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Found 7 results

  1. Version 1.0.0

    27 downloads

    I couldn't find an elegant way to attach the Z-Chain with a aluminium AB drive upgrade, so i remixed a original spacer... I have the Alu AB Drive Set from Funssor
  2. Version 1.0.0

    29 downloads

    This Cable Bridge has been redesigned to fit a carbon or CNC aluminum XY joint where the screws are not flush with the top surface of the XY joint. This bridge also provides a little more distance from the cable chain.
  3. So I decided to self source Voron 2.4 R2 back in August I bought most of the parts so far I am going with 350x350x350 generic cable chains with SB and Rapido 2 HF with BTT Octopus and raspbery Pi 4 Extrusions from Aliexpress Motion kit from Aliexpress Pi 4 B2 2GB from Pi Hut BTT LDO motor kit from Aliexpress
  4. Version 1.0.1

    655 downloads

    This model is for the PCB Klicky probe available from Fysetc, as featured in the Whopping Voron Mods pack - whopping_Voron_mods/pcb_klicky at main · tanaes/whopping_Voron_mods · GitHub PCB Klicky is based on 2 mods - Klicky Probe by JosAr and Euclid Probe. I really didn't like the original dock that came in the mod pack, I found it to be very fiddly and ineffective for holding the probe. This replaces the dock-front_insert.stl file from the pack. This dock has an enlarged hole on the front to fit the magnet attached to the probe, it also has a space behind big enough to fit a 6x3mm magnet to help hold the probe in place. As well a this, it has tabs on the top to cover the klicky while docking and undocking. This model should be printed upright (as loaded when opened in your slicer) with Voron specs. Tested and working on one of my custom 2.4r2's I went through 2 other iterations of this design before settling on the one that's uploaded; V1 kept to the height of the original dock, however, was slightly too tight all over and didn't have the back magnet mounting. V2 saw an increase in the height of the tabs, allowing for slightly more space to rest the PCB. This proved to be a better fit, but I wasn't happy with the sizing of the front magnet hole - in this iteration I included the back magnet hole. V3 saw an increase in the hole sizing on the front, this enables the probe to dock and undock effortlessly, with no thought. **ADDED 28th JUNE 2023** I have also now made a side mount to attach probe to an adjustable docking station - I use a Volcano hotend and the standard dock isn't long enough, also the side mount doesn't fit the adjustable mount. This enables you to use a longer print head and still use things like the nozzle scrub mod
  5. My Voron 2.4 running Klipper had been running great for a while but the afterburner assembly was starting to show weakness. I thought it was a good time for an upgrade so I installed a new Orbiter 2.0 with filament detector on my Voron 2.4 and the problems began...... witht he Orbiter 2.0 installed i have not been able to get my rotation distance anything like close to accurate. last print had massive over extrusion with lots of noise from the extruder. To statrt isolating the problem /as an experiment I ran 50mm (requested) filament through the extruder body only (no lower nozzle assempbly) and got about 250mm of filament instead. Fortunately the awful noise stopped. Ergo i think my initial problem is that the over extrusion i jsut discovered was overwhelming the nozzle and jamming. easy so far. On to the print config..... And incredible frustration as any and all changes to the print config file make no measurable difference in the amount of over feed. here is the code after a lot of trial and error and no change (i suspect there are a number of settings that i have turned off or on to see what if anything would happen- no change.). here is the code- ##################################################################### # Extruder ##################################################################### ## Connected to MOTOR_6 ## Heater - HE0 ## Thermistor - T0 [extruder] step_pin: PE2 dir_pin: PE3 enable_pin: !PD4 ## Update value below when you perform extruder calibration ## If you ask for 100mm of filament, but in reality it is 98mm: ## rotation_distance = <previous_rotation_distance> * <actual_extrude_distance> / 100 ## 22.6789511 is a good starting point #Bondtech 5mm Drive Gears AfterBurner ## 34.37086 for Bondtech 8mm gears (Galileo ## rotation_distance: 4.637 for Orbiter 2.0 rotation_distance: 4.637 ## Update Gear Ratio depending on your Extruder Type ## Use 50:17 for Afterburner/Clockwork (BMG Gear Ratio) ## Use 80:20 for M4, M3.1 # orbiter motor LDO-36STH20-1004AHG(XH) # gear_ratio: 7:1 microsteps: 16 full_steps_per_rotation: 200 #200 for 1.8 degree, 400 for 0.9 degree # max_extrude_only_distance: 500 # max_extrude_only_velocity: 120 # <- for orbiter motor LDO-36STH20-1004AHG(XH) # max_extrude_only_accel: 800 # <- for orbiter motor LDO-36STH20-1004AHG(XH) nozzle_diameter: 0.400 filament_diameter: 1.75 heater_pin: PA2 ## Validate the following thermistor type to make sure it is correct ## See https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html#common-thermistors for additional options sensor_type: SliceEngineering 450 sensor_pin: PF4 min_temp: 10 max_temp: 270 max_power: 1.0 min_extrude_temp: 170 # control = pid # pid_kp = 26.213 # pid_ki = 1.304 # pid_kd = 131.721 ## Try to keep pressure_advance below 1.0 pressure_advance: 0.025 ## Default is 0.040, leave stock pressure_advance_smooth_time: 0.030 ## E0 on MOTOR6 ## Make sure to update below for your relevant driver (2208 or 2209) [tmc2209 extruder] uart_pin: PE1 interpolate: False run_current: 0.85 hold_current: 0.100 sense_resistor: 0.11 stealthchop_threshold: 0 # driver_TBL: 0 # driver_HEND: 6 # driver_HSTRT: 7 # driver_TOFF: 4 ###################################################################################################### ## I haven't made any changes above or below these lines so i the problem MAY be in here################################## ###################################################################################################### All of which leads me to my theory - incorrect wiring of the ldo-36st17-1004ahg to the tcm2209. Now i am very new to electronics and the instructions for wiring the Orbiter 2.0 to the V2.4 are yet to be found by me (if anybody has them, please share) so it would be an easy mistake. i feel like this is some sort of reversed polarity issue and leaves me with no idea where to begin with figuring this out. anybody got any ideas?
  6. Hello, im new to 3dprinting, after i bought my first 3D printer then i saw Voron on youtube. took 3-4 months gathering the parts needed and finaly finish building Voron in december last year. and it was fun experience building it. here my build added Klipperscreen and now with stealthburner using LCD 3.5 inch touchscreen.. yep, it's small... and got best mod from here that i added to the build. thank you
  7. Version 3.1.3

    487 downloads

    This is the Super Stealth Orbiter, a super low profile mount/housing for your Orbiter 1.5 with easy access for servicing the Orbiter without removing it from the printer/housing. After using 3dPmamsih 'Orbiter 1.5 for StealthBurner' for a few months I knew there were a few things I wanted to change. 1) To have an unbroken PTFE path from the exit of the orbiter directly down to the hot end. 3dPmamsih version had a break and required two pieces of PTFE with a bit of housing between. There were a few times my filament hung up in this section, so I wanted to remove it. 2) To break the full loop in front of the Orbiter that prevented the idler door from fully opening. This further prevented easy access to clean the gears and thus service or clean the extruder. 3) To have a proper Bowden tube coupler. 4) Various tweaks to the design to add additional reinforcement, rigidity, ease of assembly, and overall long term durability. 5) A sleek look that gives little to no indication of the extruder being used. This includes removing the thumb wheel from the idler tensioner and instead simply using an m3 bolt. In my case I find I can still tension to the desired amount with just my fingers and the bolt. I also don't tend to adjust this much once its set. PTFE path BOM: (Ill add this soon, but nothing special. If you have some m3 hardware and heat sets from your build you are probably good to go. Compatibility: Super Stealth Orbiter works with Orbiter 1.5 (I think that means the 1.0 should work too. Not sure.), the new MGN 12 based X-carriage (bolts go in from the front) and StealthBurner of course. Please do leave a comment and let me know how its working for you. If anyone wants to see a version for 2.0, send me one! Ill model it up and test it out. Don't need the motor, just extruder Finally, Ill try get a GitHub repo up for this as well. Thanks to 3dPmamsih. His design is the foundation for the Super Stealth Orbiter. I believe he adapted his design from Eytecz LGX lite mount, so big thanks to him too. (https://github.com/Eytecz/LGX_Lite_Stealthburner_CW2_style_mount/ ) "for his mount of lgx lite on SB to inspire me to complete this orbiter 1.5" .
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