Voron 2.4 R2 - From Ontario Canada HEY!

[PFarm]

I ran cables from the Octopus probe to the tap probe, still getting the same deviation readout. Get the same reading as a bad probe where it creeps upwards. Did the same with the two other probes as well. So if this is a mechanical issue what would cause this.

 

Edited March 4, 2023 by PFarm

[mvdveer]

All I can think of is that the toolhead is not 90degrees to the build plate - sitting on a slight angle perhaps?

Have you tried adjusting the two screws at the bottom of the TAP X-Carriage on which the Stealthburner rests?

[PFarm]

So first thing I'm going to look at is the Z belt tension.

[PFarm]

I tighten the Z belts and AB belts and re-tightened all the screws on the gantry. Better accuracy reading was able to save the probe calibration to the config file. and perform a QGL. Never thought the z belts needed to be that tight! So, tuning is next, routing the probe wires in the drag chain, and fixing the one wire for the extruder motor that pulled out of the connector.

@mvdveer @claudermilk thanks guys for sticking with me while we worked thru these issues! 

Edited March 4, 2023 by PFarm

[PFarm]

I do have to say that the Moon steppers are a lot quieter than the LDO stepper (Moon z-steppers replaced with LDO) with stealthchop enabled.

[mvdveer]

1 hour ago, PFarm said:

I do have to say that the Moon steppers are a lot quieter than the LDO stepper

I do agree. I have some stepperonline motors in my first V0 and LDO in the pink V0 (this is what I had) and moons in the others - Marked difference.

[PFarm]

Finally got to the point that I'm ready to tune it Hooooray!

[mvdveer]

(Drumroll) ........ Let the tuning begin....

[PFarm]

Well finally printing plastic! Had some issues with the LDO pancake stepper on the Stealthburner it would overheat and stop pushing filament. Luckily I had a Moon stepper to replace it with, the LDO one is not wasted I'm converting my Artillery X1 to Stealthburner since these don't have an enclosure the stepper should be ok. I also replaced the LDO z stepper back to the Moon man what a difference Moon steppers are a lot quieter. The issue with the gantry coming down when idle was not enough belt tension z belts they're all good now. Onto reprinting some parts that I wasn't satisfied with the quality printed by the Artillery X1.

 

 

Edited March 26, 2023 by PFarm

[mvdveer]

Oh what a feeling........ Happy printing

[PFarm]

Printed my rear panel logo and installed it. So trying to figure out the SB LEDS not sure how to get the led to change colour with the status of the printer. Those the Gcode go in the slicer or in the printer.cfg file? Can someone show me a short screenshot of their LED setup, please?

[mvdveer]

1 hour ago, PFarm said:

Printed my rear panel logo and installed it

Looks great

1 hour ago, PFarm said:

Those the Gcode go in the slicer or in the printer.cfg file

Neither unless your macros are embedded in your printer.cfg file - goes in the START_PRINT macro: This is mine as an example: (Feel free to use it and change to your needs)

[gcode_macro START_PRINT]
gcode:
    STATUS_READY
    BED_MESH_CLEAR
    G90      #Absolute positioning
    STATUS_HOMING
    M117 Homing...
    G28
    STATUS_CLEANING
    M117 Clean nozzle ......
    CLEAN_NOZZLE
    STATUS_HEATING
    M117 Heating bed ......
    M140 S{params.BED_TEMP}
    M190 S{params.BED_TEMP}
    M109 S150
    M117 Leveling Gantry ........
    STATUS_LEVELING
    QUAD_GANTRY_LEVEL
    STATUS_MESHING
    M117 Adaptive Bed Mesh .....
    BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
   # M117 Loading Mesh ........
   # BED_MESH_PROFILE Load=HotMesh
    G0 X150 Y150 Z30 F3600
    STATUS_HEATING
    M117 Heating Toolhead
    M104 S{params.TOOL_TEMP}
    M109 S{params.TOOL_TEMP}
    STATUS_BUSY
    STATUS_CLEANING
    M117 Purging .........
    ADAPTIVE_PURGE
    #CLEAN_NOZZLE
    G90
    M117 Starting Print .......
    STATUS_PRINTING

The STATUS_* commands are individual macros, determining the color of the neopixels in the logo and toolhead. These should be defined in the neopixel.cfg file. See this file here. The M117 commands are outputs to the screen and are not really needed.

 

Hope this helps

 

[Wick]

you best start here: https://github.com/julianschill/klipper-led_effect

[PFarm]

@mvdveer @Wick thanks guys that has been great help!

[claudermilk]

15 hours ago, PFarm said:

Printed my rear panel logo and installed it. So trying to figure out the SB LEDS not sure how to get the led to change colour with the status of the printer. Those the Gcode go in the slicer or in the printer.cfg file? Can someone show me a short screenshot of their LED setup, please?

No (because my LED config is a few hundred lines long). But I can point you to my printer config backup on GitHub. Look at leds.cfg for all the dirty details. To change the LEDs, just call the macros a the bottom in the relevant macro. For example, call LED_PRINTING in PRINT_START. 

[PFarm]

@claudermilk Appreciate the help and the access to your files on Github. 

Edited March 28, 2023 by PFarm

[PFarm]

Got quite a few things done today, installed whoppingpochard Kinematic Bed Mounts, one - three fan circuit board under the bed, Voron Bed Pan with the exception of the purge bucket (Kinematic Mount in the way), a second chain guide on the rear drag chain and a front on-off switch. Going to remix the top cover and remove the purge bucket area. 

The rear exhaust housing is next and better door hinges the present one has the doors overlapping. Button up hot end with cover PCB cover and apply for serial #.

[PFarm]

The printer is all tuned up, I really like how this Esun ABS + came out looks awesome! Love this printer

 

Edited April 3, 2023 by PFarm

[PFarm]

Two issues I need to deal with, one looks like it is the seam over extrusion the other is got ghosting where the screw holes are. Any guidance would be appreciated. 

[Buurman]

First picture I always have (maybe a little less), even with 4 outer layers, the holes are just very close to the wall.

But make sure to use 4 outer layers... even though they cant be used there....

Second one, never seen... looks almost like skipped layers... or too much acceleration, in the inner corner I also see a little scarring... 

[Buurman]

Is this some strange scarring too?

 

EDIT, ah I think this is overhang in the way you printed them.

Maybe still needs some attention, shouldn't have this on this print... ideally...

Maybe a little cooling during overhangs?

[Penatr8tor]

@Buurman I think he just needs to re-print it in the orientation that he's got in the photo. 

[Buurman]

1 hour ago, Penatr8tor said:

@Buurman I think he just needs to re-print it in the orientation that he's got in the photo. 

I think you are correct, they are printed on not the default side, I already felt like something was off. looking at the full plate, but yes, thats it! 

[PFarm]

7 hours ago, PFarm said:

Two issues I need to deal with, one looks like it is the seam over extrusion the other is got ghosting where the screw holes are. Any guidance would be appreciated. 

Yes your correct some scaring on the inside corners

[PFarm]

So I re-did pressure advance and moved the seams to the corners but the corners seem to bulge. So going to reprint with a different seam orientation to verify the PA setting. But seem that the scarring was caused by the seam ( set at the rear). I also added an additional perimeter as @Buurman suggested and hole ghosting seems to be better.

 

Edited April 3, 2023 by PFarm