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Found 10 results

  1. Found some here, but shipping to europe is ridiculous.. https://sparta3d.ca/collections/abs-filament/products/sparkle-abs-filament But I love the colors, no idea how it turns out printing though...
  2. Just some reflections on the use of filaments - named or otherwise. Used to print eSun from the start - got to know the filament and the quirks of it. Whether it was PLA, PETG or ABS (and the + variants) Had the printers pretty well tuned in to this. But like all of us - always in search of something better. I also strongly belief in buying local and supporting the local manufacturers. So, I went and invested in locally ROHS compliant filament (and the Australian mark of approval)- won't name the brand. And......... it has been a rocky ride. Some rolls of filament printed without an issue - others - disastrous - extrusion issues, clogging with prints stopping halfway and printing air, etc. There was NO consistency. It seems the filament (same color, same type ) differed from batch to batch. This made it extremely hard to have a consistent slicer profile. Finally, after another "air print" today, I decided to waste a brand new roll of ABS(Black) and un-spool it. What a surprise. The filament diameter varied as much as 0.25mm. So, the roll of 1.75,mm (1kg) had areas of up to 2mm thick - could clearly see the thickening of the filament, and areas as low as 1.5mm. Some parts of the filament looked like it had "blobs " in it. So much for buying local. Have reverted back to e-Sun filament. I know it, I like it, and it prints consistently well. Was going to try some Polymaker (about a 1/3 more expensive than e-Sun) as I heard very good reports on it. Now I am scary boy!
  3. Since I have only seen nylon with glass fibers in black or natural from all the filament suppliers, I was pleasantly surprised that one of my suppliers now has nylon GF in various colors. I ordered samples in orange, red and gray. I printed with the same settings as Nylon Carbon. I'm really excited, it prints well and has the same pleasant surface as nylon carbon, the color comes out beautifully, looks a bit matt, not shiny. I think it's a great thing if you need stable parts but don't like black.
  4. For experienced plastic pushers: Witch brand of nylon (no CF) is printing easier?
  5. RobyOne

    ABS or ASA??

    Hi all, I am wondering if anyone of you have had experience either with ABS and ASA in order to compare both filament and which one you would suggest to print all the parts for your Voron printer. Also the brand is important as I noticed big differencies between different brands. The objective is to give a starting point to whoever want to build the Voron itself from zero, as I am planning to do at the moment. Cheers!
  6. US based maker of specialty PLA & PETG filament.
  7. PushPlastic is a filament manufacturer based in the US.
  8. Version 2021.06.02


    Based on the stock spool holder, this mod allows you to mount the spool holder to the horizontal top extrusions, rather than the vertical ones, to allow you to choose between more than just the front or back of the printer. It's sized to fit a KVP 5lb spool or similar, with a 100mm wide area for the spool to sit in. Just like the stock holder, it uses 4mm PTFE tubing to give the spool a nice smooth surface to ride on. BOM: 2 x M3 T-Nuts 1 x M3x12 SHCS 1 x M3x8 SHCS 1 x Length of PTFE Tubing (Approx 110mm) To install, first put two M3 T-Nuts into the horizontal extrusion, one on the top and one on the side. Then, put the M3x12 SHCS through the top hole of the holder, and screw it down loosely into the T-Nut. Then, after making sure the side hole is aligned, screw the M3x8 SHCS into the other T-Nut. This screw is technically not required, but does improve strength, as well as keep the holder pointed straight out. Without this screw, the holder will tilt up slightly without the weight of a spool. Far from a deal breaker, but I would generally suggest using both screws. This part prints without supports and only takes around an hour or less to print with moderate print speeds. Infill isn't critical but I would use at least 3 perimeters and 5 top/bottom layers.
  9. Version 2021.09.12


    Filament Runout Sensor This mod replaces the stock bowden retainer with one of a similar profile that hides a runout sensor inside. BOM Material Quantity KW10 Microswitch 1 M2x8 SHCS 2 M3x8 SHCS 3 M3 Threaded Inserts 2 M3 Hammerhead T Nut 1 JST 2 OR 3 Pin Housings 1 JST Contacts 2 Glue (CA or Hot) Solder Note: The KW10 microswitch can likely be swapped out for an Omron D2F-5L switch or other equivalents but this hasn't been tested. Optionally, wires could be soldered directly to the microswitch negating the need for the JST terminal. Also two of the M3x8 and the threaded inserts are not required if you do not want to fit a cover over the switch. Assembly Choose the appropriate housing for your printer, either left or right hand (LH or RH) depending on which side you run the reverse bowden to. Print using standard Voron print settings. If you want to use the housing cover use a soldering iron to insert the threaded inserts into the locations as shown above. Insert the switch into the housing with the lever opening facing the wider of the openings on the housing sides. Use the M2x8 to fix it in place. The switch should have clearance to fully open inside. Place the JST terminal inside close to the switch and affixing with glue, bridge the the terminals of the switch and JST with solder in the NO position. Create a cable to connect the switch to your controller board. Fit the cover and attach the sensor to your printer using the M3x8 SHCS and the Hammerhead T Nut. Insert the reverse bowden into the opening on the housing. Klipper Configuration Add the file 'filament_runout.cfg' to your config directory via your GUI and add the line [include filament_runout.cfg] into your 'printer.cfg' file. This configuration assumes the use of dual SKR1.3, you may need to change the pin called out by switch_pin: depending on your setup. If you do not have a M600 macro configured for klipper, change the line pause_on_runout: to true and remove the runout_gcode: section.
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