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Printable Voron User Mods

Voron User Mods, or "UserMods", are a collection of community created and Team FDM curated modification for Voron Printers. All of these mods are available on the VoronUsers Github repo and unless otherwise specified follow the Voron communities GPL3.0 Licensing. Use any Mods at your own risk, if you make modification please share them on the VoronUsers repo.

Mod Authors: Have a Voron mod? Upload it at TeamFDM.com and let us know you're the author. We will ensure you can update and curate your files for more feedback! Please include tags for what Voron, or extruder your mod is compatible with. 

652 files

  1. Deck Panel Backpack

    Changes
    19.10.2020 Updated version with some more space between SKR Board and PSU and some hooks for zipties Overview
    This mod brings in a backpack for the V0 Deck Panel.
    Imagine you have gotten a deck panel containing a nice print. Surely you don't want to "destroy" this nice print with holes and screws for attaching controller and PSU.
    This mod is a modification of Deck_Panel_inserts_logo and thus is designed for the same hardware:
    PSU: Meanwell LRS-100-24 MCU: BTT SKR Mini E3 1.2 (tested with 2.0) The backpack can be sticked (e.g. with VHB) against the back of your panel. For mounting the hardware you don't need any standoffs, instead you can use the same heat inserts as for the top head or pocketwatch (M3x5x4).
    Below the SKR are some hooks for attaching zipties.
    Fusion 360 and Step file is included to ease your own modifications.

    5 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  2. V0 Bowden Fence

    Overview
    A little "fence" to hold the tubes away from the belts. Clipmount so no further nuts in extrusions are needed.
    Print one of the clips (either LDO or Makerbeam) together with the BowdenFence.stl Don't rotate the clips, otherwise they may break upon inserting into the extrusion. They need to be orientated like in the picture
    Attach a the clip into the bowdenfence piece with a short M2 self-tapping screw.

    20 downloads

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    0 comments

    Submitted

  3. Microswitch POD with Connector

    This is a simple modification to the microswitch pod to allow the installation of a JST-XH 4-pin connector.
    JST-XH 4-pin connector part number B4B-XH-A(LF)(SN) slides into the hole and there's a small lip to keep it sliding all the way thru.
    Depending on your tolerances it may be tight enough as is, or you may have to use a bit of CA glue. You may need to clean up the inside of the slot a bit using a utility knife to get the JST in, as it does involve bridging.
    I also slightly increased the size of the screw holes from 1.5mm to 1.7mm as I was having a hard time getting mine screwed down.

    27 downloads

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    0 comments

    Submitted

  4. Horizontal Spool Holder

    Based on the stock spool holder, this mod allows you to mount the spool holder to the horizontal top extrusions, rather than the vertical ones, to allow you to choose between more than just the front or back of the printer. It's sized to fit a KVP 5lb spool or similar, with a 100mm wide area for the spool to sit in. Just like the stock holder, it uses 4mm PTFE tubing to give the spool a nice smooth surface to ride on.
    BOM:
    2 x M3 T-Nuts
    1 x M3x12 SHCS
    1 x M3x8 SHCS
    1 x Length of PTFE Tubing (Approx 110mm)
    To install, first put two M3 T-Nuts into the horizontal extrusion, one on the top and one on the side. Then, put the M3x12 SHCS through the top hole of the holder, and screw it down loosely into the T-Nut. Then, after making sure the side hole is aligned, screw the M3x8 SHCS into the other T-Nut. This screw is technically not required, but does improve strength, as well as keep the holder pointed straight out. Without this screw, the holder will tilt up slightly without the weight of a spool. Far from a deal breaker, but I would generally suggest using both screws.
    This part prints without supports and only takes around an hour or less to print with moderate print speeds. Infill isn't critical but I would use at least 3 perimeters and 5 top/bottom layers.

    233 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    1 comment

    Submitted

  5. V0 DC Inlet

    Adds a skirt-mounted inlet and switch for an external DC power supply, to allow using a DC bed. Options are provided for rear or side mounting.
    BOM
    Kycon KPJX-PM-4S connector (Digi-Key) Mean Well GST160A24-R7B power supply (Digi-Key) Power switch, 20mm round, rated for at least 7A at 24VDC (Digi-Key) 2x quick disconnect terminal for power switch (Digi-Key) 24V 60W bed heater (Keenovo) 4x M2x10 self tapping screw (For rear skirt only) 4x M3x6 BHCS + 4x M3 hex nut With a 24V bed the SSR is not used, and the bed heater is directly connected to the bed heater output on the controller. I suggest using a SKR Mini E3 V2.0, which can control 2 heaters and 2 fans (unlike V1.2, which has only 3 controllable outputs).
    Instructions
    For rear mounting, print both skirt_rear files and inlet_bracket.stl. Mirror the skirt pieces if you want the inlet on the right side. Each piece mounts to the rear vertical extrusions with two M3x6 screws. The rear deck panel must be removed. Temporarily remove the rear panel and rear feet to access the extrusion slots.
    For side mounting, print skirt_side_with_inlet.stl and inlet_bracket.stl. It replaces an existing skirt piece; mirror it in your slicer if desired.
    Inlet and switch mounting steps are shown below. It is suggested to solder wires to the inlet before assembly. Pay particular attention to the order of the inlet pins, and confirm with a multimeter.

    6 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  6. Magnetic Hotend Fan Cover for Afterburner

    This replaces the screw-mounted hotend fan cover with one that is held by magnets, for a clean front face and easier access to the toolhead. Works with an unmodified toolhead.
    Inspired by ModCables101's magnet mod.
    Required hardware
    6x3mm round magnet (2x) M3x8 SHCS — steel, not stainless (2x) Instructions
    Press the magnets into the new cover. Screw the M3x8 screws into the toolhead until they bottom out; the heads should protrude 4mm from the surface.

    43 downloads

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    0 comments

    Submitted

  7. Dial Test Indicator Mount for Afterburner

    This replaces the Afterburner toolhead with a dovetail mount for a dial test indicator (such as a Mitutoyo 513-404, which this was modelled on). The indicator point is ideally located at the same position as the nozzle (the precise Y position may vary depending on the length of the tip). There is a protrusion where the nozzle would be located, so that Z homing can be done normally as though a nozzle were present.
    This can be used, for instance, to verify whether a mesh reflects the true form of the bed surface: sweeping the bed with the mesh enabled would ideally show no movement on the indicator.
    Required hardware
    M3x8 SHCS (4x) M3 hex nut (2x)

    42 downloads

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    0 comments

    Submitted

  8. MGN12 X axis

    This replaces the dual MGN9H rails on the V2.4 X axis with a single MGN12H rail. The belt is directly clamped to the MGN12 block by the carriage.
    The stock PL-08N probe might be too long to fit. Recommended alternatives are listed below.
    As an option, the x_carriage_frame_right_endstop.stl allows mounting the X endstop switch on the carriage, which is useful on an umbilical cable setup.
    Thanks to joshmurrah, hartk, and everyone else who helped out in one way or another.
    Required hardware
    In addition to things you can reuse from the stock build, these items are required:
    1x MGN12 linear rail with MGN12H carriage (same length as the original MGN9 rails) 1x M3x40 SHCS 4x M3x8 BHCS (or 2x BHCS and 2x SHCS) Recommended probes:
    Omron TL-Q5MC2 (use M3x25 or M3x30 screws) Panasonic GL-18HB/18HLB (use M3x25 or M3x30 screws) Panasonic GX-H15B/HL15B (use the 9mm probe bracket, and M3x16 or M3x20 screws) Instructions
    Assembly is similar to stock V2.4, see the assembly images below.
    The belts are clamped between the carriage and the MGN12H block. This procedure worked for me:
    Loosely fasten the carriage to the MGN12H block using the M3x8 screws. Push the belts in on the left side, until they are just visible in the middle. Tighten the screws on the left side a little bit, to secure the belt ends. Push the belts in on the right side as far as you can, and pull them out through the middle. Tighten all screws, while making sure that all belts are firmly held in the clamp teeth. You may wrap the extra length of belt around the probe cable, as in the photo below. Please check the Z endstop position after assembly as it may have changed slightly.
     
    Changelog
    2021-03-28
    Added option for mounting X endstop on the carriage. Updated readme to note that stock PL-08N probes might fit. 2021-03-21
    Initial release

    471 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    2 comments

    Updated

  9. Voron 2.x IKEA Dioder Led Mount

    Overview
    Voron 2.x IKEA Dioder Led Mount for the DIODER single and multi colour LED Strip sold by IKEA.
    Description
    This is an improved version of the model of randommen96 for the IKEA Dioder LED strip.
    It comes with a wider gap so it nicely fits the metal mounting brackets supplied with the Dioder. Additionally the strip can be mounted either with VHB tape or an M3x8 BHCS screw. The LED shines inwards in an angle of 70°. Step file is included to ease your own modifications.

    4 downloads

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    0 comments

    Submitted

  10. BTT PITFT50 v2 Mount

    This work is based on sttts's Waveshare 5.5inch mount. BTT PITFT50 v2 has a different layout than v1, featuring a brightness thumbwheel, an orientation switch and a JST XH port for unknown function. This design provide accessibility to the thumbwheel and switch.
     
    BOM
    4x M3x6mm 4x M2.5x4mm (included in the BTT PITFT50 v2) 500mm ~ 600mm Ribbon Flat Cable for Raspberry Pi Camera (depends on the position of the Raspberry Pi. The included one is too short) Instructions
    Please use the mount in sttts's mods to amount this to the frame. No re-print of skirts is required!
    Print Settings
    Standard Voron recommended print settings

    611 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    8 comments

    Submitted

  11. V0 PL05N2 Mount

    Mount for PL05N2 Sensor.
    Designed for this model, but others may fit. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32805983692.html
    Print 1 of each STL.
    Requires 8 x 6mmx3mm Round Neodymium Magnets.
    This is designed for temporary installation to level bed and build bedmesh.

    0 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  12. V0 LED Mount

    Led holder for WS2812 type LED strings, includes channel for data line to loop back for second strip.
    Includes additional print support (between led strip retainers), which needs to be removed before use. Mounts on top of the top extrusion, using 2 M3 bolts per strip, two strips required per side, (so they can be printed on V0). It does not interfere with the top hat.

    17 downloads

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    0 comments

    Submitted

  13. Filament Detection

    Voron themed filament detection.
    I fancied making my own simple filament detection module, using spares from my Voron V0 build, and here it is..
    BOM
    4x M3 Nut 4x M3x6 bolt (SH/BH) 2x M2x10 Self Tapping Screws 1x Omron Mouse Button - Micro Switch Bowden tube can be inserted to guide the filament in to the module, you might need to fettle this, as it maybe a bit tight and restrict the filament movement. There should be very little friction if all goes well.
    The module works in either direction, it should be mounted away from the extrusion motor, as klipper buffers commands, so the further from the motor the better.
    I printed with 0.4mm nozzle 0.2mm layer height, no supports need.
    Print one of each STL.

    9 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  14. Skirt Mount for V0 for Analog Timer

    Skirt mount for V0, to allow mounting of analog timer.
    Mounts in back/right position.
    Fits https://www.aliexpress.com/item/799301917.html, or similar.

    1 download

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  15. Misaligned Rail Tools

    Overview
    In the initial Afterburner beta, I found that I had an inconsistent first layer height which I could not fix with bed_mesh or QGL. I suspected a twisted x extrusion. I found it is possible to very slightly misalign the x rails to produce an apparent extrusion twist, and I was able to fix it using simple tools and a few printed parts.
    The Dozuki article goes into a lot more detail, but here you will find the broad strokes and the tools I used.
    I take no responsibility for anything happening to you, your printer, or anything else should you follow what I did.
    The Issue

    This diagram shows what I think is going on. In the AB beta, you align and install the front rail, then align the bottom rail to it. If the front rail is slightly misaligned higher on the left/lower on the right (black arrows), it will pull up on the carriage (blue arrow pointing up) when moved to the left (green arrow). The bottom rail is constrained in that direction, so it moves forward(red arrow).
    It is the combination of the blue and red arrows which cause the apparent twist, tilting the carriage away from the build plane. Quad_Gantry_Level can and does correct for a single rail misalign (such as on a V2.2) but once there are 2 rails perpendicular to each other, they impart twist which QGL cannot fix.
    From my measurements I was approx. 0.07mm higher on left than on the right. Over the length of the rail, this can impart a twist of approx 0.4 degrees. At the nozzle I had a variance of .12mm in layer height over approx. 150mm
    Requirements
    metal ruler/light Dial indicator (1 inch travel, .001 resolution) Printed Dial Indicator adapter (this mod) Printed adjuster assembly (this mod) If you do not have a dial indicator it may be possible to test for this using a z-height/paper gauge test. in this case you won't need the dial indicator stl, just the adjuster stls
    Detection
    The Dozuki article has the detail here, but the general idea is to use either a dial indicator or paper test the nozzle height at different x locations. Since we are at QGL, and assuming the bed is flat, there should be little measured change.
    The Fix (Dangerous)
    Assemble the "adjuster" like so:

    DO NOT INSTALL YET DANGER! If you install this and then do a home, bad things will happen as the adjuster will hit the stepper long before the y switch activates. be very very careful when this is installed.

    16 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  16. Voron 2.2-2.4 Precision A/B Drive System

    Overview
    This is actually 2 mods in one. The first mod increases resolution and torque of the AB drives. The second mod inverts and strenghtens the ab drive frames. you can do either mod independently, they do not rely on each other. If you are going to do them both, do them at the same time as they both require gantry disassembly.
    IMPORTANT NOTE for 2.4: This mod was designed to fit with the 2.2 sized extrusions. For a Voron 2.2 the back extrusion measures 40 mm shorter than the back extrusion in a Voron 2.4. You can do this mod on a 2.4, but you will have to either buy a new extrusion which is shorter or cut the one you have. I suggest buying a new one, so you can go back to the 2.4 drives at will.
    Drive reduction
    In the Voron 2.2, the A and B drives have a closed belt that drives the driveshaft which powers the xy gantry movement. In the spec 2.2, all 3 pulleys are 20T pulleys. This means the torque at the open belt is equal to the torque at the stepper motor, and the step size is (2mm pitch * 20 Teeth)/(200 steps * 16 microsteps)=0.0125 mm/microsteps
    In this mod we are replacing 2 of these pulleys with 16 tooth pulleys. We replace the one on the stepper and the one that drives the open belt. This gives us a step size of (2mm*16)/250 steps *16 micro)0.008 mm/step the 16:20:16 reduction gear increases the torque at normal print speeds. This affect tapers off at higher speeds because our stepper is running at a higher RPM compared to the spec drive.
    Frame strengthening and inverting.
    I took this opportunity to also strengthen the ab drive frames which had begin to crack at the extrusions on my 2.2. I also inverted the drives to put the spinny bits in view.
    Disclaimer: It is your printer. If you do this and something breaks, it is fully your responsibility. I take no responsibility.
    Materials needed
    Spec Voron 2.2 or 2.4 4 GT2 16T pulleys 6mm wide, 5mm bore 4 new printed frame parts (this mod) (for 2.4 only) a new extrusion 40 mm shorter than your back extrusion Procedure:
    Print the new frames at Voron print specifications (ABS, 40% 0.2 layer height) Remove the old AB drives and disassemble Assemble using the new frames and 16T gears as shown Modify ab stepsize in firmware Recommission printer Assembly
    It is important to get the 16 tooth gears and the 20 tooth gears in the right locations. The stepper and the gear that contacts the open belt on the driveshaft are 16 tooth. The gear connecting the closed 110 mm loop to the shaft is still a 20 tooth.
    Firmware (klipper)
    In your printer.cfg you must make this change: [stepper_x] ... step_distance: 0.008 ##for gear reduction drive
    ... [stepper_y] ... step_distance: 0.008 ##for gear reduction drive
    I cannot recall if you have to reverse the direction pins or not. in my current working config, they are reversed. [stepper_x] ... dir_pin: !P2.6 #this is for a skr 1.4 pro using 2209 drivers. your pin and dir may vary
    [stepper_y] ... dir_pin: !P0.20 #this is for a SKR 1.4 pro using 2209 drivers. your pin and dir may vary
    Recommission
    Treat this printer like it's just been built, because it's a new printer. It is very easy to accidentally pull a wire or drop a connection
    Go slowly. Verify the steppers with stepper_buzz. Carefully home the xy. if they move in the wrong direction, stop the printer. Check gantry alignment. Retension the belts. Enjoy!

    48 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  17. Voron 2.4 SKR 1.3/1.4 Mount for DIN Rail

    G'day, another nice thingy from down under. Got non-standard electronics compartment? Some blocks there that don't allow spec placements? Don't have or don't like self-tapping screws? Or are you just up to better wiring and sturdier construction? Alright, Dropbears to rescue. Here comes a rigid bracket for SKR boards, that uses M3 bolts and nuts, and allows mounting along and across the rail. Each bracket needs 2 of rs25_psu_bracket_clip.stl.
    Printing and Plastic
    Standard Voron part printing guidelines to follow: 0.4 nozzle, 0.2 layer height, etc.
    This part is not exposed to any significant heat, so you could probably use even PLA.
    Assembly
    BOM:
    8 x M3 hex nuts 8 x M3x12 SHCS screws Credits
    that russian guy (aeresov#9959) A Team Dropbear Production
     

    35 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    1 comment

    Submitted

  18. Voron 2.4 MeanWell UHP PSU Mount for DIN Rail

    G'day, another nice thingy from down under. MeanWell UHP PSUs are great: nice, slim, compact, mains and DC on opposite sides... Well, but how to mount them on DIN rails? Alright, Dropbears to rescue. Pick an adapter for your UHP (they have different width), print 2 of them and 4 of rs25_psu_bracket_clip.stl.
    Printing and plasic
    Standard Voron part printing guidelines to follow: 0.4 nozzle, 0.2 layer height, etc.
    This part is not exposed to any significant heat, so you could probably use even PLA.
    Assembly
    BOM:
    8 x M3 hex nuts 8 x M3x12 SHCS screws 4 x M3 suare nuts 4 x M3x10 SHCS screws Put square nuts in slide pockets, secure them with screws, then bolt down rs25 brackets, so square nuts are trapped.
    Credits
    that russian guy (aeresov#9959) A Team Dropbear Production
     

    120 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  19. Voron 2.4 Cable Tie Mount for DIN Rail

    G'day, another nice thingy from down under: a simple bracket that allows fixing your cables with standard 3.5mm plastic cable ties in various positions. 4 ties per bracket, 2x2 criss-cross, so you can make bends or straights. The bracket needs 1 of rs25_psu_bracket_clip.stl.
    Printing and Plastic
    Standard Voron part printing guidelines to follow: 0.4 nozzle, 0.2 layer height, etc.
    This part is not exposed to any significant heat, so you could probably use even PLA.
    Assembly
    BOM:
    2 x M3 hex nuts 2 x M3x12 SHCS screws standard 3.5mm cable ties Credits
    that russian guy (aeresov#9959) A Team Dropbear Production

    39 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  20. Voron 2.4 Trianglelab Filament Sensor Bracket

    G'day, another nice thingy from down under. Got TL filament sensor in your pile of parts? Bought it a year ago for 2.1 and too lazy to find a way to mount it so it plays well with spool holder? Upgraded to 2.4 and still have no clue? Alright, ask a mate to hold your beer, this is quick one: just print it and use instead of stock bowen_retainer.stl.
    Printing and Plastic
    Standard Voron part printing guidelines to follow: 0.4 nozzle, 0.2 layer height, etc.
    Any common plastic will do, this is outer part with no heat exposure.
    Well, sure, you can print it in PEEK if you're that guy.
    Assembly
    BOM:
    2 x M3 t-nuts 4 x M3x12 SHCS screws 2 x M3 heat inserts (4mm will do) Bolt your sensor to it, insert your PTFE tube to sensor's exit hole.
    Make Melbourne hipsters proud, do your wiring in braided sleeving and with fancy connectors. And have a flat white when you're done.
    Credits
    that russian guy (aeresov#9959) A Team Dropbear Production

    88 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    1 comment

    Submitted

  21. Relay Mount

    Simple relay-mount for 2x 2 channel relay modules - e.g. for moonraker power plugin.
     
    Mount with two M5x8 screws and T- or hammerhead nuts to normal 2020 extrusions.
    4x or 8x M2x8 self tapping screws to mount the relay module.

    6 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  22. G1 Exhaust Filter Housing

    Exhaust filter housing with the G1-8" thread on the side. Can also simply be printed mirrored to have the fitting on the opposite side

    38 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    1 comment

    Submitted

  23. Corner Panel Clip

    Corner panel clip with an internal cable path, so you can route the cables around the panel and corner.
    I use them to mount 6mm floatglas as top panel with 3mm foam tape

    corner_panel_clip_top_4mm.stl is 4mm and corner_panel_clip_bottom_3_5mm.stl is 3.5mm height,
    so at the end there is 7.5mm space for the panel and foamtape.
     
    Needs 2x M3x12 screews to mount per clip.

    135 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  24. V0 Neopixel Front Bed Mount

    This replaces the stock V0.1 Front Bed Mount, adding a slot for a single Neopixel or Dotstar LED from a standard 10mm strip. There are channels to run the wires stealthily to inside of the bed frame extrusions on either side.
    Instructions
    Print Diffuser_x1 with 100% infill using a transparent or white ABS, textured build surface is a bonus.
    Print Front_Bed_Mount_x1 using standard Voron print settings
    cut a single Neopixel or Dotstar LED from a 10mm strip, and 3 (or 4 for Dotstar) equal lengths of wire, long enough to reach from the front bed mount, under the bed, through the cable chain and all the way to your mainboard.
    insert the LED into the slot on the front of the bed mount, and route the wires through one or both of the channels
    insert the diffuser in the slot in front of the LED, ensure a good friction fit. if necessary, print the diffuser slightly thicker or thinner by scaling it in your slicer.
    Install the new Bed mount, making sure the wires are not pinched by the extrusions, they should run directly into the slot, you can use zip ties to secure it.
    route the wires through the cable chain, and around to wherever your mainboard is mounted.
    mainboard connections and klipper configuration are left as an exercise to the reader.

    111 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  25. Mini Afterburner Strain Relief

    Replaces the stock strain relief on the V0 Mini Afterburner toolhead.
    BOM
    1x M3x6 BHCS 2x M3x30 BHCS 2x M3 Nuts 1x M3 heat-set insert. (3x5x4) Instructions
    Install the M3 heat-set insert into the top of Strain_Relief_Body_x1. Use the M3x6 BHCS to attach the Strain_Relief_Body_Top_x1 to the Strain_Relief_Body_x1 Insert the 2 M3x30 screws from the front of the toolhead, through the motor, Strain_Relief_Spacer_x2 and Strain_Relief_Body_x1 finally securing them with M3 nuts on the back of the strain relief. wires can be routed between the motor and the strain relief, through the recessed area.

    116 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

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