My first Voron

[Stadi]

First signs of life and completely without white smoke 

Klipperscreen is running and the temperatures are already being displayed correctly

For Vorondesigns Initial Setup step, I have a few ambiguities:

Since I already installed the Klicky Probe, I assume that I have to proceed differently in the following sections than described in the instructions

• Inductive Probe Check

•  

  Quad Gantry Level

•  

  Z Offset Adjustment

Unfortunately, I have no idea how best to proceed here and in what order without causing a crash right away.
Maybe someone can help me with that, a link to a guide for dummies would help

 

 

[mvdveer]

1 minute ago, Stadi said:

Since I already installed the Klicky Probe,

The only adjustment you need to make is the X an Y offsets to reflect the position of the Klicky probe. (and obviously the pin the probe is connected to)  QGL should not be affected (maybe probing points may have to be changed slightly) , by the type of probe nor Z-Offset adjustment. I would recommend looking at automatic Z Calibration as this eliminates the need to manually adjust the Z offset:

See: https://github.com/protoloft/klipper_z_calibration

 

	x_offset: ???                    # how far is the probe in a positive or negative direction from the nozzle
	y_offset:  ???                         # how far is the probe in a positive or negative direction from the nozzle
	speed: 10.0
	samples: 3
	samples_result: median
	sample_retract_dist: 3.0
	samples_tolerance: 0.006
	samples_tolerance_retries: 3

 

[claudermilk]

It's alive!

For Klicky vs inductive, I think the initial test would be similar--just manually attach the probe and run the basic test by pressing the switch to see if it shows triggered and not. I also test with the probe detached to make sure it fails triggered.

QGL should be the same--just using the Klicky version instead. So in klicky-probe.cfg make sure that include is uncommented (and the klicky-z-tilt-adjust one is commented or removed). You need to use the Klicky version because it adds the attach and dock macro calls.

I use the protoloft z-calibration as it's great. The main thing there is get your xy positions set for probing the nozzle & switch on the z endstop pin, and the switch_offset value. Once that's set you shouldn't ever have to touch this again.

[Stadi]

Thank you for your answers. I'm now so far that he successfully homed XYZ, went surprisingly smoothly.
I'm trying to figure out what I have to adjust in which CFG so that it fits my build, not that easy if you haven't done much with it before.
But it will be fine, I will definitely remove the PEI plate at the first QGC

[Stadi]

After the probe has struggled a bit, I'm now ready for it to homed XYZ without any problems and complete it without any errors with the manually attached probe QGL.

I also adjusted the Z offset according to the instructions.

Now I wanted to embed Klicky Probe, but apparently I'm too stupid for that or I can't see the forest for the trees.
Here's how I did it:
- uploaded the files klicky-probe.cfg, klicky-macros.cfg, klicky-bed-mesh-calibrate.cfg, klicky-quad-gantry-level.cfg and klicky-variables.cfg
- Entries in the klicky-variables.cfg adjusted
- Added [include klicky-probe.cfg] in printer.cfg

What is the problem:
when I restart after [include klicky-probe.cfg] in printer.cfg, Klipper reports the error: homing_override and safe_z_homing cannot be used simultaneously

If I now comment out safe_z_homing, Klipper starts without an error message.
At G28 it drives to the X and Y endstops and then directly to the Z direction, i.e. neither to the Z endstop nor to the dock

Really need your help, where is my mistake or where is something missing to make it work

[Stadi]

 

I got it 
I hadn't understood that you practically deactivate the Z-endstop and use the Klicky for it 

Next I'll deal with bed mesh leveling

 

 

[smirk]

Well done! This klicky probe thing is deceptively simple but complex (or is it the other way around?!)

[Buurman]

Next step, auto offset? 

Read the manual very well, you measure the BASE of your clicky switch on the Z Endstop, then the nozzle, then the bed with klicky.

The only thing you need to input is the switch_offset, what means, how far does the switch button needs to be pressed to activate. This will be your only setting ever to input, if you are switching nozzles, doesnt matter, always perfect offset.

The switch_offset parameter, the higher it is, the closer the nozzle goes to your bed, good to remember, normally you end up somewhere on 0.40/0.47 since the switches are almost always the same.

protoloft/klipper_z_calibration: A Klipper plugin for a self calibrating z offset / first layer

[Stadi]

I've already looked at auto offset but I'm not sure if I'll do it now or later. I'm so happy that it works like this now and I don't want to shoot it up. I'll take a closer look tonight when I've calibrated the extruder and pressed the first filament onto the bed 

[Stadi]

This part is slowly starting to annoy me
After yesterday's success, I calibrated the extruder today and started the first calibration print, 5 squares with a height of 0.2mm, to check the level.
The printer homed, dropped and retrieved the probe, ran through the QGL, and then printed.
Since the level didn't quite fit yet, I adjusted the probe offset in the printer.cgi, saved it and restarted.
Now I wanted to try again but the Voron didn't:
Er Homed, QDL aborts with the error message below.
I've also observed that the display in the clipper screen changes the menus.
What problem do I have now? Why was there no problem with the QDL before and now it no longer runs without errors?

[smirk]

39 minutes ago, Stadi said:

I adjusted the probe offset in the printer.cgi, saved it and restarted

The previous printer config should still be there if you did the editing through the web interface (as printer.cfg.yymmddhhmm). Unless the error is a bit of a red-herring (and is really trying to say something else) I would revert to the previous (known good) printer.cfg file and make sure it works as expected, just in case you make some other accidental change. Speaking from experience, it's not the first time I've accidentally deleted too many lines, mistyped something or generally mucked up a config. Assuming it works as expected, then try the probe off-set edit again. I'm probably being overly cautious paranoid, but the error strikes me as being disproportionate for the nature of the edit.

[claudermilk]

Was the bed temperature stable? If it's heating up during QGL ot Z-tilt it can cause that error. I'd just restart the print and try again.

[Stadi]

4 hours ago, claudermilk said:

War die Betttemperatur stabil? Wenn es sich während der QGL- oder Z-Neigung aufheizt, kann dies diesen Fehler verursachen. Ich würde den Druck einfach neu starten und es erneut versuchen.

The bed had been heating up for quite a while, that can't have been it. Oddly enough, everything works again today, both cold and hot. Maybe he just needed a break 

[Stadi]

Since the QGL worked today, it was time for the first print with the standard Cura profile.
I think it looks quite acceptable for the first print with no tweaking of the profile 

But there is still a lot to optimize, starting with Print_Start:
- Warm up
- Homen
- Attach Klicky for Z
- Dock Klicky
- attach Klicky
- QDL
- Dock Klicky
- Homen
- Attach Klicky for Z
- Dock Klicky
- Start printing

But now I will continue to build and complete the hardware.
When it comes to the whole macro optimization, I'm sure I'll annoy you a few more times because I have very little idea here and still have a lot to learn 

 

I have two more questions for you:

1. Where did you install which camera? I have a Logitech C920 and the only place I found was in the top front so it doesn't get in the way, other than a moving print head you can't see it.
2. Which filament sensor do you use and how did you attach it?

 

[mvdveer]

35 minutes ago, Stadi said:

1. Where did you install which camera?

I installed a pi camera in the bottom front right corner - not ideal and would personally not recommend it. Looking to change this. 

Here are some mounts for a C920 camera:

 

 

 

41 minutes ago, Stadi said:

Which filament sensor do you use

That is the ONE mod I still have not done! Can you believe it?

[smirk]

1 minute ago, mvdveer said:

That is the ONE mod

Only one?!

[Stadi]

11 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

That's the version I have, isn't bad and seems real, it's the only position where the camera doesn't get in the way in any way. The Pi-Cam in the corner isn't bad either, but doesn't like the dsi cable that much.

16 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

That is the ONE mod I still have not done! Can you believe it?

Are you serious? 

[Stadi]

Another question: How did you route the exhaust fan cable? Somewhere on the inside of the exhaust housing and then through the profile or outside in a small cable duct?

[mvdveer]

27 minutes ago, Stadi said:

outside in a small cable duct?

Outside in a small cable duct.

 

There is a connector in the duct for easy removal of the back panel.

[mvdveer]

32 minutes ago, Stadi said:

Are you serious? 

Sadly yes 

[claudermilk]

For the exhaust fan I went ghetto and just used some kapton tape to stick the wire to the back panel then stuck it through an opening in the skirt. I should probably print up a small cable channel and stick that down to clean it up a bit better.

I have the laptop OV5648 webcam on my printer about the same place as that Logitech mount. It's up out of the way but the angle leaves something to be desired. You do get a bird's eye view of the bed, but the tool head gets in the way a lot. It's also useless for seeing exactly what's happening at the nozzle. I'm thinking about a second similar camera and mount it to the back AB motor rail to try and get an angle showing what's happening at the nozzle. That would be more useful for something like Obico and trying to intercept a spaghetti or blob monster from getting out of hand.

[Stadi]

I've now decided on the BTT Smart Filament Sensor, don't know how to integrate it into Klipper yet, but it must be a bit of a challenge 
I replaced the fans from the Formbot Kit, which scream like a circular saw, with whisper-quiet 60x60x25 from Noctua, a dream even at full throttle. I also gave the Pi an active cooler.

I think the electrical compartment is (for now) finished. Did you actually mount the cover of the compartment or do you leave the compartment open?

[smirk]

Personally, even with fans I like to keep things open to keep the air circulating. However,I live in Scotland which is now a sub-tropical country with no AC.

Looking at the picture of the electronics bay (very neat BTW) I would not say there was not going to be  great through flow of air since there is all that ducting and large static lumps of electronics. That's the design. However, I wouldn't enclose it if it was my printer.

[mvdveer]

1 hour ago, Stadi said:

I've now decided on the BTT Smart Filament Sensor, don't know how to integrate it into Klipper yet

Enter this section in your printer.cfg file:

[filament_motion_sensor BTT_sensor]

detection_length: 7.0

extruder: extruder

switch_pin:PD10                                    #change to the correct pin that it is connected to on your board

pause_on_runout: True

 

Hope this helps

 

[Stadi]

1 hour ago, smirk said:

Personally, even with fans I like to keep things open to keep the air circulating. However,I live in Scotland which is now a sub-tropical country with no AC.

Looking at the picture of the electronics bay (very neat BTW) I would not say there was not going to be  great through flow of air since there is all that ducting and large static lumps of electronics. That's the design. However, I wouldn't enclose it if it was my printer.

I also tend to omit the cover, you can't unintentionally reach into it when the printer is standing and in the beginning you will certainly have to turn it on from time to time

58 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Enter this section in your printer.cfg file:

[filament_motion_sensor BTT_sensor]

detection_length: 7.0

extruder: extruder

switch_pin:PD10                                    #change to the correct pin that it is connected to on your board

pause_on_runout: True

Hope this helps

Many thanks for that. I'll try it out, but the holder for the sensor in the printer is still running. If I understand that correctly, the printer goes into "pause" when the sensor is triggered, right? The aim will be that it executes a (not yet available) M600 macro