Voron 2.4 R2 - From Ontario Canada HEY!

[PFarm]

Just a head up regarding cheap Chinese 5015 fans I had to replace one of the bed fans and didn't check the polarity of the connector turns out it was pinned wrong. So when I powered up the printer the short on the 24V circuit for some reason took out the Tap optic sensor, the Stealthburner LEDS and the case LEDs so everything connected to 5V.  I had another Tap kit so stole the sensor from it and will need to replace it, I'll need to replace all of the LEDs as well, I've ordered RGBW for the case lighting which will replace the RGB ones.

Edited April 3, 2023 by PFarm

[PFarm]

So it was definitely the seam causing the artifacts. Return the seam to the rear and enabled "retract at layer change".  Still seem to be some wall scaring. Thoughts on the corners do I revisit pressure advance?

Edited April 3, 2023 by PFarm

[claudermilk]

I was going to say check that your EM and PA calibrations are good. Have you run input shaper yet? How about cooling settings?

I just recently had to re-calibrate from scratch because somehow I managed to bork settings enough that I got lost. Grabbed Ellis' SuperSlicer settings as a baseline, then ran through his calibrations again. The printer is running better than ever now. One thing that's counter-intuitive because of common knowledge is how much cooling he runs on ABS. It makes a difference on the overhangs and bridging.

[PFarm]

@claudermilk Thanks for the suggestion I'll give it a go. No input shaper yet. Cooling is at 35%.

Edited April 3, 2023 by PFarm

[PFarm]

Out of the blue (WTF) right after a completed print, the thermal fuse on the bed gave up the ghost.  Bypassed for now till I get another one.

Edited April 3, 2023 by PFarm

[PFarm]

So as recommended by @claudermilk is used Andrew Ellis's profile was as the base, re-tuned with a few setting changes and this is the result. Any input is appreciated.

 

 

 

Edited April 3, 2023 by PFarm

[Buurman]

very close to a good end result I think, looking good already, yet to me it looks like somehow its stressed at some points.

cant really tell what this could be, and hard to tell without having the part in hand...

What is the speed you are printing at? and accel for inner/outer walls?

[Buurman]

and your retraction settings maybe, length, speed, wipe?

[claudermilk]

Looks really good overall. The top layer still looks a bit over extruded to me. Maybe a touch lower on the EM, maybe change the top infill extrusion width? I grabbed Ellis' SuperSlicer profile as my base & that uses 100% for top infill. I get super clean top layers now.

For ABS I took the advice Andrew Ellis provides and bumped my cooling up. 50% in general, 80% for a single part. It did help with overhangs and bridging.

[PFarm]

41 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

 I grabbed Ellis' SuperSlicer profile as my base & that uses 100% for top infill. I get super clean top layers now.

@claudermilk Can you post a photo of what your top layer looks like please. Thanks for the tip on single-part fan speed.

Edited April 4, 2023 by PFarm

[claudermilk]

@PFarm Sure, here are some test cubes. White is PLA, grey is ABS, black is soaking-wet Nylon. Zoom in, I posted at full-size. IMHO I can't really get any better than this.

[PFarm]

Hey, guys I know some of you use a purge bucket with Tap, the way I have my start gcode setup it heats the bed to 110C then does the adaptive mesh followed by 250C hot end, Voron purge then prints. The end gcode retracts enough filament so there is no oozing during hot end heating. I'm missing something in the setup, hot end is a Dragon standard flow? Do the high-flow hot end tend to ooze?

Edited April 12, 2023 by PFarm

[claudermilk]

I'm actually starting to think about ditching the purge part now. Just run the quick scrub to ensure the nozzle is clean and I'm not probing off a glob of filament. I also have a big between-prints retraction to eliminate ooze (and facilitate Revo nozzle swaps).

[mvdveer]

7 hours ago, claudermilk said:

ditching the purge part now.

Have ditched the adaptive purge and went back to a prime line. Gives me a better idea of the "squish" in the first layer. It is not often that I need to adjust the Z-offset but the prime line gives me the option to do this prior to the actual print starting.

[claudermilk]

 But...the Voron logo purge!

I've never really been able to tell how good the squish is from my purge line, I've always watched the first perimeters go down for that. Fortunately I've got that dialed in pretty well and really only have to worry at all when swapping plates around. Even Tap needs you to pay attention there.

I did remove the nozzle purge from my startup routine with no ill effects. In fact it's helping now that the Tap-ified tool head can barely get the nozzle over the brush. Just a couple of scrubs and depend on the adaptive purge to catch any little bit of ooze.

[Buurman]

On 4/12/2023 at 10:53 PM, mvdveer said:

Have ditched the adaptive purge and went back to a prime line. Gives me a better idea of the "squish" in the first layer. It is not often that I need to adjust the Z-offset but the prime line gives me the option to do this prior to the actual print starting.

Make sure the flow on your purge is the sam than your first layer flow, since they are totally set in different ways.

The flow of your purge line is often set quite higher, then it still wont tell you much...

[PFarm]

Is this normal (CW2) or a bridging issue? Over-extruding as well? Was having an extruder issue and finally got it sorted.  Need to check the rotation again.

 

Edited April 15, 2023 by PFarm

[mvdveer]

8 hours ago, PFarm said:

s this normal (CW2) or a bridging issue? Over-extruding as well? Was having an extruder issue and finally got it sorted.  Need to check the rotation again.

I think that is normal, but then I am still learning to fine tune slicer settings.

[PFarm]

Still trying to dial in this printer any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. Ni input shaper as of yet. The major issue is on the X-axis could this be belt related (not tight enough)?

 

[Chuck_Snow]

HI @PFarm, from one Canadian to an other, I just finished my FormBot build and I printed all my parts in E-Sun ABS+

Black and Silver, I know some dont like it but some say it fine either way it got me to the finish line.. I printed all my parts on my Ender5Pro in a Tent with around 30  to 45'c after an hour of printing it took a good while to find a happy medium whit the E-Sun ABS+ for me I found it worked better HOT, 255 Hot End 110 Bed then drop Bed to 100 it will print at 240 but I find that the layer did nt adhere well enough I was getting layer separation.

the other Big one was the Extrusion Multiplier 0.924 - 0.95 and had to get the Flow and Extruder dialed in then the prints got better  but I still had issue whit smaller part Where I would get weird corners and overhangs like you did..

if it still give you issues the ABS+ Sparta is really good an it Local to us .. or the ASA Sparta which I think you got Obsidian black..

And well the E-Sun ABS+ one day I would get 10 perfect parts the next day I have little issue here and there on corner and overhangs.. 

Oh ya E-Sun ABS+ was weird whit the fan .. some times it help other time s I think not so good . I never had the fan more then 15-25 , 25 on Bridges .

The other thing Black printed better for me then the Silver did not sure why ?.

So it not just you I too had a lot of problems printing it too ,,, but now that the Voron build doesn't matter I can reprint if need be and print like a dream ... 

Edited April 25, 2023 by Chuck_Snow

[PFarm]

11 minutes ago, Chuck_Snow said:

HI @PFarm, from one Canadian to another, I just finished my FormBot build and I printed all my parts in E-Sun ABS+

 

Man, I really appreciate the info, your printer looks a lot like mine LOL! I give those temperatures a go. I really like the matt finish the Esun ABS+ has. I know some say that it is weaker than regular ABS but some members here have it on their printer with no issues. Nice ti see another Canadian on here!

[Chuck_Snow]

And yes I have seen a lot of test wear the Matte finish product where weaker.. 

 

oh ya one other thing I used the Exact same profile on Super slicer, I only changed the Size and Temps that it and it 

printed way better,,  on the Voron using ABS+ Sparta over the E-Sun ABS+ on the Ender5Pro With SpritePro Extruder and Sonic Pad

I will soon try the E-Sun+ on the Voron and see the Difference .. I can let you know how it goes ..
and ya it a pain to get premium filaments here in the GTA .. all these filaments that they talk about we have to order from the USA after exchange, shipping tax an border it get expensive ..
Here our choice is Polymaker, Raise3D, Sparta3D, E-Sun, Matchbox(amazon but it expensive), and BASF..

and a few Canadian flavors like Spool3D and I 3D Printing Canada.. 

I have had some bad luck whit some cheap amazon brands .

 

 

 

Edited April 25, 2023 by Chuck_Snow

[Chuck_Snow]

Sparta ABS+ on the Voron

 

[Chuck_Snow]

E-Sun ABS+ on a good day on the Ender5Pro Mod 

[Chuck_Snow]

E-sun ABS+ on a bad day..