Search the Community

Hi all Setup Infos: voron 2.4 r2 350mm, stealthburner cw2, vitali cnc aluminium tap, phaetus dragon sf/st hotend, fully enclosed (no exhaust, as I have no space behind the printer, ptfetube goes out a hole in the top panel). printing esun abs+ @ 163C/90C (temp tower calibrated) Ever since I have upgraded from Afterburner to Stealthburner I have had issues with underextrusion. It took me quite a while to realize what it was though. For the longest time I thought it was an issue with filament printing temperature or the roll of filament itself(ABS+ White). After finally switching to a "known good" roll of filament (ABS+ Black) in which I had printed the parts for the Stealthburner upgrade, I started realizing its underextrusion, likely caused by the extruder. So I started measuring the maximum flow rate until which I see "dropped" filament. CW2 never "clicks" or misses steps for me, it simply slips on the filament (even with maximum squish and thingymagic very deep/low). I rebuilt the CW2 twice, once with new parts, new motor (LDO-36STH17-0354AHG). But I had to tighten the tensioning screw all the way down in the first rebuilld, in order for the filament to have a firm hold. I have ordered the 20mm version as well, but I think the 17mm should work, as the other two versions linked on the official Voron Sourcing guide are 100% 17mm motors! Then again, when you google around, all shops I've found that sell CW2 Kits ship the 20mm version? After the second rebuild with fresh parts (printed very slow to make sure I have no underextrusion), it seemed I could finally get 12mm3/s (not quite 15mm3/s but acceptable). Also this time the tension screw was more "reasonable" to have a firm grip on the filament, and even the thingymagic was not completely screwed in! note: I followed both videos, regarding meshing and screw adjustments in both CW2 rebuilds! BUT already on the second print, I started seeing the same old underextrusion again! This time though I was lucky enough to witness it live, something I was not able to beforehand for weeks! check attachment for this state. After pausing the print, I realized there was: 1. no nozzle/hotend clog (easy to push through by hand) 2. filament was not stuck on spool or whatever 3. filament was slipping in CW2 all of a sudden So I had to tighten the screw all the way to in order for it to not slip. (yes I would extrude parts again to make the sure filament was not ground down) Not sure how to eliminate this issue, as it seems I am not able to build a CW2 working for more than ~10 hours Checklist: - follow both youtube videos for meshing/thingymagic adjustment - extruder Motor Current on 0.3a could it be that the filament gets too soft from the chamber temp so it slips? The extruder motor sure gets hot, so maybe the gears also get hotter? Not sure how I would combat that though... Thanks a lot in advance for your inputs on what I might need to check/improve!

Hello together! hmm, interesting thing happened to me last night, i started an 8 hour print and went to bed, in the morning I had to see a failure nearly at the end of print.. grrrrr, no filament was fed to the hotend, lots of meters fila lost for a simple failure: The axle of the drivegear counterwheel (the one with the bearings inside) went out of the guidler sideways, so no grip and no feeding.... Did this happen to anyone else here? To avoid this I've modified both guidlers with a small stop so the axle can't move out anymore. I also changed to a bondtech-gearset as the one delivered with the formbot kit is.... how to say.... not the yellow from the egg, Bondtech looks much more better in regards of fila grip. cheers, Wick

Inspired by the LGX lite Mount for the Stealthburner, I really liked the possibility to use a UM2 clip to lock your bowden tube. https://github.com/Eytecz/LGX_Lite_Stealthburner_CW2_style_mount (images and STEP files there) I like the Stealthburner, but I really dont like inserting filament, pushing a bit too hard and pushing out the bowden tube... So, I thought, can I make this work on the original CW2 for Stealthburner? You need to know that I dont do 3d designing, my skills are from a 3 year old, but it doesn't mean its a bad idea... (I hope) So I started cutting, adding, printing, testing... fitting.. and came to this... first Alpha, then Apha2 or maybe Beta.. whatever.. Because the tube entry is now wider, it sticks out a bit, so had to shave of a bit from the Guidler, yet, doesnt have any negative effect and you almost cant see it. On the side its still full width, so you cant see any change looking at the Stealthburner form the front. Yet... big benefit of using the UM2 clip, I hope someone with Fusion skills or whatever picks this up and makes a good design, yet all tested and works from this STL's. [a]_guidler_b.UM2-Beta.stl main_body.UM2-Beta.stl