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18 hours ago, atrushing said:

I don't want to keep an unusable file up any longer than necessary. The sooner I can fix it, the fewer people end up with their toolhead falling off 😟

Because we've all seen that if the front falls off, you're gonna have a bad time. 😆

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anyone had any peoblems with fan blowing to much?. i get heater error in klipper after changing to this toolhead. so im vondering if the hotend fan is possibly blowing to much air down 

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8 hours ago, mrpaddez said:

anyone had any peoblems with fan blowing to much?. i get heater error in klipper after changing to this toolhead. so im vondering if the hotend fan is possibly blowing to much air down 

I haven't had any problems even when running the part cooling fans at 95% for PLA. Which hotend are you using?

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5 hours ago, mrpaddez said:

Im using dragon hf. One more question. Where did you hook the 5v cooling fan up? So its controllable

There shouldn't be any problem with the part cooling affecting the Dragon. I have had a thermistor with loose crimps so it didn't give a reliable signal.

For the hotend fan, you can pick up 5V from the Z-probe or the TFT connection depending on which board you're using. The fan ports are normally switched on the ground line so it doesn't matter so much which positive voltage you use as long as it can provide enough current. I have highlighted the V0.1 recommended 5V fan connection below.

2023-01-02-002109_1920x1080_scrot.thumb.png.8ab9368ef79f84a58872447acbf88947.png

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would be SUPER cool if it was compatible with umbilical. This toolhead is just waaayyy cooler than the standard mini afterburner in all ways.

Edited by Imagine_Tables
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16 hours ago, Imagine_Tables said:

would be SUPER cool if it was compatible with umbilical. This toolhead is just waaayyy cooler than the standard mini afterburner in all ways.

The V0-Unbilical-Plus has a mount for the LGX Lite that has the same hole spacing as the original Umbilical mod and just needs 17mm spacers to attach on the back. It fits the Mini SB fine except that is has a collision with the cable door.

The question is, how important is it to use the cable door with the umbilical mod?

2023-01-07-103808_1920x1054_scrot.thumb.png.8c63d5f57369f6e9edd015485a1146da.png

I noticed that the above link doesn't have the LGX Lite version so here is a link to the github page where I found the file shown in green above.

Edited by atrushing
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This is so close to perfection!  🙂

I have a VolcoMosq, which uses the same Mosquito heatsink/radiator and heatbreak.  However, it adds a longer Volcano nozzle in a longer heaterblock.

Typical mods we have to do is add 8.5mm to the length of the cooling vents.

However, as I open the Blender file (finally, I get to try out my CAD skills in blender!), I do not see anything related to Mosquito mounts.

Maybe you haven't pushed up a more recent Blender file?  🙂

Also, if I may ask, could you lengthen/stretch the Mosquito version's part cooling ducts another 8.5mm for the VolcoMosq?  That would allow me to directly print it!  I've attached a few pics so you can have an idea of how the VolcoMosq

Thank you!

https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/872179761215057930/977816272299503637/unknown-5.png

https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/872179761215057930/1063799706918064148/image.png?width=676&height=640

Edited by eduncan911
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10 hours ago, eduncan911 said:

Typical mods we have to do is add 8.5mm to the length of the cooling vents.

Sounds like its length is the same as the Rapido UHF. Stretching the ducts is a solution I had never thought about but it would allow two more hotends to fit the Mini Stealth (while loosing a bit of Z travel).

2023-01-28-101732_1920x1054_scrot.thumb.png.441ed603f7c8bffb7978382849b7e01e.png

I should be able to add them to the downloads section soon.

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Awesome! Yeah, us "volcano" users are fully aware of the Z we loose with them.  LOL

I actually have the BoxZero mod on my V0 F-Zero, so I'm able to run 220mm MGN7H - my Z is about 200 right now.  Loosing another 8.5mm is just part of the game (until I get 250mm mgh7h!).

Thank you again!

Btw, mind if I pick your brain about Blender?  You can ping me on Discord as well, as eduncan911 on the Voron discord servers.

I still haven't jumped onto the Blender CAD train, as I deal a lot with STEP files given to me, and I hand back as STEP files.  As I understand it, there's no way to go from Blender back to STEP in any way with large assemblies (besides standard mesh->parametric model PITA).

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Also, something else.  Now with the release of the official Voron Mini Strealthburner, did you notice they have moved to a 3010 hotend fan?  It makes 24V and fan selections much easier.

Have you considered stuffing the 3010 in the front?  🙂

They have also changed the air ducting to be optimized like the Stealthburner is for the cross flow cancellation issue (increases cooling by 4x), according to CFD.

Edited by eduncan911
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6 hours ago, eduncan911 said:

Btw, mind if I pick your brain about Blender?  You can ping me on Discord as well, as eduncan911 on the Voron discord servers.

I still haven't jumped onto the Blender CAD train, as I deal a lot with STEP files given to me, and I hand back as STEP files.  As I understand it, there's no way to go from Blender back to STEP in any way with large assemblies (besides standard mesh->parametric model PITA).

Yeah, going from mesh to step is not any fun even with individual parts..

I am still learning my way through Blender, I usually do things the hard way and I wish I had the time to properly learn Blender and some of the addons. Some of the Blender YouTubers are crazy quick at modeling things. If you have Blender questions I can try to help but I'm not on Discord yet.

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6 hours ago, eduncan911 said:

Have you considered stuffing the 3010 in the front?

I have looked into it and there should be enough room but then a 3007 fan would be a loose fit. I would like to find a way to use either fan without having to maintain two separate versions of the shroud.

6 hours ago, eduncan911 said:

They have also changed the air ducting to be optimized like the Stealthburner is for the cross flow cancellation issue (increases cooling by 4x), according to CFD.

I am working on an update to the Mini Stealth that should improve the cooling performance slightly. While I am impressed with the Voron team's CFD work, I have a hard time believing that anything could create a 4x improvement while still using the same blowers.

2023-01-28-224541_1920x1080_scrot_.thumb.png.5a173aee46281f4daeeb369cc03f761d.png

With my design, I am relying on the fact that the left blower is pushing more air behind the nozzle and the right blower is pushing more air in front of the nozzle.

2023-01-28-223512_1920x1054_scrot.thumb.png.b997bba6185e0ba65e1a8f9a60ec3b83.png

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7 hours ago, eduncan911 said:

I'm able to run 220mm MGN7H - my Z is about 200 right now.

I have recently started looking into stretching my V0.1 so it could print some plane parts out of LW PLA or LW ASA. 220mm in Z would be great.

2023-01-28-233002_1920x1054_scrot.thumb.png.6061b34a8f0bef6961307e196c498b60.png

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3 hours ago, atrushing said:

I am working on an update to the Mini Stealth that should improve the cooling performance slightly. While I am impressed with the Voron team's CFD work, I have a hard time believing that anything could create a 4x improvement while still using the same blowers.

It's about 1/2 way through the announcement video.  Basically, with the Afterburner, when the two air streams meet at the nozzle, they essentially cancelled each other out.  IIRC, it was a reading of like 0.8 to 1.0 - out of like 20 (whatever unit of measurement they were using).

The "4x" claim comes from, "static pressure is proportional to the square of the rotational speed."  By creating a slight vortex with a slight difference in the angles (there is actually 3 "angled walls" to change the airflow directions at the exit ports) increases that number to around 2.0 or so now.  Still 10x less than the velocity coming out of the nozzle. 

Now that the airspeed has doubled, that quadruples the static pressure.  Hence, the "4x" claim.  They had some decent CFD screenshots.

And since I've stretched their Stealthburner proper, and I've seen those exit ports and multiple angles.

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2 hours ago, atrushing said:

I have recently started looking into stretching my V0.1 so it could print some plane parts out of LW PLA or LW ASA. 220mm in Z would be great.

 

Technically, I didn't have to print any of the BoxZero parts as my F-Zero was already boxed.  I just extended my 200mm uppers by 100mm - so they are now 300mm.   You can also just get 300mm 1515 extrusions.

https://github.com/zruncho3d/BoxZero

(Ps, I can't figure out how to embed an image here - it just wants to make them a link)

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8 hours ago, eduncan911 said:

It's about 1/2 way through the announcement video.  Basically, with the Afterburner, when the two air streams meet at the nozzle, they essentially cancelled each other out. 

I just went back through the V0.2 release video and didn't see any CFD shots. They mentioned BadNoob doing CFD but the only quantitative information they gave was the following quote.

"That actually gains us, I believe it was about, 4 or 5 m/sec increase in speed for the air right at the nozzle tip from the old setup."

The section where they discuss the cooling capabilities of the Mini Stealthburner starts at 59:00

 

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3 minutes ago, eduncan911 said:

Oh my, sorry about you spending all that time... I meant the original Stealthburner announcement like last summer.

Ah, that makes more sense. No worries, I was able to skip my through it pretty quick and I don't mind a little research. The original Stealthburner has a lot more room to guide the air before the outlet but the Minis require a sharper turn in airflow. The stretched VolcoMosq and Rapido UHF might allow some more flow manipulation but I don't have the time to pursue that level of design.

I think I will have someone on Fiver do a CFD workup on the current design so we can have a better idea of how the cooling performs on the Mini Stealth.

I will be uploading the new shrouds directly. Then I get to work them up for the other Mini Stealth variants.

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On 1/27/2023 at 10:55 PM, eduncan911 said:

However, as I open the Blender file (finally, I get to try out my CAD skills in blender!), I do not see anything related to Mosquito mounts.

Maybe you haven't pushed up a more recent Blender file?

Sorry, I missed this part. The .blend file does need to be updated.

Right now my working file is a little busy so I will have to export a cleaned up version specifically for the LGX.

2023-01-29-171937_1920x1054_scrot.thumb.png.c3cc9ec0432477afbf01dac8e63bc7f3.png

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This all looks great man!  Thank you so much!

Could I make a suggestion to the stretched versions?

The center open space, in front of the heatsink: could you raise it back up the normal opening height of the standard models?

Looking at your model a d pics, it looks to be dead space as well.

It would really show off our long heater socks/blocks and the logos we have on them.

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Just wanted to echo would love the 3010 HE fan mode,  could you just put a printed shim in front if you wanted to use the 3007?  3010 has so many more choices with better flow than 3007!

Edited by kledbetter
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4 hours ago, kledbetter said:

Just wanted to echo would love the 3010 HE fan mode,  could you just put a printed shim in front if you wanted to use the 3007?  3010 has so many more choices with better flow than 3007!

That would be a good idea but the way the fan is held in place means that the 3007 fan would barely be supported when using the spacer. Extending the bottom shelf part would make it hard to tilt the fan into position. Plus, I think that having the fan recessed so far back from the front would look a little strange.

2023-02-02-093156_1920x1054_scrot.thumb.png.b0af82abddf18a08b1df3393c533fa9a.png

I think I can adjust the top section and maybe use a break-off part that would allow the 3010 fan to fit. It will take a little while because I will have to modify the geometry on at least 35 different toolheads but I am working on it.

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10 hours ago, eduncan911 said:

The center open space, in front of the heatsink: could you raise it back up the normal opening height of the standard models?

Looking at your model and pics, it looks to be dead space as well.

It would really show off our long heater socks/blocks and the logos we have on them.

So here are three choices. Left (original), center or right? Which one is best?

2023-02-02-100747_1920x1054_scrot.thumb.png.e02e6d79f8719a0b71e8055ac90bb84b.png

Edited by atrushing
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