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My first Voron


Stadi

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5 minutes ago, smirk said:

I'm sure that rule #2 of the GOM manual!??

I sincerely repent great master of GOM. For my penance, I will build another Voron,modified to GOM standards

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3 hours ago, mvdveer said:

I must be a BIG sucker then. Read the Manuel front to back first, then again, then start the build religiously following instructions. Talk about OCD wii you?

Shh... 🤐  Not only did I read the manual a few times, I made notes in it. My reason (excuse) is so I APPEARED to know exactly what I was doing while building.

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On 11/13/2022 at 7:06 PM, Stadi said:

After the probe has struggled a bit, I'm now ready for it to homed XYZ without any problems and complete it without any errors with the manually attached probe QGL.

I also adjusted the Z offset according to the instructions.

Now I wanted to embed Klicky Probe, but apparently I'm too stupid for that or I can't see the forest for the trees.
Here's how I did it:
- uploaded the files klicky-probe.cfg, klicky-macros.cfg, klicky-bed-mesh-calibrate.cfg, klicky-quad-gantry-level.cfg and klicky-variables.cfg
- Entries in the klicky-variables.cfg adjusted
- Added [include klicky-probe.cfg] in printer.cfg

What is the problem:
when I restart after [include klicky-probe.cfg] in printer.cfg, Klipper reports the error: homing_override and safe_z_homing cannot be used simultaneously

If I now comment out safe_z_homing, Klipper starts without an error message.
At G28 it drives to the X and Y endstops and then directly to the Z direction, i.e. neither to the Z endstop nor to the dock

Really need your help, where is my mistake or where is something missing to make it work

hello there. I have the same problem. also scratched my bed.. how did you solve that? the simultaneous... problem?

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52 minutes ago, rickyspanish8 said:

hello there. I have the same problem. also scratched my bed.. how did you solve that? the simultaneous... problem?

Luckily I was able to break off before the bed got damaged

I deactivated the Z endstop in Printer.cfg

Under Z Stepper Settings changed the endstop pin to virtual

endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop

I'm not entirely sure if I've changed anything here

[probe]

#--------------------------------------------------------------------

pin: PG15
x_offset: 0
y_offset: 19.75
z_offset: 6.33
speed: 3
samples: 3
samples_result: median
sample_retract_dist: 1
samples_tolerance: 0.01
samples_tolerance_retries: 5

 

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1 hour ago, rickyspanish8 said:

hello there. I have the same problem. also scratched my bed.. how did you solve that? the simultaneous... problem?

When using Klicky, you need to disable the Safe_z_homing part in your printer.cfg.

#[safe_z_home]
##  XY Location of the Z Endstop Switch
##  Update -10,-10 to the XY coordinates of your endstop pin 
##  (such as 157,305) after going through Z Endstop Pin
##  Location Definition step.
#home_xy_position:231.5,350
#speed:100
#z_hop:5

I think because this gets replaced by code in Klicky.

I dont think you should disable your Z endstop, because there is cooperation possible between the both Klicky and your Z-endstop. 

https://github.com/protoloft/klipper_z_calibration

Did you follow the Klicky manual up to par? 

https://github.com/jlas1/Klicky-Probe/tree/main/Klipper_macros

This is whats needed to make it work as a minimum.

I can share parts of my config if needed, but I do also use the auto Z calibration mentioned above.

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after uncommenting that section. I cannot home my Z I updated the Z endstop location in the variable.cfg. not sure what am I doing wrong. 

here is my variable file  

and here is my printer.cfg

it is a trident 350mm with stealthburner and canbus with EBB36

 

any help would be really aprecciated. 

4 minutes ago, Buurman said:

When using Klicky, you need to disable the Safe_z_homing part in your printer.cfg.

#[safe_z_home]
##  XY Location of the Z Endstop Switch
##  Update -10,-10 to the XY coordinates of your endstop pin 
##  (such as 157,305) after going through Z Endstop Pin
##  Location Definition step.
#home_xy_position:231.5,350
#speed:100
#z_hop:5

I think because this gets replaced by code in Klicky.

I dont think you should disable your Z endstop, because there is cooperation possible between the both Klicky and your Z-endstop. 

https://github.com/protoloft/klipper_z_calibration

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15 minutes ago, Buurman said:

When using Klicky, you need to disable the Safe_z_homing part in your printer.cfg.

#[safe_z_home]
##  XY Location of the Z Endstop Switch
##  Update -10,-10 to the XY coordinates of your endstop pin 
##  (such as 157,305) after going through Z Endstop Pin
##  Location Definition step.
#home_xy_position:231.5,350
#speed:100
#z_hop:5

I think because this gets replaced by code in Klicky.

I dont think you should disable your Z endstop, because there is cooperation possible between the both Klicky and your Z-endstop. 

https://github.com/protoloft/klipper_z_calibration

Did you follow the Klicky manual up to par? 

https://github.com/jlas1/Klicky-Probe/tree/main/Klipper_macros

This is whats needed to make it work as a minimum.

I can share parts of my config if needed, but I do also use the auto Z calibration mentioned above.

That's it, thanks for the reminder.
I did that too and it didn't work, only when I switched to virtual endstop did it work.
However, this probably only applies to clicky without Auto_Z
For Auto_Z the manual endstop is needed again

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After about 100 hours of printing, an interim balance:
It was absolutely the right decision to build a Voron. What I'm most excited about is that I no longer have to worry about leveling, regardless of whether I'm printing on PEI or Blackprint GFK, simply put it on and the first layer fits, without adjusting any screws.

Things I noticed that I still need to/want to do:

  • For the door hinges I used the 270° version with a clamped door, which is rubbish, after each opening and closing the doors are positioned differently because the clamping is inadequate. Will first pack a VHB Tape for support, if that doesn't help other hinges
  • I've noticed a few times that the clipper screen on the 5" BTT display has a life of its own and changes the menus independently, I have no idea what that is and how I can fix it, suggestions are welcome
  • When I look at my front idlers, I get a bit worried that the ABS+ printet parts aren't really the best. I think sooner or later I will disassemble the box again and exchange all important printed parts made of ABS+ (complete gantry, Z-Drives) for parts made of PA12carbon. I'm in the process of printing these so I have them with me when the going gets tough. I don't feel like it, but I think it will come20221214_120825.thumb.jpg.1685d1e214d2eec6a677a67b04c52705.jpg20221214_120817.thumb.jpg.6af9d5104ee6787eac29f6d4d7ec8e1d.jpg
  • Haven't implemented/set up Auto_Z and Bed_Mesh_Leveling yet, haven't missed it yet, but it's definitely nice to have in the long run

I'll keep you up to date on how it goes

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6 minutes ago, rickyspanish8 said:

And THIS is the console output when I click on attach probe.  (Z home button is not working after Z safe homing deactivation.)  the printer just up the bed, and home Y and X. no more.

I've packed the relevant cfg from me in the attachment, just compare them.
Klicky Probe without Auto_Z, for Z-Home the Klicky is used

configs.zip

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1 hour ago, Stadi said:

When I look at my front idlers, I get a bit worried that the ABS+ printet parts aren't really the best. I think sooner or later I will disassemble the box again and exchange all important printed parts made of ABS+ (complete gantry, Z-Drives) for parts made of PA12carbon. I'm in the process of printing these so I have them with me when the going gets tough. I don't feel like it, but I think it will come

Its worth it to switch to the Ramalalalala Front Idlers, two screws is better than one, and totally different design for strength distribution, pins are needed though..

https://github.com/Ramalama2/Voron-2-Mods/tree/main/Front_Idlers

You can also find theme here in the downloads/mods section.

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1 hour ago, rickyspanish8 said:

And THIS is the console output when I click on attach probe.  (Z home button is not working after Z safe homing deactivation.)  the printer just up the bed, and home Y and X. no more.

A couple of observations:

 

In klicky-variables.cfg, variable_max_bed_y and variable_z_endstop_y are the same. My setup has the endstop outside the normal y max.

I have variable_park_toolhead set to False (I think default at the time of install)

The whole Y Homing section is not in my klicky-variable.cfg, so must be new.

In printer.cfg, again is the Y max the true physical max? I manually moved mine around and determined my Trident 250 had a Y physical max of 260. That allows the tool head to move off the back of the bed for Z endstop probing and the purge bucket & nozzle brush.

 

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6 hours ago, Buurman said:

Its worth it to switch to the Ramalalalala Front Idlers, two screws is better than one, and totally different design for strength distribution, pins are needed though..

https://github.com/Ramalama2/Voron-2-Mods/tree/main/Front_Idlers

You can also find theme here in the downloads/mods section.

 

30 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Will agree there - well worth the effort

I just printed it out of PA12 carbon, and I already mentioned that it's awesome stuff: it's super easy to print, has a great surface and is incredibly strong.

 

I just noticed that I still had the protective film on the touch display, I can well imagine that that was the reason for it having a life of its own 🙄🙈

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4 minutes ago, Stadi said:

PA12 carbon

Unfortunately I cannot source any Revo Obsidian (nozzles for abrasive material) - all out of stock. Printed my parts with ABS-PC, seems to hold up well. But I think Carbon is the way to go.

 

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8 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Unfortunately I cannot source any Revo Obsidian (nozzles for abrasive material) - all out of stock. Printed my parts with ABS-PC, seems to hold up well. But I think Carbon is the way to go.

 

Yes, a hardened steel nozzle is an absolute must, I don't change it either, I always have it on. I had the same thing with the Titan Aero on the Anycubic, you have to set an average of 10-20° more temperature.

A little tip: I couldn't get any adhesion on PEI, I use a GFK plate to hold it so bombastically that you almost can't get it off

 

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It was a bit of a difficult birth but Auto_Z is going 🤗

I was about to give up because the box always wanted to drill into the middle of the bed when I was home without the probe. At some point I found out that you have to enter XY of the Z endstop in the Klicky-Variables.cfg. I didn't read about it in any description, neither in Klicky nor in Auto-Z, or I didn't read it. Now it's working.

I also set up the Bed_Mesh.
how would you rate the result?

Mesh.thumb.jpg.9e47ec9a0d821eaf1f4593a585182344.jpg

 

######################################################################
# Print Start
######################################################################
#original#   Use PRINT_START for the slicer starting script - please customise for your slicer of choice
[gcode_macro PRINT_START]
gcode:
    G90                               
    G28 XY                         
    clean_nozzle
    Attach_Probe                      
    Attach_Probe_Lock                
    QUAD_GANTRY_LEVEL                
    G28                              
    Dock_Probe_Unlock                  
    Dock_Probe                        
    G90                            ; absolute positioning
    G1 Z20 F3000                   ; move nozzle away from bed
    status_printing
    clean_nozzle
    CALIBRATE_Z
    BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD="default"
    PRIME_NOZZLE
    G0 X150 Y200 F3600

How can I tell if it uses the mesh when printing? I call it in Print_Start.

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You can add a "BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD" command to your PRINT_START routine or even into your slicer's GCODE.  When you originally do the "Heightmap" thing you have the option of giving it name (otherwise it defaults to a name of "default") and looking at your screen-shot you have the name "default" for your bed mesh. Therefore if you add:

BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default

to your PRINT_START macro or your slicer's GCODE the printer will activate the appropriate bed mesh.

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