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Printable Voron User Mods

Voron User Mods, or "UserMods", are a collection of community created and Team FDM curated modification for Voron Printers. All of these mods are available on the VoronUsers Github repo and unless otherwise specified follow the Voron communities GPL3.0 Licensing. Use any Mods at your own risk, if you make modification please share them on the VoronUsers repo.

Mod Authors: Have a Voron mod? Upload it at TeamFDM.com and let us know you're the author. We will ensure you can update and curate your files for more feedback! Please include tags for what Voron, or extruder your mod is compatible with. 

640 files

  1. Klicky Probe for v0 Printers

    This is an intermediate/advanced configuration, it's recommended to first build your Voron to the stock configuration
    That way, you will be better familiarized with the concepts that are presented here and will have a much more enjoyable experience.
    With an integrated mount, the bed can be fully used during printing, the bed only cannot be probed (at most) 6mm on the left side, this is due to the design of the probe, that extends below the nozzle.
    There are currently two other probes available to use on the V0.1, Slideswipe and Sideswipe.

    Above all, have fun and be excellent to one another, the instructions on how to install and setup the klicky probe for  Vorondesign V0(.1) can be found [here](https://github.com/jlas1/Klicky-Probe/tree/main/Printers/Voron/v0), or below on this download
    For me, and for a lot of users, it is working very well, if you decide to use it, give me feedback, either here, or on discord, my discord user is JosAr#0517.
    By standing on the shoulders of giants, let's see if we can see further.

     
    Mounting options
    Probe dock mount
    The probe dock is mounted to the front right extrusion, where it minimizes the chance of being removed inadvertently during printing, like this:

    There are several mounting options, depending on your setup:
    It can be frustrating on the v0 to add extra m3 nuts on the 1515 extrusion after the assembly is complete, so there are several screwless probe dock options to avoid that scenario.
    Screwless variable Fixed Fixed extrabeef Top screws Side screws recommended for most setups, does not require extra m3 nuts on the extrusion (v0.0/1) fixed position, does not require extra m3 nuts on the extrusion (v0.1) fixed, fits X carriages that are 2mm thicker, does not require extra m3 nuts on the extrusion(v0.1) fixed, requires 2 extra m3 nuts on the top extrusion (v0.1) fixed, requires 2 extra m3 nuts on the front extrusion (v0.1) There are also some more mounting options on Usermods, like a servo powered dock. Check it out
    Probe toolhead mount
    The v0 toolhead was not designed to use a probe, so there is no inbuilt location to add one, so i designed two options for the v0.1 variant and one for the original v0.
    Front cowling mount (v0.1)
    You can install a mount the attaches to the front of the toolhead cowling, it will need 2/3mm of X space on the front right of the bed to avoid picking the probe up by accident, it is very easy to install, it's ideal to test the concept of probing on the v0.1
       
    You will require 2x M3 x 40mm (BHSC preferably) that are not on the V0(.1) BOM, there is an included wire path with zip tie support, to keep your printer looking good.
    Integrated cowling (v0.1)
    You can replace the cowling with a version that has a cutout to allow the klicky mount to attach, it has no impact on the cooling performance of the probe, it also includes a wire path to the back of the miniAB.
       
    This method allow mounting of different probes on the V0.1, currently only klicky uses this mount, hopefully that can change in the future.
    It also allows to pick up the probe at X121, effectively outside the bed, incurring in a no print space lost.
    Fan duct mount (v0.0)
    On the V0.0, you do not need to reprint the entire cowlink, you only need to replace the right fan duct with a version that has a mount for klicky, it has no impact on the cooling performance of the probe, it also includes a wire path to the back of the miniAB.
    This version has seen little tests because of the lack of a sufficient number of v0.0 to test on.
    If you end up using this version, please tell me at what X do you dock and attach the probe.
    It is also necessary to use the Screwless variable dock mount
    Bill of Materials (BOM)
    Tools:
    1.5mm Drill (optional) Multimeter to check for Continuity Super Glue (optional) Soldering Iron Probe:
    1x microswitch (the omron D2F-5 or D2F-5L (removing the lever is required), other also work with reduced accuracy or repeatability (mostly anecdotal evidence, needs a proper sudy) 2x M2x10 mm self tapping 10cm of 22AWG cable (to wire the magnets to the switch) 5x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets (N35 magnets work) Probe mount:
    Front cowling mount (v0.1) Integrated cowling mount (v0.1) Fan duct mount (v0.0) 4x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets (N35 magnets work) 4x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets (N35 magnets work) 4x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets (N35 magnets work) 2x 20cm 22AWG cable (to connect the Klicky Probe to the umbilical termination point) 2x 20cm 22AWG cable (to connect the Klicky Probe to the umbilical termination point) 2x 20cm 22AWG cable (to connect the Klicky Probe to the umbilical termination point) two wires to connect the controller to the extruder motor vicinity two wires to connect the controller to the extruder motor vicinity two wires to connect the controller to the extruder motor vicinity 2x M3 x 40mm BHSC 1x M3x6 mm BHSC Screw 1x M3x6 mm BHSC Screw   1x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx4 mm 2x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx4 mm Probe dock:
    1x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets (N35 magnets work) 2x M3x16 mm Probe dock mounts:
    Screwless variable (v0.0/1) Fixed (v0.1) Fixed extrabeef (v0.1) Top screws (v0.1) Side screws (v0.1) 2x m3 nut 2x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx4 mm 2x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx4 mm 2x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx4 mm 2x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx4 mm       2x m3x8 mm 2x m3x8 mm Sourcing
    To get the best experience, please consider purchasing from the trusted list of suppliers bellow.
    trusted suppliers list
    Parts location
    The probe STL's are located here.
    The printer specific STL's are located here.
    The CAD with all the parts are here.
    What to print
    Probe
    2x KlickyProbe_Long_v2.stl (keeping a spare is always a good idea) The KlickyProbe_v2.stl is also compatible, but has a different Y offset and cannot probe all the bed.
    Helpers to pressfit the probe magnet
    Probe_magnet_pressfit_helper.stl
    Probe_magnet_holder.stl
    Longer_probe_pressfit_helper.stl
    Probe mount
    Front cowling mount (v0.1) Integrated cowling mount (v0.1) Fan duct mount (v0.0) Front_cowling_mount.stl MiniAB_Dragon_Cowling_wKlicky.stl V0_Fan_duct_wKlicky.stl v0.1_integrated_mount.stl v0.1_integrated_mount.stl v0_integrated_mount.stl There are also other integrated cowlings, check the [STL] folder, namely, the Serpa_Mini_Dragon_Cowling_wKlicky.stl from Kyrios and the LGX Lite cowling from Bondtech.
    Probe dock
    Probe_Dock_v2.stl Probe dock mounts
    Screwless variable (v0.0/1) Fixed (v0.1) Fixed extrabeef (v0.1) Top screws (v0.1) Side screws (v0.1) DockMount_variable.stl DockMount_fixed.stl DockMount_extrabeef.stl DockMount_TopScrews.stl DockMount_SideScrews.stl Printing instructions
    Recommended printing settings:
    initial layer height:0,24 layer height: 0.2mm bottom/top/perimeters: 4 infill: more than 23% infill type: Cubic Thin walls: On It was tested and printed with ABS, might work on other materials, if you try, let me know how it worked out.
    Typical V0.1 components

    (the images with the green background were provided by user SunB#1489 and are being used with permission).
    Assembly
    Step 1 - Dock mount and Probe Dock assembly
    In this examples, the Fixed dock will be used.
     2x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx 4 mm  1x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets  2x M3x16 mm  Super Glue Here we will use the Fixed dock as an example, the other docks are very similar.
    Install your heat set threaded inserts like you did within your Voron build.

    Install the magnet in the Probe dock, make sure that the magnet is fully inserted, it's top should be below the plastic.
    Screw the dock onto the Dock mount with the two M3x16mm screws.
    Secure the magnet with a dab of super glue (not a lot, just a drop).

    Mount the Probe Dock to the front right extrusion, snap first on the front extrusion, then on the top one (do this after assembling the probe).

    Step 2: Probe Assembly
    For the probe assembly you need the following parts:
     1x microswitch  2x M2x10 mm self tapping  5x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets  10cm of 22AWG cable  1.5mm Drill (optional)  Multimeter to check for Continuity  Super Glue
    Maybe you need to clear the holes for the microswitch, a 1.5mm drill bit should work fine.
    Install the microswitch so that the arrow on the probe body is pointing to the little switch.
    The best way to install the back magnet is to attach a magnet to the probe dock and slide the probe on the dock to insert some distance and the insert he remaining with a tool, it should be slightly below the plastic.

    Then take your self tapping screws and screw the microswitch in place, you should also now solder the wires to the outside pins of the switch, that way making this a Normally Connected probe.

    You should place the wires cover outside the ducts to the magnets and install them in the space below the magnets, more like the right wire is on the image below.

    You want to install the magnets in the way that the ones which are connected to the microswitch, have the same polarity.
    Before placing the switch magnets, use some super glue on the holes (not a lot, just a drop), avoid the wires and the top of the magnets.
    The 3rd magnets (there are two) should have the inverse polarity, wait until the system is complete and assembled before gluing the magnets, they might need adjustment to ensure a good fit on the mount.
    You can use the included pressfit helpers to help in securing the probe when you are inserting the magnets.

    There is no need for soldering, the probe microswitch connectors are press-fit on the magnets, they should remain with the top above the probe plastic.

    As the last step of the probe assembly check if you have continuity between two magnets that connect to the switch.
    If you have a normally closed switch (as you should), then you should have a current flow, so continuity is established. When you press the switch you should lose continuity. When you have a normally open switch then the behavior is the other way around.
    Step 3: Probe mount Assembly
    In this example, the Front cowling mount will be used.
    For the Front cowling mount assembly you need the following parts
     4x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets  2 x 20cm 22AWG cable to connect the Klicky Probe to the Mircofit Terminal  two wires to connect the controller to the extruder motor vicinity  some microfit or JST hardware  2x M3 x 40mm BHSC  Multimeter to check for Continuity  Super Glue The probe mount wires are also connected with pressure from the magnets, you can use the probe magnets as a template to insert the probe mount magnets, it is easier that way, so that the magnets are not inserted the wrong way.
    again, before placing the wire magnets, use some super glue on the holes (not a lot, just a drop), avoid the wires and the top of the magnets.
    The 3rd magnets (there are two) should have the inverse polarity, exacly like on the probe.
    Wait until the system is complete and assembled before gluing the 3rd magnets, they might need adjustment to ensure a good fit on the probe.
     
    (The mount has since been improved a bit to avoid cracking)
    After everything is assembled let's check again for continuity, this time joining the ends of the cable and testing connectivity on the two wire magnets that have a cable.
    Step 4: Probe Mount installation and wiring
    For the installation you need the following parts:
     2x M3x40 mm BHSC Screws
    Route the probe mount cables to near the end of the V0 umbilical, install a male terminal in there.
    Before going further, please turn off the printer, the SKR boards are very picky with short circuits.
    Connect a female terminal to the wires that will run in the umbilical from the toolhead to the controller.

    Connect the wires from the Klicky Probe to the Zprobe port, on GND and PC14 bin (I reused the LDO kit connector)
    When testing the docking and attachment of the probe, make sure that the back magnet of the probe and the dock magnet do not touch, if they do, it will make attaching the probe much harder.
    Step 5: klipper configuration
    Unfortunately, I do not know how to document RRF probe configuration, so here is only Klipper configurations.
    As of right now, klipper and RRF have no inbuilt support for a removable probe, fortunately, it does support very robust macro programming, so you will need to add macros to be able to dock and attach the probe as necessary, as well as supporting the rest of the functions that require the usage of a probe.
    The macros and instructions on how to configure are located on the Macro directory, you need to check that before continuing on the build, there are also some RRF scripts that work for the Voron V2.4.
    For the Voron v0, these are the recommended configuration on the klicky-variables.cfg:
    variable_verbose: True # Enable verbose output variable_travel_speed: 100 # how fast all other travel moves will be performed when running these macros variable_dock_speed: 50 # how fast should the toolhead move when docking the probe for the final movement variable_release_speed: 55 # how fast should the toolhead move to release the hold of the magnets after docking variable_z_drop_speed: 20 # how fast the z will lower when moving to the z location to clear the probe variable_safe_z: 25 # Minimum Z for attach/dock and homing functions # if true it will move the bed away from the nozzle when Z is not homed variable_enable_z_hop: True # True v0 #Dock move Variable_dockmove_x: 0 # Final toolhead movement to release Variable_dockmove_y: 40 # the probe on the dock Variable_dockmove_z: 0 # (can be negative) #Attach move Variable_attachmove_x: 30 # Final toolhead movement to Dock Variable_attachmove_y: 0 # the probe on the dock Variable_attachmove_z: 0 # (can be negative) variable_max_bed_x: 120 # maximum Bed size avoids doing a probe_accuracy outside the bed variable_max_bed_y: 120 # maximum Bed size avoids doing a probe_accuracy outside the bed  
    The sections below should be added to klicky-specific.cfg, that way, it will be loaded on klipper via a klicky-probe.cfg include.
    If you would like to use a bed mesh, this is the recommended settings:
    [bed_mesh] mesh_min: 15,15 mesh_max: 105,105 speed: 100 horizontal_move_z: 20 probe_count: 3,3 #if you would like more detail, use 5,5 here relative_reference_index: 4 #if you use 5,5 above, place 12 here move_check_distance: 3 algorithm: lagrange fade_start: 1 fade_end: 10 fade_target: 0 split_delta_z: 0.0125 mesh_pps: 2,2  
    Regarding the Screws Tilt Adjust (Klipper probes the three screws positions and recommends the number of turns to level the bed), you can use this configuration as a reference, the probe should be over the screws when you do send the nozzle to the respective coordinate:
    [screws_tilt_adjust] screw1: 100,115 #For Long probe screw1_name: back right screw2: 0,115 #For Long probe screw2_name: back left screw3: 60,5 #For Long probe screw3_name: front screw horizontal_move_z: 20 speed: 100 screw_thread: CW-M3  
    You should test this and adjust accordingly.
    This is probe configuration is with the default Voron v0.1 SKR mini E3 v2 configuration, with the probe connected to the PC14 pin, please update it to your specific configuration:
    [probe] #with Long Klicky Probe pin: ^PC14 x_offset: 8 #(9.5 with front cowling) y_offset: 0 z_offset: 14.5 speed: 7 lift_speed: 7 samples: 3 samples_result: median sample_retract_dist: 2 samples_tolerance: 0.01 samples_tolerance_retries: 10  
    I recommend a probing speed between 5mm/s and 10mm/s, you may experiment to see what is the better speed for your machine. Please confirm that if you are not using a endstop pin, that the pull-up is enable by using the ^ sign, normally the endstop pins have a hardware solution that does not require this configuration. Depending on your switch you may need to add a ! to invert that pin (normally open vs. normally closed).
    Z endstop and Probe configuration
    If you want to use the Klicky Probe as your Z endstop, you need to change the endstop_pin: under the [stepper_z] section to probe:z_virtual_endstop.
    Just comment out the old one and add a new line endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop.
    You will need to update the Z probing variables, set the two variables below to 0, it will probe the middle of the bed.
    variable_z_endstop_x: 0 variable_z_endstop_y: 0  
    Assembled Klicky Probe

    Step 6: klipper Dock/Undock configuration
    X max position adjustment
    Even in the stock X endstop with a lever, you normally can add a extra mm of X travel due to the lever extra trigger distance:
    [stepper_x] position_endstop: 120 position_max: 121 Adjust Probe Pickup Position
    One of the last things we need to do is to adjust the probe pickup position.
    Make sure that the x and y axis are homed and the probe is manually attached to mount.
    Now manually (with gcode commands) move the toolhead to the probe dock and move it so far to the back that the probe docks, note the Y-Position.
    Next, again manually, move the toolhead parallel to the probe dock until the probe it is perfectly aligned with the mount, note the X.Position.
    Open your klicky-variables.cfg and find the #dock location section and edit the following two line
    variable_docklocation_x: variable_docklocation_y: Test now with the ATTACH_PROBE and DOCK_PROBE if it docks and is removed correctly, some common points that can give problems are:
    the dock magnet is touching the back probe magnet, they cannot touch, push them further in the probe is hitting the dock arms, please move the toolhead more to the side where the probe does not hit, by 1mm at a time, until it works the probe is falling after being release, the dock is too far away, you can insert one or several 1mm spacer to move the dock and solve this WARNING when you are doing PROBE_ACCURACY, make sure that the probe is above the bed, the PROBE_ACCURACY macro does not move the toolhead in X or Y.
    Congratulations, your done :).
    Firsts tests
    Before starting to test klicky, and from past mistakes, please remove your PEI sheet (the probe works on the magnetic sheet) and if possible, change your printer maximum speed, acceleration and Z current, on klipper with TMC steppers, you can do this:
    SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_z CURRENT=0.2 SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT ACCEL=1000 SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT VELOCITY=50 Enjoy your Klicky Probe!
    Dock and undock video
     
    It is working very well, if you decide to use it, give me feedback, either here, or on discord, my discord user is JosAr#0517.
    By standing on the shoulders of giants, lets see if we can see further.
     
     

    2,321 downloads

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  2. Magnetic Grill Cover

    Magnetic Exhaust Grill Cover
    Depending on my printer location and / or cooling needs, I sometimes want the exhaust vent shut off to just rely on recirculated filtering with a nevermore or similar. This mod replaces the default exhaust grill with one featuring magnets and a captive path for the bowden tube. There is then a magnetic cover that will fit around the bowden and seal the grill. It's intended to be installed with the exhaust as normal, but should also be able to attach without by using a couple of M3 nuts and the default [a]_exhaust_filter_mount_x2.stl mounts.

    BOM
    8x 6x3mm round magnets (Voron BOM spec) 50cm foam tape 1mm thick, 5mm wide. It was designed for this tape but you can probably get away with varying both thickness and width depending on magnet strength, or even leaving it out if your print is flat enough to seal and you don't mind magnets going clack against each other. 2x M3 Nuts (optional) Installation
    Insert magnets into outer four pockets on each piece. They should be push fit, but a dab of superglue wouldn't hurt. Test fit the bowden tube on the middle grill hole. The part is designed to be particularly tight around the tube, and ideally you'd clear the hole with a 4mm bit to get it nice and snug to the tube. Stick the foam tape around the outside rim of the cover. It doesn't matter if you do this in multiple pieces (as there are some awkward turns). Just try to get it flat and continuous to aid the seal. Install exhaust grill as normal / using M3 nuts Feed the bowden tube through the centre hole
    Notes
    As previously mentioned, the bowden hole is intended to be tight to the tube. You can either drill it for perfection, or adjust the size in the CAD using parameters in Fusion. If you have other magnets then you can also tweak the parameters in Fusion for these (to an extent). If you don't want to lose the cover, you can hang it from the bottom pair of magnets. You lose a bit of ventilation doing so, but it's one less bit of clutter. Thanks
    Many thanks to Lanman1 for being a guinea pig for this and giving feedback!

    131 downloads

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  3. Side Panels

    Side panels with integrated hinge.
    Carefully drill the 1mm hole to 2.5mm and cut an M3 thread into it
    Required material:
    2x M3x30 BHCS
    1x 30x30x10 5V Fan for Raspberry Pi cooling
    1x https://www.amazon.com/ZHSMS-Universal-Replacement-Motorcycle-Waterproof/dp/B08L33RFHY/
    1x https://www.amazon.com/Angled-USB3-0-Extension-Industrial-Computer/dp/B07LBFPG16/

    0 downloads

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  4. ESP32 DIN Rail Bracket

    This is a DIN rail bracket for an ESP32 bought from AZ-Delivery via Amazon
    May also fit for other ESP32 dev boards, but I have not tested. The spacing for the bores is: 23mm x 51mm
    Please use the generic PCB DIN Clip and mount these on top.

    23 downloads

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  5. V01 Motor Panel No Rub

    Voron v0.1
     
    What is this?
    This modification keeps the umbilical and reverse bowden tube from rubbing against the motor belts.
    How do I use it?
    Replaces the Motor Panel and reuse the same M3x8 screws
    How should I print this?
    Same as any other Voron part. Printed with Polylite ASA
     

    54 downloads

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  6. Tophat Exhaust Filter

    After growing tired of my room smelling of ABS, I decided to create an exhaust and filter system that could be printed entirely on a v0. This mod utilizes 5 layers of 10mm thick activated charcoal sheets, a 60mm x 25mm fan and an optional Roomba HEPA filter. I have tested it throughly and my design almost entirely eliminates the ABS smell during and after printing. 
    The entire assembly (With the HEPA filter attachment) sticks out about 110 mm past the rear of the printer.
    BOM
    4x M3x6 screws 8x M3x6 or M3x10 screws 4x M3x30 or M3x35 screws 16x Heat set inserts 10mm Activated Charcoal sheets Link 24v 60mm x 25mm fan Link OPTIONAL Roomba HEPA filter Link Assembly
    Before printing the Fan_Cover make sure to check where the wires from your fan exit the housing and select the corresponding stl. The fan wires snake through the assembly and exit through one of the holes in the grill. You will also need to cut 5 55mm x 90mm sheets of activated charcoal to fit into the chamber
    Wiring and Klipper
    If you're using an SKR mini v1.2 then you must move the hotend fan from pin FAN0 to FAN1. This allows the exhaust fan to be controlled via PWM instead of the hotend fan since the 1.2 board only has 1 controllable fan port. If you're using the v2 then you don't have to worry about that step because both fan ports are controllable.
    Add this to your config assuming the exhaust fan is plugged into FAN0 (PA8)
    [fan_generic exhaust_fan] # Exhaust Fan pin: PA8 max_power: 1.0 shutdown_speed: 0 kick_start_time: 0.5 You can then control the fan speed with
    SET_FAN_SPEED fan=exhaust_fan SPEED="number between 0 and 1" For example, to put the fan speed at 30% use,
    SET_FAN_SPEED fan=exhaust_fan SPEED=0.3 Running the fan at 30% speed during a print has lead to a dramatic decrease in ABS fumes and pretty much made them unnoticeable. I also run the fan at 100% speed at the end of a print to fully exhaust the print chamber. Adding foam tape to seal up any gaps between panels and the top-hat will also greatly increase the reduction of fumes.

    229 downloads

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  7. 350mm Side Skirt_for Generic Power Plug v2.4 r1

    Right rear side b for a Voron 2.4 r1 350 with generic power plug.

    42 downloads

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  8. Voron-0 Umbilical PLUS (with integrated ADXL345)

    The Voron-0 Umbilical is a well known and very useful addition to your 3D Printer, originally created by GitHub user timmit99 and can be found in the official Voron-Hardware repository here.
    In this new 'Plus' version, I have added a permanent ADXL345 Accelerometer to the Toolhead board, to make input shaper tuning (and possibly other interesting use-cases) more accessible to users. The Molex MicroFit connector was changed from a 14-pin to 20-pin version to acommodate the additional wires for the ADXL345.
    The Toolhead PCB can be ordered pre-assembled from JLCPCB (using the included CPL and BOM file) so you do not have to solder the delicate electronics yourself, just the connectors (as you need to do with the original V0-Umbilical).
    You can find a full README and Photos/CAD/Design data at my github repository: https://github.com/skuep/V0-Umbilical-Plus


    Frame PCB BOM
    Part Quantity Notes LCSC Part Number Link 20 Pin Socket 1 MOLEX 430452012 C485575 https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/Wire-To-Board-Wire-To-Wire-Connector_MOLEX-430452012_C485575.html SMD Thermistor 1 100K 0805 Thermistor C143680 https://lcsc.com/product-detail/NTC-Thermistors_Vishay-Intertech-NTCS0805E3104FXT_C143680.html 2 pin JST XH 5 2.5mm pitch C158012 https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Wire-To-Board-Wire-To-Wire-Connector_JST-Sales-America-B2B-XH-A-LF-SN_C158012.html 3 pin JST XH 2 2.5mm pitch C144394 https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Wire-To-Board-Wire-To-Wire-Connector_JST-Sales-America-B3B-XH-A-LF-SN_C144394.html 4 pin JST XH 3 2.5mm pitch C144395 https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Wire-To-Board-Wire-To-Wire-Connector_JST-Sales-America-B4B-XH-A-LF-SN_C144395.html 6 pin JST XH 1 2.5mm pitch C144397 https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/Wire-To-Board-Wire-To-Wire-Connector_JST-Sales-America_B6B-XH-A-LF-SN_JST-Sales-America-B6B-XH-A-LF-SN_C144397.html Screw Terminal 1 5.08mm pitch C8465 https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Screw-terminal_Ningbo-Kangnex-Elec-WJ500V-5-08-2P_C8465.html Optional Parts
    Part Quantity Notes LCSC Part Number Link 0805 10uF Capacitor 3 Use if using BARE neopixel IC's. Strips have these already. C17024 https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Multilayer-Ceramic-Capacitors-MLCC-SMD-SMT_Samsung-Electro-Mechanics-CL21A106KPFNNNE_C17024.html Toolhead PCB BOM
    Part Quantity Notes LCSC Part Number Link 20 Pin Socket (Right Angle) 1 Molex 430452000 C485576 https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/Wire-To-Board-Wire-To-Wire-Connector_MOLEX-430452000_C485576.html 2 pin JST XH 6 B2B-XH C158012 https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Wire-To-Board-Wire-To-Wire-Connector_JST-Sales-America-B2B-XH-A-LF-SN_C158012.html 4 pin JST XH 1 B4B-XH C144395 https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Wire-To-Board-Wire-To-Wire-Connector_JST-Sales-America-B4B-XH-A-LF-SN_C144395.html LP2985-33DBVR 1 3.3V LDO C95414 https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/Linear-Voltage-Regulators-LDO_Texas-Instruments-LP2985-33DBVR_C95414.html ADXL345BCCZ 1 Accelerometer C9667 https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/Motion-Sensors-Accelerometers_Analog-Devices-ADXL345BCCZ-RL7_C9667.html 10 Ohm Resistor 2 0603 size C22859 https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/Chip-Resistor-Surface-Mount_UNI-ROYAL-Uniroyal-Elec-0603WAF100JT5E_C22859.html 10 kOhm Resistor 1 0603 size C25804 https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/Chip-Resistor-Surface-Mount_UNI-ROYAL-Uniroyal-Elec-0603WAF1002T5E_C25804.html 4.7uF Capacitor 2 0603 size C19666 https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/Multilayer-Ceramic-Capacitors-MLCC-SMD-SMT_Samsung-Electro-Mechanics-CL10A475KO8NNNC_C19666.html 10nF Capacitor 2 0603 size C57112 https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Multilayer-Ceramic-Capacitors-MLCC-SMD-SMT_10nF-103-10-50V_C57112.html/?href=jlc-SMT Corresponding CPL and BOM files are included in the repository. Using these files you can easily get yourself a ready-made assembled PCB from JLCPCB so you don't have to have the skills to solder the fine-pitch and 0603 packages.
    Umbilical cable
    The Umbilical cable is a 220-240mm dual ended 20P (2x10) microfit cable. The connectors are wired 1:1 so pin 1 connects to pin 1 and so forth for all 20 pins.
    Cable BOM
    Part Quantity Notes LCSC Part Number Link 20 Pin Plug 2 Molex 430252000 C485324 https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Connectors-Housings_MOLEX-430252000_C485324.html Crimps 20 AWG 12 Molex 430300001/430300007 C259786 https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Line-Pressing-Terminals_MOLEX-430300001_C259786.html Crimps 26 AWG 28 Molex 430300004/430300010 C259765 https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Line-Pressing-Terminals_MOLEX-430300004_C259765.html 20AWG Wire 12 220mm Sections   PTFE/Silicone/Hefulon for motion rated, PVC could work since it isn't constraind to a cable chain 26AWG Wire 28       MicroFit connectors support two different ranges of conductor thickness using different wire crimp ferrules. I recommend that you realize the stepper motor and heater wires with 20AWG wire (0.5mm²) and the remaining wires in 26AWG wire (0.14mm²) to save on weight and accelerated mass.
    Hints and Remarks
    Extruder Stepper Direction
    The umbilical cable reverses the stepper rotation direction. I.e. you need to invert the DIR pin of the extruder motor in your printer.cfg file.
    [extruder] .... dir_pin: PB4 # Add ! (or remove ! if already there) before 'PB4' ....  
    Mounting the Toolhead PCB
    The umbilical toolhead PCB uses heat stake inserts in order to mount it to the motor screws. In some cases (i.e. LDO motors), the extruder motor already has an additional thread, which has to be either removed by drilling the motor holes with a 3mm spiral drill. If you do not want to drill into the motor, you can use M3x10 captive screws, which are unfortunately hard to find. These screws have a narrowed section and a short thread at the tip so they only 'grab' the thread of the heat stake inserts.
    Additional chamber thermistor on SKR mini V2.0
    If you are using the SKR mini V2.0 board and you want to connect the chamber thermistor, you can use Timmit99's expansion board (https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Hardware/tree/master/SKR-Mini_TFT_Thermistor_Board).
    If you want an easier and faster solution, you can move the Z-STOP endswitch pin and connect it the E0-STOP pin using a simple self-made JST 2-pin to 3-pin adapter (See Photos folder) or by removing the crimp pins from the 2-pin JST and insert them into the housing of a 3-pin JST header. Once the Z-STOP pin is freed up, you can use it for your thermistor. This method needs the following printer.cfg changes:
    [stepper_z] ... endstop_pin: ^PC15 # Conversion for additional thermistor (use E0-STOP for Z-STOP) ... [temperature_sensor chamber] sensor_type: Generic 3950 sensor_pin: PC2 gcode_id: C pullup_resistor: 10000  
    Connecting the ADXL345 to a Raspberry Pi
    The ADXL345 circuit on the toolhead PCB includes a R-C filter and a 3.3V low-dropout regulator to deliver a clean power supply. Thus you can use the official drawings shown in the corresponding docs (https://www.klipper3d.org/Measuring_Resonances.html), with one small change. You need to connect VCC to +5V (Pin 2 or Pin 4) instead of 3.3V (Pin 1) on the Raspberry Pi extension header (See Photos folder). Then follow the official docs for setting the resonance measurement up.
     
     
     

    184 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  9. V0.1 - Mini Afterburner ADXL345 Mount

    This is a modified version of the strain relief for the mini AB, which provides a well-hidden permanent mount for a cheap Chinese ADXL345 module.
    You need 2x 4mm heat inserts as well as 2x M3 6mm screws to attach it.
      

    65 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  10. Schaffner FN-286-10-06 plug panel for 2.4r2

    I love the Schaffner power inlet - highest quality, and much more safe than other cheap Chinese ones.
    So I made a quick mod for my next 2.4r2 build.
    Hope you like it

    14 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    5 comments

    Submitted

  11. CRTouch Snap Mount

    Voron 2.4 CR Touch Snap Mount (Beta)

    Drop-in Probe Replacement for v2.4 Using Single or Double MGN9 Rail(s).
    Stealthburner Compatible but Will NOT Fit on MGN12 (Trident or V2.4r2)!

    I've been looking for simpler alternatives to the common probe mods that is also compatible with the standard MGN9 mount. This requires no modification to the printer and uses existing mounting holes and routing. It does require part of the probe's shell be trimmed and must only be powered by 5V!
    The big question is, are these even reliable on a Voron? Well, it is well known that BL Touch probes have issues with heat in closed chambers but the CR Touch photoelectric sensor and metal pin design seem to be better suited for this. I'm currently testing reliability but so far have had no significant issues inside an enclosure with temperatures ranging from ~45-60C. Creality lists a max operating temp of 65C but I haven't found much more information. I'm now testing on my v2.4 and will update with any issues.
    I'd appreciate feedback from anyone who has used a CR Touch on their Voron or would like to help test. I suggest newer builders stay with the standard options or the well-tested clicky mod.
    Finalized CAD files will be posted after beta.

    BOM
    Size Qty Creality CR Touch 1 M3x8 or M3x10 BHCS/SHCS 2 M3x5 Heat-Set Insert 2
    Rear Spacer is Optional

    Instructions
    With the wiring detached, carefully seperate the 2 shell pieces by gently pressing the 2 clips on each side. Only the probe side will be used. Be very careful not to break the clips off.

    Cut off the top mounting tabs so nothing extends past the sides of the shell. I used a dremel finished off by a file in about 5 min. Careful not to damage the components and blow off any debris build up, especially near the sensor.

    Press two M3 heat-set inserts into the printed mount then snap the shells together. Make sure all snaps are secured. Tolerances are intentionally tight. If multiple tabs are broken, a strip of electrical tape can be used.

    Slide in the probe then attach it from the back with two M3x8 screws (M3x10 recommended with alignment spacer). Longer screws could be used but be careful not to hit the PCB.

    Examples shown are on a single MGN9 rail mod

    Please contact [email protected] to report issues or suggestions.

    102 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    3 comments

    Submitted

  12. Ab Plug Microfit 1x4

    Voron 2.4 AB Plug (Microfit 1x4)
    This mod is to add a plug to the gantry to connect the A

    120 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    1 comment

    Submitted

  13. Esp8266 Nodemcu Din Mount

    ESP8266 NodeMCU Din Mount
    Designed to hold an ESP8266 NodeMCU. ESPs are commonly used to control LEDs using the WLED project. The ESP can be mounted in either direction.
    The model included can be mounted to the original 2.4 din clip or the newer Trident din clip.
    Printing
    Default voron settings No supports needed BOM
    Size Qty M3x8 4 M2x10 2 Trident PCB Din Clip 1

    18 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  14. Lrs Screw Terminal Cover

    LRS Screw Terminal Cover
    Designed to cover the screw terminals for several LRS style PSUs. Other Meanwell PSU may work. Feel free to ping me in discord to add to the compatibility list below.
    Pro tip: These are very snug to the point it will bow. This is intentional as it was designed to take some effort to take off.
    Printing
    Default voron settings No supports needed Compatibility List
    LRS-50 LRS-200

    470 downloads

       (2 reviews)

    0 comments

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  15. Kirigami LED Bed Front

    V0 Kirigami bed front with space for LED
    This is a modifaction of the V0 Kirigami front bed made by Kosh42EFG

    BOM
    Kirigami bed: https://github.com/christophmuellerorg/voron_0_kirigami_bed 1x Kirigami_LED_Bed_Front.stl printed in ABS using standard Voron settings 1x Kirigami_LED_Bed_Front_defuser.stl printed in any white material 2x M3x8 CHCS 2x M3 nuts 1x LED. I use a single neopixel mini button 4x wires for the neopixel (you can use three if this is the only one in the chain) Installation
    Install the kirigami bed Wire the neopixel and place in the slot with the wires coming out through the tunnel Add the defuser in front of the neopixel, make sure it is a tight fit to hold it well (print thicker if needed) Fit the Kirigami_LED_Bed_Front.stl to the front of the kirigami bed using the M3 screws and nuts Add configuration change to the printer.cfg in klipper: [neopixel my_leds] pin: PA8 chain_count: 1 color_order: GRB initial_RED: 1.0 initial_GREEN: 0.0 initial_BLUE: 0.0

    98 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  16. V0 Belts Holder

    Belts Holder
    The purpose of this mod it's to ease the printer belt's maintenance.






    Usage
    Here I needed to replace my x-carriage part. It broke and I glued it for a few days as an emergency.

    First, you attach the belts holder to the x-axis inserting it just behind the belts. Then you fix with belt holder's bars the belts, don't tighten too much.

    I could remove the x-carriage without having to lose the idlers or have to fight with belts to replace it.


    122 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    2 comments

    Submitted

  17. Vsw More Robust Belt Paths

    More robust Voron Switchwire belt routing
    This mod was created because the original stock parts didn't work well for me. The major part are the moded stepper cages. The stepper cages got tilted usually during tensioning and leading to the axle of the stepper not being parallel with the horizontal plane, which lead to yawning of the belt and increased wear and tear of the belt. Additionaly, the cages parts a and b had the tendency to open up in the bottom, especially when the tensioning screw is one or two mm too long.
    The modded version has a through-screw in the bottom and additional screw slot on the top to attach it to the vertical extrusion, to help with proper leveling of the stepper axle. You'd probably be able to address these issues without if you were careful and knew about them. Using this design is just much faster.
    Additional mods
    The xz blocks have a slot for M5 button head screw that can be used to fix tilting of the blocks w.r.t. the plane defined by the X gantry extrusion. The original blocks have already some measures to prevent this, but apparently those were not sufficient in my case (I was worried about tightening the screws too much, as the plastic already started to give and yet there was still a bit of tilting play).
    The upper xz blocks/supports were modded just to help more carefuly define in what position and orientation the blocks should stay. These have the least effect, IMO.
    With these, I had printed almost 400 hours without any belt-related issues and the belts look still fresh, no signs of fraying. There exist also similar unofficial mods on Voron discord addressing similar issues but I think this is the most exhaustive version.
    Print Instructions
    Print Settings: Standard Voron PIF sttings -- at least 40 percent infill, 4 perims, 5 solid layers top and bottom
    Quantities: Quantities are noted in the filenames -- each part needs to be printed only in single copy.
    Installation
    Install should be fairly straightforward, the naming of the parts should follow the original naming, so you could follow the SW manual. Few pictures Please note that the last picture contains an old revision of the upper XZ block (that was reducing the Z travel), but the provided version installs the same way and does not reduce the Z travel. Generally speaking, I suggest tightening the screw attaching the stepper to the vertical extrusion as a very last step.
    Overal BOM
    6x M5x10 BHCS 6x M5 T-Nut for 3030 2x M3x16 SHCS 2x M3 Threaded Insert (standard

    539 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    1 comment

    Submitted

  18. Vsw More Robust Belt Paths

    More robust Voron Switchwire belt routing
    This mod was created because the original stock parts didn't work well for me. The major part are the moded stepper cages. The stepper cages got tilted usually during tensioning and leading to the axle of the stepper not being parallel with the horizontal plane, which lead to yawning of the belt and increased wear and tear of the belt. Additionaly, the cages parts a and b had the tendency to open up in the bottom, especially when the tensioning screw is one or two mm too long.
    The modded version has a through-screw in the bottom and additional screw slot on the top to attach it to the vertical extrusion, to help with proper leveling of the stepper axle. You'd probably be able to address these issues without if you were careful and knew about them. Using this design is just much faster.
    Additional mods
    The xz blocks have a slot for M5 button head screw that can be used to fix tilting of the blocks w.r.t. the plane defined by the X gantry extrusion. The original blocks have already some measures to prevent this, but apparently those were not sufficient in my case (I was worried about tightening the screws too much, as the plastic already started to give and yet there was still a bit of tilting play).
    The upper xz blocks/supports were modded just to help more carefuly define in what position and orientation the blocks should stay. These have the least effect, IMO.
    With these, I had printed almost 400 hours without any belt-related issues and the belts look still fresh, no signs of fraying. There exist also similar unofficial mods on Voron discord addressing similar issues but I think this is the most exhaustive version.
    Print Instructions
    Print Settings: Standard Voron PIF sttings -- at least 40 percent infill, 4 perims, 5 solid layers top and bottom
    Quantities: Quantities are noted in the filenames -- each part needs to be printed only in single copy.
    Installation
    Install should be fairly straightforward, the naming of the parts should follow the original naming, so you could follow the SW manual. Few pictures Please note that the last picture contains an old revision of the upper XZ block (that was reducing the Z travel), but the provided version installs the same way and does not reduce the Z travel. Generally speaking, I suggest tightening the screw attaching the stepper to the vertical extrusion as a very last step.
    Overal BOM
    6x M5x10 BHCS 6x M5 T-Nut for 3030 2x M3x16 SHCS 2x M3 Threaded Insert (standard

    185 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  19. RGB LED Grid For SB

    RGB LED grid for the Stealthburner (a.k.a. Rainbow Barf Logo LED)

    This PCB, created in KiCad 6.0, is a collaboration between me and tanaes (a.k.a. whoppingpochard). It's a RBG 8× LED grid to be used on the logo of the Voron Stealthburner, to give the user more animation options than a single, boring RGB LED. 😁
    Important note: this PCB uses 2.0mm × 2.0mm WS2812B RGB LEDs, they should not be used with RGBW LEDs in the same chain unless you know what are you doing, as they use different data protocols. The usage is possible, but it isn't straightforward. There is information that a workaround for mixing RGB and RGBW LEDs is being developed at the Klipper-led_effect repository, which is what whoppingpochard and I recommend for controlling this board.
    Updates
    January 16th, 2022: Initial release.
    February 18th, 2022: added link for whoppingpochard's Rainbow Barf's repository, and info about Klipper-led-effect developing a solution for mixing RGB and RGBW LEDs. There are little cosmetic differences between that version and the one I've uploaded here, nothing that will change the way it works. Choose whatever suits you better. 🙂
    March 17th, 2022: added the KiCad version that was used to design the PCB.

    63 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  20. 2.4 Window Ventilation System

    I wanted to be able to print ABS and ASA in my house without having to move my printer to a well ventilated area, so I started looking into ventilation options. I wasn't able to find anything that seemed to mount cleanly to my machine and look decent running to my window, so I designed this system for my printer.

    BOM:
    Parts to order 2.5" Hose Clamps x2 2.5" Flexible Dust Collector Hose (3ft in picture) x1 Weather Stripping (10ft in picture) M2 self-tapping screw Plastic Sheet (1.5mm-2mm) Parts to Print 60mm Fan to 2.5" Hose Adaptor x1 Hose Adaptor x1 Hose Adaptor Mount x1 One-way Valve x1 Left Link x1 Right Link x1 Center Link x? (You will need to measure your window for the proper number of links) Printing:
    40% infill Supports needed 4 line walls Filament: Polymaker's Polylite ASA If you are using the stock Voron 2.4 exhaust system, you can attach the hose adaptor directly to the rear fan using the screws already holding the fan in place. All of the links snap very tightly together and may require pliers to fully seat the lock. You can also insert the one way valve into the hose adapter on the window side of the hose:


    Then just attach all of the other pieces according to the images below:

    Once you have everything hooked together your can wrap the window vent that is now sized for your window with the weather stripping to get a good seal on your window.


    One note, I was printing several test versions of this before I got to a full system. There are couple links you will see in the center of my image that have a smaller lip on them. I just reused these from previous test pieces so I didn't waste more plastic. Your center links should be consistent all the way across the middle section of the window vent.

    UPDATE:
    3/9/2022 - Added a one-way valve to prevent outside air from causing a backdraft into your printer when your exhaust fan is disabled. This has made a significant impact on reducing plastic fumes in my house. After adding this, I can't smell any plastic unless the doors on the printer are open.

    1,927 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    8 comments

    Updated

  21. Voron 0.1 - Pi Cam Mount

    A webcam mount for Voron 0.1.
    Not the best position for a cam but while printing it does its job and it isn't attached to the tophat. It also requires no long cable.
    You need the following parts:
    - 4x M3 8mm screws
    - 4x M2 6mm screws
    - 2x Zipties OR 2x M3 15mm screws.
     

    260 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  22. Voron Design Logo STl File

    Just thought maybe others might like .stl file as option, Seems to scale nicely.

    215 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  23. Voron 2.4 300mm No Screen Skirt Mod

    A simple mod for no screen skirt

    210 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  24. Voron2.4 GE5C

    Voron 2.4 GE5C Z joint

    BOM
    Screws Size Qty M3x12 4 M3x16 or M3x20 SHCS 16 M5x20 4 Ge5C Bearing 4 M5x1mm spacer 4 If using Halleffect 6x3 magnet 1
    First just insert GE5C bearing , it should just pop in


    Now if you are using the

    933 downloads

       (2 reviews)

    3 comments

    Submitted

  25. 4channel Relay Under Deck Mount

    4 Channel Relay Under Deck Mount
    Mod to mount a 4 channel GPIO controlled relay in the electronics compartment.
    Printing
    Default voron settings No supports needed BOM
    Size Qty 4 Channel relay 1 M3x8 or M3x6 4 M5x8 2 M5 T-Nut 2

    16 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

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