Voron 2.4 R2 Build Diary

[Poisson]

Got all the wires attached to the connectors on the toolhead, connected the 5V and LED signal wires in the electrical compartment and turned the printer on for the first time. None of the magic smoke escaped! Off to a good start.

Going to attach the bottom panel tomorrow and perhaps start on klipper config.

[mvdveer]

2 minutes ago, Poisson said:

None of the magic smoke escaped!

Always a good start

[Buurman]

11 hours ago, Poisson said:

the klicky switch seems to be in a closed state by default, and in an open state when the switch is pressed. Is that...normal?

Yes, this is correct! its open without the probe, closed with the switch attached and open when pressed. This way it knows when the probe successfully picked up the switch, or when it falls off.

[Buurman]

And if we are all posting photos of our tools... 

Like it very much... Aliexpress.

I like this one because its more stable in your hands than a straight one, closer to your hands, you are also able to lock the connector (2/3 clicks) and then put the wire in. never goes wrong..

Edited October 29, 2022 by Buurman

[claudermilk]

6 hours ago, Buurman said:

Yes, this is correct! its open without the probe, closed with the switch attached and open when pressed. This way it knows when the probe successfully picked up the switch, or when it falls off.

This. I can tell you all about how well this works... 

The basic idea is that if the switch fails, a wire fails, the Klicky probe doesn't attach, falls off, or mount correctly the printer will immediately stop. It's a good failsafe, and it works.

[Poisson]

Got the pi all setup and mainsail / klipper installed and updated. Got the firmware on the motherboard flashed.

Unfortunately that's it for the day, I have an early Halloween party tonight, and hopefully I'm not too hungover tomorrow to start making my printer.cfg.

Edited October 29, 2022 by Poisson

[mvdveer]

3 hours ago, Poisson said:

Got the pi all setup and mainsail / klipper installed and updated. Got the firmware on the motherboard flashed.

 

Looking good, love the colour scheme. Shout out if you need help with the configuration part

[mvdveer]

15 hours ago, Buurman said:

I like this one because its more stable in your hands than a straight one, closer to your hands, you are also able to lock the connector (2/3 clicks) and then put the wire in. never goes wrong..

No that looks handy - might change my view on crimping. Even with a pre-wired harness, there was still a fair bit of crimping to be done. - But then there were a fair bit of mods. So either I stop complaining about crimping or stop the mods - which will it be?

[Buurman]

8 hours ago, mvdveer said:

So either I stop complaining about crimping or stop the mods - which will it be?

Hahahaha, stop kidding yourself there is no choice… 

[Buurman]

15 hours ago, Poisson said:

Got the pi all setup and mainsail / klipper installed and updated. Got the firmware on the motherboard flashed.

Unfortunately that's it for the day, I have an early Halloween party tonight, and hopefully I'm not too hungover tomorrow to start making my printer.cfg.

The belt to your extruder is the wrong way around, you can take off the end, and switch them from ends, so it wont bend the way they do now... 

Again.. its an adventure

[Poisson]

3 hours ago, Buurman said:

The belt to your extruder is the wrong way around, you can take off the end, and switch them from ends, so it wont bend the way they do now... 

Again.. its an adventure

Are you talking about the wire chain?

[smirk]

1 hour ago, Poisson said:

Are you talking about the wire chain?

He is . Have a look at the image in, the cable chain kinda goes back underneath the print-head ratherthan over the top

 

[Poisson]

Max_power setting for the bed heater. Says rule of thumb is 0.4 watts / cm^2

Is this cm^2 of the bed itself, of the of the heaterpad?

 

[mvdveer]

AS @smirk and @Buurman eluded to, the cable chain on both X and Y axis needs to be flipped - the chain should rest on the extrusion. 

[Poisson]

Progress:

https://i.imgur.com/rM6UhJA.mp4

[mvdveer]

4 minutes ago, Poisson said:

Progress:

https://i.imgur.com/rM6UhJA.mp4

Good progress. Just a tip, if I may?  Flip the cable ends around on both X and Y axis, it will eliminate the sharp angle between the bend and the first link.

Y - Axis:

and X-Axis

Sorry if pictures are blurry. Printer currently printing.

[Poisson]

3 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Good progress. Just a tip, if I may?  Flip the cable ends around on both X and Y axis, it will eliminate the sharp angle between the bend and the first link.

Y - Axis:

and X-Axis

Sorry if pictures are blurry. Printer currently printing.

I'm not sure if all cable chains are like this, but mine have a double link on one side before it bends, and a single link on the other side. I assumed this was the proper configuration to avoid wire strain the most. If I reverse it and do it with the single link end of the chain on the toolhead side and the x gantry side then the chain is going to bed sooner and therefore the wires will potentially strain more, no?

[mvdveer]

2 minutes ago, Poisson said:

I'm not sure if all cable chains are like this, but mine have a double link on one side before it bends, and a single link on the other side. I assumed this was the proper configuration to avoid wire strain the most. If I reverse it and do it with the single link end of the chain on the toolhead side and the x gantry side then the chain is going to bed sooner and therefore the wires will potentially strain more, no?

There is just about no strain on the wires where they enter the chain. I do not think the orientation of the chain endplate will make a difference strain wise. Other members - your opinions /observations?

[mvdveer]

From the Voron 2.4 assembly manual p 223, il looks like the cable chains are mounted "flat" and not at an "angle"

[Buurman]

20 hours ago, Poisson said:

Are you talking about the wire chain?

Like smirk said, yes I was, dont know why I said belt, but yes I meant the cable chains..

 

I also flip the ends, atleast on one of the two chains, you can feel the way it bends. With one end, its able to go up, the other forces it to be straight. You need to force it straight on the Duct and on the top of the y axis one, see the (in focus) picture of mvdveer.

Edited October 31, 2022 by Buurman

[Poisson]

Turned the x and y chains around.

 

 

Ran into a fun issue. Been having strange problems with reading temp from the hot end thermistor and it triggering out of temp and shutting down (even when idle or turn on). I thought it was my wiring job with the PCB. I ran the temps up to 250c and it just died completely. I pulled out the thermistor wires completely and the thermistor only reads 0.3 ohms. Not sure what exactly room temperature should read but I assume somewhere closer to 100k ohms.

Ordered some replacement thermistors.

 

[Poisson]

It also now occurs to me I may done this to myself by choosing Generic  3950 as my hotend thermistor type.

[Poisson]

This begs another question, what is the thermistor type for the heated bed? It's the Vivedino 650W heater pad that came with my Formbot 2.4r2 350mm kit.

[Jeffware]

Most likely a Generic 3950, that's what Keenovo and others use.

[Poisson]

3 minutes ago, Jeffware said:

Most likely a Generic 3950, that's what Keenovo and others use.

Thanks, at least that one I had set correctly.