My first Voron

[Buurman]

Yes middle of the scale should be a good tension, and they really react on every move. Getting them the same tension is most important.

[Stadi]

 

Pulling and tightening the straps worked great.

It continued with CW2

Dragon ST Hotend direct with hardened nozzle for carbon

crimping the JST connectors will definitely not be my favorite activity 

By the way, I've already set up the Pi with Mainsail, Klipper, Klipperscreen and Cam

 

[mvdveer]

Coming together very nicely. You will have so much fun with this. Keep enjoying the build and keep them photos coming - love it

[smirk]

Definitiely look good, and that wiring looks nice and tidy.

[Buurman]

absolutely looking great! I like the color (or lack of color) I will also build a 3 shades of gray version in the future with sparkle ASA

 

Its codename would be ... "3 shades of gray" ...

Edited November 3, 2022 by Buurman

[claudermilk]

Looking good. With the SB LEDs done, you've finished the worst of the crimping. Those tiny wires sucked, but made the rest feel easy.

[claudermilk]

2 hours ago, Buurman said:

absolutely looking great! I like the color (or lack of color) I will also build a 3 shades of gray version in the future with sparkle ASA

Its codename would be ... "3 shades of gray" ...

I can suggest Sparta Cloud Grey Sparkle. It's "just" ABS+ but it sure looks good. That's my accent color (and the SB front color).

[Stadi]

The accent color is silver, unfortunately it doesn't come across so well in the pictures. I used ASA silver from Extrudr for this.
I also got a roll of silver ABS+ from eSun and was disappointed, it's just an ugly gray with no hint of silver.
I like the combo very much because it's quite subtle, I don't really like these brightly colored Vorons, for me it's something of a toy

 

Will convert the wiring harness from Fermio to the Molex connector for the PCB today, I'm looking forward to fiddling with the little things 

[Stadi]

When adapting the wiring harness from Fermio to the SB-PCB, I doubted myself. I couldn't find the Probe signal wire on the board side with the continuity tester.
At some point I noticed that there was a resistor soldered into the line and the continuity tester was therefore not beeping. 
Do I need this resistor at all if I use a Klicky probe?

[smirk]

11 hours ago, Stadi said:

Do I need this resistor at all if I use a Klicky probe?

I would say "No", I certainly don't have one on my build. The Kilick probe is "simply" a (on/off) switch as far as electronics go. I imagine the resistor there was to limit current and protect a lower voltage (3.3v or 5v) input pin from the higher voltage (24v) that the probe needs to run. Depending on the control board some naturally step down the voltage (i.e. on-board to themselves) on the input pin for "high voltage" probes.

[Buurman]

It’s a diode so it only works one way.

but no it’s not needed, on the octopus board I use the diode and run 5v+ through it to the signal. The octopus board is designed to handle this on the probe port alone. It simply works better because it’s not so sensitive to some resistance coming of the magnets/contact. But it’s your decision how you want to do this. I think I have ~!pb7 in my config file. I will check in my printer later.

[Stadi]

Another small update: The electrical side is set up and the 230V side is mostly wired. Does the orientation of the octopus have a deeper meaning? I installed it rotated 180° as described in the instructions because I think it makes more sense for the wiring. I will also turn the Pi by 90°

I also personalized the SB a bit. Small quirk of mine, so far every print head had

 

 

[smirk]

"vorsprung durch technik" I like it! I would say the orientation of components is simply a matter of wire loom routing. If you are using a pre-made harness then you possibly have limited options (you have to orientate parts depending on what the loom expects), if you have made your own wiring then you have much more freedom. Wiring is more an art than a science (beyond some basic guidance e.g. trying to separate power from data where possible), and whatever works and looks attractive (to you) then that's good!

[mvdveer]

4 hours ago, Stadi said:

Does the orientation of the octopus have a deeper meaning?

Short answer: No

You can orientate it as it best fits your layout and wiring as @smirk has eluded to. With the pi, just remember you need to get a USB cable attached, that may impact the orientation (For input shaping as example), and if you are going to connect the octopus board to the pi via USB and not UART

[claudermilk]

Looks good. IMHO that orientation for the Octopus makes more sense. All the high voltage wiring is at the same end with the power supply.

[Stadi]

Perfect, then I'll leave the arrangement as it is. Cables that are not enough are made new. I remade the 230V wiring anyway so that they fit exactly in length. The wiring harness to the Fermi printhead seems to be long enough anyway

 

[Stadi]

The cable channels fill up.
Wiring harness to the Hotend is in and connected, I'm curious what won't work or if smoke is rising somewhere 

Don't laugh at me, but where can I find the port designation of the board connections that I have to enter in Printer.cfg? So far I've only found plans with names that don't match those in Printer.cfg, for example J123

[mvdveer]

Looks like an octopus board. Here is a link to the pinout diagram:

https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-OCTOPUS-V1.0/blob/master/Hardware/BIGTREETECH Octopus - PIN.pdf

Also attached the file for your info.

According to the GitHub page the latest version can be found here:

https://www.facebook.com/download/526817998687953/BIGTREETECH Octopus V1.0 - PIN.pdf

(Link doesn't work)

BIGTREETECH Octopus - PIN.pdf

[Stadi]

Thank you very much, I had already seen the diagram but not the pin designations, apparently I need new contact lenses 

Edited November 8, 2022 by Stadi

[mvdveer]

4 minutes ago, Stadi said:

Thank you very much, I had already seen the diagram but not the pin designations, apparently I need new contact lenses 

The problem is the writing on those diagrams are so small, you need a magnifier to see it. I normally open it in a PDF viewer so I can Zoom in to the max. 

[Stadi]

10 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

The problem is the writing on those diagrams are so small, you need a magnifier to see it. I normally open it in a PDF viewer so I can Zoom in to the max. 

Yes, with a zoom factor of 250% it is easy to read 

Good that I have a laptop in the workshop next to it 

[Stadi]

Another question: Where would you connect the LED for the housing? It's a simple white stripe with 24V. I read somewhere that you can use the "Bed_Out" (PA1) for this. Originally, I had already considered operating this via a manual switch

[mvdveer]

13 minutes ago, Stadi said:

Another question: Where would you connect the LED for the housing? It's a simple white stripe with 24V. I read somewhere that you can use the "Bed_Out" (PA1) for this. Originally, I had already considered operating this via a manual switch

If you are using the octopus board you can connect it to the HE1,2 or 3 outputs;

Then in printer.cfg add:

 

[output_pin Chamberled]       #can replace ChamberLED with any name you want
pin = PA3                     # if using HE1, or PB10 for HE2 or PB11 for HE11
pwm = True
cycle_time = 0.0100
hardware_pwm = True
value = 0.05                # will determine brightness at startup 1= full, 0 = off
shutdown_value = 0

You will then have the ability in mainsail to turn this on or off and no need for a physical light switch.

[claudermilk]

I'm curious, your HE0 has the ground wire connected, but I don't see the positive. Where's your hotend heater connected? 

Vorondesign recommended Octopus wiring

[Stadi]

15 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

Ich bin neugierig, Ihr HE0 hat das Erdungskabel angeschlossen, aber ich sehe kein Plus. Wo ist deine Hotend-Heizung angeschlossen? 

Vorondesign empfahl Octopus-Verkabelung

Well recognised, only the GND is connected to both the hotend and the fans. I have the PCB on the SB, there is only one central 24V directly from the power supply.

https://lab4450.com/product/voron-hartk-stealthburner/