I got it from a FYSETC store on AliExpress for about $65. The price is higher now, especially for shipping, but I happened to catch a pre-sale deal. All extrusions were the correct length, holes pre-drilled and tapped, and came individually wrapped in a thin foam. They also came with hardware for assembly, which I did use. That became step one this morning. I have avoided AliExpress when possible, but some things are either very hard to find or the price difference is hard to ignore. T-nuts were one of those items. I mostly followed the sourcing guide on the Voron Configurator. All the motors are LDO from KB3D. Day 1 is over. The frame is together and squared up completely. Over the past few months, I have printed several sets of parts in ABS and ASA in a few different colors. I'm having trouble deciding. lol. I'm going to sleep on it. Wish me luck. (To Be Continued)
  13. Been recommended to start a build diary for others that want to do the same. I'm not good at keeping document so will try my best. All start early late 2020 to early 2021 at the time there are no recommended kit available, to ensure the build quality is good I went with PIF and self sourcing parts. Sign up the PIF to wait for the queue and start to using the voron sourcing guide to order parts not all ships to my country(New Zealand) PIF printed parts showed up first the print is very good worth the wait. Parts I've order did not show up till mid May due to Covid and shipping is very slow, some parts were wrong or was not up to standard I would use in the printer. So had to order replacements from other vender on aliexpress. More parts show up around mid June now I've got enough parts to start the build and wait for more parts to come in.(sorry did not take any photo during the build) This is how far I've got cable chain were not good so have order igus cable chain as show in photo. Also the extrusions kit I got were short of the rear extrusion for the AB drive its on the way to me now should have it next week if tracking is right. I found the extrusion from my mendelmax 1.5 is the right length so used for now. Will start the wiring soon as I finish this post and hope to get it to print by next weekend. Parts I've got on hand to install - Linneo wiring harness, BTT Octopus v1.1, tool head PCB, all electronics parts, heat bed and panels. Not too happy about the heat bed may order a new one if not great once heated. Have been looking at the kits on offer now and the quality is fairly good I would recommend anyone if you are not patient enough try not to self source. Also I've notice more and more vender are showing up that carrying quality parts for the Voron its making things easier for me to order parts to finish and upgrade at the same time.
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