Voron 2.4 R2 Build Diary

[Poisson]

 

I cleaned up the webcam and LED wiring in the bottom extrusions inside the chamber:

I used the modified versions of these: 

 

Edited November 11, 2022 by Poisson

[claudermilk]

20 hours ago, Poisson said:

Well that is the great thing about a Voron 2.4, travel speed and travel accel is amazing so it takes barely any time to go to park position and back. I actually had to increase the park time to .5 seconds to get a good shot to take place. So you're talking maybe 2-3 seconds extra per layer? Not that much.

Cool. I'll tweak my config and play with that on a future job. Voron travel speeds and accels are pretty impressive.

[Poisson]

Now for my next trick, and this was one I am particularly proud of.

I think I mentioned previously I have an exhaust fan in my 3D printing area to exhaust those nasty ABS fumes outdoors. Well, I have that exhaust fan connected to a Z-wave smart plug which is connected to my homeassistant instance.

I figured out how to get sensors from moonraker into homassistant (stuff like hotend temperature, bed termperature etc). Now I am using that so when the hotend gets above 190 it automatically turns on the exhaust fan in the room, and when it drops below 100 to automatically turn off the exhaust fan.

[Poisson]

Getting towards the end of the mods here, but I installed a BTTFT40 V2 5" screen and klipperscreen.

Much more usable than the default mini LCD screen.

The only mods I think I have left is an end filament run out sensor, nevermore, and maybe some chamber warming fans. Though at some point I want to build the enraged rabbit carrot feeder, that is definitely a project down the line.

Edited November 11, 2022 by Poisson

[Poisson]

Let me ask you guys a question about max accel and max speed. I did the Andrew Ellis tests here: https://github.com/AndrewEllis93/Print-Tuning-Guide/blob/main/articles/determining_max_speeds_accels.md to try and determine max accel and max speed. I was getting well above 30k accel with no skipping that I could hear, and no skipping showing in the console. The worst noise was coming from the cable chains clunking from that instant decel when the gantry went all the way to the back. This seems....really high? I ended up going for a more conservative 25k and ran the 50 interation test with no issues. What kind of theoretical max accels do you guys see running these tests? Is 30k+ normal?

[Poisson]

I'm going to do a full video later as I didn't feel like setting my camera back up just now, but here's a partial:

 

This was 400mm/s (264 inner wall, 132 outer wall). 25k accel. 22 minutes. This is on a Dragon SF hotend with a standard 0.4 nozzle, so the flow rate on this setup has no business running at these speeds. It came out pretty damn amazing for what the flowrate could keep up with.

Edited November 11, 2022 by Poisson

[Poisson]

Definitely needs more cooling on the next try.

[Poisson]

I went to try and put some wood PLA through the Voron and it was just having a hard time pulling through the reverse bowden tube. I didn't realize it but the tube that came in my kit is a bit short:

That sharp bend is just too sharp for this rough PLA to be pulled through easily. Now I gotta wait till Sunday for a longer tube to come in from Amazon.

Edited November 12, 2022 by Poisson

[smirk]

5 hours ago, Poisson said:

gotta wait till Sunday

I feel your pain! It's amazing, the Grumpy Old Man in me reminds me in the olden days (when I were a child) you had to wait up to 28 (working) days for stuff to arrive. Now thanks to Amazon Prime et al with it's same-day/next-day delivery we're put out if we have to wait 48 hours!

Anyway,still a PITA, unless...... you use that ender? (in the back ground) as an "off-printer" spool holder orientated to give a straighter filament run.....but that's just probably too impatient.

[mvdveer]

16 minutes ago, smirk said:

you had to wait up to 28 (working) days

That is why I am still a grumpy old man - Welcome to Oz - order a 3D Print part and wait 28 days for delivery....

The joys of living down under. Well at least I got some Raspi's

[Poisson]

7 hours ago, smirk said:

I feel your pain! It's amazing, the Grumpy Old Man in me reminds me in the olden days (when I were a child) you had to wait up to 28 (working) days for stuff to arrive. Now thanks to Amazon Prime et al with it's same-day/next-day delivery we're put out if we have to wait 48 hours!

Anyway,still a PITA, unless...... you use that ender? (in the back ground) as an "off-printer" spool holder orientated to give a straighter filament run.....but that's just probably too impatient.

Well before I put a cardboard enclosure on that CR-10 I had built a little shelf behind it to hold a drybox that I kept my filament in and I would print directly out of the drybox to keep my petg and TPU dry. Going to try and get the shelf set back up (behind the Voron) and see if from the box to the Voron has a less bendy path and use that for now!

[Poisson]

About that bend in the reverse bowden tube causing issues. So it turns out trying to run that wood PLA clogged up my hotend something good. I couldn't get anything to go through it easily. Tried to clean it and I could eventually get plastic to come through by hand, but no matter what I did I couldn't get the extruder to push it without skipping. I even thought that something was wrong with clockwork and I completely dissembled it and re- adjusted everything and put it back together. Even after all that it seems like plastic was still having a hard time getting out of the nozzle even by hand. Eventually I couldn't get plastic to go through it at all by hand.

Well, eventually I fully dissembled the hot end and try to clean it out even more, eventually I discovered that it looks like there were a very slight separation between the bottom of the heatbreak and the part with the threads. Tried to push it back together and it being soft copper it broke in half.

On the bright side, I found this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SPZZKZT?psc=1&smid=A1LCDIR1SM8KTJ&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp

A lot cheaper than buying a whole another hotend, and I'm going to move up the HF version while I'm at it.

Edited November 13, 2022 by Poisson

[smirk]

Mr Bezos thanks you for your purchase  in his on-going struggle against to stave off poverty!

Guess there's always a danger of blockage or abrasion with these "filled" filaments but generally I think we always focus on the nozzles (bigger diameter or harder materials), so your post is a useful remind that there can be other casualties.

Also a good reminder to get some spares in. I've got the dragon HF hotend on my machines and I don't have any space heat breaks either!

 

[Poisson]

I did get the replacement heatbreak installed and stealthburner put back together yesterday and I am up and running again.

I have to say, the HF version of this heatbreak looks a little more strongly designed than the SF one:

 

Old busted SF version:

Edited November 15, 2022 by Poisson

[smirk]

That does look more solid, glad it arrived quickly and you're back to printing! Good news!

[Poisson]

Question for you guys. Inside stealthburner there is small piece of PTFE tube that sticks between the bottom toolhead and clockwork.2 Is this the same thickness as the reverse bowden tube, 4mm OD 2mm ID? Or is it thicker 4mm OD 3mm ID like found in bowden tube printer setups?

[claudermilk]

That piece should be 4mm OD, 2mm ID. The longer reverse Bowden should be 4mm OD 3mm ID to minimize friction.

[Poisson]

 

Built and added a dual Nevermore as well as 2 chamber recirculating / heating fans.

Edited November 20, 2022 by Poisson

[Buurman]

11 hours ago, Poisson said:

added a dual Nevermore as well as 2 chamber recirculating / heating fans.

Tht should circulate enough  I wonder, wont the side fans cool off your bed just a little more on already a more challenging place of the bed? I am thinking about using them too, but I just think I would like them more in hte middle instead of my nevermore filter (what I dont really need I think, I doubt its functionality tbh)

[claudermilk]

I've seen the quad-fan setup shared before. I'm not sure how necessary it is after seeing how quickly the single Nevermore Duo I have helps warm things up. Granted my printer is a 250, but it's surprising how the Nevermore accelerates the process.

[Poisson]

5 hours ago, Buurman said:

Tht should circulate enough  I wonder, wont the side fans cool off your bed just a little more on already a more challenging place of the bed? I am thinking about using them too, but I just think I would like them more in hte middle instead of my nevermore filter (what I dont really need I think, I doubt its functionality tbh)

So far I'm not sure if it is helping chamber warm up times, I'll need to do some real measured tests.

The one thing that feels wrong here. Nevermore pulls air from under the bed and pushes the air up through the front, while the other two fans pull air from the front and push it to the back under the bed. It seems like this is more likely to cycle air in the bottom of the chamber instead of all around the chamber.

[Poisson]

Well I now have my Chamber temperature going into my home assistant, and from there being funneled to Grafana. So later when I do chamber heating tests, I will have nice readable temperature graphs for everyone's viewing enjoyment!

[Poisson]

On 11/10/2022 at 1:28 AM, mvdveer said:

Very nice. The first of many to come no doubt.

Once you get your serial number, you should incorporate it into the model - that would be special and unique

So I got my serial number and decided to take your advice:

[mvdveer]

59 minutes ago, Poisson said:

So I got my serial number and decided to take your advice:

Love it and congratulations - good to have a 2.4XXX serial. Something special about it.

[Poisson]

I installed the chamber heater from here: 

 

 It was a day long project getting everything setup properly and making it work right in Klipper.

Not enough room in the rear extrusion to hide the wires. I had to run them out of the exhaust and down the back of the printer then back into the electronics chamber.