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Printable Voron User Mods

Voron User Mods, or "UserMods", are a collection of community created and Team FDM curated modification for Voron Printers. All of these mods are available on the VoronUsers Github repo and unless otherwise specified follow the Voron communities GPL3.0 Licensing. Use any Mods at your own risk, if you make modification please share them on the VoronUsers repo.

Mod Authors: Have a Voron mod? Upload it at TeamFDM.com and let us know you're the author. We will ensure you can update and curate your files for more feedback! Please include tags for what Voron, or extruder your mod is compatible with. 

640 files

  1. v0.1 Front Foot with door ledge

    This is a replacement front left foot for the v0.1. It has a small ledge which holds the door in place, to reduce the air gap created between the tophat and the door from the filament hinge sagging. It does make the door take a little more effort to close - but it adds a feature, you can now prop open the door slightly during cooldown.

    19 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  2. V 0.1 ToolHead for 30x30x10 Front Fan Front Tool Head Cover

    This is a mod to use 30x30x10 hot end Fan. For me it's very hard to get 30x30x07 fans, I can get just in aliexpress or other china stores. Where I live its so easy get 30x30x10 fans, so I create this mods.
     

    113 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  3. Voron 350 Side Middle Grill

    [Voron 2.4 350] Open grill for the side skirt. Fits in snuggly. 2 screws.
    Modified from the original models using Sketchup Pro 2022 Pro (SKP file also provided).
    STL is 100% watertight and easy to print, and easy to modify to make smaller versions.
    I'm sure someone else must already have made a similar one, but I couldn't find any with a lazy search.

    128 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    2 comments

    Submitted

  4. FanSaver

    MiniAB_FanSaver
    A 3D-printable baffle to prevent Voron V0.1 Mini Afterburner blower fans from overheating

    Is your Mini Afterburner toolhead struggling to keep up with the part cooling you request? Are you running into weird overheating artifacts despite setting absurdly high part cooling speeds? Have you noticed your blower fans slowing down or audibly changing in pitch over the course of a print?
    You've come to the right place!
    There is an issue that has been cropping up in some Voron V0.1 printers where the combination of high chamber temperature and radiant heat from the hotend can cause the PWM smoothing chips inside your 3010 blower fans to overheat and, as a result, can cause the fans to slow down and speed up intermittently (sometimes even coming to a full stop). In particular, the GDSTime 3010 blower fan included in the LDO V0.1 kit and similar rebranded units have a max operating temperature between 60C-70C, which can easily be exceeded by a fully heatsoaked V0.1 at ABS printing temperatures.
    While there are a number of ways to overcome this issue, such as mini-heatsink installation, reflective tape, insulation, or high-temp fans, every other fix I came across was either an incomplete solution or required specialty parts / fabrication that were difficult to source or cumbersome to prepare.
    The goal of this project was to make an all-in-one heat-deflecting solution that could be printed on any ABS-capable printer and installed without disassembly of your Mini Afterburner, while still requiring no additional materials or reprints / replacements of existing parts. The result is the MiniAB FanSaver: a combination air dam and heat barrier that keeps your blower fans cool with minimal time and material investment.

    The print itself should only take around 20-25 minutes at moderate printing speeds and consumes approximately 3g of material. The installation is fairly straightforward and only requires cutting your two cable management zipties on the sides of the toolhead to slip the FanSaver in underneath. The installation process can be made easier by removing the toolhead from the X-carriage so you don't have to work upside-down inside your printer, but it will fit comfortably without doing so. Before starting with this modification, it is recommended to have two new zipties, a pair of flush cutters / wire cutters, a small hex key or other skinny blunt object for moving the wires around inside the toolhead, and a dental pick, needle, or similar pointy tool for removing your blower fan stickers.
    The installation process is as follows:
    Your hotend should be COLD for this process! Please don't try this at 245C and burn yourself. I recommend moving your toolhead to 60,0, dropping your build plate down 75-100mm, and then turning off and unplugging your machine for safety. Depending on the specific geometry of your hotend and associated silicone sock, you may have an easier time installing if you remove the silicone sock first and re-attach it after the FanSaver is in place.
    (Optional) Clip all toolhead zipties, remove strain relief & stepper screws, unscrew all 5 toolhead mounting bolts, and lay toolhead face down on print surface.
    Using a dental pick, needle, X-acto knife, or other pointy tool, get under the edge of the stickers on the backs of your two blower fans and peel the stickers off completely. These insulate the PWM chip from the airflow we're about to provide it, but still let through enough radiant heat that they're not providing any substantial protection in their default state. Be careful not to stab into the wiring cavities that the sticker covers.

    Clip left and right cable management zip ties and pull heater and thermistor wires toward the back of the toolhead shroud.

    Begin installation of FanSaver with the flat base facing down (same orientation relative to toolhead as it was printed). The semicircular scoops should be facing toward the front of the shroud / hotend fan and the rear rectangular crossbar with external tabs should face the rear of the shroud.

    Press your heater and thermistor wires close to the hotend so they're between the two vertical FanSaver panels (this may require more or less wrangling with your hex key or other skinny blunt tool depending on the specific heater and thermistor you have installed and the relative thickness / stiffness of their wires).

    Ride the rear crossbar's external tabs on the flat backs of the shroud like rails and slide the FanSaver into the shroud while guiding the heater and thermistor wires into the cable management channels.
    Once you hit the "ceiling" of the shroud with the pointy tops of the rear columns, check for left/right alignment and then gently press the front crossbar upward and forward to lock the FanSaver into place. (If you removed your toolhead, take this opportunity to reassemble the 5 main bolts before continuing)

    Pull your heater and thermistor wires taut through the cable management channels and zip tie them to the X-carriage. You don't have to go nuts here, but the presence of these wires is what locks the FanSaver in place and prevents the rear crossbar tabs from coming out of their mounting points.

    You've successfully installed your FanSaver!
    It's tested to be compatible with both Dragon and Dragonfly BMO hotend mounts of Mini Afterburner and Mini Aftersherpa, though likely will not fit the legacy Slice Mosquito variant of the toolhead without modification.
    NOTE: Due to its proximity to the hotend, this component is a prime candidate to be printed in something more heat-resistant than ABS such as PC-ABS, CF-Nylon, or any number of more exotic plastics. Otherwise, it probably doesn't hurt to print off one or two extras to swap in if the original part ever gets melty. None of the beta testers thus far have experienced a melting or softening of the FanSaver, but that doesn't mean it can't happen down the road.

    108 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    5 comments

    Updated

  5. Lights, Camera, Voron

    Mounts for LED strip lights and a Pi camera on the V0.1.
    Details
    There are three parts: a normal rail for mounting just LED strips, a rail with a mount for a Picam, and a rail with two lugs for zip ties. Each rail is 80mm long, with the intention of using two rails on each side. If you only want to mount lights, print four of the normal rail. If you also want to mount a camera, print two of the normal rails, and one each of the camera and zip tie rails.
    The rails work with 8mm wide sticky-back LED strips.
    Mounting the Picam using this mod is a tradeoff. It is in a relatively safe place, and provides an OK (but not great) view of printing. The camera covers most of the bed. Sometimes the mini Afterburner gets in the way of the view. Mounting the camera in the tophat would give a better view, but at the expense of needing to deal with the cable when removing the tophat.
     
    Assembly
    To install the rails, you'll need:
    8x M3 hex or square nuts 8x M3x8mm screws To mount the Picam, you'll additionally need:
    2x M2x6mm screws Insert the M3 nuts into the top of the top extrusions. This is pretty easy to do even after the printer is totally assembled.
    Feedback
    Feel free to contact me - I'm ademuri#2806 on the discord.
     
     
     

    16 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  6. Voron 0.1 lights USB and RJ45 connector

    1. Skirt mod that allows access to the Raspberry Pi's RJ45 and USB ports without opening the panels. Uses cheap panel mount USB and RJ45 connectors.
    2. Light mount for LED lights which draws powered from the power supply. Light switch is besides the USB port.
     

    26 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  7. C92X PsycHoShafts Mount

    Important Notes
    Hello everyone,
    Here is my C920 camera mod, please follow the disassembly guide below to remove the current mount off the camera. Please keep the 4 bottom screws from the mount as you will need them for my mod.
    Instructions For Disassembly
    Found Here!
    This mod allows you to set 2 point position for your camera,
    BOM
    Qty Item 2 M3x40mm 1 M3x10mm 2 Nuts 1 M3 Hammerhead nut https://camo.githubusercontent.com/758a4b22a5c56662c568b7ffb24373659bc0266bcc721e882b16ef4f2bb51f16/68747470733a2f2f7777772e70617970616c6f626a656374732e636f6d2f656e5f55532f692f62746e2f62746e5f646f6e6174655f4c472e676966
       
     

    231 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    1 comment

    Updated

  8. V0 Belt Tension Helper

    A belt tension helper - is a tool to do pre-tension of belts

    A tool act as a helper to do initial belt tension. It is able to do individual belt tension or synced tension of belts

    BOM
    2 or 3 M3 8mm bolts to mount helper to X-carriage
    2x15mm M5 bolts to fix belts when needed
    2x40mm M5 bolts and M5 nuts to perform tension

    While printing use higher infill for bottom or use cylidric modifies to add strength for pads where M5 bolts will do pressure See example here:
     

    Steps to perform:
    Step 1. Mount bottom part on X carriage and push thought belts. Keep in mind that loose belt backs square nut (use holes for regulate them)

    Step 2. Put top part and pass thought belts. Screw tension bolts to have zero minimal gap between bottom and top plate

    Step 3. Fix belts on top part but leave loosen on bottom

    Step 4. Tension belt by turning the bolts synchronously (do it sequentially by one turn for each)

    Step 5. When belt are in tesion fix them using service holes by allen hex key

    Step 6. Loose all M5 and unmount top and bottom tool parts
    (Optional). When need to do individual belt tension use combination of bolts fix or loosen. See example for case when need to do extra tension for top belt

     

    59 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  9. VSW Double 60mm Fan Mount

    Double 60mm Fan Mount for Voron Switchwire
    This is a simple mount for two 60mm fans in Switchwire's electronics compartment. It uses screws instead of VHB tape and was inspired by this mod. Of course you can also print it twice and mount four fans.
    Note that using fans in this position only makes sense if you use the deck and bottom panels, as they form an air tunnel. Without them, the fans will only blow against the frame and the air will not reach the electronics.
    BOM
    Item Qty. Note BHCS M5x10 2 M3 Heat Set Insert 4 SHCS M3x25 4 Screw length depends on the fans used Images

    38 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  10. AB Turbo Mod

    Voron Afterburner Turbo Mod
    This is a purely cosmetic mod for the Afterburner to bring it's appearance closer to Stealthburner.
    After having seen Stealthburner, Afterburner's design started to look a little dated to me. So I designed this mod. It simply replaces both of Afterburner's front parts with a single part. The only new hardware required are two shorter screws.
    BOM
    Item Qty. Note SHCS M3x20 2 Replace two SHCS M3x30 Images

    120 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  11. HEPA Filter Exhaust

    HEPA Filter Exhaust for Voron 1.x/2.x
    I've designed a new exhaust which uses a 120x120x25 mm fan and HEPA filters (compatible with MELEDEN, RIGOGLIOSO, JINPUS and LTLKY air purifiers). This is a direct replacement for the stock air exhaust system.
    Configured in Klipper to power the fan at 50%, and coupled with the nevermore micro, this seems to add to negative air pressure in the chamber and have a noticeable impact on reducing fumes, while only reducing chamber temperature by a couple of degrees C at the exhaust port.

    Bill of Materials
    New Parts
    1x 120x120x25mm fan such as Noctua NF-F12 iPPC-2000. (note that I have an adjustable voltage on my control board, but make sure your fan matches the voltage for your system.) HEPA Filter such as Nispira True HEPA Filter Replacement with Activated Carbon Parts from Voron BOM
    Parts here are already listed in the Voron 1.x (Trident)

    149 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    4 comments

    Submitted

  12. Klipper Expander Mount

    Voron-Mods
    Mounting tray for the Klipper Expander Board. I didn't care for the other 2 mounts i tried. Requires 2 M3 x 6mm screws. There are 2 versions of this mount.
    1: Only has a logo on the back for use with VHB tape
    2: Has logo and 4 M3 countersunk holes for bhcs for mounting on rails

    158 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  13. Belt Tension Wrench

    Belt Adjustment Wrench
    This is a wrench that goes over the AB belt tensioner nuts to help with fine tuning the belt tension.

    110 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  14. Scrubby

    Overview
    Scrubby is a filament dust scrubber that prevents any dust from reaching your nozzle and burning, causing partial clogs. My nozzle was clogging regularly and I decided to test a dust scrubber, and I have not had another clog for a very long time, so I thought I would make this design public in case someone else can benefit.

    Materials needed
    8x 6x3 Neodynium Magnets Any cheap, sponge-like material (I cut up part of a scotchbrite kitchen sponge) 2x Scrubby.stl Note: I tested the tolerances in ABS. Due to shrinkage, other filament may make a slightly larger hole. Assembly
    Assembly is quite simple; press fit or super glue the magnets into each hole, carefully paying attention to polarity. Cut up your chosen spongy material and fit it into each scrubby half. Place your scrubby halves together, sandwiching the filament between the halves. You want enough sponge to get a nice drag on the filament to make sure it cleans it as best as possible. I put mine right against the bowden retainer, shown in the picture above.

    Notes
    I included the solidworks part file and the step file in case anyone wants to modify. Make sure to clean the dust it filters off somewhat regularly. It pulls a suprising amount off. Please message me on discord if you have any questions. Happy clog-free printing!

    139 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  15. The Cephalopods Limb

    Just another DIN Rail bracket for BTT Octopus board
    This is an alternative DIN Rail bracket for Bigtreetech Octopus boards (Normal and Pro-HV), posted this way back in Voron Discord just never uploaded it to VoronUser Mods
    Use either 2 of the old style Voron 2.4(r1) r1_pcb_din_clips. or 2of the new trident/r2 ones r2_pcb_din_clips.
    Octopus board can be secured to those bracket with M3 screw, without nuts, just gently screw them in as its ah just plastic fitting!


    I've also made ah simple Version of the bracket, initially even before the octopus limbs Version, as there where no bracketavailable as i got my Octopus board...
    There are also the SVG Files of the Octopus Logo i created, from what i used to extrude the Bracket in Fusion360

    STL:
    Octopus limb bracket STL
    Simple bracket STL

    14 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  16. V2.4 Trident Spool Holders

    Why?
    If you are building Voron 300mm2 or 350mm2, V2.4 or Trident, you will soon discover you need a larger/deeper desk to accomodate your new machine, also if you have 5.5 or larger display mod you will end up with the printer being backed up against the wall and not enough space for the spool holder. After encountering the problem i've started messing with different designns that would provide stable, easily accessible place for the filament spool while keeping the filament path as short as possible.
    Print
    All parts are printed without supports. Recommended material is ABS/ASA but PETG or even PLA can be used as well. Frame extrusions get hot during long prints under enclosure so be carefull with PLA. Recommended perimeter count is 4 and 5 top/bottom layers with infil from 20% . All parts in STL already have correct orientation, just import and print.
    STL File naming:
    Classic__part_name.stl - Parts for Classic Voron spool holder design BB__part_name.stl - Ball Bearing Version parts Versions:
    1. Ball Bearing Version
    2. Classic Voron type spool holder
    Ball Bearing Version
    This version uses 100mm x 8mm rod for spool core mounting. Provides very smooth motion and virtually no resitatnce to the spool motion. The downside of this design is that the spool can free sping and cause the filament to jump off the spool and entangle.Since my printer is very close to the wall the wall itself servers as a resistance to the filament and prevents any free spinning and filament slipping off the spool.
    Ball Bearing version - BOM
    S-F-608-ZZ Bearings 1x 10mm x 8mm steel rod with cut internal M4 threads on both ends (easy to find on any mechatronics shop and easy to DIY) 10 M5x10 BHCS 4x M5x16 BHCS 4x M5 Hex Nut


    Classic Voron type spool holder
    This version uses classic Voron spool holder design adopted to fit the spool holder arm. This design is recommended as it greatly reduces/eliminates the risk of free spinning of the spool and filament slipping over the spool. This version is also simpler/easier and cheaper to make.
    Ball Bearing version - BOM
    8 M5x10 BHCS 4x M5x16 BHCS 5x M5 Hex Nut 1x M5x30 BHCS 2x 105mm PTFE (4mm OD)


    879 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  17. PITFT50 45 Degree Mount

    BTT PITFT50 45-degree Mount

    This mod is an alternative frame mount for alanho's PITFT50 screen mount. They suggest using the frame mount from sttts, which puts the screen at a 30-degree angle. I found that with the shorter guitar amplifier feet on the Trident and 2.4r2, the 30-degree mount makes the screen assembly too tall to fit under the frame. This mod replaces the 30-degree frame mount with a 45-degree mount, which provides plenty of clearance.
    This design was created from scratch, but was heavily inspired by other mods:
    roboticator24 - 4-inch Touchscreen Mount jeoje - 4.3-inch Touchscreen Mount sttts - Waveshare 5.5inch HDMI AMOLED Mount This was tested with a BTT PITFT50 v2, but will likely also work with sttts's 5.5-inch Waveshare mount, since the hole pattern is the same.
    Bill of Materials
    6x M3x8 SHCS 2x M3 T-Nuts alanho's PITFT50 mount Assembly Instructions
    Assemble the screen mount Use 4x M3x8 SHCS to attach the frame mount to the screen mount Insert 2x M3 T-nuts into the bottom of the frame Thread 2x M3x8 SHCS into the T-nuts to attach the mount to the frame Printing
    I printed with standard Voron settings, but this would probably be fine with fewer walls and less infill. I found this part very prone to warping, so you may want to use a brim or ears.

    381 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  18. Trident Bed Fans

    Trident Bed Fans

    Andrew Ellis's Bed Fans, adapted to mount on a Trident. See his mod for some useful macros and more information.
    Bill of Materials (per fan):
    1x 5015 Blower Fan 2x M3x20 SHCS 1x M3x8 SHCS 2x M3 Threaded Insert Install Instructions (per fan)
    Note: Install the printed mount onto the extrusion before attaching the fan. The mounting screw will be inaccessible once the fan is attached.
    Heat-set the threaded inserts into the holes in the L-shaped section Add one M3 T-nut to the rear-facing slot of the bed extrusion Use 1 M3x8 SHCS to attach the printed mount to T-nut, aligning the bump in the printed part with the slot on the extrusion. Pass 2 M3x20 SHCS through the fan mounting holes and screw into the threaded inserts to attach the fan to the printed mount

    227 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  19. MKS Mosfet Mount

    MKS Mosfet Mount

    A mount for a BIQU116-A2 MKS Mosfet based on the Trident Raspberry Pi mount. Use an extra pcb_din_clip_v2 to fix it to the DIN rail.

    30 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  20. SW Wall Plate

    Switchwire Wall Plate
    This mod is for pure aesthetics. A Voron Switchwire logo plate to install on the back wall of your printer's enclosure.
    (Or optionally on the front grill if no enclosure - but only if you're not already using the LCD mount...)

    Note: Overall size is about 225x50 (about 10mm thick)
    BOM
    (4) M3x8mm BHCS (4) M3xD5.0xH4.0 heat-set inserts VHB tape
    Directions
    Install inserts in the WITCHWIRE_base
    Use backplate_and_drillguide to drill holes in your back panel
    Use thin strips of vhb tape to affix the badges into respective recesses on the base (no need to affix base to backplate)
    Note: badge tolerances are tight - you might need to sand a bit off the edges of the badges.

    Attach to back panel with (4) M3x8 screws (Optional: To use on front grill, affix all parts together using vhb tape, and similarly affix the optional nolcd_grill_mount to the center top of the backplate.)
    CAD
    OpenSCAD sources are included (it's all I know). They are sparsely commented - make modifications as you wish.

    Tip: If you resize the badges, use hundredths of a mm to adjust.

    63 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    2 comments

    Updated

  21. LCD Case Mod

    LCD Case Mod
    I have made some changes/improvements to the Mini12864 LCD case as follows:
    I found the hot melt inserts to be difficult to align straight, on both the rear and front case due to the geometry and space constraints. I have therefore removed them and resized the holes accordingly. For the case rear, I have added M3 threads to the 4 fixing holes, these should print fine with standard Voron printing settings. I have added a lip around the screen cutout to better hide the PCB board behind it. This is simply for aesthetic reasons. I have added an E-stop button cover, taking inspiration from both the previous Voron LCD cover as well as the Prusa i3 design. This allows for both easier prodding of the E-stop button as well as improving the aesthetic of the case (in my opinion). Standard vs. modded design comparison
    Please see below the changes between the standard/stock LCD case in the first image, and my modded design in the second.
     

    Installed Case Mod
     
    Installed and working well 🙂
     

    75 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  22. DooMini

    DooMini

     
    This is Voron 0.1 mod that improves the insulation of the printer by using double glazed panels and minimal hardware. The New planes help you print full bed size ABS without ever worrying about warping. I get almost 60c chamber temperature with DooMini. (The temperatures are measured at the base of the chamber which is usually the coldest area). Almost forgot ... it looks way Cooler 😛 
    For All STL file as we as manual and instructions visit https://github.com/TigranDesigner/Voron-Mods/tree/main/DooMini or download directly here.
     

     


    1,713 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    8 comments

    Updated

  23. Z Belt Covers with Wire Management - hide wires from extrusion groove to base

    Two part wire duct that replaces the Z belt covers and directs the wires away from the belts under the deck plate. No need to modify the original deck plate. For easy use, pass wires before assembling with CA glue
    the upper duct has print support integrated in the part

     

    268 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  24. Misumi Cable Clip

    Misumi Cable Clip
    Credits:
    Eddie from the Voron-Team (From his awesome Misumi Led Clips) Printing:
    Default Voron settings, correct orientation, no supports Bom:
    Nothing Description:
    It's a stupid Clip to hide your cables stiff and secure inside that extrusion cutout. You can scale this in Z-Size to whatever you want. By default it's 8mm, as i find it the perfect size. Please don't even try to print only one of this, it's tiny, you need layer-time xD Pictures:
     

    822 downloads

       (4 reviews)

    1 comment

    Updated

  25. Klicky Probe for v2.4, v1.8, Trident, and Legacy

    Microswitch probe with magnetic attachment, primarily aimed at CoreXY 3d printers with a focus on the Voron printers, should work on other printers with the variable mount.
    The objectives for this project are:
    drop in replacement for Omron TL-Q5MC2 or PL-08N2 (you don't need to replace the toolhead) easier and faster to build than similar probe types does not require soldering fixed probe dock mount (for the printers that are suported), less variables to adjust be able to detect all the print surfaces be as close to the hotend tip as possible highly repeatable and accurate probes less temperature variations no melting of its parts cheap to build It can also be used with the new automatic Z calibration klipper plugin to effectively calculate the Z offset from the probe and from the Z endstop.
    The inspiration for the Klicky Probe comes from the Annex magprobe and the Euclid probe, it uses some concepts from each of the projects.

     
    There is no need for supports, recommended settings are 4 perimeters/top/bottom, 13% infill.
    The probe dock is mounted on the gantry, allowing it to be used as a Z endstop if desired (I use it that way).
    There are three gantry extrusion mounts possible:
    one fixed to be used on the Voron V2.4 or V1.8 AB with MGN12 or MGN9
    - one that has some variance for other toolheads

    - one fixed sidemount dock to allow a purge/scrub bucket on the left side of the bed

    The fixed gantry extrusion mounts have been confirmed to work on the Voron V2.4 and V1.8
    The normal magnet installation is that the two magnets that attach to the microswitch are installed with the same polarity, the 3rd magnet should have the inverse polarity. There is however the possibility that the magnets will demagnetize over time due to the alternating magnetic fields thay may result in a slow but sure demagnetization of the magnets, the magnets are so strong that may take a long time to show the effects of demagnetization YMMV.
    No soldering is necessary, the probe microswitch connectors are also press-fit on the magnets.





     
    The AB mount wires are also connected with pressure from the magnets, you can use the probe magnets as a template to insert the AB mount magnets, it is easier that way to don't insert the magnets the wrong way.





     
    You will not lose Y travel on any configuration in the tests that were done.
    It is also recommended to glue the magnets in place, superglue is good.
    You will need to add macros to Klipper to be able to dock and undock the probe as necessary to do the Endstop (if necessary) and Quad Gantry Level, it is in the Klipper Macro directory.

    Probe BOM:
    1x microswitch (the omron D2F-5 or D2F-5L (removing the lever) is recommended) 2x M2x10 self tapping 4x 6x3 magnets AB mount BOM:
    3x 6x3 magnets Probe Dock:
    1x 6x3 magnets 2x M3x20 Fixed Dock mount:
    2x M3 threaded insert M3x5x4 2x M5x10 2x M5 t-nut or equivalent or
    variable Dock mount:
    10x M3 threaded insert M3x5x4 8x M3x8 2x M5x10 2x M5 t-nut or equivalent If you would like to check a possibly more uptodate repository, check here
    The macro is based on a version provided by the user garrettwp on Discord, many thanks to him. I have tweaked it a lot. It is also originally based on the great Annex magnet dockable probe macros "#Originally developed by Mental, modified for better use on K-series printers by RyanG and Trails" and can be found here
    Would also like to thank the Voron discord community and VoronDesign for all the work that was and still is being made to maintain the Voron ecosystem.
    The probe accuracy output is something like this: probe accuracy results: maximum 6.430000, minimum 6.426250, range 0.003750, average 6.428750, median 6.428750, standard deviation 0.000791
    There is now an arrow on the probe telling you where should the switch pole be to have the correct offset. The probe offsets are:
    z_offset = 6.42 x_offset: 0 y_offset: 19.75 Assembled Klicky Probe

    Dock and undock video
    It is working very well, if you decide to use it, give me feedback, either here, or on discord, my discord user is JosAr#0517.
    By standing on the shoulders of giants, let's see if we can see further.

    5,778 downloads

       (1 review)

    0 comments

    Updated

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