Voron 2.4 R2 - From Ontario Canada HEY!

[PFarm]

One of the 5mm pulley shaft was out of tolerance. Pull the shaft in a cordless drive and used a 400t grid sandpaper to get down so the bearing would fit (easy fix).

 

 

Edited November 28, 2022 by PFarm

[mvdveer]

8 hours ago, PFarm said:

Got the frame together and squarest check!

Square square square - Ahhhhh

[PFarm]

11 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Square square square - Ahhhhh

LOL thanks I fixed the typo!

 

[mvdveer]

3 minutes ago, PFarm said:

LOL thanks I fixed the typo!

To be honest - didn't even notice - just admiring the squareness of the frame. 

[PFarm]

So I've converted my other Artillery X1s running on a OrangePI 3 LTS to Klipper/Mainsail. Used Kiauh to first remove Octopint then to install Klipper, Moonraker, Mainsail. What nice about using the OrangePi is the Klipper is install on the EMMC no more SDcard. 

[mvdveer]

6 minutes ago, PFarm said:

Klipper is install on the EMMC no more SDcard

Does it have a SD card to store files on? Don't know the orangePi at all, (Know about its existence that is all)

[PFarm]

5 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Does it have a SD card to store files on? Don't know the orangePi at all, (Know about its existence that is all)

It does have an SDcard but you can off load the software to EMMC which is onboard memory (8G). Free up your SDcard for other use

 

Edited November 27, 2022 by PFarm

[Buurman]

17 hours ago, PFarm said:

Got the frame together and squareness check! Still printing Z-drive parts so will prep and mount the z rails.

I am getting very jealous looking at the craftman wall there... oooh, I love these drawers with all the toys useful tools to spend money on!! (my wife walked by)  

Frame looks good, square is GOOOOOOD! 

[Buurman]

22 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Was not aware of that. Thanks for the heads up - May need to change the colour scheme. If it was not for the cost of postage to Australia, I might have ordered some as well.

I did some tests in the past, but the gold/silver ones are bad, layers just dont stick together that well, and its a BIG difference in strength. So yeah, I woudnt go for silver for parts that need strength, yet, most accent parts dont really need to be that strong I think? 

Some silvers are not that shiny, and some are, so probably there is also a lot of difference in strength, I would make a test print if I were you and see how it feels?

Shipping spindles from Canada to Europe, believe me, crazy stupid expensive too, on a 200 dollar order, shipping is about the same, 160 dollar extra.

Thats why i am doing this on a discord channel, where a German guy (i think) is buying 100's of spindles all at ones that you preorder.

Shipping from germany to here is added later. now a spindle ASA Sparkle comes to 28 euro or so, what is absolutely fine, since I hear its good filament.

[mvdveer]

54 minutes ago, Buurman said:

I would make a test print if I were you and see how it feels?

Going to do just that. Silver was going to be for the accent parts, but will still do an integrity strength test.

[smirk]

3 hours ago, Buurman said:

oooh, I love these drawers with all the toys useful tools to spend money on!! (my wife walked by)

Really useful for her to keep your severed extermities in as well.

[PFarm]

5 hours ago, Buurman said:

I did some tests in the past, but the gold/silver ones are bad, layers just dont stick together that well, and its a BIG difference in strength. So yeah, I woudnt go for silver for parts that need strength, yet, most accent parts dont really need to be that strong I think? 

Some silvers are not that shiny, and some are, so probably there is also a lot of difference in strength, I would make a test print if I were you and see how it feels?

Shipping spindles from Canada to Europe, believe me, crazy stupid expensive too, on a 200 dollar order, shipping is about the same, 160 dollar extra.

Thats why i am doing this on a discord channel, where a German guy (i think) is buying 100's of spindles all at ones that you preorder.

Shipping from germany to here is added later. now a spindle ASA Sparkle comes to 28 euro or so, what is absolutely fine, since I hear its good filament.

So this cloud grey is more like a silver color and your's right there is layer adhesion issues. Going to try printing it at 245 instead of 235.

I've order Cherry Red for the accent color.

 

Edited November 28, 2022 by PFarm

[claudermilk]

Wow. My Trident accent parts are Sparta Cloud Grey Sparkle, printed on a Prusa Mini+ under a cardboard box. I have had zero issue with layer adhesion from those. The only part that's broken on me is the probe mount piece that replaces the inductive probe for Klicky--and that was because of damage from the blob monster.

What temps & speeds are you running? That infill doesn't look good, like it's running too fast. I t also looks like grid? Switch to cubic; that shifts the crossover points every layer so they don't pile up.

[Buurman]

57 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

Wow. My Trident accent parts are Sparta Cloud Grey Sparkle, printed on a Prusa Mini+ under a cardboard box. I have had zero issue with layer adhesion from those. The only part that's broken on me is the probe mount piece that replaces the inductive probe for Klicky--and that was because of damage from the blob monster.

What temps & speeds are you running? That infill doesn't look good, like it's running too fast. I t also looks like grid? Switch to cubic; that shifts the crossover points every layer so they don't pile up.

Thats what I was thinking too, the infill and parameter too for that matter, on the top right one in the picture is something from a horror movie... 

The layers are almost random distributed, like they are.. turning, changing, doesnt look like printed too cold, I would expect, even too hot?

Changing infill can help in some cases, I used to playaround, mostly because otherwise my nozzle sometimes grinded the infill, and some infills are worse than others, but now I dont have that issue anymore, with any infill. 

For this case, I think there is something else going on, I see open corners an the walls, so this could be too much speed, or pressure advance thats totally off.

[PFarm]

Thanks again guys appreciate the feedback

 

[claudermilk]

It might help to re-run the Ellis tuning process and double checking the temps for the Grey. Again, I have that exact filament as my accents and aside from the one issue I mentioned, all the parts are still on it after 1000+ hours of printing.

[PFarm]

Well some progress today, z motor, Z rail, din rail  mounted.  @claudermilk @Buurman again thanks for your feedback got the cloud grey ironing out, change infill and lower temperature and it all good. Last day at home before flying off to work, last post till I'm back in two weeks time.

 

Edited November 29, 2022 by PFarm

[claudermilk]

Yay! Happy to hear you got the Cloud Grey printing well!

[PFarm]

Decide to go with the pin mode for the xy and front idlers while waiting for them to arrive I've started assembling electronic. Kit come with 4amp and 8 amp fuses. Which are you guys on 220v installing? I went with the Makerbase MKSPi module, was easy to configure firmware comes with Fluid pre-loaded, powers for this module is 12/24V so no needs for the 5V power supply. I replaced Fluid using Kiauh love this application simplifies all tasks. Got the Octopus flashed as well. Printing skirt stuff so can be productive. Will must likely wire up whatever I can. Used the din Wago angle mounts I installed the din rails in the opposite direction I think this will lead to a cleaner wiring, we'll see! Go some leftover cable duct from my CNC build a bit big but will still work, no one going to see it when its all buttoned up.

Edited December 16, 2022 by PFarm

[smirk]

2 hours ago, PFarm said:

Kit come with 4amp and 8 amp fuses. Which are you guys on 220v installing?

I'd probably go for the 8amp fuse. 220v @ 4A would give you 800W(ish) of head-room, but I imagine the bed will be 700(ish) W and the hot-end will be 40 and the electronic and motors will take you closer. On the basis of a 70% - 80% (of total budget) then I'd would say the 8A give plenty of head-room (granted more than you'll need) without getting close to the maximum.

[PFarm]

That what I figured 4 amp for 220V and 8 amp for 110V. which give me 880W. Thanks appreciate the info.

[mvdveer]

9 hours ago, PFarm said:

That what I figured 4 amp for 220V and 8 amp for 110V. which give me 880W. Thanks appreciate the info.

 went with 8A fuses on the 220V supply.

[PFarm]

@Buurman Appreciate the tip on sanding down the pins so the bearings fit properly, got the Z idler, front idler and A/B drives done. Just waiting on the 40mm pin to arrive then I can assemble the gantry assembly. The front idler assembly when better then I expected, thanks for the assembly explanation! Pins instead of bolts made total sense to me and glad I did the mod.

Edited December 19, 2022 by PFarm

[PFarm]

Printed and installed skirts, still awaiting for pin to be delivered. Added bottom and top support for the bottom panel to keep it from warping/sagging. 

Edited December 19, 2022 by PFarm

[mvdveer]

8 hours ago, PFarm said:

Printed and installed skirts, still awaiting for pin to be delivered. Added bottom and top support for the bottom panel to keep it from warping/sagging. 

Looking good- where are those darn pins - can never find them  Hurry postman hurry !