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My first Voron


Stadi
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Hey guys,

in the Introduction threat I was asked to let you participate in the construction of my first Voron. I hope my Google English can be understood to some extent without laughing to death.


A Voron 2.4r2 with 300mm is planned. The following mods should be integrated immediately:

  • Stealtburner with Clockwork2
  • PCB board for print head
  • Klicky Probe
  • BIGTREETECH PI TFT50 V2.0 with Klipperscreen or Octodash (which would you recommend?)
  • LED case lighting (can I control the stripes directly from the board?)
  • Webcam (Logitech)

The basis is the kit from Formbot. Parts are mostly on the way and my Anycubic i3 Mega S is already busy printing the parts.
The main color is printed in black from Esun ABS+. The accent color will be silver, either made of ABS+ by Esun or ASA by Extrudr. I will print the parts of the X-Carriage and the Stealtburner out of PA12carbon.

If I don't forget to take pictures in between, I'll be happy to show them to you and keep you up to date.

 

Edited by Stadi
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Looks like Formbot has a nicely specced kit now. That's a good start.

I would suggest waiting on most of the  mods at first. Go ahead and build the Stealthburner & Clockwork2--you have to make a toolhead anyway and the SB LEDs can be handled later with the rest of the LEDs.

For the screen, I'd suggest KlipperScreen. It's not too hard and just works. Both Nero 3D and Steve Builds have streams where they installed it. I followed Steve (live) and later reviewed when I got to that part. It was pretty painless. I'm using the Waveshare 4.3" screen, but the install should be about the same (DSI to the Pi).

LED case lighting I handled later, and used WS2812B strips which I plugged in to the Octopus BL Touch port after much research. The SB LEDs are in the NeoPixel port. I spent quite a while learning how to get macros set up for it, but that was as much learning Klipper macro and Jinja2 syntax.

Klicky Probe is a fantastic mod, but it takes some work to get everything running. I strongly suggest get the printer working with the inductive probe first. Then tackle Klicky.

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Danke für Deine Einschätzung.
Die Gehäuse LED sollen nur einfache weiße Stripes werden, keine RGB. Einfach an 24V, entweder über das Octopus oder direkt über einen mechanischen Schalter.
Klicky Probe plane ich in der Tat erst zu integrieren wenn der Voron mit dem Induktiven läuft.

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The first packages arrived today

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I was a bit negatively surprised by the chaos in the packaging, but nothing seems to have been damaged

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A Pi is currently not included, but the SD card is included.
I ordered the kit with Dragon Standard Hotend, this was apparently not available in the EU warehouse and comes from China. Nevertheless, a V6 hotend was in the box.

What are your experiences with the heating mat and the fans from Formbot, are they any good?

Now it's time to continue printing parts, the Anycubic doesn't cool down at all, and then construction can begin

 

 

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I have build both a self sourced and formbot kit of the V0. I found the formbot kit quality good and adequate hardware to complete the case. My kit came with stainless bolts and plenty of it. The kit was supplied with a 24V heating pad and seems good quality. The fans are quiet enough and fit for purpose.

Enjoy the build

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I build this kit all the time, since I sell them afterwards to people who dont have the time or skills to build them themselves.

I like the kit, I do always change some things to the build, but most things you already did.... LCD touch, Klicky, SB with SW2.

They are ok quality, but I do use a Fermio wiring kit half of the time, its way more durable, and thinner,lighter.

I enjoy the kit very much and never had damaged goods in the kit.

just did have wires breaking in my latest kits, the hotend heater wires, I understood the cable manufacturer used a new coating that made them break.. (its been fixed for future kits)

I received 3 new wire kits for free, but I had a lot of spare wiring, since I often use the Fermio wire kits (general, LED wires and leds kit.)

 

Enjoy the build, if you have any questions, well... I keep an eye on the thread 😉

Edited by Buurman
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The Fermio cable set was sold out, it was available again yesterday and I ordered it.
Are you using the PCB board on the SB? Does the cable set fit or do the plugs have to be changed?
I'll be happy to come back to the offer of help, probably at the latest when it comes to the software / firmware, because that's completely new territory for me

Edited by Stadi
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That would be great. I would like to learn and try to adapt everything myself but to have working files to compare.
So far I've been using Cura as a slicer, unfortunately the profiles for Cura have probably been deleted from Github.

With the Klicky, I'm not sure yet whether I'll install it directly or set up the Voron with the standard first and then integrate the Klicky later

Edited by Stadi
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Start using Superslicer, they have a full klipper engine.

I am able to send you a backup of my profiles, it may give you a better start. These are also based on best practices and then tuned a bit..

Superslicer is  very nice slicer, I still have Cura on my PC (I think) but never use it anymore, its easy to find things with the search option, in the beginning very handy.

The Klicky is ok to start with I think, I did it too, but dont go directly to the auto calibrate Z .. its easy when you get it, but no, would start without.

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I will definitely take a look at the Superslicer and familiarize myself with it, it would make sense to use it with the Voron and Cura for the Anycubic, the profiles now fit quite well.
Would be great if you could send me a backup of your profiles for the 300 2.4.

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Small update: the Z-Drives have been mounted

In the meantime, learned a lesson: just because a lot of people show something on Youtube doesn't mean it's right. Specifically, it's about the linear guides. I watched some cleaning and lubricating videos where the carriage was always taken off the track, rinsed with isopropanol, lubricated and put back together. Big mistake! It took me quite a while until I put all the balls back together and fumbled them in. Later I read at Formio that under no circumstances should you take the car off the track and that you would even lose the guarantee.

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So far I've been enthusiastic about the accuracy of my printed parts, so all the tinkering on the Anycubic was worth it

 

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3 hours ago, Stadi said:

So far I've been enthusiastic about the accuracy of my printed parts, so all the tinkering on the Anycubic was worth it

It will pay off when you come to printing with this machine. Accuracy is key to a good first print. Tuning then perfects it

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Be very patient when mounting the gantry, leave all bolts reasonably loose, since you want it to find its own place.

For sure you are gonna need to give it more length on the back (i always need to) and just let it find its way, then move everything so it feels smooth, and after that, you are going to try and make it straight, not the other way around.. 

At least, this is how I gotten the best and smoothest running machines, and ofcourse square.

 

Looking good and wishing you patience with the rest!  

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After a few days, the construction has continued today. I made good progress, unfortunately I noticed after work that I had prepared the straps in the wrong direction on the gantry, thank God nothing serious and so far the only misinterpretation of the instructions.
The printing of the parts is also coming to an end, at the moment the Stealthburner parts made of nylon carbon are still printing, then the good old Anycubic can take a break

20221028_183331.thumb.jpg.f919248a6651a76a4b674c149e4f6792.jpg

 

20221028_191251.thumb.jpg.27c12b17e246e291cdfbf804f4714801.jpg

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2 minutes ago, Stadi said:

made good progress, unfortunately I noticed after work that I had prepared the straps in the wrong direction on the gantry,

It's all part of the experience 🤪 I continually remind myself to double check, re-read the instructions, test-fit things and even with that I've fitted a number of things the wrong way round....that's probably me though....but it is rather inevitable at some point

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That reassures me that this is probably normal 😅

I just disassembled and realigned the whole gantry because I noticed after installation that I had a minimal misalignment of the two Y-profiles. It probably wouldn't have mattered, but it bothered me.

How do you do that with the belt tension? What criteria do you use to set them up and check that they are all the same?

 

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16 minutes ago, Stadi said:

How do you do that with the belt tension? What criteria do you use to set them up and check that they are all the same?

https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/Kruppes/Tension_Meter

Its on this forum too btw: 

 

I try to find the PETG version also...

Print these in PETG if possible, 6mm and 9mm. DIT, oh link is another version than I had before, this is a ABS version.

I think I had a 6mm and 9mm version before in PETG, think those should work a little better.. 

Absolute did wonders for me, dont even go the path of measuring sounds from your belts... hahaha!!

Edited by Buurman
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9 minutes ago, Buurman said:

JAWOHL! ah, konnte es nicht finden, muss es aufbewahren, weil ich meins mit einem Drucker verschenkt habe.

Vielen Dank! Ohne geht es nicht!

 

Is already in the queue of the Anycubic 😁

How tight do you put the straps, on the middle of the scale?

 

Edited by Stadi
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Is it possible that the attachment of the belts to the X-carriage is not described?
In a Youtube video I saw that the parts "[a]_belt_clamp_x2.stl" are used for this. However, these are neither mentioned in the instructions nor are they part of the STL collection

Edit: Anyone who can read has a clear advantage, the belt is probably clamped on the linear carriage when the X-carriage is assembled 🥺

Edited by Stadi
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