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Enraged Rabbit Project


mvdveer

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Definitely a great help - I have been trying to print only what is required based on the buffer array suggested so this is saving me lots of print time. My parts kit(trianglelabs one) has just arrived in Canada an hour ago so hopefully after customs and all I should still get it this week.

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8 minutes ago, cobretti said:

Definitely a great help - I have been trying to print only what is required based on the buffer array suggested so this is saving me lots of print time. My parts kit(trianglelabs one) has just arrived in Canada an hour ago so hopefully after customs and all I should still get it this week.

Thats the one im also gonna get I guess... so curious what you think about it...

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2 minutes ago, Buurman said:

Thats the one im also gonna get I guess... so curious what you think about it...

Will let you know - also found this which looks interesting

mmu / ercf buffer 7 slot by Bollerofen | Download free STL model | Printables.com(remix) and bonus skadis mount - MMU Slot Buffer Skadis Mount by dtphantom | Download free STL model | Printables.com

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43 minutes ago, cobretti said:

also found this which looks interesting

Nice looking unit - just don't know how well it will work. Will stick to the intended design for now.

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Got the new TRCT sensor board, fitted it and the encoder working with preliminary tests. Should have time this weekend to start configuring the unit. By reading through the next steps, it seems it would be better if the unit is mounted in its position, as it needs to be loaded with spools of filament. The next step in the process. Off to work now.

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Strange how the mind works - we see what we want to see. Read the manual before assembly, then followed religiously.

Decided to read ahead before mounting the unit. Guess what I found - I do not have what is required to continue :

image.thumb.png.f0684396a4a023d5582c0e4f7735a738.png

Lets see if I can get 2.5mm ID tubing in a hurry. (i have got 20metres of 2mm ID - cause that's what I ordered initially!)

Got to find out what FEP is as well - first time I heard of this.

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Build Manual Pages92 - 102: First Checks, Servo Arm and Encoder Calibration.

All calibrations done - remember to read the manual again, and again and follow religiously.

Some reprinting as I blindly followed the manual and trusted the values in the config file for servo up and down as a start and then fine tune from there.                  DON'T do this!

image.thumb.png.a4363465bc44e6d569ba54f2dab48bed.png

According to this default for the Savox servo is Up-140 and Down-30. Servo up worked as expected - servo down - broke the servo arm. These were the values I ended up with:

image.png.7511190bf978a7f2b49a4d1f0cab33d0.png

I initially did the relevant checks without any Bowden tubing - just to get the hang of it all. Then fitted some Bowden tubing and wondered why everything went south. Because I used tubing with an internal diameter of 2mm, not 2.5 as recommended. Once I fixed this - tests completed without much trouble. Or so I thought......

I noticed that the belt of the gear motor was moving sideways on the pulley - not tight. Someone forgot to tighten the motor adjustment screws. Tightened the belt and the results were not what I expected - mmmmh.  Belt was too tight.

Tried again and this time all tests completed as expected.

Entered the new encoder value in the ercf_harware.cfg file. The manual I was using indicated to update the ercf_parameters.cfg file, though this section is no longer defined there, instead it was defined in the ercf_hardware.cfg file.

I assume this has changed with the recent update in the software.

Only sad thing - my rabbit eyes on the encoder does not blink at me. (Supposed to blink red when the encoder moves) This will be dependent on the brightness of the LED used on the TRCT5000 board. I can live with that.

IMG_4075.thumb.jpeg.44dd23ac9eff46e334921d6818b430d7.jpeg

Lessons learned from this section:

1. Test your servo angles - small increments at a time. Did I say small?

2. Ensure all belts are tightened prior to starting any testing

3. Ensure you have tubing with a 2.5mm ID

 

Next - Mounting the ERCF on the printer

 

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7 hours ago, claudermilk said:

he rabbit eyes don't blink at you? Trash! Throw it all out and start over! 

Who wants a wabbit blinking at you anyway..... 🤣

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Definitely have to follow this thread...sometimes I jumped ahead and then remembered @mvdveer said something about this and then I had to redo. Additionally don't be heavy handed - I had to reprint a few casualties 😁 . I should have printed a spare of each at the beginning to save me some time.

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Build Manual Pages 102- 107 Install

Work has been a bit hectic lately so not much time for fiddling with printers and the like.

Finally decided on the mounting and this has been completed. Happy with the results. Decided to go top mounts due to space constraints. Used these legs and 4X2020 extrusions (500mm length for 350 build). For the time being I am using this spool management system. There are lots of variations for this model (e.g.this, or this or this). The only reason I choose what I did, was because I already had 3 sets printed, in white for another project.

I am in the process of looking at designing a filament dry box to sit on the shelf.

Here are some pictures for those interested:

IMG_4081.thumb.jpeg.eda705f3a1704611bf83bbc89a4c9bbb.jpeg IMG_4082.thumb.jpeg.c8e039c6f2132360989d15da7ce99351.jpeg

Was too lazy to try and convert the stl file to a step file to change the 300 on the legs to 350 to suit my printer - it is on the todo list.

 

IMG_4084.thumb.jpeg.98f0a9c98dfc3b7b87ce537b14edf2a1.jpeg          IMG_4085.thumb.jpeg.acf9ae2a1de11c8be81489f3266d73ee.jpeg

ERCF Final Calibration and then hopefully testing this little fellow.

Next: Testing Filament swaps

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Another break in the build.

 

The Voron2.4r2 350mm build has developed an issue that needs to be resolved - Under extrusion. Testing the rotation distance is spot on - after 10's of tests. However during a print, it under-exctrudes. Have rechecked the Clockwork 2 extruder and seems to have some play in the main gear, put in a 5x1mm precision shim but made no difference. I used components that came with the formbot kit - don't think they are genuine Bondtech though.

Two options:

1. Rebuild clcockwork 2 with Bondtech gear - reprint, etc etc

2. Go with the original plan of the build and add either an orbitor 2 ot a LGC mini. Problem is the setup of the SB2040 canbus. (Has a breakout board mounted in the stealthburner that connects to the main CanBus board via pins- Has a breakout board in the stealthburner where the fans and LEDs attaches) . Have not found a solution yet. The search continues

Well - over to you @cobretti to take the lead. Seems you are winning the race to completion - looking forward to your progress.

Will be back !

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Really helped me a lot @mvdveer with parts and seeing where it goes.. 

I will go for the same setup since my spool system is hanging above my printer.

Thinking about changing the motors to moons, lets see first how the defaults work, and will order a original sensor.

Other things that I missed?

Noticed you didnt print the FILA shields? any reason, dont know myself what they are for, but it looks cool.

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37 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Go with the original plan of the build and add either an orbitor 2 ot a LGC mini

Go with a Sherpa! 😛 Mellow store has its own make on the Sherpa, I use it now and its awesome, it does differ a bit in dept, but nothing disturbing the build with the mini, There is a custom cover for it 😉

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9 hours ago, Buurman said:

Go with a Sherpa!

The problem is the tension screw is on the wrong side. Cannot mount the Mellow SB2040. Thought about it though.

 

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  • mvdveer changed the title to Enraged Rabbit Project

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