Voron 2.4 R2 - From Ontario Canada HEY!

[Chuck_Snow]

 E-Sun ABS+ on the Voron I just printed it

255/110 First Layer then 250/100 the rest.

 

Edited April 25, 2023 by Chuck_Snow

[PFarm]

@Chuck_Snow Using your setting and fan speed gets me one step closer to tuning in the Esun ABS+. Activated the "External perimeter first" think I also had too much cooling which would curl the corners slightly. EM is at 0.97 and needs to work on top finish. All other parts printed for a 2.4r2 were coming out looking pretty good but this Z drive main body was giving me some grief every time I printed it so this tells me I'm getting closer.

[Chuck_Snow]

Looking Good it took me a good while too to Dial it in what I use to clean up the top and ruff spot is a Crescent Nicholson 6" Mill Single Cut Bastard File just make sure its a mill file mean it only has one cut grove not a hatch pattern . so ////////////>--

and I use the Sharp edge of the Tang as a deburring tool lol.

I have included my Super Slicer profile maybe it can help you. I added Picture whit the thing you should change that suit your printer build.

Just import the config then you can rename the setting to your liking.

Super Slicer.zip

[Chuck_Snow]

I use that same profile for both my Voron and Ender5Pro and it print differently on each,, 

but it got me in the ball park..

And every time I dial in a New filament I create a profile for it .

 

Edited April 26, 2023 by Chuck_Snow

[PFarm]

39 minutes ago, Chuck_Snow said:

what I use to clean up the top and ruff spot is a Crescent Nicholson 6" Mill Single Cut Bastard File just make sure its a mill file mean it only has one cut grove not a hatch pattern . so //

What I use for matting surfaces is 800 grit sandpaper on a piece of glass to knock down the edges.

[Chuck_Snow]

Yes, I mean Lapping work to, make all edge parallel. I do that a lot whit metal, over the year like my Block planes, and Jack planes I have a lot of Carpenter hand tool..  Funny I work whit metal most of my life but most of my Tool at home are wood tools lol ,, 

 

[Penatr8tor]

@PFarm What is your extrusion multiplier set to in your slicer? From the looks of your parts... you can probably reduce it by 5%. That should get rid of the elephants foot on the bottom as well as the over extrusion on outer perimeters and top solid infill.

I also had some issues printing ASA parts for my RatRig 3.1. I would get excessive corner lifting on parts even though I had good, dialed in settings. What I eventually discovered was that my part cooling fan was set to 40%, I lowered it to 30% and the lifting went away.

Some things to think about. 

 

[PFarm]

@Penatr8tor thanks for the recommendation, made the EM adjustment the elephant foot is gone and now the top layer has a nice finish.

[Penatr8tor]

@PFarm Sweet! Glad that it worked for you. 

 

[PFarm]

Any suggestion on how to fix the de-lamination and bulge on the seam? All other prints come out fine.

Update: Think I've got it figured out, been having extruder issues I'm going to install a genuine Bondtech gear assembly. When extruding 100m there's a slight slowdown in the extrusion.

 

Edited May 4, 2023 by PFarm

[atrushing]

50 minutes ago, PFarm said:

Any suggestion on how to fix the de-lamination and bulge on the seam? All other prints come out fine.

The bulge at the seam looks like you might need a little pressure advance. Here is a decent starting value..

pressure_advance: 0.045
pressure_advance_smooth_time: 0.04

[Chuck_Snow]

That is the Seam line..

 

The other lines on the other hand, might be cause by the Fan filament is cooling to fast and it stretching out thin and it not bonding properly adding more flow could help. or partly the Hot end Temps..

See when you're trying to print hot and fast the filament wants to ooze hot it flows faster thinner so it comes out thin and stringy and if you add high fan cooling and can alter it ability to adhere fast enough and shrink faster which creates under extrusion. you can compensate for that whit a small amount of more extrusion/flow..
I mean that has just been my observation whit my prints so far..

And for the extruder, I just switch mine to the Bondtech LGX Lite seam very good so far ,,and it has room later if you want to upgrade to a CAN bus board etc .. jsut a few printed part and it fits right in easy as pie..

Edited May 4, 2023 by Chuck_Snow

[Chuck_Snow]

See here the same part that I printed mind you I scraped the seam line ..

Mines a little Bigger !!  I have a special filter box inside for filter and charcoal media.

 

Edited May 4, 2023 by Chuck_Snow

[Buurman]

4 hours ago, PFarm said:

Any suggestion on how to fix the de-lamination and bulge on the seam? All other prints come out fine.

Update: Think I've got it figured out, been having extruder issues I'm going to install a genuine Bondtech gear assembly. When extruding 100m there's a slight slowdown in the extrusion.

With default alignment I have the seam on exact the same place.

And quite clear, never took the trouble to place it better, since its on the back of the printer.

Rest of the print is pretty perfect, so this seam is quite a rare one, that its so obvious. I am also strugling with the seam placement on the Stealthburner, perfect place doenst "seam" to exist...

 

PS, I use the normal filter box, but with FEVACH filters in it, coal/carbon pellets and HEPA filter.

[PFarm]

Replaced the extruder internal drive component with genuine Bondtech parts, extrusion is a lot smoother, re-calibrate the extruder. While I had the CW2 apart I installed the Tap R8 parts, I was having issues with the upper belt on the right side staying in place under tension. Like the newly added feature of the locking block for the belt. Also went with the second set of magnets over the screws.

Note: just noticed I've got the cover installed backwards when compared to the change log photo don't think it matters?

Edited May 5, 2023 by PFarm

[PFarm]

@atrushing @Chuck_Snow @Buurman This forum as always is so helpful turns out what I was adjusting for pressure advance was the smooth time, pressure advance was still commented DUH! Adjusted the seam location to corners and this was the result - the seam is gone!

Edited May 5, 2023 by PFarm

[mvdveer]

20 minutes ago, PFarm said:

Adjusted the seam location to corners and this was the result - seam is gone!

Great result. I love your persistence and quest for perfection. In that, I learn - thanks

[PFarm]

Yesterday while swapping out the Tap R8 changed out the Stealthbunrer body as well. The next mod is installing the backer plates and BTT 2209 Canbus with the BTT U2C. I'm glad I took the advice of getting the printer working before doing Canbus, so now that it working great let's see if I can break it , the only way to learn right?

[mvdveer]

9 minutes ago, PFarm said:

I'm glad I took the advice of getting the printer working before doing Canbus, so now that it working great let's see if I can break it

Not gonna break, I have faith. Looking great! There is so many "walkthroughs" on Canbus, it should be a breeze. Walkthroughs - reminds me of the day I played Kings Quest and Leisure Suite Larry and got stuck. Where's that walkthrough?

[PFarm]

9 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Leisure Suite Larry and got stuck. Where's that walkthrough?

Leisure Suite Larry is one of my favourite games! Guess we are dating ourselves LOL. (Dam I got old!)

Edited May 5, 2023 by PFarm

[mvdveer]

17 minutes ago, PFarm said:

(Dam I got old!)

You and me both- thank heavens for 3d Printers

[claudermilk]

2 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Not gonna break, I have faith. Looking great! There is so many "walkthroughs" on Canbus, it should be a breeze. Walkthroughs - reminds me of the day I played Kings Quest and Leisure Suite Larry and got stuck. Where's that walkthrough?

OMG, I got that reference. Yes, we are old.

I didn't really play the Sierra graphical adventure games, I leaned more to the Infocom text-based ones. (OMG the damn Babel fish in Hitchhiker's Guide)

[Buurman]

On 5/5/2023 at 12:59 PM, PFarm said:

Yesterday while swapping out the Tap R8 changed out the Stealthbunrer body as well. The next mod is installing the backer plates and BTT 2209 Canbus with the BTT U2C. I'm glad I took the advice of getting the printer working before doing Canbus, so now that it working great let's see if I can break it , the only way to learn right?

I like the hotend fan you are using! what is it?

Looks great and from what I am seeing prints great too!  Running close to 50 now, I too was a Leisure Suit Larry player!

Looking at painting above the bar... how often I have seen that...

[PFarm]

6 minutes ago, Buurman said:

I like the hotend fan you are using! what is it?

It's a Noctua fan, I'd cut off the two wires I didn't need but wish I didn't cause I think the BTT 2209 Canbus can monitor RPM.

 

Edited May 6, 2023 by PFarm

[PFarm]

Added a little something to the printer today .