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Printable Voron User Mods

Voron User Mods, or "UserMods", are a collection of community created and Team FDM curated modification for Voron Printers. All of these mods are available on the VoronUsers Github repo and unless otherwise specified follow the Voron communities GPL3.0 Licensing. Use any Mods at your own risk, if you make modification please share them on the VoronUsers repo.

Mod Authors: Have a Voron mod? Upload it at TeamFDM.com and let us know you're the author. We will ensure you can update and curate your files for more feedback! Please include tags for what Voron, or extruder your mod is compatible with. 

660 files

  1. Lights, Camera, Voron

    Mounts for LED strip lights and a Pi camera on the V0.1.
    Details
    There are three parts: a normal rail for mounting just LED strips, a rail with a mount for a Picam, and a rail with two lugs for zip ties. Each rail is 80mm long, with the intention of using two rails on each side. If you only want to mount lights, print four of the normal rail. If you also want to mount a camera, print two of the normal rails, and one each of the camera and zip tie rails.
    The rails work with 8mm wide sticky-back LED strips.
    Mounting the Picam using this mod is a tradeoff. It is in a relatively safe place, and provides an OK (but not great) view of printing. The camera covers most of the bed. Sometimes the mini Afterburner gets in the way of the view. Mounting the camera in the tophat would give a better view, but at the expense of needing to deal with the cable when removing the tophat.
     
    Assembly
    To install the rails, you'll need:
    8x M3 hex or square nuts 8x M3x8mm screws To mount the Picam, you'll additionally need:
    2x M2x6mm screws Insert the M3 nuts into the top of the top extrusions. This is pretty easy to do even after the printer is totally assembled.
    Feedback
    Feel free to contact me - I'm ademuri#2806 on the discord.
     
     
     

    16 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  2. Voron 0.1 lights USB and RJ45 connector

    1. Skirt mod that allows access to the Raspberry Pi's RJ45 and USB ports without opening the panels. Uses cheap panel mount USB and RJ45 connectors.
    2. Light mount for LED lights which draws powered from the power supply. Light switch is besides the USB port.
     

    26 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  3. C92X PsycHoShafts Mount

    Important Notes
    Hello everyone,
    Here is my C920 camera mod, please follow the disassembly guide below to remove the current mount off the camera. Please keep the 4 bottom screws from the mount as you will need them for my mod.
    Instructions For Disassembly
    Found Here!
    This mod allows you to set 2 point position for your camera,
    BOM
    Qty Item 2 M3x40mm 1 M3x10mm 2 Nuts 1 M3 Hammerhead nut https://camo.githubusercontent.com/758a4b22a5c56662c568b7ffb24373659bc0266bcc721e882b16ef4f2bb51f16/68747470733a2f2f7777772e70617970616c6f626a656374732e636f6d2f656e5f55532f692f62746e2f62746e5f646f6e6174655f4c472e676966
       
     

    261 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    1 comment

    Updated

  4. V0 Belt Tension Helper

    A belt tension helper - is a tool to do pre-tension of belts

    A tool act as a helper to do initial belt tension. It is able to do individual belt tension or synced tension of belts

    BOM
    2 or 3 M3 8mm bolts to mount helper to X-carriage
    2x15mm M5 bolts to fix belts when needed
    2x40mm M5 bolts and M5 nuts to perform tension

    While printing use higher infill for bottom or use cylidric modifies to add strength for pads where M5 bolts will do pressure See example here:
     

    Steps to perform:
    Step 1. Mount bottom part on X carriage and push thought belts. Keep in mind that loose belt backs square nut (use holes for regulate them)

    Step 2. Put top part and pass thought belts. Screw tension bolts to have zero minimal gap between bottom and top plate

    Step 3. Fix belts on top part but leave loosen on bottom

    Step 4. Tension belt by turning the bolts synchronously (do it sequentially by one turn for each)

    Step 5. When belt are in tesion fix them using service holes by allen hex key

    Step 6. Loose all M5 and unmount top and bottom tool parts
    (Optional). When need to do individual belt tension use combination of bolts fix or loosen. See example for case when need to do extra tension for top belt

     

    67 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  5. VSW Double 60mm Fan Mount

    Double 60mm Fan Mount for Voron Switchwire
    This is a simple mount for two 60mm fans in Switchwire's electronics compartment. It uses screws instead of VHB tape and was inspired by this mod. Of course you can also print it twice and mount four fans.
    Note that using fans in this position only makes sense if you use the deck and bottom panels, as they form an air tunnel. Without them, the fans will only blow against the frame and the air will not reach the electronics.
    BOM
    Item Qty. Note BHCS M5x10 2 M3 Heat Set Insert 4 SHCS M3x25 4 Screw length depends on the fans used Images

    41 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  6. AB Turbo Mod

    Voron Afterburner Turbo Mod
    This is a purely cosmetic mod for the Afterburner to bring it's appearance closer to Stealthburner.
    After having seen Stealthburner, Afterburner's design started to look a little dated to me. So I designed this mod. It simply replaces both of Afterburner's front parts with a single part. The only new hardware required are two shorter screws.
    BOM
    Item Qty. Note SHCS M3x20 2 Replace two SHCS M3x30 Images

    129 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  7. HEPA Filter Exhaust

    HEPA Filter Exhaust for Voron 1.x/2.x
    I've designed a new exhaust which uses a 120x120x25 mm fan and HEPA filters (compatible with MELEDEN, RIGOGLIOSO, JINPUS and LTLKY air purifiers). This is a direct replacement for the stock air exhaust system.
    Configured in Klipper to power the fan at 50%, and coupled with the nevermore micro, this seems to add to negative air pressure in the chamber and have a noticeable impact on reducing fumes, while only reducing chamber temperature by a couple of degrees C at the exhaust port.

    Bill of Materials
    New Parts
    1x 120x120x25mm fan such as Noctua NF-F12 iPPC-2000. (note that I have an adjustable voltage on my control board, but make sure your fan matches the voltage for your system.) HEPA Filter such as Nispira True HEPA Filter Replacement with Activated Carbon Parts from Voron BOM
    Parts here are already listed in the Voron 1.x (Trident)

    164 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    4 comments

    Submitted

  8. Klipper Expander Mount

    Voron-Mods
    Mounting tray for the Klipper Expander Board. I didn't care for the other 2 mounts i tried. Requires 2 M3 x 6mm screws. There are 2 versions of this mount.
    1: Only has a logo on the back for use with VHB tape
    2: Has logo and 4 M3 countersunk holes for bhcs for mounting on rails

    170 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  9. Belt Tension Wrench

    Belt Adjustment Wrench
    This is a wrench that goes over the AB belt tensioner nuts to help with fine tuning the belt tension.

    115 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  10. Scrubby

    Overview
    Scrubby is a filament dust scrubber that prevents any dust from reaching your nozzle and burning, causing partial clogs. My nozzle was clogging regularly and I decided to test a dust scrubber, and I have not had another clog for a very long time, so I thought I would make this design public in case someone else can benefit.

    Materials needed
    8x 6x3 Neodynium Magnets Any cheap, sponge-like material (I cut up part of a scotchbrite kitchen sponge) 2x Scrubby.stl Note: I tested the tolerances in ABS. Due to shrinkage, other filament may make a slightly larger hole. Assembly
    Assembly is quite simple; press fit or super glue the magnets into each hole, carefully paying attention to polarity. Cut up your chosen spongy material and fit it into each scrubby half. Place your scrubby halves together, sandwiching the filament between the halves. You want enough sponge to get a nice drag on the filament to make sure it cleans it as best as possible. I put mine right against the bowden retainer, shown in the picture above.

    Notes
    I included the solidworks part file and the step file in case anyone wants to modify. Make sure to clean the dust it filters off somewhat regularly. It pulls a suprising amount off. Please message me on discord if you have any questions. Happy clog-free printing!

    148 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  11. The Cephalopods Limb

    Just another DIN Rail bracket for BTT Octopus board
    This is an alternative DIN Rail bracket for Bigtreetech Octopus boards (Normal and Pro-HV), posted this way back in Voron Discord just never uploaded it to VoronUser Mods
    Use either 2 of the old style Voron 2.4(r1) r1_pcb_din_clips. or 2of the new trident/r2 ones r2_pcb_din_clips.
    Octopus board can be secured to those bracket with M3 screw, without nuts, just gently screw them in as its ah just plastic fitting!


    I've also made ah simple Version of the bracket, initially even before the octopus limbs Version, as there where no bracketavailable as i got my Octopus board...
    There are also the SVG Files of the Octopus Logo i created, from what i used to extrude the Bracket in Fusion360

    STL:
    Octopus limb bracket STL
    Simple bracket STL

    14 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  12. V2.4 Trident Spool Holders

    Why?
    If you are building Voron 300mm2 or 350mm2, V2.4 or Trident, you will soon discover you need a larger/deeper desk to accomodate your new machine, also if you have 5.5 or larger display mod you will end up with the printer being backed up against the wall and not enough space for the spool holder. After encountering the problem i've started messing with different designns that would provide stable, easily accessible place for the filament spool while keeping the filament path as short as possible.
    Print
    All parts are printed without supports. Recommended material is ABS/ASA but PETG or even PLA can be used as well. Frame extrusions get hot during long prints under enclosure so be carefull with PLA. Recommended perimeter count is 4 and 5 top/bottom layers with infil from 20% . All parts in STL already have correct orientation, just import and print.
    STL File naming:
    Classic__part_name.stl - Parts for Classic Voron spool holder design BB__part_name.stl - Ball Bearing Version parts Versions:
    1. Ball Bearing Version
    2. Classic Voron type spool holder
    Ball Bearing Version
    This version uses 100mm x 8mm rod for spool core mounting. Provides very smooth motion and virtually no resitatnce to the spool motion. The downside of this design is that the spool can free sping and cause the filament to jump off the spool and entangle.Since my printer is very close to the wall the wall itself servers as a resistance to the filament and prevents any free spinning and filament slipping off the spool.
    Ball Bearing version - BOM
    S-F-608-ZZ Bearings 1x 10mm x 8mm steel rod with cut internal M4 threads on both ends (easy to find on any mechatronics shop and easy to DIY) 10 M5x10 BHCS 4x M5x16 BHCS 4x M5 Hex Nut


    Classic Voron type spool holder
    This version uses classic Voron spool holder design adopted to fit the spool holder arm. This design is recommended as it greatly reduces/eliminates the risk of free spinning of the spool and filament slipping over the spool. This version is also simpler/easier and cheaper to make.
    Ball Bearing version - BOM
    8 M5x10 BHCS 4x M5x16 BHCS 5x M5 Hex Nut 1x M5x30 BHCS 2x 105mm PTFE (4mm OD)


    986 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  13. PITFT50 45 Degree Mount

    BTT PITFT50 45-degree Mount

    This mod is an alternative frame mount for alanho's PITFT50 screen mount. They suggest using the frame mount from sttts, which puts the screen at a 30-degree angle. I found that with the shorter guitar amplifier feet on the Trident and 2.4r2, the 30-degree mount makes the screen assembly too tall to fit under the frame. This mod replaces the 30-degree frame mount with a 45-degree mount, which provides plenty of clearance.
    This design was created from scratch, but was heavily inspired by other mods:
    roboticator24 - 4-inch Touchscreen Mount jeoje - 4.3-inch Touchscreen Mount sttts - Waveshare 5.5inch HDMI AMOLED Mount This was tested with a BTT PITFT50 v2, but will likely also work with sttts's 5.5-inch Waveshare mount, since the hole pattern is the same.
    Bill of Materials
    6x M3x8 SHCS 2x M3 T-Nuts alanho's PITFT50 mount Assembly Instructions
    Assemble the screen mount Use 4x M3x8 SHCS to attach the frame mount to the screen mount Insert 2x M3 T-nuts into the bottom of the frame Thread 2x M3x8 SHCS into the T-nuts to attach the mount to the frame Printing
    I printed with standard Voron settings, but this would probably be fine with fewer walls and less infill. I found this part very prone to warping, so you may want to use a brim or ears.

    392 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  14. Trident Bed Fans

    Trident Bed Fans

    Andrew Ellis's Bed Fans, adapted to mount on a Trident. See his mod for some useful macros and more information.
    Bill of Materials (per fan):
    1x 5015 Blower Fan 2x M3x20 SHCS 1x M3x8 SHCS 2x M3 Threaded Insert Install Instructions (per fan)
    Note: Install the printed mount onto the extrusion before attaching the fan. The mounting screw will be inaccessible once the fan is attached.
    Heat-set the threaded inserts into the holes in the L-shaped section Add one M3 T-nut to the rear-facing slot of the bed extrusion Use 1 M3x8 SHCS to attach the printed mount to T-nut, aligning the bump in the printed part with the slot on the extrusion. Pass 2 M3x20 SHCS through the fan mounting holes and screw into the threaded inserts to attach the fan to the printed mount

    272 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  15. MKS Mosfet Mount

    MKS Mosfet Mount

    A mount for a BIQU116-A2 MKS Mosfet based on the Trident Raspberry Pi mount. Use an extra pcb_din_clip_v2 to fix it to the DIN rail.

    45 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  16. SW Wall Plate

    Switchwire Wall Plate
    This mod is for pure aesthetics. A Voron Switchwire logo plate to install on the back wall of your printer's enclosure.
    (Or optionally on the front grill if no enclosure - but only if you're not already using the LCD mount...)

    Note: Overall size is about 225x50 (about 10mm thick)
    BOM
    (4) M3x8mm BHCS (4) M3xD5.0xH4.0 heat-set inserts VHB tape
    Directions
    Install inserts in the WITCHWIRE_base
    Use backplate_and_drillguide to drill holes in your back panel
    Use thin strips of vhb tape to affix the badges into respective recesses on the base (no need to affix base to backplate)
    Note: badge tolerances are tight - you might need to sand a bit off the edges of the badges.

    Attach to back panel with (4) M3x8 screws (Optional: To use on front grill, affix all parts together using vhb tape, and similarly affix the optional nolcd_grill_mount to the center top of the backplate.)
    CAD
    OpenSCAD sources are included (it's all I know). They are sparsely commented - make modifications as you wish.

    Tip: If you resize the badges, use hundredths of a mm to adjust.

    63 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    2 comments

    Updated

  17. LCD Case Mod

    LCD Case Mod
    I have made some changes/improvements to the Mini12864 LCD case as follows:
    I found the hot melt inserts to be difficult to align straight, on both the rear and front case due to the geometry and space constraints. I have therefore removed them and resized the holes accordingly. For the case rear, I have added M3 threads to the 4 fixing holes, these should print fine with standard Voron printing settings. I have added a lip around the screen cutout to better hide the PCB board behind it. This is simply for aesthetic reasons. I have added an E-stop button cover, taking inspiration from both the previous Voron LCD cover as well as the Prusa i3 design. This allows for both easier prodding of the E-stop button as well as improving the aesthetic of the case (in my opinion). Standard vs. modded design comparison
    Please see below the changes between the standard/stock LCD case in the first image, and my modded design in the second.
     

    Installed Case Mod
     
    Installed and working well 🙂
     

    78 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  18. DooMini

    DooMini

     
    This is Voron 0.1 mod that improves the insulation of the printer by using double glazed panels and minimal hardware. The New planes help you print full bed size ABS without ever worrying about warping. I get almost 60c chamber temperature with DooMini. (The temperatures are measured at the base of the chamber which is usually the coldest area). Almost forgot ... it looks way Cooler 😛 
    For All STL file as we as manual and instructions visit https://github.com/TigranDesigner/Voron-Mods/tree/main/DooMini or download directly here.
     

     


    1,713 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    8 comments

    Updated

  19. Z Belt Covers with Wire Management - hide wires from extrusion groove to base

    Two part wire duct that replaces the Z belt covers and directs the wires away from the belts under the deck plate. No need to modify the original deck plate. For easy use, pass wires before assembling with CA glue
    the upper duct has print support integrated in the part

     

    306 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  20. Misumi Cable Clip

    Misumi Cable Clip
    Credits:
    Eddie from the Voron-Team (From his awesome Misumi Led Clips) Printing:
    Default Voron settings, correct orientation, no supports Bom:
    Nothing Description:
    It's a stupid Clip to hide your cables stiff and secure inside that extrusion cutout. You can scale this in Z-Size to whatever you want. By default it's 8mm, as i find it the perfect size. Please don't even try to print only one of this, it's tiny, you need layer-time xD Pictures:
     

    919 downloads

       (4 reviews)

    1 comment

    Updated

  21. Klicky Probe for v2.4, v1.8, Trident, and Legacy

    Microswitch probe with magnetic attachment, primarily aimed at CoreXY 3d printers with a focus on the Voron printers, should work on other printers with the variable mount.
    The objectives for this project are:
    drop in replacement for Omron TL-Q5MC2 or PL-08N2 (you don't need to replace the toolhead) easier and faster to build than similar probe types does not require soldering fixed probe dock mount (for the printers that are suported), less variables to adjust be able to detect all the print surfaces be as close to the hotend tip as possible highly repeatable and accurate probes less temperature variations no melting of its parts cheap to build It can also be used with the new automatic Z calibration klipper plugin to effectively calculate the Z offset from the probe and from the Z endstop.
    The inspiration for the Klicky Probe comes from the Annex magprobe and the Euclid probe, it uses some concepts from each of the projects.

     
    There is no need for supports, recommended settings are 4 perimeters/top/bottom, 13% infill.
    The probe dock is mounted on the gantry, allowing it to be used as a Z endstop if desired (I use it that way).
    There are three gantry extrusion mounts possible:
    one fixed to be used on the Voron V2.4 or V1.8 AB with MGN12 or MGN9
    - one that has some variance for other toolheads

    - one fixed sidemount dock to allow a purge/scrub bucket on the left side of the bed

    The fixed gantry extrusion mounts have been confirmed to work on the Voron V2.4 and V1.8
    The normal magnet installation is that the two magnets that attach to the microswitch are installed with the same polarity, the 3rd magnet should have the inverse polarity. There is however the possibility that the magnets will demagnetize over time due to the alternating magnetic fields thay may result in a slow but sure demagnetization of the magnets, the magnets are so strong that may take a long time to show the effects of demagnetization YMMV.
    No soldering is necessary, the probe microswitch connectors are also press-fit on the magnets.





     
    The AB mount wires are also connected with pressure from the magnets, you can use the probe magnets as a template to insert the AB mount magnets, it is easier that way to don't insert the magnets the wrong way.





     
    You will not lose Y travel on any configuration in the tests that were done.
    It is also recommended to glue the magnets in place, superglue is good.
    You will need to add macros to Klipper to be able to dock and undock the probe as necessary to do the Endstop (if necessary) and Quad Gantry Level, it is in the Klipper Macro directory.

    Probe BOM:
    1x microswitch (the omron D2F-5 or D2F-5L (removing the lever) is recommended) 2x M2x10 self tapping 4x 6x3 magnets AB mount BOM:
    3x 6x3 magnets Probe Dock:
    1x 6x3 magnets 2x M3x20 Fixed Dock mount:
    2x M3 threaded insert M3x5x4 2x M5x10 2x M5 t-nut or equivalent or
    variable Dock mount:
    10x M3 threaded insert M3x5x4 8x M3x8 2x M5x10 2x M5 t-nut or equivalent If you would like to check a possibly more uptodate repository, check here
    The macro is based on a version provided by the user garrettwp on Discord, many thanks to him. I have tweaked it a lot. It is also originally based on the great Annex magnet dockable probe macros "#Originally developed by Mental, modified for better use on K-series printers by RyanG and Trails" and can be found here
    Would also like to thank the Voron discord community and VoronDesign for all the work that was and still is being made to maintain the Voron ecosystem.
    The probe accuracy output is something like this: probe accuracy results: maximum 6.430000, minimum 6.426250, range 0.003750, average 6.428750, median 6.428750, standard deviation 0.000791
    There is now an arrow on the probe telling you where should the switch pole be to have the correct offset. The probe offsets are:
    z_offset = 6.42 x_offset: 0 y_offset: 19.75 Assembled Klicky Probe

    Dock and undock video
    It is working very well, if you decide to use it, give me feedback, either here, or on discord, my discord user is JosAr#0517.
    By standing on the shoulders of giants, let's see if we can see further.

    6,632 downloads

       (1 review)

    0 comments

    Updated

  22. Klicky Probe for v0 Printers

    This is an intermediate/advanced configuration, it's recommended to first build your Voron to the stock configuration
    That way, you will be better familiarized with the concepts that are presented here and will have a much more enjoyable experience.
    With an integrated mount, the bed can be fully used during printing, the bed only cannot be probed (at most) 6mm on the left side, this is due to the design of the probe, that extends below the nozzle.
    There are currently two other probes available to use on the V0.1, Slideswipe and Sideswipe.

    Above all, have fun and be excellent to one another, the instructions on how to install and setup the klicky probe for  Vorondesign V0(.1) can be found [here](https://github.com/jlas1/Klicky-Probe/tree/main/Printers/Voron/v0), or below on this download
    For me, and for a lot of users, it is working very well, if you decide to use it, give me feedback, either here, or on discord, my discord user is JosAr#0517.
    By standing on the shoulders of giants, let's see if we can see further.

     
    Mounting options
    Probe dock mount
    The probe dock is mounted to the front right extrusion, where it minimizes the chance of being removed inadvertently during printing, like this:

    There are several mounting options, depending on your setup:
    It can be frustrating on the v0 to add extra m3 nuts on the 1515 extrusion after the assembly is complete, so there are several screwless probe dock options to avoid that scenario.
    Screwless variable Fixed Fixed extrabeef Top screws Side screws recommended for most setups, does not require extra m3 nuts on the extrusion (v0.0/1) fixed position, does not require extra m3 nuts on the extrusion (v0.1) fixed, fits X carriages that are 2mm thicker, does not require extra m3 nuts on the extrusion(v0.1) fixed, requires 2 extra m3 nuts on the top extrusion (v0.1) fixed, requires 2 extra m3 nuts on the front extrusion (v0.1) There are also some more mounting options on Usermods, like a servo powered dock. Check it out
    Probe toolhead mount
    The v0 toolhead was not designed to use a probe, so there is no inbuilt location to add one, so i designed two options for the v0.1 variant and one for the original v0.
    Front cowling mount (v0.1)
    You can install a mount the attaches to the front of the toolhead cowling, it will need 2/3mm of X space on the front right of the bed to avoid picking the probe up by accident, it is very easy to install, it's ideal to test the concept of probing on the v0.1
       
    You will require 2x M3 x 40mm (BHSC preferably) that are not on the V0(.1) BOM, there is an included wire path with zip tie support, to keep your printer looking good.
    Integrated cowling (v0.1)
    You can replace the cowling with a version that has a cutout to allow the klicky mount to attach, it has no impact on the cooling performance of the probe, it also includes a wire path to the back of the miniAB.
       
    This method allow mounting of different probes on the V0.1, currently only klicky uses this mount, hopefully that can change in the future.
    It also allows to pick up the probe at X121, effectively outside the bed, incurring in a no print space lost.
    Fan duct mount (v0.0)
    On the V0.0, you do not need to reprint the entire cowlink, you only need to replace the right fan duct with a version that has a mount for klicky, it has no impact on the cooling performance of the probe, it also includes a wire path to the back of the miniAB.
    This version has seen little tests because of the lack of a sufficient number of v0.0 to test on.
    If you end up using this version, please tell me at what X do you dock and attach the probe.
    It is also necessary to use the Screwless variable dock mount
    Bill of Materials (BOM)
    Tools:
    1.5mm Drill (optional) Multimeter to check for Continuity Super Glue (optional) Soldering Iron Probe:
    1x microswitch (the omron D2F-5 or D2F-5L (removing the lever is required), other also work with reduced accuracy or repeatability (mostly anecdotal evidence, needs a proper sudy) 2x M2x10 mm self tapping 10cm of 22AWG cable (to wire the magnets to the switch) 5x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets (N35 magnets work) Probe mount:
    Front cowling mount (v0.1) Integrated cowling mount (v0.1) Fan duct mount (v0.0) 4x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets (N35 magnets work) 4x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets (N35 magnets work) 4x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets (N35 magnets work) 2x 20cm 22AWG cable (to connect the Klicky Probe to the umbilical termination point) 2x 20cm 22AWG cable (to connect the Klicky Probe to the umbilical termination point) 2x 20cm 22AWG cable (to connect the Klicky Probe to the umbilical termination point) two wires to connect the controller to the extruder motor vicinity two wires to connect the controller to the extruder motor vicinity two wires to connect the controller to the extruder motor vicinity 2x M3 x 40mm BHSC 1x M3x6 mm BHSC Screw 1x M3x6 mm BHSC Screw   1x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx4 mm 2x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx4 mm Probe dock:
    1x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets (N35 magnets work) 2x M3x16 mm Probe dock mounts:
    Screwless variable (v0.0/1) Fixed (v0.1) Fixed extrabeef (v0.1) Top screws (v0.1) Side screws (v0.1) 2x m3 nut 2x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx4 mm 2x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx4 mm 2x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx4 mm 2x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx4 mm       2x m3x8 mm 2x m3x8 mm Sourcing
    To get the best experience, please consider purchasing from the trusted list of suppliers bellow.
    trusted suppliers list
    Parts location
    The probe STL's are located here.
    The printer specific STL's are located here.
    The CAD with all the parts are here.
    What to print
    Probe
    2x KlickyProbe_Long_v2.stl (keeping a spare is always a good idea) The KlickyProbe_v2.stl is also compatible, but has a different Y offset and cannot probe all the bed.
    Helpers to pressfit the probe magnet
    Probe_magnet_pressfit_helper.stl
    Probe_magnet_holder.stl
    Longer_probe_pressfit_helper.stl
    Probe mount
    Front cowling mount (v0.1) Integrated cowling mount (v0.1) Fan duct mount (v0.0) Front_cowling_mount.stl MiniAB_Dragon_Cowling_wKlicky.stl V0_Fan_duct_wKlicky.stl v0.1_integrated_mount.stl v0.1_integrated_mount.stl v0_integrated_mount.stl There are also other integrated cowlings, check the [STL] folder, namely, the Serpa_Mini_Dragon_Cowling_wKlicky.stl from Kyrios and the LGX Lite cowling from Bondtech.
    Probe dock
    Probe_Dock_v2.stl Probe dock mounts
    Screwless variable (v0.0/1) Fixed (v0.1) Fixed extrabeef (v0.1) Top screws (v0.1) Side screws (v0.1) DockMount_variable.stl DockMount_fixed.stl DockMount_extrabeef.stl DockMount_TopScrews.stl DockMount_SideScrews.stl Printing instructions
    Recommended printing settings:
    initial layer height:0,24 layer height: 0.2mm bottom/top/perimeters: 4 infill: more than 23% infill type: Cubic Thin walls: On It was tested and printed with ABS, might work on other materials, if you try, let me know how it worked out.
    Typical V0.1 components

    (the images with the green background were provided by user SunB#1489 and are being used with permission).
    Assembly
    Step 1 - Dock mount and Probe Dock assembly
    In this examples, the Fixed dock will be used.
     2x M3 threaded insert M3x5 mmx 4 mm  1x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets  2x M3x16 mm  Super Glue Here we will use the Fixed dock as an example, the other docks are very similar.
    Install your heat set threaded inserts like you did within your Voron build.

    Install the magnet in the Probe dock, make sure that the magnet is fully inserted, it's top should be below the plastic.
    Screw the dock onto the Dock mount with the two M3x16mm screws.
    Secure the magnet with a dab of super glue (not a lot, just a drop).

    Mount the Probe Dock to the front right extrusion, snap first on the front extrusion, then on the top one (do this after assembling the probe).

    Step 2: Probe Assembly
    For the probe assembly you need the following parts:
     1x microswitch  2x M2x10 mm self tapping  5x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets  10cm of 22AWG cable  1.5mm Drill (optional)  Multimeter to check for Continuity  Super Glue
    Maybe you need to clear the holes for the microswitch, a 1.5mm drill bit should work fine.
    Install the microswitch so that the arrow on the probe body is pointing to the little switch.
    The best way to install the back magnet is to attach a magnet to the probe dock and slide the probe on the dock to insert some distance and the insert he remaining with a tool, it should be slightly below the plastic.

    Then take your self tapping screws and screw the microswitch in place, you should also now solder the wires to the outside pins of the switch, that way making this a Normally Connected probe.

    You should place the wires cover outside the ducts to the magnets and install them in the space below the magnets, more like the right wire is on the image below.

    You want to install the magnets in the way that the ones which are connected to the microswitch, have the same polarity.
    Before placing the switch magnets, use some super glue on the holes (not a lot, just a drop), avoid the wires and the top of the magnets.
    The 3rd magnets (there are two) should have the inverse polarity, wait until the system is complete and assembled before gluing the magnets, they might need adjustment to ensure a good fit on the mount.
    You can use the included pressfit helpers to help in securing the probe when you are inserting the magnets.

    There is no need for soldering, the probe microswitch connectors are press-fit on the magnets, they should remain with the top above the probe plastic.

    As the last step of the probe assembly check if you have continuity between two magnets that connect to the switch.
    If you have a normally closed switch (as you should), then you should have a current flow, so continuity is established. When you press the switch you should lose continuity. When you have a normally open switch then the behavior is the other way around.
    Step 3: Probe mount Assembly
    In this example, the Front cowling mount will be used.
    For the Front cowling mount assembly you need the following parts
     4x 6 mm x 3 mm magnets  2 x 20cm 22AWG cable to connect the Klicky Probe to the Mircofit Terminal  two wires to connect the controller to the extruder motor vicinity  some microfit or JST hardware  2x M3 x 40mm BHSC  Multimeter to check for Continuity  Super Glue The probe mount wires are also connected with pressure from the magnets, you can use the probe magnets as a template to insert the probe mount magnets, it is easier that way, so that the magnets are not inserted the wrong way.
    again, before placing the wire magnets, use some super glue on the holes (not a lot, just a drop), avoid the wires and the top of the magnets.
    The 3rd magnets (there are two) should have the inverse polarity, exacly like on the probe.
    Wait until the system is complete and assembled before gluing the 3rd magnets, they might need adjustment to ensure a good fit on the probe.
     
    (The mount has since been improved a bit to avoid cracking)
    After everything is assembled let's check again for continuity, this time joining the ends of the cable and testing connectivity on the two wire magnets that have a cable.
    Step 4: Probe Mount installation and wiring
    For the installation you need the following parts:
     2x M3x40 mm BHSC Screws
    Route the probe mount cables to near the end of the V0 umbilical, install a male terminal in there.
    Before going further, please turn off the printer, the SKR boards are very picky with short circuits.
    Connect a female terminal to the wires that will run in the umbilical from the toolhead to the controller.

    Connect the wires from the Klicky Probe to the Zprobe port, on GND and PC14 bin (I reused the LDO kit connector)
    When testing the docking and attachment of the probe, make sure that the back magnet of the probe and the dock magnet do not touch, if they do, it will make attaching the probe much harder.
    Step 5: klipper configuration
    Unfortunately, I do not know how to document RRF probe configuration, so here is only Klipper configurations.
    As of right now, klipper and RRF have no inbuilt support for a removable probe, fortunately, it does support very robust macro programming, so you will need to add macros to be able to dock and attach the probe as necessary, as well as supporting the rest of the functions that require the usage of a probe.
    The macros and instructions on how to configure are located on the Macro directory, you need to check that before continuing on the build, there are also some RRF scripts that work for the Voron V2.4.
    For the Voron v0, these are the recommended configuration on the klicky-variables.cfg:
    variable_verbose: True # Enable verbose output variable_travel_speed: 100 # how fast all other travel moves will be performed when running these macros variable_dock_speed: 50 # how fast should the toolhead move when docking the probe for the final movement variable_release_speed: 55 # how fast should the toolhead move to release the hold of the magnets after docking variable_z_drop_speed: 20 # how fast the z will lower when moving to the z location to clear the probe variable_safe_z: 25 # Minimum Z for attach/dock and homing functions # if true it will move the bed away from the nozzle when Z is not homed variable_enable_z_hop: True # True v0 #Dock move Variable_dockmove_x: 0 # Final toolhead movement to release Variable_dockmove_y: 40 # the probe on the dock Variable_dockmove_z: 0 # (can be negative) #Attach move Variable_attachmove_x: 30 # Final toolhead movement to Dock Variable_attachmove_y: 0 # the probe on the dock Variable_attachmove_z: 0 # (can be negative) variable_max_bed_x: 120 # maximum Bed size avoids doing a probe_accuracy outside the bed variable_max_bed_y: 120 # maximum Bed size avoids doing a probe_accuracy outside the bed  
    The sections below should be added to klicky-specific.cfg, that way, it will be loaded on klipper via a klicky-probe.cfg include.
    If you would like to use a bed mesh, this is the recommended settings:
    [bed_mesh] mesh_min: 15,15 mesh_max: 105,105 speed: 100 horizontal_move_z: 20 probe_count: 3,3 #if you would like more detail, use 5,5 here relative_reference_index: 4 #if you use 5,5 above, place 12 here move_check_distance: 3 algorithm: lagrange fade_start: 1 fade_end: 10 fade_target: 0 split_delta_z: 0.0125 mesh_pps: 2,2  
    Regarding the Screws Tilt Adjust (Klipper probes the three screws positions and recommends the number of turns to level the bed), you can use this configuration as a reference, the probe should be over the screws when you do send the nozzle to the respective coordinate:
    [screws_tilt_adjust] screw1: 100,115 #For Long probe screw1_name: back right screw2: 0,115 #For Long probe screw2_name: back left screw3: 60,5 #For Long probe screw3_name: front screw horizontal_move_z: 20 speed: 100 screw_thread: CW-M3  
    You should test this and adjust accordingly.
    This is probe configuration is with the default Voron v0.1 SKR mini E3 v2 configuration, with the probe connected to the PC14 pin, please update it to your specific configuration:
    [probe] #with Long Klicky Probe pin: ^PC14 x_offset: 8 #(9.5 with front cowling) y_offset: 0 z_offset: 14.5 speed: 7 lift_speed: 7 samples: 3 samples_result: median sample_retract_dist: 2 samples_tolerance: 0.01 samples_tolerance_retries: 10  
    I recommend a probing speed between 5mm/s and 10mm/s, you may experiment to see what is the better speed for your machine. Please confirm that if you are not using a endstop pin, that the pull-up is enable by using the ^ sign, normally the endstop pins have a hardware solution that does not require this configuration. Depending on your switch you may need to add a ! to invert that pin (normally open vs. normally closed).
    Z endstop and Probe configuration
    If you want to use the Klicky Probe as your Z endstop, you need to change the endstop_pin: under the [stepper_z] section to probe:z_virtual_endstop.
    Just comment out the old one and add a new line endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop.
    You will need to update the Z probing variables, set the two variables below to 0, it will probe the middle of the bed.
    variable_z_endstop_x: 0 variable_z_endstop_y: 0  
    Assembled Klicky Probe

    Step 6: klipper Dock/Undock configuration
    X max position adjustment
    Even in the stock X endstop with a lever, you normally can add a extra mm of X travel due to the lever extra trigger distance:
    [stepper_x] position_endstop: 120 position_max: 121 Adjust Probe Pickup Position
    One of the last things we need to do is to adjust the probe pickup position.
    Make sure that the x and y axis are homed and the probe is manually attached to mount.
    Now manually (with gcode commands) move the toolhead to the probe dock and move it so far to the back that the probe docks, note the Y-Position.
    Next, again manually, move the toolhead parallel to the probe dock until the probe it is perfectly aligned with the mount, note the X.Position.
    Open your klicky-variables.cfg and find the #dock location section and edit the following two line
    variable_docklocation_x: variable_docklocation_y: Test now with the ATTACH_PROBE and DOCK_PROBE if it docks and is removed correctly, some common points that can give problems are:
    the dock magnet is touching the back probe magnet, they cannot touch, push them further in the probe is hitting the dock arms, please move the toolhead more to the side where the probe does not hit, by 1mm at a time, until it works the probe is falling after being release, the dock is too far away, you can insert one or several 1mm spacer to move the dock and solve this WARNING when you are doing PROBE_ACCURACY, make sure that the probe is above the bed, the PROBE_ACCURACY macro does not move the toolhead in X or Y.
    Congratulations, your done :).
    Firsts tests
    Before starting to test klicky, and from past mistakes, please remove your PEI sheet (the probe works on the magnetic sheet) and if possible, change your printer maximum speed, acceleration and Z current, on klipper with TMC steppers, you can do this:
    SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_z CURRENT=0.2 SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT ACCEL=1000 SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT VELOCITY=50 Enjoy your Klicky Probe!
    Dock and undock video
     
    It is working very well, if you decide to use it, give me feedback, either here, or on discord, my discord user is JosAr#0517.
    By standing on the shoulders of giants, lets see if we can see further.
     
     

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  23. Magnetic Grill Cover

    Magnetic Exhaust Grill Cover
    Depending on my printer location and / or cooling needs, I sometimes want the exhaust vent shut off to just rely on recirculated filtering with a nevermore or similar. This mod replaces the default exhaust grill with one featuring magnets and a captive path for the bowden tube. There is then a magnetic cover that will fit around the bowden and seal the grill. It's intended to be installed with the exhaust as normal, but should also be able to attach without by using a couple of M3 nuts and the default [a]_exhaust_filter_mount_x2.stl mounts.

    BOM
    8x 6x3mm round magnets (Voron BOM spec) 50cm foam tape 1mm thick, 5mm wide. It was designed for this tape but you can probably get away with varying both thickness and width depending on magnet strength, or even leaving it out if your print is flat enough to seal and you don't mind magnets going clack against each other. 2x M3 Nuts (optional) Installation
    Insert magnets into outer four pockets on each piece. They should be push fit, but a dab of superglue wouldn't hurt. Test fit the bowden tube on the middle grill hole. The part is designed to be particularly tight around the tube, and ideally you'd clear the hole with a 4mm bit to get it nice and snug to the tube. Stick the foam tape around the outside rim of the cover. It doesn't matter if you do this in multiple pieces (as there are some awkward turns). Just try to get it flat and continuous to aid the seal. Install exhaust grill as normal / using M3 nuts Feed the bowden tube through the centre hole
    Notes
    As previously mentioned, the bowden hole is intended to be tight to the tube. You can either drill it for perfection, or adjust the size in the CAD using parameters in Fusion. If you have other magnets then you can also tweak the parameters in Fusion for these (to an extent). If you don't want to lose the cover, you can hang it from the bottom pair of magnets. You lose a bit of ventilation doing so, but it's one less bit of clutter. Thanks
    Many thanks to Lanman1 for being a guinea pig for this and giving feedback!

    136 downloads

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  24. Side Panels

    Side panels with integrated hinge.
    Carefully drill the 1mm hole to 2.5mm and cut an M3 thread into it
    Required material:
    2x M3x30 BHCS
    1x 30x30x10 5V Fan for Raspberry Pi cooling
    1x https://www.amazon.com/ZHSMS-Universal-Replacement-Motorcycle-Waterproof/dp/B08L33RFHY/
    1x https://www.amazon.com/Angled-USB3-0-Extension-Industrial-Computer/dp/B07LBFPG16/

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  25. ESP32 DIN Rail Bracket

    This is a DIN rail bracket for an ESP32 bought from AZ-Delivery via Amazon
    May also fit for other ESP32 dev boards, but I have not tested. The spacing for the bores is: 23mm x 51mm
    Please use the generic PCB DIN Clip and mount these on top.

    31 downloads

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