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Voron 2.4 R2 Build Diary


Poisson

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I got the missing screws I needed and attached the lower z joints and then ran the Z belts. I also started running the X and Y belts.

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In order to get the final corner of the gantry to attach to one of the z joints I had to pull out about 3mm of the rear extrusion of the gantry of both sides. During assembly of this piece the instructions said for it to sit flush with A-B motor brackets:

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Was this okay? I'm not sure how else I could get the gantry to line up with all four  z joints.

KVP also finally shipped my ABS which should be here in a couple days.

Edited by Poisson
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image.thumb.jpeg.5dea928368f3e59f3587c48b2c8d4ca4.jpeg

Got the X and Y belts run and attached to the base of the toolhead. Man what a pain, it took me 3 youtube videos, the docs, and the CAD file to understand how the belts were run.

My kit did not come with the components for Stealthbruner, I had ordered a parts kit, motor and fans off of Aliexpress (my kit did come with a 4010 fan, but I'd rather not use that cheap junk in the toolhead). Parts kit / LDO motor came in yesterday and the 4010 Sunon fan should be in today. it looks like the nice Delta 5015 fans I ordered may have shipped by sea instead of air, so I may have to steal one of the 5015's off my current printer for the time being and replace it when they get here.

I also am using the KlickyNG probe which I started assembling yesterday but I am a couple screws short of finishing it, so off the hardware store later to try and find some.

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Well actually the part that came in was the Dragon hotend for my Formbot kit (dragon hot ends ship from china). I don't have any of the stealthburner parts in yet. Sounds like tonight I may be skipping ahead to doing the electronics.

Edited by Poisson
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Installed the cable chains and routed the wires through them today. Getting towards the end of what I can do till the parts for Stealthburner show up, other than the skirts and screen I guess.

Hopefully I don't have to run any additional wires for Stealthburner.

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For hiding the wires into the underside of the extrusion, maybe something simple like this to keep them tucked in there?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2838110

Just realized this will not work because of the belts running along the rear of the extrusion.

 

Maybe something more simple like these?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1561292

Edited by Poisson
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On 10/24/2022 at 6:39 AM, Poisson said:

Hopefully I don't have to run any additional wires for Stealthburner.

If you are using a PCB you won’t need additional wiring. If not you will need three wires for the LED’s connected to the stealthburner

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39 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

If you are using a PCB you won’t need additional wiring. If not you will need three wires for the LED’s connected to the stealthburner

Even with the PCB you don't need to run wires to the PCB? Or are the LEDs just always on, so they only need power from the PCB?

 

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3 hours ago, Poisson said:

Even with the PCB you don't need to run wires to the PCB? Or are the LEDs just always on, so they only need power from the PCB?

The LED’s will plug into the PCB socket and is controlled via macro’s. These macro’s will determine how they react. 

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I see that there are number of different options for having both a purge bucket / nozzle wiper, and klicky probe. There are different klicky probe mounts for the printer, and different places to put the purge bucket / nozzle wiper. What combination of these do you guys recommend?

I see this one

for example looks like it allows for the standard probe mount, and to leave your z endstop in the stock position?

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10 hours ago, Poisson said:

Skirts and screen in. Didn't realize the fans need to be wired together to the same port on the Octopus board, Guess I'll get out the solder core heat shrink tubes to attach them together.

image.thumb.jpeg.eb46feff907972e12fa8df7998d1c437.jpeg

You can use 2 ports for the fans, I always do, just adjust it in your printer.cfg, but you have more than enough ports available.

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10 hours ago, mvdveer said:

If you are using a PCB you won’t need additional wiring. If not you will need three wires for the LED’s connected to the stealthburner

Again, I learned something, never knew this but yes, it makes sense. So you DO save some wires, that maybe be worth goin to PCB from now on.. just ... maybe...

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8 minutes ago, Poisson said:

I see that there are number of different options for having both a purge bucket / nozzle wiper, and klicky probe. There are different klicky probe mounts for the printer, and different places to put the purge bucket / nozzle wiper. What combination of these do you guys recommend?

I see this one

for example looks like it allows for the standard probe mount, and to leave your z endstop in the stock position?

I always use this bucket, since it always bumps into the bucket on my builds, not with this one.

Next to this, I use the Klicky arm to the far left (so not the straight one) I like my Klicky to be on X0.

 

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28 minutes ago, Buurman said:

I always use this bucket, since it always bumps into the bucket on my builds, not with this one.

Next to this, I use the Klicky arm to the far left (so not the straight one) I like my Klicky to be on X0.

Thank you! This still mounts on the left extrusion correct?

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On my Trident I have Klicky on the left on the standard arm and the bucket on the right. With regular Klicky probe I leave it docked since it clears the bucket for the purge move. Right now using UnKlicky, and that's too tall, so I have to dock it right now.

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