Voron 2.4 R2 Build Diary

[atrushing]

4 minutes ago, Poisson said:

I have not yet been able to determine if it needs to be modified.

If you are using BTT 2209 drivers then 'sense_resistor: 0.110' is a good value.

I had to change that when I was trying out some 5160s.

[Poisson]

I guess that just leaves run_current then for X,  Y, and Z. I should be aiming for somewhere between 50% - 80% of rated current of the those motors?

[Poisson]

Maybe I answered my own questions with my googling. According to https://docs.vorondesign.com/community/howto/120decibell/calculating_driver_current.html

You can't go over 1.2A because of the 2209 stepper driver, and 1.2A is 60% my motor's rated current. So 1.2A seems a safe number to use for my run_current yes?

Edited November 7, 2022 by Poisson

[Poisson]

I am running input shaper now that I have the motor currents increased to 1.2A (though this is my first time running it since the enclosure was put on. I'm actually losing a little bit on the Y now (I'm guessing more from the enclosure being on, then from the current increase).

Do you guys usually run input shaper when it is cold, or after a heat soak? I've been running it cold, but it occurs to me that readings are going to be different when everything heats up?

Edited November 7, 2022 by Poisson

[Poisson]

As an addendum, a short heat soak changed things slightly, but not by much.

[mvdveer]

4 hours ago, Poisson said:

Do you guys usually run input shaper when it is cold, or after a heat soak?

I normally run it when the printer is cold 

[smirk]

4 hours ago, Poisson said:

Do you guys usually run input shaper when it is cold,

I run it cod as well, but I run multiple cycles to get a good "average"

[Poisson]

What a pain getting these LEDs installed was with the panels on. I soldered all the wires on them (outside the printer), then  when I mounted everything and ran all the wires I accidentally had the first strip reversed in the holder so incoming wires were going to the outgoing side and nothing worked. Had to desolder then resolder the wires on that one while it was inside the enclosure.

Ignore the color scheme, this is whatever the stealthburner_leds.cfg is doing to them by default.

Fun part is now to learn how to control them!

[Poisson]

It seems I may have already made a big mistake here, it looks like the Neopixels in the toolhead are RGBW and the ones in the strips are GRB, and according to the stealthburner_leds.cfg they can not be mixed on the same data pin.

[Poisson]

Reddit to the rescue, looks like a solution here: 

 

Quote

 

 

 

 

level 1

Bingkokek

·8 mo. ago

https://preview.redd.it/award_images/t5_22cerq/5izbv4fn0md41_Wholesome.png?width=32&height=32&auto=webp&s=d11484a208d68a318bf9d4fcf371171a1cb6a7efhttps://www.redditstatic.com/gold/awards/icon/Illuminati_32.png

 

I'm 2 months late for this question, but I am also using the PB0 pins on the Octopus for my case lighting and ran into the same issue trying to fit the new neopixels for the Stealthburner. I haven't really put the Stealthburner together yet, but I decided to wire the 3 neopixels together to find and alternative source for the 3 new wires. I hooked it up to the BLTouch pins (all 3 wires). They are together and so far looks like it's lighting up correctly.

TLDR: I used the PB6 pin for the Data, and the 5V and Ground pins next to it on the BLTouch area. I hope this helps anyone in the same situation with the BTT Octopus.

 

 

Looks like I can potentially run the data for these off of the BLTouch data pin.

 

 

Edited November 8, 2022 by Poisson

[smirk]

Good detective work finding that!

[Buurman]

4 hours ago, Poisson said:

Reddit to the rescue, looks like a solution here: 

 

Looks like I can potentially run the data for these off of the BLTouch data pin.

Yes, this works, I run my leds in the chamber from another pin also. one string is called NEO, other CHAMBER.

Using BP6 for the second chain, posting a part of my printer.cfg.

 

#####################
#### LED LIGHTS #####
#####################
[neopixel neo]
pin: PB0
chain_count: 3
#   The number of Neopixel chips that are "daisy chained" to the
#   provided pin. The default is 1 (which indicates only a single
#   Neopixel is connected to the pin).
color_order: GRBW
#   Set the pixel order required by the LED hardware. Options are GRB,
#   RGB, GRBW, or RGBW. The default is GRB.
initial_RED: 0.0
initial_GREEN: 0.0
initial_BLUE: 0.0
initial_WHITE: 0.0
#   Sets the initial LED color of the Neopixel. Each value should be
#   between 0.0 and 1.0. The WHITE option is only available on RGBW
#   LEDs. The default for each color is 0.

[neopixel chamber]
pin: PB6
chain_count:60
#   The number of Neopixel chips that are "daisy chained" to the
#   provided pin. The default is 1 (which indicates only a single
#   Neopixel is connected to the pin).
color_order: GRB
#   Set the pixel order required by the LED hardware. Options are GRB,
#   RGB, GRBW, or RGBW. The default is GRB.
initial_RED: 0.0
initial_GREEN: 0.0
initial_BLUE: 0.0
#   Sets the initial LED color of the Neopixel. Each value should be
#   between 0.0 and 1.0. The WHITE option is only available on RGBW
#   LEDs. The default for each color is 0.

 

Should rename the first to SB, but guess im too lazy  

I can also post a cool startup code if you like, also have it from a youtube somewhere, not my own inventing...

[claudermilk]

7 hours ago, Poisson said:

Reddit to the rescue, looks like a solution here: 

 

Looks like I can potentially run the data for these off of the BLTouch data pin.

That will work. It's exactly what II have done. Likely from digging up the same post. So tool head RGBW LEDs are on the NeoPixel port and the case RGB LEDs are on the BL Touch port. Works great, the only catch is needing to define separate tool head and case light lighting schemes, then call both. I just created a stand-alone LEDs macro file with the effects defined and a simple macro to turn off previous effects, then call both the tool head and case light effects. Then in the main macros I simply make a single call to the LED effect macro.

You can check my config on my Github for examples.

[Poisson]

Progress, got the strips on the PB6 pin and turning on basic white now.

[mvdveer]

13 hours ago, Poisson said:

Looks like I can potentially run the data for these off of the BLTouch data pin.

Yes you can, just update the pin allocation in the .cfg file

[Poisson]

So, I might have gone a little over the top with LED effects in the printer's startup sequence, but it was fun to setup:

 

[mvdveer]

12 minutes ago, Poisson said:

So, I might have gone a little over the top with LED effects in the printer's startup sequence, but it was fun to setup:

Not at all, and fun is what it is all about, isn't it?

[Jeffware]

In the immortal words of Tim the Toolman, " too mush power is just right" or in this case too much lighting and effects are just right!

[smirk]

1 hour ago, Poisson said:

So, I might have gone a little over the top

That all looks perfectly reasonable and sober to me?!

[claudermilk]

I'm certainly not one to throw stones. Have you seen my 450-odd line led config file? 

Looks great! To further quote Tim the Toolman Taylor: "R-R-R!"

[Poisson]

7 hours ago, smirk said:

That all looks perfectly reasonable and sober to me?!

Most of it was sober...at least 60%.

Edited November 9, 2022 by Poisson

[Poisson]

Here was my first "real" print on the Voron, something that wasn't a calibration print, benchy, or part for the Voron. Still need to learn where I need supports for this printer. I printed it in leftover ABS, and need to do a little more post processing support removal. Model in honor of building the 350 Voron 2.4.

Edited November 10, 2022 by Poisson

[mvdveer]

11 minutes ago, Poisson said:

Here was my first "real" print on the Voron,

Very nice. The first of many to come no doubt.

 

12 minutes ago, Poisson said:

Model in honor of building the 350 Voron 2.4.

Once you get your serial number, you should incorporate it into the model - that would be special and unique

[claudermilk]

Nice.

Out of curiosity, how much extra time do you think was added by parking the head at each layer for the timelapse? My camera is at a similar, but somewhat worse angle as yours, so thus far most have the toolhead in the way.

[Poisson]

3 hours ago, claudermilk said:

Nice.

Out of curiosity, how much extra time do you think was added by parking the head at each layer for the timelapse? My camera is at a similar, but somewhat worse angle as yours, so thus far most have the toolhead in the way.

Well that is the great thing about a Voron 2.4, travel speed and travel accel is amazing so it takes barely any time to go to park position and back. I actually had to increase the park time to .5 seconds to get a good shot to take place. So you're talking maybe 2-3 seconds extra per layer? Not that much.