Voron Trident 350 extremely slow build

[mbunjes]

It's the first recommended fan. I'll first try a higher temperature and smaller retraction.

[Penatr8tor]

I would also try some PLA. Either Prusament or Polymaker, both are among the best. Get your printer to consistently print well with the easy to print filament first, then move on to ABS or the + variant. FWIW... ASA prints better, sticks better, is stronger and more heat and UV resistant that ABS so there's really no need to beat yourself up trying to print with something that's on the more challenging side.

[atrushing]

16 hours ago, mbunjes said:

It stops extruding mid print. It is a new build. I have had it clogging on first layers as well

I have found that some filaments seem to dry out the nozzle. After cleaning out a clog I have found that it helps to season the nozzle by dipping a length of filament in vegetable/canola oil and manually shoving it through the hotend/nozzle when it is at temperature. This works much like seasoning a cast iron pan and cooks a thin layer of lubrication into the nozzle bore.

[mbunjes]

Good idea. I used to have a small container with a sponge with a little oil that clipped on the filament of my Ender before it entered the extruder.

[mbunjes]

So I printed two EM blocks at 250 with 0.4mm retraction and the third this happened : it just stopped extruding

Edited February 17, 2023 by mbunjes

[claudermilk]

Ugh. Clog?

[Penatr8tor]

@mbunjes

It's clogging because you're over extruding. Here's what happens... You put down a layer and because there's too much filament exiting the nozzle it bulges up creating ridges that are higher or as high as the next layer so when your printer prints the next layer there is no gap between the current layer and the previous layer. As a result, each layer it gets worse until eventually it clogs. Reduce your infill percentage in your slicer and re-print. Repeat until you get good results.

This video really shows how having a 0.2mm gap allows for optimum flow. No gap=clog, Too much gap=poor layer adhesion and obviously, you're shooting for just right.

 

I just wanted to add... It probably appears as though we're all building these machines and they just print really nice right off the bat. Based on my experience... that couldn't be further from the truth. I just installed a Voron TAP on my 2.4 and I could show you about 20 20x20x10mm test cubes that I printed to get the printer dial in enough to print without issue and I still a some tuning yet to go. So don't think that what you're experiencing is something different that what the rest of us are or already have experienced. 

Good luck, keep hammering, you'll get there.

 

Edited February 17, 2023 by Penatr8tor

[mbunjes]

Looks like it...I did tune flow though. Oh wel. I'm waiting for a PTFE reverse bowden, turned out I had a FEP one.

13 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Reduce your infill percentage in your slicer

Don't you mean flow ? I should be able to print at any infill percentage, shouldn't I ?

[smirk]

On 2/17/2023 at 4:57 PM, Penatr8tor said:

This video really shows how having a 0.2mm gap allows for optimum flow. No gap=clog, Too much gap=poor layer adhesion and obviously, you're shooting for just right.

Curse you! That's an hour of my life I'm never getting back.Brilliant video though.

[Penatr8tor]

13 hours ago, mbunjes said:

Looks like it...I did tune flow though. Oh wel. I'm waiting for a PTFE reverse bowden, turned out I had a FEP one.

Don't you mean flow ? I should be able to print at any infill percentage, shouldn't I ?

Yes, Actually Width & Flow, I use Superslicer but the same rules apply for all slicers.

For first layer I adjust First Layer Flow Ratio (blue) for solid infill I adjust width (green)

Don't use those values in the example though, the screen shot is a stock SS profile. 

 

Here's what I do, generally...

I print my 1st layer at 30mm/s (yes, really slow) 0.2mm high (although I used to do 0.3mm). Typically perimeters whether 1st layer or subsequent ones after I don't have a problem with, sloid infill I usually have to adjust. So for 1st layer, try setting the width & flow for First Layer to 95%. Try not to change multiple settings. Change something, print it. If the 1st layer looks good at your current setting then watch and see how the next few solid layers print and see how the infill prints, etc. If you see something that's not right... then home in on the area and make changes accordingly. 

Here's a tip and it works pretty well for me... I print everything at 150-200 mm/s except for the 1st layer (30 mm/s), the outer perimeter (80 mm/s) and the top layer (80 mm/s). I feel it's a good balance between speed and quality.

[mbunjes]

It seems you have to visit the deepest corners of hell before the light starts to shine and suddenly everything comes together : perfection is getting nearer and nearer : 

[Penatr8tor]

2 hours ago, mbunjes said:

It seems you have to visit the deepest corners of hell before the light starts to shine and suddenly everything comes together : perfection is getting nearer and nearer : 

Yes you do LOL. It's definitely an iterative process. BTW, That's a nice looking part. 

So this is what I've experienced building a 3D printer... Much Joy while assembling all the mechanical components of the printer. The horror and frustration of wiring. The fear and anxiety of powering it up and getting it to home for the 1st time. The frustration of dialing the printer in. And after you get everything sorted... The sheer joy of having your printer work like an appliance where you click print and you can walk away. It's all part of the process. 

Good job!

[Buurman]

On 2/18/2023 at 9:47 PM, Penatr8tor said:

Here's what I do, generally...

 

Is this the infill you normally use?? Never used it to be honest, very star wars like...

[mbunjes]

3 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

The horror and frustration of wiring

Actually, I quite like the wiring. I'm a crimping god.

 

[Penatr8tor]

52 minutes ago, Buurman said:

Is this the infill you normally use?? Never used it to be honest, very star wars like...

It's one of the infills I use. It's Gyroid. Gyroid and Cubic are stronger than rectilinear. I like Cubic but the nozzle criss cross prints over lines it already printed on the same layer and I've had parts get knocked off so I use gyroid.

[Buurman]

39 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

It's one of the infills I use. It's Gyroid. Gyroid and Cubic are stronger than rectilinear. I like Cubic but the nozzle criss cross prints over lines it already printed on the same layer and I've had parts get knocked off so I use gyroid.

Exactly why I thought you used it...

I like Cubic, since its layers, just like Gyroid shift.. less hitting the infill with the nozzle, but I will give Gyroid a try, never used it, I think it was more for flex prints..

 

Grid is the one thats horrible... that can just sound like horror... 

[Buurman]

59 minutes ago, mbunjes said:

I'm a crimping god.

Get in line  Muahahaha!

[mvdveer]

6 hours ago, mbunjes said:

It seems you have to visit the deepest corners of hell before the light starts to shine and suddenly everything comes together : perfection is getting nearer and nearer : 

Very true, but isnt that part of the "fun" And persistence pays off - very good looking part. Well done

[mvdveer]

1 hour ago, mbunjes said:

I'm a crimping god.

So why are you tormenting me so........ Make me like crimping

[mvdveer]

2 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

It's one of the infills I use. It's Gyroid. Gyroid and Cubic are stronger than rectilinear. I like Cubic but the nozzle criss cross prints over lines it already printed on the same layer and I've had parts get knocked off so I use gyroid.

Going to switch to gyroid and see how that prints. Love this forum - lots of learning opportunities.

[mbunjes]

I know I should be tuning further, but damn...click print and walk away indeed :

[claudermilk]

Tune more? Those parts look great.

If you keep fixing it until it breaks you will regret it. Ask me how I know...

[mbunjes]

Well, I still haven't done input shaper, retraction, supports.....and the last print stopped extruding mid-print. And if I don't tune what's there to discuss here ?

[Penatr8tor]

21 minutes ago, mbunjes said:

And if I don't tune what's there to discuss here ?

Your next build and/or helping others using what you've learned.

 

[mbunjes]

10 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

Your next build and/or helping others using what you've learned.

Of course, but it won't be my own corner of the interweb.