Voron 2.4 R2 - From Ontario Canada HEY!

[PFarm]

Some progress today got the bed magnet and heater installed. Gantry assembled and Z belts installed. Next ab belts still printing parts need the x carriage bracket to install the belts.

 

Edited December 20, 2022 by PFarm

[mvdveer]

Coming along nicely!

[PFarm]

Few more parts hung, X carriage, belts installed/adjusted and de-racked. CW1 assembled onto hot end, switches, bed and start wiring tomorrow. Plans is to get setup and working then switch over to canbus.

 

Edited December 21, 2022 by PFarm

[smirk]

Looking good! (I want to have a rummage in all those drawers)

[PFarm]

Well it starting to look like a printer instead of a cubical frame. I'm having an absolute blast putting this printer together. Ordered some wire duct last week from Amazon waiting for that to come in to do the electronics. Still printing parts, where are you guys installing the enclosure thermistor? Got the email today saying tap parts have been shipped. @smirk two years ago we had a big box hardware store closer in my home town always wanted a larger tool box, pick it up for half price so couldn't pass it up!

Edited December 22, 2022 by PFarm

[mvdveer]

10 minutes ago, PFarm said:

where are you guys installing the enclosure thermistor?

There is a mod to install it on the back extrusion where the cable chain attaches:

 

[PFarm]

@mvdveer Thanks timing is perfect this is where I'm at with the wiring so I'll run a pair of wires to this area.

Edited December 22, 2022 by PFarm

[PFarm]

We are getting hammered by the weather, rain, sleet, snow and temperature dropping and power outages so light printing and work done to the build. Got the Ellis fan mod, nevermore  and LED lights installed. Hoping to finish the wiring tomorrow. Need to reprint another grey cover on the nevermore guess I didn't purge the filament properly.

Edited December 24, 2022 by PFarm

[PFarm]

Got the tool head PCB wired with the exception of probe waiting on tap parts, added nylon washer to keep the back of the PCB board of the extruded motor. Installed chamber thermistor, wired the nevermore and bed fans into the wago’s. I had the BTT shutdown and UPS module for another printer mod so decided to install them on this printer, added 4010 fans to the stepper drivers coming from the Artillery X1 world better save for the cost of two fans! Using a Pi alternative Makerbase 64 bit MKS Pi was easy to configure and is powered by 12/24v also dedicated ADXL connections. Started to wire the electronics bay. The only draw back of this alternative is No on board wifi you need to add a wifi adapter. Off to work for the next two weeks should have it finished and printing on my next days off. 

Edited December 27, 2022 by PFarm

[Buurman]

looking forward to hear about your experience on the bed fans... 

Would be my first addition to my printer too I think..

[mvdveer]

Nice a neat. Looking good

[PFarm]

Well, it lives! Got it mostly wired (need to clean some wiring up) and need to terminate wiring for Stealthburner LEDs and enclosure LEDs. Added a Klipper expansion module for the extra Neopixel enclosure LEDs. Pi-3 only has one USB port to install a powered USB hub for Pi to the motherboard and webcam. Next is component verification, tuning, and first print. Magic smoke genie stayed in his lamp! 

[mvdveer]

How good is that! Now the fun starts in getting it tuned to perfection. Not that I got there yet. Love the Klipper expander units - easy to set up and use. Have you considered using the probe port (can be set to 5V) or BLTouch port on the octopus board for the extra LED's?. 

[PFarm]

1 minute ago, mvdveer said:

Love the Klipper expander units - easy to set up and use. Have you considered using the probe port (can be set to 5V) or BLTouch port on the octopus board for the extra LED's?. 

Yes, the Octopus will be used for the Stealthburner LED and the expansion module for the enclosure LEDs. I already had the WS2812 addressable led strip and decided to use those for the enclosure lighting. You're right the expansion board was easy to flash and set up in the config file. The probe port will be used for tap, I've gone with the probe that came with the kit for now and will change out to tap later.

[mvdveer]

9 minutes ago, PFarm said:

the expansion module for the enclosure LEDs.

These could be connected to the Octopus board on the BLTouch port J43 if you want, in stead of adding an expander board.

 

[claudermilk]

My WS2812B case light strips are hooked to the BL Touch port and work without an issue. GND/5V/PB6

[PFarm]

Got all the wiring completed and started the initial startup. I'm at the probe accuracy test not comprehending what the value should be shooting for, would appreciate some guidance. Stock Omron probe.

Edited January 17, 2023 by PFarm

[claudermilk]

Check https://docs.vorondesign.com/build/startup/ about 3/4 down under Probe Accuracy Check.

Quote

It will probe the bed 10 times in a row and output a standard deviation value at the end. Make sure that the sensed distance is not trending (gradually decreasing or increasing over the 10 probes) and that the standard deviation is less than 0.003mm.

 

[PFarm]

Got the Klicky Probe installed. What range is the probe accuracy supposed to be?  0.569 is the best I can get out of this switch. Needly to say QGL won't past the first point. I'm stumped as what comes next do I need another microswitch?

[atrushing]

4 hours ago, PFarm said:

Got the Klicky Probe installed. What range is the probe accuracy supposed to be?  0.569 is the best I can get out of this switch. Needly to say QGL won't past the first point. I'm stumped as what comes next do I need another microswitch?

A couple of questions/ideas:

Are the magnets making a flush and secure connection when it picks up the micro-switch pod?

Did you remove the metal lever from the micro-switch?

How fast are you probing? In my experience anything over 20mm/sec can lower the accuracy. Here is a chart with the repeatability of different switches and you can see that a micro-switch is one of the more accurate options.

Edited January 19, 2023 by atrushing

[PFarm]

I've removed the lever and verified the operation of the switch with a multimeter. As for the speed is whatever Klipper default PROBE_ACCURACY is set at. I'll look up how to set the probing speed. Appreciate the help.

[atrushing]

29 minutes ago, PFarm said:

As for the speed is whatever Klipper default PROBE_ACCURACY is set at.

I did a quick test and the PROBE_ACCURACY pulls the speed from the [probe] section of your printer.cfg

When I changed mine from 25mm/sec to 5mm/sec my accuracy went from .00652 to .004023 with an off-brand capacitive probe.

[PFarm]

New issue this morning the gantry eventually falls to the bed when left idle. Is this caused by defective permanent magnets?

 

 

Edited January 19, 2023 by PFarm

[PFarm]

Here what happening if I home the printer and then centre the printer head and Z is a 30. The gantry will lower itself till the nozzle hit the bed, if I try to move to another location it will drag the nozzle across the bed. because it thinks the Z is still at 30. So come to the conclusion that something is wrong with the steppers. Order a set of LDO motor kit from Spartan 3D. Do I need to replace all of the steppers since they're  .9 degrees and Moon steppers are 1.8 degrees?

 

Edited January 19, 2023 by PFarm

[smirk]

5 hours ago, PFarm said:

Do I need to replace all of the steppers since they're  .9 degrees and Moon steppers are 1.8 degrees?

Technically, I wouldn't say you needed to replace motors just because of the difference in stepping resolution (as long as you have your rotation distances set appropriately). Having said that, ideally you would want motors matched by "function" so all the Z motors the same (even the same model) and the A/B motors the same. Probably most important to keep all your Z motors the same make/model to eliminate any odd variances.

On a side note, personally, I've only ever had "grief" with 0.9 degree motors. I'm always tempted by that presumed increase in accuracy/resolution (which is clearly negated by all the other factors in the machine), but the 0.9 motors have much lower torque (I think in most/alll cases) when comparing to similar 1.8 degree motors. To be honest I've never found 0.9 motors to be worth it (perhaps my expectations were too high and I was looking for "WOW, that's amazing!" but generally all I ever got was "Meh! I think that's marginally better")