My 1st Voron 2.4 R2 350 self source

[claudermilk]

22 hours ago, Pradit said:

As i said most of my initial research on October 2022 octoprint all over the place.

i wish i did more research to discover mainsail which seem to be lightweight. 
coz as of now my octoprint just a bare-bones without any plugin for me to be able to run faster. I deactivated all plugins.

It should be easy enough to set up Mainsail and/or Fluidd with KIAUH. I've found that nearly all the plugins I have set up in my Mini's Octoprint instance are part of Mainsail/Fluidd. The only one I have is arc-welder and that's not something that's compatible with Klipper anyway (and I really don't miss it).

[Pradit]

# PID Tuning

Following the step for PID Tuning quite easy.

It's only when you following the manual blindly that's gonna cost you.

My Hotend heater temp can raise very fast. The PID process took place and done easy.

But when came to my Bed heater temp didn't buzz at all.

 

I was afraid the heater I got was wrong voltage or damage and so on..

I check all the wire and continuity again and again.

Asking every discord server as I could..

One of the discord user pointed out something from my picture.

I did swap the polarity on SSR. 

I didn't check on my SSR + and - was wrote on it and it was different from the manual.

So I had it fixed.

 

 

Edited January 9, 2023 by Pradit

[Pradit]

# Z endstop calibration

1st I think I still couldn't have my head around the bed location and the printable area yet.

My bed size is 355x355. When it move to 0,0 it has quite some gap over 8 mm.

But I just moved on and thought will come back for this later.

Then it came to my physical z_endstop with sexbolt.

It is trouble some when adjusting the hight pass the bed hight just a few mm.

and the closest to the be i can mount still not at Y350 to make it center of the sexbolt.

It's now only at the outer rim of the sexbolt. It is still press the trigger but I can't put my eyes away when it home.

Then testing probe_accuracy.

Some timeout error it can't finish 10 times.

I had to change something in klippy.py

Changed TRSYNC_TIMEOUT value in “/home/pi/klipper/klippy/mcu.py” file from 0.025 to 0.050, i.e. was “TRSYNC_TIMEOUT = 0.025”, and became “TRSYNC_TIMEOUT = 0.050”, and the error “Communication timeout during homing probe” disappeared, and BL-Touch now works as it should. Only here there is one “BUT”…

https://klipper.discourse.group/t/communication-timeout-during-homing-probe/3559

 

Probe_calibrate, z_endstop_calibrate

I still don't know what probe_calibrate and z_endstop_calibrate different from another?

Do I have to do both?

 

I just did z_endstop_calibrate.

Just testz z=-(number to move your toolhead down close to the bed)

Perform this with A4 paper.

Until it got close to the paper use -.1 to move little bit at a time.

Till it start to fit the paper then testz z=+ to move up halfway of the previous position.

Once you got the drag friction of the paper then you can accept and save_config.

For me it didn't auto update the value of endstop_position to the printer.cfg file.

I have to manually update it.

I learned this by experience. I thought it auto update the cfg for me.

And the tool head just crash and drag my bed.

And if you can see the other mistake I made.

I did't put my magnet and PEI sheet first before doing all above.

Yes that lead to another crash and drag.

Coz those sheet gave me more mm hight.

Apply magnet sheet now.

 

I wish there will be more color PEI sheet in the future.

 

Mount plastic filament.

Honestly I wonder is there any specific way to put the PTFE tube into the SB?

Just force it in that's it?

All these I had LED issue which I don't know why it behave randomly.

Logo LED was on most of the time.

But only part LED sometime green sometime off and then white.

And off again.

 

So with some answer I finally took apart and resoldering them.

Most of my mistake are from loose crimping, or soldering.

 

 

 

Edited January 9, 2023 by Pradit

[Buurman]

3 minutes ago, Pradit said:

It's now only at the outer rim of the sexbolt. I

If you mean, it cant move further backwards, move the bed more forward, thats the only way. 

Like 5 to 10mm, if you want to use purge bin or scrub, you need to be able to move this far behind the bed.

[Buurman]

14 minutes ago, Pradit said:

It is trouble some when adjusting the hight pass the bed hight just a few mm

what do you mean by this? photo may help? 
If you are talking about the height difference between bed and sexbold, it doenst really matter too much.

[Buurman]

17 minutes ago, Pradit said:

My bed size is 355x355. When it move to 0,0 it has quite some gap over 8 mm.

where is the nozzle at position 355?

You can still correct things with the offset setting, so if it needs to be more to the left as a total, you can play around with offset, but you will lose that on the other side, so, thats why I ask, whats it on 355?

[Pradit]

20 minutes ago, Buurman said:

If you mean, it cant move further backwards, move the bed more forward, thats the only way. 

Like 5 to 10mm, if you want to use purge bin or scrub, you need to be able to move this far behind the bed.

Here is the image.

Edited December 19, 2022 by Pradit

[Pradit]

15 minutes ago, Buurman said:

what do you mean by this? photo may help? 
If you are talking about the height difference between bed and sexbold, it doenst really matter too much.

Hahah, I'm just complaining coz I have to unscrew 4 of them and turn the bolt and screw them again. 

Mount it and see ah too deep and all over again and again.

I wish sexbolt version 2 u could just the the top bolt with your hand to raise or lower the bolt.

Just use heatset insert instead of nut.

[Pradit]

14 minutes ago, Buurman said:

where is the nozzle at position 355?

You can still correct things with the offset setting, so if it needs to be more to the left as a total, you can play around with offset, but you will lose that on the other side, so, thats why I ask, whats it on 355?

x350 y350 nozzle at the edge of the X (right) and beyond Y (back) about 6mm.
x0 y0 nozzle X (left) over the bed about 5mm, Y (front) over the be about 6mm. 

[Pradit]

# My 1st Print

So with all the hard work and all the fixing and initial check.

With machine still Frankenstein but it's alive.

I started to print The Cube!!!

Without belt tensioning, or anything. Pure fresh from assembly.

I could finish the print and result OK for me.

It can fit the bearing.

I'm happy :).... for now..

 

Edited January 25, 2023 by Pradit

[Buurman]

23 minutes ago, Pradit said:

Here is the image.

yeah, move the bed forward a bit (if this is the physical limit of the Duct) 

Dont forget, dont tighten all 4 screws of the bed  just one strongly, other loosely.

[Pradit]

# 1st Failed Print

My failed print because I had unfinished QGL from my g32 command.

It's randomly happen to me that QGL unable to finish. ie: buffer something too long,

or Z number increase.

Then I thought it's ok coz I had QGL many times before this.

Here we go...

 

 

 

Edited February 1, 2023 by Pradit

[Pradit]

7 minutes ago, Buurman said:

yeah, move the bed forward a bit (if this is the physical limit of the Duct) 

Dont forget, dont tighten all 4 screws of the bed  just one strongly, other loosely.

Ok. so sacrifices a bit of print volume at the back right? 

Then 0,0 will have 8 mm Y that nozzle on the bed.

[Pradit]

# Print More, More, More...

Yes I now didn't skip any step. g32 with all QGL.

I have to hurry print the EBB36 mount and umbilical mount before my wire snap again.

The design I've got from https://grabcad.com/library/enhanced-stealthburner-1

I had to remove many object from the file before I had what I wanna print.

 

Compare to the failed print.

 

I thought was to print till it drop while it still can. My canbus and the umbilical

wire with bad angle and bad crimp. It could snap or stop anytime. Unstable 

communication issue.

So I'll have to hurry print every necessary parts as many as I could.

Yes I'm using PLA. I hope it could hold long enough. (Later on I decided to printed the spare just in case.)

Here is the relocation for my rear chain.

 

The LED I got the config with the klicky probe. Logo LED magenta.

As I mentioned from the early post my issue with part LED off.

 

Now for PTFE tube guide.

 

The umbilical cord still flimsy. Open for suggestion.

 

 

 

Edited December 19, 2022 by Pradit

[Pradit]

Officially I could call it's real belt relocation since I've been using temp hack for a while.

But you can see the rear umbilical strain relief there later it gave me headache too. 

 

This mount I think it wasn't design for EBB36. It's not perfect fit.

Yes it snap so I couldn't print anything anymore.

So time to assemble the official mount.

As I said it wasn't design for what I had.

I need to hack it.

Almost good till I had mistake with the molex microfit. It is very very difficult to find in my local.

I ran out of pin for it due to many error crimping and testing.

So another wait for my parts.

 

 

[Pradit]

# Canboard mount and Umbilical mount

1st try for this mod to mount my EBB36 and umbilical with aviation connector.

It's not perfect I can tell but I hope it could hold for awhile till I find the right one.

And till I could print ABS or ASA.

It seem nice and the LED all working now.

.... until.... 

It home XYZ then big crash...

The probe pin drag from the rear umbilical strain relief and bend it and off.

So all klicker activities failed and skip step and crash Z so hard..

 

I had to remove the rear umbilical strain relief loose for now. Till I found solution. (Open for suggestion.)

Then I can home without hitting anything.

The canboard mount raise a few mm, dupont connector also too long.

I might have to look for shorter stand off too.

 

 

 

Edited January 25, 2023 by Pradit

[Pradit]

No space between probe pin, dupont connector and strain relief.

[Pradit]

While I couldn't find any solution for dupont replacement.

I decided to cut it and soldered the wire and try to bend 90 degree for the probe pin.

Nope still not enough space.

So I go for the next to be issue in the future. I extended the thermistor wire that I changed the connector

earlier in the build.

 

When put back the SB make sure the 2 bolt at the bottom screw into the back tight and right.

My case they didn't and it make the nozzle miss location and unable to home Z to endstop properly.

Yeah another crash!! SAD

 

Use this opportunity to belt tensioning. I just didn't know what I"m doing just trail and error for tension.

 

Oh I found this happen with my nozzle over night. What could cause this?

I couldn't remove the nozzle until now.

Use all the wrench I had. How to do turn and remove nozzle?

[eugen360]

1 hour ago, Pradit said:

Oh I found this happen with my nozzle over night. What could cause this?

It is molten plastic, right? I guess you did not tightened the nozzle before your first test prints... Usually all the manufacturers recommend a hot-tightening of the nozzle before first use. Even if you are not doing so (maintain ~180 deg. for 5 min. and tighten after) you must ensure there is a pretty tight fit between nozzle and heater block...

Else.. plastic is flowing out where it shouldn't.

[Pradit]

3 minutes ago, eugen360 said:

It is molten plastic, right? I guess you did not tightened the nozzle before your first test prints... Usually all the manufacturers recommend a hot-tightening of the nozzle before first use. Even if you are not doing so (maintain ~180 deg. for 5 min. and tighten after) you must ensure there is a pretty tight fit between nozzle and heater block...

Else.. plastic is flowing out where it shouldn't.

Now i cant even remove the nozzle.

What to do now?

[eugen360]

9 minutes ago, Pradit said:

What to do now?

It is PLA? Heat up the nozzle to 200 or even 220 deg. and try to unscrew it this way.

Of course use some pliers or a wrench to hold the block and another wrench for the nozzle.

[Pradit]

4 hours ago, Pradit said:

# My 1st Print

So with all the hard work and all the fixing and initial check.

With machine still Frankenstein but it's alive.

I started to print The Cube!!!

Without belt tensioning, or anything. Pure fresh from assembly.

I could finish the print and result OK for me.

It can fit the bearing.

I'm happy :).... for now..

One thing I couldn't figure it out about temp chart here.

I added 2 temp in my config hoping to show in this chart. The octopus mcu temp and raspberry pi temp.

But it only show bed and extruder as u can see.

#####################################################################
#   Thermals
#####################################################################
[temperature_sensor Raspberrypi]

##Pi Temps
sensor_type: temperature_host
#sensor_path: /sys/class/thermal/thermal_zone0/temp
#min_temp: 0
#max_temp: 100

[temperature_sensor MCU]
##Octopus Temps
sensor_type: temperature_mcu
sensor_mcu: mcu
#min_temp: 0
#max_temp: 100

[temperature_sensor CANBOARD]
sensor_type: temperature_mcu
sensor_mcu: can0

#####################################################################

Anyone use octoprint pls help guide me.

Thanks.

Edited December 19, 2022 by Pradit

[smirk]

5 hours ago, Pradit said:

For me it didn't auto update the value of endstop_position to the printer.cfg file.

The Ellis tuning guide on first layer squish has some interesting pointers about setting the z-offset (more accurately). From his point of view the paper method is only for "roughly" setting the z-offset and it takes active printing (of test pieces) to get a more accurate definition. In the instructions he is using the command "Z_OFFSET_APPLY_ENDSTOP" or "Z_OFFSET_APPLY_PROBE" (depends if you are using a microswitch or probe for your endstop) to apply the z-offset before doing a SAVE_CONFIG to store it permanently.

[Pradit]

7 minutes ago, smirk said:

The Ellis tuning guide on first layer squish has some interesting pointers about setting the z-offset (more accurately). From his point of view the paper method is only for "roughly" setting the z-offset and it takes active printing (of test pieces) to get a more accurate definition. In the instructions he is using the command "Z_OFFSET_APPLY_ENDSTOP" or "Z_OFFSET_APPLY_PROBE" (depends if you are using a microswitch or probe for your endstop) to apply the z-offset before doing a SAVE_CONFIG to store it permanently.

I ll try it again. I once did that it seem to return something like its still 0 so no update.

I ll check again tomorrow.

Thanks.

[Pradit]

Raspberry Pi under voltage warning that keep happening. 

I don't know it could be any issue or not. But I kept it that way for awhile.

I thought it's time to look at it now.

I have a 5V PSU and Waho connector.

I suspect is the wire for USB cable too small?