Voron 2.4 R2 Build Diary

[Poisson]

I forgot to mention the fun I went through yesterday with the extruder motor wiring in the hartk PCB. Specifically wiring the main connector for the wiring harness. So when I was testing all my motors in Klipper yesterday the extruder motor did not work, just made a noise and klipper threw an error.

Here's the pinout of the main connector:

Well when I wired it, I checked the pins for the stepper wires on the motherboard (S1B, S1A, S2A, S2B) and they did NOT match what he listed for the colors of the wires in this pinout. So I instead wired the connector to match the pins #s.

I was wrong. I rewired it following the colors of the wires mentioned and the extruder motor works fine.

Pretty annoying the the pin numbers are wrong in this diagram though.

Edited October 31, 2022 by Poisson

[Poisson]

Multiple choice question. How did I damage my thermistor?

Was it

A: I put it in Klipper as Generic 3950.

B: I tightened the set screw way too much.

or

C All of the above

New thermistor comes in tomorrow at least.

And my good Delta 5015 fan finally came in from Aliexpress, and since I've already got Stealthburner dissembled, I guess it's a good time to put that fan in.

Edited November 1, 2022 by Poisson

[mvdveer]

Ouch, Good thing is you found the problem. And on the positive side, you can now get the Stealthburner tip-top.

Thanks for sharing the mishaps as this will no doubly help someone else in future.

[smirk]

Save that and you can tell the grandchildren that it stopped a bullet when you were wearing it around your neck as a lucky talisman.

Yup, every day is a school day. As @mvdveer says it is good to share, helps remind us all how delicate these things actually are.

[claudermilk]

Ouch.  I quickly learned that the bolts need a lot less torque than I was used to in other projects.

[smirk]

Now @claudermilk that sounds like serious engineering talk

[Poisson]

I'm starting to worry about my crimp job with the main connector for the PCB for the wiring harness. I replaced the thermistor and it worked for a bit, till one of the wires in the main connector came slightly out. I got it back in but then found issues with the probe signal wire and then one of the extruder motor wires coming slightly out and both having issues till I re-inserted them.

Starting to worry when this thing gets up to speed all the pins won't all stay in the connector.

Edited November 2, 2022 by Poisson

[Poisson]

Well next fun problem. When I buzz or extrude the extruder motor it seems to sound like it is working, but it is not turning the gear in clockwork.

I know when I built clockwork I physically turned the gear and it engaged the motor. Not sure if I should tear it back apart and make sure the gear is engaging the motor still.

Edited November 2, 2022 by Poisson

[Poisson]

So the main problem seems to be with the motor itself. I've moved it as far away as it can go from the gear for testing purposes so it is not getting stuck and when I try to extrude or retract it does turn, but it is not smooth. It hesitates or catches while turning. I'm not sure what is wrong. I'm pretty sure my config is correct for it from what I can see online:

[extruder]
step_pin: PE2
dir_pin: PE3
enable_pin: !PD4
##  Update value below when you perform extruder calibration
##  If you ask for 100mm of filament, but in reality it is 98mm:
##  rotation_distance = <previous_rotation_distance> * <actual_extrude_distance> / 100
##  22.6789511 is a good starting point
rotation_distance: 22.6789511   #Bondtech 5mm Drive Gears
##  Update Gear Ratio depending on your Extruder Type
##  Use 50:17 for Afterburner/Clockwork (BMG Gear Ratio)
##  Use 80:20 for M4, M3.1
gear_ratio: 50:17               #BMG Gear Ratio
microsteps: 32
full_steps_per_rotation: 200    #200 for 1.8 degree, 400 for 0.9 degree
nozzle_diameter: 0.400
filament_diameter: 1.75

The motor is a LDO-36STH20-1004AH

Any advice on what to do from here?

Here's a video of what it is doing:

 

 

Edited November 3, 2022 by Poisson

[mvdveer]

2 hours ago, Poisson said:

When I buzz or extrude the extruder motor it seems to sound like it is working, but it is not turning the gear in clockwork.

Could be a problem with wiring. Trying swapping the middle two wires around and see if that fixes the problem.

 

Just saw your video - seems to be current - too little

Edited November 3, 2022 by mvdveer
Added comments

[mvdveer]

17 minutes ago, Poisson said:

Any advice on what to do from here?

In klipper under the stepper driver setting, Increase the run_current. 

Example:

 

[tmc2209 extruder] (Could be tmc2208 extruder, depending on your drivers)
uart_pin: PE1
interpolate: false
run_current: 0.5       
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 0

 

to

 

[tmc2209 extruder]
uart_pin: PE1
interpolate: false
run_current: 0.8
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 0

 

 

[mvdveer]

24 minutes ago, Poisson said:

The motor is a LDO-36STH20-1004AH

Seems the current for that particular motor is 1A.

[Poisson]

15 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Seems the current for that particular motor is 1A.

I figured it out. It's my crappy crimp job in the main wiring harness connector. If I push those wires in while the motor runs it runs smoothly.

I will also increase the run current though.

Edited November 3, 2022 by Poisson

[mvdveer]

18 minutes ago, Poisson said:

It's my crappy crimp job in the main wiring harness connector

My first attempt at the harness, I inserted the pins the wrong way round which meant the little protrusions that keeps it in the harness got flattened and as you insert the connector into the plug, the wires dislodged.

[Buurman]

9 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Seems the current for that particular motor is 1A.

But never use more than 80% of that value to run your motor in, it will surely overheat.

Somewhere between 0.5 and and 0.8 should work fine for the pancake motors, but since it cant cool very well, try to stick as low as possible, 0.5 is advised.

[claudermilk]

I'll pile on with the run_current check. I'm currently at 0.6 and ran between that and 0.4. I had some skipping issues at lower settings.

Also, since you appear to be running SB and CW2, you need to adjust gear_ratio to 50:10 for the new motor. The 50:17 is for the older CW1.

[Poisson]

It was an adventure today guys. Got every loose wire in the main connector recripmped with an old manual crimper I still had. Did loads better than the ratcheting crimper. Motor working fine now.

Then I ran into issues with it not wanting to extrude / skipping / etc. Eventually I got everything sorted it. it is extruding plastic successfully! and I calibrated rotation distance, which was about 1mm from what it was set to in the default file.

Tomorrow I am on to resonance compensation and then pressure advance.

Edited November 4, 2022 by Poisson

[smirk]

Good progress!

[Buurman]

Sounds good! Sounds like your printing

[Poisson]

 

First print success.

 

[mvdveer]

22 minutes ago, Poisson said:

First print success.

The start of many a print. What a good feeling it is, that after all that hard work, your efforts are repaid by a successful print. 

[smirk]

A milestone to be proud of!

[Poisson]

What kind of max accel do you guys use on your 2.4's? Input shaper recommended a max of 2100 to me, which seemed a little low?

[smirk]

I don't have a 2.4 but that does indeed strike me as very low for the acceleration. On my V0 and other printers the input shaper is generally recommending things in the 4-5 digit range. Think the lowest I've ever seen is 8k as a recommendation. I once tried the input accelerator on an old Tronxy X5 that i used to have and even that was doing a hell of a lot higher than 2.1k accelerator (granted the practical range was really around 4 - 5k). But your recommendation of 2.1k is low as far as I'm concerned.

Did you run a MEASURE_AXES_NOISE (see the Klipper Resonance instructions)? There could be a loose connection or perhaps even the accelerometer itself is loose (not securely mounted and vibrating too much).

[Poisson]

13 minutes ago, smirk said:

I don't have a 2.4 but that does indeed strike me as very low for the acceleration. On my V0 and other printers the input shaper is generally recommending things in the 4-5 digit range. Think the lowest I've ever seen is 8k as a recommendation. I once tried the input accelerator on an old Tronxy X5 that i used to have and even that was doing a hell of a lot higher than 2.1k accelerator (granted the practical range was really around 4 - 5k). But your recommendation of 2.1k is low as far as I'm concerned.

Did you run a MEASURE_AXES_NOISE (see the Klipper Resonance instructions)? There could be a loose connection or perhaps even the accelerometer itself is loose (not securely mounted and vibrating too much).

Could low x - y belt tension cause it as well? I haven't tried measuring belt tension yet which is now on my list.