Voron Trident 350 extremely slow build

[mvdveer]

8 hours ago, claudermilk said:

I'm running a mesh WiFI (Orbi) and I like it. It's so much easier than the old cobbled-together setup with multiple Linksys WRT54 routers. I have what smart home devices force me to wifi on it, the printers, and all the TVs. I can have 3 HD streams going at once and the sifi doesn't miss a beat.

Same here, never had a problem. Integrates well with all devices. 

 

[mbunjes]

I installed the wifi pod and it works very well. Hopefully this was the cause of my problems.
I ran the probe accuracy test and results were within 0.003 mm. Pretty good so far!

Now I'm PID tuning the bed and hot end. Everything seems to be going well so fingers crossed.

[mvdveer]

Just now, mbunjes said:

I installed the wifi pod and it works very well.

Good to hear. Funny old world this 3d Printing. Something as simple as wifi signal causing so much grey hair

1 minute ago, mbunjes said:

Now I'm PID tuning the bed and hot end. Everything seems to be going well so fingers crossed.

Good to hear. Don't forget to go through the Andrew ellis Tuning guide as well. It is well worth the effort. Your prints will be elevated to the next level

https://github.com/AndrewEllis93/Print-Tuning-Guide

[mbunjes]

How do I quote a part of a sentence like you do ? I only seem to be able to quote the whole post.
But yes, I'm aware of the Ellis tuning guide and I will certainly use it after the base tuning I'm doing now.

[mvdveer]

Just now, mbunjes said:

How do I quote a part of a sentence like you do ?

1. Highlight the part you want to quote

2. Then click the "quote selection" box - it will then put that part of text into your editor.

Hope this helps

 

 

[mbunjes]

Ugh, never saw that. Thanks.

[mbunjes]

Trying to calibrate my E-steps and although I'm using the prescribed 1.8 deg. pancake and BMG gear the rotation distance is nowhere near the default of 22.6789511 .
When extruding 100mm it only extrudes about 60mm
What could be wrong ?

[mbunjes]

It seems I have a habit of asking questions I can find the answer to myself after some digging. Sorry.
The gear ratio of the CW2 is different from the CW1 which still is the default in the printer.cfg.

So changing from 50:17 to 50:10

[mbunjes]

I'm happy to report that everything is working and calibrated following the Voron documentation.
Do I dare print something ?

[mbunjes]

The Voron documentation mentions slicer profiles for popular slicers but I heve not been able to find any. Do they exist?

[mvdveer]

6 hours ago, mbunjes said:

The Voron documentation mentions slicer profiles for popular slicers but I heve not been able to find any. Do they exist?

These are the ones for Prusa slicer - Voron 2 but works on the trident:

https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2/tree/Voron2.4/slicer_profiles/PrusaSlicer

see also: https://github.com/supermerill/SuperSlicer/issues/2486 for explanations, etc

These are for Superslicer:

https://github.com/AndrewEllis93/Ellis-PIF-Profile/tree/master/SuperSlicer

 

[claudermilk]

20 hours ago, mbunjes said:

I'm happy to report that everything is working and calibrated following the Voron documentation.
Do I dare print something ?

Time  to print plastic boat!

[mbunjes]

Hmm, I'm ashamed to admit I've never printed a benchy in my life. Thousands of other things but never a benchy.

Now a question if I may : I'm slightly confused by this part of the initial start up manual :

"you may make it permanent, by applying it to the probe’s z_offset in your config file: run the command Z_OFFSET_APPLY_PROBE followed by SAVE_CONFIG"

After doing the Z_ENDSTOP_CALIBRATE it says all settings will be lost when you restart the printer.

But didn't SAVE_CONFIG put the Z-offset value at the end  of the printer.cfg file ?

I tried Z_OFFSET_APPLY_ENDSTOP but the printer just says : nothing to do: Z offset is 0.

Or do I have to un-hash #position_endstop: in the Z stepper section and fill in the value at the end of the file ?
 

Edited November 1, 2022 by mbunjes

[smirk]

27 minutes ago, mbunjes said:

I've never printed a benchy in my life

I think that is something to celebrate (that makes you utterly unique in the printing fraternity)

As I understand it everytime you do something like Z_ENDSTOP_CALIBRATE you are changing the offsets so, yes they'd need to be save afresh.

All the calibration stuff actually gets written to the end of the printer.cfg file (the relevant/corresponding lines in th various sections are commented out). The stuff at the end has a particular format (which confusingly looks like comments):

#*# <---------------------- SAVE_CONFIG ---------------------->
#*# DO NOT EDIT THIS BLOCK OR BELOW. The contents are auto-generated.
#*#
#*# [bed_mesh default]
#*# version = 1
#*# points =
#*#     0.942500, 0.907500, 1.010000, 1.015000, 1.080000

I imagine uncommenting the lines in the defined sections (i.e. those above the "there be monsters" section at the end) will cause undefined issues. If you're careful/reckless you can manually edit the lines in the "Do not edit this block" bit if you want to change something a smidge without going through a whole recalibration cycle of something.

[mbunjes]

I still don't understand : the manual states : 

All of the above methods are “transient”. The changes are lost as soon as your printer restarts. Once you find an adjustment you are happy with, you may make it permanent, by applying it to the position_endstop in your config file: run the command Z_OFFSET_APPLY_ENDSTOP followed by SAVE_CONFIG. This will restart your printer, with the adjustment permanently applied to the endstop position.

But if you do a SAVE_CONFIG after Z_ENDSTOP_CALIBRATE it's in the SAVE_CONFIG section, like the PID values. How can they be lost when you restart ?

Am I missing something ?

[smirk]

Could it be the z_offset_apply command? That doesnt save anything, it does a "calculation" and changes settings in RAM, you still need the Save configuration bit. Or am I still off the mark?

[mbunjes]

I don't know. Some parts of Klipper are very obscure to me.

 

[smirk]

9 hours ago, mbunjes said:

Some parts of Klipper are very obscure to me.

That's not an uncommon feeling. I've come to like Klipper a lot and I do appreciate it's capabilities but as I always say "it's a developer product", and developers aren't "normal" people . Quite often the stuff they create might be perfectly sensible by their logic but the 99% of everyone else will go "What?! Why did they do that?!?"

[claudermilk]

I've actually just been going through this again this week. My Klicky setup was kaput for a while (I think fixed now), so I've been back to the inductive probe.

After you run z_endstop_calibrate you have to run save_config to get the offset written to that do not edit section. That becomes your zero point. The Z Offset 0.0000mm is from the current print job live z adjustment. You can run save_config  after the print is done to update the value with your new offset and reset zero again.

This is part of why Klicky + z-calibration is awesome. It does all this for you. All you have to do is get the switch offset set, and it does it all each time you print with a calibrate_z call in your print_start.

[mbunjes]

So I've done that :run z_endstop_calibrate and save_config.
But then the manual states this setting won't be saved and you have to do a Z_offset_apply_endstop and save_config to make it permanent.
It could mean after you do baby-stepping when printing maybe ? That would be transient and make sense. That would mean a big omission in the Voron documentation.

The Klicky sounds awesome and I will print one as soon as I can print ABS.

[claudermilk]

Yes, if you just do the baby-stepping during print, that will go away when you restart. Unless you run save_config after the print job finishes.

What I love about klicky + z-calibration is it does all this automatically when you set up your print_start. Mine homes (if needed), does z-tilt, then adaptive mesh (only the section of bed being used, only if the job is big enough), then z-calibration. Perfect first layer every time. 

[mbunjes]

I really don't get it. i did everything by the book and tried printing but the nozzle wasn't even near the bed. I tried babystepping but no matter what I did, the filament wouldn't adhere to the buildplate. I tried the smooth side and the textured side of an older PEI plate I had but nothing worked. 
I looked at Nero's build video for the Trident and he just did a Z-calibrate and he was printing.

I'm stopping for the moment because I'm getting irritated.
Time for some wine

[smirk]

Sorry to say but wine is a terrible print bed adhesiive, you'd be better off drinking it.

[mbunjes]

So I drank the wine as suggested and delved into Ellis's tuning guide. He mentions letting the bed soak for an hour before attempting any calibrating. I tried that but there's some sort of time-out mechanism in Klipper that turns off the heater after a while. 
I don't want to dig too deep into macro's that would allow that at the moment.
I still haven't been able to set my z-offset satisfactory.

Edited November 4, 2022 by mbunjes

[smirk]

It'll be the idle_timeout. Looking at the stock Trident printer.cfg there's an entry:

[idle_timeout]
timeout: 1800

Which is only 30 minutes before it turns stuff off (by default it's turn heaters and motors off). Guess you want to increase that to at least 3600 or more.

I forgot about that - clearly I hadn't drunk enough bed adhesive. It always bit me when I've been doing similiar soaking on other printers.