My 1st Voron 2.4 R2 350 self source

[Pradit]

# VPN Remote access.

Thanks to a discord user to introduce Zerotier to me.

https://www.zerotier.com/

Now I could access it anywhere. Great.

 

[claudermilk]

Nice. With projects "done" just really means "abandoned" 

Note that I am printing new parts for one of three mods I'm soon adding to my "finished" Trident. 

[mvdveer]

13 hours ago, Pradit said:

Lets call it done!!!

That's what I thought - way back then .......

 

[mvdveer]

13 hours ago, Pradit said:

I think I had more tools than the actual Voron's parts.

you can never have too many tools . Remember the saying - He who dies with the most toys tools wins...

[atrushing]

5 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

you can never have too many tools . Remember the saying - He who dies with the most toys tools wins...

But I think for most of us:

Toys = Tools = Toys that print tools = Tools that print toys

[mvdveer]

On 1/9/2023 at 3:48 PM, Pradit said:

These skirt took 6 hrs+. They came out good for me. I wonder what is

average printing time for anyone?

Would say it is if you are not in a speed race. To me quality is more important than speed. This 300x300 plate took 6hours - standard Voron Settings at 100mm/s.

[Pradit]

3 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Would say it is if you are not in a speed race. To me quality is more important than speed. This 300x300 plate took 6hours - standard Voron Settings at 100mm/s.

Ok now i know how general speed and time use for print.

Thanks.

[Pradit]

I've been avoiding to use this auto retract keyring.

But I could find the other way to handle this. I found this so mount it.

[Pradit]

Here goes next upgrade and new spool from China. Black, Orange, Blue, Pink PLA.

 

Small fan big fan thermistor pocco connector.

 

[Pradit]

Despite a bad quality new PLA I got.

I had opportunity to learn from all the mistake and people helping me.

I leaned that I need to heat soak the bed for almost an hour before run QGL.

Each brand PLA temp different and have different behavior. Yet I doubt with the same 

brand differ spool or color act different too?

 

Now with this PLA (Black) I had many print failed unlike previous Orange PLA +

Same brand but order from different shop.

 

This PLA create a lot of ooze or strings.

 

I had to increased bed temp to 70c to be able to stick the 1st layer.

These all 55-60c bed temp and all non-stick.

 

 

 

I could never success the temp tower. But I currently use 190c-210c.

 

Without proper heat soak or QGL while heating or some screw loose or belt not tighten.

It lead to this problem klicky not click.

 

Edited January 25, 2023 by Pradit

[Pradit]

I'm trying to get all my checklist done.

There are still some more mods I have to print.

# Mod

The Roller help me roll the printer to get to work on the electronic part easily.

Filament filter

270 door latch

The_filter (nevermore contender).

[Pradit]

# Mod

LED... It makes you print faster!!!

LED mount.

Continuity check.

I'm getting a little bit better in soldering.

It is quite confusing about RGB, WGRB, GRB, GRBW, LGBT.... 

How would we know what we are???

 

 

Finally with a good guide here: https://www.teamfdm.com/forums/topic/1014-a-good-tutorial-for-installing-chamber-lights/

Let there be light!!!

[atrushing]

17 minutes ago, Pradit said:

I leaned that I need to heat soak the bed for almost an hour before run QGL.

This makes me glad I went with the Trident.

[Pradit]

# Mod

 

More removable latch. I realize I need 5.5mm not the 6mm one.

Yet another canbus cable mount. I was in a journey finding holly grail.

Silica gel container.

This 2 hours+ print.

 

This 1.20 hr print.

 

What could cause this? I'm using arc_welder plugin too.

 

I found the manual pump that came with the bag much faster.

[Pradit]

8 minutes ago, atrushing said:

This makes me glad I went with the Trident.

Oh, that rule doesn't apply the same with Trident?
I thought heat make metal expand and heat soak make it expand to the level we could sustain the QGL.

Doesn't Trident have heated bed?

Does Trident have sort of auto leveling like QGL?

I'm thinking to build a sidekick printer for my V2.

Still decide which one to go. Trident, V0, SW, Ratrig...

[Pradit]

Like my woodworking, most of the time I'm building Jigs and tools.

Here goes 3d printing...

Mac support

Paint pyramid.

 

Screw meter

 

Wood marking guage.

 

Gridfinity bin

[Pradit]

I noticed my RPI temp go over 56 to 60c.

It's time to put fan on it. But I have no heat sink at this time.

Decided to print this mod for my RPI3B+.

But it was too wide ment to be fore RPI4 I guess.

I just Ziptie it at the end. Now 45-48c.

https://www.printables.com/en/model/34980-moab-mother-of-all-fan-brackets

 

Im still find the sweet spot for my slicer quality with speed. Just try the vast mode for this bin.

 

Yet another EBB mount my holly grail. The 1st one the hole not right for CW2.

The 2nd one just not fit my MP12 aviation connector I had to hot glue it.

This one I can screw it and see how it go.

 

With the cover there are something to be warn.

Since I'm using sensorless homing.

This could have effect on the Y when hit the back and hit the umbilical.

And again when home Z it could hit the bed...

The screw on this cover when tighten it effect the front screw.

It could loosen the hatch that unable to snap properly with the filament.

https://github.com/jimmyvegas29/Voron-Mods/tree/main/EBB36-Cover_Umbilical-QD-Bracket

[atrushing]

4 minutes ago, Pradit said:

Oh, that rule doesn't apply the same with Trident?
I thought heat make metal expand and heat soak make it expand to the level we could sustain the QGL.

Doesn't Trident have heated bed?

Does Trident have sort of auto leveling like QGL?

The Trident uses Z_Tilt which probes the three leadscrew locations and adjusts for flatness.

When my bed gets to 100C the chamber will normally be just over 30C. My PRINT_START macro will do the Z_Tilt, then heat the bed, then do the mesh level while starting to heat the nozzle. Then it re-homes the Z axis when the filament ooze is nice and soft, does a prime line and starts printing. From a cold printer, I can usually stat printing in around 15 minutes. This is only a 250mm machine though.

My heated bed is only 24V from my old Prusa so it is a little slow and maybe it doesn't 'taco' as much as an aluminum plate bed.

18 minutes ago, Pradit said:

I'm thinking to build a sidekick printer for my V2.

Still decide which one to go. Trident, V0, SW, Ratrig...

I think they are all good choices. I am very happy with my V0, my Trident and my RatRig V-Minion. The V-Minion is a nice in-between size and simple build but it isn't enclosed. Also there are so many different mods that can make a big difference.

[atrushing]

2 minutes ago, Pradit said:

I like the purple LED glow on the bed!

[Pradit]

OK Back to the lesson learn from the bad PLA and my noob knowledge in 3d printing.

# Clogging

This was the 1st clog for my printer since build. It's just DEFCON 3.

I poke till it out of my Rapido.

Still some stuck at the top I had to pull it out.

 

I didn't learn then. 

It lead me to the DEFCON 1.

The mother of all clog!!! MTF!!!

I did everything to get it out like before but It still stuck.

I pull it too hard the the filament broke.

I did everything with needle, bike cable, cloth hanger rod.

Till I decided to take apart everything.

These are all my brute force...

It stuck in between the heat tube and heat break area.

I guess coz I retract too much when print end. 

As I asked in other thread it only happen when print end.

But this time I wanna change spool with new color.

Then I thought I resolve this issue.

Put everything back and NO!! still clog.

It was too late at midnight so I signoff.

 

Next morning I took apart again and now I just blow torch inside and use

Bike cable and got it out.

NO still can't put the filament through it. It seem the cable was too small.

So another blow torch and use cloth hanger rod. Yeah MTF out.!!!

 

E-step test.

 

I think I have to learn a new macro for Unload and Load.

If anyone have good one to share with direct drive would be great.

Thanks.

 

 

[Pradit]

I'm planing for the smoke alarm and some sort of fire distinguisher.

Anyone have good mods for Voron2 to suggest? 

[Pradit]

I think it's time due to submit serial request.

 

Edited January 25, 2023 by Pradit

[claudermilk]

45 minutes ago, atrushing said:

The Trident uses Z_Tilt which probes the three leadscrew locations and adjusts for flatness.

When my bed gets to 100C the chamber will normally be just over 30C. My PRINT_START macro will do the Z_Tilt, then heat the bed, then do the mesh level while starting to heat the nozzle. Then it re-homes the Z axis when the filament ooze is nice and soft, does a prime line and starts printing. From a cold printer, I can usually stat printing in around 15 minutes. This is only a 250mm machine though.

My heated bed is only 24V from my old Prusa so it is a little slow and maybe it doesn't 'taco' as much as an aluminum plate bed.

I think they are all good choices. I am very happy with my V0, my Trident and my RatRig V-Minion. The V-Minion is a nice in-between size and simple build but it isn't enclosed. Also there are so many different mods that can make a big difference.

I still have to heat-soak my Trident. For PLA I'll just soak for 5-10 minutes to get the bed settled. For ABS or Nylon, I'll soak until the chamber temp is about 30C--that takes about 20-30 minutes. I have that delay built in to my print_start so I can't forget. Then I heat up the nozzle to a calibration heat (I stole Priusa's 170C value, I'll need to drop that to 150C for Tap). FInally I z-tilt_adjust, run adaptive bed mesh, get to final working temp, and print. I might need to add a nozzle scrub before all the z calibration.

So cereal time? Yay! Congrats on reaching that point!

[smirk]

I'll second that! Well done getting to the serial stage!

[sleepster217]

I am interested in this build not sure if it was mentioned and go easy I am new what hotend are u using