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About Me

Voron Serial #1

Voron Serial #2

Voron Serial #3

  1. Version 1.0.0


    This is a hybrid of two excellent hinge mods that I very haphazardly slicer-spliced together. I have zero CAD skill, all credit for the design of the originals goes to their respective owners. I'm just a lazy dude that wanted a little bit of each of these hinge designs for my V0, and I couldn't find it online. So I took these two great ideas and frankenstein'd them together in superslicer to make this ugly abomination that I find quite useful and painfully easy to assemble. It's Alexander T. Moss's brilliant clamping hinge idea combined with this amazing removable doors mod by ElPoPo. I literally just swapped the hinge attachment points of either part and merged them in my slicer before re-exporting. I did the same to the hinge mounts, but with the slot-in tabs for a 1515 extrusion. The only reason I even bothered to post this is for the odd chance that someone is less motivated than myself and also looking for something similar. Alas, this is now the path of least resistence. I recommend using double-sided VHB tape on the smaller back half of the clamps to get a more reliable grip on your panel. If you don't add that, you'll spend more time fussing with it to stay put than you will care to, I learned this from personal experience. The "click and print" files are pre-arranged build plates of the parts you need. The v0 version has all 6 parts layed out so they can fit on a 120mm v0 build plate. The V2.4/Trident version has the minimum 12 parts layed out and pre-mirrored for a left and right door on a larger printer. They should all fit on a 180mm buildplate if you want to DIY-print these parts the hard way: you will need 2x V0 door mounts and hinge assemblies for the V0 you will need 4x door hinge mounts for the 2020 extrusion. If you use ElPoPo's original 2020 door mounts (which I have included here purely for convenience) then these spliced clamp hinges will also work on the trident or V2.4, the front part of the hinge will need to be mirrored to mount the doors on the left side of a larger printer. you'll need at least 2x hinges for each door. https://mods.vorondesign.com/detail/uS9PdDxZtFj4MWLRzNXUyA https://mods.vorondesign.com/detail/WqhhKrXksAZ4omhHS1RY4Q
  2. Version 1.0.0


    This is a flip down TFT50 screen mount for the Voron V0.1. It's still a work in progress but it works and allows the screen to fold down so the door can be opened.
  3. Version 2022.05.09


    Horseshoe Spool Holder This is a method to mount the filament spool inside the enclosure of a Voron Trident 3d printer, or outside a V0, V1 or V2 printer. It works with 200mm, 1kg spools only. For mounting internally in the Trident, the ptfe tube is installed as shown: up through the gap in the side of the rear extrusion. Alternately you could drill a 4mm hole though the B stepper mount top and bottom parts. To install the spool: Feed the filament through the ptfe first, then align the spool into the front and top bearing rings, and pull forward to spring the frame and drop into the rear bearing ring. BOM: 3 608 bearings (any type) 2 M5-8mm (pan/socket) head bolts and 2 M5-Tnuts for 2020 extrusion only OR 4 M3-8mm (pan/socket) head bolts and 4 M3-Tnuts for 1515 extrusion 3 - M3-8mm bolts (pan/socket) Internal Version for Trident only Print PlasticBolt(x3) and use a m3-8mm PH or SH bolt to secure the pin in place. External version for V0, V1, V2 Print ShortPlasticBolt(3x) and use a m3-8mm PH or SH bolt to secure the pin in place. Please provide feedback for issues/suggestions to #Logan2225 on VoronDesign Discord. Thanks!
  4. Version 2021.12.09


    MiniAB_FanSaver A 3D-printable baffle to prevent Voron V0.1 Mini Afterburner blower fans from overheating Is your Mini Afterburner toolhead struggling to keep up with the part cooling you request? Are you running into weird overheating artifacts despite setting absurdly high part cooling speeds? Have you noticed your blower fans slowing down or audibly changing in pitch over the course of a print? You've come to the right place! There is an issue that has been cropping up in some Voron V0.1 printers where the combination of high chamber temperature and radiant heat from the hotend can cause the PWM smoothing chips inside your 3010 blower fans to overheat and, as a result, can cause the fans to slow down and speed up intermittently (sometimes even coming to a full stop). In particular, the GDSTime 3010 blower fan included in the LDO V0.1 kit and similar rebranded units have a max operating temperature between 60C-70C, which can easily be exceeded by a fully heatsoaked V0.1 at ABS printing temperatures. While there are a number of ways to overcome this issue, such as mini-heatsink installation, reflective tape, insulation, or high-temp fans, every other fix I came across was either an incomplete solution or required specialty parts / fabrication that were difficult to source or cumbersome to prepare. The goal of this project was to make an all-in-one heat-deflecting solution that could be printed on any ABS-capable printer and installed without disassembly of your Mini Afterburner, while still requiring no additional materials or reprints / replacements of existing parts. The result is the MiniAB FanSaver: a combination air dam and heat barrier that keeps your blower fans cool with minimal time and material investment. The print itself should only take around 20-25 minutes at moderate printing speeds and consumes approximately 3g of material. The installation is fairly straightforward and only requires cutting your two cable management zipties on the sides of the toolhead to slip the FanSaver in underneath. The installation process can be made easier by removing the toolhead from the X-carriage so you don't have to work upside-down inside your printer, but it will fit comfortably without doing so. Before starting with this modification, it is recommended to have two new zipties, a pair of flush cutters / wire cutters, a small hex key or other skinny blunt object for moving the wires around inside the toolhead, and a dental pick, needle, or similar pointy tool for removing your blower fan stickers. The installation process is as follows: Your hotend should be COLD for this process! Please don't try this at 245C and burn yourself. I recommend moving your toolhead to 60,0, dropping your build plate down 75-100mm, and then turning off and unplugging your machine for safety. Depending on the specific geometry of your hotend and associated silicone sock, you may have an easier time installing if you remove the silicone sock first and re-attach it after the FanSaver is in place. (Optional) Clip all toolhead zipties, remove strain relief & stepper screws, unscrew all 5 toolhead mounting bolts, and lay toolhead face down on print surface. Using a dental pick, needle, X-acto knife, or other pointy tool, get under the edge of the stickers on the backs of your two blower fans and peel the stickers off completely. These insulate the PWM chip from the airflow we're about to provide it, but still let through enough radiant heat that they're not providing any substantial protection in their default state. Be careful not to stab into the wiring cavities that the sticker covers. Clip left and right cable management zip ties and pull heater and thermistor wires toward the back of the toolhead shroud. Begin installation of FanSaver with the flat base facing down (same orientation relative to toolhead as it was printed). The semicircular scoops should be facing toward the front of the shroud / hotend fan and the rear rectangular crossbar with external tabs should face the rear of the shroud. Press your heater and thermistor wires close to the hotend so they're between the two vertical FanSaver panels (this may require more or less wrangling with your hex key or other skinny blunt tool depending on the specific heater and thermistor you have installed and the relative thickness / stiffness of their wires). Ride the rear crossbar's external tabs on the flat backs of the shroud like rails and slide the FanSaver into the shroud while guiding the heater and thermistor wires into the cable management channels. Once you hit the "ceiling" of the shroud with the pointy tops of the rear columns, check for left/right alignment and then gently press the front crossbar upward and forward to lock the FanSaver into place. (If you removed your toolhead, take this opportunity to reassemble the 5 main bolts before continuing) Pull your heater and thermistor wires taut through the cable management channels and zip tie them to the X-carriage. You don't have to go nuts here, but the presence of these wires is what locks the FanSaver in place and prevents the rear crossbar tabs from coming out of their mounting points. You've successfully installed your FanSaver! It's tested to be compatible with both Dragon and Dragonfly BMO hotend mounts of Mini Afterburner and Mini Aftersherpa, though likely will not fit the legacy Slice Mosquito variant of the toolhead without modification. NOTE: Due to its proximity to the hotend, this component is a prime candidate to be printed in something more heat-resistant than ABS such as PC-ABS, CF-Nylon, or any number of more exotic plastics. Otherwise, it probably doesn't hurt to print off one or two extras to swap in if the original part ever gets melty. None of the beta testers thus far have experienced a melting or softening of the FanSaver, but that doesn't mean it can't happen down the road.
  5. Was going to keep this one quiet, but then asking for others to do a build diary and me not - how did @smirk put it: pot; kettle;black - point taken. How did this start? Well I ordered some 300mm extrusions for the previous tri-zero build (Voron with a twist). However living where I do, postage can be an issue and I got tired of waiting for the parts to arrive, so I finished the previous build without the longer extrusions. Since then they have arrived, and having build two previous V0's, I had plenty of spare parts. And as the members of the forum has come to know, I have plenty of extra's for those "rainy days" or "just in case days" - again not hoarding, just forward planning. Also loved the way the TriZero prints - auto bed levelling, auto Z-calibration, etc. Thus - another Vo build. As you know, I cannot seem to build a stock standard Voron - thus decided to to the Box Zero, but wait there is more - the TriZero needs to be incorporated, as well as auto Z calibration, and I need the unofficial Mini-stealthburner from @atrushing but wait there is more - why only have LED's on the toolhead - modified the bed log - put an LED in there as well. And Who mounts for the bed.... Enough of my rambling - some pictures - don't have many as I was not going to do a build diary.
  6. So... here I am. I´ve sadly discovered this forum after finishing my build... I´m not sure is fair I introduce myself in the build subforum, as is already done... but Hey ho. This is Maurici. Automotive design engineer, and a fully 3D printing nerd... While I didn´t need a voron, as ALL my needs are plenty covered with a 400X400 bed slinger and a 220x220 also slinger, both custom build from Ender frames, that currently are Polycarbonate beasts (real stratasys polycarbonate... not the user friendly blends available out there)... Ok, then won´t go over 130mm/s but still good printers, I was in love with the Zero since I saw the project almost... 3 years ago? So... last month decided to bite the bullet and try a budget-aliexpress special-cheap ass self sourced Zero... Oh god. Why didn´t I do it sooner! what an ABSOLUTE joy has it been to build! I was expecting a long, difficult and frustrating experience after seeing some youtuber videos about parts not fitting ok, unclear instructions, people having to join livestreams in discord to understand the problems... and all was really straightforward and put toguether in a long day from 7.30am to 3am (till the first benchy actually finished) so take roughly 40 minutes of the first print and lunch... yeah, ok, nearly 20 hours. 4 of them fighting a bug in Klipper as I was pretty tired and missing obvious stuff... indeed all the parts were printed prior in my other printers. If not is undoable. Of course, as it won´t be my real workhorse, but more like a toy, I´ve decided to make the colours childish and toy-like... Anyway. After my introduction, find some pictures and videos of the build!! (at the end... as always happens, It wasn´t that budget friendly, nor that cheap ass. Ended with LDO motors, posh-Ish rails, proper belts and so... and only skimmed out on the board, the Pi (that I already had) and the extrusion kit, that was cheap as peanuts, but surprisingly accurate, and the hot end, that is a chinesium special clone that works frikingly well to be fair... As you can see in the pictures, I´ve gone for a very practical approach. Even in the cable management, while tidy, I´m not one to do "wiring porn" but to be practical. The thing has to be easy to service and mantain... I´ve enjoyed it that much that I have it for sale already, to build another one. and when the second is build, I may do the same again. Is like a grown ups lego. What a MEGA design this thing is. Should i sell the slingers and build a 2.4? oh. Excuse the RGB... I reused some fans from my old gaming station... and well. They had light... why not switch it on?
  7. Version 4.2.2022


    DooMini This is Voron 0.1 mod that improves the insulation of the printer by using double glazed panels and minimal hardware. The New planes help you print full bed size ABS without ever worrying about warping. I get almost 60c chamber temperature with DooMini. (The temperatures are measured at the base of the chamber which is usually the coldest area). Almost forgot ... it looks way Cooler For All STL file as we as manual and instructions visit https://github.com/TigranDesigner/Voron-Mods/tree/main/DooMini or download directly here.
  8. Version 2022.03.16


    LRS Screw Terminal Cover Designed to cover the screw terminals for several LRS style PSUs. Other Meanwell PSU may work. Feel free to ping me in discord to add to the compatibility list below. Pro tip: These are very snug to the point it will bow. This is intentional as it was designed to take some effort to take off. Printing Default voron settings No supports needed Compatibility List LRS-50 LRS-200
  9. Version 2022.11.18


    Voron V0.1 Tophat Extractor Tophat Exhaust Fan with activated carbon and HEPA filters. BOM (the BOM is for upgrading from an existing Tophat) 1 pc. 60x60x25 Fan (preferably without
  10. Version 2022.10.13


    Longer Thumb Nuts for Voron V0 After installing a Kirigami mount for my V0 bed, I found that the stock thumb nuts were too short, which made them very hard to adjust. I have also never been particularly fond of the shape of them and found them uncomfortable to adjust. Usage Print it, the standard Voron settings worked fine for me. Install 3mm heat set inserts to the bottom of the thumb nut (so that the tension will pull the heat set insert into the part, not out of it) Replace your stock thumb nuts Redo your bed leveling
  11. Version 2022.10.13


    Snap in 1515 LED mount for WS2812B led strips. BOM: WS2812BECO Black PCB - 5m 60 IP30 Some cables A soldering iron and some solder JST-XH Crimps Notes about the WS2812: 30 leds per meter fits, but you will only have a led in every second diffuser. 60leds per meter is the perfect fit. Print guide: Print 9 left and 9 right. Preparation: I use 9 led's on each side. Solder the cables. Now it's a good idea to test and configure the neopixels too, so you don't have to take it out again after you've mounted it, in case something is wrong. Just hang them over the spool holder and make sure nothing can short circuit while testing. Mounting: Guide the cables through the 1515 extrusion over the mid-panel. Push one diffuser in. (Do this in the front with the led strip as far back as possible) Slide the diffuser back while guiding the led strip through it. One by one. When you get to the last diffuser on either side, you have to partially insert the strip into the diffuser. Then carefully try to bend/align it with the 1515 slot and carefully pop it into place. Having it all the way to the front gives you more leeway to bend without damaging the strip. Do the same on the other side. After you can wire them in parallel and connect them to the BTT SKR Mini E3 V2 neopixel slot. Klipper config for BTT SKR Mini E3 V2: [neopixel case_lights] ## Chamber Lighting - In 5V-RGB Position pin: PA8 chain_count: 9 initial_RED: 1 initial_GREEN: 1 initial_BLUE: 1 If this looks familiar contact me so i can credit you. This is based on some other 1515 mount. I just remade the rest. Heavily based on eddie's misumi holders.
  12. Version 2021.08.24


    Voron0 MidPanel with Hex pattern print settings: layer height: 0.2mm color change at 0.6mm / 2.2mm V0.1 hardware: 4 x M3x8 BHCS 4 x M3 nut V0.0: Compatibility: Pocketwatch Z Belt mod hardware: 8 x M3x6 BHCS 8 x M3 Threaded Insert 4 x M3x8 BHCS 4 x M3 nut
  13. Version 2021.06.28


    My V0 is in my garage and my shop in the other room. Moving it back and forth for repairs was a pain as the V0.1 has no real place to grab it. And so I made handles that don't protrude much from the sides (16mm) of the tophat keeping the footprint as close to stock as possible. To mount: 4x M3x12 (8 for both sides) 3x M3 Nut (6 for both sides) Print two of the file that fits your side panel thickness 2.5mm 3mm You will have to add 3 nuts to the top extrusions as the handle replaces the top panel clip and requires 4 nuts (3 new + 1 old from panel clip) Remove the middle clip on the top extrusions but keep the nut in place. Unscrew both screws that hold the top right and left extrusions in place. Lift the extrusions just enough to be able to add 3 nuts in the outward channels. Seat the extrusions back into place and tighten the screws holding them in place. Reuse the existing nut (old panel clip) and the 3 new nuts to attach handle.
  14. Version 1.0.1


    Description PDF LGX Lite due Dragon hotend on V0 3d printer Bondtech lgx lite is the best extruder i never tested , it's light weight and compact and uses rounded pancake 36 stepper motor. which for me the best extruder can be done on the small printer like V0. 5x hex Nut (2 for the fans 2 for Retension_Block , 1 for sandwich main body left /Right ) 2x m3x40 (Fans housing mount (cooling part fans ) ) 3x m3x25 ( 1 for sandwich main body left /Right , 2 for mounting the toolhead on the X- carriage ) 2x m3x12 (mounting the front fan HE fan) 2x 2.5x8mm (for the dragon hotend) 4x m2x8 (for mounting the toolhead on the x-carriage (mgn7) ) 2x m3 heat set inserts (mounting the front fan (HE fan) ) 2x m3x10 (mounting the lgx lite on the main body ) check out my other desigh with HExtrodr mount on voron zero here !
  15. Am i the only one, who didn´t want to rip the printer apart, just to "preload" another few nuts into these 1515 extrusions? Let´s open new horizons with the smallest mod ever All you need are 4-sided M3 Nuts (the flat ones) 5.5x5.5x1.8mm (like DIN 562), one standard nut and a very long M3 screw (and some kind of grinder of course). 1st screw the standard nut onto the screw (leave 2-3mm of the thread sticking out. Then mount the flat nut, don´t let the thread stick out and lock the two nuts together. What you have now is just a "tool" to securely hold the nut against a grinding tool (bench grinder, belt grinder, even a dremel will do...). Grind a bevel (around 45°) on two opposite sides of the nut, "unlock" it and you´re ready to go... Just drop it into the extrusion (bevels facing down) Maybe this saves some hours of time and keeps some printers alive
  16. Version 1.0.0


    I created this as a way to prevent filament from getting into the electronics bay via the space around the z-rod. This screws in place of the two z liner rail stops so you can use the existing nuts to mount it. per design, it is a snug fit, but allows for clearance around the z-rod so as not to hinder its movement. The face of this should be printed down and I only allowed supports for the holes. Please let me know what you think about this or if you'd like to see any changes.
  17. Version 2022.09.23


    2 piece vented back Panels for Voron V0.1 Mounts with the stock V0.1 panel retaining clips. STL is sized for 2.5mm thick panels. 2 color print was made with a color change on layer 6 for a 2.5mm panel.
  18. Version 2022.08.16


    Runout UnKlicky Sensor The Runout UnKlicky Sensor is a filament runout sensor that can be used to pause a print if printing filament breaks, runs out or otherwise is no longer present in the sensor. The design uses magnets as the switch, making it easy and cheap to source BOM components. Printing: Components: 1x Pin.stl 1x Roller.stl 1x Base.stl (different options are available[*]) 1x Top.stl (different options are available[*]) Printer: Use the Voron defaults and print in ABS or better The parts are orientated correctly in the STLs [*]Base and Top: There are 3 bases and 4 tops to choose from: Bases: Base.stl is the standard base with push in holes for the PTFE tubes Base_PC4-M6.stl which allows the use of PC4-M6 connectors for the PTFE tubes Base_Collet.stl which allows the use of E3D M4 collets Tops: Top.stl is the standard top with no mounting options Top_2020.stl provides mounting to 2020 extrusions using a t-nut Top_1515.stl provides mounting to 1515 extrusions using an inserted nut Top_1515_NoNut** provides mounting to 1515 extrusions if you have no inserted nuts available [**] The Top_1515_NoNut can be used if you don't have any free nuts. It snaps into the extrusion. If it moves or slips, you can use a M2x10mm self-tapping screw to secure the sensor to the extrusion. Do note that the screw can scratch the inside the extrusion if that might bother you. BOM: 5x M3x8mm SHCS/BHCS (2x for the wired screws, 2x for the top/base, 1x for 2020 extrusion mount) 2x 6x3mm neodymium magnets (for the switch) 1x M2x10mm (optional for 1515 extrusion mount) 1x M3 Hammer T-Nut (for 2020 extrusion mount) 2x fork connectors (optional - for attaching wires) Assembly: Parts used: Insert one of the magnets into the pin, push it in fully so that it shows in the groove gap: Insert the corresponding pin into the base and make sure that they attract from the outside as shown: Insert the pin into the base with the pin grooves to the sides for the screws to enter. The pin should be pushed down to the bottom by the magnet in the base. Push the pin right up to the base magnet and screw in the screws to either side of the pin: Place the top on the base and secure with two screws: Attach cables to each screw that goes into the pin. There is no polarity and no voltage so it doesn't matter how they are connected. I used fork connectors for ease of use. Make sure the pin screws are screwed in tightly: Hook up the wires to a multimeter and put it on it's continuity test. It should show resistance (and/or beep) when there's no filament in the sensor: It should show no resistance (and/or remain silent) if you fully insert some filament into the sensor. Feed the filament through a few times from each side to ensure that you do not see any resistance when filament is present, and that you do see resistance when there is none: Wiring: Wire to an end-stop or similar pin. Do not connect to voltage, only to pin and GND. For example, with the BTT SKR MINI V2.0 you could use the E-STOP pin (PC15) and GND. For the BTT SKR Pico you could also use the E-STOP pin (gpio16) and GND. Klipper: A simple configuration is available in this repo. Upload and include runoutunklicky.cfg in your printer.cfg and change the PIN definition to the one you chose on your MCU. The config file contains what is required to use a runout sensor, but it will only literally pause the machine and resume when prompted. To have the toolhead parked away from the print to an accessible place to change filament, implement one of the following examples in your klipper configuration: AndrewEllis93 Mainsail Test by inserting and removing filament. If it shows incorrectly in klipper add a ! in front of the PIN definition and test again. Credits: Thanks to: chestwood96 for inspiration from the UnKlicky probe for SlideSwipe majarspeed for the Unklicky probe jlsa1 for the Klicky and Unklicky probes al3ph for the
  19. Version 2022.08.16


    Nozzle Wiper This is a nozzle purge and wipe mod for the Voron V0.1. It is based on the SlideSwipe magnetic probe by chestwood96. It uses a snap in frame clip, that doesn't require screws, to attach a servo that extends a bucket and brush over the build plate for the hotend nozzle to clean it of filament debris for cleaner prints. Goals: Servo used to extend system over the print bed Bucket and brush to clean nozzle Snap in frame clip that does not need screws Klipper macros to control the entire process These have all been implemented in this public release. Printing: Use the Voron defaults and print in ABS or better The parts are orientated correctly in the STLs There is a single All In One STL that fits onto the v0.1 build plate to make life easier BOM: 1x Micro Servo 9G Servo Motor (SG90/MG90) 2x M3x8mm BHCS (for servo mount) 2x M3x6mm BHCS (for brush holder mount) 2x M2x10mm self tapping screws (optional: for snap in frame clip) 1x Nozzle cleaning brush in Copper 3x OD 4mm, length 16mm, PTFE tube 1x OD 4mm, length 7mm, PTFE tube Hardware: Brush: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08H8SXBKM https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000801101276.html Servo: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0972M7JN1 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001956791642.html Assembly: Step 1 - Set Servo Take the servo and attach a single arm to the top. Slowly and gently rotate the rotor clockwise until it hits its limit. Remove the arm and replace it on the servo so that it is positioned slightly more than 90 degrees clockwise as shown in the picture above. This sets the servo arm to its 0 position. Use the smallest screw in the servo packaging to affix the arm to the servo in that position. Step 2 - Parts Preparation Remove the support tabs from the bucket. Cut down the brush head so that it matches the internal width of the brush holder. It's soft plastic so can be cut with a craft knife or a pair of angle cutters. Cut the PTFE tube into 3 lots of 16mm and 1 lot of 7mm. These will act as the hinges. Step 3 - Fit Servo to Mount Push the cable connector through the slot provided in the servo mount as this will run on the inside of the extrusion. Fit the servo into the mount and fix in place with 2 M3x8mm screws. You may need to fettle the plastic around the hole for the top of the servo for it to fit. Note the correct orientation of the servo. Step 4 - Servo Section Assembly Place 1 of the 16mm pieces and the 7mm piece of PTFE tubing into the sections as shown above. Place the section with the space for the servo arm first and then the double ended section behind it. Carefully seat the PTFE tubes into the servo mount and fix in place with the angled part shown to the top of the mount: Step 5 - Brush Section Assembly Place the remaining pieces of 16mm PTFE tubing into the ends of the fitted sections and then fix onto the brush holder using the remaining 2 M3x6mm screws. Fit the brush head into the brush holder: Step 6 - Motion Slowly and carefully, manually extend and straighten the arm to ensure a full range of motion: Step 7 - Wiring Before permanently mounting the nozzle wiper to the printer test whether it works as expected by wiring the servo to the MCU from outside of the printer. Red wire = 5v Brown wire = GND Orange wire = signal pin There are various choices for connecting the servo to the MCU. Here will will refer to the BTT SKR Mini E3 V2.0. Always turn off the printer before connecting or removing anything to or from the MCU. The simplest is to connect to the Neopixel or E0-STOP connector if it is not in use as it provides all 3 required connections. Alternatively, a Klipper Expander can be used if there are no free pins. Remember, do not fit the arm to the printer at this point. Step 8 - Klipper Upload the nozzlewiper.cfg file to your klipper configuration directory on the raspberry pi. If using Mainsail you can do this in MACHINE
  20. Version 2022.08.16


    2 piece vented back Panels for Voron V0.1 Mounts with the stock V0.1 panel retaining clips. STL is sized for 2.5mm thick panels. 2 color print was made with a color change on layer 6 for a 2.5mm panel.
  21. Version 2022.09.23


    Stealth Zero A low poly gantry mod for the Voron V0.1 In anticipation of the Mini Stealthburner I decided to alter the design of the V0.1 gantry to match the low poly aesthetic. You can find the low poly front bed mount here: https://github.com/MapleLeafMakers/Stealth_Bed_Front WARNING I feel like it is worth mentioning that this mod is in active development. I've personally been testing the V0.1 parts along with the front mounted X carriage without any issues. zruncho3d has been providing feedback on the design of the BoxZero mod and will be testing shortly. Included in this mod are: Front mounted belt tensioners - These can be used to allow for additional tension adjustment in combination with the stock motor tensioners of the V0.1 or in conjuction with the rest of the items available in this mod for a full stealth look. Optional front mounted X rail - The use of the motor mounts included in this repo are required to maintain the full 120mm of Y travel. A custom designed, adustable Y endstop mount is included in the folder containing the X carriage. Toolless motor caps - I can't be the only one that's dropped something into the motors, right? BOM (WIP) I've included the BOM for each individual component in their respective folders. There are a number of parts that are reused from a stock V0.1 build and the rest should be lying around as extras if you bought a kit. The only
  22. Version 2021.12.08


    DS18B20 Mount Simple DS18B20 temperature sensor mount based on the z endstop mount. BOM 1x DS18B20 / DS18B20-PAR 1x 4.7kohm resistor 2x M3x10 BHCS 2x M3 nuts 1x zip tie Instructions Drill hole in rear panel for wires Solder/connect sensor, wires, resistor and 4x2 dupont connector Position sensor in hole Bend sensor leads and secure with zip ties Secure mount in place similarly to z endstop mount Setup Raspberry PI for 1 wire (see https://www.circuitbasics.com/raspberry-pi-ds18b20-temperature-sensor-tutorial/ for a good tutorial) Setup sensor in Klipper [temperature_sensor chamber] sensor_type: DS18B20 serial_no: sensor_mcu: rpi Note: you can also position the mount on the inner side of the z axis rails which looks better, but also potentially block access to the z axis for later maintenance. Images Example setup using a DS18B20-PAR:
  23. Version 2022.07.20


    TipTophat TipTophat is an alternative Tophat for the Voron v0.1 which uses the BOM panels. It provides 30mm in additional height as well as better access via the additional door. It places the side panels fully virtically to make the tophat square. It also comes with hinges that can be used with the Tophat hinge mod. For the bleeding edge releases, see my development repo Printing: Use the Voron defaults and print in ABS. I have successfully printed the main body part(s) using 0.5mm layer width and 0.25mm layer height with 25% infill. This reduces both the time to print and the amount of filament used The parts are orientated correctly in the STLs If using the rear hing, print the appropriate Hinge_panel_left and Hinge_panel_right from Tophat hinge mod There is the choice of printing the whole body using the Unibody if you have a printer with a print bed of at least 238x238mm. Otherwise, you can print the separate quarters on a printer with at least 119x119mm printer bed. So they can be printed on a Voron v0, but it will be tight! BOM: Original BOM panels (panels of 2.5mm and 3.0mm have been tested) 28x M3x8mm** SHCS/BHCS (2x door frame hinge, 4x rear hinge (optional), 18x panel connectors, 4x tophat pins (optional)) 1x M3x12mm SHCS/BHCS (door hinge) 1x M3x25mm SHCS/BHCS (door hinge) 28x Brass heat inserts (2x door frame hinge, 4x rear hinge (optional), 18x panel connectors, 4x tophat pins (optional)) 2x 6x3mm Neodymium magnets VHB tape ** If your panels are 3mm in depth you will need to substitute 4x M3x8mm screws for 4x M3x(10 or 12)mm screws for the four mid connectors Assembly: Note: These instructions use directions based on the tophat in front of you being upside down with the back facing away from you and the front in front of you. Once you place the tophat on the printer, instruction directions are as you look at the printer from the front. Building the frame and inserting the panels: Place brass heat inserts into all the holes you are going to use. This is likely to be everything apart from the top 4 holes. Those top 4 holes are if you use the stock style pins to locate the tophat on the printer instead of using hinges at the back. If you are building using the unibody instead of the four quadrants, you need to arrange the four quadrants with Q1 at the back left, Q2 back right, Q3 front left, Q4 front right. They need to be aligned correctly. Place the top panel into the center of the bed and attach four connectors being very careful not to overtighten them, otherwise you can easily crack the print or the panels. It's better to have the connectors loose initially and tighten slightly until the panel doesn't move. Now work from the left, to the back, to the right, using the side and bottom connectors for each panel. Building the door: The door connector takes a single 6x3mm Neodymium magnet. You should be able to press fit the magnet into the hole. If it's too loose, use a bit of superglue. If it's too tight, use a file of drill bit to widen it a little. Attach this to the frame. Take the two door hinge parts and assemble. The screws go into plastic, so do not tighten. The hinges should be a little bit loose so that it moves cleanly without binding. This can be adjusted later. Put VHB tape on the panel hinge. With the hinge open, put the panel into place abutting the panel into the hinge and centered. Press the panel to the hinge with some pressure to ensure a good seal. Screw the hinge to the side of the tophat frame. There is adjustment available here for later if there are issues with the door opening/closing or being askew. If you are going to use the hinged tophat, screw the hinge parts to the back of the tophat frame. You should also fit the hinge parts to the printer. If you are using the standard locator pins, screw those in. Put the tophat onto the printer and screw the rear hinges together if you are using them. Note: The hinge holes are deliberately oversized to allow for different tolerances and spacing for the tophat to sit well on the printer. Hanging the door: Open the tophat door and close the main printer door. Now close the tophat door and check that it does not hit the main door. If it does there are a few adjustments that can be made later: Adding the handle: Take the door handle and the second magnet. With the tophat door closed, put the magnet against the frame magnet to get the correct orientation (use a marker pen on the magnet if it helps). Maintaining the correct orientation place the magnet into one of the holes in the foot of the handle: Place VHB tape over both of the handles feet: With the tophat door closed, align the handle with the magnet at the top opposite the magnet in the frame and keeping the handle straight press it onto the door. If it's not quite right, it should be fairly easy to carefully, and slowly, remove the handle and do it again. You can adjust the frame mount from the inside screws to change the fitting of the hinge. You can also tighten and loosen the hinge screws to lower and raise the door panel. If none of that works, unscrew the door hinge and take the hinge tophat door off. You can usually remove the hinge from the door, by very slowly pulling the hinge from the door panel, being careful not to snap the hinge or crack the panel. You can then redo the hanging steps for a better fit. Changelog: 2022-07-22 Updated Body Quarters and STEP file
  24. Version 2022.05.21


    MKS CANable Pro DIN rail mount This mod is to mount the MKS CANable Pro to a standard 35mm DIN rail. The CANable Pro is held from moving along its longest axis by the 4 locating pins and held onto the mount by a clip over the CAN transceiver holding it in place. The board can only mount one way due to the header pins and for any doubt the output directions are labelled on the mount. To print you need canable_pro_clip.stl canable_pro_mount.stl pcb_din_clip.stl (credits to the Voron team for making this) And 2*M2x10 self tapping screws or if you don't want one of the screws poking out a shorter one (5-7mm) or just cut the end off with snips. To assemble, screw the mount onto the PCB DIN clip and then place the board on the mount with the outputs aligned in direction shown on the mount. It should sit flush as shown below and then the clip slips over the top and locates into 2 small indents. Enjoy! Thanks to @Micko SE
  25. Version 1.0.0


    Bed fan mount for the V0. Uses an 80x80x25mm fan, I used this GDSTime one. It makes the enclosure heat up faster, and the bed cool down faster after prints. Fan definition: [fan_generic enclosure_fan] pin: PB8 max_power: 1.0 shutdown_speed: 0 cycle_time: 0.01 hardware_pwm: False kick_start_time: 0.1 off_below: 0.2 Klipper macro for preheating the enclosure: [gcode_macro PREHEAT] gcode: M140 S110 ; Preheat bed M104 S160 ; Preheat hotend M106 S255 ; Part fan at max {% if 'xyz' not in printer.toolhead.homed_axes %} G28 ; Home axes {% endif %} G0 X60 Y60 Z110 F5000 ; Move bed down and AB to middle M190 S110 ; Wait for bed to hit 110 SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=enclosure_fan SPEED=1 If you use this, make sure to also turn off the enclosure fan in the PRINT_START: SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=enclosure_fan SPEED=0 Klipper macro for cooling down the bed after the print ends: [gcode_macro COOLDOWN] gcode: {% if printer.toolhead.position.z < 110 %} G0 Z110 F3600 {% endif %} TURN_OFF_HEATERS SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=enclosure_fan SPEED=1 M106 S255 ; Part fan to max [gcode_macro PRINT_END_COOLDOWN] gcode: M400 ; wait for buffer to clear G92 E0 ; zero the extruder G1 E-4.0 F3600 ; retract filament COOLDOWN {% set max_y = printer.configfile.config["stepper_y"]["position_max"]|float %} G0 X60 Y{max_y} F3600 M190 S50 ; Wait for bed to cool down (note: will heat to 50) M190 ; Turn off bed ; Turn off fans SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=enclosure_fan SPEED=0 M107
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