Voron 2.4 R2 Build Diary

[Poisson]

Stealthburner parts are finally coming in tomorrow, everything except for the parts cooling fan which shipping shows in the country, but not yet to the internal shipper to get it to the post office.

[Poisson]

Reading ahead to the Stealthburner instructions it says to lubricate the bearings in the BMG idler assembly with "light grease" which doesn't seem to be listed in the Voron BOM. What kind of grease is recommended for this? Can I use the Superlube again with it? One website I found offhand mentions lithium grease, which I don't think Superlube is.

[mvdveer]

9 hours ago, Buurman said:

Again, I learned something, never knew this but yes, it makes sense. So you DO save some wires, that maybe be worth goin to PCB from now on.. just ... maybe...

Will yet have to convince you. At first I was sceptical, now I am sold. So easy to change toolheads, if you need to.

[mvdveer]

4 hours ago, Poisson said:

Can I use the Superlube again with it?

I used both superlube and the recommended Mobil grease on different builds and have not noticed any difference. Superlube should work just fine. Just don't use any oil.

[Poisson]

Went to put all the heat inserts in Stealthburner today and Woops, I forgot to print all the accent pieces for Clockwork2. At least they are all small and fast.

Edited October 26, 2022 by Poisson

[Buurman]

23 hours ago, Poisson said:

Thank you! This still mounts on the left extrusion correct?

Yes, still left.

[Poisson]

Wiring I dub thee clean enough.

[Poisson]

Me: Why won't these m3x8 screw fit in the dragon hotend like the stealthurner instructions say to use?

 Formbot:

 

 

Voron Stealthburner Instructions are definitely for the Revo hotend and not the Dragon. Formbot gave me the correct screws for the dragon, labeled in a bag I just found.

Edited October 26, 2022 by Poisson

[Poisson]

What do you guys think, do I use whatever junk 5015 fan came in the aliexpress stealthburner kit until my good delta fan gets here and replace it later? or do I steal one of the 5015s from my current printer and just replace it when my fan gets here? The fan I I'm waiting for is the same model as the one in my current printer.

Edited October 26, 2022 by Poisson

[Poisson]

Clockwork2 assembled. Going to try and finish the rest of Stealthburner tomorrow.

[mvdveer]

Good progress. As to your question about fans - use the best you can afford. It is worth it in the end. Depends on how desperate you are to continue. Maybe wait for the fans to be delivered, if it is within the next week or so.

[smirk]

21 hours ago, Poisson said:

steal one

I'd echo @mvdveer sentiments, I think it depends on how many "miles" are on the other fan but if it's < than a week(*) for the proper part then I'd wait otherwise steal that sucker (assuming it's not been to the moon and back).

 

(*) I say "a week" but it depends on personal tolerance, as I age my time stretches out and I have to say "Who am I kidding, I'm not going to do something in a week?!". Fortunately I have not got to the age where I'm grateful/surprised to wake up each morning in which case my tolerance threshold will drop to hours or minutes.

[Poisson]

I am not that good at soldering, getting all wires on the pads of the LED boards was pretty daunting and I sure hope none of them are touching each other.

I put the el-cheapo 5015 fan in for now, good practice at least for how to get it in there. I'm going to be using the 2 part hartk PCB anyway so replacing the fan will be as easy as removing the two solder joints and resoldering the new fan on the smaller PCB anyway.

[Buurman]

I must say I have my doubts anyhow on buying better brand fans these days online, they dont always seem much better, lots of fakes goin around.. Delta, Sunon...

But... my sunons seems to run quieter than a cheaper brand (like there is always a whistle going on) even on slower speeds. I like that the Sunons overall are very well tuned, so when you set them slower, they really get a lot quieter.

I like Delta's too, but so much fake goin around.. Papst is the boss, but way too expensive, ugly, and no 24V.

So Sunon is the way to go I think... for me at least..

Edited October 27, 2022 by Buurman

[mvdveer]

2 hours ago, Poisson said:

getting all wires on the pads of the LED boards was pretty daunting

You done well. Not like me damaging the LED's when inserting them in the mini stealthburner. Now I have to wait for new one's to arrive. Always the waiting game. Good job

[Poisson]

Did a whole lot better with the hartk board soldering. Much easier when you don't have a little led board flopping around.

[Poisson]

I thought the soldering of the LEDs was bad, but this was truly horrifying. Having to crimp these tiny JST pins onto the extruder motor wires to put the little white jst connector on it. I even have a decent ractheting crimper but man these are tiny pins. I think I still need to use these same pins for a connector for the klicky probe. Since klicky only has 2 wires and it's a 3 pin connector I need to look up what is what on the klicky wires. If I remember correctly though it just needs signal and ground, no power.

[mvdveer]

12 minutes ago, Poisson said:

just needs signal and ground, no power.

Correct.

 

Like you, I do not enjoy crimping, but as I have come to discover a good crimping tool makes life so much easier. I have this one, costs a bit but well worth the money. (I have no affiliation with amazon)

https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B002AVVO7K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Poisson]

8 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Correct.

Like you, I do not enjoy crimping, but as I have come to discover a good crimping tool makes life so much easier. I have this one, costs a bit but well worth the money. (I have no affiliation with amazon)

https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B002AVVO7K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used to use a (cheaper) version of the one you have but I eventually got one of these:

They are nice because you can ratchet down the crimper to hold the pin in place and it doesn't come out. The disadvantage is that you can't quite see where the wire is inside the pin so it's easy to push the wire in too far. Not so bad on the larger JST pins, but this was my first time doing ones this small and it took my about 4-5 failures before I got down how far I needed to push the wire in before I crimped it all the way. I had to pull out my magnifying head band and everything. 

They also let you crimp both parts of the crimp at the same time.

Edited October 28, 2022 by Poisson

[Poisson]

Are you guys sure I don't need to run any wires for the LEDs? Don't I have to at least run a signal wire from the motherboard to the PCB in the toolhead? I don't think I have any signal wire right now.

Edited October 28, 2022 by Poisson

[Poisson]

To add onto the LED wire question, it looks like the PCB also needs a +5V wire in order to power the LEDs which I don't think I have coming from my electronics bay either. So it seems like at least 2 wires needed.

[claudermilk]

I'm not running any of the PCBs so keep that in mind. But, yes, you need 5V and signal for the LEDs. You are also correct on Klicky probe: just need ground and signal in the same positions as the inductive probe. I (happily) left my wiring all the same so can switch back and forth.

[smirk]

I'll second @mvdveer choice of ENGINEER PA-09, I use that. I am also a deviant - I like crimping and wiring.

[Poisson]

Turns out I had to re-crimp and put new connectors on all the wires coming from the toolhead, none of them had the correct connectors to connect to the PCB. I got them all done though. Now all is left is the big connector with the wires going out to the electronics bay.

I did notice while I was checking some of my work with my multimeter that the klicky switch seems to be in a closed state by default, and in an open state when the switch is pressed. Is that...normal? I guess this is just backwards from what I would have figured. Is it in a closed state by default so the software can sense the probe is there?

Edited October 28, 2022 by Poisson

[claudermilk]

3 hours ago, smirk said:

I'll second @mvdveer choice of ENGINEER PA-09, I use that. I am also a deviant - I like crimping and wiring.

So am I. I use an IWISS 2820M and am perfectly happy with them.