23 14 2 Details Changelog 0 Questions 664 Comments 3 Reviews 1 Tutorial Support Recommended Comments Prev 22 23 24 25 26 27 Next Page 27 of 27 atrushing 1,070 Posted June 7, 2025 Share Yes, the Mini Stealthburner is the official Voron design and it uses smaller blower fans. The definition of dab is 'to strike or touch lightly' similar to pat or tap. DAB just uses a standard microswitch (about 13x6x7mm). The same type that is used for the X and Y endstops on typical Vorons. You just need to pinch off the metal lever and there is a grub-screw that contacts the small red nub directly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Beardo3D 1 Posted June 14 Share I have been spending the last 2 weeks converting my Voron over from regular sized stealthchanger to the mini. Love the mini! Noticed a few issues. I'm not sure if it was me or what. But I'm running the knomi body. Installed the rigid cores for the orbiter 2. I also have the filament sensors installed. But I had to notch the core in the slicer to get the orbiter to sit flat. The small stepper on the back contacts the ridge. Anyone else notice that or did I do something wrong? Also, I cannot find a decent board mount for the back of the obiter. I switch out my ebb36 tool heads and went with nighthawk36s. I also run the omoron sensor but the board and omoron were touching each other. Ended up having to space out the tool head board. If I'm doing anything wrong and this all fits together, please let me know. I'd like to get this dang printer up and running soon. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... atrushing 1,070 Posted June 14 Share 5 hours ago, Beardo3D said: I have been spending the last 2 weeks converting my Voron over from regular sized stealthchanger to the mini. Love the mini! Noticed a few issues. I'm not sure if it was me or what. But I'm running the knomi body. Installed the rigid cores for the orbiter 2. I also have the filament sensors installed. But I had to notch the core in the slicer to get the orbiter to sit flat. The small stepper on the back contacts the ridge. Anyone else notice that or did I do something wrong? Also, I cannot find a decent board mount for the back of the obiter. I switch out my ebb36 tool heads and went with nighthawk36s. I also run the omoron sensor but the board and omoron were touching each other. Ended up having to space out the tool head board. If I'm doing anything wrong and this all fits together, please let me know. I'd like to get this dang printer up and running soon. Thanks Does the stepper collide with the core or with the StealthChanger x-carriage? The Orbiter has one of the lowest steppers of all of the supported extruders and it sits quite far off to the side. When I designed this, I used the Sherpa Micro to check clearances but I will look into clearance for the other extruders. I will also look into Nitehawk board mounts but, eventually, every different extruder would need a unique mount design since the steppers are mounted at different heights and angles. The Omron probe is a little bulky and can be hard to design around but at least it's better than the BTT Eddy. My preferred probe is the Biqu MicroProbe.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... atrushing 1,070 Posted June 14 Share 6 hours ago, Beardo3D said: Also, I cannot find a decent board mount for the back of the obiter. I switch out my ebb36 tool heads and went with nighthawk36s. I also run the omoron sensor but the board and omoron were touching each other. Ended up having to space out the tool head board. Did you try the mounts on the Nitehawk36 GitHub page? OrbiterMount Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Beardo3D 1 Posted June 14 Share It hits the rigid core right where I marked it. I was able to insert a small negative part in the slicer to get them to all fit. So other than wiring in the Neos and waiting on my fans, the heads are pretty much all built now. Just a few things I noticed while putting them together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... atrushing 1,070 Posted June 14 Share 1 hour ago, Beardo3D said: It hits the rigid core right where I marked it. I was able to insert a small negative part in the slicer to get them to all fit. So other than wiring in the Neos and waiting on my fans, the heads are pretty much all built now. Just a few things I noticed while putting them together. Well done and thanks for the input. I will work on the parts you've pointed out so other people can benefit from your efforts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Beardo3D 1 Posted June 15 Share I know I may be asking for to much with this one, but any chance of a nozzle camera mount? I pulled off 6 nozzle cams off the old stealthchanger. Would hate to see them go to waste. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... atrushing 1,070 Posted June 15 Share 1 hour ago, Beardo3D said: I know I may be asking for to much with this one, but any chance of a nozzle camera mount? I pulled off 6 nozzle cams off the old stealthchanger. Would hate to see them go to waste. Thanks! I can look into it. Would this be a good starting point? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Beardo3D 1 Posted June 15 Share I believe that would work. But the mini being so small, I am concerned where the board would fit. I'm running this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... atrushing 1,070 Posted Wednesday at 08:02 PM Share On 6/15/2026 at 10:51 PM, Beardo3D said: I believe that would work. But the mini being so small, I am concerned where the board would fit. I'm running this: It looks like it might be able to work with the PCB mounted on the side of the shroud but the flat cable would need to be routed around the hotend fan and the part cooling blower. There are a few different versions of the camera modules so I'm not certain I have the right geometry. I would like to be able to make this into an additional .stl file that could be merged with any shroud in the slicer. It really wouldn't be fun making an entire new set of shroud bodies to add the camera mounting. I will try to have something for you to print and test within the next few days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Beardo3D 1 Posted Wednesday at 09:13 PM Share If you need dimension, let me know what you need. I can provide measurements. I'm still on the search for a decent nighthawk36/EBB36 orbiter mount. Everything I have printed so far just doesn't do it. Either interferes with the omoron optitap, or the umbilical mount is so far away from the board, it's useless. I'm down for suggestions if someone has had good luck with one. If not, I'll attempt to make my own solution and trust me, nobody wants to see that..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... atrushing 1,070 Posted Thursday at 08:18 AM Share The important dimensions I could use are X, Y and C. Once I scale the image in Blender I can get the A and B dimensions close enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Beardo3D 1 Posted Thursday at 01:13 PM Share A=8.6mm B=8.6mm C=3.1mm X=12.5mm Y=26mm 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... atrushing 1,070 Posted 13 hours ago Share On 6/15/2026 at 8:26 PM, Beardo3D said: I know I may be asking for to much with this one, but any chance of a nozzle camera mount? I pulled off 6 nozzle cams off the old stealthchanger. Would hate to see them go to waste. Thanks! Here is a first attempt at a nozzle cam mount that can be added to any of the standard sized shrouds. If this works, I can make a UHF version as well. It uses two M2x6mm screws to attach the PCB, longer screws would hit the part cooling blower. You could also cut down the M2x10 self-tapping screws that are Voron standard. There are two parts that need to be merged with the shroud within the slicer. The negative body part needs to have its type changed within the right-click menu. Both of the parts have geometry that helps align them to the hotend fan hole of the shroud. Nozzle_Cam_Mount.stl Nozzle_Cam_Negative_Body.stl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Prev 22 23 24 25 26 27 Next Page 27 of 27 Join the conversation You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Add a comment... × Pasted as rich text. 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atrushing 1,070 Posted June 7, 2025 Share Yes, the Mini Stealthburner is the official Voron design and it uses smaller blower fans. The definition of dab is 'to strike or touch lightly' similar to pat or tap. DAB just uses a standard microswitch (about 13x6x7mm). The same type that is used for the X and Y endstops on typical Vorons. You just need to pinch off the metal lever and there is a grub-screw that contacts the small red nub directly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beardo3D 1 Posted June 14 Share I have been spending the last 2 weeks converting my Voron over from regular sized stealthchanger to the mini. Love the mini! Noticed a few issues. I'm not sure if it was me or what. But I'm running the knomi body. Installed the rigid cores for the orbiter 2. I also have the filament sensors installed. But I had to notch the core in the slicer to get the orbiter to sit flat. The small stepper on the back contacts the ridge. Anyone else notice that or did I do something wrong? Also, I cannot find a decent board mount for the back of the obiter. I switch out my ebb36 tool heads and went with nighthawk36s. I also run the omoron sensor but the board and omoron were touching each other. Ended up having to space out the tool head board. If I'm doing anything wrong and this all fits together, please let me know. I'd like to get this dang printer up and running soon. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atrushing 1,070 Posted June 14 Share 5 hours ago, Beardo3D said: I have been spending the last 2 weeks converting my Voron over from regular sized stealthchanger to the mini. Love the mini! Noticed a few issues. I'm not sure if it was me or what. But I'm running the knomi body. Installed the rigid cores for the orbiter 2. I also have the filament sensors installed. But I had to notch the core in the slicer to get the orbiter to sit flat. The small stepper on the back contacts the ridge. Anyone else notice that or did I do something wrong? Also, I cannot find a decent board mount for the back of the obiter. I switch out my ebb36 tool heads and went with nighthawk36s. I also run the omoron sensor but the board and omoron were touching each other. Ended up having to space out the tool head board. If I'm doing anything wrong and this all fits together, please let me know. I'd like to get this dang printer up and running soon. Thanks Does the stepper collide with the core or with the StealthChanger x-carriage? The Orbiter has one of the lowest steppers of all of the supported extruders and it sits quite far off to the side. When I designed this, I used the Sherpa Micro to check clearances but I will look into clearance for the other extruders. I will also look into Nitehawk board mounts but, eventually, every different extruder would need a unique mount design since the steppers are mounted at different heights and angles. The Omron probe is a little bulky and can be hard to design around but at least it's better than the BTT Eddy. My preferred probe is the Biqu MicroProbe.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atrushing 1,070 Posted June 14 Share 6 hours ago, Beardo3D said: Also, I cannot find a decent board mount for the back of the obiter. I switch out my ebb36 tool heads and went with nighthawk36s. I also run the omoron sensor but the board and omoron were touching each other. Ended up having to space out the tool head board. Did you try the mounts on the Nitehawk36 GitHub page? OrbiterMount Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beardo3D 1 Posted June 14 Share It hits the rigid core right where I marked it. I was able to insert a small negative part in the slicer to get them to all fit. So other than wiring in the Neos and waiting on my fans, the heads are pretty much all built now. Just a few things I noticed while putting them together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atrushing 1,070 Posted June 14 Share 1 hour ago, Beardo3D said: It hits the rigid core right where I marked it. I was able to insert a small negative part in the slicer to get them to all fit. So other than wiring in the Neos and waiting on my fans, the heads are pretty much all built now. Just a few things I noticed while putting them together. Well done and thanks for the input. I will work on the parts you've pointed out so other people can benefit from your efforts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beardo3D 1 Posted June 15 Share I know I may be asking for to much with this one, but any chance of a nozzle camera mount? I pulled off 6 nozzle cams off the old stealthchanger. Would hate to see them go to waste. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atrushing 1,070 Posted June 15 Share 1 hour ago, Beardo3D said: I know I may be asking for to much with this one, but any chance of a nozzle camera mount? I pulled off 6 nozzle cams off the old stealthchanger. Would hate to see them go to waste. Thanks! I can look into it. Would this be a good starting point? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beardo3D 1 Posted June 15 Share I believe that would work. But the mini being so small, I am concerned where the board would fit. I'm running this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atrushing 1,070 Posted Wednesday at 08:02 PM Share On 6/15/2026 at 10:51 PM, Beardo3D said: I believe that would work. But the mini being so small, I am concerned where the board would fit. I'm running this: It looks like it might be able to work with the PCB mounted on the side of the shroud but the flat cable would need to be routed around the hotend fan and the part cooling blower. There are a few different versions of the camera modules so I'm not certain I have the right geometry. I would like to be able to make this into an additional .stl file that could be merged with any shroud in the slicer. It really wouldn't be fun making an entire new set of shroud bodies to add the camera mounting. I will try to have something for you to print and test within the next few days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beardo3D 1 Posted Wednesday at 09:13 PM Share If you need dimension, let me know what you need. I can provide measurements. I'm still on the search for a decent nighthawk36/EBB36 orbiter mount. Everything I have printed so far just doesn't do it. Either interferes with the omoron optitap, or the umbilical mount is so far away from the board, it's useless. I'm down for suggestions if someone has had good luck with one. If not, I'll attempt to make my own solution and trust me, nobody wants to see that..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atrushing 1,070 Posted Thursday at 08:18 AM Share The important dimensions I could use are X, Y and C. Once I scale the image in Blender I can get the A and B dimensions close enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beardo3D 1 Posted Thursday at 01:13 PM Share A=8.6mm B=8.6mm C=3.1mm X=12.5mm Y=26mm 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atrushing 1,070 Posted 13 hours ago Share On 6/15/2026 at 8:26 PM, Beardo3D said: I know I may be asking for to much with this one, but any chance of a nozzle camera mount? I pulled off 6 nozzle cams off the old stealthchanger. Would hate to see them go to waste. Thanks! Here is a first attempt at a nozzle cam mount that can be added to any of the standard sized shrouds. If this works, I can make a UHF version as well. It uses two M2x6mm screws to attach the PCB, longer screws would hit the part cooling blower. You could also cut down the M2x10 self-tapping screws that are Voron standard. There are two parts that need to be merged with the shroud within the slicer. The negative body part needs to have its type changed within the right-click menu. Both of the parts have geometry that helps align them to the hotend fan hole of the shroud. Nozzle_Cam_Mount.stl Nozzle_Cam_Negative_Body.stl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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