Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'kit'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • TeamFDM
    • Site Updates and Announcements
    • Frequently Asked Questions
    • General Discussion
    • Voron User Mods
    • Filaments
    • Build Diaries
    • Introductions
    • Tutorials
  • Voron Build Support
    • Voron 0
    • Voron Trident
    • Voron 2
    • Voron Legacy
    • Voron Extruders
    • Voron Electronics
    • Slicers and Print Troubleshooting
  • Other FDM Printers
    • Ender 3 / Ender 3 Pro
    • Anet A8 / AM8
    • Prusa
    • Generic / Other
  • Marketplace
    • The Bazaar
  • Vendors
    • KB-3D
    • Voron Printed Parts Co.
    • Fabreeko
  • Off-Topic
    • Random
    • TeamFDM Member's Creative Collection


  • Non Printable Files
  • Printable Voron User Mods
  • Manuals and PDF Guides
  • Creative Collection
  • Tools and Calibration
  • Official Voron Releases


  • User Mod Installs
  • Build Techniques
  • Programming
  • Team FDM Site Tutorials
  • CAD / Fusion 360 Tutorials


  • Voron General
  • Why we are the best digital marketing services in Chennai

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start



About Me

Voron Serial #1

Voron Serial #2

Voron Serial #3

Voron Serial #4

Voron Serial #5

Voron Serial #6

Voron Serial #7

Found 12 results

  1. Background: I was one of the many Kickstarters who bought the Creality CR-6 SE in 2020 as their first 3D printer. However, I am probably one of the rarer individuals who only unboxed and started printing with it 2 months ago. After that was upgraded with Octoprint, modded firmware, PEI, dual gear extruder, a new toolhead and various other quality of life improvements, the time came to move this new hobby obsession to the next level. £430 (£70 import tax) lighter, and two boxes arrived to the UK from China from Formbot within a week via Fedex. I am hoping to use the experiences here for a Voron v2.4r2 350mm in a few months time, as well as use this for v2.4's functional parts in ABS. The Build: Formbot V0.2r1 Kit with all ABS parts - includes Kirigami, Umbilical PCB Phaetus Dragon SF hotend with 0.4mm nozzle Siboor Steel Kirigami Bed BTT SKR Pico BTT Pi v1.2 BTT TFT35 SPI (for BTT PI) Klipper Expander - for extra fans, Neopixels and thermistors (https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Hardware/tree/master/Klipper_Expander) MFNano (https://github.com/MapleLeafMakers/MFNano) V0 No-Drop Nuts (https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/zruncho/V0_No_Drop_Nuts) Foldable spool mount (https://www.printables.com/model/542953-locking-foldable-spool-holder-for-voron-v02-0-v0-0) DIN mounted electronics (https://www.printables.com/model/586977-voron-v02-electronics-din-rail-bracket) Modesty Mesh (https://www.printables.com/model/407822-voron-v0-modesty-mesh) Cable duct (https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/ryandam/Cable_management_duct) Klipper Expander duct (https://www.printables.com/model/317519-voron-v01-v02-klipper-expander-cable-duct) V0 Stealth Handles (https://github.com/MapleLeafMakers/V0_Stealth_Handles) Kirigami PCB (https://github.com/livinhack/Kirigami-PCB) Kirigami Neopixel (https://github.com/MapleLeafMakers/Stealth_Bed_Front) Lighting - Rainbow On A Matchstick (https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Hardware/tree/master/Daylight) Chamber thermistor mount (https://github.com/MapleLeafMakers/V0_Chamber_Thermistor_Mount) ZeroClick probe (https://github.com/zruncho3d/ZeroClick) PanzerObserver camera mount (https://github.com/Slidr666/VoronUsers/tree/18599db8c29c9a272f852d1dac9ad5d014d0a496/printer_mods/Slidr/PanzerObserver2.4) Possibly - DragonBurner V8 toolhead and CAN bus (BTT) in future, depending on tinkering motivation! Preparation / Resources: I have been closely following @Perkeo's build, trying to absorb everything. Dmason's V0.1 blog has also been useful: https://3dpandme.com/category/printer-builds/v0-1/ Ballistic Tech has a vlog on this kit here: I am pretty happy with electronics, linux command line and mechanicals. Although had to purchase some crimpers and a couple of 123 blocks for the build. Additional things not included in the Formbot kit: Lithium EP2 grease, Isopropanol Alcohol 99.9%, threadlocker, various connectors (Wagos, XT60, JST). Voron Discord Profile: Lik#5169
  2. I'll get a head start on this build diary while the kit is still on the way. I've been plotting a V0 build almost from when the Trident was complete, but have been putting it off. Well, first kick was winning the printed V0 manual from the Voron holiday giveaway which arrived a while later and the latest & final kick was Fabreeko throwing a coupon at Nero commenters. Then when I "lamented" that it didn't work on the Rook and that the V0 kits in gray were out--thinking I had my out--Hector went and dug up one in stock and updated the website. I couldn't not buy the kit now, could I? I had planned a Rook build next as a father-daughter project but it looks like she gets to help build a V0.2. Darn. /s I am planning on Fusion Geomagnetic Mauve for the primary, and (with daughter & wife's input) Polymaker Galaxy Teal for the accent. Oddly this was an easier decision than the Trident build. Also, yes, it's going to be sparkly despite my membership of the GOMs. Now for a question. I do not have a Pi Zero 2W and am not willing to spend >$100 for a $15 CPU. I do have a couple of Pi 3Bs which will work. Also, the local MicroCenter has a ton of Zero 2 in stock. So, will the Zero 2 suffice (I think no)? Or, is there a mount out there somewhere for the Pi 3 on a V0? Though browsing the nice printed manual it looks like I can steal a Pi mount from the Trident files & print that DIN cleat. (now grabbing & hoarding those Pi 3s a while ago looks like a genius move) So the specs. It's the LDO V0.2-S1 kit and is coming pre-pimped-out. Top hat bumped to 100mm version LDO slide in M3 nuts Kirigami bed Pre assembled polyimide bed. 200W upgraded power supply Picobilical toolhead PCB & umbilical. LDO edition SKR Pico Revo Voron (the blue heat sink is getting swiped for the blue Trident which will donate it's red Voron edition heat sink. Because reasons). Hiwin X rail, HoneyBadger rails for the rest. Looks like a couple of plates: Honey Badger textured PEI & a dual smooth PEI/carbon fiber. I'll want to add a small-ish touch screen because the Waveshare 4.3" on the Trident running KlipperScreen is so, so nice. It will also make the printer a bit more kid friendly. Also later LEDs. Lots of LEDs. I'm tempted to try and see if I can force boop to work even though it's not supposed to.
  3. Hi, everyone! Lurking on this forum helped me way more then official discord (probably because I have no idea how to use discord properly), so I decided to join. And to motivate myself, I decided to start a build diary right away. I bought a kit from Siboor, it came and last Saturday I started to assemble my Voron 2.4. I already put the frame together, and it was way easier than I expected. I'm still not sure if I placed bed extrusions correctly, since I couldn't get distances to be precise, but I'll see how it goes when I will attach bottom plate and a bed. I think it's almost in a right spot by now. Funny thing happened after I assembled the frame. I was chilling and looking for some tips and tricks, and found a page in Voron documentation that said "measurements should be < 2mm different" about frame diagonals. I was so worried with my difference of ≈0.3 to ≈0.5mm, so after reading this, I had a bit more faith in myself, and that feels good. Next day I bought some lithium grease and thread locker, so this weekend is a Day of the Rails. Gonna clean 'em, grease 'em, put 'em in a frame. Never worked with linear rails before, so a bit afraid to bend them, or to drop the carriage, but that is not the part that scares me most. Most of all I'm scared about electrical parts. I haven't touched soldering iron and multimeter in long time, so it would be like learning everything anew. Found out that it's a good idea to check if heating element and thermistor are good. I'll start relearning how to use multimeter with this, probably today or tomorrow. Anyways, glad to join the community, and wish me luck!
  4. Hello everyone, this is my first build diary, so I apologize in advance for any unclear photos or text. I will be building a Salad Fork, which is basically a scaled down VORON Trident that uses 1515 extrusions. So far, I’ve completed the frame and z motion/bed.
  5. My name is Kurt and this is my build. I chose to go with an LDO kit for my first Voron in the hopes to go down a well-traveled path with a lot of folks having "been there, done that". I previously built a Prusa Mk3s which is straight lego build-by-the-numbers by comparison. Most of my printing on the Prusa has been PETG, using a Chris Warkocki sourced profile that seemed to just 'work'. I started to source parts for a Bear Prusa build, and then Voron dropped on the scene. I realized I didn't need a second bed-flinger and started planning on doing a Voron build. I ordered my LDO kit from Fabreeko and was very happy with the prompt shipping and packaging. I also ordered a set of PIF printed parts at the time and went with Black and Radium Green from Fusion Filaments. I've always been a sucker for that black/neon green aesthetic. My Bear build was going to be black/neon green, so this is a nod towards what might have been. I'm posting the pictures I've taken up to this point and welcome any observations, questions, or suggestions for my build/process. Thanks for following along! It begins:
  6. After receiving my Formbot Voron V0.2r1 kit in two parcels, the kit from Czech Republic warehouse and the printed parts from China, I started building the kit last week. Extrusions looked very good, clean and straight cuts with the edges anodized. I wanted the M2 Nut Adapter and No_Drop_Nuts and other small prints to be printed in ABS instead of the regular PLA I printed so far, thus went with black eSun ABS+ printed on my Ender3 Pro. With change of a printer, wanted to have a try with a different slicer as well so changed from Cura to SuperSlicer. I went with the Voron PIF settings and standard ABS setting from SuperSlicer (245C extruder and 90C bed). I don't think my Ender 3 reached 245C because it stopped at 235C which I think is the maximum I specified in Marlin firmware. Still these small parts just printed fine, so did not bother changing anything else. Not sure if is really needed, but will apply some loctite on metal-metal connections. The PLTight (or Vibra Tite) VC-3 supposedly is safe to use on ABS as well and can be re-adjusted a couple of times! One linear rails in the kit is marked as pre-loaded and will be used on the X-axis. Plenty of preloaded nuts with the very handy No_Drop_Nuts. And we have a frame with Kirigami bed. Next step will be the A/B Drives and Idlers.
  7. Building a bed slinger this time around. Kit is in transit. I went with Frombot3D, they did me right with my 2.4R2 build so I'm going with them again. Would have like to try the LDO kit but price and availability turned me away. I guess I will see if the savings ends up being worth it or not. So far I'm printing parts. Base parts are Prusament Galaxy Black ASA, Accent parts will be FilamentOne ASA Sky Blue.
  8. This post will be continually updated with the latest and great known information regarding available Voron "Kits". As, clearly defined in any communications, The Official Voron Design does not recommend or prefer any of these vendors. The list here is only identified as those vendors who have been identified as successful builds and full kits that are available. Purchase kits at your own risk, knowing that parts can change, often times for the worse, and as is true with my Chinese parts, Meanwell PSU labelled as such, does not mean it's a legitimate Meanwell PSU, same thing with other popular components (like Gates belts) and fasteners. While these are not in any specific quality order, they are in order of popularity and availability. Note: for best results order from AliExpress from user who have the MOST sales - likely they are the best sourced Kits with the fewest flaws. Additionally, and perhaps most importantly for this thread - Yes, sourcing your own parts will increase your build quality, and verify proper function and fitment. This thread is NOT a discussion on pro's and cons of sourcing parts vs buying kits . Let' try our best to stay on topic! Voron 0.1 Fabreeko - Pre-Order Formbot - Frombot3d.com KB-3D - kb-3d.com 3DMakerParts - LDO Kit https://3dmakerparts.com/products/ldo-voron-v-0-1-full-printer-kit Voron 1.8 MagicStudio - Direct Website Voron Trident (Formally v1.8) Formbot - Formbot3d.com 3DMakerParts - https://3dmakerparts.com/products/voron-trident-full-printer-kit-preorder?variant=40841158688975 Voron 2.4 Formbot - Formbot3d.com Fystec - AliExpress <- Most Common 2.4 AliExpress Kit DigiMach - https://store.digmach.com/collections/voron-kits 3DMakerParts - https://3dmakerparts.com/products/voron-2-4-kit Voron SwitchWire Formbot - Formbot3d.com KB-3D - kb-3d.com (Pre-Order) Voron Legacy Funssor - AliExpress Frame Kit If you have any direct experience or would like to suggest another kit for this list please respond in the thread and the thread will be updated!
  9. Hi, I'm starting my journey in the build process. What will the purpose of this printer for start : I'm producing litophanes on 4 printers (well, 3 actully, the 4th is under modification :D) These litophanes take a hell of time to be printed (3 to 4 days for the biggest 20cm diameter ones) So I want to speed up a little bit the process without loosing quality. Second purpose, I'm also doing maps of the moon 600x450 mm. having a bigger plate will enhance quality ( less joints to fill !) MARE IRIS I baught a FYSETC kit : https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005004544503501.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.4.73d67d56WGdZP9&gatewayAdapt=glo2fra Purple she will be (ship from spain, 4 days delivery to France) I jumped on this kit before knowing that FYSETC have had a ... peculiar behavior respect to the VORON project and team. sorry for that. I was looking tat LDO kit but 500€ difference is a HUGE gap (30% more whaaaaat ?!) I will use a rapido HF hotend as several people adised me, Klipper (never used it but having a VORON without klipper is like having a Ferrari without fuel no ?) I'm focusing on the preparation now : What to print, how much filament, how to organize the mess. here's how I proceeded : Download the stl on the github : https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2/releases/tag/V2.4r2 There is a shit load (sorry, language...) of pieces to print right now I see that I will need 242 hours of printing and 1.8kg of ABS. I have so decided to print EVERYTHING (or change my mind) in same ABS color : Purple (https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B01AE9EQJ2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) I have created a google sheet to have more visibility : https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1wKTEwpUDCoE5RdBIAZ99yWagr5PqbSOThR42P0DKqDA/edit?usp=sharing This is 19 plates, placed in 19 plastic bags to get things easier I have 2 prusa MK3S, it will be a full week of printing. (if everything goes well my dear, if everything goes well...) I havn't started to print, I need to finish a prusa box before... (https://www.printer-box.com/fr/) I will have to clean and treat the linear rails also as per this video from Alex Kenis : I have alrerady treated linear rails for my "ender3", unmounting the carriage is NOT simple and I don't do it anymore. So here's my process: - wash linear rails + carriage with Alccol isopropyl 99% - flush the carriage with WD 40 (flush in the little hole of the carriage) - apply grease (SUPER LUBE : https://www.amazon.fr/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI) on linear rails and in the ball way of the carriage Questions : - Right now I think it's a huge project to print, I can't stop thinking I'm printing to much pieces. Of course it's much more than the PIF programs gives you, I think maybe people prints just the necessary parts then print the rest on the Voron itself but it should be a pain to rebuild everything no ? - I'm also thinking to several stuff : I'm not an inexperienced maker, and I will go for taptaptap stuff and ADXL345. Several people told me to start basic and upgrdade AFTER. isn't it a pain to modifiy AFTER when you know you will go for a mod ? *************************************************************************** EDIT : Here's the link to my Voron printed part check list : https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1fp3H7S3F8znif39BxnOTzqTZ4fQqCVs-TIW24X1bEUU/edit#gid=0 I'm updating this version along the way. when I see pieces that are no longer in the official STl repository, I remove it.
  10. Have had my MK3s for a couple years now and while waiting for their next product decided to try my hand at a Vorn, just couldn't pass up the opportunity after seeing so many videos demonstrating the print quality and the speed... oh the speed. Chose the Trident mainly because I saw someone was tinkering with idex. Did a lot of looking (searching) for kits and ended up ordering the kit from Fabreeko, communication before even considering the purchase was awesome and very refreshing... hopefully the rest of the Voron community is just as nice. No experience printing ABS on my current printer so decided to order printed parts, this in itself was an experience because the options on the Trident are wide and I had no idea what "configuration" I needed to order for the printed parts (direct drive vs bowden, CW1 or CW2, AB or SB, PCB, control board... you know the drill. Luckily this is one of the areas where Fabreeko shined and basically listed out what options I needed to select. Started watching build videos on the day I ordered, initial thought was WTH am I doing, but after revisiting videos the picture got much clearer. Have had printer kit for a week-ish now so built the frame and started loading software on my raspberri pi. Did I say I built the frame? Did I say how I love the blind joints? I'm glad I built the frame before getting printed parts or I feel I would have rushed things a bit... those darn blind joints are a PITA.... get things to what appear to be just right, tighten it down and crap.. it shifted. Loosen a bit, get things re-aligned, tighten down... crap... it shifted. I probably revisited the frame 4 times over a week's time, but the result is nice. I keep having dreams (not really) of whether or not my screws are tight enough for the long hall and have to catch myself periodically to not touch it.... so we'll see how long I can last. Printed parts are supposed to be in tomorrow so this weekend will be a fun one. Didn't take many pics initially, but here is a taste.
  11. First build and I must say I'm pretty darned impressed with the Formbot kit. I only had a few issues with the kit. The supplied probe was for the older versions and with the r2 the probe sits level with the nozzle. No power wire supplied for the exhaust fan. One of the BTT TMC2209 quit working while tuning the printer for the first time but thats not really a Formbot issue. Other then that its been great... Lots of extra hardware and I even got lucky with a Raspberry pi4! I'll post some more pics as I finish things up a bit.
  12. My first Voron build will be a V2.4 with a spider, after pricing from the build-guide for separate (but higher quality parts) - I chose to try the Fystetc Kit. Since I have not see many reviews of this vendor's kit I thought it would be helpful to the community to show the parts and the "unboxing" On June 30, 2021, I order a 350mm "PreSale" Fysetc Voron from Aliexpress, It delivered in 3 packages on August 4, 2021, or 36 days from order to delivery in Ohio. Below is a gallery of the contents of the kit. For some reason they sent a second heating pad separate from everything else and it is pictured separately. I will be creating a build dairy to follow along step by step. If there are any questions on the Kit itself I would be more than glad to answer them! A few initial take aways... Spider 1.0 baord (not 1.1) Appears to be legit Gates Belts Appears to have a genuine MeanWell power supply, but it does come from China, so who knows. Screws/bolts are all covered in oil, standard Chinese fare. HotEnd is a clone (obviously) RaspPi seems legit as well. Images in the gallery have Package "Letters" for identification, these were written by me to help keep track of parts and location, Additionally it give an easy way to point out or find parts for any additional discussion on this TeamFDM community.
  • Create New...