Voron 2.4 R2 Build Diary

[smirk]

4 hours ago, Poisson said:

totally non scientific way of measuring things.

I would say there's no other way

[smirk]

16 hours ago, Poisson said:

linear rails

I can sympathise with your questions regards linear rails (and all the contradictory and confusing advice out there). Personally, I have found (by bitter experience) the best starting point is actual quality rails (if not absolute brand leaders like Misumi or Hwim) and it is ridiculously impractical (to nigh on impossible) to salvage a crappy rail. All these videos suggesting that with a bit of dissassembly and grease you can turn a rubbish rail into an adequate one have never worked for me. Even with spending more in quality replacement bearings and quality replacement grease (than the rails are worth) there's no real way to turn a crappy rail into a moderately less-crappy rail. Rubbish rails are rubbish raills. Sorry that's an old man grump

Fortunately the rails I've got from the VoronDesign suggested suppliers and in Formbot kits have been good enough in quality. Which means they haven't been stuffed with beef lard or drowned in 20//40 motor oil that they seem to load up the cheap rails with. For degreasing I just use IPA. With the quality rails I just have to wipe the rails down with a microfibre cloth (with IPA) and  in a situation where I have to strip things down I would soak the parts in  60/40 mix of water/IPA - I dilute the IPA just to make it go further (it's not cheap here in the UK) and make sure it's thoroughly dried. For lubrication less is more otherwise it just attracts dust and plastic particles. To be honest, in my experience, the good quality rails just need a light wipe down to remove the  film of oil over the suface which makes them nicer to handle (and prevents dust build up) and the addition of just enough lubricant (i.e. less than you might think) to lightly coat the bearings. I've not had to strip them down as they haven't been packed with grease or more worryingly full of metal swarf left over from the machining.

[claudermilk]

Cube looks good.

For cleaning rails, Nero has an updated video on this topic:

 

For mine, I cleaned them with IPA. Then carefully removed the carriages, packed grease into the bearing races, and wiped the rails down with grease. Then carefully put the carriages back on. 

[Poisson]

I did finally get to test fit my bearings in the voron cubes (probably should have done that before I started printing parts eh?) and they fit great.

[Poisson]

First bigger detailed pieces off the line, in a different color than what I calibrated on (did 0 calibration tests for this color other than running a cube to rough check things): One of the the matching z_drive_main and z_drive_retainer pieces. They look very good. I'm starting to feel pretty confident that everything is just going to come out great in either of the colors I am using.

Edited October 14, 2022 by Poisson

[Poisson]

I rough fit the frame today. I had to order a good machinist square which won't be till tomorrow so I can actually square the frame and tighten. Also was supposed to get some Mobilux EP2 in so I could clean and then grease the linear rails, but that hasn't come in yet either. Thinking about just using the super lube I have sitting around.

 

Edited October 15, 2022 by Poisson

[mvdveer]

Looks to be a good one this. Looking forward to the progress

[smirk]

Definitiely looking good, does the Mando helmet help when assembling stuff?

[Poisson]

7 hours ago, smirk said:

Definitiely looking good, does the Mando helmet help when assembling stuff?

Hah, I just finished painting that a couple days ago and haven't found a good place to put it yet. It's going to be part of my Halloween costume.

[claudermilk]

14 hours ago, Poisson said:

Thinking about just using the super lube I have sitting around.

That will work just fine. It's what I'm using. Pretty much any PTFE lube without graphite in it is what's recommended.

[Poisson]

Cleaned and lubed the linear rails. For some reason I thought it would be good a idea to remove the carts to IPA soak them and also better get the rail clean with them removed. When trying to put the carts back on the rails multiple carts lost bearings and I had to get them all back in with tweezers. What a pain. Lesson learned, don't remove the cart from the rail.

Now I just need the rail guides to print and I can put them on.

Other wise my z drives are almost fully assembled now.

Had one snafu with a heat insert, went in at an angle and messed up but I managed to correct it without having to reprint the part!

Edited October 16, 2022 by Poisson

[smirk]

9 hours ago, Poisson said:

good a idea

Been there as well The mechanical equivalent of the magic black smoke escaping....the little metal balls popping out. Over time I've gathered number of these plastic dummy "rails" which are loose enough not to push the balls out of their grooves but tight enough to make sure the balls don't pop out. I find they help greatly when sliding the carriages on and off the rails proper.

[Poisson]

Z drives and z idlers attached, A-B drives assembled. Waiting on part of the front idlers to finish printing now.

[mvdveer]

19 hours ago, Poisson said:

Had one snafu with a heat insert, went in at an angle and messed up but I managed to correct it without having to reprint the part!

It happens - therefor I have printed and assembled a heathery inset. A bit over the top but it ensures inserts go in at 90 degrees:

https://github.com/AdamV3D/Threaded-Insert-Press

 

[mvdveer]

Good progress and neat build. After building 3 Voron's and on the fourth what I learned is be patient and take your time. My first V0.1, I rushed because I was sooooo exited and it is not perfect. Good yes, perfect no - have had to print some replacement parts and rebuild the toolhead for example. Still some parts to change. Thinking of converting it to a Tri-Zero as well

[claudermilk]

It's a bit scary removing the carriages. I went very slowly and carefully during this step. I managed to not pop any balls out, but had everything on a shop towel just in case--make sure the little turds didn't go off on a big adventure if they did escape.

[Poisson]

Any recommendations for printing the clear and opaque parts of stealthburner? About to have all the X Y and Z parts finished printing and it looks like stealthburner is next on the list in the manual. Going to start on the non transparent pieces first, but I'll have to buy some transparent filament for the clear/opaque pieces and I've never worked with transparent before.

Edited October 17, 2022 by Poisson

[Poisson]

So this is the first time the docs don't seem to be matching up with something:

This calls for M3x20 SHCS, but M3X20s are too short, they don't even go all the way through printed lower Z joints:

Am I missing something or should these actually be M3x25 SHCS? Definitely no M3x25 in my kit though.

Edited October 18, 2022 by Poisson

[Poisson]

Otherwise here's where I am on the build:

[Poisson]

Well jokes on me, the the bag of M3X20 that came from formbot are labeled M3X20 but are actually M3x15, and there are no M3X20s at all.

[smirk]

Dear me! Never had issues with the formbot nut set myself, but that's annoying. I think we've all had moments where we've had similar experiences of trying to fit something that says it's the right part only to find they've changed the design or it's simply the wrong part althogether. Fortunately, it's something that's easily rectified now you've spotted the issue.

[Poisson]

What do you guys think about the https://github.com/hartk1213/MISC/tree/main/PCBs/Stealthburner_Toolhead_PCB hartk stealthburner 2 piece PCB for Stealthburner? Looks like a nice clean way to do the wiring here and make for easy disassembly if needed for the future.

Edited October 18, 2022 by Poisson

[claudermilk]

The hartk PCB indeed looks like a nice, clean way of setting it up. If I were building a new SB I'd probably go this route (SB was still beta, and hartk was still developing the PCBs when I built mine).

For the opaque LED part, any opaque filament will work. I just used my primary color for that. For the clear, any clear or translucent will work. I know some of the Voron team have mentioned using PLA, hot glue, and cut up bits of clear plastic film. I used "transparent white" Hatchbox (?) ABS which has worked great.

[Poisson]

That's a pretty sexy stealthburner front face.

[Poisson]

Getting towards the end of printing out all the functional parts, and almost at the end of my black ABS roll. Been waiting on KVP to ship me another roll for around 4 days now, hopefully they ship it soon.

Edited October 19, 2022 by Poisson