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My 1st Voron 2.4 R2 350 self source


Pradit
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Finally I have the parts which I self source ready.

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This web help you make your mind for the color.

# Plan for my build:
1. 350 x 350 build
2. Octopus Pro 446 + TMC2209
3. Raspberry Pi 3B +
4. EBB36 Canbus
5. PITFT5
6. PI cam
7. Smoke detection alarm
8. Rapido
9. Octoprint
10. Klipper
11. Octodash
12. Klicky
13. Filament runout Unklicky
14. PurgeBucket & Nozzle brush
15. Sensorless Homing
16. Sexbolt
17. Nevermore filter and more filter
18. Some sort of removable panel and door with magnets.
19. Rolling Voron
20. Boot from SSD drive
21. LED LED LED and LED
22. Umbilical cord
23. Relocation chain
24. More on fire hazard prevent and protection
25. Remote monitor

Since I source every part by myself so it's a waiting game.
Then I started to order PIF from @Stephan (discord username).
He kindly helps me find a way to deliver to me with a cheaper fee from Germany. Thanks for that.

# PIF
 

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Here are the bags of the main printer part for Voron 2.4 R2 Rapido.

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All the parts from the bag.


Accent color is orange.
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1st bag base color.

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2nd bag base color.

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3rd bag base color.
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Below here you can look at the print quality from PIF.

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That's a useful link for the colour configurator - thanks!

Those PIF parts do look glorious, a high bench-mark to aim for 😃

I'll look forward to see how your build progresses - your patience will be repaid.

  • Voron FTW! 1
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While I'm waiting for all parts and PIF part arrives. I'm starting to mess around with octopi.

# Software
 
  1. Voron document for installing software is quite good. Installing Octoprint doc You just follow the instruction there.
  2. There are so many octoprint plugins to choose from. I'll update later which is a must have once I have my printer running.
  3. Since I decided to boot my Octopi from SSD here is what I found.
    1. If RPI is under 4 then it can't use SSD NVMe. Mine is 3B+.
    2. Only SATA SSD with good USB cable. RPI really needs proper good power otherwise it will have a power shortage and unable to boot.
    3. Here is the link to follow how to step. 3B+ boot from USB

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Assume that you have flashed your SSD with OCTOPI already then plug in the USB and reboot after this.

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34 minutes ago, Pradit said:

This web help you make your mind for the color.

Good site- thanks for sharing. The printed parts has just highlighted that I still have a way to go to get my print quality improved. Sure you will enjoy the build. Looking forward to following your progress.

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# Raspberry PI CAM

Since I'm still waiting for some parts to build the frame and clean the rail. I again do something else while waiting.
I go for setting up the PI CAM.

1. Connect the cable correctly. I use a longer cam cable and have to carefully connect. Always put the shiny side opposite to the USB on our pi.
2. Lift the plastic up before inserting the ribbon cable.
3. The pi cam also has the shiny side face the same as the camera.
Reference howto connect PI cam.

4. ssh into your pi and type
sudo raspi-config

 

Select interface and enable pi cam.
5. Reboot and type
vcgencmd get_camera

 

It should detected 1.
Reference howto setup pi cam config


image.thumb.jpeg.491ed1a66aca53089ef5f5a37690a5a3.jpeg

 
 

 

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# BTT PITFT50
Then I continue with the raspberry pi screen setup with BTT PITFT50 and install Octodash.
1. Be careful with the ribbon connector the latch with the BTT is different from the pi. I force too much and it broke.
2. I follow the step here Howto install Octodash. Just run this command

bash <(wget -qO- https://github.com/UnchartedBull/OctoDash/raw/main/scripts/install.sh)

 

3. Follow the wizard and now I have Octodash ready.


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# Stealth Burner

What I have found after assembly stealth burner and clockwork 2.
1. The set of screws I ordered is based on Afterburner so be aware.
2. The bmg extruder set that I ordered which I had to take apart. They are not quite like
the manual display. The gear doesn't turn very smoothly after putting them all together.
 

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Here when I lock the latch then the gear turns not smooth. I don't know if is it supposed to be like that.

Just not sure if the bearing is too close or not in the position or not.

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Is this what it suppose to happen?
Have I done anything wrong?

 



My fan hasn't arrived but I try to put together and see anyway.
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The screw for the hatch covers the wire in the manual says M3x6 BHCS. It seems too short for my printed part.
I have to use a longer M3.
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I tried to fit the CANBUS EBB36 with longer screws through the motor. It's work.

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Edited by Pradit
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Since I'm still waiting for some parts for my frame to arrive. It seems China has another pandemic shutdown again.
I have to move on to the wiring.

# Wiring

I have to say crimping is not my favorite thing to do next to soldering.

16 AWG silicone wire from outlet to 24 V PSU and 5 V PSU.

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I prepare the bed wiring to have the thermal fuse removable too.
16 AWG wire with connector to SSR and 24 V PSU.

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I Google and found this AWG reference online. I think it's good for everyone.

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Finally the parts that keep me waiting have arrived.

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I hope this will help the frame keep square and true long enough.
It should be all set to start the frame.

# Frame

I don't know how hard would this be to square until I actually assemble it.
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Flat glass is a must.

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The lesson learned here is don't tighten them all yet.

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Finally as good as it gets to be a square cube.

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I don't have coroplast here in my local then I use polycarbonate roofs instead.

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Try to align the nuts and holes.

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Obviously I have the wrong direction of the rail to the panel.

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The din rail needs to be cut 2 pieces with the same hole alignment next time.

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