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About Me

Voron Serial #1

Voron Serial #2

Voron Serial #3

  1. First week of Knocking my head of with fusion and the Try to Extrude some Item Profiles and doing Math on where to place what to make the Printer 100mm greater in all dimensions. Looking where i need to put how much To LEft Right and Up and Down. Oder List so far for Components : Frame Check , Holes to Drill ( i need to wait for the Cenvention Machines to get free :P) Electronics : Mainboard , PSu 24 Volt , Some stuff for Heatbed and Hotend , Cabel missing in PTFE Mechanic : all stuff together but the Rails got Delivered in MGN9 instead of 12 ( i can Curse like a Sailor in such Cases) , so need to wait till they are Delivered Things to do : STL in the Right Dimensions ( Front and Rear Grill left and Right , Some Holders for the Fly Mainboard and ather little tings) I will post if i got something ready with STL and Pictures
  2. Version 2022.03.16


    LRS Screw Terminal Cover Designed to cover the screw terminals for several LRS style PSUs. Other Meanwell PSU may work. Feel free to ping me in discord to add to the compatibility list below. Pro tip: These are very snug to the point it will bow. This is intentional as it was designed to take some effort to take off. Printing Default voron settings No supports needed Compatibility List LRS-50 LRS-200
  3. Version 2022.11.18


    Stealthburner Rapido UHF A mod that stretches the Stealthburner Front and Rapido Toolhead Front for use with a Rapido UHF configuration. It moves the lighting and cooling to Stealthburner stock locations relative to new nozzle location. Designed from SB RC1 using this version. No additional parts required. Assembly is as per Voron Stealthburner manual. You may need to increase the length of one of the LED wire legs.
  4. Version 2022.10.13


    Zodiac BMO Stealthburner Toolhead A modified toolhead for use with the Zodiac BMO Hotend and compatible with RC1 of Stealthburner. It was created from the original RC1 Stealthburner Phaetus BMO Toolhead files. If changes after RC1 of Stealthburner make this mod incompatible, I will provide updated files based on the official Stealthburner CAD files. The official Zodiac3D CAD Model of their BMO Hotend was used for reference. Images Notes For optimal fit it is very important that your printer's dimensional accuracy is nearly perfect. Especially Pressure Advance has to be tuned right. Even then it is still a very tight fit, when putting in the hotend. That ensures that it cannot twist or wiggle. One handed nozzle changes should be possible, but are generally not recommended. The bowden tube length from top of the toolhead to the heatbreak of the hotend is around 31.2mm. Take that into account when calculating the total bowden length. (E.g. Clockwork2 needs 11mm above the toolhead, so that accumulates to a total bowden length of 42.2mm, when using Clockwork2.) Test prints were made with standard ABS, ABS and ASA Carbon.
  5. Version 2022.10.11


    Voron Switchwire StealthBurner CR Touch Mod This repo contains the STL for Voron SW SB CR Touch Mod. I used the SB 1.05Beta during development. But it should work on the SB v1 release as it's only X rail carriage. The STL is only for MGN12 Carriage for SW No supports are needed during the print No tools are needed to fit the CR Touch, it's a press fit I used Dragon Standard hotend for deciding height of CR touch and it's 2mm above the nozzle when pin is up It should work with other hotends as well (Hotends of same form factor as Dragon) Preview of how CR Touch Fits in the SB X rail carriage: Thanks to Voron Developers for building rocket making tools
  6. Version 2022.11.09


    Stealthburner Clockwork2 Toolhead for HF Crazy Mozzie This is a a toolhead mount for the HF Crazy Mozzie (or other Mosquito clones), compatible with Stealthburner RC1 and Clockwork 2. Design source. The airflow pattern is designed and tested for the high-flow version. Here it is shown with the regular version: In action:
  7. Version 2021.10.02


    Voron Switchwire feed slot with filament pass-through This mod is a replacement for the stock feed_slot.stl, it adds a OD 4mm reverse bowden passthrough hole. It also removes the need for VHB tape with two clamps that screw into heatset inserts. Parts Required 2 BOM heatset inserts 2 M3x6 button or socket head Printing Standard Voron part settings were used but the infill was dropped down to 20% Installation Install heatsets on the bottom side of the new filament slot Remove the old feed slot and VHB tape Install the new feed slot and use the two clamps and M3x6 screws to secure Note I designed this orignally for a bowden tube pass-through but at high Z the tube was unmanagable but would love to see if anyone comes up with a solution for this.
  8. Hi guys, here is the current status of my build, im waiting for the cable chains to proceed with the eletronic wiring. The plan is also to use a octopus v1.1 + ebb36 for the toolhead, while crimping i decided to remove most of the cables and can is the way to go. Self sourced parts, and a fermio enclosure.
  9. Have all the hardware for the build - self sourced late last year. Looking at options and the escalation in postage costs, this I feel is no longer a viable way to go. Kits in the end work out much cheaper and that is the way I will go in future. Looking at kits on Formbot's Aliexpress store, the delivery times to Australia is within 6 weeks. And the kits are approximately 500AUD cheaper than locally sourced kits from Formbot. Enough of this and on to the build. Frame done and parts printing. As @Buurman, planning a few mods with the build and even though the Switchwire is not meant to be enclosed, it will be. Will be a slow build but definitely not as drawn out, as was the 2.4r2 build. Lets start: -Individually self sourced parts Parts being printed on the newly build V2.4008. Color scheme will be Blue, White and Black. Frame assembled: (Build on a mirror) And yes, I have a Raspi Pi4 and some spare: @smirk I am not a hoarder - just plan ahead - you know for those rainy days.
  10. Version 2022.09.23


    Creality toolhead for stealthburner. Not recommended but a potential pathway for e3-
  11. Version 2022.08.30


    Stealthburner (RC1) Crazy Dragon Fan Duct With special thanks to @chestwood96, sponsored by @3dmellow for the Crazy heatblock, as well as the awesome base design from the VoronDesign team, I'm able to create the Stealthburner Crazy Dragon fan duct. The fan duct is designed based on the Rapido toolhead mount (RC1), retro-fitted with Dragon styled duct allowing wind to blow towards the throat only. The duct is designed to be able to mount the Phaetus/Triangle Lab dragon heatsink with Mellow Crazy Heatblock (verified by myself and @chestwood96) Phaetus Dragon UHF mini (standard UHF version without the melt zone extender) TriangleLab T Volcano (to be verified) Print Parameters Print in standard Voron settings. Previews
  12. Version 2022.08.16


    Runout UnKlicky Sensor The Runout UnKlicky Sensor is a filament runout sensor that can be used to pause a print if printing filament breaks, runs out or otherwise is no longer present in the sensor. The design uses magnets as the switch, making it easy and cheap to source BOM components. Printing: Components: 1x Pin.stl 1x Roller.stl 1x Base.stl (different options are available[*]) 1x Top.stl (different options are available[*]) Printer: Use the Voron defaults and print in ABS or better The parts are orientated correctly in the STLs [*]Base and Top: There are 3 bases and 4 tops to choose from: Bases: Base.stl is the standard base with push in holes for the PTFE tubes Base_PC4-M6.stl which allows the use of PC4-M6 connectors for the PTFE tubes Base_Collet.stl which allows the use of E3D M4 collets Tops: Top.stl is the standard top with no mounting options Top_2020.stl provides mounting to 2020 extrusions using a t-nut Top_1515.stl provides mounting to 1515 extrusions using an inserted nut Top_1515_NoNut** provides mounting to 1515 extrusions if you have no inserted nuts available [**] The Top_1515_NoNut can be used if you don't have any free nuts. It snaps into the extrusion. If it moves or slips, you can use a M2x10mm self-tapping screw to secure the sensor to the extrusion. Do note that the screw can scratch the inside the extrusion if that might bother you. BOM: 5x M3x8mm SHCS/BHCS (2x for the wired screws, 2x for the top/base, 1x for 2020 extrusion mount) 2x 6x3mm neodymium magnets (for the switch) 1x M2x10mm (optional for 1515 extrusion mount) 1x M3 Hammer T-Nut (for 2020 extrusion mount) 2x fork connectors (optional - for attaching wires) Assembly: Parts used: Insert one of the magnets into the pin, push it in fully so that it shows in the groove gap: Insert the corresponding pin into the base and make sure that they attract from the outside as shown: Insert the pin into the base with the pin grooves to the sides for the screws to enter. The pin should be pushed down to the bottom by the magnet in the base. Push the pin right up to the base magnet and screw in the screws to either side of the pin: Place the top on the base and secure with two screws: Attach cables to each screw that goes into the pin. There is no polarity and no voltage so it doesn't matter how they are connected. I used fork connectors for ease of use. Make sure the pin screws are screwed in tightly: Hook up the wires to a multimeter and put it on it's continuity test. It should show resistance (and/or beep) when there's no filament in the sensor: It should show no resistance (and/or remain silent) if you fully insert some filament into the sensor. Feed the filament through a few times from each side to ensure that you do not see any resistance when filament is present, and that you do see resistance when there is none: Wiring: Wire to an end-stop or similar pin. Do not connect to voltage, only to pin and GND. For example, with the BTT SKR MINI V2.0 you could use the E-STOP pin (PC15) and GND. For the BTT SKR Pico you could also use the E-STOP pin (gpio16) and GND. Klipper: A simple configuration is available in this repo. Upload and include runoutunklicky.cfg in your printer.cfg and change the PIN definition to the one you chose on your MCU. The config file contains what is required to use a runout sensor, but it will only literally pause the machine and resume when prompted. To have the toolhead parked away from the print to an accessible place to change filament, implement one of the following examples in your klipper configuration: AndrewEllis93 Mainsail Test by inserting and removing filament. If it shows incorrectly in klipper add a ! in front of the PIN definition and test again. Credits: Thanks to: chestwood96 for inspiration from the UnKlicky probe for SlideSwipe majarspeed for the Unklicky probe jlsa1 for the Klicky and Unklicky probes al3ph for the
  13. Version 2022.09.23


    LGX stealthburner connector cover This is a remix of craxoor's Afterburner PCB Cover designed to work with the Stealthburner and Bondtech's LGX Extruder.
  14. Version 1.1.0


    I designed this roller spool holder for the Switchwire after modifying and existing 2.4 roller spool holder to make it easier to print. Roller (1 req'd) should be printed vertically. I chose gyroid infill as it doesn't cross over infill lines that've already been printed like cubic that can potentially knock the part off the print bed. Use standard Voron print specifications. Pegs (2 req'd) for the ends should be printed vertically. I increased the perimeters to 6 so that I didn't need infill and also added a brim to further stabilize the parts during printing. The Roller Holder (1 req'd) should be printed with the flat side down. You will need, at a minimum, supports for the hook and stub that mount into the Spool Holder Bracket. I used the default supports in SuperSlicer. Bearings: Bearings are 8mm ID x 22mm OD x 7mm wide sealed ball bearings. Two required. Spool Holder Bracket: This is the standard Voron Design spool holder bracket for the Switchwire. Print per Voron specifications.
  15. Version 2021.10.09


    Afterburner LGX Useful links, info, and models for using the The LGX™ Large Gears eXtruder with Afterburner... Afterburner LGX Mounts Klipper config Extra LGX Models LGX Cable Cover LGX Gear Cover LGX Lever Cover Afterburner LGX Mounts Mounting the LXG to AfterBurner requires some additional mounting plates. You will need both of @Nemgrea's mounts from Discord: lgx_AftB_Mount_Front.STL (Discord file link) lgx_AftB_Mount_Rear.STL (Discord file link) These models are pinned in the #voronuser_mods channel on Discord, and can be found in this message. Thanks to @Nemgrea V2.199 V0.000 and the crew for their efforts designing and testing the mounts, and offering them to the community. Aside: For my own build, I found that my third-party M3x20 screws had a large enough head that the toolhead couldn't mount to the X Carriage assembly properly without a bit more clearance. If you find yourself in this situation, this mod of @Nemgrea's mount is nearly identical to the one on Discord but with slightly more clearance for the bottom screws. Please try the (semi)official one first before using this mod Klipper config Bondtech has some official documentation for configuring Klipper here. Below is the configuration I am currently running. rotation_distance: 8 microsteps: 16 full_steps_per_rotation: 200 # use either # gear_ratio: 44:14, 37:17 # rotation_distance: 55 # or # rotation_distance: 8 # but not both! The either...or warning is not from Bondtech, but provided here to honor the memory and sacrifice of my first hotend and save those that may come after from suffering the same fate... Extra LGX Models LGX Cable Cover Besides the mounting parts, most people end up asking about a cable cover. There are a few posted around Discord, but after seeing Craxoor's PCB cover I designed a similar cover from scratch for use with the LGX. Note that this cover does not work with the toolhead PCB - it just looks similar. lgx-cable-cover.stl (Cereal not included) LGX Gear Cover A little cover for the Large Gears on the LGX so it doesn't chew through the fan wires. lgx-gear-cover.stl LGX Lever Cover Drop-in replacement for the filament pre-tension lever, in case you want a different color: lgx-lever-cover.stl
  16. Version 2022.07.24


    C17 -EXT-CARTRIDGE, HEPA Carbon filter The C17-EXT-CARTRIDGE is designed to be used with the C17-EXT HEPA Carbon filter. This is a first publication, although all parts has been tested, there may be errors do not hesitate to contact me. Assembly Manual BOMs The list of parts is described in the manual. HEPA 13 Filter Use HEPA 13 filters from 10mm to 18mm thick. The best is to find a HEPA 13 filter for vacuum cleaner and cut it with a cutter. The references change according to the country. I tested this one after cutting: The best but I do not find the reference in other countries: Amazon.fr Aliexpress 1 Aliexpress 2 Carbon WARNING : Although the C17-EXT does not return treated air to the printer enclosure, use Acid-free Activated Carbon (Coconuts for example : amazon) ! Credits The C17-EXT Activated Carbon Filter was modelled in Fusion 360. Contributing A complaint is a gift. Please, help me to improve the C17-EXT-CARTRIDGE ! License Distributed under GNU General Public License version 3.0 (GPLv3) Contact Discord: OboMaker3D#0669 - () Acknowledgements The Voron Dev Team
  17. Version 2022.07.24


    C17 -EXT, External HEPA Carbon filter The C17-EXT filter replaces the standard filter of the Voron 2.4 and to add one on the Switchwire . It has a 120mm fan and can use the C17-EXT-Cartridge filter (HEPA 13 and Carbon) or commercial HEPA Carbon filters. This is a first publication, although all parts has been tested, there may be errors do not hesitate to contact me. 2 configurations With adapter for standard back panel Voron With specific back panel For the Switchwire model only configuration 2 is possible. 2 options to replace the grid Assembly Manual BOMs The list of parts is described in the manual according to the chosen configuration. Fan For the 120mm fan, follow the recommendations in the documentation. 3 models: Efficient but noisy, the best choice (4000 rpm) : Aquatuning Alphacool 24810 ES (tested) Less powerful but quieter (3000 rpm) : Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 3000 PWM (tested, acceptable for commercial cartridges) Less powerful but quieter (3000 rpm) : Sunon MEC0251V1-000U-A99 (Not tested) If you find other models at 4000 rpm, please send me the references. Filter cartridge Two possibilities : Using the C17-EXT-CARTRIDGE Use a commercial cartridge : Alveo3D Credits The C17-EXT Activated Carbon Filter was modelled in Fusion 360. Contributing A complaint is a gift. Please, help me to improve the C17-EXT filter ! License Distributed under GNU General Public License version 3.0 (GPLv3) Contact Discord: OboMaker3D#0669 - () Acknowledgements The Voron Dev Team
  18. Version 2021.10.01


    Orbiter Clockwork Module This Clockwork module allows the use of the Orbiter v1.5 Extruder in the Voron Afterburner. Features One of the main issues I observed when using the orbiter was a lack of a quick filament release in addition to a lack of a suitable clockwork adapter that would swap an orbiter directly into the Afterburner ecosystem. Many of the issues observed were addressed with this Clockwork Module. This version provides a chain anchor for the Voron 2.4 and the Switchwire, a Cable Cover, and a quick filament release lever. Bill of Materials (BOM) Quantity Name Type 1 Orbiter v1.5 Extruder Orbiter Thingiverse link Hardware 9 M3 Heat Set Inserts McMaster Link Hardware 94180A331 or suitable inserts (Thread Pitch 0.5, Installed Length 3.8mm, Diameter ~5mm) 1 M3x8mm SHCS Hardware 1 M3x16 SHCS Hardware 2 M3x20 SHCS Hardware 1 PTFE 45mm (Dragon) Hardware 1 Clockwork Adaptor - Front Printable 1 Clockwork Adaptor - Back Printable 1 Cable/Connector Cover Printable 1 Filament Quick Release Printable 1 Chain Anchor (Version for Voron 1.8/Trident/2.4 and Switchwire) Printable Assembly Guide Orbiter Clockwork Assembly Guide Orbiter Clockwork Module Images Release History Version 1.0 Orbiter Clockwork Adaptor has been verified to fit and function on a Voron 2.4 and a Switchwire. Additional testing may be required to fix any minor or major issues that are identified in the future. If you observed any issues, please create an issue so it can be tracked.
  19. Building a bed slinger this time around. Kit is in transit. I went with Frombot3D, they did me right with my 2.4R2 build so I'm going with them again. Would have like to try the LDO kit but price and availability turned me away. I guess I will see if the savings ends up being worth it or not. So far I'm printing parts. Base parts are Prusament Galaxy Black ASA, Accent parts will be FilamentOne ASA Sky Blue.
  20. Version 2022.05.19


    Toolhead PCB To CAN Mounting Adaptor Simple mount to convert Afterburner Toolhead Board mount spacing to the spacing for popular CAN toolhead boards like Huvud and FLY-SHT42. The assumption is that you have created an evenly spaced pair of holes to mount to with spacing for the afterburner toolhead PCB (version 4.0 and below). For example, on my 2.4 with a Galileo Stealthburner I am using hartk's Galileo Body. If you need spacers, they should be easy enough to create in Tinkercad or just by overlaying cylinders in your slicer. BOM 4x M3 Heat Sets (Standard Voron Spec) 2x M3x6 BHCS to mount through to PCB holes 4x M3x6 SHCS for board mounting (or whatever is suitable for your board)
  21. Version 2022.05.23


    20x20mm, slot 6 Profile Covers Please find here my mod for variable profile covers for 20x20 construction profiles with 6mm slot. Printing Printing successful with standard VORON settings. For adjusting the length of the profiles you can scale the *.stl file in your slicer in y-direction after import and before positioning (rotating/placement) on your print bed. Please find the following example on how to do so for SuperSlicer: Sequence: Deactivate linked scaling with click on lock symbol, Lock symbol status (
  22. Version 2022.05.21


    MKS CANable Pro DIN rail mount This mod is to mount the MKS CANable Pro to a standard 35mm DIN rail. The CANable Pro is held from moving along its longest axis by the 4 locating pins and held onto the mount by a clip over the CAN transceiver holding it in place. The board can only mount one way due to the header pins and for any doubt the output directions are labelled on the mount. To print you need canable_pro_clip.stl canable_pro_mount.stl pcb_din_clip.stl (credits to the Voron team for making this) And 2*M2x10 self tapping screws or if you don't want one of the screws poking out a shorter one (5-7mm) or just cut the end off with snips. To assemble, screw the mount onto the PCB DIN clip and then place the board on the mount with the outputs aligned in direction shown on the mount. It should sit flush as shown below and then the clip slips over the top and locates into 2 small indents. Enjoy! Thanks to @Micko SE
  23. Version 2022.06.05


    LGX Lite CAN Side Mount (Huvud/SHT42) Side mount for CAN toolhead boards with NEMA 17 sizes such as Huvud and FLY-SHT42. You will need two M3 square nuts that should have come with the LGX Lite to put into the side holes for mounting. I am using this on my Voron 2.4 with Mrgl-Mrgl's LGX Lite Mount for the extruder. BOM 4x M3 Square Nuts (Included with LGX Lite) 4x M3 Heat Sets (Standard Voron Spec) 2x M3x6 BHCS to mount through to LGX Lite holes 4x M3x6 SHCS for board mounting (or whatever is suitable for your board)
  24. Version 2022.05.03


    Stealthburner Clockwork1 PCB Cover I designed a cover for users who are still rocking the CW1 with Stealthburner, with the same low-poly esthetic of stealthburner. This cover is a snug fit, so please make sure your wiring is all nice and tidy or you could have some issues.
  25. Version 2022.04.21


    Laser Cut Door Panels As my distaste for all solutions VHB related, I was looking for how to replace the hinges on my 2.4. The most popular solution seems to be the 270 Degree Hinge which was based on Randell's Door Hinges. The challenge with both of these is that they require you to drill your acrylic to mount them. Maybe that's super easy, but I did some research on it, including what drill bits to buy, etc, and it seemed complicated with a reasonable chance that I was going to crack my panels. But I do have access to a laser from my local makerspace and experience there, so I CAD'd the panels in Fusion360 and created the DXFs to cut them. Design Goals The idea behind these files is to allow you to laser cut the door panels to have the horizontal flexibility to dial in the fit. So the holes for the hinges are ovals to allow you that flexibility. Be aware that thermal expansion will have some impact on your fit. Mine are tightly aligned when cold, but will stick a little bit when the printer is fully heatsoaked. To that end, the holes for the handles are slightly larger and will likely require either a washer or button head screws. This is intentional to allow you to be able to move those around by a few mm. I also found that the door latches sat a little too far out for the standard acrylic 1mm tape, so I modifed the latches to sit back a little more. There are now CAD files for cutting the holes in front doors. Although they are parametric (doorwidth) there are f3d and dxf files for 250, 300 and 350mm. There are also dxf files for all of those in the dxf directory. Files CAD Remember, in Fusion360, the dimensions for the doors are parametric, so you can just change it there instead of opening these individually. I've just created them so that if you're not comfortable in Fusion, they're easy to use.
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