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Voron Trident 350 extremely slow build


mbunjes

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8 minutes ago, mbunjes said:

Arrow up brings the nozzle closer to the bed.

I guess that is another point that makes this process harder to make sense of. In Mainsail it is the opposite but the layout makes it a little more visual which arrow will do what.

Fluidd on the top and Mainsail on the bottom.. To make it even more complicated, in Mainsail, the zoom factor of the webpage will change the button layout.

2023-02-10-143134_1918x1052_scrot.png.aea9d553f0197178d527df1654e9c3af.png

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3 hours ago, atrushing said:

Trying to wrap my head around plus/minus and up/down starts feeling like watching Abbott and Costello doing "Who's on First"!

It might help to keep in mind that Klipper doesn't care if the gantry or the bed moves.. When the Z-offset is accounted for 0.0mm is, in theory, the nozzle touching the bed. Negative numbers should try to move the nozzle closer to the bed while positive numbers should move the nozzle away from the bed.

😆 So I'm not the only one to have that thought! (BTW, one of the all-time great comedy skits)

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3 hours ago, atrushing said:

Trying to wrap my head around plus/minus and up/down starts feeling like watching Abbott and Costello doing "Who's on First"!

It might help to keep in mind that Klipper doesn't care if the gantry or the bed moves.. When the Z-offset is accounted for 0.0mm is, in theory, the nozzle touching the bed. Negative numbers should try to move the nozzle closer to the bed while positive numbers should move the nozzle away from the bed.

😆 So I'm not the only one to have that thought! (BTW, one of the all-time great comedy skits)

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Just to let the general public know: everything is going smoothly. I'm following Ellis's tuning guide and I'm at the extrusion multiplier state. 

What he doesn't explain is why are there  hundreds of these tuning cubes ? They are all the same and I'll use only about ten of them.


The best thing I did was bringing the tolerances of Z-tilt adjust and bed mesh down a tiny bit. No more exceeding tolerances and waiting endlessly till Z-tilt decided it was good enough.

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He does mention. The multitude of cubes are marked for the EM you sent to them; otherwise they are identical. You can just use the blank, but following his instructions for PS/SS and using the marked ones makes it easier to just run a batch around a target in one plate.

Also, be sure to follow his slicing instructions carefully. He is very specific and describes why.

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2 hours ago, mbunjes said:

Since I'm using Cura I have to print one at the time.

You can have multiple objects with different parameters in Cura. If you stick one of those calibration cube thingies onto the build plate, highlight it and then click the "Per model settings" on the left-hand button bar:

cura-select.thumb.jpeg.0d4a9eb93340c52998a18b68ca973f63.jpeg

Then click the "Select sttings" button, in the pop up window you can then type the parameter you want e.g. "Flow" (equivalent to "Extrusion Multplier" in other slicers).

Then multple the object as many times as you want to vary the parameter ("flow" in this case). Once you have multiple objects you can then click on each one and go into the "Per model settings" option and set the things as you wish.

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4 hours ago, mbunjes said:

My understanding is you can only run a batch with different EM in SS.
Since I'm using Cura I have to print one at the time.

< goes into PS 2.5.0 to check > Well, how about that? Yep, it's a SuperSlicer extra feature. I guess do that tuning using SS and use the results in PS if you want to use it instead. I'm currently torn; I like these kind of extra tuning abilities, but the new support features in PS...

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43 minutes ago, mbunjes said:

However, I get constant clogs with this combination. What could be the issue ?

Most of the time it's too much retraction. Letting the nozzle sit idle at temp will also cause clogging and probably more times than not it's crappy filament.

Do you have a part where the nozzle clogged and what your speeds and temps were?

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7 minutes ago, mbunjes said:

What do you mean a part ? 

A printed part that the nozzle clogged on while you were printing it. It probably doesn't matter that much now that I think about it.

So, I don't know what you've printed already or how they turned out so I'll ask...

What have you printed? What materials clog under what conditions? When is the nozzle clogging? Mid print, 1st layer, doing infill? Does it clog with PLA or PETG or ABS or ASA or what? Every filament is different, every print is different.

Based on what you've shared I would say raise the temp to 250 and see if that helps. Printing faster can also help. 60mm/s is on the slow side.

You may already know this but clogging occurs when the melt zone of the filament moves up into the cool area of the hotend where it jams.

...and after everything is said and done... the material, temps and speeds you print at might be fine and it might just be something you wouldn't think it could be like the hotend fan. Some fans just don't cool well enough and many have found that swapping it out for a better fan solved the problem.

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It stops extruding mid print. It is a new build. I have had it clogging on first layers as well

8 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

Does it clog with PLA or PETG or ABS or ASA or what? Every filament is different, every print is different.

I stated all that in the question. It's Esun ABS+ I don't think there's a better fan than the Hemera I'm using.

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I've been using a spec GDSTIME 4010 fan (sourced here from KB3D) on my SB/Revo combo. I'm nearing 1400 hours print time and have had exactly 3 clogs ever--all of them with the Polymaker CoPA Nylon I was experimenting with.

I can't find any specs on the Hemera fan aside from size & that there's 12V or 24V available. I wonder if it pushes as much air?

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