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Found 14 results

  1. Hi everyone ! I got a Voron 2.4 controlled with a RP3 and an Octopus board. I want to upgrade it with a SB2040 from Mellow Fly, connected directly to the Octopus's canbus port. (Use a U2C or a canhat would be too easy). I followed the FDMTeam's tutorial : how-to-use-can-toolhead-boards-connected-directly-to-octopus-octopus-pro-on-canboot I also found that the CanBoot project seems compatible with the RP2040 mcu : Issue to integrate the RP2040 to the canboot And I also complete voids with the flash configuration recommended by Mellow Fly : SB2040 Flashing tutorial But at the moment, Klipper can't connect to the octopus and the SB2040 seems unflashed (the blue LED which mean "firmware's running" remains off). Sorry for the long post but, if it can help someone else, I have to detail everything. I did the following steps : Make a CanBoot bootloader for the Octopus Make a CanBoot bootloader for the SB2040 Flash the Octopus with STM32Cube Programmer and the CanBoot bootloader Flash the SB2040 from the Raspberry PI and the Canboot bootloader Make a Klipper bootloader for the Octopus Make a Klipper bootloader for the SB2040 Flash the Octopus with the Raspberry PI and the Klipper bootloader Flash the SB2040 throught the Octopus CanBus with the Klipper Bootloader Then I cried The can0 interface is still setup (ifconfig), I got my two can_uuid : [mcu] canbus_uuid: 3f56a5b6c36c ; [mcu SB2040] canbus_uuid: 2d70e57a001c But after I flashed the SB2040 through the canbus, his can_uuid disapeared. Of course, this probably comes from the fact that I can't use STM32Cube Programmer to make a "dual flash" ? I didn't truly understand the purpose of using STM32 Cube in that case. I replaced the [mcu] section of the printer.cfg file with : [mcu] canbus_uuid: 3f56a5b6c36c [mcu SB2040] canbus_uuid: 2d70e57a001c And the raspberry can't connect to the Octopus board. Klipper say : "mcu not available, try later". Not a surprise if Klipper is looking for the SB2040 mcu ! So, what did I miss ? Why after two flashs the SB2040 didn't have a firmware working ? Is there a software equivalent to STM32Cube to use with the RP2040 ? Thank you for your help. I know that the Canboot project is very young, and I'm looking for troubles, but I hope that it will also help other peoples who face the same problem.
  2. I have Can Bus up and running (sort of). I've installed all software and updated printer.cfg. When I start my machine, things look promising. I get a klipper blue screen with the message: "Printer is not ready. The klippy host software is attempting to connect". But then Klipper shuts down and reports either "Lost communication with MCU 'Can0'." or "mcu 'Can0': Unable to connect". I thought maybe I had Can Hi and Can Lo reversed or maybe a bad cable (or bad crimp job by yours truly). But when I measured the voltage relative to ground at my U2C, I get 2.6 ish for Can Hi (that's fine), but only 1.35 for Can Lo. Is this to be expected? I've read that Can Lo should be between 1.5 and 2.5. So I'm thinking I must have a hardware issue. Has anyone else encountered this?
  3. Hello, my first topic here, hope to do the right things. Did anyone run into the Voron Stealhtburner leds not working with the Sb2040 in can bus mode? I have everything configured correctly, all the GPio in the right place, all working but the leds.... Very frustrating! The motherboard is the new Octopus Max EZ V1.0 without the UC2, tested the led with the connector on the board, all working, connected another CanBus board to the same motherboard(a BigTreetech EBB SB2240_2209 CAN v1.0) and working 100%. Was wondering if someone have solved this mistery. Cheers.
  4. I found this Canbus with CanBoot and Octopus excellent guide on Facebook, posted by TJ M. Wanted to share it with the community and make it easier to find! How to Use CAN Toolhead Boards Connected Directly to Octopus / Octopus Pro on CanBoot Klipper has a new CAN bus feature, the USB to CAN bus bridge communication for Octopus boards (and other compatible MCUs). This feature allows the Octopus boards (and other compatible MCUs) to act as a USB to CAN bus adapter. This replaces the need for an adapter like a Raspberry Pi CAN HAT, canable adapter, or the Bigtreetech U2C board. What is CanBoot? CanBoot is a custom bootloader loaded onto your Octopus and EBB board that allows users to update Klipper firmware over USB, UART, or CAN comms without physically having to access the board reset buttons or BOOT jumpers. It uses the same ‘make menuconfig’ setup to configure and compile firmware. CanBoot is NOT required to use the Klipper USB to CAN bus bridge comms. But I have not tested this comms feature separately. You Will Need the Following USB-A to USB-C cable Power supply for Octopus and EBB toolboard (i.e. printer) RJ11 or RJ12 telephone cable, crimped to connect EBB board to Octopus See wiring info at end of guide. Best to setup wiring before installing software. Raspberry Pi, or similar, with Klipper / Moonraker / UI installed and working Computer with following software: SSH terminal software, I use PuTTY or Windows CMD WinSCP, to transfer files between Raspberry Pi and computer I also use Windows CMD to do this STM32CubeProgrammer Download for your computer OS and install https://www.st.com/en/development-tools/stm32cubeprog.html#getsoftware High Level Instructions, for Understanding Install CanBoot on Raspberry Pi, flash firmware to boards Configure and compile CanBoot firmware for Octopus / Pro and EBB Flash CanBoot to boards using STM32CubeProgrammer and computer Setup boards for Klipper Octopus - Setup Klipper for USB to CAN bus bridge, with CAN comms to EBB EBB - Setup Klipper for CAN comms Find serial device for Octopus / Pro on Raspberry Pi Flash Klipper to Octopus / Pro with CanBoot serial command Setup can0 network on Raspberry Pi, power cycle printer Find CAN uuid for Boards a. Connect EBB to Octopus / Pro, power cycle printer Flash Klipper to EBB board with CanBoot CAN command Printer Config Update and General Tips How to Use CanBoot to update boards, Tips Okay, enough talking! Let’s get started! (download the FULL 25 Page guide below! How to Use CAN Toolhead Boards Connected Directly to Octopus.pdf
  5. Version 1.0.0


    PTFE bowden tube guide and CANBUS wire support Required Hardware: M3x8 Bolt and M3 T-nut M5x10 Bolt or a M5x8 Optional 4mm drill bit for cleaning out bowden tube path About In my 350 build the PTFE tube kept getting caught so I made this arm to keep it up. The shorter arm works better so I recommend using it instead The setup has also been used by a few user to support their CANBUS wires (zip tied to the reverse bowden) Install Drill out bowden guide with 4mm drill bit for a perfect fit (optional) Bolt mount to rear frame with M3x8 and tnut putting the lip at the top Screw arm on with M5x10 (I used a M5x8mm and it works fine) into the plastic allowing the arm to still be able to swivel
  6. Hi, I installed Can on the SB2040, everything reports correctly except for my TAP : The LED on the tap board is red when down and blue when up. So no issues there. I soldered the opto-TAP board for 5V and had it originally installed on the 3-pin connector with the 5V and gpio28 I later found out that's not the way to do it and moved signal and ground to gpio25, leaving the 5V as is. Since it's not working anymore I wondered : did I fry my SB2040 ?
  7. Sadly, this upgrade has been a night mare, everything that could go wrong has gone wrong. First, I realized that the CanBus board won't fit into the Steathbuners front piece, fine get the cutter out and modify the piece to make it fit.. can't print it now since I just ripped out all the cables. Installed the Rapido hot end in, the newly printed bottom pieces yay a win. Solder the pre crimped wire to the temp sensor. next redo all the chains, reroute all the other wire and the CanBus wire, rezip all the wires. The connector for the tap I cut the wrong end off, I'm like ok I will just re crimp it, oh look at of the 10 different JST connectors I have, I don't have this one. so, I have to magically hold in the wrong one and hope it makes a connection... Checking the toolhead for the Tap and its wobbling and the more I move the more it wobbles. I think my Chaotic Tap I got was a lemon, I didn't even get to print it was already wobbling from side to side the screws came loose for the Rail, I took it a part and retightened those screws and added lock tight. I put it all back together move the Tool head around Yay it seem to be better, aOh! I just realized the end stop won't work whit the chaotic tap, and realize I need to add a switch to the tool head body Great! Take it all apart again... sigh this feels like it the 4th time doing this... I get the switch in solder shrink tube wire and crimps, plug it.. screw it in and one of the screws instantly stripes sigh, rebuild the toolhead... Finally it was done on to flashing the board, everything seams good get through the first few parts all's good then I get to put the jumper on plug the cable in. cd ~/CanBoot/scripts python3 flash_can.py -i can0 -q and I can't seem to get past this part.. I can't move on because it won't give me the ID to flash the next part I gone over all the step like four times still can't get past this part... and I not sure what to do I have been working on this for the last few days, and I want to cry... Voron 2.4 Formbot kit, Manta MP8/CB1, BTT EB2209 Canbus, Chaoticlabs Tap, LGX Lite Extruder, Rapido Hotend, t...
  8. Version 1.0.0


    ebb42 mount for cw1 nema17 pancake with umbilical strain relief Decided to go to canbus umbilical for my stealthburner on cw1 and remove both x and y cable chains. As the ebb42 is a new product there had been no mounts that have been released at that time so i came up with this design. The mount sits comfortably on the rear of my extruder nema17 pancake motor and spaces the ebb42 nicely away from the rear of the motor, the m3 motor screws i have are slightly to long so i used spacers on top of the ebb42 to counteract this, also i used a cable strain relief to protect the 4 wires to the ebb42 which the dimentions are 5mm hole, 28mm length, diameter 11.8mm, slot diameter 7.55mm x2.1mm which goes into a little slide in wedge to hold into place and also used expandable braided sleeving size 3-9mm which protects the wires and sits nice and snug in the strain relief. i also modified the original stealthburner cw1 pcb cover by Demosth to fit with this mount (https://www.teamfdm.com/files/file/535-stealthburner-cw1-pcb-cover).
  9. Trying to get canbus set up on Klipper and the BTT Canbus U2Cv2.1 and EBB36 boards. Started trying to follow this guide "YES!! You CANBus Setup." on Youtube but didn't get pass the flashing of the board from canibale.io --- said it flashed but when I power cycle the blue light stays on where it says the blue light should go off. I then tried following TeachingTechs guide "Klipper CAN bus guide for Bigtreetech U2C and EBB boards" and got the board flashed but then after power cycle the blue light remains on. Anyone here experience the same or know another guide or how to troubleshoot so I can move on in the setup process?
  10. So my V2.4R0 was build with PIF parts from Germany (Australia does not have a PIF supplier) The built was bases on a LDO frame and Magic Phoenix parts. The mistake I made was not to make sure I could purchase the filament used for the accent, so I plan to switch colour. Serial Request Link The current build has a ABBN and a SHT42 CANBus board, but is still using the cable chains. As of right now the CANBus power cable has a break at the XY join on the right, meaning the machine stops all the time. With the broken wire a friend printed the X Carriage parts below for me while I was getting my V0 up to scratch. While building the X Carriage below I put a bolt in which was too long causing the white spot in the image. I'll reprint this once the machine is running again. I plan to upgrade to a MGN12 X, a Stealthburner, GE5C Z Mount, Voron Tap, Rama's Front Idlers, Orbiter V2 (initially but switching to Vz-Hextrudort-Low Extruder) and a SHT36V2. I'm not sure about is the X rail, I have the original aluminium, 20x20 machined aluminium tube, a carbon 20x20 tube and X/Y backers but not sure what combo I should select. So as you can see, I have a number of decisions to make. I need to get these upgrades done ASAP, as I want to start building my Trident.
  11. Hi All So I've been planning to build a Trident for the last year and I now have all the non-printed parts. I bought some from via BOM links or comparable sources and eventually purchased a partial Magic Phoenix kit to fill-out parts I was missing. I printed the parts in the image around 10 months ago, so some of the parts are out of date. I'm also not 100% sure about the colour. This is a ABS filament available in Australia from a company called 3dFillies. I have some Fillamentum ASA Extrafill in traffic red and black which I could use instead. Comments?
  12. Version 29.12.22


    Burst from Discord Voron asked my if I can do an update of my old "HEPA + activated carbon Air filter mod" for his new machine: he wanted wiring for CanBus and ERCF I made it and added some "stealth" to it. Work in progress... This is based on Fanny Pack Air Filter. I dont know who made it originally.
  13. Hello, I just upgraded my Voron 2.4 with the U2C canbus interface and the EBB42 Canbus board. I need to get theCanbus speed up to 500000 to able able to use the onboard accelerometer for Klipper input shaping. Can anyone provide clear instructions how to build this firmware for the U2C? The Candlelight github page does not give enough details for me. A procompiled firmware for U2C at 500K would also be great. I designed a mount for the EBB42 for the Afterburner printhead. It can be found here:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5559591 There is another mount available on Thingiverse, but that created a bad interference with the drag chain. It was also sticking out to much, causing interference with the gantry drag chain while homing.
  14. Ready to used PCBs in Europe. PCBs for Voron completely soldered and we also included conectors and crimp terminals.
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